US2446343A - Machine for securing together marginal portions of shoes - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 3, 1948. H. E. REASOR 2,445,343

MACHINE FOR SECURING TOGETHER Y MARGINAL PORTIONS OF SHOES Filed Sept. 21, 1946 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Aug. 3, 1948. H. E. REAsoR MACHINE FOR SECURING TOGETHER MARGINAL PORTIONS OF SHOES 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed Sept. 21, 1946 III/1 l atented Aug. 3, 1948 MACHINE FOR SECURING TOGETHER MARGINAL PORTIONS OF SHOES Harold Reasor, Melrose, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemmgton, N. J.,. a corporation ofNew Jersey Application September 21, 1946, Serial No. 698,584

7 Claims. 1

The present invention relates to machines for securing together with permanent fastenin'gs the marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole assembled without the support of a last and for simultaneously securing to said marginal portions a welt or strip to be employed in completing the shoe. In certain respects, the invention is an improvement over that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,398,475, granted April 16, 1946, on an application of Karl A. Stritter.

In the machine of the patent referred to, tom--- porarily attached marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole are presented to a sewing ma-- chine in divergent relationship and a platform cover strip also is directed toward the sewing point in doubled-up condition in order to prevent the free edge of the strip from interfering with the operating devices inthe machine and other-- wise to facilitate fastening the strip in' position on the upper. The upper and soleof the'shoe in the patent referred to are presented tothe machine without the support of a last and, in fact, no more than a preliminary upper shapingoperation has been periormed before the sewing operation. In order to attach the marginal'por'-- tions of the upper and sole temporarily before sewing, the upper at least isbeveled and its beveled face is cemented to the sole of the' shoe with the edges of the parts in: accurate register;

When the upper and sole are? thus temporarily attached, they assume roughly the contour of a shoe with their portions remote from the ree istering edges divergingat an angle toeach other; the upper being shaped to form the anglewlth the more rigid flat sole along the portions of 'th'ei sole and upper bordering the registering edgest.

In applying the strip, the partsare clamped together and the strip forced into conformity with' the curvature of the upper at the pointof sew ing operations. Forcing the strip into-conform ity with the curvature of the upper, may ten'd to" deflect the strip out of parallelism withthe line of the seam along the curved portins of theup per, particularly about the abruptly curving t'oe portion, producing irregular results where the shoe parts are composed of heavy relatively in flexible stock.

An object of the present invention is totprovidei a machine which will operate successiully in sew ing together a shoe upper and sole while unsupe ported-by a lastancl simultaneously for s'ecuringa welt or a platform cover stripto the :shoeziparts without deflecting the strip at the 1 sewing point: of the machine from a uniformly flattened? con:- dltion.

other features of the invention consist 2 In the illustrated embodiment of the present invention, flexure' of the welt or strip at the sewing point is avoided by arranging the shoe clamp} ing devices in such a way that the sole and upper are bent along those portions bordering the registering edges while the surface of the upper engaged by the strip at the sewing point is forced into a flattened condition, avoiding the necessity of deflecting the strip itself while fastening the parts. Preferably, a guide is provided in advance of the operating point to hold one edge of the strip in proper relation to the sewing point as the operation progresses. While the construction illustrated is of particular advantage when used in a sewing machine, improved results also are obtainable with shoe engaging and clamping devices in machines for fastening a welt or'sim'ilar strip toshoe parts by fasteningsother thanv stitches. l

in the hereinafter described and claimed the advantages ofwhich will readily be understood from the following description-taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 isview in side elevation" of asewing machine embodying the features or the .present invention;

Fig. 2' is a detail-view in -front elevation of amounting for the work supporting horn in the machine of Fig. l';- I

Fig; 3 is a sectional plan view takenalong the line III --III of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4: is a detail: view in left sideelevation of the horn mounting of Fig. 2; I

Fig. 5 is adetail view'on an enlarged scale of the Work clamping and guiding devices of the machine taken in section through the sewing-- point of the machine. with the parts constructedv toapply an ordinaryv welt toa' shoe;

Fig. 6 15a similar view of the same parts while operating upon ashoe-includingia sole edge binding strip; I l

Fig. 7 ista similar: view illustrating-the manner of attaching an inverted welt to a shoe in the machine;

Fig; 8:i's as'ectional plan view of the parts illustrated inJ-Fig. 5 taken" along-the line 'VIII -VIII;

