US2321831A - Garment trimming machine - Google Patents

Garment trimming machine Download PDF

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Publication number
US2321831A
US2321831A US421297A US42129741A US2321831A US 2321831 A US2321831 A US 2321831A US 421297 A US421297 A US 421297A US 42129741 A US42129741 A US 42129741A US 2321831 A US2321831 A US 2321831A
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dress
garment
plate
tubular member
shearing
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US421297A
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Lehde Henry
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SAMUEL SHEFSKY
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SAMUEL SHEFSKY
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Priority claimed from US321894A external-priority patent/US2422914A/en
Application filed by SAMUEL SHEFSKY filed Critical SAMUEL SHEFSKY
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41HAPPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H9/00Devices or methods for trimming, levelling or straightening the hems of garments

Definitions

  • This invention relates to improvements in dress or garment trimming machinesv and provides ⁇ a fully automaticV device for quickly and accurately trimming ythe bottomv of a dress or-the like to a straight line at any desired length, while it is on a dress form, this operation being commonly known as sloping.
  • One object'of the invention is to make it unnecessary to measure the length of the dress being eut, ⁇ it being possible to cut anydesired length of dress byk a simple ⁇ adjusting means.l
  • Another vobject is to eliminate anynecessity for the operator to adjust the bottom of the dress in any Way or to prepare it for the cutting operation, regardless of the type of ⁇ dress material, orthe size, shape and number ofl folds in the dress.
  • Another object is to make the operationl of the machine completely automatic upon simply pressinga foot pedal and to eliminate all necessity for the-operator to bend over to operate-the-machine.
  • a further object is to provide a-quick andsimple means for interchanging various sizes of dress forms on the machine, so that it may be conveniently used where a wide range of dress sizes are handled.
  • Fig. 1- is a vertical section of the completein'- vention.-
  • Fig. 2 is a horizontal section taken on line 2 2, Fig. 1, but; showing the forrny removed and the form holding meansin an unlocked. position.
  • Fig. 3 is a horizontal section taken on the correspendingly numbered line in Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 4 is an enlarged vertical section of the cutting assembly shown at the left in Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 5 is a fragmentary horizontal section, on an enlarged scale, taken on line 5-5 in Fig. 1.
  • Fig. 6 is a fragmentary vertical section,ron ⁇ an enlarged scale, taken on. line 6 6, Fig. 1.
  • 61 is fitted to a base I5 'forming the main frameofthemachine.
  • a tube 99 is fastenedywithin the column I6 .and a hollow plug
  • a rod-891s threaded at its lower end; and passes through theplug
  • the nutf95 is Aforthepurpose of adjustingthe downward pressure: ofthe spring .83 exertedr on the rod 86.
  • the upper vend of thetubef- has a ⁇ .beve1 ⁇ 99
  • , which'suppor-ts -a dress formY lill, is .slidingly fitted over thestube S10-and the wedge 92.
  • this wedge- is pulleddown against the beveled surface 99
  • the inner ends of the latches will overlap the edge of the ring 98, and lock the same in place on the plate 91.
  • the dress form can be rotated conveniently by the operator.
  • a series of dress forms of various sizes can be quickly attached to or detached from the supporting plate 91 by manipulating the shifting plate 94.
  • a vstationary plate 93 is fastened to the upper part of the tube 9
  • a drum-shaped casting 69 is fastened to the central column I6 and a shearing ring or annular cutter 68 is clamped between the top of this drum and a retaining or clamping ring 19 by means of screws 19
  • 9I is adjusted to the proper height by setting the collar
  • An upwardly tapering conical guard 61 is attached to the clamping ring 19, which engages the inner side of the folds of the dress and causes them to fall clear of the top of the clamping ring 19.
  • a freely rotating turret or supporting gear wheel I1 is mounted upon the column I6 and held in position thereon by collars 2
  • and 32 are mounted in guides 11 and 18 ⁇ on the rear wheel I 1 so as to slide radially thereon, as shown in Fig. 3. Normally these arms and the associated cutting assembly mounted at their outer ends are urged outwardly or to the left in the drawings, by the springs 12 and'13 shown with their center sections broken out in Fig. 3.
  • I are fastened at their lower ends to a guide plate I4, which surrounds the column I6. Near their lower ends the studs I9, are pivotally secured to the two sections of a foot lever I I1 by the studs I2 and I3.
  • I1 is pivoted at its rear end to the upper ends of the members of a link
  • I1 is transmitted to the yoke or swivel and to the cables 22 and 23, which pull the horizontal arm or bar assembly against the pull exerted by springs 12 and 13. Upon releasing the lever
  • Part of the cutting mechanism includes the rotary blade or shearing disc 62 which cooperates with the horizontal shearing ring 68 and moves bodily around the garment support in the manner of a planet and is mounted on the outer endsof the horizontal bars or arms 3
  • the cutter shaft 59 which carries the cutter disc 62 rotates in bearings 41
  • the lower plate 41 is attached to the bars or arms 3
  • the cutter shaft 59 is provided with a sprocket wheel
  • the friction wheel 46 engages with a rubber tire 1
  • the shearing disc 62 is moved inwardly just below theedge of the shearing ring 68. Further motion of the foot lever I
  • the equalizer bar 29 is provided .with a bolt 39, which is pivoted on a lug 49.
