US2094905A - Method of and machine for operating upon shoe parts - Google Patents

Description

'r. c. ROWEN 2,094,905

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR OPERATING UPON SHOE PARTS Oct. 5, 1937.

Filed May 9, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet l l I I l I I I I I l l l l I l I 1937. T. c. ROWEN 2,094,905

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR OPERATING UPON SHOEPARTS- Filed May 9, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Oct 5, 1937. 'r. c. ROWEN 2,094,905

' METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR OPERATING UPON SHOE PARTS Filed May 9, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 v vEA/TUF M Mm 4 fieets-Sheet 4 Oct. 5, 1937. v T. c. ROWEN METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR OPERATING UPON SHOE PARTS Filed May 9, 1935 Patented Oct. 5, 1937 warren stares PATENT QFFEE PEETHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR OPERAT- ING UPON SHOE PARTS Application May 9, 1935, Serial No.'20,6l5-

34 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of and machines for operating upon shoe parts and is herein exemplified with reference to the shaping of shoe parts, the pressing of seams in seamed shoe parts, and the application of a tape to a shoe part.

The area of a shoe upper part which may include a seam known as the back seam, which joins the parts of a quarter or lining made of two sections, is a source of several difiiculties in shoemaking which arise especially in connection with the operation of lasting the heel end of the quarter smoothly about the last, notwithstanding the variation in its width between the top or cone l5 portion and the bottom. During the performance of this operation the quarter is subjected to considerable stress incident to making it conform to the shape of the last. If the quarter has a back seam the lasting operation is facilitated by finishing the seam as by rubbing or pressing it and by reinforcing it with a tape. However, if either of these operations is improperly carried out, as for example by straining the quarter excessively in lasting it or by rubbing or pressing the seam too vigorously, it is likely that the stress which necessarily accompanies the lasting operation' will cause the stitches to show excessively, or to tear the stitching perforations, or in some instances even to break. Moreover, if the seam ridge is unevenly pressed toward one side or the other, a tape when applied to the upper over the ridge tends to hold the ridge in this distorted condition and hence is a detriment rather than an aid to shaping the back seam area of the upper into its desired condition.

It has been found that the above-mentioned difiiculties in connection with operating upon a shoe quarter having a back seam are best minimized or avoided by operating upon it while it is in normally curved shape; and that uniformity in the pressed condition of the back seam at different points along its length is furthered not only by applying pressure simultaneously to all parts of the seam'but also by limiting the lateral displacement of the seam ridge which is caused by this application of pressure. A method of this type and a machine operating in accordance with such a method are disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No. 2,021,966, granted Novem- 50 ber 26, 1935, upon an application filed in the name of E. F. Schmidt.

With the foregoing in View, it is a general obj eot of this invention to provide improved methods of and a machine for forming and pressing the back seam area of a shoe part or upper and applying a tape thereto having the above-mentioned advantages and by the use of which is minimized even to a greater extent than heretofore the danger of broken stitches and the difficulty of shaping the upper in the vicinity of the back seam.

The invention in one aspect contemplates the method of shaping a shoe upper part which consists in urging spaced portions thereof away from each other thereby to tension the portions extending between such spaced portions and then applying pressure directly against the shoe part progressively from each of said spaced portions toward the other. e As herein disclosed theoperations referred to are preferably carried out while the shoe upper is supported by a form shaped in accordance with the shape which it is desired to impart to the upper. Accordingly; the back seam area of the shoe upper which is operated upon is first shaped into conformity to the form first by being tensioned over it so as to distribute the shaping action overa substantial area of the upper and then by being pressed directly against the form. l 7

When a seamed shoe part, such, for example, as a quarter having a back seam is operated upon 25 in accordance with a method of this type the quarter is tensioned laterally of the seam thereby to reduce the depth of the seam crease as a result of portions at opposite sides of the seam being urged away from each other. However, to insure against excessive straining of the seam widthwise thereof the invention also provides for limiting displacement of the portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam laterally thereof, and then applying pressure to the seam, thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seam crease. The displacement of the portions of the shoe part contiguous to the seam ridge at each side thereof is limited laterally of the seam, in the practice of the above stated method, by gripping them while in their normally curved form and, accordingly, the tendency of the seam crease to be spread excessively as a result of the pressing of the ridge and hence to allow the stitches to become unduly prominent is overcome. For similar reasons it is apparent that there is little or no increase in the tension of the'stitches as a result of the pressing of the seam ridge, and for this reason also the likelihood of the seams being impaired either by the pressing of the ridge or in the lasting operation is reduced to the utmost.

