US2157373A - Thread handling device for sewing machines - Google Patents

Description

May 9, 1939. J. P. WElS THREAD HANDLING DEVICE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Dec. 29, 1956 7 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR JOH/VP #4215 y 9, 1939- r J. P. WElS 2,157,373

THREAD HANDLING DEVICE FOR SEWING, MACHINES Filed Dec. 29, 1936 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 May 9, 1939. v was 2,157,373

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THREAD HANDLING DEVICE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Dec. 29, 19 36 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 y 9, 1939- J. P. was

THREAD HANDLING DEVICE FOR SEWING M ACHINES I Filed Dec. 29, 1936 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR Z EBMEY y 9, 9- J. P. was 2,157,373-

THREAD HANDLING DEVICE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Dec. 29, 1936 7 Sheets-Shgt? Patented May 9, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE THREAD HANDLING DEVICE FOR SEWING MACHINES Application December 29, 1936, Serial No. 118,061 25 Claims. (01. 112-162 This invention relates to improvements in thread handling devices for sewing machines, particularly overedge sewing machines. The present application is a continuation in part of my copending application, Serial No. 11,488 filed March 16, 1935.

Overedge sewing machines of various types are now in general use in many diilerent trades. Even though most of these machines form a satisfactory overedge seam, usually separate machines are required for single, double, and triple overedge seams, and usually each has one or more design or operation shortcomings' It is an important object of the present invention to provide a single overedge sewing machine having thread handling devices equally capable of sewing single, double, or triple thread overedge seams and to form different types of double and triple thread seams (e. g. Federal standard stitches 501, 502, 503, 504, and 505), Heretofore it has been customary to provide, purchase, and use separate machines for single, double, and

' triple thread overedge seam.requi-rements, thusnecessitating a very substantial and in some instances prohibitive investment in sewing machines, and resulting in both idle and overtaxed conditions with each type of machine, dependent upon the seam requirements in daily runs of work.

In overcoming these disadvantages and in meeting this object, the presentinvention provides a single sewing machine capable of forming single, double, and triple thread stitches, with novel thread handling devices and extremely simple stitch forming mechanism wherein it is necessary only to replace the loopers and none of .the other operating parts when changing from one to the other of single, double, or triple thread stitches, and to merely regulate the thread handling devices when it is desired to alter the type of double or triple thread seam.

ill

In many of the previously proposed overedge sewing machines, especially in the two and three thread machines, the needle and looper are inaccessible and thereby impede threading. Also,

in many such previous machines it was necessary to pass the thread through devious paths and guides which produce adverse and breaking strains on the threads and make it hard for the operator to observe whether threads are broken, tangled, Or if they are properly tensioned.

It is an object of the present invention to provide an overedge sewing machine which may be initially threaded with ease, which will pass the threads through short direct paths to the needle and loopers, and will pass the threads through a localized and easily viewed portion of the machine.

With many prior overedge sewing machines considerable difliculty is encountered in properly tensioning the threads relative to, the inter-related needle and loopers during their travel relative to each other, and to the loops of the stitch. Another disadvantage is that in most machines great inconvenience is experienced in threading the lower looper; a lifting of the work plate or a partial disassembly of the machine being required.

It is astill further object of the present invention to obviate or to lessen these shortcomings.

Features of the improved threading and the thread devices or controls provided by the present invention include: structure making possible advantageous production of one, two, and three thread forms of overedge stitches in the same machine; very open and easily accessible thread guides; a plurality of thread guides movable relatively to each other, which, with only one movable 'member, are adapted to manipulate the threads to an ususual degree; a simple structural arrangement, for lightly lubricating the threads; 9. form of thread guide adapted to slide exteriorly of the enclosed. frame for threading and to slide within the frame in back of the looper; a curved puller member over which the needle pulls its own thread, the curve of which in relation to needle travel may be changed readily to alter and improve the stitch formation; a threading arrangement wherein all the threads travel from one side of the machine in a small path and in the same direction across the top of the machine so that the operator need look at only one point to be sure that threads are not broken and are feeding properly; an unusual tension which by a simple easy push, changes the stitch formation from one type seam to another; and special sights for facilitating threading both the lower and overedge loopers.

Yet another feature of the invention resulting from the accomplishment of the objects heretofore outlined is the inclusion of a single means for controlling the take-up of not only lower and overedge looper threads but also the needle thread.

Another feature of the invention is the provision of a thread nipper operable concurrently and in predetermined relation with a single means for controlling the take-up of the divers threads; 7 which in its simplest form is operated by the regular trimming mechanism in the machine.

A further feature of the invention resides in providing a novel means for detecting knots, slubs and the like in the needle thread as it is guided to the stitching mechanism, which might break the needle. In one form this means in-- ing the defective thread.

A still further and very important feature of the present invention is the provision of a single means which is capable of taking up or pulling up both the looper and needle threads forming the stitches and concurrently pulling thread for the stitches from the tensions during one part of its movement, and also capable of taking up the slack thread of a looper or loopers and the needle during another part of its movement. A complementary feature is the provision of such a means which may be adjusted very readily to impart various extents of take-up to the formed stitches and pull-off of threads for the stitches, and also to make possible short and long extents of such movement when it is desired to make many or few stitches per inch.

Some of the advantages resulting from the above features in an overedge sewing machine are that the machine: may be easilyand quickly threaded, and has short direct paths for the threads to the needle and loopers; has a minimum number of simple thread handling devices working upon the threads in a gentle manner so that it is possible to sew one-, twoand three-thread overedge seams of various forms in the one machine at very high speeds and to change from one form of stitch to another very easily; prevents needle breakage because of knots and slubs in the needle thread by cutting or by breaking the thread; has mechanism whereby all the threads are passed through a localized and easily viewed area; requires only one take-up arm to condition the needle thread and also one or two looper threads; provides structure, whereby, in one form, nipping the thread is not esential; imparts a half hitch, of the spreader or overedge looper thread on the needle, of the needle thread on the lower looper, and of the lower looper thread on the overedge looper, when the take-up occurs.

