US1425942A - Machine and method for use in shaping uppers - Google Patents

Description

M- BROCK- MACHINEAND METHOD FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 22| 1911- 1,425,942.

RENEWED JULY 25' I921.

Patented Aug. 15,1922.

4 SHEETS-SHEET I.

. BROOK. MACHINE AND METHOD FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 22,1917- RENEWED JULY 25,192l.

Patented Aug. 15, 1922.

fSHEETS-SHEET 2.

//V I/E/V 75?.

M. BROCK. MACHINE AND METHOD FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS. v ARPLICATION FILED 0CT..22, 1917- RENEWED JULY 25, 1 921. 1,425,942, Patented Aug. 15, 1922.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3- HI! I LIIfiififf -1- 1 7m M, BROCK.

MACHINE AND METHOD FOR USE IN SHAPINGUPPERS. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 22. 1917. RENEWED JULY 25.1921.

1,425,942 Patented Aug. 15,1922;

Q 4SHEETSSHEET 4.

12 k 05 H v I F1 5, I

n'. 71? i #2 F1 go M qualities of welt shoes MATTHIAS BROCK, or BOSTON, nassnonusn'rrs, .assioivon, BY iunsnn T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, orra'rnnson, NEW

PORATION 01? NEW JERSEY..

nssre vnnlvrs, JERSEY, A con-- MACHINE AND METHOD FOR USE IN SHAPING UPPERS.

Application filed October 22, 1917, Serial 1 To. 19'7,863.

ToaZZ whom it may concern 6 it known that I, Mnrrriias Bacon, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Inn provements in Machines and lilethods for Use in. Shaping Upper-s, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and is herein illustrated in its application to the making; of stichdown shoes. It will be recognized, however, that in many of its aspects the invention is not limited to the manufacture of shoes of that particular type, but is generally applicable to the making of shoes of various kinds.

It has heretofore been dillicult and, in fact impossible from the practical standpoint to produce a shoe of the stitchdown type in which the upper has the stretch removed and which is really lasted in the sense that the upper of a welt shoe is lasted; that is, one that has been so stretched and shaped that it will retain its shape dur- 111;; long use as well as fit the wearers foot.

The preliminary molding of the torepart ot the upper by prior machines; such, for e:-;- ample, as that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,170,405, granted Feb-- ruary l, 1916, on application of M. Brook and L. M. Brown, has contributed very r aterially toward the production of a satisfactorystitch-down shoe, but nevertheless the upper has not had the stretch. removed from it as thoroughly as is desirableiand as is possible by the pullingover and lasting operations in the manufacture of welt shoes, for the reason, amongothers that in the prior machines the uppers are all treated alike and the different stretchingcharacteristics of the individual upper are not taken care of. Moreover. in the lasting of the better upon a bed machine, the upper is wiped upwardly toward the sole of the shoe by thelasting wipers and thereby additionally stretched and con formed to the shape of the last. No operations corresponding very closely to the pull-' Specification of Letters Patent.

in the several figures,

shown also,

mg operation to'hold the'upper in stretched;

PatentedAug. '15, 1922. Renewed 'Ju1y25, 1921. Serial No; 487,519. 1

ing-over and bed lasting. operations formed on welt work have hitherto been per-- formed in the. manufacture of stitchdown, shoes.

l A general object of this invention is to provide a forming machine which willsub- Y ject an upper to a treatment which will remove the stretch from. the upper. and conform the upper to the'shape required in the finished shoe, the machine illustrated being adapted also to form on'the upper an out-- wardly directed sole attaching flange, the location of the angle of which with relation to the end and side portions of the upper is not determined arbitrarily as in prior lna-q chinesby the size to which the upper has been: cut, but which is determined by the shape the upperisrequired to assume in the finished shoe, including recedingor undercut" portions, and is formed inthe upper at the line of junction of the end. and sides ofthe upper with the sole, the angle beingformed.v in the upper after the stretch has een removed .irrespectively or" the size. to Which the upper has been originally out. V A further object of the invention is to sub?! jee't the upperduring the. fo'rmingflopera tions to the action of heat; of suchquality as torender the upper soft and pliable during 0 the stretching operationsand to dry and set the upper in the shape. into which it is formed after the stretch is removed. f A feature of the invention. consists in means for giving an upper a preliminary treatment which will remove the stretch from the upper, and means for wiping the upper about the toe in a'direction'toward the plane of the sole, with or without means for forming the margin of the upper projecting beyond the planeof the sole into an outwardly directed flange. In the machine means isprovided for; a'ssum of the upper after the stretching" control 95. condition while it is being further wiped in the manner described.

