US1872596A - Jacquard pattern mechanism for knitting machines and method of patterning effected thereby - Google Patents

Description

Aug. 16, 1932.

LAwsoN ET AL 1,872,596 JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES AND METHOD OF PATTERNING EFFECTED THEREBY Filed Dec. 9, v1927 6 Sheets-Sheet l n, aqw. ys.

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Aug. 16, 1932. 1 LAWSQN E1' AL 1,872,596l

- JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES AND METHOD OF PATTERNING EFFECTED THEREBY Filed Dec. 9, 1927 6 Sheecs--SheeI 2 Aug 16, 1932- J. LAwsoN ET AL 1,872,596

JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES AND METHOD OF PATTERNING EFFECTED THEREBY F-iled Dev. 9, 1927 6 SheeS-Sheet 3 y my' Allg. 16, 1932. J, LAWSON E1' AL 1,872,596

JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES AND METHOD 0F PATTERNING EFFECTED THEREBY Filed D60. 9. 1927 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 12W/vena ns JoZa/n Law@ on, lloe'HI/awsow Aug. 16, 1932. J, LAWSQN ET AL 1,872,596

JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES AND METHOD 0F 'PATTERNING EFFECTED THEREBY Filed Deo. 9, 1927 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 x I lmllh v 2 @o n e/ 2o /9 v l I ./7 Iii/vena rvs.- Joa/zi/L a/wsow,

5? erHLa/wsow- @y um f Afl/MW Hays Allg. 16, 1932. 1 LAWSON ET AL 1,872,596

JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES AND METHOD 0F PATTERNING EFFECTED THEREBY Filed Deu. 9, 1927 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Patented Aug. 16, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENT orf-Ica JOHN LAWSON AND ROBERT H. LAWSON, OF PAWTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND. ASSIGNORS T HEMPHILL COMPANY, OF CENTRAL FALLS, RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION or MASSACHUSETTS JACQUARD PATTERN MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES .AND METHOD 0F PAT.

TERNING EFFECTED THEREBY v.Application led December 9, 1927. Serial No. 288,946.

This invention relates to jacquard patterning mechanism fol` knitting machines as well as to the method of patterning effected thereby and the resulting fabric.

In order that the principle of the invention may be readily understood, we have disclosed a single embodiment of the mechanism of our invention in the accompanying drawings, wherein- Fig. 1 is an end elevation of a circular knitting machine having the jacquard mechanism of our-invention applied thereto;

Fig. la is a vertlcal central section of a plunger mechanism employed with the jacu,l quar mechanism;

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a vertical section and elevation of the needle cylinder and a vertical section of parts of the jacquard drum, and showing also certain of the sinkers and associated parts;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the sinker ring with parts broken out and showing also .the j acquard drum in plan;

Fig. 4 is a' development of a portion of the circle of knitting needles, showing the feedinnr of the yarns or threads thereto;

Fig. 5 is a horizontal section of the fabric receiving tube and the jacquard drum and showing also the gear supporting plate for saidtube and directly associated parts;

Fig. 6 is a vertical section on the line 6--6 of Fig. 5 taken through the lower part of the fabric receiving tube, its gear, the supporting plate, etc.;

Fig. 7 is an end elevation of the mechanism shown in Fig. 5; l c

Fig. 8 is a detail in plan of the feed mechanism for the jacquard drum;

Fig. 9 is a sideelevation thereof; Fig. 10 is an elevation of the opposite side thereof;

Fig. 11 is an end elevation thereof; and

Fig. 12 is a vertical section looking toward the left'on the line 12-12 of Fig. 9..

Vhile the jacquard patterning mechanism herein disclosed may be employed in connection with other `types of knitting machines than that here indicated, we have selected for illustration a circular hosiery knitting 'sition desirabl machine, such, for example, as of the general type known as the Banner and disclosed in the patten to Hemphill, No. 933,443. The patterning may be effected by any desired or suitable stitch variation, as, for example, plating or vreverse plating, tucking, open sinker loop or so-called lace work, or rei'nforcing by employment of an additional thread or yarn. Without limiting our invention thereto, we have herein disclosed means mentalities, and preferably movement of said instrumentalities transversely of the needle series, effects yarn or thread engagement, so that two plating yarns which are fed in a plating relation are reversed in podurin the loop formln operation,`so t at the ace or front threa appears at the. back of the fabric and vice versa, all as fully` disclosed in said Patent N0.1,605,896.

