US1586163A - Variable-width presser-foot mechanism - Google Patents

Description

May 25 1926. 1,586,163

A y R. M. sHARAF VARIABLE WIDTH PRE'JSSERV FOOTA MECHANISM Original Filed April 19, 1916 4 Sheets-Sheet l WTNESSES INVENTO? m j 1 manners May 25 1926.

original Filed April 19, 191e 4 sheets-sheet 2 WITNESSES May z5, 1926.j

R. M`. SHA`RAF VARIABLE WIDTH PRESSER FOOT MECHANISM Original Filed April 19, -1916 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 INI/Emol:

wimfssfs l ATTORNEYS May 25', 1-926. 1,586,163

R. M. sHARAF VARIABLE WIDTH PRESSER FOOT MECHANISM Original Filed April 19, 1916 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented May Z5, 1926.

UNITED srA'rEs PATENT OFFICE.

RALIH M. SHARAF, OF NEVI YORK, N. Y., ASSIGNOR TO R. M. SI-IARAF MACHINE GO., OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, CORLORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

VARIABLE-WIDTH PRESSER-FOOT IxIECI-IANISM.

Application filed April 19, 1916, Serial No. 92,141. Renewed February 27, 1922. Serial No. 539,772

This invention relates to sewing machines adapted especially for shop and factory practice, and has particular reference to machines of the two needle type employed for sewing lace, insertion, braid, or the like upon cloth by a single operation.

Among the objects ofthe present inven-A tion is to provide for a two needle sewing machine, a presser foot adjustable laterally along with the varying of the Vspace between the needles to accommodate lace of varying widths.

Another object of the invention is to provide an adjustable presser foot having lace feeding devices associated therewith, the feeding devices as well as the presser foot being of variable width in accordance with the width of the lace being sewed. By the term lace as used herein, I mean to cover any analogous trimming material.

A still further object of the invention is to provide presser foot mechanism for lace sewing machines including two relatively laterally movable main parts, lace feeding means adjustable therewith to accommodate varying widths of'lace, and cutting devices for trimming out the cloth beneath the lace and closely adjacent the two lines of stitches.

lVith the foregoing and other objects in view the invention consists in the arrangement and combination of parts hereinafter described and claimed, and while the invention is not restricted to the exact details of construction disclosed or suggested herein, still for tbc purpose of illustrating a practical embodiment thereof reference is had to the accompanying drawings, in which like 3 *3 of Figure 1;

Figure L'lis a view similar to Figure l, but indicating other features of construction;

Figure 5 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Figure 4e, the throat plates being in vertical ction on the line tis-e5 of Figure jl;

'Figure (i is a vertical sectional detail on 'the line 5--6 of Figure 5;

Figure 8 is a vertical section on the line o 8-8 of Figure 5; Y

Figure 9 is a view of the same with the parts in different position;

Figure 10 is a front elevation of the lac feeding bar and attachments; v

Figure 11 is a sectional view looking downwardly from the inclined plane indicated by the line 11-11 of Figure 4:;

Figure 12 is a fragmentary transverse section approximately on the'line 12-12 of Figure 4;

Figure 13 is a vertical transverse section on approximately the pla-ne of the needles and showing the needle bar and needle controlling devices in elevation; and

Figure 14 is a partial plan view and partial horizontal section indicating the means for adjusting the needle holders laterally in accordance with the lateral adjustment of the presser foot, and lace feeding and cloth cutting devices.

Referring now more particularly to Figuresl to 3, I show a presser foot 15 compriing right and left halves or parts 15a and 15b movable laterally toward and from eachother and both movable relatively tothe presser foot bar 16 carried in any well known manner by the sewing machine head.

The bottom of the presser foot is provided with a transverse slot 17 in the remote ends of which the needles 18 and 19 are adapted to reciprocate with the needle bar 2O of any suitable type, but preferably of the type shown in detail and claimed in my copending application for variable width two needle sewing machines, tiled of even date herewith, Serial No. 92,140 (patented August 5, 1924-, #1,503,921). rl`he two parts of the presser foot are substantially duplicates, except that one is right. and .the other yis left and hence the slot. 17 is formed in both parts as shown in Figures 2 and 3. The effective length of the slot, according to the lateral adjustment of the presser foot parts, corresponds with the width of the lace being used so that the ed O*es or sclvage of the lace will be enga red bythe needles.

l ln Figures l 'and v show ayertical reciprocating lace feeding bar Q1 having' lat erally adjustable right and left parte' sie and 21, each. part carrying a series ef gers 22 `at its lower end acting downwardly and rearwardly along a lace feeding table 23 inclined toward the points of the needles at an inclination of about forty-tive degrees.