  • the leaf I3I exerts an upward pressure on the square bushing 34 which rests on thisleaf and engages with a slot 23
  • Thebushing 34-acts1 as ar thrust bearing tor transmit the upward force to the-combination collar and quiet 39; which-'isY adjustablymounted on thecutter shaft 50'by providi'ng the uper end of the studv 39 a screwv thread which engages with athreadedaopening in the lowerend of the cutter shaft and thereby 'enables the effective length of this-shaft to be in-v creased or decreased.
  • 32and 49 are so selected andA adjustedthat av steadilyv increasing force applied to the equalizer bar 29 will first stretch the weakest springs 12 and 13. Then when this motion is arrested by the friction wheel 46 striking the rubber tire 1I, the spring 49, being the next stronger, will be compressed to allow liftingof the shearing disc 62.v Finally when the shearing. disc. 62 strikes the shearing ring 68, the strongest spring
  • the bolt IES adjustably mounted on the foot lever I I1 strikes the push button switch 44 and the lever H9, which holds the bolt
  • This spring allows additional motion of the foot lever
  • the operation of the vswitch 44 starts the motor 80, which drives the gear I1 by means of the pinion 82.
  • the latter is not directly connected to the motor shaft, but is driven through a friction clutch 8
  • the motor 80 is supported on the main frame of the machine by the bracket 43, which is in turn fastened to the column I6 lby the U-bolt 42 and the collar 45.
  • the rotation of gear I1 by the motor 86 causes the cutting assembly to swing around the dress.
  • the friction wheel 46 being in contact with the tire 1I, is rotated onits axis and drives the shearing disc 62, while theA assembly as a Whole is. moving ,around ⁇ the drum 69. Since-thelower edge-of the drum- 69 4is of larger diameter-than the shearing-ring 68, andl since the shearing disc 62 is of larger diameter than thefriction wheel 46 the shearing disc 62 is ⁇ rotated -at a relatively higher peripheral speed. Thus, itA effects a wiping cutting action in additionfto theshearing action it would have if it-merely rolled-'around ⁇ the shearing ring 68.
  • Smoothing means are yprovided for use in connection withv the cutting assemblyto assure that the pleats andJ folds in ⁇ the-dress are brought to the shearing members rintheir natural positions, undisturbed by the motion of the shearing disc 62. Any disarranging of the natural ⁇ positions ofthe pleats and folds, except a radial compression-of the folds towards the shearing ring-68, will cause a scalloped or uneven cut.
  • the smooth-ingmechanism to produce this effect is mounted on the plates 48, 5930i the cutter carriage: and constructed Vas follows:
  • 33 on the shaft 56 rotates a driven sprocket wheel
  • Two belts 51 and 50? pass around the pulley
  • a system of retaining belts which extends along the periphery of the drum from a point in rear of the cutting station to a point considerably in front of this station and which belts cooperate with the adjacent surface of the drum for holding the dress above the cutting line so that the same is not displaced during the operation of trimming the same by the cutters 62, 68.
  • the belts 51 and 58 hold the dress firmly against the drum above and below the shearing ring 68 for a considerable distance aro'und the circumference of the dress and the drum, but the belts III and Il3 do not press throughout their length against the drum but operate mainly to gather the garment inasmuch as they form, with the adjacent part of the drum, a rearwardly converging passage or throat whereby the body of the garment and any pleats therein are held in place and di rected to the cutting station in a proper non-misplaced condition. This is of considerable help in starting the cut and in securing a positive cutting action of the cutters on the dress.
  • the belts 51, 58, iII and II3 are driven in the direction of the arrows associated with the same in Fig. 2.
  • the speeds of the belts are so determined that there is little or no relative motion between these belts and the dress.
  • the cutting assembly is rotating clockwise around the dress, that side of the belt system opposite to the dress is moving in the opposite direction so that the resultant motion with respect to the dress is Zero.
  • the belt retaining system produces a L substantially radial compression of the folds of the dress, regardless of their shape or size.
  • the relative dimensions of the stepped pulleys IIO and II2 are such that successive belt groups are driven at a slightly higher speed than the preceding ones.
  • the intermediate belt group I I I travels slightly faster than the rear belt group 51 and 58, and front belt group I I3 travels slightly faster than belt group III. It will thus be noted that the belt groups farthest away from the center or cutting station of the dress run at slightly higher speeds. By a proper selection of the speeds and positions of these retaining belts, very satisfactory results can be secured under all operating conditions.
  • the belt groups III and II3 are preferably elastic to simplify the problem of keeping them tight.
  • the numeral 65 represents a cup or receptacle adapted to contain a light powder 233 and arranged above the upper plate 59 of the cutter carriage and provided in thelower part of its side wall facing the drum 61 with an outlet 65
  • the bottom 652 of this container slopes toward the outlet thereof so as to direct the powder to said outlet.
