US2587491A - Collar assembly for shirts - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 26, 1952 J. w. LESS 2,587,493

COLLAR ASSEMBLY FOR sam'rs Filed March 28, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet l k INVENTOR 9 8 JOSEPH w. LESS,

ATTORNEiE Feb. 26, 1952 J. W. was 2,587,491

COLLAR ASSEMBLY FOR SHIRTS Filed March 28, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 L w INVENTOR FIG b JOSEPH w. LESS,

ATTORNEY Feb. 26, 1952 J. w. LESS COLLAR ASSEMBLY FOR SHIRTS 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 Filed March 28-, 1950 INYENTOR JOSEPH W. LESS,

)4 i z z y ATTORNEYS Feb. 26, 1952 J, w, LESS 2,587,491

COLLAR ASSEMBLY FOR SHIRTS Filed March 28, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR JOSEPH w. LESS BY I $2144 5.

ATTORNEYS Patented Feb. 26, 1952' UNITED STATES ATENT OFFICE COLLAR ASSEMBLY FOR SHIRTS Joseph W. Less, Clinton, Iowa Application March 28, 1950, Serial No. 152,348

12 Claims. (Cl. 2--132) 1 This invention relates to shirt collars and particularly to a shirt collar assembly including novel means for supporting, stiifening and shaping the collar wings.

In order to position the wings of shirt collars, it is now common practice to employ various detachable mechanical clips and pins which are often difiicult to apply to the collar, tend to become disengaged accidentally during wearing, and are frequently visible when used. The present invention is applicable to turn-down collars generally, and provides in association with such collars novel elements which, though completely hidden by the collar, perform the functions of the objectionable mechanical devices heretofore used.

For purposes of clarity, the term collar wing will be used hereinafter to refer to that portion of the end of a turn-over collar which constitutes a scalene triangle, the base lying on the fold line of the collar assembly, the shorter side constituting the collar end, and the longer side extending from the apex of the collar point to the base, the size of the angle at the apex of the triangle being determined by the shape of the collar Wing point. Though it may seem that this is an arbitrary definition, it will be obvious that it is this portion of each end of the collar band which tends to become misshapen when turnover collars are worn.

The invention is directed particularly to a collar assembly comprising a neck band, a turn-over collar band terminating at each end in a wing of the type just described and joining the upper edge of the neck band along a fold line, and a novel supporting and shaping element positioned beneath each wing of the collar. Each supporting and shaping element includes a body portion in the shape of a scalene triangle, the body portion being secured at its base to the neck band. Each supporting and shapin element further includes an extension directed rearwardly along the neckband from the longer side of the triangular body portion, the extension being directed at such an angle that it extends across the fold line between the neck band and collar band when the collar assembly is unfolded. When the collar band is folded down and the supporting and shaping elements thus lie between the collar band and neck band, the extensions on each of said elements must be slightly displaced angularly to lie beneath the fold line between the collar band and the neck band. It will be seen from the more detailed discussion that follows that this slight pivoting of the extensions, coupled with the curving of the extensions along the neck band when the collar is buttoned about the neck of the wearer, causes the supporting and shaping elements to assume a convex shape, which shape is imparted to the collar wings overlying the supporting and shaping elements.

Though the invention operates with particular efficiency when employed with a turn-down collar worn with a necktie, the invention also serves to improve the appearance of such a collar when worn open without a necktie.

In order that the invention may be more readily understood in detail, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification, and wherein:

Fig. l is a plan view of a portion of a collar assembly including a collar wing supporting and shaping element in accordance with the invention, the collar assembly being illustrated as unfolded to lie substantially in a single plane;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a complete collar assembly of the type shown in Fig. 1, the collar wing supporting and shaping elements being shown in dotted lines;

Fig. 3 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line 3--3, Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic View of the collar Wing supporting and shaping element shown in Fig. 1, illustrating the relative positions of the supporting and shaping element, its rearwardly directed extension, and the fold line of the collar assemly;

Fig. 4a is a diagrammatic view similar to Fig. 4 but showing a modified form of extension for the collar wing supporting and shaping element;

