US2007014A - Collar and method - Google Patents

Description

July 2, 1935. L @REW l2,007,01-f-1 COLLAR AND METHOD Filed Feb. 27, 1934 2 SheeS-Shee'I i?.v

Patented July 2, 1935 l *i y com AND Marl-lon j Greif, Baltimore, Ma., assigner' u L. oren .A j,& 'B1-o., Incorporated, a .corporation .of .Maryi' 'land 1 Animation lreim:ary 27, naar, :serial No. 713,077 8 claims. 01. re-.98)

'Tine invention relatesto va .collar .construction Figure 6 shows the :canvas and under collar for Vtailored `:garments .and .particularly .to' :the Vstands and blades yassembled prior to 4sewing under collar .and ycanvas ,or otherstiiiening matheir concave edges together .but vspaced yapart aerial by which '.the'outer, collar or portion lof fthe for convenience'of illustration, the .conca-ve ledges 155 collary which isl .e'xposedf to view .and .usually made being in alignment in ythe arrangement in which 5 .of the .garment material' is ,formed or shaped they are sewed together, being first jbrought into :and held vin .the-position 'which it fits the contact for this pulfDOSe. fwearen w Figure 7 is va plan of lthe collar support .in

. Inflaccordancewith :the existing practice the c'ludin'g the canvas and under collar inthe posi-y w .unde'rcollar and theacan-vas stiffening are lmade tion which they take immediately afterfthev rst `lo in a single piece .cut fonthe bias and shrunk into line of stitching :has been applied. f

shape. Having been-shrunk finto shape, the un- Figure l3 is a plan ofthe same Aafter the stands .der .col-lar and stiffening' material which are in- Ahave'-been tur-ned outwardly and'restitched.'

y.tended to give shape to the .collar are subject to Figure 9-is a fragmentary viewieeking at the :stretching and :hence to deformation so thatjthe inside of the garment, TJ011e 00118113 being turned l5 :.t `of the garment 'is' gradually lost during the down to normal position, a lportion"beingj-broke'n period of wear and lwhen lpressed.does'not regain Yaway to show the canvas stand.

its .original shape'.A The'repair shops which at- Figure -10 is a Afragmentary view of the outside :tend .tovr pressing have little knowledge .ofnthe of the garment With the (2011er irl the Same `D051- 29 .original design of the garment, and-further-this tion a 4portion being broken away `to. -shovv the 20 stretching by which thevcollar is formed lin the Ycall-vasblade. n firstldnstance can not be .performed Vin a satisv'Figure 11 `iS a fragmenbalyview ef the Outside factory manner after the garment is completed 401 back Of'the 0011er DOII'OD 0f the garment VYWith .so that the :garment .when Vonce .deformed vnever 'the vColla-1 turned upwardly,

The invention provides an improvedfunder llle 7. y collar which Iis iformedloy 'stitching itogetherfour Figure 13 vis a section 0n ",theline 13, I3 inFigstripsnf material, twoorcanvas anditwo .formi-ng ure 8, but before the sewing 0f the second seam. the undervcouar, eacnpairof strips .is preferably lIieljlre 14 is a Section'on the same line after 30 Yout 'with-the weave", vthe other .beinglcut on :the Sew-ing the second seam.

bias;` The strips-are'then-joinedLbyia.seamwhich Figure 1'5 is Still anethel Section .0.11 the Same connects two concavelyvcurved Iedges insuch a line after feather-stitching the .canvas to the manner that when -the fcollari is inverted Yfrom under Collar.

sewing position, it is automatically Vsprung into Referring tothe drawings by numerals, each shape giving a. predetermined setwhich vis not of which .is used to indicate the same or similar 35 rthe=result .of shrinking 'or.-deforming the .fabric parts, in theV derent figures, the collar indi- -so` that the t of the 'collar is V4permanent and cated .ina .general Way b y reference character l `can .not Vbe lost by stretching and is'substantially .comprisesa supprt indicated by v,reference char,-

withoutvaria'tion throughout the'life ofthegar-r ,ac tfer .2 eoveledzbyand Witha portionof the gar- 4o ment. ment material which may also .be referred ,to as 40 f In the-accompanying drawings I have illus- Ithe collar `proper, said covering beine indicated :tra-ted rawcollar and more particularly a collar ,by refefelvleharaeter. TheSllDpOrt COmPISeS -support-.for-taored garments embodying the .the undercollarcand the CMN-asi. The .under .feature-sof the invention inthepreferrediform. vCollar generally .Qf WOOlen .010th 0f a plain 0,019.1'

45 'rn'thenrawingsz y different from rthe Ygarment material, though '.it 45 Figure 1 Ais aitransverse vsection through fthe .may beplke thegarment material.