  • This container is supported on the plate 59 by a post 66 rising from said plate and passing through a lug 230 on the outer side of the container on which the latter may be adjusted ver- CTL tically and held in place by a set screw ISU.
  • the powder is withdrawn from the container by a marking wheel 64 which with one part 0f its periphery enters the outlet 65 to withdraw the powder while the diametrically opposite part thereof is adapted to engage the outer side of the dress on the guard 61 above the trimming line.
  • This marking wheel is held against vertical movement between upper and lower brackets 64I, 642 arranged on the adjacent part of the powder container 65. Rotation of this marking wheel is affected by an upright shaft 63 journaled in a bearing on the plate 59 provided at its lower end with a gear wheel 50 which meshes with a gear wheel 6I secured to the upper end of the cutter shaft 5i).
  • of the marker shaft is square or 0f other non-circular form and passes through a correspondingly shaped hole in the center of the marking wheel and through the adjacent parts of the brackets 64I, 642, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4. As the container and marking wheel are shifted vertically a driving connection is maintained between this wheel and shaft.
  • the post 66 may be provided with graduations, as shown, to facilitate adjust ment of the marking apparatus for Varying the position of the mark relative to the lower edge of the dress for producing a hem of any desired width.
  • a garment supporting stanchion having a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, and a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, of a fixed tubular member secured within said tubular column and having the upper portion thereof extending into said vertically adjustable tubular member, a cylindrical wedge member having a mitered lower end fitting over the correspondingly mitered upper end of 4said fixed tubular member, an operating rod secured to said wedge member, a resilient member associated with said rod for urging said wedge member into frictional locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member, and manually operated means for manipulating said rod to release said wedge member from locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member.
  • a garment supporting stanchion including, a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, a fixed tubular member secured within said tubular column and having the upper porti-on thereof extending into said vertically adjustable vtubular member, a cylindrical wedge member having a mitered lower end fitting over the correspondingly mitered upper end of said fixed tubular member, and means for manipulating said wedge member into and out of frictional locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member.
  • a base In a garment trimming machine, a base, a tubular column xed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telesooping into said tubular column, a garment form, means for securing said garment form to the upper end of said tubular member, a member having a tubular wall supported on said column around which the lower portion of the garment may drape, a cutting disc adjacent said tubular wall, markings on said tubular member indicating the length of the garment supported on said form relative to the position of said cutting disc, and means for releasably securing said tubular member in predetermined vertically adjusted position.
  • a garment supporting stanchion adapted for association with a garment trimming machine including, a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, a ixed tubular member ⁇ secured within said tubular column and having the upper portion thereof extending into said vertically adjustable tubular member, a cylindrical wedge member having a mitered lower end tting over the correspondingly mitered upper end of said fixed tubular member, an operating rod secured to said wedge member, a collar secured within the lower end of said xed tubular member through which the end of said rod extends, a collar secured to the end of said rod, a coil spring seated between said collars operative to exert a downward pull on said rod and urge said wedge member into frictional locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member, and a manually operated foot lever for lifting said rod t-o release said Wedge member from locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member.
  • a garment trimming machine having a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, and a garment form supported on said tubular member, of means for detachably securing said garment form to the upper end ⁇ of said tubular member, said means including a supporting plate secured tothe upper end of said tubular member, a conical knob portion projecting upwardly from said plate, a plate secured to the lower end of said garment form adapted to rest on said supporting plate and having a centering aperture through which said conical knob portion extends, and cooperating interlocking means associated with said plates eiective to lock and unlock said plates together upon relative rotation thereof.
  • a garment supporting stanchion having a base, a supporting post supporte-d by said base, a garment form supported on said post, and means for detachably securing said garment form to said post, said means including a supporting plate secured to the upper end of said post, a knob formation projecting upwardly from said plate, a plate secured to the lower end of said garment form adapted to rest on said supporting plate and having a centering aperture through which said k'nob formation extends, and cooperating locking means associated with said plates effective to lock together and unlock said plates upon relative rotation thereof.
  • a garment trimming machine having a base, a tubular column xed to said base, garment cutting mechanism supported by said column, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubuiar column, and a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, of a xed tubular member secured within said tubular column and having the upper portion thereof extending into said vertically adjustable tubular member, a Wedge member having a miteredV surface tting Iover a correspondingly mitered surface at the upper end of said fixed tubular member, an operating rod having the upper end thereof secured to said wedge member, a resilient member supported by said rod and engaging a xed abutment, said resilient member being operative to urge said wedge member into frictional locking engagement With said vertically adjustable member, and a foot pedal for manipulating said rod to release said wedge member from locking engagement with said vertically adjustable member.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

June 15, 1943. n. LEHDE 2,321,331
GARMENT TRIMMING MACHINE o'riginal Filed March 2, l19u10 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 I IIHli 4l-)elnnf Lende June 15, 1943. H EHDE 2,321,831
GARMENT TRIMMING MACHINE Original Filed March 2, 19410v 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Inv@ vflbr June 15, 1943. H. LEHDE: 2,321,831
` y GARMIENT TRIMMING MACHINE Original Filed March 2, 1940 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Henn( EN HH-orvxeq Patented June 15, 1943 GARMENTTRIMMING MACHINE' Henry helada-Brooklyn, N. Y., assignor to .Samuel Shefsky and Louis Levy, Brooklymand. Philip L'. Rudick, New York, N. Y.