rlhe bar 21 is adapted t'o be recip'rocated 1n' approaching the lower edge of the table, or

close to the lace slot 17. The lingers are held forwardly and dow wardly toward or against the table by means of leaf springs 27. The wings 26 being substantially stationary except as they more coincidentally with the slight movement of the presser loot, and the slots being vertical, the lower portion oiE the lace bar is maintained substantially in a vertical plane during its reciprocations. .Vhen the bar 21, however, is 'forced downwardly the pointsor feeding ends of the lingers 22 move the lace downwardly and rearwardly along the lace table. As shown in Figure 11, a tongue 2 8 is arranged centrally of the presser foot and spans the space between the two sections 15a and 15b thereof during the adjustmentl thereof apart. The upper end of thistongue is mounted upon a pair of aligned pins 29 around which are placed a pair of light springs 30 whose function it is to hold the tongue/,2S central with respect to the foot when the parts ot the foot are separated. ylQhe lace is fed alongl the upper and rear surliace of this tongue 28 and beneath another tongue 31 hung at its upper end upon a pin 32 having its ends projecting into saring sockets 33 spaced rearwardly from the pins 29. At 34 I show a pair .of keepers extending downwardly along the edges of the tongue 31 and each having a linger co-operating with the edge ot the lace close to one ol the needles'maintaining the lace in the position to which it is fed by the operation of the machine and the lace feeding ngers 22. rEhese keepers 84 and their lingers 35 are carried substantially by the side parts of the presser foot and hence always maintain substantially the same relation to the needles.

Referring now again to Figures 1 and 3, I show a pair of plungersv 36 adapted to reciprocate in vertical planes parallel to the line ot' feed along inclined guideways 37 at the side portions of the lace table, said guideways terminating at the bottom of .the presser 'toot closely in front of theplaneo the needles. ln the use of this machine the Adownwa rd throw'.

cloth between the two rows o' stitches formed by the two needles is cut out by two pairs of cutting devices just ahead ot the stitching mechanism, and the points ot the plunger's act between the spaces where the cloth'is cut and the plane ot the needles. 'llhe round dull points 36 ot the plunger-s are deflected inwardly and operate on their down stroke, just before the points ot the needles reach the limit ot their down stroke, tc hold the raw edges of the cloth turned downwardly in position to be turned beneath the salvage of the' lace by the action oi the thread as explained in detail in my Patent #1,503,921. As shown in the tirst three igures, the plungers are caused to reciprocate by mea-ns controlled directly from the nee-ille bar. To this end l provide a rocker 3S journaled on a transverse axis 39, the ends ot which are mounted in bearings or brackets 40 carried laterally with the lateral adjustment of the two parts of the presser foot. The shaft 39 is telescopic at both ends so as to permit the rocker to remain central or in the vertical plane of the lnedi an line of the work. The rocker' includes upwardly and downwardly projecting arms 41 and 42 respectively, adapted to be engaged in alternation by the thimble 43 o't the needle holders. 1n the position shown in Figure 1, the needle bar may be regarded as descending and approaching its downward limit ot movement, and immediately thereal'ter the thimble 43 or any analogous portion of the needle bar structure will engage the arm 42 extending somewhat beneath the thimble and thereby the rocker will be given a quick oscillation rearwardly at its lower part. In other words, by the time the points el the needlesreach the cloth, the rocher will have been oscillated causing the points 3G ot the plungers to be given their extreme The connections between the rocker and the plungers are shown as comprising a pair of sleeves 44, in each or which is a pin 45 adapted to project into the eye 46 or' a draw bar 47 movable rearwardly in a horizontal plane due to the rearward oscillation of the rocker. T he front end ot each draw bar is deflected laterally and projected through an inclined slot hl formed in the upper end ot the corresponding plunger' 36. The plunger is held normally in its upper position by means of a light spring 49, and at this time the zur gular end ot the draw bar occupies the lower end of the slot 48. 'Vhen, however, the draw bar 47 is drawn rearwardly by the oscillation oli the rocker just described, since the draw bar is held in a horizontal plane b v the foot structure, the angular end thereol serves to draw the plunger downwardly along its inclined guideway. rfhe pin 45 is held down in active position by a spring 50 housed within the sleeve 44, the spring bearing against the angular upper end of the pin. ll' it is desired, however, to throw either or both of the pins out ot connection with their draw barst this may be effected by lifting up upon the angular upper end ot' each pin, drawing' vthe seine uiwardly against the spring 50, and then throwing the same laterally to lock in the bayonet slots 5l (see Figure 2). llfhen the needle bar moves upwardly, the thiinblethereol is adapted to wipe against the upper arm ll causing,l the rocker to oscillate in the other direction duringl the upper portion ot such niovement ot the needle bar, settingv the plungers lree to be lillteil by the springs 4:9. 'lhe middle portions ol' the sleeves 4d are provided with rigid inwardly projecting aligned pin members telescoping with the barrel 53 connected to the lower arm 42. Either or both of the parts 39 and 53 may contain springs to hold the parts in proper relative positionsl upon lateral adjustment oli the device. By the foregoing it will be seen that l have provided a means for actua-tingI the cloth. folding guides or plungers downwardly and rearwardly, once ior each downward reciprocation of the needles and just in advance of the needles. As shown in Figure 8, the pins operate in horizontal parallel slots 54 formed in the plates 5ft along the upper edges of the bottom portions of the presser loot just in the rear ol the side wings 26. By this means also the pins and sleeves are steadied with respect to lateral vibrations.