While the procedures stated above may be carried out for the purpose of shaping a shoe part and finishing the back seam, if, in fact, the shoe part has one, they may also be of great value as ,operations preparatory to the application of a piece of tape over the seam for the purpose of reinforcing it. Accordingly, the invention in 'to operate in accordance with the methods stated above and embodying important features of the invention to be more specifically described here inafter, includes a form shaped and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of a shoe part adjacent to the seam in its normally curved form, the work engaging surface of the form being interrupted to receive the seam-ridge, means cooperating with the form to press portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam into conformity to the-shape of the form, and means mounted for movement within the ine terruption in the form to press the entire length of the seam ridge simultaneously, thereby to re duce its height and to flatten the seam crease. As mentioned above in connection with the method aspect of the invention, the gripping of portions of the shoe part contiguous to the seam, which results from their being pressed, prevents excessive spreading of the partsof the shoe upper contiguous to the seam crease which otherwise might result from the pressing of the seam ridge.

Furthermore, the seam ridge is not only reduced.

7 form. Preferably this means is arranged to urge portions of the shoe part at opposite sides of the seam away from each other to accomplish this result; but the invention also contemplates the provision of'other means arranged to impart a succession of wiping strokes as it is moved toward the form, and to this end is constituted by sets of wipers carried by the above-mentioned pressing means, which wipers are mounted and ar ranged to be moved successively into engagement with the shoe part before the seam is pressed and subsequently to separate. from each other and thereby frictionally to tension the shoe part laterally of the seam as the pressing means is moved toward the form.

As herein illustrated andin accordance with another feature of the invention, the form which shapes and supports the work piece comprises two sections which are spaced to receive the seam ridge therebetween, not only to provide the interruption-in their Work supporting surfaces referred to above by which lateral displacement of the seam ridge is prevented, but also to permit the member for pressing the seam ridge to be moved into such a position thatits work engaging surface becomes continuous with that of the forms in order to effect a complete pressing of the seam ridge and to afford a smooth supporting surface for atape if the machine is to be used for tape applying. a

,With the latter purpose in view, the operating mechanism for the forms, shaping member and seam pressing member is so constructed, in accordance with another feature of the invention, that the shaping member can be moved away from the forms-a limited amount, to facilitate the insertion of a piece of tape between the forms and the shoe part, without moving the seam pressing member, whereby the continuity of the tapeisupporting surface is preserved.-

These and other features of the invention will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings and pointed out. in the appended claims.

Inthe drawings, V

Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation illustrating one embodiment of the invention; r Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1; V

Fig. 3 is a sectional plan view of the machine, portions'of the base of which have been broken away, the section being. taken along the/line III-III of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a front elevation of portions of the operating instrumentalities, a portion of which, in section, illustrates their relation before the seam pressing member acts upon the seam ridge;

ated upon the seam ridge;

Fig. 6 illustrates the application of a tape over the seam ridge, the operating instrumentalities being s'hownin section;

Fig. 7 illustrates an undesirable condition of a pressed seam which is avoided by practicing the present invention;

Fig. 8 is a view in perspective of an alternative form of pressing and shaping member, parts of which are broken away, illustrating an intermediate stage of the pressing and shaping operation; and

Fig. 9 is an end elevation of a part of the structure illustrated in Fig. 8 but representing the proximal relation of the form pressing member and work piece. a V i I A shoe quarter Q the back seam of which is to be pressed and have a tape applied thereto in a machine of the type illustrated herein, as will be more fully described below, is first shaped both' longitudinally and laterally of the seam ridge 7 over forms it] and i2, the upper portions of which are convexly shaped and are complemental to the desired shape of the concave side of the shoe part Q in the vicinity of the back seam. The

, shoe part Q is first made to conform to the shape of the forms it and I2 by being pressed downwardly thereabout by two sets of. spring wipers [4 and It, these wipers being carried by a shaping member !8 and being arranged and adapted successively to engage the shoe part Q and to yield outwardly so as to allow continued downward movement of the shaping member I8 until the latter firmly presses the shoe part Q against the top portions of the forms l0 and I2.