Fig. 9 is a detail planview of the'welt strip guide. on the machihe; and

Fig; 10 is a sectional view'or the guide illustrated in Fig. 9 taken alongtheline X'X of that figure;

The machine illustrated in' the. drawings-oper- I5 ates I to secure a temporarily attached upper and beveled to form a feather edge, the bevel face of which provides sufiicient area to form a secure cement joint between the parts. The strength of the cement bond in the joint alone is insufficient to withstand the strains which would be set up if an attempt were made to insert a supporting last so that no attempt is made to insert a last at this stage of the construction. Thus, without the support of a last, accordingto priorpraetices, the marginal portions of the upper, particularly, are deflected from the point of attachment in an irregular manner along the registering edges of the parts. The sole, being more resistant to deflection, retains a substantially flattened condition so that all of the flexure necessary to give shape to the shoe is confined to the upper. If an attempt is made to clamp the shoe parts to-- gether with a welt strip at the sewing point, under conditions of deflection assumed naturally during temporary attachment of the registering edges, diificulty will be encountered in leading a welt or other strip to the sewing point, the welt being deflected from a flattened condition at the sewing point to fit the curvatures along the outer marginal face of the upper.

To avoid diiiiculty in sewing a welt or cover strip to the outer marginal face of a shoe upper temporarily attached to a sole without the Support of a last, the illustrated machine is provided with clamping and guiding devices which bend the sole along the marginal portion and flatten out the. upper about the sewing point so that the strip as it approaches the sewing point will not be deflected but will lie in flattened condition during the insertion of stitches. After the stitches have been insertedand the parts are fed beyond the sewing point, they again assume their natural positions in which the stresses and strains in the parts are balanced but without affectin the movement and condition of the strip as it approaches the sewing point. Inthis way, necessity for careful observation and accurate, control of the welt as it is bein attached to the shoe is avoided and a comparatively simple form of guide may be employed, acting to hold one edge of the welt flatly in position as the operation progresses.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the illustrated machine is provided with work clamping and stitch forming devices similar to those of the patent to Stritter above identified. These devices include a work support l 6, a presser foot 18, a presser in the form. of a rotary disk mounted on a yieldingly actuated hOIn 22, a curved hook needle 24, a curved awl 26, the point of operations of which is indicated at 21, Fig. 8, and other stitch forming devices of similar construction and manner of operation to those in the machine of United States LettersPatentNo. 1.169.909, granted February 1, 1916, on an application of Fred Ashworth. 7

The welt guide in the machine of Fig. l is arranged to direct one edge of a strip 28 forming a welt to the sewing point in overlapping relation to the edge of the upper while the other edge of the strip projects beyond the edge of the upper in the manner of an inverted welt}? so called,

according to the usual manufacture of shoes. The strip is presented to the sewing point in substantially flattened condition as illustrated in Fig. 7, the upper and sole being bent into conformity with the flattened upper surface of the welt. The sole [4 of the shoe, bein stiffer than the upper, is deflected downwardly from its flattened condition by gripping teeth on the under surface of the presser foot and, to retain the shape of the shoe with an angular divergence between the sole and uppenthe presser '26 located inside the shoe but outside a circle defined by a continuation of the curved needle cooperates with the presser foot 13' in bending the sole downwardly through a gradually curving arc. Beyond the sewing point, the sole again assumes its flattened condition and carries the strip into a shape conforming with that of the upper. In this way, tension and ex cessive strain on the bond between the temporarily attached upper and sole are avoided, the shoe parts operated upon still being in a shape generally corresponding to that of the completed shoe without producing undesirable reactions or displacement of one part or another.

The guide of the work support I 6 is of conventional form, as illustrated in Fig. 1, having strip edge confining flanges. Such an arrangement is useful where the strip is a relatively narrow welt. With the use of a strip which is to be reversed upon itself or flexed at an angle to its sewed edge, as in the usual Goodyear welt shoe construction, a greater width of strip may be required so that a guide havin corresponding widthwise capacity is needed. For this purpose, a guide may be employed to advantage which is similar to that disclosed in an application for United States Letters Patent Serial No. 617,349, filed September 19, 1945, in the name of George A. Miner, now Patent No. 2,416,767, granted March 4, 19%7.