Fig. 4b is a diagrammatic view similar to Fig. 4, but'showing a second modified form of extension;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view illustrating the shape assumed by the collar wing supportingand shaping element when the collar assembly is buttoned about the neck of the wearer;

Fig. 6 is a plan view similar to Fig. 1, but showing a modified form of collar wing supporting and shaping element secured to the neck band of the collar assembly by separable snap features;

Fig. 7 is a vertical section taken on. the line 1-1, Fig. 6, with the snap fastener elements spaced slightly apart;

Fig. 8 is a plan view similar to Fig. 1, illustrating one manner in which the point of the collar wing supporting and shaping element may be secured to the collar wing;

Fig. 9 is a plan view similar to Fig. 1, illustrating a further modification of the invention; .and

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a complete collar assembly of the type shown in Fig. 9, the

collar being shown in the position assumed when worn open at the neck, a portion of the collar band being shown as broken away to illustrate the position of various elements of the invention.

Referring now to the drawings, and first to Fig. 1 thereof, it will be seen that the collar assembly here shown includes a neckband I joined along a fold line 2 to a turn-down collar band 3. The collar band 3 terminatesat each end in a pointedwing 4, only the right end of the collar assembly being shown. Positioned adjacent the under side of the collar wing 4 is a supporting and shaping element 5 which, as will be more fully discussed hereinafter with reference to Fig.

4, is generally triangular in shape and somewhat smaller than the collar wing 4.

The element 5 is secured at 6in anysuitable manner to the neck band I, so that the base of the triangle of the element 5 is anchored at a point either coinciding with or closely adjacent tothe fold line 2. In this embodiment of theinvention, in which the wing supporting and shaping'elements are adapted to be secured in placewhen the collar assembly is manufactured, I have shown the element 5 as including a tab l'which, as is shown more clearly in Fig.3, is secured between the two fabric plies which constitute the neck band I, and it will be understood that the tab 1 may be locked in place by stitching or by being otherwise secured to th'e'two fabric plies of the neck band. It will benoted that the normal shape of the element 5"is such that, with its base anchored at 6 to the neckband, the apex 8 of the element is offset slightly toward the'center of the collar from the apex!) of the collar wing 4.

The element 5 also includes 'an extension [6 directed toward the center of the collar at an angle to the fold line 2 such that, when the collar assembly is unfolded as shown, the extension it] lies across the fold line 2. In the present embodiment, the extension I is shown as.being.generallyrectangul'ar. But, the extension may be of a different shape, so long as its length, and the angle at which it is disposed "relative to 'the 'fold line 2, are such that the extension'lies across the fold line 2 when the collaris unfolded.

The collar wing supporting and shaping element '5, including its extension In, is fabricated from a material which, though flexible, is pref- 'erably 'stifier than the material of the collar bandit. 'The main body of the element and its extension are preferably fabricated as .an integral unit from a single sheet of such material.

Referring now to Fig. 4, it will be seen that the collar wing supporting and shaping element provided-by the invention'may be described as comprising a main body portion whichhas the general form of a scalene triangle defined by "base 14, a shorter side corresponding to the end-of the collar band, and a longer side I6 extending across the collar band and joining the shorter side [5 at the apex 8. It will be noted that the triangular body portion of the collar wing supporting and shaping element is somewhat smaller than the scale triangle of the collar "wing as hereinbefore defined. The extension) slants from the long side [6 of the triangle toward and across the fold line of the collar assembly. Since the base M of the body .portion of the element substantially coincides with the fold line of-the collar assembly, it will be notedthat the extension. H! may also be said to extend beyond the base line of thetriangular 4 body portion. It will also be noted that the longitudinal center line of the extension I!) intersects the longer side H5 at the point X and defines with the longer side [6 an acute angle a. When the collar band is folded down against the outside of the neck band, the extension Ill must be angularly displaced to bring the extension beneath the fold line. Since the main body of the element 5 is anchored along its base M to the neck band I, such displacement of the extension It] tends to force the side l6 of triangular portion of element 5 toward the end of the collar, shifting the apex 8 into line with -the apex-ofthecollar wing. Pressure applied to the body, portion of the element 5 by pivotal displacement of the extension Ii) tends to distort the-body portion out of its normal fiat plane, since it is anchored to the neck band at the base 1'4. If the element 5 and its extension H? are in a single plane at the time of pivotal displacement of the extension It, the resulting compression may distort the supporting and shaping-element'into'either a convex or a concave form. But whenthe collar is being worn, the extension-I 9 is held between the collar band and'the neck band, and therefore follows the curve of the neck "band rearwardly along the wearers neck. Curving of the extension l9 along the neck of the-wearer causes the generally triangular body portion of the element to assume a convex shape, instead of a concave shape, under the compression applied to that portion by the pivotal displacement of the extension [0 relative to the fold line 2. By stating that the body portion of the element assumes a convex 'form, I mean that it bulges outwardly from the neck band. It will be noted'that the extensions it], as more clearly seen in Fig. 2, terminate at the side of the neck .of the wearer when .the collar assembly is worn. If the extensions .H] are made too "long, and extend beyond'the sideo'f the neck, approaching the back of the'collar, downwar'ddisplacement of the extension will result only in lateral distortion of the extensionsthems'elves, and will not result in compression of the body portions of the collar wing supporting and shaping element.

