US2739550A - Button sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

March 27, 1956 PATTERSON ET AL 2,739,550

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE Filed March 26, 1951 9 Sheets-Sheet l FIG.1

FIG.33' 97 INVENTOR MOREHEAD PATTERSON #AMES J. MC GINLEY TOR zEY BUTTON SEWING MACHINE 9 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 26, 1951 NQI GM C M4m NmdE March 27, 1956 PATTERSON ET AL 2,739,550

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE 9 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed March 26, 1951 ATTORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSQN ETAL 2,739,550

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE Filed March 26, 1951 9 Sheets-Sheet 4 FIG.3A A

MOREH ERSON JAMES J. C GINLEY QWM ATTORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON ETAL 2,739,550

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE Filed March 26. 1951 9 Sheets-Sheet 5 4 ATTORNEY S wmw mw m .H WADn u mxw mm March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON ET AL 2,739,550

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE Filed March 26, 1951 9 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVENTOR MOREHEAD PATTERSON AMES J. MC GINLEY M ga ATTORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON ET AL BUTTON SEWING MACHINE 9 Sheets-Sheet '7 Filed March 26, 1951 @unmmummmm ATTORNEY March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON ET A1.

BUTTON SEWING MACHINE I 9 Sheets-Sheet 8 Filed March 26, 1951 R I Y mm W NP R w o o NA W .IES A March 27, 1956 M. PATTERSON ET AL BUTTON SEWING MACHINE 9 Sheets-Sheet 9 Filed March 26, 1951 INV MOREHEAD fiw msou JAMES J. MC GINLEY ATTORNEY BUTTON SEWING MACHINE Morehead Patterson, New York, and James J. McGinley, Williston Park, N. Y., assignors to American Machine & Foundry Company, a corporation of New Jersey Application March 26, 1951, Serial No. 217,645

45 Claims. (Cl. 112-110) This invention relates to sewing machines, and more particularly to improvements in sewing machines which sew buttons and like fastening devices to materials, such as mens and womens coats and the like. The machine constituting this invention is adapted to attach buttons to the work in such manner that there is provided a thread shank or post by means of which each button is supported thereby away from the work.

According to the present invention, buttons are sewed to the desired material with a relatively short thread passing through the eye of a needle which is projected back and forth by opposed needle bars through the material and selected button holes in such a manner that the thread travels in closed continuous paths. In this manner one or more or any desired number of complete loops of thread are made to bind the button to the work. Mechanism is also provided for winding several loops of thread about the post attaching the button to the work, and means are provided for locking the windings against unwinding in order to securely attach each button to the work.

The invention constitutes improvements to button sewing machines of the type disclosed in Johnson et al. Patent 2,451,495, and especially to improvements which make it possible to attach each button to the work in such a manner that no thread, or a minimum of thread, such for example a single stitch, appears on the under surface of the work or the material to which the button is secured. The invention therefore makes it possible to attach buttons to the work in a manner closely simulating hand sewing.

The present invention solves the problem of blind stitching or sewing a button to the material to which it is attached. If desired, all of the thread passing through the material may be obscured from view, although it may be preferred to have a portion of at least one loop of the attaching thread visible on the under side of the work. The desirable results of the invention are accomplished by folding the work, such as an article of clothing, and locating the folded edge in the path of travel of the needle which is passed back and forth through a button and the folded edge of the work. The plane of the button is located substantially at right angles to the path of travel of the needle, and the button and folded edge of the work are moved alternately, laterally and longitudinally at proper times during the sewing operations in order that the thread may be passed back and forth through selected holes in the button.

At the conclusion of the formation of a plurality of loops attaching the button to the work, the button is swung through 90, such that the plane of the button lies in a plane parallel to the path of travel of the needle and the work is substantially at right angles relative to the path of the needle so as to locate or position the loops of thread connecting the button to the work in the path of travel of the needle. The button and work are then moved back and forth out of the needle path so that on one stroke, the needle passes on one side of the loops States Patent and on its next stroke, it passes on the other side of the loops. This winds or wraps the loops connecting the button to the work and forms what is known in the trade as a post or shank. After a suitable number of post forming wraps of thread has been made, the thread is anchored against unwrapping. This can be accomplished by moving the needle through the loops and windings forming the shank or through the work at any suitable point Where the thread secures the button to the work, the former being preferred. The locking of the thread against unlocking completes the sewing operation.

It is an object of the invention to provide an improved sewing machine for attaching buttons and similar fastening devices to materials or work, such as articles of clothing and wearing apparel, and especially to wearing apparel in which it is desired to have such fastening devices secured thereto with a shank or post supporting the button or fastening device away from the surface of the garment to Which it is attached.

It is a further object of the invention to provide a button sewing machine having means which insure against the breakage of needles, as the latter are moved back and forth through the material to which buttons are sewed.

It is the further object of the invention to provide improved rneans for supporting a button in different planes relative to the work to which it is being sewed in order that the button can be sewed and the post or shank which attaches it to the work can be wound or wrapped, the thread attaching the button secured against loosening, and wherein no thread, or a predetermined amount of thread appears on the surface of the work, thereby making it possible to sew buttons mechanically in a manner closely simulating the best type of hand sewing.

The invention also consists in the provision of mechanism for feeding buttons automatically from a source of supply, supporting them relative to the work at different positions during the attachment of each button to the work, and moving the work with respect to the needle as the latter moves back and forth through the work, and exteriorly thereof during the sewing operations.

The invention also includes the provisions of a novel work supporting table which is movable in a generally four-motion path of travel during the sewing and post winding operations, and also to a novel work supporting gauge plate mounted on the table and adapted to hold the folded ege of the work during the entire sequence of operations involved in attaching a button to the work.

It is an added object of the invention to provide improved mechanism for sewing buttons to desired materials including a moveable work and button supporting table having novel means of supporting the button and work relative to the needle which moves alternately through the work and selected button holes, and through selected button holes exteriorly of the work, and improved thread handling devices for properly manipulating the thread during the sewing and post-wrapping and locking operations.

A further object of the invention is the provision of a button sewing machine having means for feeding buttons from a source of supply to a button chuck which supports each button in a plurality of positions relative to the work during the sequential operations of attaching each button to the work in a manner closely simulating the best type of hand sewing.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in view, the invention consists in certain combinations and constructions which will be hereinafter fully described, and then specifically set forth in the claims hereunto appended.

In the accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification, and in which like characters of reference indicate the same or like elements:

Fig. 1 is a side elevation ofthe button sewing machine with parts broken away to illustrate the general driving mechanism of the machine;

Fig. 1A is partial isometric View of the locking arrangement on the clutch control lever;

Fig. 2 is. a side elevation of the machine on a slightly larger scale showing the upper needle bar control mechanism, the cam operated material supporting table and the button manipulating mechanism;

Figs. 3 and 3A when joined on line AA illustrate a plan view of the synchronized driving means of the button manipulating and. work handling mechanism of the ma chine;

Fig. 4 is an isometric view illustrating the button aligning, button gripping and button turning mechanisms;

Fig. 5. is a side elevation, partly insection of the button aligning head;

Fig. 6 is an isometric view of the upper looper actuating mechanism and the thread tensioning device connected therewith;

Fig. 7 is a plan view of a suitable cam for imparting the desired motion to the material supporting table;

Fig. 8 is. a plan view of a. suitable cam for providing Ihgl desired motion to the material or work supporting ta e.

b1;ig. 9 is a plan view of the material or work supporting ta e.

Fig. 10 is an end elevation of the same as seen from line 1010 of Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a side elevation of the button gripping chuck;

Fig. 12 is an end elevation of the same as seen from line 1212 of Fig. 11;

Fig. 13 is a rear viewof the delivery end of the button chute;

Fig. 14 is an end elevation of the same as seen from line 14--14 of Fig. 13;

Figs. 15 to 21 and Fig. 23 are side views illustrating the successive steps of sewing a button to the material;

Fig. 22 is a plan view illustrating schematically a preferred form of stitching path during button sewing operation;

Fig. 24 is a detailed sectional side view illustrating the first step in post winding operation;

Fig. 25 is a plan view' of Fig. 24';

Figs. 26 and 27 are end: views illustrating two of the consecutive steps in, the post winding operation;

Fig. 28 is a plan view illustrating the material and the attached buttonafter completion of the. button sewing and post winding operation;

Fig. 29 is a schematic side: view illustrating a modified form of button sewing in which the first. stitch is completely hidden in the material (blind stitch);

Fig. 30 is a view showing a modified method of post winding in. a figure eight thread. movement;

Figs. 31 and 32 show cams suitable for use in sewing and making the modified. post windingshown in Fig. 30; and

Fig. 33 is a view showing a sharp end-blunt end needle which may be used for sewing buttons.

Referring to Figure 1, the button sewing machine which may be of the same general type as that shownin Johnson Patent 2,451,495, consists of a center support frame 30 and a combination end frame and housing 32, the frames being secured to and spaced by supporting. members 34.