Other objects, features and advantages will appear hereinafter.

In the drawings, which illustrate the present preferred embodiments of the invention:

Figure 1 is a front view of an overedge sewing machine embodying the present invention.

Fig. 2 is a top view of the sewing machine shown in Fig. 1. Y

Fig. 3 is a sectional view taken on the line 3-3 of Fi 1.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view taken on the line 4-4 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view of the threading and thread handling mechanism.

Fig. 6 is a detail of the thread take-up.

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary detail of the special needle thread tensioning device provided by the present invention, in a raised or light tension position.

t Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7 but showing the tensioning device in a lowered or tight tension position.

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary detail of the lower and overedge loopers, and means for facilitating the threading thereof.

Fig. 10 is a sectional view showing the means for facilitating the threading of the lower looper.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary detail view of the needle and trimmer operating mechanism in the down or operative position.

Fig. 12 is an exploded view showing the lower looper thread guide, the lower trimmer blade carrier and a fragment of an adjacent portion of the work plate and a depending wall.

Fig. 13 is a detail view of the feed dog and feed dog carrier.

Fig. 14 is a detail of a modification of the thread guiding element of the thread take-up shown in Fig. 6.

Fig. 15 is a detail view of the automatic knot detecting and thread cutting device.

Fig. 16 is a top view of the knot detecting and thread cutting device disclosed in Fig. 15 showing the manner of its association with the trimming mechanism.

Fig. 1'7 is a fragmentary detail view of the loopers used for forming a single thread overedge seam,

' Fig, 18 is an enlarged view of the single thread overedge seam formed by the machine of the present invention.

Fig. 19 is a detail view of the loopers provided by the present invention to form a double thread overedge seam.

Fig. 20 is an enlarged view of one form of double thread overedge seam.

Fig. 21 is a view similar to Fig. 19 but shows a modified looper arrangement for forming a slightly different type of double thread seam.

Fig. 22 is enlarged view of the modified form of double thread overedge seam.

Fig. 23 is a fragmentary view of the main form of loopers used with the present invention for forming triple thread overedge seams.

Fig. 24 is an enlarged view of one form of triple thread overedge seam formed by the present invention,

Fig. 25 is a view similar to Fig. 24 and shows a modified form of triple thread overedge seam formed by the present invention.

Fig. 26 is a fragmentary side view, similar to Fig. 6, of a modified form of the invention.

Fig. 26A is a fragmentary detail of the locking mechanism.

Fig. 27 is a front view, partially in section, of the structure shown in Fig. 26.

Fig. 28 is a side view, of a modified form of the thread guide shown in Figs-6 and 4.

Fig, 29 discloses a modified guide for the needle thread.

Fig. 30 is a fragmentary top view of the structure shown in Figs. 26 through 29 inclusive.

Fig. 31 is a fragmentary top view of the structure shown in Fig. 28.

Before describing the present improvements and mode of operation thereof in detail it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangements of parts shown in the accompanying drawings, which are merely illustrative of the present preferred embodiments, since the invention is capable of other embodiments, and the phaseology employed is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

The detailed description which follows is under various headings to facilitate an understandin of the various mechanisms and their mode of operation, and'to disclose in particular the present improved thread handling mechanism and the mechanism to individual mechanisms will be dethe drive shaft in any suitable manner.

on the right side.

means of its association with the other elements of the sewing machine.

Main frame and general structure vibration between the machine and the support upon which it is placed. r

The work plate 42 is supported on the'main frame 30 by preferably spaced pivotal connections 43, onlyone being shown in Fig. 2, including suitable rearwardly projecting lugs 44 on the main frame 30 and cooperating lugs 45 on the work plate 42 with set screws 48 therebetween,

as may be seen best in Fig. 2. Because of the pivotal association of the work plate 42 with the main frame 30 ready access may be had to the various driving connections.

In order to provide an effective oil seal between the main frame 30 and the work plate 42 and also to provide a very effective noise and vibration absorber the present invention provides a cork, felt or light pad 41, preferably located in a suitable channel 48 in the top edge of the various sides of the main frame 30.

The work plate 42, preferably and as shown, is adapted to advantageously support a trimming mechanism 49, thread handling and control mechanism 50, a presser device and a trimming mechanism and presser device shifter 52 on its upper side, and to support the main drive shaft 38 and associated needle operating mechanism 53, looper mechanisms 54 and 55, feeding mechanism 56 and the main driving mechanism 51 on its underside.

Each of the main elements of the machine, as in the case of the main frame described immediately above, will now be described in suflicient detail to enable a clear understanding of their relationship with the thread handling mechanism. For a more complete description of these other mechanisms reference is made to my copending application Serial No. 11,488 filed March 16, 1935, of which the present application is a continuation in part.

Main driving mechanism The main driving mechanism 51, best seen in Fig. 4, comprises a substantially one piece main drive shaft 38 having a sleeve bearing 58 near the middle and having a ball bearing 60 at the left side and a similar ball'bearing, not shown, These bearings 58 and 60 are supported relative to the work plate 42 in suitable coaxial bores GI and 63 either by a forced fit or by conventional holding screws in walls 64 and 66 depending from the work plate. The

bearing at the right, not shown, is supported in a bore in the depending wall 65. If preferred,

these bores may be conventional split bores with cap sections as shown in my aforesaid application Serial No. 11,488 filed March 16, 1935. A main drive pulley 61 is secured to the right end of Additional driving connections from the main driving scribed hereinafter.

Needle operating mechanism The needle operating mechanism 53, in the form herein disclosed, includes a needle carrier 88 pivotally supported for arcuate movement in bearings on "the underside of a top housing 09 secured to the work plate 42 by screws 10, as may be seen best in Fig. 2. The needle II may be clamped in a suitable hole in the carrier arm 68 by a nut I2. A rearwardly extending arm I3 as may best be seen in Fig. 11, is secured to the, shaft I4 of the needlecarrier by a yoke and a screw I5 to hold an eccentric II to the left side 15 of the housing 59 and thereby prevent axial movement of the shaft.

