US2433522A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

J. F. LOWE Delc. 3o, 1947.

COLLAR Filed Jan. 7, 194'? 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 lNvE/NTOR tzi/wm;

ATTORNEYS Dec. 30, 1947.

J. F. LOWE COLLAR 2 Sheets-sheet 2 Filed Jam. '7, 1947 Wwf INVENTOR M a/vuw;

ATTORN EY Patented Dec. 30, 1947 COLLAR John Fletcher Lowe, Baltimore, Md., assignor to The B. V. D. Corporation, New York, N. Y., a.

corporation of Delaware Application January 7, 1947, Serial No. 720,569:

8 Claims. 1v

This invention relates to garments with attached collars adapted to be worn either open or closed, examples of such garments being shirts for dress, work, and sports purposes, pajama coats, and the like. More particularly, the invention is concerned with a novel collar for use in such garments, which has an attractive appearance in either open or closed condition and retains that appearance indefinitely and despite repeated laundering or dry cleaning. While the new collar construction may be used to advantage in such garments as are mentioned above and also in jackets of light weight materials, such as seersucker, for example, the invention may be employed with especial benefit in shirts of the al1-purpose type. Accordingly, an embodiment of the invention suitable for use in such shirts. will be illustrated and described in detail for purposes of explanation although it is to be understood that the utility of the invention is not limited to its use in those specific garments.

Collars for all-purpose shirts should be made without conventional neck bands, in order that no unsightly stitching will come into View, when the collar is Worn unbuttoned and spread apart. At the saine time it is desirable to provide support for the collar at the back, so that, when the collar is worn closed, it will not sag and slip down below the top of the collar of the coat. Stiffening or reinforcing means aliording such support should be Wholly invisible and, While giving the collar, when closed, a well-defined fold line, should not prevent the collar from lying at, when Worn fully opened. Finally, the collar should be of such construction that its production does not add unduly to the cost of shirt manufacture and it should be capable of withstanding laundering, either in the home or by the usual commercial methods, and also dry cleaning, without losing its shape.

The collar of the invention satisfies the requirements above set forth and affords numerous advantages over similar collars as heretofore constructed. The desired results are obtained by the employment in the collar of the combinationof both a main lining, which lies between and is the same shape and size as the inner and outer collar facings, and an auxiliary lining which has a curved upper edge and provides additional support for the collar, especially at the back, but without impairing the appearance of the collar when it is worn open The auxiliary lining has its greatest width at the back and. denes the fold line of the collar, when the latter is worn closed. The auxiliary lining is stitched along its upper edge to either the main lining or the inner facing and, preferably, it is s0 formed aS t0 DTO- vide at least two. layers of material atv thel back of the collar to give increased support where it is most needed. Extra reinforcing means may also be incorporated in the new collar along the forward edges of thev points, so that the points will lie flat, regardless of whether the collar is worn open or closed, and will not, wrinkle, or b e. come distorted.

For a better understanding oi the invention, reference may be made to the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a front View of a portion of a shirt with the new collar attached, the collar being shown in open position;

Fig. 2 is a plan View showing the interior of the shirt with the collar attached thereto;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on the line 3,-3 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a sectional view similar to Fig. 3, but showing the collar in folded condition;

Fig. 5 is a plan View of a modied form of main lining ply;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a modied auxiliary lining;

Fig 7 is a sectional View on theline -,-'l of Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a View similar to Fig. 7 of a modiiied construction; n

Fig. 9 is a front View of a part of a shirt with a modified form of the new collar attached, parts of the collar and shirt being broken away;

Fig. 10 is a transverse sectional view through the back of the collar illustrated in Fig. 9, the col.- lar being shown in folded condition;

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary front view of a shirt with another modified form of the new collar attached, parts of the collar being broken away;

Fig. 12 is a transverse sectional View through the collar illustrated in Fig. 11, the collar being shown in folded condition; and

Fig. 13 is a View similar to Fig. 12 of another modied collar construction.

In Fig, l, there is illustrated a portion of an all-purpose shirt provided with the collar 2i! of the invention, the collar being shown in open position, The shirt is of the open front type and includes front panels 2|, a yoke 22, and a back 23. The shirting material is turned back behind the edges of the front panels to form wide hems 23, 2d as is customary in pajamas, all-purpose shirts, dresses with collars, etc., and the collar is provided with the usual points 2.5 Which are ordinarily somewhat longer than in conventional dress shirts, but may be of any desired length.