A strip guide having an unlimited widthwise capacity similar to that disclosed in the application just referred to is illustrated in Figs. 8, 9 and 10 of the drawings. This guide has a single edge confining abutment 3d and means for crowding and retaining one edge of the strip against the abutment including a friction wheel 32 rotating about an axis inclined at an angle to the line'of: the seam inserted by the machine and to the line of movement of the strip. The friction wheel is yieldingly maintained in contact with the-strip by mounting it for rotation on a yoke 34 hinged at St to a, block 38 on the lower portion of the guide, the guide proper being formed integrally with a work support 39. The yoke is perforated to receive a threaded stud ii! carrying a coil spring :lZcompressed between the lower surface of the yoke and an adjustable thumb nut 45. Rotation of the wheel 32 tends to direct the strip in the direction of the arrow 46 in Fig.-..8 whereas the abutment 36 causes the strip to travel in the direction of the arrow 48, the wheel sliding along the surface of the strip to enable the change in direction.

The open edge of the guide enables insertion Within it of a strip 58, as in Fig. 5, or a platform cover strip 5i, as in Fig. 6, Without changes in construction or adjustment. With the use of thewelts or strips 55 or 5!, the unsecured edges thereof are deflected downwardly to some extent by the bent upper but, no clamping action is exerted on the deflected portion of the strips so asto interfere with its proper presentation in flattened condition at the sewing point, the strips extending-in an easy flowing curvature along the surface of the work support which may be shaped corresponding-ly as'in Fig 5. In the form of' action of thehor'n against the upper and bindingstrip. The presser2ii and the horn 22 also'are adjustedin location to prevent clamping engagement-between the presser and the shoe parts during-normal operation of the machine. The presser and horn-are thus positively prevented from engaging the'shoe parts at the sewing point and are also held clear from the bite of thepresser foot'against the work support at all times.

The location and mounting for the presser sup port'i'ng horn enables the horn to swing about air-"axisin alinement with the sewing point and also to swing the presseroutwa'rdly away from the -work support'and presser foot to a position where-a-shoe may 'readilybe-a'pplied or removed from 'the horn; To theselends, the lower end of the hornis formed with a vertical spindle portion 514 rotatably mounted in a block 5%} rotatalble in turn on ahorizontal pin 58 clamped at itsright end within a, bracket 68 secured to the machine frame;- Rotationof the horn about the pin 58 enables the presser to be swung outwardly from the sewing point of the machine to a convenient position for application or removal of a shoe. Inward movement of the presser toward the sewing point is limited by an adjustable set screW'GZ-threaded through a, lug in the block 56 and engaging at its upper end an outwardly projecting arm of the bracket tit. The spindle portion 54 of the horn is held from downward movement in the block 55 by a circumferentially slotted clamp collar 64 surrounding the spindle 54 of the horn, the horn being raised sufiiciently to avoid pressure by the presser against those portions of a shoe upper or'welt strip between the presser and the work support. To limit rotational movement of the horn in the block 56, the slot in the clamp collar 6 3 receives the inner end of a removable pin 66 slidingly mounted in a horizontal opening of an upstanding arm on the block 56. The pin 66 is formed with a knurled head and a grooved central portion within which is received a latching spring 68 when the pin is in operative position. The latching spring 68 is secured to the block by a screw Hi and may be flexed to disengage the groove in the pin when it is necessary to remove the horn from the block 56.

To urge the presser 2B yieldingly toward the sewing point of the machine, the pin 66 has connected to it one end of a tension spring 12 the other end of which is secured to the machine frame, the spring tending to keepthe setscrew B2 on the block against the arm on the bracket 60 at all times.

For guiding the edge of a, welt or strip on the work support, a gage in the form of a shoulder 14 is provded on the work engaging surface of the work support. This shoulder is located a proper distance to the rear of the point of needle operation to give the desired results and is spaced from the point of operation of the needle different distances on the work supports 39, 52 and I6 for diiierent types of welt or strip, illustrated in Figs. 5, 6 and 7, respectively. The gages on the work supports 39 and 52 of Figs. 5 and 6, respectively, retain the edges of the strip employed therewith in substantial registry with the edges of the shoe sole and upper. The welt gage on the work support [6 of Fig. 7 retains one 6' edge of thewelt strip in overlapping relation to the edge of the upper while the other edge of the strip projects beyond the edge of the upper in the manner of an inverted welt.

To guide the edges of the shoe sole and upper,

a sole edge gage i conventional form is provided. The sole gage is mounted on an adjustable arm 18, the position of which may be controlled by connections more fully described in United States Letters Patent No. 2,003,526, granted June 4, 1935, in the name of Fred Ashworth.