An upper needle bar 36 and a lower needle bar 38 arranged in opposed axial alignment are. provided with P actuating members 40 and 4-2, respectively. .Actuat-ing member 42' is connected to an arm 44. (Fig, 1) extending, from the forward end of a lever 46 which at its rearward end is provided with an arm 48' carrying a cam roller. 50 engaging a cam track 52 in cam 54. A rotatabl'ehub 160 referred to more in detail hereinafter provides oscillating motion to lever 46. and arm 44, which in turn imparts vertical reciprocating motion to lower needle bar 38. Lever 46 is loosely mounted on a horizontal shaft 56 (Fig. 1) which is supported at each end by suitable bearing brackets 58 and 60 conveniently attached to the frame of the machine.

Actuating member 40 of upper needle bar 36 is connected to an arm 62v (Fig. 2) of lever 64 loosely mounted on a horizontal. shaft 66. Arm 62- is provided with a lug 68 carrying a horizontal. stud 70 which engages: with the head of an adjustable screw 72 secured to and projecting vertically from the free end of an arm 74 extending from lever 76 also loosely mounted on horizontal shaft 66 supported by bearing bracket 80 (Fig. 1) and bearing lug 82 which projects from a bridge 84 (Figs. 1 and 2). The latter, and bracket 80, are suitably secured to frame 32. Arm 74 of lever 76 also carries a horizontal stud 86 which by means of tension spring 88, is connected tohorizontal stud 70 projecting from log 68 of lever 64, thus providing a permanent, but yield'able connection between levers 64 and 76. At its rear portion lever 76- is provided with an arm 90 (Fig. 1') mounting a cam follower 92 which engages cam track 52 of cam 54. In Fig. 1, since cam 54'- is shown in section, carn follower 9-2 is shown out of engagement with track 52. Cam 52 provides oscillating motionto levers 7'6. and 64, the latter through arm 62v imparting vertical reciprocating motion to. upper needle bar 36 which is operated in synchronism with lower needle bar 38.

Upper needle bar 36 isguided in suitable bushings, which may be similar to those shown in Johnson Patent 2,386,800. These bushings are carried by lug 94 pro jecting from the forward end of bridge 84 (Figs. 1 and 2). Lower needle bar 38 is also guided in suitable bushings in lug 95 constructed and supported in the same genreal manner as disclosed in Johnson Patent 2,386,800, andfurther description thereof is deemed unnecessary. This mechanism employs a double pointed needle 96 having a point at each end. and an eye located between its: points or ends, preferably about midway of its. length, through which the. thread passes.

The machine. also is. equipped with a looper arm 98, the general principle of which is the same as that disclosed in lohnson: Patent 2,3 86,800.. However, since the button sewing action of this machine. is divided intoa button. sewing operation. and apost wndingoperation, it is desirable to have a slower looper section during the sewing operation and a fast. looper action. during. post wrapping operation. To. accomplish. this task, looper arm 98. is mounted. on a horizontal shaft 100 (Figs. 1 and 6). Between its. ends, and preferably in its central portion shaft 10.0 carries a slidable. clutclr member 102. which is provided with. a key 104 (Fig. 6) slidably engaging with a key way 106 in shaft 100. At its ends clutch member 102 (Figs. 1 and 6) is provided with one tooth clutch faces 10S and 110, respectively. The central portion of clutch member 102 is; provided with a groove 112 which engages with a suitably bent rod 114 projecting from lug 116 adjustably secured to an. oscillating; shaft 118 which is actuated with a button manipulating: chuck, as described hereinafter.

During button sewing operations, clutch member 102 is shifted to the left by rod 1,-1 4, causing clutchface 108 of member 102 to engage with. clutch. jaw 120 which is an integral part of arm 122 loosely mounted on looper shaft. 100. Arm 1-22 is. connected; by rod 12.4, to lever 126 pivotally mounted. on a studshaft 128 (Fig. 6) suitably secured in the frame of the machine. Lever 126- is formed. with an arm. 130. which atits free end carries cam roller 132- (Figs. 3- and 6) engaging: with an open earn 134 loosely mountedon shaft 136-. Cam 1 34 provides. the desired oscillating: motion to looper. arm 98 during button sewing. operation when. clutch jaw- 120 of oscillating; arm 122.. is in engagement with: cum. face 108' of clutch member 102 connected to looper shaft 100 by means of key 104. Cam 134 is continuously rotated by means of sprocket 138 (Figs. 1 and 3), which in the embodiment illustrated herein, is integral with the hub of cam 134 loosely turning on shaft 136. Sprocket 138 is driven by chain 140 from sprocket 142 mounted on shaft 144. Secured to shaft 144 is a sprocket 146 which is driven by a chain 148 by sprocket 150 mounted on shaft 136. Shaft 136 carries a gear 152 which meshes with and is driven by gear 154 on shaft 156 (Fig. 3) connected to a suitable gear train (not shown) in housing 32. This gear train is driven by a gear 158 (Fig. 1) which is an integral part of a hub 160 loosely mounted on a horizontal stationary stud shaft 162. The latter is provided with a flange 164 formed integrally therewith. Screws secure flange 164 to the vertical wall of housing 32 (Fig. 1). Needle bar actuating cam 54 also is secured to hub 160. As shown herein cam 54 forms an integral part of a V-belt pulley 168 which is driven by belt 170 from pulley 172 forming an integral part of member 174 of a conical clutch designated generally 173, the action and operation of which will be described hereinafter. Also secured to hub 160 is a looper operating cam 176 constructed and designed to impart to looper arm 98 a different and faster movement during post wrapping operations of the machine. Cam 176 (Figs. 1 and 6) is engaged by cam follower 178 pivoted to the free end of cam lever 180 loosely mounted on looper shaft 100. In the illustrated embodiment lever 180 forms an integral part of clutch jaw 182. The arrangement of parts is such that when clutch member 102 is shifted to the right, the one tooth clutch face 110 of member 102 engages with jaw 182 at which time the action of cam 176 upon cam lever 182, will be transmitted through jaw 182 and clutch member 102 to looper shaft 100 and hence to looper arm 98.

In order to prevent undue side motion of clutch jaws 120 and 182 when being engaged by clutch member 102, each jaw is provided with a slot 103 and 183, respectively (Fig. 6), which engage pins 105 and 185, respectively. These pins are secured to shaft 100 and protrude through 103 and 183, permitting their respective jaws free rocking, but no sideward movements. When clutch member 102 is in engagement with jaw 182, arm 122, oscillated by cam 134, will rock freely on shaft 100 without imparting any motion thereto. On the other hand, when clutch member 102 is in engagement with jaw 120 of arm 122, jaw 182 is disengaged, and arm 180, oscillated through cam 176, will rock freely on shaft 100 Without imparting any motion to it.

Male clutch member 174 which drives the entire machine, and of which pulley 172 forms a part is loosely mounted on horizontal shaft 184 supported in a sleeve bearing of a hub 186 supported by and journalled in suitable ball bearings of a bearing bracket 188 secured to support plate 19% mounted on the main frame of the machine (Fig. 1). Integral with hub 186 is a pulley 192 which by means of a belt 194 is continuously driven from a suitable source of power (not shown), such as a motor. The face of pulley 102 is provided with a clutch drum 196 which, when engaged by male clutch member 174 drives the entire button sewing machine.

Attached to horizontal shaft 184 is a clutch collar 198 which engages with a clutch fork 200 fulcrumed on stud 202 projecting from the frame of the machine. Integral with the hub of clutch fork 290 is an arm 204 connected by a link 206 to one end of bell crank lever 208 pivoted to a stud 210 held by a suitable bracket 212 secured to the frame of the machine. The other end of bell crank lever 208 is pivotally connected to block 214 which slidably engages with the free end of a vertical rod 216. The other end of rod 216 is pivoted to an arm 218 formed on and projecting from control lever 220 pivotally supported to the frame of the machine. Rod 216 and block 214 are also resiliently connected through a compression spring 224 surrounding a portion of the free end of said rod and confined between a collar 226, secured to said rod, and the top surface of block 214. This construction provides a resilient means of throwing in clutch 173.

The upper end of control lever 220 is provided with an extension 228 which on its upper free end carries a horizontal pin 230 freely engaging with the rim or side edge of a shoulder 232 of sleeve member 234 slidably supported on the free end of horizontal shaft 162. One end of sleeve member 234 is provided with a flange 236 having secured thereto a one tooth male lock jaw 238 provided for the purpose of engaging with a complementary one tooth female lock disc 240 at the end of a cycle of the machine, so that the latter machine operations are always stopped at the end and started at the beginning of a cycle.