As disclosed in said-Lawson Patent No. 1,605,896, there is provided one or more dial disks, of the general type shown at 44, in said paterit, for effecting the positioning of the said instrumentalities.

By the mechanism shown in the' patent to Lawson, No. 1,605,896, change from plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, may be effected at any wale of the fabric at will.

, While this is true of each wale so far as any one course considered alone is concerned, there are limitations in the action -of the mechanism therein disclosed which prevent change from plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, at each and every loop of any course regardless of what has been done in each and every preceding course and regardless of what may be done in each and every succeeding course. An important object of the present yinvention is to provlde means whereby, throughout an extended number of courses, change may be made from plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, at each and every loop or stitch throu hout all of said courses, regardless of what as been done or is to be done at any of the other loops or stitches of any of said number of courses. In the mechanism shown, we have provided a jacquard drum or member of such height or length as to control all the stitches throughout a large number of consecutive courses, as, for example, forty or more, assuming that the jacquard drum is racked continuously in one direction one step for each course, after which the drum ma be Ireturned to its initial position and rac ed as desired until the bottom of the leg of the stocking is reached or the end of the knitted fabric of any character. If, however, the drum be not racked every course, it is obvious that the number of courses controlled is greatly increased. The purpose of our invention (assuming merely for purpose of description that the pattern or designing is effected by change from plating to reverse plating, or the reverse) is to provide figures of various sizes, or pictures, names, letters or other representation throughout a very extensive part of the stocking or other knitted fabric.

Referring to the drawings, we have in Fig. 3 represented at 1 the needle cylinder of a circular hosiery knitting machine, such, for example, as that shown in the Lawson Patent No. 1,605,896. The said cylinder has at its lower end a ear which meshes .with and drives a tube 2, est shown in Fig. 1 and through which the knitted product passes downwardly from the needle cylinder. At its lower end the said tube has fast thereto a horizontally positioned gear 3. At its upper end the knitting machine is provided with any desired and preferably the usual web holder bed ring 4 provided with radial grooves, as indicated at 5 in Figs. 3 and 4. Each of the said grooves receives not only the usual web holder or so-called sinker 6 such as shown in the said Lawson Patent No. 1,605,896, but also receives a special instrumentalit 7 of the general character shown in said atent No. 1,605,896, said elements being wholly disconnected from each other and ca able of independent radial movement in sai grove. For further description of the manner in which said instrumentalities cooperate to effect changes from plating to reverse plating, reference is made to such patent.

In the sinker cam ring 8, we provide three substantially concentric pathways indicated in Fig. 3 at 9, 10, 11, the innermost of which receives the butts 12 of the regular web holders, moved in and out in the usual manner. The special instrumentalities 7 are longer than the regular web holders, and the butts thereof are adapted to be received either in the outermost pathway 11 or the intermediate pathwaylO. I

lVhen said butts are in the outermost pathway, as indicated with respect to the s ecial instrumentalities 7 in Fig. 3, normal p ating occurs at the needle corresponding thereto. A cam or other suitable means controls the communication between the intermediate pathway and the outermost pathway, so that when said instrumentalities are pushed inward by reason of the outer ends of said instrumentalities being engaged by the surface or peripheral wall of the jacquard drum 13, the butts of such instrumentalities pass into the intermediate pathway, and therefore cooperate to effect reverse plating at the needles corresponding thereto, as will be understood by reference to the said Lawson Patent No. 1,605,896. When, however, the outer end of a special instrumentality 7 enters one' of the openings 14 in the peripheral surface of the jacquard drum 13, the butt of said special instrumentality remains in the outermost path 11, and normal plating occurs upon the needle pertaining to said special instrumentality.

The needle cylinder is provided with independent needles of any suitable type, but preferably of the latch needle type, as indicated at 15 in Fig. 3.l A series of yarn fingers is provided similar to those, it may be, employed in the Banner machine. Among said yarn fingers are employed by us two so relatively positioned that the two threads therefrom are fed to the needles in a plating relation. If desired, greater tension may be imparted to one of the threads than to the other. For example, greater tension may be imparted to the. thread that is fed lowermost to the needles as disclosed in the patent to Lawson, No. 1,605,895, Reissue No. 16,584.

