US1922943A - Fabric - Google Patents

Description

Aug.. 5, i933 A. A, GCBEILLE FABR I C Filed April 7, 1932 ,/'fgs 62 Patented Aug. l5, 1933 PATENT OFFICE FABRIC Alfred A. Gonnie, shannoek, a. i., wimmto Columbia Narrow Fabric Company, Shamrock, It. I., a Voluntary Association of Rhode Island Application April "l, 1932. Serial No. 603,723 4 claim. (ci. 13s-m) The invention relates to a woven fabric having elastic threads, of some material such as rubber or the like, interwoven therein and has for one of its objects to provide such a fabric of relatively thin or sheer material. Another object of this invention is to utilize the relatively fine rubber thread known as latex or lastex which is exuded or spun and is round 4in cross section and to prevent the same from creepv ing. in a fabric in which it is woven as one of` the component threads extending yin one direction.

j Another object of this invention is to provide .f

a fabric which -will be primarily elastically extendible in one direction but will also be secondarily elastically extendible in a direction atri' right angles thereto.

A further object of this invention is to twist some ofthe 'strands themselves to cause them" to bind the elastic strands and by this method-.f maintain the elastic strands in desired position.

A still further object of this invention is -the plaiting or shirring of a fabric by means of elastic strands woven therein rather than by aseparate operation in an additional machine after the fabric comes from the loom.

With these and other' objects in view, the in vention consists of certain novel features of construction, as will be more fully described. and particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawing:

Fig. 1 is a top plan view of a fragmental portion of the fabric embodying this'invention.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic view illustrating certain of the right angularly extending strands thereof, two strands with a right hand twist adjacent each other, alternating with two strands of a left hand twist.

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 of a modification showing one strand of right hand twist alternating with one strand of left hand twist.

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic sectional view across the cloth showing the highly twisted strands extending over and under strands at right angles thereto.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 after the stretching of the weaving has been released.

Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the rubber latex thread with a coverthereon.

Figs. 7 and 8 are side elevations of relatively non-elastic threads, one twisted in a right hand direction and the other twisted in a left hand direction. l

I use this invention especially in fabrics having some of the strandshighly twisted, such as thin or sheer fabrics as crepe-de-Chine, chiffon, georgette, etc., although other materials having similar characteristics, as will be more fully explained, may be used.

For one illustrative embodiment of this invention I have shown a crpe-de-Chine fabric in which I employ` a group of plurality of strands 10 of relatively non-elastic yarn and a smaller group of a plurality of strands 11 of elastic material Y. suchf asrubber, latex or lastex, as now known in ,the trade.l I have shown the elastic strands 1l andnon-elastic strands 10 in groups, although it will be understood that a single strand may a1- ternate with one or more elastic strands as desired as shown in Fig. 3, depending upon the partic'ular results or structure of fabric which is to be formed. The latex thread is a strand which is exudedor spun from rubber material and is substantially round in eromsection and may be covered'with a'. winding 12 of some relatively nonelastic textile material and usually of the same 'kind of material with which it is to be woven. In the Acrpe-de-Chine material, which I have shown, the elasticstrands ll and the non-elastic strands V10 have substantially no twist therein.

The strands 14 extend generally at right angles to the strands 10 and 11 and are of relatively non-elastic material and of the same kind of material as the non-elastic strands 10, but differ-from the strands 10 by being relatively highlyff-t'wisted. This relatively high twist causes these 'strands `14 to bind the strands at right angles thereto. especially the elastic strands, with which they: are interwoven. 4

In weaving, the component parts are under tension, as represented in Fig. 4, but as the'tension is released the highly twisted strand draw the strands about which they are woven close to gether as illustrated in Fig. 5 of the drawing to bind them in position.

A binding action satisfactory under some conditions will be had where the strands 14 are all twisted in the same direction, but I find that a better binding actionA is had where some of the ioo strands 15 aretwisted Awith a right hand twist in one direction and other strands 16 are twisted with a left hand twist in the opposite direction. I may use one strand 15 having a right hand twist and another strand 16 having a left hand twist next "thereto and alternate these strands 15 and 16 throughout the fabric or the` strands may be in groups of two right hand twists and two left hand twists or there may be three or four or more in the group or the structure may bevprovided with a lesser number in the group having left hand twisted strands than in a group having right hand twisted strands, depending released it will pucker in the form of usual crepe, and as;y illustrated in Fig. 1, laterally extending wrinkles or folds will be formed by contraction of the elastic strands to form a plaited fabric, with the elastic strands being straight or unf puckered and forming stripes inthe fabric. Also by reason of the highly twisted yarns running at right fangles to the elasticl strands, a stretch may be had to a more limited extent in the direction at right angles to these strands, and thus a fabric which may stretch in two right angularly extending directions is provided.