ln Figures 6 and '.7 l show a slight varia tion in the cloth folding means. ln this lorm of the device the plungers 36a are relatively stationary when in operation, their points 35 projecting normally below the ends of the guidcways 37. Each plunger 36a is pivotally connected at its upper end to a link 55 whose opposite end has a pivot pin 56 extending into a slot G6 of a latch 57. This latch is pivoted about its center upon a pivot 58 carried by a dropV lest 59 hinged at ll() near the bottoni ot the liront portion of the presser foot. ne pivot 555Y projects through a longitudinal slot 6l at the middle ol the latch, and just above thisv slot and pivot is a lug G2. llVhen the drop lealI 59 is closed llush with the front tace ol the presser toot, shown in Figure 6, the upper end ol the latch carrying a piu G8 projects into a socket 6K1- in the structure of the loot and si tantially perpendicular to the drop leali audlink 55 lying;` against the upper tace of the drop leal at this time. A keeper is slidable then downwardly to engage at its lower end beneath the lug' G2 thereby locirinp; the drop leal' lirxnly in closed position, and the link causes the plunger point at this time to project into operative position. As shown in Figure 7, when the keeper 65 is eleor withdrawn :from the hitch lug- 62, J@he operator by pulling` directly downwardly upon the latch ina-y swing the drop leaf to its open position and by swinging the latch at its lower end rearwardly around the pivot 58, the plunger and link will be ormvn upward.

ll will now describe the preferred cutting inechanisni, having reference to Figures El, (l and 5, and also particularly to Figures S and 9. At (S7 l show a cutting blade oi? This blade is provided at its lower rear end with a downwardly projecting lead (57, the point` of which is intended as a guide rather than as a cutter. .lust above and in liront oil the lead is provided a cutting` edge V9, the line ot which forms a cornparatiifely sharp acute angle with the upedge oi"- the blade. Qhis cutting edge') operates with a shearing elliec't with a stationary blade .70 httcd removably into a throat plate ll (see Figure 5).

Adjacent to its upper end the blade is liori'ned with an open ended slot 72 substantially perpendicular to the longer axis-0f the blade and into which projects a vpin 73 carried by. a bell crank K/l pivoted at 75 on or within either heli"4 oi the presser toot. lhe upper rear end or the bell crank 74 liiiurcated and intersects the slot 25 oll the wing` 26 for cio-operating` with the lug carried by the positively .actuated lace 'feeding bar 2l. ill/*hilo the bar 2l is being elevated, the bell crank 7l is `-(given a clockwise rotation (see Figure causing the pin Tl to swing along an arc shaped slot 76, and hrough the connection at the slot 72 with the blade Si', the blade is driven' downwardlv and rearwardly, causing the cutting edge G9 th reet to shear across the active edge fiile-il blade 'l0 with a powerful and aive cut.

'lhcre is an intimate relationship between the yplunger mechanism and the cutting mechanism with respect to the latch 5?. The extreme upper corner ot the blade G7 is cut away, and a notch F is extended down- (l vsfdly therefrom parallel to the slot 72. lhe pin 53 carried by the upper end ot the latch is normally located in such position :is to lie within the cnt a vay corner portion oi" the blade, but away trein the notch 77 (see Fig. 'lherel'ore while the latch is in locking position the blade is treed iron'i the pin G33 for its reciprocations through the bell cranl7 and pin 73, the plunger being held stationary by the latch and link connections. lllhen, however, the latch is actuated to drop the drop leal 5) to throw the plunger and lznite out of gear, the movement ol the latch is longitudinal only 1eruiitted by the slots 6l and 56 along the pivots 58 and. '5S respectively. This movement of the latch brings the pin 63 into the notch T7 whereby when the latch is then drawn downwardly and swung around the pivot 58, the blade will be drawn positively downwardly to release it from the pin 73 and then drawn upwardly to bring the lead or point 57 thereot above the plane oi' the bottom et the presser toot (see Figure il). in this position the device is adapted tor the sewing on ot' lace without cutting out the cloth, and with the blade dropped forwardly and downwardly, as shown, even though the bell crank may continue its oscillations, the pin T3 moves idly in the slot 76. lin the preferred itorm ot the mechanism where. the folding plungers are reciprocated in harmony with the reciprocations ot the needle bar, it will be noted that when the needles are up and the feeding mechanism is operative, the plungers like vise will be elevated, as shown in full lines in Figure l, so that while the cloth is moving under the operation ot the 'feeding devices there practically no obstruction, tending to retard or resist lateral curving` ot' the work conteinjilated in the. practice ot this entire machine.

l will now describe the means l provide Ytor adjusting the presser foot to width, according to the width ot the lace. "he presser toot bar includes or is provided with a. downward projection 78 (SeeFigure l2) tapped transversely with screw threads having, t`or example, thirty-two threads per inch co-operating with a screw 79 journaled in and held trom endwise movement with respect to the toot part 15a. To the outer rnd o'lz the screw is connected a pinion SO 'tor controlling the rotation of the screw. It, tor instance, this screw be rotated eight times, the part l5 will be moved laterally :urcrdingly one-quarter ot an inch with rcspect to the center or median line ot the work. Another screw 81 is tix/ed rigidly in the other part 15' ot the presser toot, and has' internal threaded engagement with the first mentioned screw 79, but the threads of the screw el are made of twice the pitch oit' the l'irst, or sixteen threads per inch. It will he understood, however, that these pitches are but illustrations, and might be .Qreater or less so long` as the ratio or' two to one is observed between the two parts ot the ditt'erential pitch screw device. Since the latter screw 8l is non-rotaryhe rotation ot the screw 79 and movement in one direction through a quarter ot an inch with a corresponding unscrcwing trom the stationary screw Sl, will cause the lett hand part ot the 'toot to move in the opposite direction to the same extent. One or more other screws 8l are lifted to the 'toot part 15b and are provided with similar threaded engagement with other rotary members 79 journaled in the part 15a. Each of these rotary shafts 79 is provided with a pinion 80 similar to the lirst one described. A master gear 82 is journaled so as to mesh with all ot the pinions 8O and cause simultaneous rotation or' all ot' them and the menibcrs 79 and 79, whereby all parts ot the :toot are moved laterally bodily without wedging or cramping. A scale 83 is connected on the 'trent portion ot the toot to guide the operator in making the adjustment.