Original application March 2,; 1940, Serial'No.
321,894. Divided and this application December 2,1941, Serial No. 421,297 f '7 Claims.
This invention relates to improvements in dress or garment trimming machinesv and provides `a fully automaticV device for quickly and accurately trimming ythe bottomv of a dress or-the like to a straight line at any desired length, while it is on a dress form, this operation being commonly known as sloping.
This application is a division of my application Ser. No. 321,894, led March 2, 1940, for Garment trimming machine, and is, in part, a continuation of my application iiled'October '7, 1939, Ser. No. 298,434, noW Pat. No. 2,192,446, grantedA March 5, 1940.
, One object'of the invention is to make it unnecessary to measure the length of the dress being eut, `it being possible to cut anydesired length of dress byk a simple` adjusting means.l
Another vobject is to eliminate anynecessity for the operator to adjust the bottom of the dress in any Way or to prepare it for the cutting operation, regardless of the type of `dress material, orthe size, shape and number ofl folds in the dress.
Another object is to make the operationl of the machine completely automatic upon simply pressinga foot pedal and to eliminate all necessity for the-operator to bend over to operate-the-machine.
A further object is to provide a-quick andsimple means for interchanging various sizes of dress forms on the machine, so that it may be conveniently used where a wide range of dress sizes are handled.
An additional objectis to .provide av marking device of this character Whichenables marking of the dress at any desired distance above the cut, and thereby assists in making an accurate hem.
Referring to the drawings,
Fig. 1- isa vertical section of the completein'- vention.-
Fig. 2 is a horizontal section taken on line 2 2, Fig. 1, but; showing the forrny removed and the form holding meansin an unlocked. position.
Fig. 3 is a horizontal section taken on the correspendingly numbered line in Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged vertical section of the cutting assembly shown at the left in Fig. 1.
Fig. 5 is a fragmentary horizontal section, on an enlarged scale, taken on line 5-5 in Fig. 1.
Fig. 6 is a fragmentary vertical section,ron` an enlarged scale, taken on. line 6 6, Fig. 1.
In Fig. 1 a hollow central columnv |61is fitted to a base I5 'forming the main frameofthemachine. A tube 99 is fastenedywithin the column I6 .and a hollow plug |21V is fastenedwithin the lowerend of this tube. A rod-891s threaded at its lower end; and passes through theplug |21 and above `the plugj |21, anut 991s placed'onzthis rodand below thsplugais placed the lassembly ofa washer-94,42. spring Blbetween the plug |21 and washerr 84 anda nutl 85 on thisrod-,below the washen 84: The nutf95 is Aforthepurpose of adjustingthe downward pressure: ofthe spring .83 exertedr on the rod 86. Aofoot: lever `9 having a pedal-isapivoted'onY the=base by `a pin 4|. The upper vend of thetubef-has a`.beve1\99| which is-in contact'with thebevely 92| ofa wedge 92, which isvfastened'to the upper end'of the rod 86.-; Aftube 9|, which'suppor-ts -a dress formY lill, is .slidingly fitted over thestube S10-and the wedge 92. Normally this wedge-is pulleddown against the beveled surface 99| :of theetube 90eby the spr-ing 83,- and exertsa side pressure fof-theftube 99 and' wedge 92l against-the insideof the tube 9|.. Thispressure holds the tube 9| 'andfthe attached -dress form IUI v-at a fixed height. When the. pedal -ofthe foot `lever 9*is depressed, the rod 86 is lifted; compressingthespring; 83 and raisingthe wedge 92.. Thestube-flV isthen released. and. the dress forml |9| canbe raised or lowered. to-any desired height.- lfteleasingV the footoperated lever 9 causes the wedge92-tohold the dress-form at this height due tothe-clamping action of the tube 9U and wedge 92-against the tube 9|.. On the tube 9| isf a1 collarI |93A having aknob |92, Which collar can be fastened tov this tubeat any.` desiredeposition, and when the dress form |0| is lowereduntil the collar |33 rests upon the upper endof. the frame-column I6, the height of. thedress formll is denitely established. Thus, the graduatedl marksindicated at I ZGfupon the .tube` 9|` can be..used in connectionwit-h the collarr |03-, to` indicate thelength., to whichthe dress |.|5 will be cutby the shearing'edges 62 and 68f'of a cutter vmechanismwhicl'l Will-belater described.,
On the underside. or base` ofthe dress. form lill is mounted alargewasherI or attaching plate 99to the lower kside ofwhich is fastened4 a shoulder ring 98;r Thisring is rotatablymounted on the upper. side of. theplate 91,'which isattached Vto v,tube 9 I ,this tubeloeing4 providedv axiallyv with an upwardly projectingl centering stem or knob |00. On the circumferential part of the plate 91 are pivoted. four slottedvlatches or cams 96; These areturned by fourpins or studs 95y one, plate 94 rotatably mounted on' theY tube 9|, these pins engaging'. with slots `95|. in the Y outer ends of the latchesf96. When-theplate 94 is rotatedion the tube 9| iny a direetionrto move the inner ends of latches-or--cams 96 away fromtheaxis ofthe-knob 00,- these latches .96assumethe; position. shown in Fig. 2, in which their inner ends clear the path of the ring 98 and permit the latter to be placed on the plate 91. As shown in Fig. 1, the latches 96 are spaced a short distance above the plate 91. If the latches are now rotated by turning the ring 94 to the left from the position shown in Fig. 1, the inner ends of the latches will overlap the edge of the ring 98, and lock the same in place on the plate 91. By tting the ring 99 loosely between the plate 91 and latches 96 the dress form can be rotated conveniently by the operator.