Lock disc 240 is secured to pulley 168 and hub which, mentioned heretofore, is loosely mounted on horizontal shaft 162. A collar 242 attached to shaft 162 prevents any axial movement of hub 160 on shaft 162. When the machine is not in operation, lock jaw 238 is held in engagement with lock disc 240 by compression spring 244. This spring encircles the free end of shaft 162 and is confined between stationary plate 246 and hub 248 of sleeve member 234. Since upright plate 246 is rigidly mounted on the frame of the machine, spring 244 exerts its pressure against hub 248 and tends to maintain lock jaw 238 in engagement with lock disc 240 on pulley 168. Control arm 220 at its lower free end carries a pivotally mounted block 250 which slidingly engages with the forked end of arm 252 attached to shaft 254 supported in a suitable bearing of bracket 212. Also secured to shaft 254 is a lever 256 which at its free end is connected by link 2511 to armature 260 of solenoid 262 mounted on support bracket 264 attached to bracket 212. As shown, control arm 220 carries an outwardly projecting stud or pin 266. When the machine is stopped pin 266 butts against a vertical pin 268 (Fig. 1A) extending outwardly from a hub 270 loosely mounted on stud shaft 272 held by a lug of bracket 274 (Fig. 1) attached to the frame of the machine. The free end of arm 276 formed on hub 270 is provided with a slot in which engages a pin 278 carried by armature 250 of a solenoid 282 supported by bracket 284 secured to the frame of the machine. A tension spring 286 attached to arm 276 and anchored to the frame of the machine acts to urge pin 268 into contact with pin 266 of control arm 220. The operation of the clutch and driving control, as well as the cycle control just described, is as follows:

When the operator is ready to start the machine, he trips the suitably bent starting lever 288 (Fig. 1) which is conveniently supported by the bridge 84 of the sewing machine. The tripping of lever 288 causes the momentary closing of a switch 290 which closes a circuit including the coil of solenoid 262 thereby energizing solenoid 262, thereby causing downward movement of armature 260 and lever 256 on shaft 254. Arm 252 is moved thereby in the direction indicated by the arrow shown in Fig. 1.

Since the upper end of arm 252 is connected to the lower end of control lever 220, the former causes the latter to move sideways, thereby effecting a disengagement of pin 266 from pin 268 on arm 276. When this occurs spring 286 pulls arm 276 upwardly and causes pin 268 to slide along pin 266, thus acting to lock arm 220 from returning to its original position. Since arm 220 is pivoted at 222, its upper free end 228 is moved also in a sideward direction, but opposite to that of the lower end. This movement causes pin 230 acting upon shoulder 232, to impart an axial movement of sleeve member 234 along shaft 162, which disengages jaw 238 from lock plate 240 on pulley 168. The same movement of sleeve member 234 also causes a compression of spring 244.

a zae xino The swinging motion of control lever 220- etfectsa downward motion of arm 218 which through rod 216, collar 226 and spring 224 rocks crank lever 2.08. When bell crank lever 203 is rocked in this manner through link 206, arm 204 and clutch fork 200, clutch collar 193 on shaft 184 is moved in. such a manner as to cause an engagement of the clutch member 174 with the constantly driven clutch drum 196, and thus, through pulley 172, belt 170 and pulley 168 effecting the drive of the entire sewing machine. To prevent sleeve member 234 and jaw 238 from turning, shoulder 232 of sleeve member 234 is provided with a lug 291' (Fig. 1). This lug is provided with a bore in which slides a horizontal stud 293 projecting from and held by a bracket 294 attached to the frame of the machine.

The stopping of the machine at the end of a cycle is etfected by a control lug 296' mounted on a cam 29S (Figs. 2 and 3). During each machine cycle lug 296 passes a stationary switch 3% and closesit momentarily.

The closing of switch. 300 makes a circuit. including the coil of solenoid 282 (Fig. 1) thereby energizing solenoid 282 momentarily, and causing its armature 280 and arm 276 to move downwardly thus elfecting a disengagement of pin 268 with the side of pin 266 on lever 220. As soon as pin 263 moves out of engagement with pin 266, compression spring 244 pressing against hub 248 of sleeve member 234, urges the jaw 238 into engagement with lock plate 240, and further rotation of pulley 168 is stopped precisely at the end of the cycle. Since pin 263 is out of engagement with the side of pin 266, control lever 220 is moved backward at the same time toresume the position it occupied before the machine was started, whereupon pin 2653 again comes to rest against the butt end of pin 266 of lever 220, as shown in Fig. 1A.

Switch 3% (Figs. 2 and 3) is mounted on bracket 302 attached to the frame of the machine and its actuating member preferably is provided with a roller 304. Cam 28 is mounted on shaft 306 protruding from gear reduction housing 3% (Figs. 1, 2 and 3). The reduction gears (not shown) in housing 368 are driven by shaft 310 protruding from housing 308, sprocket 312 secured. thereon and chain 314 from sprocket 316 secured to shaft 136 mentioned heretofore.

The button sewing machine embodying the invention also is provided with a thread puller 318 (Fig. 1). Thread puller 318 is attached to the free end of arm 320 mounted on one end of horizontal shaft. 322 rotatably supported in bracket 324 (Fig. l) fastened. to frame. 30. of the machine. Secured to the other end of shaft 322 is an arm 326, carrying a roller 328 engaging in a track formed by a pair of spaced bars 330 mounted on gear It will be evident that. when gear. 154 is. rotated, shaft 322 driven by means of the. connections. described,, rotates thread puller 318-. Since the construction and. operation of thread puller 318 is substantially the same as. that. shown and described in Johnson Patent 2,386,800, further showing and description thereof is deemed unnecessary.

In the embodiment selected for illustrating the invention, the material or work My to which. a button. or similar fastening means is to be sewed, isv folded over the free end of a support member such as a gauge plate or tongue, designated generally 332 (Figs. 9 and 10) with the folded edge portion to which the button is to be sewed extending beyond the edge of plate 332 and properly gauged for sewing.

Since it may be desired to position the end of plate 332 nearer or farther from the path of travel of needle 96' in order to attach buttons to fabrics of different thicknesses, plate 332 is so formed that it can be adjusted as Plate. 332 is attached. to pill 334 resting in a groove in round supporting bar 3367 rigidly attached at its center portion to the upper portion of a vertical stud shaft 338' rotatably supported in boss 340 of work supporting. table 342 (Fig. 10

Pin 334 is rotatably held in the. groove of supporting bar 336 by means. of flat spring plate 344 attached to the upper portion of vertical stud shaft 338. The lower end portion of shaft 338 is clamped to a suitably shaped bearing. lug 346,. which carries a horizontal stud shaft 348;

The forked end of a. U- or V-shaped. lock member 350 is pivoted on. shaft 348. Projecting from the under side.

of lock member 350' is. a lock stud 352 which when in locked position, engages with slot 354' in an arc-shaped lock lug356 secured to the lower side of work supporting table 342. One arm. of lock. member 350 is provide with a trip finger 358 the upper free end of which extends partially over the top side of the gauge, plate 332.

In order to fold the cloth or material over gauge plate 332, the operator moves trip finger 358' in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 10 thereby disengaging lock stud 352 on lock member 350' from slot 354 of lock lug 356. Gauge plate 332 can then be moved sideward. in the direction of the arrow shown in. Fig. 9. After stud 352 is disengaged from slot 354 when the operator releases trip finger 358' the bottom of stud 352 rides on top surface 357 of arc-shaped lock lug 356 while plate 332 is moved sideways about its pivot 338. The operator can then lift the free end of plate 332 upward and fold the cloth or material M thereover in such a way' that the point or mark on the material at which a button is to be sewed is located properly at the center point of the free end of plate 332, see Figs. 9 and 10. Plate 332 with material M held in place by the operator is then lowered into operative position relative to work supporting table 342, as shown in Fig. 10, and swung sidewards towards the needle 96 until lock stud 352 drops into slot 354' thereby automatically locking plate 332- in sewing position. After a button is sewn to the work or material M, the operator again trips finger 358 to effect a disengagemerit of stud 352. from slot 354 in order that plate 332 can he moved, as described above, to position the work or material M for sewing the next button.

The machine is provided with a presser foot 360 I adatped to be moved into and out of engagement with the work or material M to which buttons are to be sewed by means of a manually operated treadle, such as a knee actuated pedal 362 (Fig. 3A). When pedal 362 is depressed, presser foot 360. is raised above the 7 work on gauge plate 332, and the work can be shifted as desired, or plate 332 can beswung to and from operative position.

Presser foot 360 also functions as a needle guide and as means for preventing unwinding of the loops of thread formed during a part of the sewing cycle in wrapping the post" or stem of thread attaching. the button to the work or material M. These functions will be described further hereinafter as the description proceeds. Knee pedal 362 forms part of a vertical lever attached to horizontal. shaft 364 (Fig. 3A), loosely supported by a pair of bearing lugs 366 mounted on one of the supporting members 34 of the machine frame. An armv 368 secured to shaft 364 is connected by link 370 (Figs. 1 and 3A) to one arm of a suitably shaped lever 372,.

