US2251178A - Welting and its method of manufacture - Google Patents

Description

y 29, 1941- I w. c. VIZARD 2,251,178

7 WELTING AND ITS METHOD OF MANUFRCTURE I Filed June 20, 1940 Patented July 29, 1941 WELTING AND ITS IWETHOD OF MANUFACTURE William C. Vizard, Brockton, Mass, assignor to Barbour Welting Company, Brockton, Mass, a copartnership composed of Perley E. Barbour, Walter G. Barbour, and Richard H. Barbour Application June 20, 1940, Serial No. 341,467

6 Claims.

This invention relates to welting for shoes, and to its method of manufacture, andmore especially to the production of beaded welting of the type which is provided with a bead extending along its top face between its side edges and adapted to lie closely against the shoe upper when incorporated in a shoe, the bead being formed up from an integral flap of the material of the welting and supported and held in position at the inner edge of the welt extension by an integral part of the flap applied to the inner margin of the base portion of the welting and sewed together therewith in the inseam of the shoe. An example of such welting is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 1,828,728, October 27, 1931, issued to P. 0. Arnold and myself and in certain aspects the present invention may be regarded as an improvement on the invention disclosed in said patent.

In order to raise a bead on the upper face of a strip of welting, while providing sufficient material in the flap to enable the latter to extend over the inner margin of the welting sothat it may be sewed in the inseam of a shoe, the process of forming up the bead in accordance with the prior art must be initiated with a fillet that is wider than the finished welting. Inasmuch as most of the welting is made from relatively expensive grain leather, a great deal of attention has been given in the art to the developnrent of processes of manufacture of beaded welting wherein the width of the fillet from which the welting is fashioned may be reduced as much as possible. I The principal object of the present invention is to bring about savings in stock beyond those possible in previous types of beaded welting and their processes of manufacture.

A feature of the invention resides in a form of beaded welting wherein the fillet from which the welting is fashioned is of no greater width than the Width of the finished product and a further object of the invention is to attain these ends without sacrifice in the amount of the welt extension nor strength of the welt bead or sewing edge.

To these and other ends the invention resides in the novel features and combination of parts to be fully described hereinafter.

In the drawing,

Figures 1, 2 and 3 are views, in perspective, illustrating the first, second and third cutting, respectively, in the welt strip;

Figure 4 is a view, in perspective, showing the bead of the Welt partly folded, with the head core in its ultimate position before final molding, and

Figure 5 is a view, in perspective, of the fin-- ished welting.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing, the welt strip I0 is proalso applicable to welting formed of other welting materials. In accordance with the invention the fillet from which the welting is formed will have a width no greater than that of the finished welting. Thus in the present instance the process of manufacture will be initiated with a square edged fillet inch in width.

Three cutting operations are performed longitudinally of the strip in sequence, as illustrated in Figures 1, 2 and 3. In describing these cuts, those towards the grain face will be called upwardjf those towards the outer edge outward and those towards the inner edge inward. The first cutting (Figure 1) comprises an oblique slit l3 leading upwardly and outwardly from a point near the lower corner I 4 of the inner or sewing edge l5 to a point about A; of an inch from said edge and of an inch from the grain face II. The cut is then continued at I6 from its upper edge parallel to the grain face II and towards the outer edge I! of the strip, forming a flap l8 joined to the strip along a line centrally of the Width thereof. It will be observed that the cut l3 leaves an inner or free end IS on the flap which is of wedge-like shape of an inch from the inner edge l5 in an inwarddirection towards said edge and at an oblique angle to the surface II, the out terminating at a point about of an inch from the grain face H and of an inch from the edge I5. It will be noted that the cut 2H form's an outwardly extending integral lip 2! on the upper inner edge of the flap which lip, as Will appear hereinafter, may be swung towards the inner edge I5 to form an inseam lip as a continuation of the flap 8.

The third cutting (Figure 3) consists in the formation of a rounded upper corner 22 on the inner edge iii of the strip, the arcuate cutting edge of the knife making the cut removing a string 23 from the corner, the radius of the out being of an inch with its center at the inner end of the out 20. The removal of the string 23 leaves the lip 2| joined to the fiap with a portion of an inch in thickness, the lip being of decreased thickness towards its free end.

Upon completion of the cuts described above the welting is ready for forming up of the bead and it will be observed that the flap from which the bead is to be formed consists of a part joined to the body of the strip along a line centrally of its width, the flap extending inwardly of the strip to the inner edge thereof and the thickened portion of the flap at the inner edge l forming a triangular, sectioned core for the bead, and the outer margin of said fiap forming a cover strip for the bead core.