Thus, for the collar wing supportingand shaping element to assume a convex shape when the collar assemblyis'buttonedabout the wearer's .neck, it..is necessary that the generally triangujlar 'body portion of .that element be anchored substantially-at its base, that .the extension l0 lie at an, angle .to and vvextend somewhat across the fold line 2 of the collar assembly when the collar .is unfolded, and that the extension l0 'be sosituated as .to conformto the curve of theneckband whenjthe collar assembly is worn. I do not wish to infer that the specific shape and arrangement of the extension shown in Fig. 4..must be adheredto. As shown in Fig. 4a, the invention may include a generally triangular body portion 5 .,and an extension [6 which joins the-longer side of the triangular portion 5 at a point substantially above the base 14". Furthenasshown in Fig. 4b, the extension 18 may be sufiiciently wide that the entire long side of the triangular portion 5 is joined to the extension. The particular shape chosen will depend mainly upon the stiffness of the material employed.

.Fig. 5-illustrates the-shape assumed by the col- .lar wing supporting .and shaping element when thefcollarassembly just described is worn. Here,

it will be seen that the main body of the element 5 is distorted into convex shape and lies beneath and in substantial alignment with the collar wing 4. The extension I is maintained in displaced position, causing the distortion of the main body of the element 5, because the side 1 of the. extension bears against the fold line 2. It will also be seen that, in this position, the extension I0 follows the curve of the neck band, being held thereagainst by the turned down collar band 3. The base I I of the generally triangular collar wing supporting and shaping element is preferably coincident with a sharp fold line in the relatively stiff material of that element. This fold is preferably made to define a dihedral angle more oblique than the angle between the collar band 3 and the neck band I when the collar is worn, so that the element 5 presses outwardly against the wing of the collar. Also, the distorting effect produced by displacement of the extension I0 when the collar is turned down tend to force the supporting and shaping element into engagement with the under side of the collar wing, and the convex shape of the element 5 is therefore imparted to the collar wing.

As has been stated with reference to Fig. 3, the neck band I may be fabricated from two separate plies of fabric, and the tab 1 of the element 5 may then be inserted between the two plies of the neck band and there secured by any suitable means to anchor the base of the element 5. The same result may be obtained by theuse of oneor more snap fasteners, as is shown in Figs. 6 and '1. Here, a modified form of collar wing supporting and shaping element is shown comprising a generally triangular main body having a base 2I constituting a fold line or crease between the main body 20 and a securing tab 22. The securing tab 22 i provided with snap fastener elements 23 and 24 arranged to engage matching elements secured to the outer surface of the neck band I, as is illustrated in Fig. 7. The collar wing supporting and shaping element also includes an extension 25, Fig. 6, which is generally lobe shaped and slants rearwardly from the main body 5, extending across the fold line 2 between the neck band and the collar band when the collar assembly is unfolded. The two snap fasteners serve to anchor the base of the collar wing supporting and shaping element to the neck band I along the base of the main body 20. When the collar assembly is to be worn, the collar 3 is turned down and the extension 25 is simultaneously displaced until the lower portion 20 thereof engages the fold line 2. Th effect of displacement of the extension 25 is the same as previously described with reference to Figs. 1-5. Whether the snap fasteners illustrated in Figs. 6-7 are used, in place of a permanent means for attaching the collar wing supporting and shaping element, will depend upon whether it is desirable, because of the nature of the material chosen for that element, to remove the element before laundering the collar assembly. It will be obvious that a single snap fastener may be used, since the length of the base of element 20, which bears against the fold line 2, is sufficient toeprevent pivoting of the element.