From the time when the wipers M and I6 engage about a common axis 20 to confine the seam ridge against any lateral displacement between surfaces 22 and 24 on the forms [9 and I2, respectively. After the sides of the seam ridge 1 have thus been gripped or confined against lateral displacement between the surfaces 22 and 24, as illustrated in Fig. 4, the seam ridge is reduced heightwise by a seam pressing member 26 which is adapted to be operated between the surfaces 22 and 24 toward the form l8 so as to compress the seam ridge, and also further to improve the continuity of the convex surface of the shoe part crosswise of the seam crease by flattening the latter against the shaping member l8.

The general operating characteristics of the illustrated machine having been described, the

construction and arrangement of its various features will now be set forth in detail. The forms it) and it as herein illustrated are shaped in accordance with the normal curvature of a shoe quarter at the vicinity of the back seam and are mounted to swing on trunnions 28, 30 the former of which is fixed in the upper end of a standard 32 mounted on a base plate 34; Extending upwardly from one side of the base plate 34 is a column 36 having a transverse bore which receives the trunnion it in axial alinement with the trunnion 28. Slideways 38 extending vertically in the column 36 are arranged to receive a slide 48 the upper end of which is curved toward the forms it and I2 and is bored to receive a pin 42 on which the shaping member I8 is mounted. The slide 46 is moved upwardly and downwardly in the column 36 by a rod 44 which may be operated by any convenient means such as a treadle, for example. The rod 44 passes through a clearance hole in a lug 46 formed integral with the slide 46 and acts against the lug 46 to lower the shaping member through a spring 48 the upper end of which abuts against a collar 50 which can be adjustably clamped to the rod 44 in any desired position. Upon depressing the rod 44, therefore, the shaping member i8 is yield ingly pressed against the shoe' part Q but its retraction is effected positively owing to the provision of a collar 52 fixed to the'rod and adapted to engage the lower side of the lug 46.

The wipers M are each formed from spring sheet material which is slotted, as indicated in Fig. 2, to provide a plurality of fingers which can yield relatively to each other so as to accommodate the diiferent curvatures of different parts of the forms Hi and I2. The wipers l6 are formed in the same way as the-wipers 14 both of which sets of wipers are fastened to the shaping member it by screws 54.- It will be understood with reference to Fig. 1, that when the shaping member 18 is lowered the wipers l4 act.

upcn the shoe part Q first and impart an initial tension thereto transverse to the seam ridge and cause the portion of the quarter Q extending between the wipers over the upper part of the forms Iii and E2 to be held thereagainst. Just prior to the time when the shaping member 88 is brought into engagement with the quarter Q the wipers i6 engage the latter and in being forcibly moved along the sloping sides of the forms Hi and 32 separate and impart an increased tension to the shoe part, already tensioned by the wipers I4, crosswise of the seam ridge T thereby to insure that the portions of the quarter adjacent to the seam will be abruptly curved away from each other at the crease and hence result in a substantially continuous surface on the convex side of the shoe part considered transversely of the seam.

As stated above, while the above described action of. the wipers l4 and I 6 is occurring the forms I!) and I2 are moved toward each other,

to cause the surfaces 22 and 24 to confine the sides of the seam ridge r, by ,mechanism which will now be described. The end surface 56 of the slide 46 is arranged, when the slide is lowered, to engage a spring 58 seated within a recess in a rack 69 slidingly mounted in. the slideways 38. A segmental gear 62 meshing with the rack 66 is pinned to one end of a shaft 64 to the opposite end of which is also pinned another segmental gear 66, the latterbeing arranged to mesh with a sliding rack bar 68 mounted for vertical movement in slideways i6 formed in the column 36. By means of the connections described above, lowering of the shaping member I8 also causes the bar 68 to be moved downwardly which movement causes the forms In and l2 to be swung toward each other through connections comprising toggle links 12, i4 which are pivotally connected to the bar 68 by a pin 16, and by other pins ii to the lower ends of arms E8 and 80 which extend downwardly from the forms it] and i2, respectively.