In order to impart oscillatory movement to the needle II and the carrier arm 68 from the raised inoperative position, shown in Fig. 3 to the lower operative position shown in Fig. 11, the present invention provides a very short crank connection 18 comprising a crank-arm I9 secured to the crank 80 on the main drive shaft 38 as by a conventional cap 8| and screws 82 and joined by a pivot stud 83 to the rearwardly extending arm I3 as may be seen in Figs. 4 and 11, thus providing very short and substantially direct driving connections with very little inertia. The needle operating mechanism is much more completely 3o disclosed in my aforementioned copending application Serial No. 11,488.

Trimming mechanism The trimming mechanism 49, is best disclosed in Figs. 3 and 11. In its preferred form, as illustrated, it comprises an upper movable cutter 84 having an adjustable connection with acutter carrier arm 85 mounted for pivotal and axial movement with a shaft 86 which is supported in upstanding lugs 81 and 88 on the work plate 42.

' ary tongue 91 entering a channel 98 in a retaining plate 98 secured to a depending wall I00 on the work plate. These channels permit the carrier to be slid transversely relative to the line of feed. A spring IOI, see Figs. 2 and 12, located in a bore I02 in the front depending wall I00 -normally urges a follower I03 outwardly to engage a pin I04 on the carrier 92 to thereby yieldingly pull and maintain the lower cutter blade 90 in good shearing engagement with the upper cutter-84. A depending finger I05 on the upper cutter is always in engagement with the lower cutter blade 90 so that the spring IOI will not pull the lower cutter out of shearing engagement or into a position directly underlying the upper cutter.

A driving connection I06 for the upper cutter 84, best seen in Figs. 3 and 11, comprises a crankarm I01 having a bearing I08 at its lower end adapted to receive the eccentric TI on, the shaft I4 of the needle carrier 88, and at its upper end having a pivotal connection I09 to the cutter carrier arm 85 as by a stud H0. The bearing I08 preferably, as shown, is made integral with the crank-arm I01 so that eccentric Il may be slid into the bearing prior to tightening the arm I01 on the shaft 14. As the needle carrier 68 is oscillated, the eccentric Tl through the crank-arm I0'l imparts absolute coordinate oscillatory movement to the carrier and cutter 84 and also to the pivotally mounted shaft 86 to which the cutter carrier 85 is fixed.

Presser device The presser device 5| which may be seen best in Figs. 2 and 3 comprises a carrier block III secured on a rod H2 by a screw H3, the rod having axial and rotary movement in the upstanding lugs 81 and 88 on the upper side of the work plate 42. The carrier block is provided with a finger H4 having a channel H5 adapted to receive a spring carrier-arm H6 and to locate it against lateral displacement, while a screw III holds it against vertical displacement relative to the block. Divers presser feet H8 may be secured to the front end of the spring carrier-arm.

The main pressure of the presser foot toward the work plate is accomplished by a coil spring H9 located in a suitable bore I20 in the carrier block I I I, as may be seen best in Fig. 3, preferably having a ball I2I at the lower end adapted to slide over the work plate 42. The bore I20 prevents the spring from tilting and cramping the carrier block, while a screw stud I22 permits various pressure adjustments.

Secondary pressure control is provided by a regulating screw- I23 on a finger portion I24 of the carrier block while an arm I25 extending rearwardly of the carrier block III is provided to lift the presser foot into an inoperative position relative to the work plate 42. The presser device is much more completely disclosed in my copending application Serial No. 86,922, filed June 24, 1936.

Feeding mechanism Because of the fact that the novel thread handling mechanism of the present invention is capable of being associated with feeding mechanisms.

other than the differential feeding mechanism fully described in my copending applications Serial No'. 11,488 and Serial No. 27,773 flied March 16, 1935 and June 21, 1935, respectively, and in order to enable a clearer showing of certain of the other features, the differential feed dog and associated operating connections disclosed in the above named applications have been omitted from the drawings.

The feeding mechanism 56 herein disclosed, see particularly Figs. 3, 4 and 13, includes a feed dog carrier I26 supporting a feed dog I21 for reciprocation in a slot I28 in a throat plate I29. Feed rocking movement is imparted to the feed dog through a feed rocker frame I30, pivotally connected to the carrier I26 by a shaft I3I and operatively connected by a crank-arm I32 to an eccentric I33 on a head I34 on the main drive shaft 38. 1

Feed lifting movement is imparted to the feed dog through a crank I35 on the main drive shaft 38, fitted in a split bearing I36 slidably mounted in an elongated slot I31 in the feed dog carrier With the above arrangement of elements a four motion travel is imparted to the feed dog in timed relation with the needle and looper movements.

Looper mechanisms The looper mechanisms may be seen best in Figs. 3 and 4 and comprise a lower looper mechanism 54 and an overedge looper mechanism 55,

the latter having a retracted position under the work plate 42, as shown in full lines in Fig. 4, and an advanced operating position above the work table and materials being sewed, as shown in dot and dash lines in Fig. 4. These looper mechanisms are capable of forming a usual single, double, and triple thread seam, type 501, 502, 503, 504, and 505 Federal specifications for stitches, seams, and stitching shown in Figs. 18, 20, 22, 24, and 25 respectively.

The novel thread handling mechanism 50 described hereinafter assists materially in the formation of these various stitches. The mechanism for the three thread stitch (Figs. 24 and 25) is most completely illustrated in the present drawj ings and for that reason will be described first.

The lower looper mechanism 54 (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 particularly) comprises a looper carrier-arm I38, supporting a looper I39, on a shaft I40 pivotally mounted in a bearing MI in the depending wall I00, and having an arm F42 extending laterally of the machine to a crank connection I43 with the crank I on the main drive shaft. Preferably, the connection comprises a crank-arm I45 with a ball and socket joint I46 at the upper end and a similar ball and socket joint I41 at its lower end. The lower looper I39 is secured to the looper carrier-arm I38 by screws I48 and may be readily interchanged for other slightly different shaped loopers when the size of the 1 thread, materials being operated upon, stitch, or other similar factors make such change desirable.