When the collar band 3 is of a particularly soft material, it may be desirable to secure the shaping and supporting element, near it apex, to the under surface of the collar Wing. Qne means for accomplisihng this result is illustrated in Fig. 8, where a collar Wing supporting and shaping element generally similar to the element 5, Fig. l, is shown, the base of the main body of the element 35 being anchored to the neck band by a tab 31 in the manner previously described with reference to Fig. 3. The element 35 include an extension 40 which, as in the case of extension I0, Fig. 1, lies across the fold line 2 when the collar assembly is unfolded, and is adapted for displacement about the point Y to distort the main body of the element 35 into convex form. The main body of the element 35 is provided with a slit 08 extending from the region of the apex of the element 35 at a slight angle to the center line 49 of the collar wing 4. A button 50 is attached to the under surface of the collar wing 4 and is inserted through the slit 48, as illustrated, thus securing the element 35, in the general region of its apex, to the .under surface of the collar wing. The slit 48 is preferably located at the angle shown to accommodate the slight movement of the apex of the element 35 resulting when the extension 40 is displaced to bring the edge 01 thereof into abutment with the fold line 2.

In Fig. 9 there is shown a further embodiment of the invention which not only serves to support and shape the wings of a collar when worn buttoned at the neck, but also functions to better position the collar wings when the collar is Worn unbuttoned. As shown in Fig. 9, this embodiment of the invention is again applied to a turndown collar comprising a neck band IOI, the upper'edge of which is joined along the fold line I02 to a collar band I03 terminating at each end in a wing I04. Thi embodiment of the invention embraces a wing supporting and shaping unit comprising an elongated, gene-rally rectangular attaching member I01, a wing supporting and shaping element I05 and a distorting extension H0.

The attaching or anchoring member I01, the element I05 and the'extension IIO are formed as an integral unit from a single piece of flexible sheet material which is relatively stiffer than the material ofthe collar band I03. The wing supporting and shaping element I05 is generally in the form of a scalene triangle, the base I00 of which constitutes a fold line between the ele ment I05 and the member I01..

The extension H0, which serves the purpose of imparting a convex shape to the element I05 when the assembly is worn, is formed integrally with the element I05, extending from the longer side thereof to terminate beyond the fold line I00 and within the limits of the elongated attaching member I01. Thus, a portion of the extension H0 is actually out from the material of the member I01 and, though this portion of the extension will lie within the limits ofthe member I01 when the unit is unfolded to lie fiat, the extension is free for lateral displacement from the member I01 when the unit is folded about the fold line I 06.

The member I01 is attached to the neck band I M by means of a separable fastener element III, which may, for example, be eitherthe male or female member of a conventional snap fastener. Secured to the member I01 by the separable fastener element III is a stiffening member IIZ provided to prevent the material of the member I01 from breaking down with repeated use. The stiffener II2, which may be of a.suitable material such as cellulose acetate sheeting or other sheet material substantially stiffer than the member I01, is preferably relatively narrow and extends transversely of the member I01, terminating short of the fold line I06. The stiffensupporting and shaping element and said anchoring member being closely spaced below the fold line between said collar band and neck band and extending parallel therewith, and said supporting element'having its apex displaced rearwardly from the apex of the corresponding collar wing when said collar assembly is unfolded tolie fiat.