In fabric which I have illustrated the elastic strandsor the highly twisted strands may be either warp or filling threads, as in the structure which I have shown it is not material whether the rubbers be warps or wefts. It is often preferable however that the elastic strands be the warp threads and the highly twisted strands the filling threads, and I have so adopted this relation in the structure shown.

It is found that highly twisted thread,` especially where twisted in opposite directions as above shown, provides a crepe in which the rubber upon several stretchings of the fabric will not creep or move with reference to the other strands with which it is associated but rather the twist tightly binds these rubbers intheir position in the fabric.

The above illustrative description of the relatively non-twisted warp threads and the highly twisted filling threads define a particular embodiment of the invention for crpe-de-Chine where a puckering of the fabric is desired. Other uses of the invention would be for georgette or chiffon or of such sheer fabrics in which the variation from the crepe-de-Chine would involve relatively highly twisting, the non-elastic warp threads as well as the non-elastic filling threads, the non-elastic threadsbeing of the same material and having substantially the same amount of twist placed therein per inch of length.

I have found that the twist which it is best to use for the material which I have described is between 45 and 75 turns per inch, althoughA results in conformity in the teachings of this invention may be obtained with strands having a greater range of twists, such as for instance between three and a hundred five twists per inch, it being-understood that the greater the twist per inch, the greater the binding on the rubber strands in the fabric to prevent their creeping.

In the forming of crpe-de-Chine, which I have above cited as an illustrative embodiment of this invention, the same is frequently formed by weaving raw silk or silk containing a gum in its structure, and when this raw silk and rubber strands are woven together in an arrangement as above described, and then the fabric is taken from the loom, the Vsame is substantially fiat as the gummed or raw silk prevents the contraction of the rubber strands to a substantial extent. However, after this woven fabric is treated in its finishing process such as by degumming, by boiling or similar treatment, thensilk being then relieved of this stifl'ening gum will contract and a fabric is obtained which ispuckered, plaited or shirred by reason of the contraction of the rubbers. 'I'his means of obtaining this product is simplified materially from the previous method of ,passing the fabric through an additional operation, such as a sewing machine or the like with a special plaiting attachment to cause'the fabric to assume this form, and thus I improve `when made into' garments, it will lstretch and snugly flt the body which is desirable for many uses.

From the above it `will be observed that I may use the relatively fine or small diameter rubber strands of circular formation, such as the latex or lastex, and weave a sheer or thin fabric embodying any materials, the strands of which may be twisted although the invention is more particularly adapted for silk, spun silk or rayon.

'I'he foregoing description is directed solely towards the construction illustrated, but I desire it to be understood that I reserve the privilege of resorting to all the mechanical changes to which the device is susceptible, the invention being defined and limited only by the terms of the appended claims.

This case is directed to a species of shirred fabric, broader claims being contained in applicant's co-pending case Ser. No. 625,347.

I claim:

1. A shirrable material comprising groups of raw silk threads containing gum and groups of rubber threads under tension, said groups of rubber threads being more widely spaced than the groups of the silk threads thereby leaving shirrable material between the groups of rubber threads, said silk threads being sufficiently close together to hold said rubber threads under tension and said rubber threads being capable of shirring the material between said group of rubber threads when said gum is removed.

2. A shirrable material comprising groups of highly twisted raw silk threads containing gum and groups of rubber threads under tension, said groups of rubber threads being moreI Widely spaced than the groups -of silk threads thereby leaving shirrable material between the groups of rubber threads, said silk threads being sufficiently close together to hold said rubber threads un' der tension and said rubber threads being capable of shirring the material between said group of rubber threads when said gum is removed.

3. A method of forming a shirred material which consists in weaving groups of raw silk threads and groups of rubber strands under tension with the raw silk threads being sufllciently close together to hold the rubber strands under tension to form a relatively flat fabric when taken from the loom and with the groups of rubberl threads being more widely spaced than the groups of silk threads leaving shirrable material between the groups of rubber threads, and then de. gumming the raw'silk threads to permit the rub ber threads to draw lthe fabric together to shirr the same.

4. A shirrable material comprising groups of. raw silk threads containingnatural gum and spaced rubber threads under tension, said rubber threads being more widely spaced than the groups of raw silk threads thereby leaving shirrable material between the rubber threads, said silk threads being sumciently close together to hold said rubber threads under tension and saidl rubber threads being capable of shirring the material between said rubber threads when said gum' is removed. l

ALFRED A.

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