l/Vhile either the needle cylinder orthe cam support maybe rotated, we desirably rotate the needle cylinder', and as the fabric receiving tube is secured to and depends from the needle cylinder, it rotates therewith at the same speed as the needle cylinder. The gear` i 3 secured to the lower end of the fabric vtubeis positioned within a circular depression 16 in a plate 17 supported by the bed of the machine as indicated in Fig. 5, secured at its ends tothe legs or framework of the machine. The construction is such that the gear 3 rotates in synchronism with the needle cylinder. It meshes with a gear 19 of equal diameter therewith and having the same number of teeth. The said gear 19 is provided with a hub 20 which by means of a set screw 21 is fast upon a vertical shaft 22 which, as shown most clearly in Figs. 1 and 2, extends entirely through the jacquard drum 23. The said drum is so secured to said shaft 22 as to rotate therewith but with capacity to be moved axially along the same. For this Aius purpose we preferably provide the said drum with upper and lower ends, the former of which is shown at 24 in Fig.'3. The said ends are received between, but are not secured to, the hub- like portions 25, 26 of two brackets 27, 28. The shaft 22 is loosely received in said brackets 25, 26. Said brackets are connected together by a vertical rod 29, shown most clearly in Fig. 2, and the rack hereinafter referred to assists in securing said brackets together. The said brackets, as hereinafter stated, are moved up and down by the rack hereinafter referred to, and the drum is held between the said brackets 27, 28 on the shaft 22. The shaft 22 is provided with a lengthwise extending groove or slot 22', and the end 24 of the drum 23 is provided with a hub 24, in which the shaft 22 is received in such manner as to permit the described axial movement of the drum 23. Within said slot or groove 22a is received a key or spline 222') that may be held in position by a setscrew 220. In this manner the jacquard drum is rotated in synchronism with the needle cylinder, making one complete rotation for 011e complete rotation of the needle cylinder, and the said drum is moved axially i along the 'shaft 22 in accordance with the requirements of the pattern. The said j acquard drum 23 is provided upon its peripheral surface with holes 14 arranged according to the-desired pattern. Desirably the entire peripheral surface of the jacquard drum is provided with appro riate slots corresponding to the pattern or a large number of successive courses of knitting, but in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, we have represented only a part of the peripheral surface'of the drum as provided with such slots and have done so merely for convenience of illustration. In actual practice, the entire peripheral surface of they v reciprocated in synchronism with the movements of the needle cylinder but the feeding mechanism forimparting a step by step axial movement to the jacquard drum is desirably thrown out of operation at the commencement of the heel and again at the commencement of the toe, being in operation for the leg and the foot.

While any suitable means may be employed to impart axial ystep by step movement to the jacquard drum 23, we'preferably employ the following means.

, The brackets 27, 28, which are connected together by the vertical rod 29 have secured to them, as by nuts 30, 31 a vertical rack 32 having teeth 33. The teeth of said rack are adapted to be engaged by a pinion 34 which is carried by the upright arm 35 of a bell crank lever pivoted at 36 upon a block 37. The said block has a hub like portion 38 fast upon an upright post or bar 39 of the machine. Any suitable means may be employed to rotate the-pinion 34, but herein for the purpose there is provided a lever arm 40 to which is pivotally secured at 41 near its outer end an upright link or connecting rod 42, which at its lower end, as shown most clearly in Fig. l, is pivotally connected at 43 to a lever 44 pivoted at 45 upon a bracket 46 secured tothe framing of the machine. Upon the lever 40 is pivoted at 47 a pawl 48 engaging the teeth of a ratchet 49 that is fast with the pinion 34, being mounted co-axially therewith. A holding pawl 50 is also desirably provided.

It will be understood from the foregoing description that each downward movement of the link or connecting rod 42 imparts turning movement to the pinion 34 and hence to the rack 32, so as consequently to move the jacquard drum 23 one step upwardly. Such step is desirably of just sufficient extent to correspond to one course of the knitted fabric so that a new annular row of openings or formations of the jacquard drum 23 is presented to the special instrumentalities 7.

While any suitable means may be employed to move the connecting rod 42, we desirably employ t-he following mechanism.

The usual quadrant 51 is shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1, as pivoted at 52. It is moved automatically in the well known manner that need not be described, and rigid therewith or fast upon the horizontal shaft 52 of said quadrant is a projection or lug 53 which,

upon each contraclockwise movement of the' qiadrant strikes the lever 44 so as to swing t e same downwardly and therefore move downwardly the spring controlled connecting rod 42 and thus through the lever 40 impart a slight degree of turning movement to the pinion 34, and thereby move the rack 33 sufiiciently to present another annular row of openings of the jacquard drum 23 to the special instrumentalities 7.