6. A shirt collar assembly comprising a neck band, a collar band joined to the upper edge of said neck band along a fold line, said collar band terminating at each end in a pointed wing, and a pair of flexible collar wing supporting and shaping elements adapted to underlie the wings of said collar band when the collar assembly is worn. each wing supporting and shaping element including a body portion in the form of a scalene triangle smaller than the corresponding collar wing and secured to said neck band at the base of the triangle, each wing supporting and shaping element also including an extension formed integrally with said body portion an from the long side of the triangle tl I of rearwardly across the fold line between 'theneck band and collar band when the collar. assembly is unfolded by being free to move relative to said collar assembly, whereby each extension can be displaced downwardly to lie against the collar fold line when the collar assembly is worn, said extensions terminating at the side of the neck of the wearer when said collar assembly is worn.

7. A shirt collar assembly comprising a neck band, a collar band joining the upper edge of said neck band along a fold line, said collar band terminating at each end in a pointed wing, and a pair of flexible collar wing supporting and shaping. elements adapted to underlie the wings of said collar band when the collar assembly is worn, each wing supporting and shaping element including a body portion in the form of a scalene triangle smaller than the corresponding collar wing and secured to said collar assembly along substantially the entire base of the triangle, each wing supporting and shaping element also including a second portion formed integrally with the body portion thereof and extending rearwardly from the long side of the triangle of said element across and at an angle to the fold line of the collar assembly when the same is unfolded but being free to move relative to said neck band and said collar band, whereby when said collar band is turned down said record portion of each element can be pivoted downwardly to abut the fold line between said collar band and said neck band, thereby compressing the body of the element and forcing the same to assume a convex shape when the collar is buttoned.

8. A shirt collar assembly constructed in ac cordance with claim 7, wherein the body portions of said wing supporting and shaping elements are centrally weakened.

9. A shirt collar assembly comprising a neck band, a collar band joining the upper edge of said neck band along a fold line, said collar band terminating at each end in a pointed wing, a pair of flexible collar wing supporting and shaping elements adapted to underlie the wings of said collar band when the collar assembly is being worn, each wing supporting and shaping element including a body portion in the form of a scalene triangle smaller than the corresponding collar wing, and a pair of anchoring tabs for securing said wing supporting and shaping elements to said neck band, each of said wing supporting and shaping elements joining one of said tabs continuously along a fold line constituting the base of the triangle of said element, each of said wing supporting and shaping elements also including an extension integral therewith and slanting rearwardly and upwardly from the long side of the triangle of said element across the fold line of said collar assembly but being free to move relative to said neck band and said collar band, whereby when said collar band is turned down said extension of each element can be pivoted downwardly to lie against the fold line between said collar band and said neck band, thereby compressing the body of the element and forcing the same to assume a convex shape when the collar is buttoned.

10. A collar assembly constructed in accordance with claim 9, wherein the anchoring tab of each collar wing supporting and shaping element is secured to said neck band by at least one separable fastener.

11. A collar assembly constructed in accordance with claim 9, wherein saidbody portions of said collar wing supporting and shaping elements are centrally weakened.

12. A shirt collar assembly comprising a neck band, a turn-down collar band terminating at each end in a pointed wing and joining the upper edge of said neck band along a fold line, a collar wing supporting and shaping element positioned beneath each wing of said collar band, each of said collar wing supporting and shaping elements being secured at its base to said neck band and being smaller than the corresponding collar wing, and an extension formed integrally with each of said collar wing supporting and shaping elements and extending rearwardly therefrom, said extensions terminating at the side of the neck of the wearer when said collar assembly is worn, each of said extensions being disposed at an angle to said fold line such that, when said collar assembly is unfolded to lie substantially in a single plane, said extensions cross said fold line, each of said. wing supporting and shaping elements including its extension being formed as an integral unit from flexible sheet material, said extensions each being displaced downwardly between said collar band and said neck band by abutment wi thirddohuuzvisashrdlutaoinoi by abutment with said fold line when said collar is turned down, whereby said wing supporting and shaping elements are compressed and forced to assume a convex shape when the collar is buttoned.

. JOSEPH W. LESS.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 7 447,364 Samuel Mar. 3, 1891 2,110,525 Koss Mar. 8, 1938

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