.completed collar;v y Y The kunder Cellar ,COIISSS 0f a Stand 6 lang 1a Figure 2 is a plan of the stand or base :pattern blade l, Vthe canvas ,likewise consists of'twopieces of thefunder collar.' rv f I i comprising "a stand g8 and lloladefil of identical ma PATENT @FFI-CE t0 Figure siis-aplan-or pattern of-theunder'collar shape with-'the under collar Stand 6 and blade 1. 60

blade` 0r leaf, i .f vThe stand forms the upright portion ofthe collar :FigureA Jis a pla-nor pattern of the canvas 'and-themed@ yOIIIIS the Collaragpf l stand orlbasel f f Y 4 A Inaccordance with Athe'invention the stands li Figure `v5vis -a plainl-c pattern of 'the canvas andfof the vunder collarandcanvas-are'preferl. V Y v vably-cut-inthedirectionofthe-weave'so-thatthe 155 warp and weft run in the direction of the length of the stand and transversely thereto respectively. The blades are preferably cut on the bias so that the Warp and weft are disposed in diagonal relation to the length of the blade. The exact manner of cutting the stand and blade in relation to the weave may not, however, be regarded as essential to the invention in its broader scope.

In assembling the stand and blade to form the collar support, the edges are sewed together and the stand is turned over to form an arcuate edge at 9 in Figure 1, which supports the arcuate fold or apex at the top edge of the collar at 95. ,The

important feature of the invention resides in the cutting and assembling of the'stand and blade of the under collar and canvas in such a way as to give the collar a permanent set and a permanent predetermined curvature so that stretching of the canves and under collar to form and shape the collar in accordance with the previous practice` is unnecessary, the stretching process being regarded as undesirable because theA result obtained is not permanent. The collars tted in this way have a marked tendency to lose their shape as the garment is worn.

, In accordance with the invention the edges of the stand and blade which are to be joined by stitching to form the collar, support, are cut with a concave curvature on one long side or edge the concavely curved edges of the under collar and canvas respectively to be sewed together in any suitable manner, one 4satisfactory method of joining the same being hereinafter described. The concave edge of the under-collar stand is vindicated by reference character I0, the corresponding concave edge of the under collar blade being indicated by reference character II, the concave edge of the canvas stand is indicated by reference character I2 and the concave edge of the canvas blade by reference character I4.

In accordance with the practice of the invention the concave edges ID and II of the under collar stand and blade and the concave edges I2 and I4 of the canvas stand and blade are sewed together to form the completed under collar and the completed canvas, the four sections assembled forming the collar support. This attachment of the concave edges of the sections of the under collar and canvasV may be accomplished in any convenient manner. In accordance with the preferred method of the invention the four sections, i. e., the stand 6 and blade 'I of the under collar and the stand 8 and blade 9 of the canvas are laid one on top of the other, with the edges of the blades extending outwardly beyond the edges of the stands, as best shown in Figure 12. In this gure the canvas blade 9 is on top. Immediately under it is the under collar blade 1. Next underlying the under collar blade 1 is the under collar stand 6, and underlying the under collar stand 6 is canvas stand 8.

It will be noted that the concave edges II and I4 of the blades extend well beyond the concave edges I and I2 of the stands. The concave edges as thus superimposed are then sewed together by a correspondingly curved line of stitching I5, the position Vof the blades and stands in forming 'this line of stitching being shown in Figure 7 and also in Figure 12. The stands 6 and 8 are then turned over and outwardly about the line of stitching I bringing them to the position shown in Figure 13. A curved line of stitching I6 is then sewed parallel to the rst line of stitch- The second line of Athe collar.

stitching I6 engages the stands on a line spaced inwardly from the line of stitching I5, while the edges I4 and II of the leaves are sewed on a line I6 spaced outwardly from the line of stitching I5 having reference to the stand and leaf sections as shown in Figure 12.

The under collar and canvas are then in the condition indicated diagrammatically in section in Figure 14. The canvas and under collar are next stitched together in any suitable manner as by means of feather-stitching II extending along The collar support 2 being covered with the garment fabric 3 is then folded at the .seam as shown in Figure 1, and sewed to the garment by means of` a line of stitching I8 in accordance with the usual practice.

While the method described is the preferred method it will be understood that the under collar stand and blade and the canvas stand and blade may be assembled in any suitable manner by sewing their concave edges together attaching them in registration to form the completed support and deflecting the stands from the leaves.

By sewing the concave edges of the stand and blade together and then deecting the stands as described, the collar is given a permanent set without stretching, whereas in accordance with the old methods the shape of the collar which was obtained by stretching, was lost by degrees during the wear of the garment as the fabric tended to recover its original shape.