- pivoted to stud 374 held by bracket 376 attached to the frame of the machine. The. other arm lever 372 engages a fork: formed by two vertically spaced lugs 378 and 380 (Figs. 2 and 3A) secured'to-vertical rod 382 slidably supported in lugs 94 and 384 projecting from the. front 1 end: of bridge 84.

In the illustrated embodiment lug 386 forms an integral part of presser foot and needle guide 366'; The position of presser foot' 360 with. respect to plate 332 is controlled by a collar: 386 (Fig. 2): adjustably mounted on the. upper end. of rod 332'. This rod: is encircled by a tension spring 388, the ends of which are confined between stationary lug 384 and a collar 390 on rod 382. In order to prevent the presser foot 365': from lifting except when the knee pedal 362 is depressed by an operator, an additional tension spring 392 (Fig. 3A) is provided. Spring 392 encircles a portion of horizontal shaft 364 and exerts tension in the proper direction by having one end attached to collar 394 on shaft 364. The other end of spring 392 is held by one of the stationary bearing lugs 366. Springs 388 and 392 insure that presser foot and needle guide 36%) will always maintain the work or material M resiliently and firmy positioned on gauge plate 332, until pedal 36?. is pressed to lift rod 382 and presser foot 360 upwardly, as described. In order that the work and a button to be attached thereto may be positioned properly, at all times during the sewing operations relative to the needle, work supporting table 342 on which gauge plate 332 is pivotally supported, is given a compound closed path of movement in a substantially horizontal plane. Table 342 in the embodiment selected for purposes of illustration is reciprocated sideways, and also back and forth in order to enable needle 96 to pass in a predetermined manner back and forth through the holes in a button B. In accordance with the preferred manner of operating table 342, the under side thereof is provided with three downwardly extending spaced supporting lugs 396. One lug is slidably supported on a stud shaft 398; the other lugs are slidably supported on stud shafts 4111) (Figs. 3A and 9).

Each stud shaft 4% is secured to a pair of spaced arms 4G2 which extend upwardly from a sleeve or elongated hub 404 (Figs. 2, 3A and loosely mounted on horizontal shaft 406. The ends of shaft 496 are mounted in suitable bearing brackets 448 attached to the upright flange of supporting members 34. Stud shaft is secured to a pair of spaced arms 4119 extending upwardly from a sleeve or elongated hub 412 loosely mounted on horizontal shaft 414. One end of shaft 414 is held by a bearing bracket 498; the other end thereof is secured to bridge bracket 416 (Fig. 3A) supported at one end by shaft 496 and at the other by tie rod 418 attached at both ends to hearing brackets 498. Hub 412 also is provided with a lug 420 (Figs. 2 and 3A). A pin 422 carried by lug 420 is pivotally connected to the forked end of a suitably shaped connecting member 424 which at its free end is provided with an adjustable screw 426 engaging one arm 428 of bell crank lever 429 (Fig. 3A); the other arm 430 of bell crank lever 429 carries a cam roller 432 maintained in constant engagement with cam 434. One end of spring 436 is attached to an arm 438 projecting from hub 404; its other end is anchored to tie rod 418.

Cam 434 is mounted on a vertical shaft 440 (Figs. 3 and 7). As cam 434 is rotated by shaft 440 oscillating back and forth motion or movement to the left and right, as viewed in Figs. 3 and 3A, is transmitted to work supporting table 342 through arm 430, arm 428, member 424, lug 42D, hub 412 and arms 4143. Bell crank lever 429 formed by arms 428 and 434 is pivotally mounted on an upright stud 442 (Figs. 2 and 3A) held in a suitable boss of bridge bracket 416.

Also secured to the top end of vertical shaft 440 is a cam 444 which is tracked by a cam follower 446 pivotally mounted on stud 448 carried by cam lever 459 loosely mounted on upright stud 442. The free end of cam lever 450 carries another roller 452 (Figs. 2 and 3A) which engages with the blunt end of a horizontal stud shaft 454 adjustably secured to a lug 456 mounted or formed on and projecting from the under side of work supporting table 342. A tension spring 458 is provided to assure constant contact of stud shaft 454 with roller 452, which through cam lever 45% also assures constant engagement of cam roller 446 with cam 444. One end of tension spring 458 on one end is hooked to stud 460 (Figs. 3A and 10) projecting from table 342; its other end is anchored to pin 462 fixed to horizontal stud 464 attached to a vertical flange of one of the frame support members 34.

Cam shaft 440 is driven by means of Worm gear 466 (Fig. 3) from a worm 468 mounted on horizontal shaft 476 supported by and protruding from a housing 472 which also supports cam shaft 440 and encloses Worm gear 466 and worm 468. Housing 472 is suitably supported by and suspended from stationary shaft 406 and tie rod 418. Shaft 470 is driven by sprocket 474 attached thereto (Figs. 2 and 3) by chain 476 running on driving sprocket 478 secured to horizontal shaft 144 mentioned heretofore. Shaft 144 is supported by a suitable hearing bracket 481) attached to the rear wall of stationary thread guide drum 482 suitably secured to the frame of the machine. The loose end of thread T is disposed above drum 482 by thread puller 320 during the operation of the machine in the same general manner as disclosed in the above referred to Johnson patent.

Buttons B tobe sewed to material M are either fed by hand or from an automatic hopper of suitable design into an inclined button guide chute 490, the top portion of which is loosely supported in a suitable slot of an angle iron bracket 492 attached to a vertical flange of a cover plate 494 (Fig. 3). Mounted on the rear wall of the lower portion of chute 490 is a stud 496 (Figs. 3A and 4) which loosely rests in an angular slot 498 of a bracket 500 attached to and suspended from lug 94 of bridge 84. Stud 496 is provided with a shoulder which normally rests against the front side of bracket 500. The free end of stud 496 which extends through slot 498 to the rear side of bracket 500, as viewed in Figs. 3A and 4, is provided with tension spring 502 and collar 504 to make the lower support or button chute 490 yieldable in a sideward direction.

Button chute 490 consists chiefly of a substantially rectangular channel 506 provided with suitable slots. Buttons B are inserted in the flared top end of channel 506 with their peripheries engaging the bottom of channel 596, thus permitting them to roll downwardly in chute 490 with the bottom side or face of each button facing the material and operator. The bottom or discharge end of chute 490 is positioned in front of a button aligner and ejector 510 (Figs. 3A and 4) and has a hole 508 (Fig. 13) provided in the rear Wall of channel 506 to permit ejector 510 to move therethrough and push the lowermost button in channel 506 therefrom into a button chuck 520. The front wall of the bottom portion of chute 49v) is formed with a suitable opening to permit this ejecting operation. The bottom or discharge end of channel 506 is provided with a stop lug 512 (Figs. 4 and 14) to prevent the buttons from dropping out of chute 490.

In order to prevent buttons B from falling out of the opening in the front wall of chute 490, as they arrive at the bottom of channel 506, the latter is provided with a pair of yieldable button retaining fingers 514 (Figs. 13 and 14), which at one end are loosely or pivotally attached to the rear wall of channel 506. The free ends of finger 514 are formed into U-shaped lugs 516 which project over the top and bottom edge of channel 506, respectively, and prevent the lowermost button in chute 490 from falling out of the opening in the front wall of the bottom portion of channel 506 during the aligning and before the ejecting operation.

It is essential in the automatic feeding of buttons incident to the operation of the machine constructed in accordance with the invention that every button be positioned relative to the work with its holes always located in exactly the same position above or on the material. The mechanism herein described insures this positioning of buttons and that the needle can pass properly through the button holes during the sewing operation, which, as a rule, follows a predetermined pattern. 7

Since buttons B in rolling down channel 506 may arrive at the. bottom or discharge end thereof. with their holes in almost any unpredictable position, it is of utmost importance to align or reposition each button with itsv holes arranged to. permit unobstructed passage of needle 96' therethrough before it is ejected from channel 506 andpushed into button chuck 520 which supports and holds it firmly during the entire sewing operation.

Buttons of different diameter can be handled and sewed to material. The spacing of holes in buttons is fairly uniform even though diameters varyif a smaller or larger button than that shown in Fig. 4 is to be sewed to the work chuck 520 can be removed by loosening set screw 52!, and a different block 598 and chuck 526 substituted. Chute 490 is also removed, and a new chute 4-90- d'esigned to accommodate the selected button is clipped to the machine in place of the chute 49B removed.