The effect of operating the rod 44 downwardly on the mechanism thus far described is first, through the spring 48, yi-eldingly to bring the shaping member l8 into contact with the shoe part Q. Thus, when the reference line a: at the work-engaging surface at the shaping member in Fig. 1 reaches the position indicated at a, the wipers i4 begin to act upon the shoe part so as to tension it crosswise of the seam and to make it conform to the surfaces of the forms Hi and I2. This action occurs alone until the shaping memher is lowered to the position of the reference line b, at which point the end surface 555 of the slide 48 engages the spring 58 and initiates the swinging movement of the forms H! and I2 toward each other to confine the seam ridge r against lateral displacement. The above described acticn of the wipers i 4 and I6 and this last-mentioned swinging movement of the forms it! and I2 occur simultaneously throughout the downward movement of the shaping member l8 until it reaches the position indicated by the reference line 0, at which point its downward movement is arrestedbycontact with the quarter Q which now is pressed against the forms In and I2. However, further downward movement of the rod 44 is permitted by the yielding connection between it and the slide 4% and also the yielding connection between the'siide 48 and the rack bar 66. Downward movement of the rod 44 in expressing member 26 to be positively elevated into engagement with the seam ridge thereby to reduce its height and to press the seam, as indicated at Fig. 5, as will now be described. The pressing member 26 is mounted to slide vertically in slideways 82 formed integrally with and extending upwardly from the base plate 34, The pressing member 26 is raised and lowered by toggle connections including a link 64 which is pivoted at its upper end at 86 to the pressing member 26, and at its lower end to the upper end of a link 88 the lower end of which is pinned to a shaft 99 rotatably mounted in the slideways 82. The shaft 90 is operated by a lever 92 fixed thereto and having a bifurcated end adapted to receive the rod 44, a certain part of the downward movement of which is transmitted to the lever 92 by a collar 94 which may be adjustably clamped on the rod '44 in any-desired position and which bears against the bifurcated end of the lever 92 when I the rod 44 is lowered beyond that position required to carry the shaping member I8 to the position indicated by the reference line c. -It will be apparent that such movement of the rod 44 causes 7 the lever 02 to be swungin a counterclockwise direction (Fig. 2) so as to straighten the toggle comprising-the links 84, 88 and hence to elevate the seam pressing member 26 until its pressing surface is substantially Continuous with the upper surfaces of the forms I and'I2, as illustrated in Fig. 5. A collar 96 fixed to the shaft 44 below the lever 92 acts, whenthe rod 44 is raised a substantial distance, .to break the toggle 84, 88

and hence to lower the seam pressing member 26;

Similarly to insure that the toggle comprising the links '52,- I4 shall be broken to effect the separation of the forms I0 and I2 a rod 98 threaded into the rack bar 50, and telescoping within a bore l 00 in the slide 40, has formed near its upper end a shoulder !02 which is adapted to be engaged by the inner end of a screw I04 carried by the slide 453. Thus, as the slide 40 is raised well above the forms I0 and I2 after the completion of a seam pressing operation the screw I04 is raised into engagement with the shoulder I02 and subsequent upward movement of the slide'thus causes the rod 98 to be raised and hence the toggle I22, I4 to be broken.

The seam pressingmember 26, as embodied in the illustrated machine, is provided with an electric resistance heating unit I06 which heats not only the pressing member 26 but also the forms c presser member 26.

iii and I2 between which and the pressing member, as illustrated. in Figs. 4 and 5, there is a substantial area of heat transferring surfaces.

The operating mechanism of the illustrated machine is so arranged as to adapt it for applying a piece of tape over the ridge of a seam after it has been pressed in the manner referred to above. With this object in view, the shaping member I8 can be. raised sufficiently from the quarter, after its seam ridge has beenpressed, to allow the introduction of a tape between the forms I0 and I2 and the quarter without either lar on the rod 44 which breaks the toggle for operating the pressing member 26, and by 10- cating the screw I04 as desired with respect to the shoulder I02.

As illustrated in the embodiment of the invention'represented in Figs. 8 and 9, a shaping member m8, adapted to be mounted on the slide 40 in the same way that the shaping member I8 is mounted thereon, is constructed and arranged, as will be more fully described hereafter, first to tension a shoe part on the forms I0 and I2 transversely 'of its seam ridge, if in fact the shoe 7 part has a seam ridge, and then to apply shaping pressure over the entire tensioned area of the shoe part, such shaping pressure being applied progressively from each tensioned area toward the other.