Means are provided to throw the pinion 34 out of engagement with the teeth of the rack 32 at desired times, such, for example, as at the commencement of the heel or the commencement of the toe, the said pinion being desirably returned to engagement with the teeth 33 of the rack 32 upon the completion of the heel and the completion of the toe. While for this purpose any suitable means may be' provided, we preferably employ the following mechanism.

To the outer end 54 of the arm 55 of the bell crank lever pivoted at 3G, there is pivotally secured a vertical rod 56 having a' vertical slot 57 in its upper end receiving a pin upon the end of the said lever arm 55. Said rod 5G, as shown also in Fig. 1, extends downwardly and at its lower end is pivotally connected at 57 to a lever 58 which is pivoted at 59 upon the framing and at its opposite end is provided with a toe or projection 60 adapted to ride upon suitable cams generally indicated at 61 upon the pattern drum 62 upon the shaft 63. It will be understood that the cam or cams 61 are of such character as to rock the lever carrying the pinion 34 at any desired times, whether for the heel and for the toe or at other times depending upon the pattern. y

Desirable means are provided tending conlstantly to hold the pinion 34 (pivoted at 34') in constant engagement with the rack 33, but permitting the said parte to be relatively moved out of cooperative relation. For this purpose, we have, in Figs. 9 and elsewhere, shown a rod 64 secured at one end 65 to the bracket 38, and at its other end passing through an opening 66 in the end of the lever arm 35. A coil spring 68 surrounds the said rod 64 between the lever arm 35 and the of the openings 14 have acted upon the e-l spective sinkers, the jacquard drum is returned to its initial or lower position. Preferably we provide a cushioning device for the jacquard drum 23, so that the pinion 34 may' be disengaged from the rack 33 and the jacquard drum permitted rapidly to descend, but bein checked in its descent by the cushioning evice. While such cushioning device may be yof any suitable character, we

have herein for the purpose represented the rod 29 as ta ped at its lower end for the reception of t e threaded end 69 of a plunger` rod 70 in axial alignment with said rod 29.

. Said plunger rod 70 is received in a tube or casing 71 provided with a vent or small opening 72 y in the lower end thereof, through which the air is slowly. expelled in the downv ward movement of the plunger rod 70. Said tube 71 is suitably supported by a bracket 7 2, shown most clearly in Fig. 2 as having a hub 73 receiving said tube 71. Above and below said head 73 are provided collars 74, 75 secured to the said tube 71 and holding the same lixedly in position. It is to be understood thatthose special instrumentalities whose outer ends or tails are in the slots of the jacquard drum when said drum is moved axially, rock up and/or down in their slots without impairment in any way of the design or the fabric being produced, and without impairment 0r injury in a'nyway of any of the parts. The amount of axial movement of the jacquard drum from one course to the next is obviously very slight, and the amount v of rocking movement of the special instrumentalities to accommodate or allow for the axial movements of the jacquard drum is also actually small. There is selective control for every stitch in every course.

It will be clear from the foregoing description that we have provided means whereby a circ'ular knit or seamless stocking, or other tubular or like fabric, may be provided with plating or reverse plating variations at any desired stitch of any course revardless of what has been done or is to be done at any of the other loops or stitches of any of the preceding or succeeding courses. While we have not herein represented a stocking, hose or other fabric constructed in accordance with our invention, it is to be understood that we claim such fabric asherein described as a part of our invention.

In Fig. 4 is illustrated the means for feeding the two yarns or threads in a plating relation. In said figure is shown a series of yarn fingers, of which the fingers 76, 77 are used to feed in plating relation the two plating yarns 78, 79. The knitting cams arel numbered 81.

Having thus described one specific embodiment of means wherebythe method of our invention may be carried out vand whereby the article of our invention may be made, it is to be *understood that although specific terms are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense and not for purposes of limitation, the sco e of the invention being set forth in the ollowmg claims.