In Figures 13 and l-l. l show my improved needle controlling device comprising a stationary bracket Sil connected by ears or lugs 85 to any stationary part ot the head. A. diterential screw 79 and 8l ot the same character as l described in connection with the presser toot, is connected to the bracket Si. The end ot the screw carrying the pinion 8O is journaled in a laterally adjustable bracket extension 8G having a socket 8T lor a needle chuck S8, to which the needle ,is connected ior vertical rcciprocations. The nonrotary screw 81a carried by another laterally adjustable extension S9. rl`he dil'i'erential screw just described is actuated preterably by the sanie master wheel and at the same time that the adjustment ot the presser vtoot ctiiccted and to the same extent. 'lhe 'troni Ytace ol the bracket mechanism may be provided with a s 'ale 90 to guide the operator in making the adjustment, either independently of or in connection with the scale 83 on the presser toot.

The lower end ot the needle bar 2O which reciprocates through the center oit the bracket Sift carries a pair ot needle holders Ol and 92 in which the needle Chucks 38 are held during the operation oi the needles with the needle bar. rllhese holders 91 and 92 are adapted to be clamped as by means ot a binding screw 923 rt the center to hold them in fixed position with respect to the needle bar. Then the bracket device Si is to be adjusted laterally or elongated, the screw 925 will be loosened and then the upper ends ol'v the chucks which project into the bracket extensions 86 and 89 will be carried apart bodily, providing the same adjustment laterally tor the needles as is given to the presser toot and other devices described, so that the needles will reciprocate along the same vertical lines with respect te the presser toot. Bit each side ot the device l provide a linger piece 94 in the nature ot' a bell crank, which when swung downwardly by the operator, will cause a dog to swing inwardly to catch and hold the chuck in the bracket extension and release it from the needle holder 91 or 92. This operation as described in the previously mentioned application may be performed easily and safely while the machine is in regular operation. It it is desired to stop either or both needles while the machine is in operation, to start the needle or needles that may be stopped, the operator will simtill ply throw the finger piece 94 back to the original position and the needle chuck will then be carried downwardly as usual by the needle holder' and needle bar.

I claim:

l. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot, a pair of needles co-operating therewith, and cloth cutting means adjacent to each needle, of laterally spaced cloth folding devices co-operating with the presser foot between the needles and the cutting devices.

2. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot, a pair of reciprocating needles co-operating therewith, and cloth cutting devices acting in front of the needles, of a pair of cloth folding plungers movable downwardly into cooperation with the raw edges of the cloth while the needles are making their down stroke.

3. In a lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot, a pair of needles co-operating therewith, means to reciprocate the needles, laterally spaced cutting devices slitting the cloth ahead of the needles, a pair of plungers co-operating with the raw edges of the cloth to fold the same, and means to reciprocate the plungers from the needle operating means in harmonywith the reciprocations of the needles. Y Y

4. The combination with a presser foot, a needle co-operating therewith, lace feeding means acting downwardly through the front portion of the foot, and slitting devices acting on the cloth in front of the lace, of a plunger guided for reciprocating movement adjacent to the front part of the foot, and

means to reciprocate the plunger coincidentally with the needle mechanism, the plunger serving to fold the cloth beneath the selvage of the lace and acting just ahead of the down stroke of the needle point.

5. In a lace sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot, a needle bar and needle reciprocating with respect thereto, and cloth cutting` means acting in front of the needle, of a cloth foldingplunger recip- ,rocating along an inclined guideway at the front part of the presser foot toward and from the axis of the needle, a draw bar connected to the plunger, and means actuated by the needle bar to cause the reciprocating of the draw bar in a horizontal plane to cause the downward movement of the plunger when the needle bar moves downwardly.

G. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot, a needle bar, a pair of needles carried by the needle bar, means to feed laces beneath the needles, cutting devices to trim the cloth between the lines of action of the needles, anda pair of raw edge folding members acting to hold the rawedges of the cloth downward with-respect to the needles, and a member actuated by the needle bar on its down stroke to cause folding member.

8..,In a lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot, a cutting member and a cloth folding member reciprocating parallel to each other in the front portion ofthe foot along diagonal lines with respect* to the axis of the needle, and means to reciprocate the cutting member and the folding member one after the other.

9. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot, means to feed lace downwardly and rearwardly alongv the front portion thereof, a pair of needles, means to reciprocate the needles through the lace and cloth at the middle portion of the foot, a cutting member and a cloth folding member acting in succession upon the cloth adjacent the line of action of each needle, means to operate the cloth cutting members, and means actuated bythe needle mechanism to actuate the clothfolding members simultaneously, forcing them downwardly while the needles are making their down stroke, and holding the folding members down until the needles start upon their up stroke.

lO. The combination with a presser foot, a needle bar, and a needle carried thereby reciprocating with respect to the presser foot, of a cloth cutting device movable downwardly and rearwardly toward the axis of the needle, a folding member acting upon the cloth, and member actuated by the needle bar on its down strokev to cause a corresponding actuation of the member acting upon the cloth.