Thus, a series of dress forms of various sizes, each equipped with a ring 98, can be quickly attached to or detached from the supporting plate 91 by manipulating the shifting plate 94. To control the motion of this shifting plate, a vstationary plate 93 is fastened to the upper part of the tube 9|, beneath the plate 94 and the latter is provided with a stop pin or stud |25 which extends into a wide notch or slot |24 formed in as the stud |25 moves from one side of the dead center to the other relative to stud |23. This assures that when the plate 94 is operated, the latches 96 will remain in a completely closed or a completely open position.
A drum-shaped casting 69 is fastened to the central column I6 and a shearing ring or annular cutter 68 is clamped between the top of this drum and a retaining or clamping ring 19 by means of screws 19|. When the dress form |9I is adjusted to the proper height by setting the collar |93 as described, the dress ||5 is placed on the form and allowed to hang over the edge of the shearing ring 68. An upwardly tapering conical guard 61 is attached to the clamping ring 19, which engages the inner side of the folds of the dress and causes them to fall clear of the top of the clamping ring 19.
Directly beneath the drum 69 a freely rotating turret or supporting gear wheel I1 is mounted upon the column I6 and held in position thereon by collars 2| and 25 secured to the column. Two spaced horizontal guide bars or arms 3| and 32 are mounted in guides 11 and 18`on the rear wheel I 1 so as to slide radially thereon, as shown in Fig. 3. Normally these arms and the associated cutting assembly mounted at their outer ends are urged outwardly or to the left in the drawings, by the springs 12 and'13 shown with their center sections broken out in Fig. 3. These springs are attached at one end to a spacer bar 19, fastened to the rear ends of the bars 3| and 32 and at their other ends they are attached to a bar 14, which is rigidly attached to the gear I1 by extension bars 15and 16 and a bracket 16| Mounted on the hub 24 of the gear |1 are two pulleys I9 and 29, see Fig. 6, each of which has a separate length of cable 22 and 23 looped around it. The upper ends of these cables are clamped to an equalizer bar 29, vattached to a bolt 39. The latter is attached to the underside of a plate 41, Fig. 4, forming part of the cutter assembly. Any inward pull on the equalizer bar 29 will slide the horizontal bars 3| and 32 inwardly stretching the springs 12 and 13. The
clamped to diametrically opposite points of upper and lower rings 26, 28 forming parts of a yoke or swivel head which slides vertically on the column 6. The upper and lower rings 26 and 29 are fastened together and a middle ring 21 is recessed into the lower ring and free to rotate between the upper and lower rings. To the. upper ring 26 are attached two upright rods or studs 81 and 88 which extend through holes in the gear I1 and compel the rings 26 and 28 to rotate with this gear. Two studs I9 and I I are attached at their upper ends to the middle ring 21, and extend through holes in a guide collar 45 secured to the column |6, thereby preventing the ring 21 from rotation. The studs I9 and |I are fastened at their lower ends to a guide plate I4, which surrounds the column I6. Near their lower ends the studs I9, are pivotally secured to the two sections of a foot lever I I1 by the studs I2 and I3. The foot lever |I1 is pivoted at its rear end to the upper ends of the members of a link |I6 which is in turn pivoted at its lower end to the base I5. A downward motion of the foot lever |I1 is transmitted to the yoke or swivel and to the cables 22 and 23, which pull the horizontal arm or bar assembly against the pull exerted by springs 12 and 13. Upon releasing the lever ||1 the horizontal arm or bar assembly is drawn outwardly by these springs, and the lever ||1 is lifted.