During the forming up of the bead, the flap is opened from the body of the strip and the inner surfaces of the flap and body of the strip are coated with cement whereupon the flap may be folded, the core l9 being seated with its heel 24 on the shelf 25 formed on the body of the welting by the cut IS. The forming up of the bead may be assisted by first passing the welt strip through a molding machine prior to application of the cement, such pre-molding forming up the elements so that the bead will stand correctly for further molding after application of the cement, the second molding pressing the cemented surfaces together into the condition shown in Figure 4.

After forming up of the bead, the grain surface 26 of the lip 2| may be coated with cement as may the beveled surface 21 at the inner margin of the body of the Welt strip, the lip being folded inwardly with respect to the strip and pressed downwardly into contact with the surface 21. Except for the channel 28 for the inseam stitches, the welting is now ready for use in the manufacture of shoes. The channel may be made' in the bottom or flesh side of the welting after forming up of the bead or may be made prior to the cutting operations for formation of the fiap.

It will be understood that the dimensions given above relate to the proportions of inch welting and that these may be varied by those skilled in the art to suit the particular demands of a shoe manufacturer. Moreover, the size of the bead may be varied by changes in the size of the bead core which may be conveniently brought about by starting the cut I 3 higher or lower in the edge 15 of the strip. Thus while a specific embodiment of the invention is described herein in detail it will be understood that the same is capable of variation and modification within the scope of the appended claims.

It will also be evident that when a grain fillet is utilized, as preferred in making the improved beaded shoe welting, the welt extension and the outer face of the bead present grain surfaces; whereas the inner face of the bead and the exposed surface of the lip cemented to the beveled inner edge of the body portion, are ungrained. The ungrained surfaces will, of course, be concealed when this welting is built into a shoe, so that the appearance of the welt is not impaired. Furthermore, any imperfection in the surface appearance of the welting itself is more than offset by the substantial economies resulting from the production of a satisfactory beaded welting from a grain fillet no wider than the finished welt.

What is claimed is:

1. Beaded shoe welting made from a grain leather fillet no wider than the finished welt, comprising a body portion having an outer, grainsurfaced welt extension and a beveled, flesh-surfaced inner'edge, a flap portion integral with the body and folded upon itself to provide a bead extending longitudinally between the inner edge of the welt extension and said beveled edge, and a lip portion incised from and integral with the flap portion having its grain surface applied and cemented to said beveled edge, the exposed face of the lip and the inner side of the bead presenting ungrained surfaces and the outer side of the bead presenting a grain surface.

2. The method of making beaded welting which comprises slitting a fillet of welting leather along its inner edge outwardly between the upper and lower faces of the fillet to form a flap, forming a relatively thin lip along the inner end of the fiap by an incision in the upper face of the fiap extending inwardly towards the imier free edge of the latter, folding the flap between its ends to form a bead, folding the incised lip portion of the flap inwardly and downwardly, and applying said lip to the inner margin of the body of the Welt.

3. The method of making beaded welting which comprises slitting a fillet of welting leather along its inner edge outwardly between the upper and lower faces of the fillet to form a flap, forming a lip on the inner end of the flap by an incision in the upper face of the flap extending diagonally downwardly towards the inner free end of the latter, folding the fiap between its ends to form a bead, folding the lip downwardly away from the bead, and applying the lip to the inner margin of the welt body.

4. The method of making beaded welting which comprises slittinga fillet of welting leather longitudinally at its inner edge to form a bead core and a cover strip connecting the core to the body of the fillet, slitting the core at its upper face in an inward direction to form an inseam lip, folding the core within the cover strip and applying the lip to the inner margin of the fillet body.

5. The method of making beaded welting which comprises slitting a fillet of welting leather longitudinally at its inner edge to form a triangular bead core, a beveled sewing edge on the flesh portion of the body and a cover strip connecting the core to the body of the fillet, slitting the fillet in its upper face above the bead core in an inward direction to form an inseam lip, folding the core within the cover strip and applying the lip to the beveled sewing edge.

6. The method of making beaded welting which comprises slitting a fillet of welting leather longitudinally at its inner edge to form a triangular bead core, a beveled sewing edge on the flesh form an inseam lip, folding the core within the cover strip and applying the lip to the beveled sewing edge.

WILLIAM C. VIZARD.

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