11. A sewing machine having a plurality of needles adapted to have their distance from` each other varied, a separate clothv cutting device for each needle, and means whereby the lateral adjustment of a needle will produce a simultaneous lateral adjustment of its cloth-cutting device.

l2. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination of'a presser foot having guideways formed in its front portion, a plurality of members movable in said guideways to act upon the cloth, a rocker journaled upon the presser foot, a reciprocating needle bar, a portion of the rocker being in position to be actuated by the needle bar during its reciprocations, and connections between said cloth actuating n'iembers and fil the rocker kwhereby the oscillation of the tary means acting simultaneously upon both rocker will cause simultaneous movementr of the members acting upon the cloth.

13. The combination with a presser foot having a downwardly and rearwardly inclined guideway in its front portion, a needle bar, and a needle reciprocating -vertically with respect to the foot, of al lmember acting upon the cloth in front of the lneedle and mounted for movement in said guideway,\a forwardly and rearwardly reciprocating draw bar having its front endconnected to the member acting on the cloth, a rocker journaled on artransverse axis -uponthe presser foot in positionto be actuated by tire needle bar, and connections between the rocker and said draw bar to cause the movement ofthe member acting von vthe cloth according to the vmovement of the needle bar.

14. A sewing machine having a plurality of needles adapted to have their distance from `each other varied, a presser foot having a separate section for each vneedle,said sections being 'relatively adjustable laterally, a separate cloth-cutter carried by each of said sections, and means whereby the lateral adjustment of a presser foot section will produce a simultaneouslylateral adjustment of the corresponding needle and cloth-cutter.

15. 1n a two needle sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot divided centrally, the division line being longitudinal of the direction of feed,a pair 4of' needles respectively connected to the two parts of said presser foot, and means to reciprocate the needles in coopera-tion withv thek presser foot, of means to feed lace along the presser foot beneath the needles, and means to adjust thetwo parts of the presser foot and the needles laterally toward and from each other, and vequally relatively to thelongitudinal central ldivision line Aof said presser foot.

1G. l'n a two vneedle lace sewingmachine, the combination with a pair of needlesand meansto reciprocate the same,*of a presser foot co-operating with the needles and-divided along a vertical plane coinciding-with the median line of the worln'means to feed lace along vthe front portion of the presser foot lbeneath the needles, the lace feeding means beingv also divided in the same plane as the presser foot, and means to widen the presser foot' and 'the'lace feeding means sin'mltaneously to accommodate wid'erlace.

1T. ln a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination with 'a pair-of needles vand means to reciprocate `the same, of a'presser foot divided along a central verticaly plane coincidingl with the median line ofthe work, means to lfeed 'lace along the front part'of the presser foot beneath the needles, said lace feeding means also being divided along' the same plane as the presser foot, yand rothe presser foot and the lace feeding means to cause the widening of the samesiniultaneously and to the same extent to accommodate wider lace.

18. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination with a pair of needles and means to reciprocate the same in a vertical transverse plane, of a presser foot divided in a vertical plane perpendicular to the plane of the needles, said presser foot being formed with a transverse slot coincident with the plane of the needles and along the endsof which the needles are adapted to reciprocate, means to feed lace downwardly through said slot beneath the needles so that the edges of the lace are engaged by the needles, and means to widen the presser foot -to elongate the slot, to widen the lace vfeeding means, and to adjust the needles farther apartto correspond to the widening of the presser `foot and lace feeding means.

19,' Ina two needle lace sewing machine, the combination with a pair of needles and means to reciprocate the same in a vertical transverse plane, of-a presser foot having a transverse slot coinciding with said plane,

'means to feed lace through the slot beneath the needles, the edges of the lace moving` along the ends of the slot and engageablc by the needles, means to adjust the lace feeding means to accommodate wider lace, means to increase 'the effective length Iof the slot accordingly, and means to widen the space between the needles so that the points of the needles always pass tlnough the edges of the lace irrespective of the width thereof.

'20. In a two needle lace-sewing machine, the combination-of a presser foot having a transverserslot, means to feed lace downwardly through the slot with the edges theren of passing along the ends of the slot, a pair of needles, means to reciprocate the needles causing the points thereof to pass through the edges of the lace close to the ends of the slot, and `means to' increase the effective length of Ethe fslotto accommodate wider lace.

21.1111 aflace sewing machine, the combination of apresser foot comprising two rela ti-vely laterally movableparts, means to feed lace along the front part of the presser foot, said lace feeding means including a pair of tongues spanning the gap between 'the parts of vthe presser foot, and between which tongues the lace is caused to move', means to hold the lace inthe position to which it is fed, and stitch forming means co-operating with thelace at ther bottom of the presser foot.

In a lace'sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot comprising two laterally movable parts, means to adjust said partstoward and from eachother according tothe-width of the'lace, a tongue connected to the front part of the presser foot and e:\:-

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tending rearwardly and spanning the gap between the two parts of the foot, and over which tongue the lace is fed, a vertically reciprocating lace feed bar acting above the lower portion of the tongue, a series of lace engaging lingers moved downwardly and rearwardly by operation of said vertically reciprocating feed bar, means acting upon the lace to hold it in position to which it is fed, and stitch forming mechanism acting upon the lace at the bottom of the presser foot.