Part of the cutting mechanism includes the rotary blade or shearing disc 62 which cooperates with the horizontal shearing ring 68 and moves bodily around the garment support in the manner of a planet and is mounted on the outer endsof the horizontal bars or arms 3| and 32. The cutter shaft 59 which carries the cutter disc 62 rotates in bearings 41|, 48|, formed on the plate 41 and an upper plate 48 connected with this lower plate by upright posts or spacers 5I, 52, 53, as shown in Figs. l, 3 and 4. The lower plate 41 is attached to the bars or arms 3| and 32. Below the shearing disc 62 the cutter shaft 59 is provided with a sprocket wheel |33 and between the lower and upper plates 41, 48 of the supporting carriage this shaft is provided with a friction drive wheel or pinion 46. As the cutting mechanism moves inwardly by action of the foot lever I I1, the friction wheel 46 engages with a rubber tire 1| on the rim 1|| forming the base of the drum 69. At the same time the shearing disc 62 is moved inwardly just below theedge of the shearing ring 68. Further motion of the foot lever I|1 lifts the disc 62, which is normally held downward by the spring 49 interposed between the upper carriage plate 48 and the friction driving wheel 46 and causes the shearing disc 62 to engage with the shearing ring 68. This is accomplished by the mechanism attached to the equalizer bar 29 which is constructed as follows:
At its center the equalizer bar 29 is provided .with a bolt 39, which is pivoted on a lug 49. The
latter is attached to the elbow lever 35 which is pivoted on a pin 36, supported by the studs |28 and |29, which are fastened to the lower side of plate 41. Below the lower arm of the lever 35 is arranged a leaf |3|, which is normally pressed against the lever 35 by a compression spring |32 interposed between the upper side of the lower arm of this lever and the upper end of a bolt 31 which has its lower end connected with this plate. When an inward pull is exerted on the equalizer bar 29, the leaf I3I exerts an upward pressure on the square bushing 34 which rests on thisleaf and engages with a slot 23| at the end of the lower arm ofthelever.35.- Thebushing 34-acts1 as ar thrust bearing tor transmit the upward force to the-combination collar and studi 39; which-'isY adjustablymounted on thecutter shaft 50'by providi'ng the uper end of the studv 39 a screwv thread which engages with athreadedaopening in the lowerend of the cutter shaft and thereby 'enables the effective length of this-shaft to be in-v creased or decreased. After adjustment the stud is -heldinplace against rotation on the-cutter shaft50 by means ofthe lock nut 38; The-stop plate 33 mounted onthe underside of the carriage plate 41 is adaptedfto. be engaged bythe lower arm-of thelever 35 and thereby limit the downwardmotion of lever 35.v f
During the initial part Aof thedownward movement of thefoot lever tomove the cutter carriage-inwardly together with the-horizontal bars horizontal arms 3|A and 32 is arrested and during the continued downward lmovement of the lfoot lever I I1 a sufcient force-is exerted by the elbowlever 35 andthe leafl I3I to lift the shaft 56l and the disc 62 to overcome the spring pressure exerted by 49. The cutter disc- 62 is then engaged with the cutter ring 63.Y Additional motion of the foot-lever I|1rand the elbow lever 35 will thencause the latterfto separate from leaf I3I and compress the spring |32, as shown in Fig. 4.
The springs 12, 13, |32and 49 are so selected andA adjustedthat av steadilyv increasing force applied to the equalizer bar 29 will first stretch the weakest springs 12 and 13. Then when this motion is arrested by the friction wheel 46 striking the rubber tire 1I, the spring 49, being the next stronger, will be compressed to allow liftingof the shearing disc 62.v Finally when the shearing. disc. 62 strikes the shearing ring 68, the strongest spring |32 is compressed to maintain a steady and uniform pressure between the shearing edges1 of the'disc 62 and ring- 69 regardless of wear of the edges or inaccuracies in alignment of these members or parts associated therewith.
Simultaneously with the compression of the spring |32, the bolt IES adjustably mounted on the foot lever I I1 strikes the push button switch 44 and the lever H9, which holds the bolt |I8 on the foot lever |I1, is pressed against the latter by a spring |20. This spring allows additional motion of the foot lever |I1 after the switch 44 has been closed. The operation of the vswitch 44 starts the motor 80, which drives the gear I1 by means of the pinion 82. The latter is not directly connected to the motor shaft, but is driven through a friction clutch 8|, which is adjusted to slip if themechanism jams and the torque delivered by the motor exceeds a safe value.
The motor 80 is supported on the main frame of the machine by the bracket 43, which is in turn fastened to the column I6 lby the U-bolt 42 and the collar 45.
The rotation of gear I1 by the motor 86 causes the cutting assembly to swing around the dress. The friction wheel 46, being in contact with the tire 1I, is rotated onits axis and drives the shearing disc 62, while theA assembly as a Whole is. moving ,around` the drum 69. Since-thelower edge-of the drum- 69 4is of larger diameter-than the shearing-ring 68, andl since the shearing disc 62 is of larger diameter than thefriction wheel 46 the shearing disc 62 is `rotated -at a relatively higher peripheral speed. Thus, itA effects a wiping cutting action in additionfto theshearing action it would have if it-merely rolled-'around `the shearing ring 68.