The nature and scope of the invention hav ing been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is:

1. A machine for uniting the marginal portions of a shoe upper and'sole whileunsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt or strip to' the outer face of the upper, having fastening'devices, a work support, a welt or strip guide on the work support arranged to engage and direct thestrip toward the operating point of the'machirie, and'a pressure foot arranged to engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the marginal portion of the sole against the other parts on'the work support, in combination with a presser locatedfor action inside the shoe to bend the sole along a portion bordering the edges away from-the upper while leaving the sole free to be deflected by-the clamping action of the presser foot.

2. A machine for uniting the marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole while unsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt or strip to the outer face of the upper, having fastening devices; a work support arranged to engage and direct the strip toward'the operating point of the machine, and a presser foot arranged to engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the marginal portion of the soie against the other parts on the work support, in combination with a presser located foraction inside the shoe to bend the sole along a portion bordering the edges away from the upper while leaving the sole free to be deflected by the clamping action of the presser foot, and a guide located in advance of the operating point to hold one edge of the strip in close proximity to the operating point as the operation progresses.

3. A machine for uniting the marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole while unsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt or strip to the outer face of the upper, having fastening devices, a work support arranged to engage and direct the strip toward the operating point of the machine, and a presser foot arranged to engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the marginal portions of all the parts against the work support, in combination with a presser acting inside the shoe to bend the sole along a portion bordering the edges away from the upper while leaving the sole free to be deflected by the clamping action of the presser foot, a guide acting in advance of the operating point to hold one edge of the strip in close proximity to the operating point as the operation progresses, and a gage on the work support for retaining the edge of the welt strip in substantial registry with the edges of the sole and upper.

4. A machine for uniting the marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole while unsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt or strip to the outer face of the upper, having fastening devices, a work support arranged to engage and direct the strip toward. the operating point of the machine, and a presser foot arranged tov engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the marginal portions of all parts against the work support, in combination with a presser acting inside the shoe to bend the sole along a portion bordering the edges away from the upper while leaving the sole free to defiected by the clamping action of the presser foot, a guide acting in advance of the operating point to hold one edge of the strip in close proximity to the operating point as the operation progresses, and a gage on the work support for retaining one edge of the welt strip in overlapping relation to the edge of the upper while the other edge of the strip projects beyond the edge of the upper in the manner of an inverted welt.

5. A sewing machine for uniting the temporarily attached marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole while unsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt strip to the outer face of the upper, having stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a work support, a welt guide on the work support arranged to engage and direct the welt strip toward the sewing point, and a presser foot arranged to engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the marginal portion of the sole against the other parts on the work support, in combination with a presser located for action inside the shoe and outside a circle defined by the curved needle to bend the sole along that portion bordering the edges away from the upper while leaving the sole free to be deflected against the presser by the clamping action of the presser foot.

6. A sewing machine for uniting the temporarily attached marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole while unsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt strip to the outer face of the upper, having stitch forming devices including a needle, a work support, a welt guide on the work support arranged to engage and direct the welt strip toward the sewing point,

and a presser foot arranged to engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the sole against the portions of the other parts on the work support, in combination with a presser located for action inside the shoe to bend the sole along that portion bordering the edges away from the upper while leaving the sole free to be deflected against the presser by the clamping action of the'presser foot, and a yieldingly actuated horn on which the presser is mounted for urging the presser toward the sewing point.

7. A sewing machine for uniting the temporarily attached marginal portions of a shoe upper and sole while unsupported by a last and for simultaneously securing a welt strip to the outer face of the upper, having stitch forming devices including a needle, 2. work support arranged to engage and direct the welt strip toward the sewing point, and a presser foot arranged to engage the outer marginal face of the sole and to clamp the marginal portions of all the parts against the work support, in combination with a.

presser acting inside the shoe to bend the sole along that portion bordering the edges away from the upper while leaving the sole free to be deflected against the presser by the clamping action of the presser foot, 2. yieldingly actuated horn on which the presser is mounted for urging the presser toward the sewing point, and an adjustable setscrew for limiting the movement of the presser toward the sewing point.

HAROLD E. REASOR.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,359,803 Stritter Oct. 10, 1944 2,398,475 Stritter Apr. 16, 1946

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