The collar includes an outer facing ply 25, an inner facing ply 2l, both of which are of onepiece construction and made of the shirting material, and a main lining ply 28, which lies between the facing plies. The main lining ply is made of a single piece of any usual lining material and is of the same shape and size as the facings. Between the inner facing ply and the main lining is an auxiliary lining generally designated 29, which is made of a material similar to that of which the main lining is made and, in the collar shown, extends from end to end of the collar, although, if desired, the auxiliary lining may be centered at the back of the collar and extend forwardly only part way to the ends` of the collar. The lower edge of the auxiliary lining and the lower edges of the facings and main lining are all secured to the main body of the shirt around the neck opening by. stitching 30 in the usual way.

The upper edge of the auxiliary lining is upwardly shaped or curved and the auxiliary lining is of the greatest height at the back of the collar. Along its top edge, the auxiliary lining is secured to the main lining, or to the inner facing, the latter construction being illustrated. Preferably, in securing the top of the auxiliary lining in place, the curved edge thereof is turned back upon itself to form a hem 3lv of substantial width and two rows of stitching 32 formed by a double needle sewing machine are passed through the main part of the auxiliary lining, the turnedback portion thereof, and the ply to which it is connected.

The auxiliary lining is preferably made in two sections, whichv are laid end to end and have an overlap at the' back of the collar. In the construction shown in Fig. 2. the sections 29a and 29o have downwardly and forwardly inclined edges 33 at their overlapping ends, so that there is an area of the auxiliary lining at the back of the collar which is of double thickness and is wider at the bottom than at the top.

When the shirt is worn, the collar is folded over the curved top of the auxiliary lining, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4, and the additional thickness of auxiliary lining material along its upper edge stiffens that edge, so that it provides a welldefned fold line and will not roll back upon itself. Also this additional thickness helps to keep the main parts of the collar apart, when it is in folded condition, and this facilitatesdrawing a necktie through the tunnel between these parts. The extra thickness of material in the overlapped portion of the auxiliary lining at the back of the collar provides the support that is necessary to keep the back of the collar erect, particularly when it is worn in the open condition shown in Fig. 1.

In order that the points of the collar may lie ilat and not beconiedistorted in laundering or wear, the collar is provided with internal reinforcing means along the edges of thev points. Such means may take the form of additional strips 34 of lining material, which are laid along the forward edges of the main lining and held in place by the stitching 25 along the outer edge of the collar. If desired, the main lining may be of the modified form shown in Fig. 5, in which the main body 35 of the lining is provided with extensions 36 along its end edges. Such extensions are folded back to the dotted line position, when the lining is assembled with the facings in the production of the collar.

Yfacing along its upper edge.

Instead of forming the auxiliary lining of two parts with the overlap with downwardly and forwardly inclined edges at the back of the collar, as illustrated in Fig. 2, the modified form of the auxiliary lining shown in Fig. 6 may be employed. In this form, the auxiliary lining includes two end sections 31a, 31h and, at the rear of the collar, the ends of the sections are folded back upon themselves and interlocked, after which the interlocked ends are secured together by a double row of stitching 38. With this arrangement, there is an area extending from top to bottom of the auxiliary lining at the back of the collar, in which there are four thicknesses of material to provide support.

A single piece auxiliary lining 39 may be employed, if desired, and, in that event, the auxiliary lining is preferably made sufficiently long to per-r mit it to be folded upon itself to provide three thicknesses 40 of material at the back of the collar, the overlapped portions being secured together by rows of stitching 4l. The length of the areas in which additional thicknesses of material are provided in the constructions shown in Figs. 6 to 8 may vary, as may be desired.

In the modified construction shown in Fig. 9, the collar includes an inner facing 42, an outer facing 43, and a main lining 134, which is of the same shape and size as the facings and lies between them. An auxiliary lining extends from end to end of the collar and has a curved upper edge so that the auxiliary lining has its greatest width at the back of the collar. The auxiliary lining lies between the main lining and the inner facing and it is stitched to the inner Preferably, before the auxiliary lining is thus secured in place, it is folded back upon .itself along its upper edge to provideV a strip 45a of double thickness and of substantial width, and two rows of stitching 46 Vmade by a double needle sewing machine are passed through the strip and the inner facing. A collar of the type described is satisfactory, when the auxiliary lining is made of a suitable lining material, and the double thickness of the auxiliary lining material along the top edge gives a well-defined fold line to the collar and also prevents the auxiliary lining from rolling over upon itself.