23. ln a lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot comprising two parts movable laterally toward and from each other, the foot being provided with a transverse slot extending into both parts, the length of the slot increasing with the movement of the parts of the foot away from each other, means to feed lace through said slot, the lace feeding means comprising relatively movable parts to accommodate different widths of lace, a pair of needles, means to reciprocate the needles through the ends of the slot and edges of the lace, and means to adjust the needles apart and simultaneousl widen the resser foot and lace feedinCf .Y e,

devices, said adjusting means including a series of compound screws, a series of pin- .ions connected to the ends of the screws, and a master gear meshing with all of said pinions.

fl. ln a sewing machine, a presser foot having a guide-way, and a cloth-cutter ar ranged to reciprocate in a vertical plane along said guideway, the cutting edge of said cutter and the direction of movement thereof, being diagonal to the direction of feed of the cloth.

25. ln a lace sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot, a reciprocating needle bar and needle cooperating therewith, and cloth cutting means acting in front of the needle, of a folding device movable in a vertical plane for folding the raw edge of the elo-th and acting thereon between the cutting means and the needle, and means to actuate the folding device simultaneously with the needle far.

26. lr a lace sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot, a needle bar, and a needle cri-operating therewith, of cloth cutting` device acting to slit the cloth in' front of the needle, lace feeding means disposed above the bed plate of the machine and directed toward the needle, means directly connecting said lace feeding means and the cutting device to aetuate the lace feeding means and the cutting device one 'from the other, and a. folder for the raw edge of the cloth between the cutting device and the point of application of the lace to the cloth.

2T. In a lace sewing mael'iine, the coinbination with a presser foot, a needle bar co-operating therewith, and a needle carried by the needle bar, of a lace feeding bar disposed above the bed plate of theI machine, and reciprocating along the front part of the presser foot toward the needle, a reciprocating cloth cutting blade in front of the needle and point of application of the lace to the cloth, means directly connecting said lace 'feeding means and the blade, to actuate thel blade from the lace feeding bar in opposite directions, and a folder for the raw edge of the cloth between the blade and the peint where the lace is stitched to the cloth.

28. ln a lace sewing machine, the com-` bination with a presser foot and stitch forining mechanism, co-operating therewith, of a lace feeding bail disposed above the bed of the machine and reciprocating with respect to the front part of the presser foot along a certain transverse plane, av cloth cutting blade movable along the presser foot in a plane in front of and at an angle to the plane of the feeding bar, and a bell crank connection directly connecting said lace feeding bar and said cutting blade to ac tuate the cutting blade from the feeding bar.

29. In a lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot having a transverse slot in its bottom, mea-ns disposed above the bed plate of the machine to feed lace down wardly through said slot and including a reciprocating bar, means to stitch the lace to the cloth beneath the slot, a cloth cutting blade guided for reciprocation in the'front part of the presser foot, a lever pivoted on the presser foot between the lace feeding bar and the blade, and direct pivotal connections between the ends of the lever and the bar and blade respectively whereby the blade is actuated from the bar, but in an opposite direction.

30. In a two needle lace sewing machin-e, the combination of a presser foot having a transverse slot in its bottom, a pair of transverse-ly adjustable needles acting throu lh said slot, means to feed lace downwaro. and rearwardly through said slot beneath the needles, 'cutting means to trim the clath between the rows of stitches formed by the needles, and means acting'between the cutting means and the needles toturn the raw edges of the cloth downward so as to be engaged by said stitches.

3l. In a lace sewinl machine, the combination of a presser root having pair of parallel inclined gnideways in its front portion, a cloth folding member located in one of said guideways, a cloth cutting member in the other guideway, means te reciprocate the cutting member along its guideway, and stitch forming mechanism acting upon the cut and folded cloth in the rear of the cutting and folding members.

The combination of presser foot, means to feed lace downwardly and rearwardly along the front portion thereof, a pair oi' needles, means to rociproc-dc th-I needles through 'the lace and cloth a tl i middle portion ot the toot, cloth out?. members acting;- on the cloth respectivei5,y 't'ront olf each needle, means to operate the cloth cuttingY members, and means actt ti l between the cutt up," members and the nee to cause the rr V edges ol" the cloth to beneath the edges ot the lace.

The combination with a presser a needle bar, and a needle carried by the needle bar, ol means to trim and told tl cloth in front oit the needle, a i iember pivoted upon a horizontal pivot upon the presser foot adjacent to the needle bar and operated thereby and connections between the pivoted member and the folding ineaiu to actuate the latter coincidentally with the downward movement oit the needle b ln a two ne alle lace sewing machine, the combination ot a preshaving guideways in its Yfront portion, rer 'p rati needle mechanism cti-operating ith the presser foot, a member pivoted upon the presser foot in position to be voscillated l the needle mechanism d aire' the reciprocations thereot', a plurality ot cloth ci and toldingg)` members movable in said ways, and connections between the member and the folding mourners ."liercbv the oscillation ol' the pivoed member cause the active operation of the l'oldingg; members coincidentally with the downward recijirocatioi'i ot the needle mechanism.

ln a lace sewing` machine, the combination ot a presser toot comprisingl two relatively laterally movable parts, means to Vtoed lace to and through the presser 'to-ot, said feeding means including, devices spanningl the gap between the parts ot the presser tout and along,r which spanning devices the lace is caused to move, means to hold the lace in the position to which it is moved, and stitch forming n'ieans cti-operating! with the edges ot the lace at the bottom ol the presser foot.