The shaping member I08 is pivotally mounted on the slide 40 on the pin 42 so as to be capable of self adjustment longitudinally of the forms I0 and I2. The work-engaging surface of the shaping member I08 is curved in conformity to the shape of the forms I0 and I2 both laterally and longitudinally thereof. Arms H0, H2 are'fixed to the end of the shaping member I08 and carry at their ends studs I I4, I I 6 'on which are rotatably mounted other shaping members I I8 and I20,

respectively. The inner sides of the shaping members H8 and I20 are recessed to receive inserts I22, I24, respectively, of yieldable material such as rubber forexample, and which are adapted to yield into intimate contact with the work- 1 piece throughout its area which they cover when 7 are swung on the studs H4, H6 by means of a spring I28 abutting lugs I28, I30 extending upwardly from the shaping members H8 and I 20, respectively, so that the distance between their lower edges is less than the distance between the sides of the forms I0 and I 2. The extent to which the lower parts of the shaping members I I8 and I can thus be swung toward each other may be adjustably limited by a bolt I32 which extends through the upper ends of the lugs I28 and I30.

It will now be apparent that as the slide 40 carrying the shaping member I08 is lowered, the lower edges of the insertsI22 and I24 willfirst engage spaced portions of a work-piece on the forms it and I2-and then as a result of being moved downwardly exert oppositely directed frictional forces tendingto tension the area of the work piece extending between the portions first engaged by the inserts I22, I24. Thus, if the work-piece has a seam, as in the case of the workpiece illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9, it is tensioned laterally of the seam whereby the'continuity of the surface of the work-piece is improved by diminishing the'depth of the seam crease. Still further downward movement of the shaping member I 08 causes the shaping members Il 8 'and I20 gradually to swing so that more and more of. the upper portions of the work-engaging surfaces of the inserts I22 and I24 are brought into contact with the work-piece. Thus, shaping pressure is applied to the work-piece progressively from the sides of the work-piece upwardly and over the rear portion thereof which includes the'back seam of shoe parts having such seams. It will be noted from Fig, 9 that the yielding inserts I22 and I24, in response to shaping pressure, are expanded widthwise of the forms I0 and I2 into contact with or contiguous relation to the shaping member l 58 as a result of being compressed to. a slight extent. Accordingly, at the final stage. of the pressing operation the work-piece is pressed against the forms I0 and I2 continuously over its entire area covered by the shaping members I08, H8 and I20.

While the operation of the machine will be understood from the foregoing description of both embodiments of the invention, it will now be briefly summarized with reference to the use of a shaping member of the type illustrated in Fig. 1, the operation of the other type of shaping member as illustrated in Fig. 8 already having been The proper adjustments of the.

at the same time positioning the quarter over the forms Ill and I2 so that the seam ridge extends downwardly between the surfaces 22, 24. As the shaping member I8 is moved downwardly the wipers I 4 and I6 are brought into action successively to make the portions of the quarter contiguous to the seam at each side thereof conform to the shape of the forms l0 and I2 and also to tension the quarter transversely of the seam to reduce the depth of the seam crease as much as practicable in this manner. During the latter part of the downward movement of the shaping member [8 the forms I0 and [2 are swung toward each other as described above to grip or confine the sides of the seam ridge against lateral displacement when the ridge is acted upon by the seam pressing member 26. After the shaping member l8 has been moved firmly into engagement with the portions of the quarter Q contigue ous to the seam, the seam pressing member 26 is operated positively upwardly into engagement with the entire length ofthe seam ridge simultaneously and compresses the latter so as to reduce the height of the ridge and also still further to flatten the seam crease on the convex side of the quarter. It will be apparent from the foregoing that the confinement of the seam ridge between the surfaces 22 and 24 as it is pressed insures against the ridge being displaced either to one side or the other at any point along its length. Consequently, the seam ridge, when com pletely pressed, is straight and uniformly reduced in height from one end to the other, a condition which is much to be desired, especially if this operation is to be followed by the application of the tape over the seam ridge. Moreover, on account of the portions of the quarter Q contiguous to the seam being held against displacement laterally of the seam the seam pressing member 25 causes the individual parts of the quarter to be relatively abruptly curved at their junction without gaping at the seam crease and hence minimizes the tendency of the stitches to grin as in the case of the work piece illustrated in Fig. 7, orto enlarge the stitch perforations as is caused by some seam pressing operations in which the ridge is not controlled against lateral displacement or may receive pressure concentrated in a small' locality.