We claim:

1. In a knitting machine having a series i of independent needles, and having means to supply yarn thereto means individual to the needles respectively and particlpatingln the stitch formation to cause stitch varlation, means cooperating with said last mentioned means whereby stitch variation may be effected at any cast-off stitch of a course regardless of anyl stitch variation in cast-'off stitches in any preceding course or any succeeding course. j

2. In a circular knitting machine having a series of independent needles, operating means therefor, and means to feed a yarn or yarns; meansindividual to the needles respectively and participating in the stitch formation to cause stitch variation pattern controlling means cooperating with said last mentioned means whereby stitch variation may be effected at each or any cast-off stitch of a course regardless of the stitch variation in cast-olf stitches at any stitch of any precedin or any succeeding course.

3. In a knitting machine having a series of independent needles, and having means for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation; means individual to the needles for efto whether normal lating or reverse plating is to occur at any sttch in succeeding courses.

4. ln a circular knitting machine having independent needles, and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a lating relation, instrumentalities individua to the needles and cooperating with one 0r more of the yarns to effect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, and pattern means potentially active upon said instrumentalities at every stitch, thereby effecting change from normal to reverse platmg, or the reverse, at any stitch invany course regardless of the character of the stitches in any of the preceding or the succeeding courses.

cooperating with one or more of the yarns to effect change from normal plating to reverse lating, or the reverse, and a jacquard memer for controlling the movement of said instrumentalities.

6. In a knitting machine havingv independent needles and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a platln relation; instrumentalities individual to t e needles and, cooperating with one or more of the yarns to effect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, a Jacquard member for controlling the movement of said instrumentalities, and means to impart incremen- ,tal or`step-by-step movement to said jacquard 40 member.

7 In a knitt'ng machine having independent needles, and having two yarn fingers occupying unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation; instrumentalities cooperating with one or more of the yarns to effect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, a jacquard member for controlling the movementof said instrumentalities, and means to cause incremental and also rotativemovement to said jacquard member.

8. In a circular knitting machine having independent needles and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation;

sinkers movable transversely of the needle series and cooperating with one or more of the yarns to effect change from normal to reverse plating, or the reverse, and means potentially active upon said sinkers at the formation of every stitch for effecting change fromvnormal to reverse platng, or the reverse, at any stitch in any course regardless of the character of the stitches at any of the 5 preceding or-lt-he succeeding courses.

9. In a circular knitting machine having independent needles and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation, sinkers coo erating with one or more of the yarns to e ect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, and a jacquard member for controlling the movement of said sinkers.

10., In a circular knitting machine having independent needles and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation, rsinkers cooperating with one or more of the yarns to effect change from normal plating -to reverse plating, or the reverse, a acquard member for controlling the movement of said sinkers, and means to impart incremental or step-by-step movement to said jacquard member.

11. In a circular knitting machine having independent vneedles and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation, sinkers cooperating with one or more of the yarns to effect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, a jacquar member for controlling the movement of said sinkers, and means to cause incremental or step-by-step axial movement of said jacquard member and also rotative movement thereof.

12. In a knitting machine having a series of independent needles and having means to supply a constant plurality of yarns thereto so as to form and cast off in each course the loops at all the needles receivinv yarn, and means cooperating with the needles to effect stitch variation at predetermined needles in a course regardless of any predetermined stitch variation in any preceding or succeedf ing course, said last mentioned means including a surface having a formation corresponding to each stitch that is to be varied during operation.

13. In a knitting machine having a. series of independent needles and having means to supply a constant plurality of yarns thereto so as to form and cast off in each course the loops at all the needles receiving yarn, and means cooperating with the needles to effect stitch variation at predetermined needles in al course regardless of any predetermined stitch variation in any preceding or succeeding course, said last mentioned means including a surface having a formation corresponding ,to each stitch that is to be varied during operation.

14. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to supply two' any such stitch' change in any preceding or succeeding course, said last mentioned means including a surface having a formation corresponding to each stitch that is to be varied during operation.

15. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to supply two `yarns thereto in aplating relation, so as to form and to cast o in each course the loops at all the needles receiving yarn, and means cooperating with said needles to effect vchange from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, during the stitch forming operation, and pattern controlling means active upon said last mentioned means to effect such stitch change at any stitch of a course regardless of any such stitch change in any preceding or succeeding course, said pattern controlling means including a rotatable jacquard drum.

l16. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to supply .two yarns thereto in a plating relation, so as to form and to cast oil' in each course the loops at all the needles receiving yarn, and means cooperating with said needles to effect change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, during the stitch forming operation, and pattern controlling means active upon said last mentioned means to effect such stitch change at any stitch of a course regardless of any such stitch change in any preceding 'or succeeding course, said pattern controlling means including a rotatable and axially movable jacquard drum. 4

17. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to supply two yarns thereto in a plating relation, so as to form and to cast off in each course the loops at all the needlesreceiving yarn, and means cooperating with said needles to effect change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, during the stitch forming operation, and pattern controlling means active upon said last mentioned means to effect such stitch change at any stitch of a course regardless of any such stitch change in any preceding or succeeding course, said pattern controlling means including a rotatable drum having a line of circumferentially arranged formations corresponding to stitches of a course. 18. In a knitting machine having'a series of needles and having means occupying an unvarying position during yarn feeding to supply two yarns thereto in a plating relation, so as to form and'to cast off in each course the loops at all the needles receiving yarn, and means cooperating with said needles to effect change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, during the stitch forming operation, and pattern controlling means to effect such stitch change at any stitch of a course regardless of any such stitch change in any preceding or succeeding course, said pattern controlling means including a rotatable drum having a plurality of lines 0f Circumferentially arrangedl formations corresponding to stitches of a plurality of courses,

and means for shifting said drum from onegardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course said last mentioned means including a jacquard surface having a plating controlling formation corresponding to each stitch. 4the character of whose plating is to be changed.

20. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means occupying unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means indivldually cooperating with the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vlce versa, and means whereby such change in plating may be effected at any stitch in a course regardless of change in plating in an)7 preceding or succeeding course, said means mcludin a rotatable jacquard drum having individua controlling formations for stitches so to be changed in plating.

21. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means individually cooperating with the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, and means whereby such change in plating may be effected at any stitch in a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course, said means including a rotatable and axially movable drum.

22. In a lmitting machine having a series of needles and having means for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means individual to the needles for effecting from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, and means acting upon said last mentioned means whereby such change in plating may be effected at any stitch in the course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course, said means includ ing a rotatable jacquard drum having individual controllingv formations for stitches so to be changed in plating havinga line of circumferentiallyl arranged stitch controlling formations corresponding to stitches of a course.

23. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means inchange dividual to the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, and means whereby such change in plating may be effected at any stitch in a course regardles of change in plating in any preced-l ing or succeeding course, said means including a jacquard member provided with formations that co-act to determine the periodicity of the change from normal to reverse plating or vice versa.

24. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means individual to the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vloe versa, and means whereby such change in plating may be effected at any stitch in a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding orsucceeding course, said means including a acquard member'provided with formations that co-act to determine the periodicity of the change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, and means to move said jacquard member soA as to present different formations, thereby effecting pattern changes in normal or reverse plating.

25. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to supply two yarns thereto in a plating relation, sinker like instrumentalities for effecting change from normal to reverse platingorthelike,andjacquard means for controlling said sinkers to produce change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, at any stitch of a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course.

26. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to supply two yarns thereto in a plating relation, sinker-like instrumentalities for effecting change from normal to reverse plating or the like, and jacquard means for controlling said Einkers to produce change from normal to reverse plating, o1' vice versa, at any stitch of a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course, said jacquard means including a rotatable drum.

27. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means to Supply two yarns thereto Vin a plating relation, sinkerlike instrumentalities for effecting change.

from normal to reverse plating or the like, and jacquard means for controlling said sinkers to produce change from normal to lreverse plating, or vice versa, at any stitch of a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course, said acquard means including a drum that is rotatable and axially movable. i x

28. In a circular knittind machine having independent needles, and tliaving means to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation, instrumentalities individual to the needles cooperating with one or more of the yarn.,l to effect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, and a jacquard member for controlling the movement of said instrumentalities. y

29. In a circular knitting machine having F independent needles and having means to feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation;

instrumentalities individual to the needles 30. In a circular knitting machine havingl independent needles, and having meansjto feed two yarns thereto in a plating relation; instrumentalities individual to the needles cooperating with one or more of the yarns'to effect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, a jacquard member for controlling the movement of saidinstrumentalities, and means to cause incremental and also rotative movement to said jacquard member.

31. That process of effecting plating and reverse plating in. knitted fabrics lwhich comprises, feeding a plurality of yarns in a plating relation to aseries of needles by yarn guides occupyingV an unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating, causing instrumentalities individual to the needles to cooperate with -the yarns and vneedles so as to produce normal or reverse 'plat1ng,and controlllng such action at each stitch in each course irrespective of the control at any stitch in any preceding course.