The overedge looper mechanism 55 comprises a looper carrier I49, interchangeably supporting alooper I50, on a shaft I5I shown in Figs. 3 and 4, and which has a secondary arm I52 with a crank connection I53 to the crank I54 on the main drive shaft. The crank connection preferably includes a crank-arm I55 having a ball and socket joint I56 at its upper end to the crank I54 and a similar ball and socket joint I51 to the arm I52 at its lower end. The shaft I5I is journaled in a bearing I58 in the depending wall I00. The looper I50 is supported by the carrier I49 on a removable plvot screw I59, and intermediate its length is connected to a crank-arm portion I60 of a shaft I6I by a second removable pivot screw I62. This looper mechanism imparts both a vertical and oscillatory movement to the looper I50; viz, when the crank I54 is in the uppermost position it pulls the crank-arm I55 upwardly and causes the shaft I5I to be moved into its farthest counter-clockwise position wherein the carrier I49 and the lower end of the looper I50 are moved down and wherein the crank-.-arm I60 is similarly moved down so that the top end of the looper is underneath the work support and is in a retracted position relative to the materials being sewed.

However, when the crank I54 is rotated toward the lower position it imparts a clockwise rotation to the shaft I5I, initially lifting the overedge looper I50 to a point above the top of the work plate 42 and then imparting a counter-clockwise movement to the looper in order to move the thread carrying point thereof over the top of the material for well known cooperation with the needle II.

' In general, and dependent upon the type of seam desired, the lower looper mechanism 54 may carry a hook-type looper I39 as shown in Figs, 17 and 21, or carry an eye-type looper I39 as shown in Figs. 4, 19 and 23 particularly. Similarly, the overedge looper mechanism 55 may carry a hook-type overedge looper I50 as shown in Figs. 17 and 19, or an eye-type overedge looper I50 as shown in Figs. 4, 21 and 23 particularly.

'The main body section of all the loopers and structure for supporting and driving them is alike, the only difference being 'in the shape at the top end as illustrated. A change over from one type of looper to another may be easily'accomplished in the case of the lower looper by removing the screws I48 and in the case of the overedge looper by removing the pivot screws I59 and I62.

When the loopers I39 and I50 of a hook-type (Fig. 17) are used, and a thread I64 is carried through the work I65 by the needle H the lower hook-type looper I39 catches the needle loop, carries it to the edge of the material where the overedge hook-type looper I50 catches it in the notch I66 during its upward movement and during retraction of the lower looper I39 to carry it into the path of the needle to form the stitch type 501, as shown in Fig. 18.

When an eye-type lower looper I39 and a hooktype overedge looper I50 (Fig. 19) are used, the lower looper I39 and a lower looper thread I61 are passed through the loop of the needle thread I64, whereupon the notch I66 of the overedge looper I50 catches the lower looper thread to carry it upwardly over the edge of the work and into the path of the needle 1| to form the double thread seam, type 502, clearly illustrated in Fig. 20.

When a lower hooked looper I39 and an overedge eye-type looper I50 (Fig. 21) are used, the lower looper I39 catches the. loop of the needle thread I64 and carries it to the outer edge of the work I65 where the overedge looper I50 carrying an upper looper thread I68 passes through theneedle loop upwardly over the work and into the path of the needle which, as it passes into the work, catches and holds the looper thread I68 to form the overedge seam, type 503, shown in Fig. 22.

Three thread seams are formed by the lower eye-type looper I39 and the overedge eye-type looper I50 (Fig. 23) The lower looper I39 catches the loop of the needle thread I64, carries its own lower looper thread I61 to the edge of the work I65 where the overedge looper, while carrying its own upper looper thread I68 over the work to be engaged by the needle, passes through the lower looper thread I61. By suitable adjustment of the thread handling mechanism 50 the three thread seams, type 504 or 505 of Figs. 24 and 25 respectively, may be formed.

Thread handling mechanism Ordinarily, it is a very real problem to thread an overedge sewing machine, and especially one in which three threads are used. Very often the operating parts are at such inaccessible and awkward places that the thread must be directed through divers paths, which increase the possibility of the thread being broken as well as increasing the difliculty of properly threading the needle and the loopers. The present invention provides a machine which is remarkably easy from the standpoint of threading, tensioning, and thread control which are all highly important from the standpoint of proper overedge seam formation.

The thread handling mechanism 50 of the present invention has many novel features and is unusually efiicient. As may be seen in Figs. 1, 2 and 5, all the threads may be passed in substantially one direction, may be threaded through the machine easily, may be observed easily for spring I18 and an adjusting nut MI.

tensioning, tangling, and breaking, and as described hereinafter are regulated advantageously. These factors all aid materially in having the machine perform satisfactorily in forming stitches at high speeds. of particular importance, only one take-up finger I69 is adapted to control all three threads instead of three separate fingers. The action of the threads is simple and free of strain so that there is no danger of break-'- ing. Also, a change from a tight seam to a loose seam is effected by merely turning a part.

Considering in more detail the novel thread handling mechanism provided by the present invention it is seen that secured to an upstanding flange portion I10 adjacent the right side edge of the work plate 42 is a battery "I of thread tensioning devices I12, I13 and I14 for the lower looper, overedge looper and needle threads I61, I68 and I64 respectively. Each of these devices includes an upstanding pin I15. on which is mounted a pair of tension disks I16 and I11 normally maintained in yielding engagement by a spring I18. Adjusting nuts I19 in screw threaded relation with the pins I15 of the looper tensioning devices I12 and I13 enable a variation of the tension applied to the looper threads I61 and I66. Of particular importance, however, it is to be noted that the tensioningdevice I14 for the needle thread, preferably and as shown in detail in Figs. '7 and 8, includes a plate I loosely mounted on the upstanding pin I15 and interposed between the spring I18 and a modified adjusting nut I8I having apertures I82 and I83 therein adapted to receive fingers I84 and I65 on the plate I80. When, as shown in Fig. '7, the plate I80 is moved to a position in which the fingers I 84 and I65 are in register with and pass through the apertures I62 and I86 in the ad- 'justing nut, the spring pressure on the tenslonlng disks I16 and I11 is reduced. When, however, as shown-in Fig. 8, the plate is moved downwardly and turned so that the fingers I84 and I are not in register'with the apertures I62 and I63 in the adjusting nut there is an increase in the spring pressure on the tensioning disks I16 and I11. Fingers I86 on the plate I80, extending upwardly and thence inwardly over the adjusting nut, facilitate a ready manipulation of the plate to vary the spring pressure on the tension disks I16 and I11.

