US1742816A - Fold-over collar - Google Patents

Description

FOLD OVER COLLAR Filed Aug. 2, 1928 R. O. KENNEDY ET AL Z nuev/r n@ \\\w\\um z M 2 v w i i .v M 2 Jan. 7, 1930.

Patented `lan. 7, 1930 UNITED STATES PATENT oFF-LCE RICHARD OAKLEY KENNEDY AND LOUIS P. MADSEN, l0F TROY, NEW YORKASSG1\TORS TO CLUETT, PEABODY & C0., INC., OF TROY, NEW YORK, A'CORPORATION -'NE\V YORK FOLD-ovnis COLLAR Applicatio med August e, 1928. Y serial No. 296,983.

This invention relates to an improvement in a fold-over collar and more particularly in the construction and method of making the bands of collars which shall be thin and flexible when starched and ironed.V One object of this invention is to reinforce the band so that it will resist stresses tending to wrinkle and deforrn the band from its erect position and at the same time enable the band to be thinner, more flexible laterally, and lighter than the bands now in general use in this type of collar.

Another object of the invention is to provide a structure defining the bottom edge of the band which is simple and easy to make accurately and which will contribute to the effect of the reinforcement and protect a oneply area of the band from tearing, for example in laundering.

The band of a collar embodying` this invention differs from fold-overcollars of popular use comprising a band and a top or fold-over portion, in which the band, which resists the vertical stresses applied to the top fold of the collar, is made of a plurality of continuous plies of sufcient thickness to provide the necessary strength, in that one of the plies of the band, preferably of two plies only, is out away to form arched areas of lesser thickness, preferably of one ply only at each side, an expedient which increases the flexibility and decreases the weight of the band when the edges of the cut-away area are appropriately edge-finished and related to the remainder of the garment.

The edges of the band blanks and the cutaway ply which define the cut-away areas may be bound edges, and the bound edges stitched or otherwise secured to the remainder of the band, particularly to a bottom edge structure of another ply of the band relied upon to form a stiffening chord for the arched binding, to which it is anchored at each end. The structures are suchas to avoid multiple thicknesses except where they are useful for reinforcement.

The invention will be explained as illustrated by a particular example shown in the drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view;

Fig. 2 is an enlarged transverse section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; and i Fig. 3 is an :enlarged elevation of a section of the band, one portion of the band being raised out of its normal position to show underlying structures.

As disclosed in the drawings, the collar .10 comprises a band 11 and a top 12, the band 11 having the usual front buttonholes 13 and rear buttonhole 14. The band 11 comprisesV an inner ply 15 and an outer ply 16 between the inturned upper edges 17 of which the upper edge of the top 12 may besecured in any usual manner, as by stitching 18. The inner ply 15 has edges delined by a single infold 19, Fig. 3, and is cut away at each 4side of the rear buttonhole 14 to provide arcuate openings at 8, the edges 9 of which are bound by a tape or band of fabric 20, in Figs. 2 and 3. The binding'20 may have an inturned edge at the exposed face of ply 15, and is secured to the ply 15 by stitches 2 1.

The cut-away ply 15 provides-in the openings 8 an exposure of the lower edge and inner fold of the ply 16. In a preferred form the blank for ply 16 -is infolded once at 22, and the raw `edge of theinturn is reinforced throughout its length by a binding 23 stitched to it at 24, the bound inturn being stitched at 25 to the ply 16. The reinforced arcuate edge 9 of the inner ply 15 is secured the band lighter; whereas the taped edgesl which define the arch offer a greater resistance to vertical stresses which' may be applied to the collar than would a collar band made up of two complete plies.

The tape 23 is secured by stitching 26 to.

the body of the ply 10 and is here shown as extending along the entire lower edge of the ply 16, thus preventing any stretching of the lower edge of the band. Moreover it has been found that the use of a tape to cover the raw edge of the ply has the further advantage that it is much quicker and cheaper to apply the tape than to fold the raw edge under as in the old way of making and finishing cutout pieces in collar parts.

We claim:

1. Fold-over collar having a band and a top, the band comprising plies, one of said plies being cut away at arcuate areas widest at the lower edge of said ply for increased lightness and flexibility of the band, the ar-Y cuate edge of the ply at the cut-away portion being reinforced by a binding attached to its material and to the other ply; the other ply having a continuous lower edge reinforced by a binding, and attached to said rst--named ply and its arcuate binding, whereby to provide a tension member across the said arcuate binding of a cut-away area resisting spreading of the arcuate binding under downward stress.

2. Fold-over collar having a top and a substantially erect band of a plurality of plies of fabric, from which the top depends, said band having areas of lesser thickness and greater flexibility, at which the edge of the multiple ply areas is defined by an attached upwardly-curving textile fabric binding, and an attached textile fabric binding extending across and attached to the ends of the upwardly-curving binding, whereby the collar band is characterized by increased flexibility transversely of its surfaces at the thinner areas, and maintained or increased resistance to deformation against stresses in the direction of the extent of the plies.

Signed by us at Troy, New York, this 27 th day of July, 1928.

R. OAKLEY KENNEDY. LOUIS P. MADSEN.

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