A suitable mechanism for aligning holes in buttons arriving at the bottom end of the button chute 490 is shown in- Figs. BA, 4 and This mechanism includes a horizontal plunger 522 (Figs. 3A, 4' and 5) rotatably and slidably supported by' hearing block 524 (Figs. 2 and 3A) mounted on bracket526 attached to the frame of the machine. The forward end of plunger S22 is providedwith a head piece 528 (Fig. 5) preferably having a tapered edge secured thereto and slidingly supporting a pair of horizontal pins 530. In the device illustrated two pins 539 are shown. If desired three or four pins could be used. Pins 530a-re concentrically spaced in such a way as to correspondwith the respective centers of a pair of opposed holes in a button. Each pin 53% is provided with an enlarged blunt end 532 held resiliently in contact with the rear sideof headpiece 528 by compression spring 534' confined in a bore 536 (Fig. 5) in plunger 522. The point of each pin 530 preferably is conical in shape in order to perm-it easy" engagement with holes in buttons and enable the pins to operate effectively even when there may be a slight difference in distance between the centers of button holes from that of the pins 53:).

The shank of plunger S22 is provided with longitudinal flutes or grooves 538 (Figs. 3A and 4) which mesh with gear 540' mounted on shaft 54?. supported by bearing block 52-4. A cam lever 544 is alsosecured to shaft 542. A cam' follower or pin 546' carried by lever 544- runs in cam track 543 of drum earn 550 mounted on shaft 552'. Shaft 552" is driven by a sprocket 5554 (Figs. 2 and 3)- through chain- 556 which is driven by sprocket 558 mounted on' shaft 306. The rear portion of plunger 522 (Figs. 3A and 4) is provided with an annular groove or recess 566 in which runs apin 5'62 held by and projecting from cam lever 564' loosely mounted on a stationary stud shaft 566-held by and projecting from hearing block 5224. Cam lever 564- is also provided with a cam finger or lug 5(8 which contacts a canr570 mounted onshaft 552 mentioned heretofore. A tension spring 572, wound around stud shaft 566 and having one end attached to the hub of cam lever 564 and its other end secured to a collar 574 (Fig; 3A) secured to stationary stud shaft 566, urges cam lug 563 into engagement with earn 570.

A button B resting at the bottom end of button chute 490 is aligned or repositioned during the running period of themachine, i. e. during thetime the preceding button 8 is sewed onto the material. During this period, plunger 522 is advanced towards the face of'buttonB-by cam 570 and pin- 562 on cam lever 564 engaging recess 566 in plunger 52L until headpiece 52-8 and pins 530 have contacted the face of the button. At. this time, due to its yieldable mounting the bottom portion of button chute 490, is also pushed slightlyforward; This movement, due to the action of spring 502 on chute support-studv 496, creates a tension on the face of the button against pins 530. Plunger 522, under the action of drum earn 550 uponcam lever 544 and gear 540-, is then oscillated? clock and counterclockwise, causing pins 530 K) find and enter into one pair of opposed holes on the button. The ten sion exerted by spring 502 upon chute 491D and the button causes chute- 490 to move slightly backwards again.

Ample time is provided to oscillate plunger 522. and for pins 530 to, find and engage with the holes inthe button before the repositioned button is ejected from chute 490'. When oscillation of plunger 522 stops due to a dwellin cam 550 the. holes in the next button to be ejected from chute 4-90 are located. in the desired position for sewing operations in the next cycle of the machine.

With the cloth or material M properly disposed upon gauge plate 332, as described heretofore, the operator, before starting the machine, presses knee pedal 576, which effects the ejection of the button from the bottom of chute 490 and its delivery into button chuck 520. Knee pedal 576 is secured to a suitably bent rod 578 (Figs. 3 and 4) loosely mounted in a suitable bearing lug 580 (Fig. 3) projecting from one of the brackets 408. Secured. to' rod 578 is an upright actuating finger 582 (Fig. 4). The free end of finger 582 engages an elongated cam slot 584 formed in horizontal plate 586' mounted on one. end of lever SS8 pivoted to a stud 590 (Figs. 3 and 4) fixed to frame member 30. The other end of lever 588 (Figs; 3 and 4) is positioned to engage dome shaped end 592 of ejector plunger 522. Hence a depressionv of knee ped'al 576 through finger 5.82 and plate 586 rocks lever'588 and causes. the free end thereof to engage dome shapedend 5921 of the plunger 522 and move plunger 522 to the left,

as viewed in Fig. 4. This forward movement of plunger 522 disengages button B from clamp lugs 516 which are yi'eldably connected by means of spring 594 (Figs. 13 and 14). A continued forward motion of plunger 522 brings button B, carried by pins 530'into contact and finally inengagement with a button chuck, designated generally 520. In the embodiment selected for purposes of illustration see Figs. 4, l1 and 12, chuck 520 includes a pair of opposed clamping jaws 596 and 597. J aw 596 is rigidly mounted on chuck holder 598;, jaw 597 is pivotally mounted on stud 600 held by supporting plate 602 attached to chuckv holder 598. Pivoted jaw 597 is yieldingly connected to rigidly mounted jaw 596 by spring 604.

In order to assure proper seating of a button pushed by pusher 5221betwecn jaws 596,597 fixed jaw'596 is provided with suitable button guide lug 6.06. Chuck holder 5596 is provided with a short shaft 608 which is rotatably supported in bracket 610 secured to the top face of work supporting'table 342'. In FiguresZ, 3A and4, the endof shaft 608 is shown provided with a slotted crank-like camlug 612. If desired however,.l'ug; 612' could be made of a separate member suitably'attached to shaft 608. A pin or cam follower 614 mounted on one arm of lever 616 engages slot 615 in lug 614. Lever 616 is pivotally mounted on a stud shaft 618 held in bracket 620secured' to the top face of the traveling work supporting table 342. Arm 622 of lever 616 is provided with a wigglepin 624 (Fig. 2) connected. to. lever 626. The upper end of pin 624 is. seated in conical seat 628 on lever 622; its lower end is seated in a conical seat 630 on lever 626,,thus providing a. flexible connection between lever 626 and arm. 622.

Lever 626 is pivoted to stud shaft 632held. by bracket 634 attached to housing 32. A link 636. (Figs. 2 and.

3A) connects lever 626. and. arm 638 clamped to one end of shaft 118. A cam lever 642 fixed to the other end of shaft 118- carries, a. cam follower 64.4 (Figs. 2 and 3) which, during'postwinding operations, engages with, and during sewing operation is. disengaged from cam. 298.

As mentioned heretofore; shaft 118 also. has. securedthereto lug. 116- which' through rod. 114: operates clutch member 1'02 which controls the. action and speed of move.- ment of looper arm 98 during. sewing and post winding operations; A tension spring 646 encircling shaft 632 has one endattached to: lever 626. Its other end is anchoned to; collar 648fixed to (Fig. 3A) stationary stud shaft 632. Spring; 646 functions to maintain. follower 644 on cam lever 642- in contact. with. cam 298iand,.when itleaves canr298, urges'it in: such: direction tocause-dowm ward: motion. to. arm 638.. This movement of arm 638 through link 636, also causes a downward movement of arm 622 through wiggle pin 624, held in flexible contact with lever 626 by means of tension spring 650.

Downward movement of arm 622 effects upward move ment of arm 616, which through its connection with cranklike cam lug 612, causes the stud shaft 608 of chuck holder 598 to rotate approximately 90, thus moving button clamping jaws 596 and 597 of button chuck 520 from a substantially vertical button receiving position, as shown in Figs. 3A and 4, to a substantially horizontal position.

A stop screw 652 held by a suitable lug 654 (Figs. 2 and 3A), located beneath arm 63:; is provided to arrest the latter when jaws 596 and 597 have reached their desired substantially horizontal position or the button sewing position in the illustrated embodiment of the invention.

The turning of jaws 596 and 597 of button chuck 520 results therefore in turning a button held in chuck 520 from receiving position to a face-up sewing position where the button B is located exactly over the spot on work or material M to which it is to be sewed. The machine is so timed, and cam 298 is so designed, that after the sewing operation, cam roller 644 again contacts cam 298 and thereby, through the connections mentioned above, effects a turning of button chuck 520 from the substantially horizontal sewing position back to its substantially vertical or post winding position, after which the post Winding operation commences. It is evident that jaws 596 and 527 are located in a substantially vertical plane when a button is delivered theretofrom and when the post is being wound.

A pair of properly spaced stop pins 656 held by flange 658 (Figs. 3A and 4) on bracket 610, are provided to limit the movements of crank lug 612 and locate button chuck 526 in correct operative position for button sewing, and post winding, and button delivery or vertical position. Button chuck 520 is turned only twice during one cycle of the machine, i. e. from vertical to horizontal for the sewing operation and from horizontal back to vertical for the post winding operation. When the work with a button sewed thereto is removed from plate 332, the button is pulled edgewise manually from between jaws 596, 597. This leaves empty button chuck 520 positioned for delivery of the next button thereinto.

