US2199400A - Fabric construction - Google Patents

Description

May 7, 1940. E. c. GEIER ET AL FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Filed Sept. 22. 1938 Fig. 5.

IN VENTOR. ERNEST c.6515? JOHN 2;

ATTORNEYS .Yf/ x A Egg.

Patented May 7, 1940 UNITED STATES FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Ernest C. Geier, White Plains, N. Y., and John Haesler, Teaneck, N. J., assignors to Duplan Silk Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of Delaware Application September 22, 1938, Serial No. 231,156

4 Claims.

The present invention relates to a fabric construction and particularly relates to a fabric and yarn construction which may be composed in whole or part of rayon and cellulose acetate yarns.

Although in certain instances, natural silk, cotton, linen, wool and other yarns may be employed in the yarns or fabrics of the present invention, the present invention will be particularly described in connection with its application to fabrics composed of multi-filament rayon, cellulose acetate or other synthetic yarns.

Many fabrics woven in whole or part of synthetic yarns have a rather crisp or harsh filling and for many purposes it is desired to have fab-' rics having a relatively soft texture and also to a slight degree having a woolly or tweedy feel or hand.

It is therefore, among the objects of the present invention to provide improved fabrics woven therefrom which will have a relatively woolly or soft feel and texture without substantial added expense.

Another object is to provide an improved fabric woven therefrom composed wholly or in part of synthetic yarns.

Other objects will be obvious or will appear during the course of the following specification.

In accomplishing the above objects, it has been found most satisfactory to combine together a creping yarn having a relatively high twist, and a relatively low twist multi filament synthetic yarn, the fibers of which in part have been cut at spaced intervals so as to give rise to a fuzz.

The creping yarn may be composed of high twist natural silk having from to '75 turns twist, but more preferably it may be composed of a to 300 deniers, 15 to 100 filament synthetic rayon yarn which yarn may be of the viscose type, the cupra-ammonium type or it may be derived from nitro-cellulose.

The low twist yarn may be readily composed of either a multi filament rayon yarn or a multi filament acetate yarn having from 20 to 200 filaments, a minor portion of which filaments being cut at frequent intervals.

In one preferred construction, the filaments are cut so that there will be 1 to 5 projecting portions or filaments per inch having an average projection of to 1 inch.

To give several examples to which the present invention is by no means restricted, a fabric may be woven having both a warp and filling composed of a yarn including bright viscose and dull acetate twisted together at 15 turns right.

The bright viscose yarn may be 100 denier, 60 filament, 55 turns right while the dull acetate maybe of 150 denier, 40 filament, 2 to 10 turns right twist.

If desired, this combined yarn may be used solely for the warp or solely for the filler and also may be combined with corresponding left twist yarns in either the warp or the filling or it may be altogether replaced by corresponding left twist yarn.

When the woven fabric is boiled off and finished, the crepin yarns appear to pull up the acetate or low twist rayon yarns to form a fabric having a fuzzy, wooly hand, the bulk-of which appears to consist of the relatively low twist acetate yarns which apparently are in floating or semi floating condition and spirally encircled by the creping yarns.

The filaments of the low twist yarns appear to separate, while those in'the high twist appear to be closely compacted in the final fabric.

As another example, it is possible to utilize the combination of a 4 thread 20/22 crepe silk having 65 turns right twist combined with an abraded 100 denier filament rayon having 2 to 10 turns right twist. I

The last mentioned yarn may be used for either the warp or the filling or for both and it may be combined, if desired, with other types of yarns such as those disclosed in the first example or even spun yarns of staple rayon, staple acetate, spun silk, cotton, filament, silk, wool, linen, and so forth.

As a third example, a '75 denier 30 filament viscose crepe having turns right twist may be combined with a denier, 60 filament 5 turn left twist rayon yarn which has been abraded or cut so as to have a fuzz thereon.

As a fourth example, a '75 denier, filament viscose crepe yarn of 55 turns right may be plied with a 100 denier, 40 filament, 5 to 10 turns right by a united twisting of 10 to 25 turns right.

In all cases, the yarn and fabric woven therefrom has a particularly novel hand and softness of texture which is highly desirable which differs quite substantially from the usual type of rayon or cellulose acetate yarns or fabrics woven therefrom.

The yarns, above described, may be alsocombined with thick and thin yarns which are produced by irregularly increasing the diameter of the filament in the forming or spinning operation and these thick and thin yarns may be used either as creping yarns or as the abraded yarns.

Although the invention was described in connection with two ply yarns, it is obvious that it might be applied to three, four or more ply yarns in which the number of abraded or cut strands may vary from one to three or more while the number of creping strands or plies may vary from one to three or more.

As examples of such yarns, a 150 denier, 40

- filament, 8 turn right abraded acetate yarn may be combined with 150 denier, 60 filament, 3 turns right abraded viscose yarn, these two yarns being combined by 2 turns right. This combined yarn may then be further combined with 100 denier, 60 filament, 55 turn right viscose crepe yarn by a 10 turn right united twisting.

As a further example, a '75 denier, 45 filament, 57 turn left viscose rayon, yarn may be combined with 150 denier, 46 filament, 1% turn left abraded acetate yarn by 12 turns left united twisting, and the combined yarn may then be further combined with a 75 denier, 45 filament, 60 turn right viscose yarn by turns right twisting.

On the accompanying drawing is shown diagrammatically, a yarn construction according to the present application, Figure 1 illustrating an elevation of a yarn section upon enlarged scale in unabraded condition; Figure 2 illustrating a similar section in abraded condition and Figure 3 illustrating the yarn of Figure 2 doubled or twisted with a creping yarn, which creping yarn is unabraded.

The yarn, as shown in Figure 1, normally has The novel appearance is given to the yarn by the short outstanding fibers I2, which are uniformly spaced and which in the united yarn of Figure 3 do not readily become loose and form a fly.

It is apparent that the specific illustrations shown above have been given by way of illustration and not by way of limitation and that the structures above described are subject to wide variation and modification without departing from the scope or intent of the invention, all of which variations and modifications are to be included within the scope of the present invention.

What is claimed is:

1. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture and a wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction comprising a low twist combination of a 100 denier, 60 filament, 55 right twist bright viscose rayon and an abraded 150 denier, 40 filament between 2 and right twist cellulose acetate.

2. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture and a wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction comprising a low twist combination of a 4 thread 20/22, 65 right twist crepe silk and a 100 denier, 60 filament, between 2%, and 10 right twist abraded rayon.

3. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture and a wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction comprising a low twist combination of a '75 denier, filament. 65 right twist crepe viscose rayon and a 100 denier, 60 filament between 2 and 10 twist left abraded rayon.

4. For use in making a woven fabric having a relatively soft texture and also a wooly or tweedy hand or feel, a yarn construction composed of a creping yarn having from 45 to 75 turns twist and a multi filament low twist rayon yarn having from 20 to 200 filaments, at least a minor portion of which filaments are cut at frequent intervals with the result there will be at least 1 to 5 projecting filament ,ends per inch having at least an average projection of A; to 1 inch.

ERNEST C. GEIER. JOHN HAESLER.

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