US1631985A - Collar and cuff - Google Patents

Description

un 14, 1927- J O. ROBERTS COLLAR AND CUFF Filed Aug. 22. 1924 Patented Jane 14,1927.

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App1ioation`1ed'luguat 88, 19894. Serial No. 735,543; l

My invention relates to the construction of folding collars or cuffs; the objects in view are the provision of means whereby p any degree of stiffness of such articles of wearing apparel (within the practicable or desirable limits) may be imparted to them, together with simple means to enable them to fold easily. and with certainty along a g predeterminedl line of fold, which may be curved or straight; simplification of washing and cleansing operations; the elimination of` ephemeral stiffening material such as starch; by the assemblage as an integral whole, of a plurality of layers of textile a ric and by inclusion in the body of the collar or cuff of a permanently resident elastic colloidal material; reductions in cost of manufacture by the employment of relatively cheap and coarse grades of textile fabrics in those portions ofthe collar or cuff which are not exposed to view, while it is in use, associated with a minimum of relativel costly or fine-textured fabric inthe norma ly visible surfaces of the article; and, in

' general, the production of a collar or cuff,

inherently durable, comfortable, presentable, and easily cleansed after becoming vsoiled by wear. 1

As representative of all such articles of im manufact-ure a folding or turn-over coll-ar is selected for purposes of illustration.

The collar, exemplifying the improvements hereinto be described, belongs to the genus su gested by such United States patents as iltonI No. 216,039, France, No. 425,- 129; Hyatt, No. 419,257, and comprises an adhesively assembled laminated fabric of the genus suggested in the United States patent to Andrews, No. 433,388.

In the drawings hereto annexed, which illustate my invention as applied to the fabrication -of a folding or turn-down collar,

Fig. 1 represen/ts, in plan, a collar, unfolded. f

Fig. 2 a section of a collar, as on 2 2 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 a similar section showing a variant of the collar fabric; Fig. 4 a fragmentary section at thev edge of a blank of collar fabric;

Fig, 5 a section similar to that of Fig.y 4, showing how one of the components of the fabric may be shaved or skived to form a turning edge;

the line Fig. 6 a similar section showing a skived r edge turned fabric; l

Fig. 7 \a fragmentary edge section of a collar, showing the edge ofthe fabric, of full thlcknes's, turned back over andistitched to thebody of the fabric; l

Fig.- 8 a fragmentary section-of collar fabric, illustrating how components of dif-v ferent texture maybe assembled;` A

Fig. 9 a vertical section of a collar, folded as W en worn;

Fig. lQ-a fragmentary section across the fold line of a collar, illustrating the manner in whichvthe inner fabric component, partially cut or severed, may be guarded against .raveling or furring.

The fabric which constitutes the collar, preferably as a whole, as indicated in Fig. 1 is a compound structure, characterized b plies of woven c1oth,adhesively integrate preferably by means of a colloidal cellulose derivative produced by converting a portion of the cellulose fibre of one or more of the plies superficially, and causing the cellulose derivative to join and integrate the lies. If, as is usual, it is considered desirable. to have the external and visible surface of the completed collar present the aspect and-texture of the original fabric, this outer ply at least will be so treated that the external and finally visible parts of theyfabric will not be affected by the reaction by which the colloidal cellulose derivative fis produced.- And, ifl as may be the case, the adhesive (such .as a cellulose ester in a volatile solvent) be prepared otherwise than by conversion of part of the fabric-fibre and be applied to and between the fabric plies, the consistenc and quantitative distribution of the -adhesive should be such that it will not penetrate'so far into a fabric ply as to alter the visual, appearance of its outer surface, provided such alteration is to be avoided. But, should it become desirable in special cases to produce the-,glossy and parchment-like appearance which characterizes fabrics converted partly into, or coated with, colloidal cellulose derivative, either or both of the constituent plies which are united to form the compound fabric may be. treated, or coatedfon both sides.

.The body and stiffness of the compound fabric will vary with the weight and texture of the constituent plies, and to some extent with the specific character and back over l the body of Ithe Cil means of the adhesive. y

amount of the adhesive colloid employed. For the purpose of making a collar fabric inthe manner indicated, two plies of cotton fabric of fairly fine yarn and close weave, will serve practically; for reasons to beset y forth, itis preferred to employ a' netured fabric for the visible or face fply, y and a stouter bodied and coarser cloth for the inner or backply.- v

With economy of time vand labor in the manufacture of the collar in view, it is considered advisable to make the compound fabric out of broad goods, treatingthe plies to form the colloidal cellulose derivative on one side of either or both of the plies, and then assembling them between Irollers under adequate pressure to integrate them by he plies thus united will then be treated in such manner as to fix the coloidal adhesive and to prevent the formation of a greater amount of the cellulose derivative than is desirable.