A slightly different needle thread tensionlng device I14 is shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 5, Like the device shown in Figs. '1 and8 it includes a pair of tension disks I16 and I11 normally maintained in yielding engagement by'a spring I18. Also, a plate I80 is provided loosely mounted on an upstanding pin I 15 and interposed between the This adjusting nut I8I has holes I82 therein adapted to receive pins I64 and I85 on the plate I60. When the plate I80 is pushed downwardly to compress the spring I16. shoulders I840. and I86a on the pins I84 and I85 are adapted to engage with the underside of the nut I6I'. When the shoulders IBM; and I85a are disengaged from the underside of the.nut I8I" th shoulders pass upwardly through the holes I82, see Fig. 1, thus permitting the plate I80 to move upwardly and the spring I18 to expand. A connecting plate I80a on the top of the pins I84 and I85, from which end extend upwardly ears I 80b, provides an advantageous structure for facilitating a manipulation of the plate I60 to vary the spring pressure on the tension disks I16 and I11.

There is thus provided in both the form shown tions.

0 by merely forcing the spring downwardly a distance equal to the heighth of the fingers I84 and I85, or of the shoulders 1840. and I841. Such an arrangement is especially useful when the tensioning device is in a light tension position to facilitate the formation of the loose seam disclosed in Fig. 2e and when it is desired to quickly change over from this seam to the tight seam shown in Fig. 25, the formation of which latter seam is facilitated by an increase in the needle thread tension.

Preferably, and as shown, a guide plate 681 is associated with the battery I'll of tensioning devices, having eyes 199, H89 andi950 therein for directing the respective looper and needle threads to the tensioning devices. I

Positioned adjacent the battery I1I of tensioning devices is a nipper or thread holding mechanism [I91 comprising a lower plate B92 secured to the top housing 69 and a spring finger I93 movable into and out of clamping position with respect to the lower plate in timed relation with the stitching mechanism. Timed oscillation of the finger I93 of the nipper mechanism I9I is achieved by an operative connection to the trimming mechanism 49 through an attachment to the oscillatable trimming mechanism shaft 86 by a connecting lug I94.

Of particular importance, to the left of the nipper mechanism there is secured to the top housing 69 a thread take-up device I95 in which only one take-up member is required to condition the needle thread and one or both looper threads.

Preferably, and as shown most clearly in Figs. 5 and 6, the thread guiding element I96 of this take-up device includes a plurality of U-shaped plates I91, 198 and I99 secured to the top housing 69 by a screw 200 and nut 20I which hold the spacers 202, 203 and 204 in frictional engagement with the respective plates to thereby prevent inadvertent movementthereof. Each plate has eyelets 205 therein adapted to receive thread from the respective looper and needle thread tensioning devices I12, I13 and I14.

In its now preferred form, a single finger I69 is provided upon the top of the crank-arm I45 of the main drive shaft 38 and passes upwardly through an aperture 206 in the work plate 42 to oscillate and reciprocate within the U-shaped guide plates I91, I98 and I99 once each time the 00 needle H and loopers I39 and I50 are actuated,

and in synchronization therewith to take up the slack thread as the needle and loop'ers move toward a retracted position. The guide plates I91, I98 and I99 may be shifted en masse toward or away from the movable take-up member and may be shifted individually relative to the takeup member and relative to each other so that a wide variety of thread conditioning may be effected at one point and with only one movable member.

As the needle thread I64 passes from the ten-v. sioning device I14 it is directed to the eyelets 20.5 in the upper U-shaped plate I91 and thence passed through a knot detector and thread cutter 201 interposed between a thread puller bar 208 positioned to the right of the needle carrier 68, and the thread take-up device I95. This knot detector and thread cutter 201 comprises a cutting knife 209 secured to the upper cutter carrier arm by a screw 2I0 and movable upwardly and downwardly therewith, and a second cutting knife 2 normally maintained in spaced relation to the knife 209 but movable into cutting relationship thereto when a knot, slub, or the like, in the needle thread passes through the detector. The cutting knife 21 I includes two superposed fingers 2I2 and 2I3, at least one of whichis preferably of spring material, held together by pins 2I4 and M5, one 'of the pins 2I5 passing completely through each of the fingers and through a supporting plate 2I9 secured to the thread guiding element I99 of the thread take-up device I by screws M1 and 2I8. As shown most clearly in Figs. 2, l5 and 16, a spring 219 interposed between the knife ZII and a projection 220 on the rear of the thread guiding element B99 of the take-up device normally maintains the knife 2M in spaced relation tothe cutting knife 209, the stop 22I maintaining the knife MI in spaced relation to the take-up device.

Under normal conditions the needle thread I64, passing between the fingers 2I2 and 213 of the knife 2I I, is not sufiicient to swing the knife 2H on the pivot provided by the pin 215 into cutting relationship with the cutter 209. However, when a knot approaches the detector sumcient pull is,exerted on the knife 2II to compress the spring 2I9 and bring the knife 2II into cutting relationship with the oscillating knife 209 carried by the upper cutter carrier arm 95. In this manner each time a knot or slub is detected in the needle thread, the detector and cutter is swun to a position to sever the needle thread.

The provision of this thread cutterand detector is of considerable importance because as the needle 1| utilized is a curved one there is a tendency for the extra strain on the thread, caused by a knot coming against the needle when it approaches the eye thereof, to bend the needle out of its proper curvature path causing skipped stitches and a breakage of needles. By means of the thread knotdetector and cutter provided by the present invention this danger of breaking or adversely bending the needle and causing defective work is eliminated.