In order to provide sufiicient clearance and avoid interference between upper needle bar 36 and of button chuck 529, when the latter is turned as described above, earn 298 is provided with two properly spaced and suitably shaped lugs 66%, which during each revolution of cam 293 contact a suitably shaped cam follower 662 (Figs. 2 and 3) attached to the free end of earn lever 664 projecting from one end of an elongated hub or sleeve 666 loosely supported on shaft 118. The other end of sleeve 666 is provided with an arm 668 which through a con necting rod 679 is connected to arm 672 loosely supported by a stud shaft 674 held by bracket 634. The face end of arm 672 is provided with a nose 676 which projects underneath plate or bar 678 attached to the underside and extending from lug 68 of hub 64 of upper needle bar actuating arm 62. Arm 672 is provided with a tension spring 680 having one end attached thereto; the other end of spring 680 is anchored to collar 682 secured to stationary stud shaft 674 (Fig. 3A), thus providing means of positioning cam follower 662 in the path of travel of lugs 66% on rotating cam 298. A stop screw 684 adjustably mounted in lug 654 and contacting the lower edge of arm 668 provides a stop and rest for the latter when inactive.

Every time a lug 660 contacts cam follower 662, a quick raising and lowering of arm 672 and nose 676 is efiected. Since nose 676 is located beneath plate 678, this plate also is raised and lowered. This movement is transmitted to upper needle bar actuating arm 62, and upper needle bar 36 proper, resulting in a quick momentary raising of needle bar 36 through the yieldable connection of hub 64 with hub 76, regardless of the action 14 of cam lever 90. In this manner each time chuck 520 is turned to or from sewing position, and button receiving and post winding position. it can move without danger of interfering with the movement of needle 96 and needle bar 36.

Post wrapping may be effected by forming a substantially figure eight winding or wrapping passing in between and about the loops of thread attaching a button to the work. This may be accomplished by removing earns 434 and 444, and substituting cams 435 and 445, respectively therefor. The movement of table 342 to and from the path of travel of needle 96 is such that during the movement of needle 96 as it travels in the figure eight path under the combined action of cams 435 and 445, needle 6 moves downwardly between the loops of thread, and then upwardly first along one side of the loop and then along the other side of the loops of thread connecting the button to the work or material M. The dwell portion of cam 435 is so designed as to move table 342 slowly towards the path of needle 96 during the post winding operation. This movement guides the winding loops for distribution in side by side relationship along the loops of thread attaching the button to the work. This winding method forms a tight lock post winding automatically locking the winding thread against unwinding or unwrapping because of the way it is disposed between and around the loops of thread connecting the button to the work.

The method employed for sewing a button to a garment or a piece of material with the machine disclosed in the accompanying drawings may be termed a blind stitch method wherein all stitches, with the exception of the first stitched, are made inside or within the thickness of the cloth or material. However, the machine is provided with a stitch adjusting device which enables the machine to make the first stitch also a blind stitch.

As mentioned heretofore, the method of sewing a button to the material with this machine combines two general operations, i. e. a sewing operation, and a stem or post winding operation. The successive steps involved in the sewing operation are illustrated diagrammatically in Figs. 15 to 23, inclusive. The several post winding operations are illustrated diagrammatically in Figs. 24- to 28, inclusive.

In the embodiment of the invention selected for purposes of illustration, needle 96 is shown as having two sharp pointed ends, and an eye located between the ends. If desired needle 96 need only be provided with one sharp point, the other end of the needle being blunt or rounded, as shown in Fig. 33. Needle 97 when formed in this way will, operate satisfactorily because the sewing is in one direction only. That is, the sharp point of the needle moves downwardly through the work, as illustrated in the drawings, and on its upward movement the rounded or blunt end of the needle will pass through a selective button hole only. This type of needle is desirable because it is cheaper to make.

The work or material M to which a button is to be sewed first is folded, as described hereiuabove, over gauge plate 332 of work supporting table 342, placing the point at which button B is to be sewed to material M substantially centrally of the free end of gauge plate 332. The latter is then lowered adjacent to the face of table 342, and swung and locked in sewing position, as described heretofore. The operator then takes a piece of thread T of predetermined length, threads needle 96, which at the start of the sewing operations is held by upper needle bar 36 above folded material M on the gauge plate 332 (Fig. 15). The length of thread T preferably is sufficient to sew 3 or 4 buttons. The short end S of the thread T is held or clamped by the thumb or finger of the operator upon the top surface of material M in order to prevent slipping thereof thread during the formation of the first few stitches.

The operator then depresses the knee pedal 576 which efiects. the ejection of an. aligned button from the bottom of. chute 490 and its transfer into jaws 596, 597 of button chuck 520 in the manner described, heretofore. ,At this time jaws 596, 597 are positioned in a substantially vertical position to receive button 8 (Fig. 15). A suitable tension spring 684, attached to rod 578% of pedal 576 (Figs. 3- and 4), coacts. with spring. 572' and retracts plunger 522 and causes the disengagement of pins 530 from the holes after button B is pressed into jaws 596 and 597.

The machine is now ready for the sewing operation. The operator trips starting lever 288 which closes switch 290 which causesstarting. of the machine through the. clutch control mechanism illustrated in Fig. 1, and described heretofore. With the button still heldinverti'cal position; upper needle bar 36' descends and pushes needle 96 through the cloth or material M into engage ment with lower needle bar 38 (Fig. 16) which then. descends and pulls needle 96 completely through the material. with the loop formed by the thread and pulls the long. or loose end' thereof through. the cloth anddeposits it on stationary thread guide drum 482,. the short. end S oh the thread being held. bythe' operator. The action of the thread puller 318 in. conjunction witharnr 320 and guide drum 432 is fully disclosed in Johnson Patent 2,386,800 and further description thereof is deemed unnecessary. Upper needle bar 36 in the meantime has ascended and is raised momentarily above its normal uppermostposition to allow the button. chuck 520' to turn free from interference with needle bar 36, and locate button B in. a faceup horizontal or sewing position above the selected spot or point on material M to which it is to be sewn..-

Work supporting. table 342 to which. material M is clamped, and which also supports button chuck 520 due to the action of earn 434 has moved towards the front of the machine or to the left, as viewed in (Fig. 9) so that ascending lower needle. bar 38 now pushes needle 96 upwardly past the folded edge of material M (Fig. 17) and partly through a hole in. the horizontally held button. The protruding end of needle 96- then engages waiting upper needle bar 36 which pulls it upwardly and through hole I of the button (Fig. 22).. After needle bar. 36' has reached its uppermost position, it descends again a' short. distance, thereby causing thread T to slack along. needle 96 and form loop L above material M. The loop portion to the left of needle 96,. as viewed. in Fig..18:)-,.isengaged by pointed finger 686 which in combination with thread guide roller 68S attached to oscillating looper' arm. 98 is. provided for the purpose ofpulling the loose r end of thread T away from and clean of the path ofneedle 95 which descends again as soon. as the work supporting table can'ying' the. material and. the button chuck have moved to aposition to permit needle 96 to enter hole ll (Fig.22) of button B(Fig. 19).

A stationary mounted: suitably shaped thread guide 687 (Fig. 6) is provided to keep the vertical portion of the loose end of thread T close to lower needle bar'38 in order to assist in forming loop L which can: be easily engaged by the pointed finger 686 on looper arm. 98. Thread guide 687 is suitably mounted on; a framemember of the machine. Needle 96 is pushed downwardly through hole ii, and the folded portion of the. material by upper needle bar 36, and then. engages with. lower needle bar 33 which. pulls needle 96' completely through buttonhole ti, and material M. Thread puller. 318 on arm 329 engages the loop formed in thread. T beneath. work table 342, and pulls the long looseend thereof through buttonhole II and material M (Fig. 20.), and

disposes the loose portion of threadT about thread guide drum i252. Table 342 and button chuck 520 again move to permit now ascending needle 96 to pass the outer edge of the folded material! (Fig. 21) and enter hole. ill of button B; The protruding end of needle 96 engages with. upper needle bar 3'6 which pulls it through Thread puller 318,. described hereinabove. engages 16 button hole IH. A loop L is formed again and engaged by poiht'ed finger 686; and roller 685 on looper arm 98 and thread T is pulled out of the way of the needle which, after another shift of the table 342 and button chuck 52H, descendsagainv and enters hole IV of the Lower button and'the folded portion of the material. needle-bar 38' again engages needle 96 and pulls it com-- pletely through hole IV of button B' and the folded portion of the material, thereby resulting in the formation of a blind stitch.

It is tohe noted that as shown in (Figs. 17 to 21) inclusive, the thread of all. stitches except the first, is contained within the work, that is, between the outer and the inner curved surfaces of the work folded about the free end of gauge plate 332 In this manner, when the work is removed, and flattened out, only a single thread prick will appear upon the undersurface of material M, thereby closely simulating a high class hand" sewn button.