The collar shown in Figs. l1 and 12 is similar to that illustrated in Fig. 9 and includes an inner facing 41, a main lining 48, and an outer facing 49. An auxiliary lining 5B, which is similar to that designated at 45, lies between the main lining and the inner facing. The top edge of the auxiliary lining is secured to the inner facing by a row of stitching 5I, and a strip 52 is then laid over that top edge and secured in place by double needle stitching 53. The strip plus the edge of the auxiliary lining gives an increased thickness along the top edge of the auxiliary lining, which has the advantages above mentioned. The strip 52 may be made of a length of tape or of a length of bias-cut material folded upon itself to provide more than one thickness. Also, if desired, the strip may be folded to enclose the top edge of the auxiliary lining, before that lining and the strip are secured in place.

The construction shown in Fig. 13 is similar to that shown in Fig. 1l, except that the auxiliary lining is folded back upon itself along its top edge to provide the double thickness strip 54, after which a tape 55 is laid against the strip. The strip and the tape are then secured by double collal- Y Y`lriallhforrns of the newl collar; the sti't' liing'by' which the4 auxiliary'V lining issec'ured iii place aibng its upper edge is iin-visible, regardless of whether thel collar is` worn openor" closedtrie-collar is worn closed; it foldsl smooililyalong* tlfl'je fold line d'lene'd' by the' ci'irvedV upper edge*v of the auxiliary" lining and` that lining provides'tlie sii'pia'ortv that is desirable) at theA bajck of thecollar;l TheY anioun'tor support so afrordedmay be v'aried, depending upon whether the auxiliary lin'u nig is made inA a single piece withoutv overlap; as shown in" Fig. 9,l or has the overl-appedV` portionsi shown in; Figs; 2, 7, and s. when the collar' is w'orrr open, there is no' distinct fold line; adj" enty` tri-'ey forward edges of the points but' the auxiliary liningtendsfto give the col-lar a soft roll eiiect, as shown in Eig. 1. y l

While I have illustrated' and described thenew' collaasincluding a'single main lining and asin.v gle auxiliary lining, which is ordinarily of more than one thickness only at the back of the collar, it may be desirable in some instances, depending u'p'on the k'ind of lining material used, to employ two or more main lining plies aridt'wo'- or nio-re auxiliary linings.` In all forms of the new collar there is an increased thickness of material along the `uppery edge of the auxiliary lining, so that' the fold line is distinct and' there is little likelihof'xi of the collar rollin-g over below they top of the aux` iliar'y lining, especially at the back. In the dollar shown' in 3, there ares'even plies of themateria'l along the top' edge' of the' auxiliary lining' at the back of the collar, not taking into account the plies in the skirt or part of the collar extending downwardly beyond the fold line. On either side of the overlapped portion of the auxiliary lining, there are ve plies of material along the 'top edge of the auxiliary lining in the Fig. 3 construction. The collars of Figs. l0 and 12 have five plies of material along the upper edge of the auxiliary lining in the upstanding part of the collar and that of Fig. 13 has six plies of material in the same region.

In the collars illustrated, the auxiliary lining extends forwardly along both sides from the middle of the back to the front ends of the collar, but, if desired, the auxiliary lining may be substantially shorter, so that the fold line does not cross it, regardless of whether the collar is worn open or closed. The auxiliary lining may be of any desired length between the extremes mentioned, and the length used will depend upon the effect desired. Thus` the auxiliary lining of the shortest length mentioned, will serve only to support the collar at the back, but, if longer, will not only provide such support, but also keep the collar erect toward the front and in those places where the collar is exposed when a coat is worn.

I claim:

l. A collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminait-rfvT in outwardly extending points, a main lining ply lying between and of the same shape and size as the facing plies, said facing and main lining plies being adapted to be folded along 9, longitudinal line between the inner and outer edges thereof, and an auxiliary lining lying between one facing ply and the main lining ply and extending forwardly on both sides of the middle of the back of the collar, the upper edge of the auxiliary lining being upwardly curved and highest at the back of the collar, said edge being turned back upon itself and secured to one of the plies with which the auxiliary lining is in 6 coiitadtfby" aA throughmainpart of the? auxiliary lining and the turned back portion thereof, .the auxiliary lin-4 ing' incli'idi'rigV at? least two overlapping layers' at. the back of the collar only.