The ridge of the seam now having been reduced until it is substantially continuous with the concave side of the work piece, if the machine is used only for seam pressing the shaping member is may be allowed to rise to its uppermost position, as illustrated in Fig. 1. However, if a tape is to be applied over the pressed seam, the shaping member I8 is raised only far enough to allow the insertion of a tape between the quarter Q (the quarter also being raised owing to the gripping action of the wipers I l) and the portions of the forms In and I2 and the pressing member 26 beneath the area of the quarter to be covered by the tape. By thus raising theshaping member I8 to a limited extent, the forms H3 and I2.are not separated and the pressing member 26 is not lowered to interrupt the continuity of their work engaging surfaces. The shaping member I8, is then again lowered to cause the tape to be'pressed against the quarter, as illustrated in Fig. 6, with sufficient dwell to insure complete attachment of occupies in Fig. 1, to facilitate the placement of an untreated quarter over the forms, as described above. V V

It is to be understood that the tapingoperation is carried out in the same way and by the same succession of movements by the operator in the use of pressing members of each type illustrated in Figs. 1 and 8.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its concave surface, a form shaped and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of the shoe part into its normally concave state, the work engaging surface of said form being interrupted to receive the seam ridge, means for pressing portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam ridge against said form, and a member shaped and mounted for movement within said interruption in said form to press the seam ridge.

2. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its concave surface, means shaped and arranged to support and form the concave surface of the shoe part in its normally concave state comprising forms spaced to receive the seam ridge therebetween, means cooperating with said forms to grip portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam ridge, and a pressing memshaped and mounted for movement into engage ment with the seam ridge,- and operator-controlled means for moving said shaping member and said last-mentioned means successively into engagement with the shoe part.

4. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its concave surface, forms spaced to receive the seam ridge therebetween andmovable toward each other thereby to straighten the seam ridge, said forms being shaped and arranged to support the concave surface of a shoe part in its normally curved state,shaping means mounted for movement into engagement with portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam ridge, apresser member mounted for movement between said forms into such a position that its pressing surface is continuous with that of the forms, and operator-controlled means for caus ing said shaping means and pressing member suecessively to engage the shoe part, said operatorcontrolled means being operable to retractthe shaping means to a limited extent without moving said pressing member.

5. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its concave surface, forms shaped and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of a shoe part adjacent to the seam in its normally curved form, the forms being spaced to receive the seam ridge therebetween, a shaping member cooperating with said forms to press portions of the shoe part contiguous to the seam into conformity to the shape of the forms, and means adapted to be operated as said member is moved toward the forms to impart to the shoe part laterally of the seam a succession of oppositely directed wiping strokes, and means mounted for movement between said forms and shaped to engage the entire length of the seam ridge simultaneously thereby to reduce its height and to flatten the seam crease.

6. In a machine for operating upon a curved 10 shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its normally concave surface, forms shaped and arranged to support the concave surface of the shoe part adjacent to the seam in its normally curved state, said forms being spaced to receive 5 the seam ridge therebetween, means for pressing portions of the shoe part contiguous tothe seam against the forms,-said pressing means carrying members adapted to be moved into engagement with the shoe part as the pressing means is moved toward it to tension the shoe part laterally of the seam, and means disposed between said forms shaped and mounted to press the entire length of the seam ridge simultaneously.

7. Ina machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its normally concave surface, means constructed and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of the shoe part adjacent to the seam in its normally concave form, the work-engaging surface of said means being interrupted to receive the seamridge, means shaped and mounted to press the entirelength of the seam ridge simultaneously, a member for pressing the portions of a the shoe part including and contiguous to the seam against both of said pressing means, and sets of yielding wipers carried by said member mounted and arranged to engage the shoe part before the seam is pressed and impart thereto successive applications of frictional force directed laterally of the seam;

, 8. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part havinga seam ridge extending along its normally concave surface, a form shaped and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of the shoe part in its normally concave state, the work-engaging surface of said form being interrupted to receive the seam ridge, a member shaped and. mounted for movement relatively to said form to press the seam ridge, means i for pressing the shoe part, against said form and pressing inember,'and means cooperating with said'form adapted to be operated before the last-mentioned means engages the shoe part to impart wiping strokes to the shoe part directed oppositely to each otheraway from the seam.

9. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending alongits normally concave surface, a form shaped and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of the shoe part in its normally concave state, the work-engaging surface of said form being interrupted to receive the seam ridge, a member shaped and mounted for movement relatively to said form to press the seam ridge, means for 5 pressing the shoe part against saidform and pressing member, and Wipers adapted-to be moved into engagement with the shoe'part before the seam is pressed, said wipers being mounted to separate from each other andfrictionally to ten- 70 sion the shoe part laterally of'the seam as the pressing member is moved toward the form.