Since. the combined action of table actuating cams 434- and 444 produce a so-call'ed. figure eight motion, the

button-sewing. operations described above are repeated.

a predetermined numberv of times wherein needle 96 passes up first from the bottom of" button B through hole I-, then goes. down. through hole 11 and material M, then moves up from the bottom. of button B through hole III and goes down through hole IV and the material, after which needle 96 starts up again through hole I. When a. button 1?; has been sewn to material M in. the manner described by a predetermined number of stitches (Fig. 23 the. actual sewing-operations are. completed. It has been. found. hat three or four complete loops through each pair of; button holes. results in. a good attachment of a button to the work. ,If desired,. the. sewing pattern, and number ofloops. can. be. changed by changing the shape ofcams43'4: and 444.

Upper needle bar 36,, at. the conclusion of the sewing operatiom. after reaching its uppermost position, is again momentarily raisedthereabove inorder to permit button ehuck5-20 to. turn. back to its vertical position, thus locating. the bottom' side of; button B substantially parallel with a plane. tangent; to the curveof. the foldededge of material M on gauge plate1'332. Since button B is held by jaws? 5'96: and 5% apredetermined distance away from materiah M, the stitches connecting button. 13' to material M' assumes: a substantially horizontal position, as indicaCed in Figure 214, when. button chuck 520 is turned to locate jaws 596' and 597 and button B held therein in asubstantially vertical plane; As chuck 520 is turned, button 3- slides. along the loops of thread connecting the button to: the. work: as it) moves to the position shown in Figure- 24*. -In the meantime; the work supporting table 342", and buttonchuck supported therein through action of earn 434; have moved towards the front of the machine again, preventing ascending needle 96 from going through material Instead needle 96 passes in front of thefolded edge thcreofas shown in Fig. 24.

am 434 is so" designed that table 342 dwells in its forward-most position, and prevents any back and forth motion thereof during the entire post winding operation, except when the last lock stitch isformed. During the entire post winding operation, work table 342' and button chuck 520 are only reciprocated' sideways by means of cam 4.44 to efiect a proper winding of stem or post P. The post winding operation. starts as needle- 96 is pushed upwardly by lower needle "bar 38' and since in the meantimetable 342. has moved to the. left as viewed in Fig. 24, needle 96 passes upwardly alongside the loops of thread' connecting the button to. the work as shown 'in Fig. 14;

Needle 96' is then engaged by upper needle bar 36 which pulls it high enough to permit table 342' with material M}, button B" and. chuck 520 to move to the opposite direction such that. on the. following downward Stroke, needle 96 passes on the opposite side of the loops of thread which are to form stem or post P (Fig. 25). However, before needle 96 descends, loops L, formed by the thread above table 342 and alongside needle 96 in the same manner as described heretofore, is engaged by pointed finger 686 and roller 685 on the oscillating looper arm 98 and moved to a position where the thread is brought in contact with a spring mounted rubber roller 692 (Fig. 26) which is employed for the purpose of giving tension to the loose end of the thread and prevent whipping of the same and at the same time effecting a tighter form of winding around the post P. Needle guide 360 which is located above the work supporting table and acts as a presser foot to hold the work properly positioned thereon for sewing, provides a guide surface which prevents a flexing of the needle 96 out of its proper vertical path of movement. Unless the needle is at all times properly located for transfer from one opposed needle bar to the other, breakage and loss of valuable time in sewing results. For example, when sewing a button to a garment, such as a mans suit or coat, there may be six layers of cloth disposed about gauge plate 332, two of which layers may be buckram, a stifi fabric. When the point of the needle engages this fabric and moves downwardly through the folded work, the needle may tend to flex out of its proper vertical path of movement and therefore is not properly located for engagement with the opposing needle 'bar to which it is to be transferred. The provision of needle guide 360 obviates this difficulty because the needle moves closely adjacent this guide which is rigidly held against lateral movement and thus proper positioning of the point of the needle is assured.

The main purpose of looper arm 93, is to hold the loose end of thread T out of the path of descending needle 96 (Fig. 26). Thread guide 637 assists in guiding the loose end of thread T as it leaves stationary drum 482.

As mentioned heretofore, the action of looper arm 98 during post winding operations is controlled by looper cam 176 which is brought into engagement with clutch member 102 at the end of the sewing operations when button chuck 520 is turned from a sewing position to post winding position. In continuing the post winding operation, upper needle bar 36 moves the needle downwardly past the left side of the post P (Fig. 26) after which needle 96 is engaged by lower needle bar 38 and pulled to its lowermost position during which time table 342 with material M and button B moves to the left again as viewed in Fig. 26. As lower needle bar 38 starts moving upward again, a loop formed in thread T is engaged by thread puller 313 on rotating arm 32% and the loose end of thread T is pulled down and deposited upon stationary thread guide 482 mentioned heretofore (Fig. 27). Needle 96 during its upward movement now passes the right side of stem P, is then engaged by upper needle bar Ten winding or wraps of thread have been found to give satisfactory results, although more or less could be used if desired. This can be accomplished by changing the design of cam 444.

After the completion of the post winding operations thus described, a combined action of cams 434 and 4 44 upon table 342 takes place, causing the latter to stop momentarily in such a position that upwardly moving needle 96 passes through post P (Fig. 28), thus locking the end of thread T by stitch F in the shank or post. Recess 333 formed in the free end of plate 332 provides an opening for the passage of needle 96 therethrough. After passing through the material, upwardly moving needle 96 is engaged by upper needle bar 36 carried to its uppermost position and the machine stops. Figure 28 illustrates a button B sewed onto the material M with a wrapped post or stem P after completion of sewing and post winding operation. Th; operator then cuts off both ends of the thread which protrude from the material and the button sewed thereon can be removed from gauge plate 332 in the manner described heretofore.

if desired, short ends of thread T, which at the beginning of the sewing operations is held by the finger of the operator against the material, may be locked within the post P. For this purpose, a small slotted clamp member t'iil (Fig. 4) may be attached to stationary jaw 596 of button chuck 520. Thread T is then threaded through the eye of the needle and the slot in member 694, but the short end is still held by the operator until the first few stitches are made.

As mentioned heretofore and illustrated in Fig. 29, the button sewing machine embodying the invention can be so adjusted that the first stitch also is a blind stitch. For this purpose a flange 696 (Figs. l, 3A and 9) secured to the top surface of work supporting table 342 carries an upright stud shaft 698 rotatably attached thereto. Stud shaft 698 supports a horizontally adjustable stop screw 700 which may be so adjusted that its end projects over the rear edge of work supporting table 342. Since it is the depth of the first notch 702 on cam 434 (Fig. 7) which controls the relative position of the table and material with respect to needle 96 during the formation of the first stitch, and roller 432 on cam lever 430 is prevented by stop screw 700 from entering into notch 702 to its fullest extent, the edge of material M on table 342 is moved further away from the needle and the latter may pass through the folded edge only of material M instead of behind the folded edge. To secure this condition, the operator swings sew screw 7% when properly adjusted about stud 698 to the left in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 3A, until the shank portion of screw 7% is arrested by a stop pin [64 projecting upwardly from flange 696. The free end of screw 700 then projects beyond the rear edge of table 342 and the latter during its rearward movement by cam 4-34 is arrested when the free end of screw 7% engages the edge of stop lug 7116 (Figs. 1 and 3A). With a diiferent setting of set screw 700, proper, the relative distance between the folded edge position of material M and needle 96 and the desired point on material M through which needle 96 passes, can be adjusted to a very fine degree.

The invention above described may be varied in construction within the scope of the claims, for the particular device, selected to illustrate the invention, is but one of many possible concrete embodiments of the same. It is not, therefore, to be restricted to the precise details of the structure shown and described.

What we claim is:

l. A button sewing machine comprising a work supporting table, a button holding member, a device for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth through holes in said button and said work, means for holding material to which a button is to be sewed on said table, mechanism for moving said table in a substantially four motion path of travel relative to said needle for positioning selected holes in said button in alignment with said needle, means for positioning said button holding member and a button held therein above said work and in a plane substantially parallel to the work during the op eration of sewing a button to said work, means for locating said button holding member and said button in a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said work after said button has been sewed to said work while maintaining said work substantially undisturbed on said table, means operative while said button is held by said button holding member in said plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said work for moving said needle up along one side and down along the opposite side of the loops of thread attaching said button to said work to form a plurality of continuous encircling loops for moving said table in a substantially figure eight path of travel relative to said needle and positioning selected holes in said button in alignment with said needle, means for positioning said button holding member and. a button held therein in a plane substantially parallel tothe work during the operation of sewing a button to said Work,

means for moving said button holding member and said button into a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said work after said button has been sewed to said work, and means operative while said button is held by said button holding member in said plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said work for moving said needle up along one side and down along the opposite side of the loops of thread attaching said button to said work to wind a plurality of continuous post forming loops about said loops of thread attaching said button to said material and form a post or shank encircling said loops attaching said button to said work.