36. In a two needle lace sewing machine, the combination of a two-part variable width presser toot, a rocker pivoted upon the two parts of the presser foot, means to hold the upon the presser toot on a horizontal pivot and including a downwardly projecting blade, a needle bar adapted to engage said blade on its down stroke and cause the oscillation ot the rocher, a sleeve extendine downwardly trom the rocher at one side or the blade, means .actingr upon the cloth beneath the gti-oat part oi the presse ioot, a nnri'lzontal draw bar attached at one end to the means acting upon the cloth, the other end or the draw bar havine' an eye, and a pin extending from the lower end ot the .sleeve into said eye for actuation ot the draw bar from the needle bar and rocker.

38. in a lace sewing machine, the combination o' a presser foot, a needle bar, a ro er pivoted upon the presser toot and having a j nojectingl blade adapted to be engaged by the needle bar to oscillate the rocher, a sleeve projecting downwardly l'rom the roel-zer, pin slidable longitudinally in the 'tree end or the sleeve and projecting,` normally therefrom, a cloth tolding plunger guided for reciprocation in the iront part ot the presser foot, member connectingl the pin aforesaid with said plunger, means to hold the pin retracted into the .sleeve when the plunoer is to be idle, and means connected to the plunger to hold it up in idle position when the pin is retracted from said connecting member.

39. ln a lace sewing machine, the combination oi a presser foot, a reciprocating needle bar, a rocker mounted upon the presser toot adjacent to the needle bar and adapted to oscillate around a horizontal pivot, a pair of blades carried by the rocker and extending at an angle to each other above and below said pivot and engageable in alternation by the needle bar as it approaches the ends ot its reciprocations whereby the rocker is actuated positively in both directions, means actingl upon the cloth in lront ot the needle bar, and connections between the last named means and said rocker.

s0. lin variable width presser loot mechanism for sewing machines, the combination with the relatively laterally adj estable parts ot the foot, of a compound dil'erential pitch screw extending between said two parts, the press-er toot having a stationary projection between the adjustable parts, one part of the screw being ournaled in one presser loot part and threaded into said projection, and rt oil the screw beinzg` lined to the A t par'v and having' threaded engagement with the journaled part of the screw, the two sets of threads being of diterent pitch, and means to rotate the one screw part whereby both foot parts are actuated sin'iultaneously in opposite directions.

el. In a variable width two needle lace sewii'noY n'iachine, the combination of a two part presser i'oot, plurality of compound llO lflll screws extending between the two parts of the foot, one part of each screw being journaled in one foot part but held from endwise movement with respect thereto, the other part of the same .screw being fixed to the opposite foot part, and means to rotate all the journaled screw parts simultaneously whereby the foot parts are moved in opposite directions in parallelism.

42. In a sewing machine, a presser foot having' a rearwardly inclined guideway, and a cloth cutter arranged to reciprocate along said guid-eway, the cutting edge of said cutter and the direction of movement thereof, being diagonal to the direction of feed of the cloth.

43. In a sewing machine, a presser foot, and a cloth-cutter carri-ed by said presser foot and movable thereon, the cutting edge of said cutter and the direction of movement thereof, being diagonal to the direction of feed of the cloth. v

44. In a sewing machine, a. pressure foot, and a cloth-cutter carried by said presser foot .and movable thereon in a plane extending lengthwise of the line of feed, the cute ting edge of said cutter and the direction of movement thereof, being diagonal to the direction of feed of the cloth.

45. In a sewing machine, a presser foot, and a cloth-cutter carried by said presser foot and movable thereon in a plane extending lengthwise of the line of feed in an inclined path, the cutting edge of said cutter and the direction of movement thereof, being diagonal to the direction of feed of the cloth.

46. In asewing machine, a presser foot provided with a guideway inclined downwardly and rearwardly in a vertical plane parallel to the line. of feed, and a clothcutter arranged to reciprocate .along said guideway, the cutting edge of said cutter and the direction of movement thereof, being diagonal to the direction of feed of the cloth.

47. In a sewing machine, a presser foot having apertures for the passage of two needles, and two cloth-cutters carried'by saidpresser foot movably and arranged toV operate between the planes in which the said needles operate. y

48. In sewing machine, two adjacent reciprocating needles arranged laterally of each other with respect to the line of feed, a presser foot, and twocloth-cutters carried by said presser foot movably and spaced laterally from each other a distance smaller than the lateral spacing of the needles, said cloth-cutters operating between the lines of operation of the two adjacent needles.

49. In a sewing machine, a reciprocating needle-carrying bar, a presser foot 'co-operating with the needle, means for folding lace relatively to said presser foot, a clothfolder carried by the presser foot and movable relativcly thereto, and means for actuating said cloth-folder by the movement of the needle bar.

50. In a sewing machine, a presser foot consisting of sections both relatively adjustable to vary the distance between them, said sections adapted to contact with each other in the extreme narrow position of said presser foot, and a tongue extending over the upper surfaces of said sections tospan the space between said sections when they are separated.

5l. In a sewing machine, a presser foot comprising sections relatively adjustable in a direction, transverse to the line of feed, a tongue to span the space. between said sections, and a lace feeder movable in co-oper' ation with said presser foot sections and tongue.