The overedge looper thread I68 passes from the tension device I13 to a guide tube 222 and thence through the eyelets 205 in the lower U- shaped plate I99 of the take-up device I95. From the take-up device the overedge looper thread passes through a guide tube 223 in the top housing 69 to eyes 224 and 225 in the overedge looper I50.

The lower looper thread I61 passes from the tension device I12 and is guided by the eyelets 226 to pass between the oscillatable finger I93 and the-fixed plate I92 of the nipper or thread holding device I9I. From the nipper device the lower looper thread I61 passes through the eyelets 205 in the middle or intermediate guide plate I98 of the take-up device I95 and thence through a guide tube 221 in the work plate 42 to an eyelet 228 in a slide 229 associated with the lower cutter carrier 92 in a manner to be hereinafter described in detail. From the eyelet 228 the lower looper thread I61 passes to the eye 230 in the lower looper I39.

To facilitate threading of the loopers I39 and I50 special and advantageously located sights and guides are provided by the present invention.

Thus sights 23I and 232 in a backing plate 233 for the upper cutter 84 and in the throat plate I29 respectively (Figs. 5, 9 and 10) guide the lower looper thread I61 to the eye 230 of the lower looper. Also to facilitate 'a threading of the lower looper the slide 229, to which reference was made above, is movable to the right and to the left to bring the eyelet 228 therein from its normal position within the chamber 36 defined by the side walls of the main frame to a position outside of the chamber and in the recess 39 formed in the front wall 32 of the main frame. In this manner the eyelet 228 may be readily threaded and the lower looper thread I61 then passed through the alignedsights 23I and 232 above referred to and through the eye 230 in the lower looper. After the thread has been inserted through the eyelet in the slide and through A particularly advantageous manner of mounting the slide 229 for movement of theeyelet 228 into and out of the chamber 36 is taught by the present invention. As seen most clearly in Fig. 12, the lower cutter carrier 92 is provided with an opening 234 therein adapted to receive a guide lug 235 on the slide 229. A plate 236 secured to the guide lug 235 by means of a pair of screws 231 laps the front side of the lower-cutter carrier 92 and serves to maintain the slide 229 in as sociation with the rear-side of the lower cutter carrier 92. With this construction the slide 229 may be easily moved to the right and to the left relative to the lower cutter carrier to carry the eyelet 228 from its normal position within the chamber to a position outside of the chamber where it may be easily threaded. A knurled section 238 at the right end of the slide 229 enables a ready grasping thereof by an. operator to move the slide to desired positions.

For facilitating the threading of the overedge looper I50, as shown in Figs. 2, 4, 5 and 9, a channel 239 is provided in the work plate 42 beneath the guide tube 223, and a sight 240 is formed on a thread may be readily passed through the sight and into the eyelet 224 of the looper I50.

The provision of the various sights and guides above described for facilitating the threading of the two loopers I39 and I 50 are of considerable importance from the standpoint of an economical operation of the machine. Because of their incorporation much time is savedthat would otherwise'be taken up by the threading of the respective loopers.

The needle thread I64 upon passing from the take-up device I and through the knot detector 201 then passes over the puller bar 208 prior to entering an eyelet 24I carried by theneedle carrier 68 and the working eye 242 in the needle 1|.- This puller bar 208 is of a substantially arcuate shape, corresponding enerally to the path traversed by the needle carrier 68, and is pivotally mounted at its rear end 243 in an upstanding lug portion 244 of the. work plate 42 to enable the free end 245 of the bar to'be moved to and from 1 raised and loweredpositions relative to the work plate. When the free end'245 is in a lowered position, the bar .208 offers relatively little resistance to the needle thread and little is pulled By this arrange-' from the tensioning device I14, but when moved to a raised position greater resistance is offered to the thread and a greater amount of thread is pulled from the tension device I14. With this thread puller bar 208, the pulling of the needle thread occurs mainly before the needle and thread enter the workso that thread pulling strain is gone while the needle and thread are being forced through the work, since the arc of the free end of the puller bar recedes with respect to the arc of the needle travel. A small upturned portion 246 at the free end 245 of the puller bar serves to prevent the thread from slipping off the bar as it is carried forwardly th'ereon by the needle carrier. By a simple manipulatiorrof the bar it is thus possible to cause a greater amount of needle thread'tq be pulled to form a seam, such as shown in Fig. 24, or a less amount of needle thread to be pulled to form a seam, such as shown in Fig. 25.

With the thread handling mechanism provided by the present invention it is readily apparent that both looper threads I61 and I68 and also the needle thread I64 are all guided separately across the work plate 42in one direction and in full view of the operator. Only one movable member I 69 is utilized to take up the slack in all three sewing threads I64, I61 and I68. By loosening the nut 20I it is possible to move the U- shaped plates I91, I98 and I99 forwardly or rearwardly relative to the take-up finger I69, either together or separately and relatively to each oth- In this manner various amounts of slack may be taken up depending on the particular type of seam being sewn.

The nipper I9I, oscillating with the trimmer shaft 86 and hence in timed relation with the movement of the loopers I39 and I50 and needle 1| moves to a thread holding position each time the single take-up finger I69 moves to take-up the slack in the various threads. In this manner it is assured that the take-up finger I69 will pull up slack from the looper I39 rather than from the tensioning device I 12 when the looper is retracted. A set screw 241 in the lug I94 by which the nipper I9I is associated with the shaft 86 enables a clamping of the nipper mechanism to the shaft in different positions so that, if desired, the timing of the nipper movement with respect to the takeup finger movement may be varied.

If desired, the thread guiding element of the take-up mechanism may be made in the form of an integral U-shaped plate, as shown in Fig. 14, rather than built up of a plurality of separate U-shaped guide plates, as heretofore described and shown most clearly in Fig. 5. This modified U-shaped guide plate 248 is provided with three sets of eyes 249, one set for each of the respective looper threads I61 and I68 and needle thread I64. While the extent of take-up of the different threads may not be separately adjusted as in the case of the three plate take-up device first described, still, 'it is possible, by moving the entire 1 guide plate 248 forwardly or rearwardly relative to the movable finger I69; to vary the take-up of allthree threads simultaneously.