3. A button sewing machine comprising a movable Work supporting table, a button holding member mounted on said table and movable therewith, means on said table for supporting material to which a button is to be sewed, means for positioning said button holding member with a button therein above said material and in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of said material, means for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth through selected holes in said button and said work to attach said button to said work, means for moving said button holding member into a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said work, and means for moving said table back and forth in different spaced paths of movement relative to said needle whereby said needle winds a plurality of thread continuous windings about opposite sides of the thread attaching said button to said material.

4. In a sewing machine having a materialwork support table, a device for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth and completely through selected button holes and work on said table to secure a button thereto, a button support mounted on said work table, means positioning said button support and a button held therein in a plane substantially parallel to said work on said table and spaced therefrom, means for moving said support and said work in a predetermined path in aplane substantially at right angles to the path of movement of said needle to travel said needle and thread back and forth and completely through ditterent selected holes in said button and said work, and completely through selected holes only of said button on each movement of said needle to sew said button to said work.

5. A button sewing machine comprising a work supporting table, a button holding member mounted on said table, said button holder including a pair of opposed jaws, and means holding said jaws in resilient clamping engagement with the periphery of a button, means on said table for supporting material to which a button is to be sewed, means for positioning said button holding jaws of said member with a button held therein above said material and in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of said material with selected holes 7 movement of said needle and through one of said secondnamed selected holes only on the next movement of said needle in the opposite direction to attach said button tosaid work, means for moving said button holding member intov a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said work, and means for moving said table back and forth relative to said needle whereby said needle and thread produce a plurality of thread wind ings encircling the thread attaching said button to said material.

6. A button sewing machine for sewing buttons to material in a manner simulating hand sewing, compris ing a work support table, an upper and a lower needle bar located on opposite sides of said table and adapted to alternately project a needle having a thread with a loose end back and forth through selected holes in a button, a thread puller operating in timed relation with said bars for pulling the loose end of said thread through said work and button, means for operatingsaid thread puller, a button holder mounted on said table, mechanism for efiecting relative movement between said table and said needle in planes substantially at'ri ght angles to each other to dispose said work and button held in said button holder in the path of travel of said needle, mechanism for operating said bars to pass said needle in one direction completely through a selected hole in said button and said work, and in the opposite direction through a selected hole in said button only, whereby said button is attached to said work by a single continuous thread forming a plurality of continuous closed loops, and means operative while said work is on said support table for moving said needle and thread back and forth and round said loops to secure said loops of thread against loosening.

7. A button sewing machine for sewing buttons to material in a manner simulating hand sewing, comprising a work support table, an upper and a lower needle bar located on opposite sides of said support and adapted to alternately project a needle having a thread with a loose end back and forth through selected holes in a button, a thread puller operating in timed relation with said bars for pulling the loose end of said thread through said workrand button, a button holder mounted on said table, mechanism for moving said table in timed relation with each movement of said needle to dispose said work and button held in said button holder in the path of travel of said needle, mechanism for operating said bars and thread puller in timed relation with the movement of said table and button holder to pass said needle in one direction completely through a selected hole in said button and said work, and in the opposite direction through a selected hole in said button only, whereby said button is attached to said work by a single continuous thread forming a plurality of continuous closed loops.

'8 A button sewing machine comprising a work supporting table adapted to support work having a folded edge to which a button is to be attached, a button support, mechanism for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth through the holes of a button having four button holes, means for locating said button support and a button held therein with two of the button holes located above the folded edge of work held on said table and two button holes located beyond said folded edge of said work, means for moving said table in aclosed path of travel relative to the path of movement of said needle in timed relation with each movement of said needle, and means for operating said mechanism simultaneously with the movement of said table.

to form a plurality of continuous loops of thread passing through said first-name button holes and said folded edge of said work and through the other button holes only of said button whereby to stitch a button to said work.

9. The machine defined in claim 7 including means for moving said button holder and wherein said mechanism for operating said upper and lower needle bars includes means for moving said upper needle bar between a lower limit of mover-tent and an upper limit of movement, and means for moving said upper needle bar beyond said upper limit of movement to support said upper needle bar clear of the path of movement of said button holder prior to the operation of said button holder moving means for moving said button holder to and from substantially vertical button supporting position.

10. A button sewing machine for sewing buttons to material in a manner simulating hand sewing, comprising a work support table, an upper and a lower needle bar located on opposite sides of said support and adapted to alternately project a double pointed needle and a thread with a loose end, back and forth through selected holes in a button, a thread puller operating in timed relation with said bars for pulling the loose end of said thread through said work and button, a button holder mounted on said table, a looper mounted above said table, mechanism for moving said table to dispose said work and button held in said button holder in the path of travel of said needle, mechanism for operating said bars and thread puller in timed relation with the movement of said table and button holder to pass said needle in one direction completely through a selected hole in said button and said work, and in the opposite direction through a selected hole in said button only, whereby said button is attached to said work by a single continuous thread forming a plurality of continuous closed loops, means for turning said button holder to move said button along said loops of thread attaching said button to said work and locate said button in a plane substantially at ri ht angles to the plane of said work on said table.

11. The machine defined in claim wherein said mechanism for moving said table includes means for reciprocating said table in a straight line of movement relative to said needle and alternately locating opposite sides of said loops of thread attaching said button to said work in the path of travel of said needle, whereby said needle winds a plurality of windings about said loops of thread attaching said button to said work.

12. The machine defined in claim 11 including means for moving said looper at one rate of speed to engage loop portions of said thread above said work during the stitching of said button to said work, and means for moving said looper at an increased rate of speed to engage said loops when said needle is winding said thread about said loops of thread attaching said button to said work.

13. A button sewing machine for sewing buttons to work in a manner simulating hand sewing, comprising a work support table, an upper and a lower needle bar located on opposite sides of said table and adapted to alternately project a needle, having a sharp end and a blunt end, threaded with a thread with a loose end back and forth through selected holes in a button, a thread puller operating in timed relation with said bars for pulling the loose end of said thread through said work and button, a button holder mounted on said table, mechanism for moving said table and button'holder in timed relation with each movement of said needle to dispose said work and button held in said button holder in the path of travel of said needle, mechanism for operating said bars and thread puller in timed relation with the movement of said table and button holder to pass said sharp end of said needle in one direction completely through a selected hole in said button and said work, and the blunt end of said needle in the opposite direction through a difierent selected hole only in said button, whereby said button is attached to said work by a single continuous thread forming a plurality of continuous closed loops.

14. A button sewing machine comprising means for supporting an article to which a button is to be sewed for movement into and out of the path of travel 'of a needle, a device for holding a button above said article, means for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth through the holes in said button to attach said button to said article, means for moving said device while said article remains substantially undisturbed on said supporting means to locate said button in a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said article, and means operative while said button is held in said last-named plane by said device for locating the sides of the loops of thread connecting said button to said article alternately in the path of movement of said needle, said needle moving up and down on alternate movements along opposite sides of said loops of thread and thereby winding a plurality of continuous post forming loops of thread about said first-named loops and forming a thread post supporting said button away from said article.

15. A button sewing machine comprising a work table, a gauge plate on said table for supporting an article with an edge folded thereover and supported on said gauge plate for movement into and out of the path of travel of a needle, means for supporting a button with half of its holes above said folded edge of said article, means for moving said table in a closed substantially figure eight path of movement, means operative substantially simultaneously with the movement of said table to pass said needle and a thread back and forth through said article and selected holes in said button, means operative in response to the formation of a plurality of loops of thread connecting said button to said article for positioning said button in a plane substantially at right angles to the path of travel of said table, means for controlling the movement of said table relative to said needle to wind a plurality of turns of thread about said loops of thread connecting said button to said article, and means for locking said turns of thread against unwinding.

16. A button sewing machine for sewing buttons to material in a manner simulating hand sewing, comprising a work support table, an upper and a lower needle bar located on opposite sides of said support and adapted to alternately project a needle, having a sharp end and a blunt, end, threaded with a thread with a loose end back and forth through selected holes in a button, a thread puller operating in timed relation with said bars for pulling the loose end of said thread through said work and button, a button holder mounted on said table, mechanism including cam means for moving said table and button holder in a closed substantially figure 8 path of travel to dispose said work and button held in said button holder in the path of travel of said needle, mech anism for operating said bars and thread puller in timed relation with the movement of said table and button holder to pass said sharp end of said needle in one direction completely through a selected hole in said button and said work, and the blunt end of said needle in the opposite direction through a diiierent selected hole only in said button, whereby said button is attached to said work by a single continuous thread forming a plurality of continuous closed loops of thread extending unbroken through all of said button holes.

17. A button sewing machine comprising means for supporting an article to which a button is to be sewed for movement into and out of the path of travel of a needle, a device for holding a button above said work, means for projecting a needle and a thread back and forth through the holes in said button to attach said button to said article, means for moving said device to locate said button in a plane substantially at right angles to the plane of said article, mechanism including a cam, operative while said button is held in said last-named plane by said device for locating opposite sides of the loops of thread connecting said button to said article alternately in the path of movement of said needle, said needle thereby winding a plurality of continuous loops

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