. In a sewing machine, ay presser foot comprising sections relatively adjustable in a direction transverse to the line of feed, a tongue to span the space between said sections, and a lace feeder movable in co-operation with said presser foot sections and tongue, and comprising sections associated with the respective presser foot sections and adjustable relatively in a transverse direction. i

53. In a sewing machine,` a presser foot comprising sections relatively adjustable in a. direction transverse to the line of feed, and a lace-feeder movable relatively to the presser foot to co-operate therewith, and comprising sections adjustable relatively in a transverse direction and associated with the respective presser foot sections.

54. In a sewing machine, a presser foot comprising sections relatively adjustable in a direction, transverse to the line of feed, and means for effecting the relative adjustment of said sections, said meansv including a plurality of screws connecting said sections, pinions on the said screws, and a master gear meshing with said pinions to ope-rate them together.

55. In a sewing machine, a Apresser foot comprising `sections relatively adjustable in a direction, transverse to the line of feed, reciprocating needle-holders likewise relatively adjustable in a transverse direction, a plurality of adjusting screws connecting the needle-holders, a plurality of adjusting screws connecting the presser foot sections, pinions on all of said screws, and a master gea-r meshing with all of said pinions 'to effect simultaneously a relative adjustment of the needle-holders and of the. presser foot sections.

56. In a lace sewingl machine, a presser foot, means for feeding lace relative to said presser foot, and a cloth-folder movable on said presser foot in a plane extending lengthwise of the line of feed.

57. In a lace sewing machine, a presser foot, means for feeding lace relative to said presser foot, and a cloth-folder movable on said presser foot in a vertical plane extending lengthwise of the line of feed.

5S. ln a lace sewing machine, a presser foot, means for feeding lace relative to said presser foot, and a cloth-folder movable on said presser foot, lengthwise of the line of feed and obliquely to such line.

59. ln a lace sewing machine, a presser foot, means for feeding lace relative to said presser foot, stitching mechanism, and a cloth-folder movable in front of said mechanism in a plane extending lengthwise of the line of feed.

(l0. ln a lace sewing machine, stitching mechanism, a presser foot, means for feeding lace relative to said presser foot, and a cloth-folder movable in front of said mechanism in a vertical plane extending lengthwise of the line of feed.

6l. ln a lace sewing machine, stitching mechanism, a presser foot, means for feeding lace relative to said presser foot, and a clotl folder movable in front of said mechanism lengthwise of the line of feed and obliquely thereto.

GQ. In a sewing machine, two adjacent andspaced needles disposed in a line transverse to the line of feed of the material, and two spaced cloth cutters arranged to operate in front of the needles to form two cuts in the material between the lines of operation of the needles to cut a portion of material therefrom.

63. In a sewing machine, two adjacent and spaced needles disposed in a line transverse to the line of feed of the material, and two spaced cloth cutters arranged to operate in front of the needles to form two cuts in the material between the lines of operation of the needles to cut a po-rtion of material therefrom, and means for supplying lace to bridge the opening which results from the operation of said critters.

Gel. ln a sewing machine, a cloth cutter having up and down movement in a straight line and provided with an oblique cutting edge adapted to cut into the cloth as said Litter descends with a uniform cutting force, the cutting point of engagement moving downwardly and rearwardly as the cutter descends.

G5. ln a sewing machine, a presser foot consisting of normally contiguous sections relatively adjustable to vary the distance between them, and means extending at its side edges over the upper surfaces of said sections and adapted to span the space between said sections when separated.

66. In a lace sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot comprising two relatively latcrally movable parts, means to feed lace to and through the presser foot, said feeding means including devices spanning the gap between the parts of the presser foot and along which spanning devices the lace is caused to move.

67. ln a sewing machine, a presser foot consisting of a pair of sections relatively adjustable to vary the distance between them, a lace guiding tongue to span the space between said scctions, and spring means disposed between said tongue and saidsections to maintain said tongue centrally of the side extremities of said sections.

68. In a sewing machine, a presser foot consisting of a pair of sections relatively adjustable to vary the distance between them, a lace guiding tongue to span the space between said sections, means disposed between said tongue and said sections to maintain said tongue centrally of the side extremities of said sections, keeper disposed over said tongue and spring means disposed between said keeper and said sections to maintain said keeper centrally of the side extremities of said sections.

69. In a sewing machine, a presser foot consisting of a pair of sections relatively adjustable to vary the distance between them, a tong-ue to span the space between said sections, and means carried byysaid sections and adapted to span the space between said tongue and the side extremities of said sections.

70. In a sewing machine, a presser foot consisting of a pair of sections relatively adjustable in a direction transverse to the line of feed, reciprocating needle holders provided with needles likewise relatively adjustable transversely to the line of feed, lace guide means carried by said presser foot, and keepers on said respective sections movable therewith and provided with lingers adapted to maintain a constant position relatively to said needles.

7l. In an adjustable two-needle sewing machine, a bar, a presser foot comprising a pair of sections extending on opposite sides of the bar and having needle openings, and means for adjusting the sections simultaneously and equally toward or from the bar, said means comprising a screw rotatably mounted in one of said sections and threaded into the bar and a second screw iixed in the other section and secured to the first-mentioned screw by threads having twice the pitch of the threads on the first-mentioned screw.

RALPH M. SHARAF.

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