32. That process of effecting plating and reverse platingin knitted fabrics which comprises, feeding a plurality of yarns in a plating relationto a series of needles by yarn guides occupying `an unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating, causing'instrumentalities individual to the needles to cooperate with the yarns and needles so as to produce normal or reverse plating, and controlling such action at each stitch ink each course irrespective of the control at any stitch in any preceding or succeeding courses. 's

33. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means, occupying unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating, to supply two yarns thereto -in a plating relation, s o as to form and to cast off in each course the loops at all the needles receiving yarn, and means individual to the needlesv and cooperating .with said needles to effect change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, during the stitch forming operation, and pattern controlling means having a stitch-plating-change formation for each stitch to be changed to effect in a plating relation, so as to form and to cast off in each course the loops at all the needles receiving yarn, and means individual to the needles and cooperating withV said needles to effect change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, during the stitch forming operation, and pattern controlling means having a stitch-plating-change formation for each stitch to be changed to effect such stitch change at any stitch of'a course 1 reverse plating, or vice versa, and means having a stitch-plating-change formation for each stitch to `be changed whereby such change in plat-ing may .be eected at any stitch in a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course.

` 36. In a knitting machine having a series of needles and having means, occupying unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating, for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means individual to the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, and means whereby such change in plating may be effected at any stitch in a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course, said means including a rotatable drum having a stitch-plating-change formation for each stitch to be changed.

37. Ina knitting machine having Va series of needles and having means for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means individual to the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, and means whereby lsuch change in plating may be effected at any stitch in a course regardless of change in plating in any preceding or succeeding course, said means including a acquard member provided with formations that co-act to determine the periodicity of the change from normal to reverse plating or vice versa.

38. In a knitting machine having a series of independent needles, and having means, occupying unvarying position during both normal and reverse plating, for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, means individual to the needles for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or vice versa, at any stitch in a course regardless of the eX- istence of normal plating or reverse plating at the'stitches of the preceding courses and without regard to whether normalv plating or reverse plating is to occur at any stitch in succeeding courses, said last mentioned means including a jacquard surface having a plating change at each stitch according to the pattern.

39. In a circular knitting machine having independent needles, and having means, occupying unvarying osition during both normal and reverse p ating, for feeding two yarns thereto in a plating relation, instrumentalities individual to the needles and cooperating with one or more of the yarns to edect change from normal plating to reverse plating, or the reverse, and means for effecting change from normal to reverse plating, or the reverse, at any stitch in any course regardless of the character of the stitches in any of the preceding or the succeeding courses said last mentioned means including a jacquard surface having a plating change at each stitch according to the pattern. 40. A circular knitting machine having a needle cylinder, a cam cylinder, said cylinders being relatively rotatable, a circular series of independent needles, means to supply yarn thereto, means individual to the needles respectively and by the control of which individual means stitch variation is effected at the needles, and jacquard means for effecting such control at any stitch of a course, regardless of any stitch variation in any other course, said jacquard means including a member rotatable about an axis parallel to and in proximity to that of the needle cylinder, said member having governing formations at different elevations adapted to act selectively upon said individual means, thereby governing stitch variation.

41. A circular knitting machine having a needle cylinder, a cam cylinder, said cylinders being relatively rotatable, a circular series of independent needles. means to supply yarn thereto, means individual to the needles respectively and by the control of which individual means stitch variation is effected at the needles, and jacquard means for effecting such control at any stitch of a course, regardless of any stitch variation in any other course, said jacquard means including a member rotatable about an axis parallel to the needle cylinder, said member having pattern characteristics arranged in rows and selectively controlling the stitch variation, and means controlling the presentation of said pattern characteristics.

42. A circular knitting machine having a needle cylinder` a cam cylinder, said cylinders being relatively rotatable, a circular series of independent needles, means to supply yarn thereto, means individual to the needles respectivelyvand by the control of which individual means stitch variation is effected at the needles, and jacquard means for effecting such control at any stitch of a course, regardless of any stitch variation in any other course, said jacquard means including a member rotatable about an axis parallel to and in proximity to that of the needle cylinder, said member having governin formations at different elevations adapte to act selectively upon said individual means, lthereby governing stitch variation, said member rising above the level of the bed of the machine so as to present its said governing formations above said level.

In testimony whereof, we have signed our names to this specification.

' JOHN LAWSON.

ROBERT H. LAWSON.

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