US1607131A - Special box-plait attachment - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 16, 1926.

- B. M. KRELL ET AL SPECIAL BOX PLAIT ATTACHMENT Filed April 9 1925 M .w M u a for-min Patented Nov. 16, 19 26.

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BERNARD MfKRELL, orfnnw some, nn MEYER enonrann MICHAEL ZUGKER-, i MAN, or BROOKLYN. new YORK.

. 'srEorAx. BOX-PLAI'I ATTACHMENT Application filed April 9,

This invention relates to improvementsin attachments for sewing the front seams. in

mens shirts. and also relates to a new con- -l 'itruction of the front seam itself.-

. T he object of the invention is to provide anew form of front seam for mens, shirt whereby less bulky front seam is obtained and vwhich resultsin very substantial savings of material. p

Another object of theinvention is to pro- 'vide a practical attachment'for making the iniprovedshirt front seam, said attachment being an apted to be attached to a sewing ma-. chine. i I

. lVitli these objects in view the invention is embodied in a new shirt front seam and attachmenttherefor arranged and constructed as hereinafter set forth and as illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is a view in cross section of ashirt front Seaineinbodying the invention.

Figure 2 is a'plan View of the attachment awav.

Figure 3 is a side view of'the attachment. l igure 1 is a longitiiidinal sectional view the attachment. Figure 5 is a transverse sectional view taken on line 55 of Figure 4.

l' igure 6 is an end view of the attachment looking in the direction of arrow 6 in Fig iii-e3. Figure? is a bottom detail view 'of the lower forming members. Figure 8 is a bottom detail view of the upper forming member.

The shirt front seam to which this invention relates is that part of a mans shirt in which the button holes are made. Both for this reason andfor the sake of appearance, the front seam is made ofsuitable width and. of a 'louble thickness of materialreiir' forced by a strip of lining. The, shirt front seam is usually one and one quarter inches wide. If a double thickness of material is used, it takes twice as much in addition to the folds for properly forming theseains.

Heretofore ithas been. the custom to fornr the shirt front by sewing a strip of shirt material in front of the edge portion of the left part of the shirt in front. This invention provides a construction in which the seam portion is formed in front, and a separate strip is sewn on the back with a suitable lining interposed. In this again parallel toitself at 15.

g the seam, parts being broken 1925. Serial 1%)21370.

manner material. is saved to the extent of the width of the front seam andthe necessary folded portions and the back stripmay be madeof cheaper grade of strip material so that it is not necessary to out shirt .n1a-

terial into strips which is both expensive and wasteful...

' Referring now tothe drawing Figure 1 illustrates in cross section the front seam or front portion of the left side of a inans shirt. 1'11 thedranvi'ngv the'numeral 10 denotes the front or'outside and 11 is the back or inside which lies against the body. The

' numeral 12 denotes the left front shirt portion which covers the left. side of thebocly and extendsto the edge 18. V

I Said shirt body portion 12 is adjacent the edge bent back upon itself at 1 1, thence bent I p The material then for'msthe button hole portion 16 and at the edge 13 'theniaterial'is again bent upon itself.

Thus at 1%15 there is formed a double fold with three thicknesses of material and at 1.3,there is formed a single fold with .two thicknesses of material. 7 r

A lining 7 is laid within the foldsagainst the portion 16. Back of the latterisplaced an inside or back stripv 18 being folded at both edges 19 and 20 'and the parts are sewn together by the two seams 21, 21. l I

The result is a shirt front seam havingthesam'e appearance as those now in use. But only one thickness of shirt fabric is used thus resulting in a material saving.

The attachment provided. for auto'matically folding the materials as aforesaid coniprises a lowerv folding member 22and an upper folding member 23; The lower fold ingL-member is preferably formed offtw o members 2 1 and 25, which are soldered or otherwise joined to form a ider bottom channel 26 and narrow side channels 27, 27. The lower folding member has a wide. entrance or mouth '28 and :is tapered forward to a'flat spout 29 The sidech'a'nnels are tapered from" the entrance towards the mouth, being firstrounded as at 30 in Fig ure' 5 and thentapering into narrow fiat channels asat 31 in Figure 6. p The bottom'channelQG extendsto both sides under the side channels 27 and tapers also horizontally as seen in Figure 4.