In addition to the improved shaping effect obtained by thus sewing the concave edges of the stand and blade together and then deflecting the stands, the invention provides an increased permanency of collar set and shape by the union of a straight stand, i. e., a stand cut in the direction of the weave with a blade out on the bias so that the blade thus cut being subject to deflection is shaped and set in accordance with the stand by the union of the concave edges which are subsequently reversed in the completion of the collar.

I have thus described specifically and in detail my improved collar support and method of making the same, the description being thus specic and in detail in order that the manner of constructing, applying, operating, and using the invention may be fully understood, however, the specic terms herein are used descriptively rather than in a limiting sense, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of making a collar for tailored garments which consists in forming an under collar stand and blade and a separate stand and blade of canvas, all said stands and blades having corresponding concavely curved edges, sewing the concavely curved edges of the respective stands and blades of the under collar and the canvas together, deflecting the stands from the blades with the under collar stand and blade on the inside thus giving the collar the desired curvature and set, covering the canvas which is on the outside with the garment material and sewing the edges of the stands and the covering to the collar opening of the garment.

2. The method of making a collar for a tailored garment which consists in cutting an under collar blade and a canvas blade on the bias of the fabric, cutting an under collar stand and a canvas stand with the threads of the fabric running lengthwise'thereof, all said stands and leaves having corresponding concavely curved edges of similar curvature and corresponding in length to the length of the collar fold or edge being formed stitching the concave edges of the under collar stand and blade and the concave edges of the canvas stand and blade respectively together, with the under collar on the inside, deflecting the stands from the leaves forming a collar support With the canvas on the outside and the under collar on the inside, covering the canvas with the garment material and sewing the collar to the edge of the collar opening of the garment.

3. 'I'he method of making a collar for a tailored garment which consists in cutting an under collar blade and a canvas blade on the bias of the fabric, cutting a separate under collar stand and a canvas stand with the threads of the fabric running lengthwise thereof, all said stands and blades having corresponding concavely curved cut edges of similar curvature and corresponding in length to the length of the collar fold or edge being formed, stitching the concave edges of the under collar stand and blade and the concave edges of the canvas stand and blade respectively together with the under collar on the inside, deflecting the stands from the blades, forming a collar support with the canvas on the outside and the under collar on the inside, sewing the canvas to the under collar throughout their area, covering the canvas with the garment material and stitching the collar to the edge of the collar opening of the garment.

4. The method of making a collar for a tailored garment which consists in forming an under collar stand and blade and a-separate canvas stand and a separate canvas blade all having concavely curved corresponding edges of substantially uniform length corresponding to the length of the collar fold'or edge, laying the stands and blades all in registration with the concave edges of the blades overlying the concave edges of the stands and extending beyond the same, stitching the concave edges of the stand to the blades in this position, turning thestands over outwardly about said stitching and into contact with the blades sewing the edges of the blades to the adjacent portion of the stands as thus turned outwardly forming a collar support with a permanent set of the desired curvature with the canvas outside and the under collar on the inside, covering the canvas with the garment material and sewing the collar to the collar opening of the garment.

5. The method of making a collar for a tailored garment which consists in forming an under collar stand and blade and a canvas stand and blade having concavely curved corresponding edges of substantially uniform length corresponding to `the length of the collar fold or edge, one said blade being cut on the bias and one said stand being cutwith the threads of the fabric running lengthwise thereof, laying the stands and blades all in registration with the concave edges of the vblades covering the concave edges of the stand lar stand and blade and a canvas stand and blade having concavely curved corresponding edges of substantially uniform length corresponding to the length ofV the collar fold or edge, both said stands being cut withvthe threads of the fabric running lengthwise thereof and both said blades being cut on the bias, laying the stands and blades all in registration with the concave edges of the blades covering the concave edges of the stands and extending beyond the same, stitching the concave edges of the stands to the blades in this,

position, turning the stands outwardly about said stitching to a position adjacent to the blades, sewing the edges of the blades to the adjacent por.

tion of the stands as thus turned outwardly forming a collar support with the canvas outside and the under collar on the inside, and covering the canvas with the garment material.

7. A collar for a `tailored garment comprising an under-collar composed of a separate stand and a blade and a canvas also composed of a separate stand and a blade, said stands and blades having concave edges sewed together to give the collar the desired curvature. the canvas being covered with garment fabric, one of the stands being cut with the threads of the fabric running longitudinally thereof and the blades being cut on the bias.

8. A collar for a tailored garment comprising an under-collar composed of a separatev stand and a blade and a canvas also composed of a separate stand and a blade, said stands and blades having concave edges sewed together to give the collar the desired curvature, the canvasbeing covered with garment fabric, one of the stands being cut with the threads of the fabric running longitudinally thereof and one of the leaves being cut on the bias.

IRVIN GREIF.

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