10; In a machine for operating-upon a curved of the shoe part in its normally concave state, the, work-engaging surface of said form being interrupted to receive the seam ridge, a member shaped and 'mounted for movement relatively to said form to press the entire length of the 5 seam ridge simultaneously, means for pressing the shoe part against said form and pressing member, and a plurality of wipers carried by said pressing member'and arranged to engage the shoe part in succession whereby one set of wipers 1O acts upon a portion of the shoe part previously tensioned by another set of wipers; 11. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe part having a normally curved surface from which a seam ridge extendswhichm consists in forming'the shoe part at the vicinity of the seam into its normally curved state, hold, ing portions of the shoe'part at each side but exclusive of the seam ridge against displacement laterally thereof, and then applying pressure to the seam ridge thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seam crease.

12. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe part having a normally concave surface from which a seam ridge extends which 25;

consists in forming the shoe part; at the vicinity of the seam into its normally curved state, gripping while in their normally curved form portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam ridge, and then applying pressure to 30.1

the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the;

rib and to flatten the seam crease.

13. That improvement in methods of operating upon a seamed shoe part having a normally con- 35;

cave surface from which a seam ridge extends which consists in forming the shoe part at the vicinity of the seam into its normally curved state, holding against displacement laterally of the seam portions of the shoe part contiguous 40 to but exclusive of the seam ridge, and then applying pressureto the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously. 7

14. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe quarter having a seam ridge 45v extending from its normally concave surface which consists in tensioning the shoe quarter laterally of the seam, the quarter at the vicinity of the seam being shaped in its normally curved state, gripping while in their normally curved 50 form portions of the quarter contiguous to but exclusive of the seam, and then applying pressure to the seam'and the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously. thereby to reduce the height-of the ridge and to flatten the seam 55 crease. 7

15. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe quarter having a seam ridge extending from its normally concave surface which consists in tensioning the quarter laterally of the seam over a form shaped and arranged to support the quarter at the vicinity of the seam in its normally curved state, while the quarter is thus tensioned applying pressure to the portions of the quarter contiguous to the seam without applying I to the seam or seam ridge any pressure directed heightwise of the ridge, and then applying pressure to the seam and the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seamcrease. r I 16. That improvement in methods of operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its normally concave surface which consists in tensioning the shoe part trans v versely of the seam while holding the shoe part at the vicinity of the same in its normally curved state, confining the sides of the seam ridge against lateral displacement, and then applying pressure successively to portions of the shoe part contiguous to the seam and to the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seam crease.

17. That improvement in methods of operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge' extending from its concave surface which consists in imparting to the shoe part laterally of the seam a succession of oppositely directed wiping strokes, confining the sides of the seam ridge against lateral displacement, gripping while in their normally curved form portions of the shoe part contiguous to the seam, and then applying pressure to the top of the seam ridge throughout its length simultaneously thereby to reduce its height and to flatten the seam crease.

18. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe quarter having a seam ridge extending from its normally concave surface which consists in tensioning the quarter laterally of the seam over a form shaped substantially complementary to the normally curved form of the quarter at the vicinity of the seam, pressing the upstanding portions of the seam ridge against each other, gripping while in their normally curved form portions of the quarter contiguous to the seam, and then applying pressure heightwise of the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the seam ridge and to flatten the seam crease.

19. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe part having a normally concave surface from which a seam ridge extends which consists in forming the shoe part at the vicinity of the seam in its'normally curved state, limiting displacement of the portions of the shoe part. at each side of the seam ridge laterally thereof, applying pressure to the seam throughout its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seam crease, and then applying an adhesive tape to the concave side of the shoe part over the seam ridge.

20. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe part having a normally concave surface from which a seam ridge extends which consists in forming the shoe part at the vicinity of the seam in its normally curved state, limiting displacement of both the seam ridge and portions of the shoe part at each side of the seam ridge laterally thereof, applying pressure to the seam throughout its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seam crease, and then affixing an adhesive tape to the concave side ofthe shoe part over the seam ridge by pressing the tape against the shoe part simultaneously at all points thereof covered by the tape.

21. That improvement in methods of operating upon a shoe part having a normally concave surface from which a seam ridge extends which consists in forming the shoe part at the vicinity of the seam into its normally curved state, holding against displacement laterally of the seam portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam ridge, applying pressure to the seam ridge throughout its entire length simultaneously, and then affixing an adhesive tape to the concave side of the shoe part by the application of heat andpressure simultaneously throughout against lateral displacement, applying pressure successively to portions of the shoe part contiguous to the seam and. to the, seam ridge through" out its entire length simultaneously thereby to reduce the height of the ridge and to flatten the seam crease, and then applying an adhesive tape to the concave side of the shoe part over the seam ridge.

