US2685089A - Coat vent construction - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 3, 1954 G. RAND ETAL COAT VENT CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Sept. 15, 1953 rbk law 3, 1954 e. RAND ETAL COAT VENT CONSTRUCTION 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Sept. 15, 1953 3, 1954 e. RAND ETAL COAT VENT CONSTRUCTION S Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Sept. 15, 1953 I r I i I C i I l 5 Z I F H i U 3 I t i r. I i I i .a V: I

Patented Aug. 3, 1954 2,685,089 COAT VENT CONSTRUCTION Gustave Rand, Brooklyn, and Isaac M. Myers, New York, N. Y., assignors t Meilman & Maged, Inc., a corporation of New York Application September 15, 1953, Serial No. 380,282

2 Claims.

This invention relates generally to clothing, and more particularly to garments having a free bottom edge from which a cut or indentation extends, commonly referred to as a vent.

It is known to provide such vents extending from the bottom edges of the jackets, coats, skirts and the like, but these have been constructed so that they extend from a seam joining two garment parts, thus at the back of a coat, the seam joining two back panels extended upwardly from the apex of the indentation. Similarly, Where a jacket is side vented, the upper apices of the vents meet the seams joining the rear and side garment panels thereabove.

In certain garment constructions it is desirable to use a unitary panel of material, and on such garments it has been customary to use no vents or side vents. Center vents have not been provided because when the lower edge of the rear panel is severed, in order to avoid raw edges of the fabric, the two raw edges require additional facings which normally lie inwardly of the garment. This requires a folding and concealment of material at the edges which produces a substantial space between the two then free edges forming the vent. Such a vent is unacceptable and does not meet recognized tailoring standards and which require that when the garment is in a normally worn and normally unstressed condition, that there be an overlap, so that the next underlying garment is not visible therethrough.

It is therefore among the principal objects of the present invention to provide a novel and useful vent construction, which although disposed in a unitary panel, does provide a substantial overlap and concealment of seams, so that the general utility and appearance of a regular vent made in a two-piece panel, is provided.

Another object herein lies in the'pr'o'vision oi vent construction, which by virtue of its simplicity, may be manufactured in large scale at low cost so as to have a consequent wide distribution and use.

A feature of the invention resides in the fact that manufacturing economies obtained by the use of a unitary panel are retained, while at the same time a vent substantially equal to a regular vent, is provided.

These objects and other incidental ends and advantages will more fully appear in the progress of this disclosure and be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings in which similar'reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Figure 1 is a front view in perspective showing an embodiment of the invention.

Figure 2 is a rear perspective view.

Figure 3 is a plan view showing a first stage in the present method.

Figure 4 is a fragmentary elevational view showing a following stage as seen from the coat inner surface.

Figure 5 is a fragmentary horizontal sectional view as seen from the plane 5-5 on Figure 4.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary sectional view as seen from the plane 3-4: on Figure 4.

Figure '7 is a fragmentary elevational view asviewed from the outer surface of 'the garment Figure 13 is a fragmentary elevational view as seen from the outer surface of thegarment (rearwardly of Fig. 11) 3 1 Figure 14 is a fragmentary horizontal sectional View as seen from the plane +1.4 on Figure 13. Figure 15 is a fragmentary horizontalsec'tional View as seen frorn the plane l5-i5 on Figure l4". y

Figure 16 is a fragmentary elevational. view, corresponding generally to. Figure '11, and fshowing an ensuing stage in construction? Figure 17 is a fragmentary horizonta I view as seen from the plane lI- "-I7 onFigure 16.

Figure 18 is a fragmentary elevational view as seen from the inside of the garment, corresponding generally to Figure 16, and showing another stage in construction.

Figure 19 is a fragmentary elevational view corresponding to Figure 18 and showing a later stage in construction.

Figure 20 is a fragmentary horizontal sectional view as seen from the plane 20-20 on Figure 19.

Figure 21 is a fragmentary elevational view, corresponding generally to Figure 19, with the bottom hem turned up.