2l; A collarl,y which comprises inner and outer radin -fplies t "-rninating in outwardly' extending,

' lining" ply and? extending forwardly on both sides ofthe middle'of the liacl'r of the collar, the upper edge of' the auxiliary' lining being curved: andturnefdback upon itself and secured to one of the pli-'es' with; which` the' auxiliary lining isl in contact by adou-ble row of stitches passing through the main part of the auxiliary lining and the turned bacl portion thereof, the auxiliary lining being made' up of two aligned sections having endl por'- tio'ns withl downwardly and forwardly inclined end edges', said end portions overlapping to form anrarea in which there is a double thickness of material and which' is narrower at thetop than at the* tettoia.

3:. A collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminating in outwardly extending points', a main lining ply lying between and of the saine shape andA size as the facing plies, said facand main lining plies being adaptedl to be' folded along' a longitudinal line between the inner and outer edges thereof, and an auxiliary lining lying between one facing ply and the main lining ply and extending forwardly on both sides of the middle of the back of the collar, the upper edge of the auxiliary lining being upwardly curved and highest at the back of the collar, said edge being turned back upon itself and secured to one of the plies with which the auxiliary lining is in contact by a double row of stitches passing through the main part of the auxiilary lining and the turned back portion thereof, the auxiliary lining being transversely folded upon itself at the back of the collar to form an area in which there are at least three thicknesses of material.

4. A collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminating in outwardly extending points, a main lining ply lying between and of the same shape and size as the facing plies, said facing and main lining plies being adapted to be folded along a longitudinal line between the inner and outer edges thereof, and an auxiliary lining lying between one facing ply and the main lining ply and extending forwardly on both sides of the middle of the back of the collar, the upper edge of the auxiliary lining being upwardly curved and highest at the back of the collar, and said auxiliary lining having at least two overlapping layers at the back of the collar only.

5. A collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminating in outwardly extending points, a main lining ply lying between and of the same shape and size as the facing plies, said facing and main lining plies being adapted to be folded along a longitudinal line between the inner and outer edges thereof, and an auxiliary lining lying between one facing ply and the main lining ply and extending forwardly on both sides of the middle of the back of the collar, the upper edge of the auxiliary lining being upwardly curved and highest at the back of the collar, and said auxiliary lining being made up of two aligned sections tuple rowy or stitches: passing.:

having end portions with downwardly inclined end edges, said end portions overlapping to form an area, in which there is a double thickness of material and which is narrower at the top than at the bottom.

6. A collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminating in outwardly extending points, a main lining ply lying between and of the same shape and size as the facing plies, said facing and main lining plies being. adapted to be folded along a longitudinal line between the inner and outer edges thereof, an auxiliary lining lying between one facing ply and the main lining ply and extending forwardly on both sides of the middle Yof the back of the collar, the upper edge of the auxiliary lining being upwardly curved and highest at the back of the collar, and said auxiliary lining having at least two overlapping layers at the back of the collar only, and reinforcing members between the facing plies along the front edges of the points.

7. A collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminating in outwardly extending points, a main lining ply lying between and of the same shape and size as the facing plies, said facing and Vmain lining plies being adapted tof-be folded along a longitudinal line between the inner and outer edges thereof, an auxiliary lining lying between one facing ply and the main lining ply and extending forwardly on both sides of the middle of the back of the collar, the upper edge of the auxiliary lining being upwardly curved and highest at the back of the collar, and said auxiliary lining having at least two overlapping layers at the back of the collar, and narrow reinforcing strips between the facing plies along the frontvedges of the points.

SQA collar, which comprises inner and outer facing plies terminating in outwardly extending layers at the back of the collar, and narrow reenforcing strips between the facing plies along the front edges of the points, said strips being formed as integral extensions from the ends of the main lining ply folded back upon the face of that ply.

JOHN FLETCHER LOWE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,637,540 Sukrow Aug. 2, 1927 1,671,563 Williams May 29, 1928 1,814,818 Bard July 14, 1931 2,081,136 Di Iuglio May 25, 1937 2,197,134 Rubinstein Apr. 16, 1940

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