That improvement in. methods of shaping shoe upper part over a form which consists in successively urging spaced portions at the edges of the area which is operated upon away from each other thereby to tension over the form the portions of the shoe part intermediate between spaced portions. and then applying pressure directly against the tensioned portions of the shoe part progressively from the edges of the area to be operated upon toward the central portion thereof. a

24. That improvement in methods of shaping a shoe upper part which consists in urging spaced tions of the shoe part away fromv each other thereby to tension the portions of the shoe part between. such spaced portions and then applying pressure directly against the shoe part progressively from each of said spaced portions toward the other.

25. That improvement in methods of operating upon a seamed shoe part, which consists in urging portions of the shoe part at opposite sides of the seam away from each other thereby to tension the shoe part transversely of the seain, applying pressure to the shoe part progressively from the said spaced portions toward the seam thereby to hold against displacement portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam and then applying pressure to the seam.

26. That improvement in methods of operating upon a seamed shoe part which consists in urging spaced portions of the shoe part at opposite sides of the seam away from each other thereby to tension the shoe part transversely of the seam, applying pressure to portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam thereby to hold them against displacement, and then applying pressure to the seam.

2'7. In a machine for operating upon. a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its normally concave shaped and arranged to support and shape the concave surface of the shoe part into its normally concave state, pressing means mounted for movement toward and away from the form, said means being constructed and arranged progressively to operate on the shoe part toward the seam ridge from points at each side thereof.

28. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part, a heated form shaped and arranged to support and shape a shoe part pressedthereagainst, and means cooperating with said form to tension the shoe part over the form and progressively to apply shapimg pressure directly against the shoe part from the edge of the area of the shoe part engaged 'by said means toward the center thereof.

29. In a machine for operating upon a shoe surface, a heated form,

upper part having a normally concave surface, a convexly shaped form arranged to engage and shape the concave surface of the shoe part into its normally concave state, means for-pressing the shoe part into engagement with the form arranged yieldingly to urge opposite-spaced portions of the shoe part away from each other thereby to tension portions of. the shoe part between said opposite points over the form and part into engagement with the form constructed and arranged successively to urge spaced portions of the shoe part at opposite sides of the seam away from each other thereby to tension the shoe part transversely of the seam and then to holdthe portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exclusive of the seam against the form, and means cooperating with said pressingmeans for applying pressure to the seam.

31. In a machine for operating upon a shoe upper part having a normally concave surface, a convexly shaped heated form arranged to support and shape the concave surface of the shoe part into its normally concave state, and a pressing member movable into engagement with the shoe part on the form, the pressing surface of said pressing member normally having a greater curvature than thatof the supporting surface of the form and being adapted to be shaped into conformity to the shape of the form by yielding and exerting shaping pressure directly against the shoe part progressively from the edges of the area to be operated upon by the pressing member toward the center thereof.

32. In a machine for operating upon a shoe upper part, a heated form, and a pressing member for pressing the shoe part into engagement with the form, the pressing surface of said member being adapted to yield into conformity to the shape of the form in response to pressure therebetween, said pressing surface being shaped pro-' gressively to engage and apply pressure to the shoe part from the marginal portion of the area of the shoe part to be operated upon toward the center thereof.

33. In a machine for operating upon a seamed shoe'part, a form shaped and arranged tosupport a substantial area of the shoe part at each her also being adapted to yield andexert shaping pressure directly against the shoe part pro gressively from the edges of the area operated upon by the pressing member toward the seam.

34. In a machine for operating upon a curved shoe part having a seam ridge extending from its concave surface, forms spaced to receive the seam ridge therebetween thereby to limit its lateral displacement; said forms being shaped and arranged to support the concave surface of a shoe part in its normally curved state, shaping means mounted for movement into engagement with portions of the shoe part contiguous to but exelusive of the seam ridge, a p-resser member mounted for movement between said forms into i such a position that its pressing surface is continuous with that of the forms, and operatorcontrolled means for causing said shaping means and pressing member successively to engage the shoe part, said operator-controlled means being operable to retract the shaping means to a limited extent without moving said pressing member.

THOMAS C. BOWEN.

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