A number of-reagents, capable f coni verting cellulose libre into colloidal -deriv- `such shape and size as to includedn one atives, are'known and available, as also are solutions in volatile solvents, of such cellulose derivatives. These derivatives differ in details of physical characteristics: some, When permanently fixed, are stiffer and less elastic than others. The choice of reagent and cellulosic product will therefore be determined by the desired physical characteristics of the end-product, as represented by a collar or cuff.

Thus will be roduced a sheet ofA integrated laminated) material,` susceptible l of being handled in the same Way as an uniplement, maintained at a temperature high enough to deteriorate the fibre of the ply C, in part. Such deterioration b heat does not necessarily involve charring of the fibre and need not, therefore, disflgure it. Preferably, and as indicated b the drawings, the local reduction of t e back-ply shouldbe regulated -so that the outer ply and the integrating adhesive between the plies, willbe unaffected. Thus not only the full strength of the outer ply will be conserved, but the supplemental support of the adhesive also.

The groove F, which may extend onl part way through the material of the bac ply C, providesl a line on'which the rela-y tively heavy-bodied collar material will fold easily and smoothly. After the collar blank has thus been grooved, it will be linislied by such manufacturing turnincr and edge stitching, an buttonholing. 'his is of particular importance in connection `wth adhesively-integrated two"- or-more ply fabrics adapted to be laundered in usual ways, as are the collars or the like of this specification. Inevitably the laundry operations involve flattening the collar to the state shown in Figs. l and 2, wetting, and agitation; and refolding on line F these fiexings are peculiarly liable to break'the adhesion between plies if the point of flection is at any part in which thc inner ply` at the fold or crease is of sub stantially greater thickness than the outer ply lat the fold or crease. Separation or blistering between the plies at and near the fold is a detriment to 'the collar, and an tary textile fabric for collar manu actur- ,important utility of the mechanical] -reing purposes, as by cutting blanks either for parts of collars orentire collars.

To make a collar such as is illustrated in Fig. .l a blank is first cut fromlaminated, adhesively integrated material of the character above described, this blank being of piece ,the band portion B, the top or fold over portion T, and Y marginal portions which when turned back upon the body of the collar, form the turned and doubled margins L. Before the .margins of thev blank are turned, the fabric is scored .or otherwise rendered'more flexible, along the line of fold, at F. The inner or back-ply C of the fabric (Fig. 2) is grooved at-F, so that enough of its` material is removed to render the fabric as a whole readily .and neatly flexible along the line of groove.

' This groovingor local linear weakening may be effected in any one ofseveral ways: The blank of laminated fabricl may be passed under a thin emery wheel, which will grind the groove, or under a rotary Vcutter which will cut out the Groove. Or, the ply C ofthe fabric may 2be weakened in itsl fibre by contact with a heatedv grooving imduced thickness of the otherwise uni orm inner ply at the fold is to prevent any a tendency to separation or blistering.

If it is desired to provide a thin edgefinish on the collar, the margins of a blank may be shaved or skived, asl illustrated in .Figs 4, 5 and 6. The fabric-blank, shown at its edge in Fig. 4 lends'itself to manipulation in a manner analogous to leather. A

skiving machine, such as is used in the manufacture of shoes and other ,articles fabricated of leather, may be employed to cut away theback-ply C, (or as much of it as is desired) leaving the face ply C projecting as a thin ledge L around the margins of the collar blank.V This ledge L may then be turned back over the' back-ply C .(see Fi 6) and be secured thereto either by ad esive, or by stitches. inated fabric be three ply, as indicated in Fig. 3, the skived edge'will lap over and be secured tothe third ply C2. There are,

Should the lamhowever, structural advanta es in a relaa thickness at the edges of the collar which lends an appearance of substantiality. I therefore believe it to be preferable to leave the cut margin of the collar blank as it is shown in Fig. 4, and to turn this margin, in its entire thickness, upon the body of the collar, securing it by adhesive, or by stitching, as indicated in Fig. 7.