It will be understood that when astrip. of material as the aforesaid back strip 18 is introduced or fed into the lower folding 'nel der the top ll.

"and double folded in the material is member through the entrance 28 it will be shaped gradually from the shape shown in a heavy black line in Figure to pass out from the spout 29 with the folds 19 and folded sharply flat against the portion 18 as in Figure 1. r

The upper channel member 2 1- in the lower forming member 22 preferably extends beyond the spent 29 as shown to form a sharp guide tongue 32.

The upper folding member 23 has cha "el a lower lining channel i l and an brie channel 35. The lining chan- 1S relatively long and tapered from the entrance 36 to the flat spout at 3 7.

The fabric channel is relatively short and has a f'laring mouth or entrance 38.

, The lining channel is formed between the bottom 59 and middle member 4:0. The ric channel is formed between the member l0 and top l1. The latter has a window The middle member lO extends beyond the spout at 3''! to form a flaring guide tongue is. r V 7 As shown in Figure 5, to the one side the top l1 is wrapped around the middle memher and joined to the bottom to form a side channel le.- which extends in under the lining channel 34. The other side of the top is also wrapped or bent around the top as at 45 but is not joined to the bottom 39. i

To the bottom 39 is joined a shelf Q6, and the edge ofthe shelf and the edge of the top at l5 overlap forming a'double side channel 4-7. Thus it will be seen that when the shirt 'material is introduced in the upper forming member as indicated by a heavy black line in Figure 5,'the material will be formed with the edge fold at 13 in side channel l l, then lie on top of the middle member andun- And onthe other side the material will be foldedwithin the portion double channel 17 and the rest of the fabric will lie on the shelf 46. The lining which is a fiat unfolded strip will be fed forward in' the channel 3%. The lining is notshown in Figure 5.

The window 42 is for the purpose of observing the fabric during its passage through the attachment, but it rmay be omitted as in Figure 6.

The three'elements in the shirt front seam are fed forward into theattachment at the same time; The back strip 18 is fed in through the mouth 28, the lining is fed in through the mouth 36 and the front shirt fed 1n through the mouth 38. As seen in the drawing, the folding mem- .ments emerge at the spouts in proper 'tlOD to each other, the hm'ng bers are in vertical superposed relation and converge in angular relation, the spouts 29 and 37 almost touching.

relabemg contained within the folds 13 and 15 and all the folds being very flat and sharp.

In this condition and position they are fed in under the sewing mechanism of a sewing machine indicated by the needles 5() in Figure 2, and as usual in this art, the sewing machine mechanism which includes a feed, draws the elementstherethrough and they are sewed together.

For purposes of support and adjustment the lower folding member has a stem 51 adjustably secured '53. The upper folding member has a bracket 5% adjustably secured by screws 55 to a stem'56, which in turn is adjustably secured to the base 52 by screws 57. Thus lateral adjustment in two directions is as-.

sured. The base issuitably secured to the sewing machine table on top, not shown.

7 The several parts of the attachment are suitably joined by soldering, preferably, and accomplish the object of the invention in automatically folding the fabric to form the improved shirt front seam.

We claim An attachment of the character described comprising a lower folding element and an upper folding element, said lower folding element being adapted to fold the edges of a strip of fabric upon itself and comprising an upper member and alower member joined to form a central flat channel and two rounded edge channels thereabove, the upper folding element being adapted to fold one edge of another piece of fabric back upon itself and for double folding an interme diate portion of said other piece of fabric as and for the purpose described, said upper folding. element being bent to form a flat fabric channel merging into lower side channels at the edges thereof, a double folding channel formed in continuation of and below one of the said lower side channels, a member extending between said lower side channels to form a space for a piece of lining material'below the flat fabric channel, all of the channels formed in the upper folding element being in substantial parallel relation, and means for supporting the said two folding elements with their AXGSCO11- verging and in the same vertical plane.

BERNARD NLKRELL. MEYER'BRODY. MICHAEL ZUCKERMAN.

The three said ole-- to a base 52 by screws ill) llU

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