In accordance with the invention, by means of a suitable pattern not shown, the material preferably of a knitted or woven textile, generally indicated by reference character 20, is out along the l sectional dash-double-dot line to produce the coat rear panel 22, and similarly, there may be cut from the material 25, two inner facings 23 and 24. The dash-double-dot lines on Figure 3 show the pattern outline and the lines along which the fabric is cut, and it will be understood that the blanks as removed from the material 25, will have the same outline. In addition, the main vent cut or slit 25 extends inwardly from the lower edge 25, which is downwardly curved, so that when the coat is worn, it becomes level. The cut or slit 25 extends upwardly in the finished garment from the edge 25 to its upper end 2'3, which is disposed preferably a short distance above the upper extremity of the juncture 28 of the two finished free edges 29 and 30 of the completed vent 3 I.

After cutting, the lower edge 26 at its outer ends meets the side edges 33 and 35. As seen in Figure 3, the inner surface of the dicated by reference character 35, and the outer surface by reference character 35.

Turning to Figures 4, and 6, the next step in the present method preferably involves the joining to the raw vent edge 51 of the edge 38 of the inner facing 24 by a row of stitches 39, and similarly, the raw vent edge 50 to the edge 4! of the inner facing by a row of stitches 52. The rows of stitches 35 and 52 at their lower ends preferably extend to the edge 26, and at their upper ends 43 and 54 preferably terminate at the same level as the upper end 2? of the out or slit 25.

Since the edge 55 of the facing 24 will be exposed in the finished garment, it may be provided with a binding 55 (Figure 16) preferably prior to its attachment to the panel 22, or it may be placed on said edge later in the manufacture of the garment. It is desirable that a minimum of the material of which the garment is composed be disposed laterally outward of the rows of stitches 39 and 52, as they appear in Figure 5, so that a maximum of material 25 will be available to close the finished vent 3 I. In order to assure precise pressing with the row of stitching 39 as close to the edge as possible, the parts may be temporarily bested (not shown), as is well known in this art.

The coat rear panel 22 is next preferably reversed from the position shown in Figures 4 to 6,

and placed upon a working surface (not shown) with the outer surface of the material forwardly or upwardly. This is seen in Figure 7. Here, the facing 24 will be in a left-hand position as viewed in Figure 1.

From the position shown in Figure '7, the then left portion is brought forwardly or upwardly and to the right in the direction of the arrow 53, so that a temporary fold 55 is formed with the edge 35 displaced a slight distance to the right (as viewed in Figure 8) of the edge 25. This distance between the edges 38 and 29 is shown enlarged in Figure 10, and may be referred to as the overlap distance 50. It is this distance which affects the overlap in the finally manufactured vent, and effects concealment of the seam formed by the row of stitches as (Figure 13). While it is desirable to have a substantial distance between the edges 35 and 25, the material 25 disposed at the upper end 21, and in the immediate vicinity thereabove, has to be contracted in order to avoid an unsightly pucker. The distance 56 therefor is affected by the contractibility or compressibility of the material 20. Softer or more loosely woven materials may therefore be coordinated material is inwith a greater distance 55, while hard finished or closely woven materials require a lesser distance 50. We have found that a satisfactory distance ranges between inch and inch.

With the parts in the displaced position shown in Figures 8, 9 and 10, the overlap fixing stitches 5| are placed in a row, the upper end 52 of which terminates in the fold 49 and the lower end 53 terminates slightly below the upper end 21 of the cut 25. This forms the tuck 64. It will thus be seen that the stitches 5| are slightly diagonally arranged, the angularity of the row being determined by the distance 59, and by the length of said row of stitches 5|. The length of the row is not critical, and is preferably between inch and inch.

Turning now to Figure 11, the fold 49 has been opened by movement of the portion 41 in a direction opposite to that of the arrow 48, and the panel 22 has been reversed so that the parts occupy the position they had in Figure 4. In Figure 11 it will be noted that the edges 55 of the facing 23 has secured thereto a lining element 56 which is preferably composed of satin or the like. The lining element 56 is secured upon the unexposed surface of the inner facing 23, as viewed in Figure 11, by a row of stitches 51, and opposed portions 58 and 59 of the upper edge of the element 56 are joined by stitches to to produce the closed top of the triangular configuration shown in Figure 11. The inner facing 23, if it is not already overlapping the facing 24, is brought over the latter and the upper portions of the inner facings 23 and 24 are joined by the interconnecting stitches 61.