To assist-in starting the shearing action,A theshearing edges of 62-'andv 60 are slightly in- Asshown in Fig. 6, the
clined toeach other. upper and lower faces of the gearv I1 -are--not strictly parallel, the upperfface being slanted slightly so-that the gear as seen is thinner at the right-edge-ofFig.- 6.- Thus, the cutting assembly mountedA on, the bars :tI-and 32 is slightly tilted, and the disc 62 is not strictly parallel with the shearing ring 68, thereby-causing thev operative cutting edge portion ofthe shearing .'disc162to be tipped `upwardly-as itapproaches the operative cutting `edge portionl ofI the shearing ring 68, whereby the operative parts ofthese shearing members are held in their most effective relation and a clean cut-ofthe dress is produced for trimmingor sloping the same.
The foot` lever- ||1 is-held down while the shearing disc 62 is traveling around the ring 68, When the-dress trimming operation is complete, thelever |I1 is released, causing the motorto stop and the cutting assembly tov move away from the shearing ring 68.
Smoothing means are yprovided for use in connection withv the cutting assemblyto assure that the pleats andJ folds in` the-dress are brought to the shearing members rintheir natural positions, undisturbed by the motion of the shearing disc 62. Any disarranging of the natural` positions ofthe pleats and folds, except a radial compression-of the folds towards the shearing ring-68, will cause a scalloped or uneven cut. The smooth-ingmechanism to produce this effect is mounted on the plates 48, 5930i the cutter carriage: and constructed Vas follows:
A driving sprocket wheel |33 on the shaft 56 rotates a driven sprocket wheel |06-anda rear retaining. pulley |05 Y connected therewith by means of a chain belt |04 passing around these sprocket wheels, said driven sprocket |06 and pulley being mounted on a shaft206 which is journaled on thel platesl 48, 59 of the cutter carriage. Two belts 51 and 50? pass around the pulley |05 and an intermediate retaining pulley IIOand,-respectively, theidler pulleys 55 and 56. The rear and front retaining pulleys |05, ||0
are arranged in frontand in rear of a lineeXtending from the axis A.of-fthe drum 69 to the axis of the cutter shaft 50 and adjacent to the periphery of this drum. The-idler pulleys 55, 56
are arranged below and above the outer partl of the cutter disc and these idler pulleys are mounted, respectively, on tightening levers |90 of the-pulley I|0 andv is driven from the lattery by the groupV of three intermediate retaining belts II-I'passing around' the pulleys IIE);` II-2 above-'the plane of the cutter members 6.2,v 69; This pulley" |1| 2 Iinlturn. drivesa front f pulley i' H4 by means of a group of three front retaining belts I I3 arranged above the plane of the cutting line, this front pulley being journaled on the foremost part of the plate 48 of the cutter carriage. By this means a system of retaining belts is provided which extends along the periphery of the drum from a point in rear of the cutting station to a point considerably in front of this station and which belts cooperate with the adjacent surface of the drum for holding the dress above the cutting line so that the same is not displaced during the operation of trimming the same by the cutters 62, 68.
As the cutting assembly is moved inwardly prior to beginning the cutting operation, the belts 51 and 58 hold the dress firmly against the drum above and below the shearing ring 68 for a considerable distance aro'und the circumference of the dress and the drum, but the belts III and Il3 do not press throughout their length against the drum but operate mainly to gather the garment inasmuch as they form, with the adjacent part of the drum, a rearwardly converging passage or throat whereby the body of the garment and any pleats therein are held in place and di rected to the cutting station in a proper non-misplaced condition. This is of considerable help in starting the cut and in securing a positive cutting action of the cutters on the dress. As the cutting members begin to rotate, the belts 51, 58, iII and II3 are driven in the direction of the arrows associated with the same in Fig. 2. The speeds of the belts are so determined that there is little or no relative motion between these belts and the dress. Although the cutting assembly is rotating clockwise around the dress, that side of the belt system opposite to the dress is moving in the opposite direction so that the resultant motion with respect to the dress is Zero.
As a result the belt retaining system produces a L substantially radial compression of the folds of the dress, regardless of their shape or size.
The relative dimensions of the stepped pulleys IIO and II2 are such that successive belt groups are driven at a slightly higher speed than the preceding ones. The intermediate belt group I I I travels slightly faster than the rear belt group 51 and 58, and front belt group I I3 travels slightly faster than belt group III. It will thus be noted that the belt groups farthest away from the center or cutting station of the dress run at slightly higher speeds. By a proper selection of the speeds and positions of these retaining belts, very satisfactory results can be secured under all operating conditions. The belt groups III and II3 are preferably elastic to simplify the problem of keeping them tight.