Figs. 26 through 30, inclusive, disclose a further modified form of thread handling mechanism 50b which is similar in many respects to the forms previously described because only one take-up or control finger 269 conditions the needle thread and either one or two looper threads.

The main points of difference are that a modifled guide 26I is provided in which sets of eyes I64a, I64b, I61a, I61b and I68a and I68b are provided at an angle to each other in opposite walls 261a and 26|b so that the threads travel in a practically straight line from the tensions i640, I 610 and i680 to the eyelets or the like beyond the guide 261 as may be seen best in Figs. 26, 28 and 30; also in the provision of a long take-up or control finger 269 provided with holes E6411 and |67d whereby the looper and needle threads i6! and I64 are acted upon by the finger 269 at both sides of its circular travel, as it is operated in the manner of the finger 69 by the looper mechanism 66 described hereinbefore (e. g. if the line or axis between the eyes 54a and i641) and of the eyes Him and i611) are substantially midway the circular travel of the finger 269). A similar hole may be provided for the looper thread i68, but has been found unnecessary. In some instances a notch l69d has been found helpful when it is desired (Fig. 26) to have the finger 269 work upon the thread I68 a longer time or pull a greater extent.

The finger 269 may be secured to the top of the connecting arm M5 like the finger M59. Preferably, however, it is made long (see Figs. 26 and 27) with a block and slot connection 2'0 at the center to a pin 2H in the top of the arm M5 and has an adjustable connection 2W at its lower end. The latter preferably comprises a serrated finger 213 secured to a cap 214 as by a screw 216, the finger being adapted to enter a slot 2116 in the finger 269 where it is locked in any desired position by a nut 2'. By locating the control finger 269 inwardly .or outwardly on the serrated finger 213 respectively greater and shorter extents of travel are imparted to the top end of the control finger and location thereof relative to the thread eyelets in the guide 26! may be changed, to efficiently control the thread and to vary the appearance and form of the overedge stitch. Shifting of the guide 26l forwardly or rearwardly of the machine and of the control finger 269 under the post 200 and lock nut 2M serves a similar purpose. The guide 26! may have an enclosed front 26le serving as a protector.

The latter form of thread control mechanism 501) works so satisfactorily that it is not necessary to use the thread nipper. The control finger 269 serves effectively during one part of its movement or circular travel to pull the needle and looper threads and to pull thread from the tensions to form stitches and in the other part of its movement serves to effectively pull up any slack in the threads as the needle and loopers move into retracted positions. Also, because of this action it serves to effectively form what may be termed a half hitch of the overedge looper thread on the needle, of the needle thread on the lower looper and of the lower looper thread on the overedge looper or spreader, when the take-up occurs. Consequently the stitched materials are not adversely puckered and a uniform result is assured.

In place of the knot detector and automatic cutter 201 hereinbefore described a simple stationary knot or slub catcher and thread breaker 201a may be provided (see Fig. 28) comprising merely a pronged member 288 adjacent an eye in the guide 26! having a slot 28! adapted to receive and pass a normal thread but to prevent a knot from passing through. The split member seizes or stops the knot or slub and thereby causes the thread to break. Preferably the pronged member is located in a nest 282 of a block 283 secured to either side of the guide 26l, as by a screw 284, in a threaded hole 285. Tightening or loosening screw 286 adjusts the slot 28| for thin and thick thread.

In some forms of stitch and work (e. g. thick thread and heavy materials) it is desirable to have the needle thread pass in an almost straight line to the needle I I, rather than over the puller member 288 before described. A structure for this purpose is disclosed in Fig. 29 comprising a guide 281 in a plate 288.

Whether the take-up mechanism device in Fig. 5, the modified take-up devices disclosed in Fig. 4 or in Figs. 26 through 30 are used there results a particularly simple mechanism in which only one take-up finger N59 or 269 is utilized for taking up the slack on all three of the threads H64, it'land E68. Moreover, it is to be observed that either the three plate guiding elements 996 or the one plate guiding elements 248. and 26! serve to localize the one, two or three threads, and that the aperture 286 in the work plate 42 through which the take-up finger extends and in which it oscillates provides an opening through which oil mist created by the high speed operation of the driving connection may pass from the interior of the chamber 36 upwardly to be deposited on the various threads being passed through the eyelets of the take-up device. Since the threads are always of small diameter and pass through the guide at a very high speed they collect but an infinitesimal amount of oil mist,

just enough to facilitate the threads passing through and over subsequent guides and to thereby minimize thread breakage, and not enough to discolor, stain, or otherwise mar the materials, sewed.

Variations and modifications may be made within the scope of this invention and portions of the improvements may be used without others.

Having thus described .the invention what is claimed as new is:

1. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, lower looper and an overedge looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding three threads separately to the needle, lower looper and the overedge looper; only one movable takeup member associated with said last named means for operation on said threads; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and the one movable take-up member concurrently.

2. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing. mechanism including a movable needle, lower looper and an overedge looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding three threads separately to the needle, lower looper and the overedge looper; driving mechanism adapted'to operate said sewing mechanism and the feeding mechanism concurrently; a crankarm in said driving mechanism and associated with the sewing mechanism; and only one takeup member actuated by said crank-arm and as sociated with the guiding means and adapted to condition the threads therein.

3. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; normally stationary means. for guiding needle and looper threads at longitudinally spaced points; only one movable take-up member associated with said normally stationary means for operating on said needle and looper threads intermediate said spaced points; and driving mechanism for operating said sewthreads; a normally stationary puller member aiaaava ing mechanism, feeding mechanism and one movable take-up member concurrently.

4. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; normally stationary means, for guiding needle and looper threads at longitudinally spaced points; a normally stationary puller member for the needle thread; only one movable take-up member associated with said normally stationary thread guiding means for operating on said needle and looper threads intermediate said spaced points; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and movable take-up member concurrently.

5. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper for the needle thread; only one movable take-up member associated with said thread guiding means; a two station tension for the needle thread adapted with said take-up member to alter the form of stitch; and driving mechanism.

for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and movable take-up member concurrently.

6. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means for operation on said needle and looper threads; a thread nipper; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism, movable take-up member, and nipper concurrently.

'7. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means; a trimnately.

ming mechanism; a nipper actuated by said trimming mechanism; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing, feeding and trimming mechanisms and the take-up member coordi- 8. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, lower looperv and an overedge looper;

sg feeding mechanism; means for guiding three threads separately to the needle, lower looper and the overedge looper; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means; adjustable means adapted to support said 69;; threads in divers positions relative to the takeup member; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and the one movable take-up member concurrently.

9. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, lower looper and an overedge looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding three threads separately to the needle, lower looper and the overedge looper; only one movable takeup member associated with said last named ''means; a plurality of thread guiding members,

shiftable relatively to each other, and each adapted to support one of said threads in various positions relative to each other and relabination of a sewing mechanism; an arcuately=- movable needle carrier in said. sewing. mechanism; a normally stationary puller member for the needle thread of a substantially arcuate shape adjacent the needlev carrier; feeding mechanism; and driving mechanism for operating the sewing and feeding mechanisms.

11. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism; an arcuately movable needle carrier in said sewing mechanism; an adjustable puller member of substantially arcuate shape adjacent the needle carrier and movable into different arcuate positions with respect to the arcuate travel of the movable needle carrier; feeding mechanism; and driving mechanism for operating the sewing and feeding mechanisms coordinately.

12. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means; a thread cutter; driving mechanism for operating said' sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and one movable take-up member concurrently; and means for rendering said thread cutter operative concurrently with the operation of the driving mechanism when a knot is present in the thread passing to the sewing mechanism.

13. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of. a sewing mechanism; feeding mechanism; a thread control mechanism; a combined knot detector and thread cutter associated with said thread control mechanism; driving means for operating said sewing mechanism and feeding mechanism concurrently; and means for rendering said thread cutter operative concurrently with the operation of the driving mechanism when a knot is present in the thread passing to the sewing mechanism.

14. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle; an overedge looper in said sewing mechanism, having a thread eye; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means; means for accurately directing a thread to the eye in the overedge looper when the latter is in a predetermined position; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and one movable take-up member concurrently.

15. In an overedge sewing machine having a top plate the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle; an overedge looper in said sewing mechanism, having a thread eye; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper threads; means associated with said top plate for accurately directing a thread to the eye in the overedge looper when the latter is in a predetermined position adjacent the top plate; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism and feeding mechanism concurrently.

16. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle; a chamber having open and closed positions; a lower looper in said sewing mechanism, having a thread eye; feeding mechanism;

means for guiding needle and looper threads; a slide carried. by said chamber adapted to be threaded with the looper thread exteriorly of the chamber and to be moved within the chamber while the chamber is closed; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism and: feeding mechanism concurrently.

17. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle; a chamber having open and closed positions; a lower looper in said sewing mechanism, having a thread eye; feeding mechanism; means for guiding a thread to the looper from within the chamber, movable from a position outside the closed chamber where it may be threaded to a position within the closed chamber; and driving mechanism for operating saidsewing mechanism and feeding mechanism concurrently.

18. In an overedge sewing machine the. combination of sewing mechanism; a movable needle carrier in said sewing mechanism; a lower looper; means to facilitate threading the lower looper; an overedge looper; means to facilitate threading the overedge looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding three threads separately to the needle, lower looper and overedge looper, and for localizing. said threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means; a two station tension for the needle thread; a normally stationary puller member for the needle thread; a nipper for one of said looper threads; a knot detector and thread cutter; and driving mechanism for operating the sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism, take-up member, thread cutter, and nipper concurrently.

19. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle carrier and at least one looper; means to facilitate threading the looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding threads separately to the needle and to the looper and for localizing said threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means; a two station tension for the needle thread; a normally stationary puller member for the needle thread; a nipper for one of the looper threads; a knot detector and thread cutter; and driving mechanism for operating the sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism, take-up member, thread cutter, and nipper concurrently.

20. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a thread control mechanism; a split member associated with said thread control mechanism adapted to receive and pass a normal thread, and to effectively prevent passage of the thread when. knots and slubs on the thread engage therewith; and means for varying the size of the split member.

21. In an overedge sewing machine the com- ,bination of a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and a movable looper; feeding mechanism; normally stationary means, for guiding needle and looper threads at longitudinally spaced points; only one take-up and control member associated with said normally station ary means, provided with apertures for respectively accommodating the needle and looper threads and operating on said threads intermediate said spaced points; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and one movable take-up and control member concurrently.-

22. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and a movable looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding thread to the needle and to the looper, and provided with passages for the thread; driving mechanism for operating said sewing and feeding mechanism concurrently; a crank arm in said driving mechanism; a take-up and control member actuated by said crank arm for operating on threads to the needle and to the looper; and means for locating said control member in divers positions relative to the arm and to the thread passages in the guiding means.

23. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism including a movable needle, and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; normally stationary means, for guiding needle and looper threads at longitudinally spaced points; driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism and feeding mechanism concurrently; a crank arm in said driving mechanism; and only one take-up member actuated by said crank arm and associated with said normally stationary means for operating on said needle and looper threads intermediate said spaced points.

24. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism including a movable needle and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding needle and looper threads; only one movable take-up member associated with said thread guiding means for operating on said needle and looper threads; a two-station tension for the needle thread adapted with said take-up member to alter the form of stitch; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and movable take-up member concurrently.

25. In an overedge sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism including a movable needle, and at least one looper; feeding mechanism; means for guiding two threads separately to the needle and the looper; only one movable take-up member associated with said last named means for operating on said 'needle and looper threads; adjustable means adapted to support said threads in divers positions relative to the take-up member; and driving mechanism for operating said sewing mechanism, feeding mechanism and the one movable take-up member concurrently.

JOHN P. WEIS.

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