The total thickness of the collar fabric may be brought to any desired measure by employing coarser and heavier fabric for the back-ply as an alternative to using more than two plies of thinner fabric. In Fi 8 the relationship of a thick back-ply to a thin face ply C is conventionally illustratedx- If the mode of reducing the material along the fold line at F and the structure of the back ply be such that there is fraying or furring of the cut or abraded fibres, these may be laid and secured in place by applying a thin stripe coating of adhesive material F (Fig. l) over the cut or abraded fibres. A cellulose ester in a volatile solvent will serve. this purpose. Or, since the back ply C will not be exposed to view while the collar is in use, the reliminary treatment for the formation o an adhesive cellulose derivative by reaction on part of the fibrous structure may be carried out by immersing the back-ply fabric completely in the reacting liquid, or allowing the reacting liquid to penetrate deeply into the fabric from one side, so that the fibres thereof will be partly parchmentized or converted nearly or wholly throughout in such case, the scoring or abrasion to form the fold line groove F will produce little or no tendency toward fraying or furring of the fibre. l

When it is rendered permanent by appropriate treatment, the colloidal adhesive with which the plies of the laminated fabric are integrated becomes, in effect, an in destructible sizing, which lends a measure of elastic stiffness to the fabric as a Whole. The degree of such stiffness may be increased or diminished by re ation of the consistency and quantity o the colloidal adhesive. And, if a gloss, or clear light-reflecting surl face (such as characterizes a completely starched and ironed collar) be desired, thev face ply may be subjected to the solvent reagent on both sides or deeply penetrated from one side so as to produce as much conversion of the normally visible face ply surface as may be desired.

A collar made in the manner above described, may be cleansed thoroughly by ordinary washing and rinsing, and if laid to dry on some smooth flat surface, will restore itself on drying to its original condition though hot ironing is to .be recommended. The provision of the scored fold line enables the 'collar to fold neatly and sharply in its `designed contour, and thus imposes on the collar the appropriate shape to secure a proper fit on' the Wearers neck.

I use the Word collar in the claims hereto appended, as including'not only a collar to be Worn on the neck, but also such analogous articles as cuffs.

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. A folding collar comprising a blank of laminated textile fabric composed of adhesively integrated plies each including within its area the top and band portions and fold line of the collar, the inner ply of said blank being locally reduced along said fold vline to predetermine the fold of the collar.

2. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated fabric of which the plies are adhesively integrated, textile fabrics of differing characteristics, one of said plies be ing of relatively thick fabric, said-.thicker ly locall reduced to produce a determinate ine of fold to constitute a relatively flexible region capable of bein repeatedly flexed without causing separation of the adhesion between plies.

3. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated fabric lof which the plies are adhesively integrated, and having one of said plies locally reduced through part of its thickness to produce a determinate line of fold, leaving the other plyand the region of adhesive contact unaffected.

4. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated fabric of which Woven textile fabric plies are adhesively integrated by means of a colloidal cellulose derivative, and havin one of said plies locally reduced to provi e-a linear region capable of being repeatedly flexed without-inducing separation of the adhesion between 'plies at or near said linear region.

5. A folding collar, comprisin a blank of laminated textile fabric of w ich plies are conjoined adhesively by a colloidal cellulose derivative, one of said plies being of ,relatively thick fabric, said thicker ply being severed through a art of its thickness and thereby locally re uced to produce a determinate line of fold.

6. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated textile fabric of which the plies are adhesively integrated by means of a colloidal cellulose derivative, and having one of said plies locally`reduced through part f of its thickness to produce a determinate line of fold, leaving the other ply and the region of adhesive contact to be flexed upon folding.

7. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated textile fabric of which plies are adhesively inte ated by means of a colloidal cellulose derivative, one of said plies being of relatively thick fabric, said thicker ply being cut away within its thickness to enable folding at a determinate line of fold, without setting up forces tending to separate the adhesion between plies, and leaving the other ply and the region of adhesive Contact unaffected.

8. A folding collar made up of several plies of textile fabric adhesively united, one of the plies being thicker than another, and having a portion severed therefrom through a part of its thickness at a line of fold, the remaining thickness of the fabric constituting a flexible portion in which the remainder of the thicker ply is not substantially thicker than the thinner ply.

9. A folding collar, comprising a. blank of laminated textile fabric of which the plies are adhesively integrated, and having one of saidl plies locally reduced to produce a determinate line lof fold, and having the fibres of said ply in the region of local reduction adhesively secured together.

10. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated textile fabric of which the plies are adhesively integrated, one of said plies being of relatively ply being locally cut away Within its thickness to enable folding on a determinate line thick fabric, said thicker l of fold and having the fibres in the region of local reduction adhesively secured together.

11. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated textile fabric of which the plies are adhesively integrated, and having one of said plies locally reduced by removal of a portion of its substance through part of its thickness only to produce a Adeterminate line of fold, leaving the other ply and the region of adhesive contact unaffected and having the libres in the region of local reduction adhesively secured together.

12. A folding collar, comprising a blank of laminated fabric of which the plies are adhesively integrated, one of said plies being -of relatively thick fabric, said thicker ply locally reduced through part of its thickness to produce a determinate line of fold, leaving the other ply and the region of adhesive contact unaffected and having the fibres in the region of local reduction adhesively secured together. a

Signed by me at Boston, Massachusetts, this twentieth day of August, 1924.

ODIN ROBERTS.

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