For the purpose of marking the dress to indicate where the same should be folded while hemming the same, means are provided for effecting such marking at the same time the dress is being trimmed, these means being preferably constructed as follows:
The numeral 65 represents a cup or receptacle adapted to contain a light powder 233 and arranged above the upper plate 59 of the cutter carriage and provided in thelower part of its side wall facing the drum 61 with an outlet 65| through which the powder is discharged. The bottom 652 of this container slopes toward the outlet thereof so as to direct the powder to said outlet. This container is supported on the plate 59 by a post 66 rising from said plate and passing through a lug 230 on the outer side of the container on which the latter may be adjusted ver- CTL tically and held in place by a set screw ISU. The powder is withdrawn from the container by a marking wheel 64 which with one part 0f its periphery enters the outlet 65 to withdraw the powder while the diametrically opposite part thereof is adapted to engage the outer side of the dress on the guard 61 above the trimming line. This marking wheel is held against vertical movement between upper and lower brackets 64I, 642 arranged on the adjacent part of the powder container 65. Rotation of this marking wheel is affected by an upright shaft 63 journaled in a bearing on the plate 59 provided at its lower end with a gear wheel 50 which meshes with a gear wheel 6I secured to the upper end of the cutter shaft 5i). The upper part 63| of the marker shaft is square or 0f other non-circular form and passes through a correspondingly shaped hole in the center of the marking wheel and through the adjacent parts of the brackets 64I, 642, as shown in Figs. 1 and 4. As the container and marking wheel are shifted vertically a driving connection is maintained between this wheel and shaft. The post 66 may be provided with graduations, as shown, to facilitate adjust ment of the marking apparatus for Varying the position of the mark relative to the lower edge of the dress for producing a hem of any desired width.
I claim as my invention:
1. In combination with a garment supporting stanchion having a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, and a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, of a fixed tubular member secured within said tubular column and having the upper portion thereof extending into said vertically adjustable tubular member, a cylindrical wedge member having a mitered lower end fitting over the correspondingly mitered upper end of 4said fixed tubular member, an operating rod secured to said wedge member, a resilient member associated with said rod for urging said wedge member into frictional locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member, and manually operated means for manipulating said rod to release said wedge member from locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member.
2. A garment supporting stanchion including, a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, a fixed tubular member secured within said tubular column and having the upper porti-on thereof extending into said vertically adjustable vtubular member, a cylindrical wedge member having a mitered lower end fitting over the correspondingly mitered upper end of said fixed tubular member, and means for manipulating said wedge member into and out of frictional locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member.
3. In a garment trimming machine, a base, a tubular column xed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telesooping into said tubular column, a garment form, means for securing said garment form to the upper end of said tubular member, a member having a tubular wall supported on said column around which the lower portion of the garment may drape, a cutting disc adjacent said tubular wall, markings on said tubular member indicating the length of the garment supported on said form relative to the position of said cutting disc, and means for releasably securing said tubular member in predetermined vertically adjusted position.
4. A garment supporting stanchion adapted for association with a garment trimming machine including, a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, a ixed tubular member` secured within said tubular column and having the upper portion thereof extending into said vertically adjustable tubular member, a cylindrical wedge member having a mitered lower end tting over the correspondingly mitered upper end of said fixed tubular member, an operating rod secured to said wedge member, a collar secured within the lower end of said xed tubular member through which the end of said rod extends, a collar secured to the end of said rod, a coil spring seated between said collars operative to exert a downward pull on said rod and urge said wedge member into frictional locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member, and a manually operated foot lever for lifting said rod t-o release said Wedge member from locking engagement with said vertically adjustable tubular member.
5. In combination with a garment trimming machine having a base, a tubular column fixed to said base, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubular column, and a garment form supported on said tubular member, of means for detachably securing said garment form to the upper end `of said tubular member, said means including a supporting plate secured tothe upper end of said tubular member, a conical knob portion projecting upwardly from said plate, a plate secured to the lower end of said garment form adapted to rest on said supporting plate and having a centering aperture through which said conical knob portion extends, and cooperating interlocking means associated with said plates eiective to lock and unlock said plates together upon relative rotation thereof.
6. In a garment supporting stanchion having a base, a supporting post supporte-d by said base, a garment form supported on said post, and means for detachably securing said garment form to said post, said means including a supporting plate secured to the upper end of said post, a knob formation projecting upwardly from said plate, a plate secured to the lower end of said garment form adapted to rest on said supporting plate and having a centering aperture through which said k'nob formation extends, and cooperating locking means associated with said plates effective to lock together and unlock said plates upon relative rotation thereof.
'7. In combination with a garment trimming machine having a base, a tubular column xed to said base, garment cutting mechanism supported by said column, a vertically adjustable tubular member having the lower end thereof telescoping into said tubuiar column, and a garment form secured to the upper end of said tubular member, of a xed tubular member secured within said tubular column and having the upper portion thereof extending into said vertically adjustable tubular member, a Wedge member having a miteredV surface tting Iover a correspondingly mitered surface at the upper end of said fixed tubular member, an operating rod having the upper end thereof secured to said wedge member, a resilient member supported by said rod and engaging a xed abutment, said resilient member being operative to urge said wedge member into frictional locking engagement With said vertically adjustable member, and a foot pedal for manipulating said rod to release said wedge member from locking engagement with said vertically adjustable member.
HENRY LEI-IDE.
US421297A 1940-03-02 1941-12-02 Garment trimming machine Expired - Lifetime US2321831A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106418853A (en) * 2016-09-20 2017-02-22 王仙法 Double-station seamless wear hot-press compound machine

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106418853A (en) * 2016-09-20 2017-02-22 王仙法 Double-station seamless wear hot-press compound machine

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