The area 62 on Figure 11 lies above the end 52 of the stitches 5| (said stitches not being seen in Figure 11) and at this stage of the process is full and forms a protuberance or pucker. This pucker is seen in Figures 13 and 14. The tuck 64 is seen in Figure 15.

In the next step of the present method, the pucker 63 is flattened and maintained in a substantially planar position by a retainer element 65. The retainer element is preferably composed of a flexible material which has a low degree of resiliency and stretchability. We have found a tightly woven textile fabric to be suitable for this purpose, and the retainer element is preferably secured to the material 28 on the inner surface 35 thereof by a suitable adhesive 61. This entire pucker reducing operation may be performed in the presence of heat and pressure as by ironing on a piece of mending tape. The adhesive 61 is preferably heat controlled and may be composed of thermoplastic or thermo-setting materials, as for example, gutta percha, or heat affected synthetic resins, including cellulose acetate, or vinyl copolymer. Other adhesives known in the tailoring trade may be used. The size and shape of the retainer element 65 should be sufiicient to cover the area which forms the pucker 63 and should not be so large as to be exposed beyond the edges of the lining element 56.

Turning to Fig. 18, the inner facing positioning stitches 68 are installed. These stitches are preferably placed at an angle (see Figure 2), and at the upper end 69, meet the upper end 52 of the stitches 5!. The stitches 68 at the lower end 15 preferably terminate at a height substantially equal to the lower end 53 of the stitches 5|. The stitches 58 tend to maintain the inner facing 23 in a substantially coplanar position with respect to the panel 22.

Turning to Figure 19, the lining element 56 is folded to the left (with respect to Figure 18) about the edge 55 as a pivot, and secured in place by a row of blind stitches 12.

Turning to Figure 21, the bottom edge 26 is provided with a binding 73 and folded inwardly and upwardly about the fold M, which forms the bottom free edge of the garment l9 and particularly the coat rear panel 22. The edge 26 and the binding 13 may be secured in any suitable manner well known in the art as by concealed stitches not shown.

It may thus be seen that we have provided a novel and useful coat vent construction which affords all of the utility of known vent constructions, but which is combined with a garment having a planar or unitary piece of fabric. Our vent construction may be utilized on various types of garment portions where it is desired to have an opening which extends from the unitary or unseamed fabric panel.

We claim:

1. Coat vent construction comprising: a unitary garment panel having inner and outer surfaces, and having a free edge and a slit extending from said free edge; a first edge of said slit being folded to provide a finished edge; a facing strip joined by an inwardly disposed seam to said garment panel, bordering a second edge of said slit and extending laterally in a direction toward said first edge of said slit, and lying in abutting relationship substantially in the plane of that portion of said garment panel adjacent said second edge; a tapered tuck adjustment the closed end of said slit and maintained in predetermined size and shape by stitch means disposed substantially parallel to the axis of said slit and extending substantially the length of said tuck; the widest portion of said tuck being of a width sufiicient shape by stitch means to cause said finished edge to overlie said facing strip and seam, the predetermined shape and location of said tuck maintaining said finished edge in substantially parallel relationship with respect to said seam.

2. Coat vent construction comprising: a unitary garment panel having inner and outer surfaces, and having a free edge and a slit extending from said free edge; a first edge of said slit being folded to provide a finished edge; a facing strip joined by an inwardly disposed seam to said garment panel, bordering a second edge of said slit and extending laterally in a direction toward said first edge of said slit, and lying in abutting relationship substantially in the plane of that portion of said garment panel adjacent said second edge; a tapered tuck adjacent the closed end of said slit and maintained in predetermined size and disposed substantially parallel to the axis of said slit and extending substantially the length of said tuck; the widest portion of said tuck being of a width suflicient to cause said finished edge to overlie said facing strip and seam, the predetermined shape and location of said tuck maintaining said finished edge in substantially parallel relationship with respect to said seam; and means including a patch adhesively secured to the inner surface of said garment panel for maintaining that portion of the same adjacent the narrow end of said tuck in substantially planar condition.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS

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