A further feature of the sists in means 'for subjecting the upper during the described operations to. heat treatment such that during invention [con- '100 the stretching operation the upper will be" rendered hot and I moist, and during the final wiping operation and the fianging operation the upper will be dried and premanently set in the final shape. Preferably also, means is provided for subjecting the upper between the stretching operation and the final wiping operation to an ironing operation with or without the action of a drying heat to assist in removing wrinkles and drying out the upper prior to the final wiping and flange setting operations.

Another feature of the invention consists in a novel organization comprising a form shaped to correspond to the forepart of the last, and toe embracing gripping jaws adapted to receive the upper in a substan tially flat condition and having their gripping facessubstantially parallel to the plane of the-upper, together with means for effecting relative movement of the form and the jaws in a direction perpendicular to the plane of the upper to cause the upper to be stretched and wrapped in stretched condition around the form, the upper in the machine shown slipping from between the jaws and being then disposed at its margin perpendieular to the bottom of the form which represents the plane of the sole in the coinleted shoe.

A further feature of the invention con sists in means for holding the upper margin in a position perpendicular to the bottom of the form, and means for wiping the upper at the end and sides of the form in a directiontoward thebottom of the form and to shape the upper under the overhanging portions of the form. In the machine shown the-re are also provided means co-operating with the Wipers for forming the portion of the upper extending beyond the bottom of the form into a sole attaching flange.

In a further aspect the invention provides a novel method for use in shaping upper materials. In accordance with the practice herein illustrated, the toe portion of the upper is molded off the last to give it sub-' stantially the shape which it is to have in the finished shoe by drawing it over a form and wiping it heightwise of the form, after which it is held from relaxing while its margin is shaped in accordance with the requirements of the particular type of shoe which is being made. The upper may, as illustrated, be wiped repeatedly heightwise of the form; and its margin also may be subjected to successive treatments, for example in stitchdown work by ironing it in substantially perpendicular relation to the plane of the bottom of the form and then wiping it outwardly to produce the flange characteristic of that type of shoe.

These and other features of the invention, and the novel method referred to, will appear more fully from the following detailed description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a side view of a machine embodying this invention;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the machine, which is herein shown as a double machine, one half being designed for operating upon a left shoe upper and the other half upon a right shoe upper;

Fig. 3 is a sectional view on an enlarged scale of the upper shaping and heat treating mechanism;

Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 7 are detail sectional views showing successive stages in the operation of the machine upon a shoe upper; and

. Fig. 8 is a perspective view of a shoe upper after its treatment by the machine.

Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawings, the numeral 2 indicates the frame of the machine in which are journaled adrive shaft i, and a cam shaft 6. Upon the shaft 6 are the came from which the movements of the various operating parts of the machine are derived, and also a suitable clutch 8 operated by a treadle 10 by which the shaft 6 is permitted to receive from the drive shaft i a semi-rotation at each ope 'ition of the treadle.

The machine is preferably double, that is, comprises two machines operated by separate treadles, the machine on one side being designed to operate upon an upper 101 a right shoe, and the machine on the other side being designed to operate upon an upper for a left shoe. It will be understood that upon depression of its treadle either machine may be started and will stop with the upper in final shaped condition, as illustrated in Fig. 7, and may be left any required time, for example, while the operator is placing an upper for the corresponding shoe in the other machine and starting it by operating the second treadle. The first t-readle may then be depressed to start the first machine which will stop with the parts in open position and the upper released.

Since the halves of the machine are substantially identical, it will be necessary only to describe one side of the machine, it being understood that the other side is identical except that it is designed for shaping the upper of a shoe for the other foot.

A last-lilre form 20 is provided to the shape of which the upper is to be formed or molded. The form 20 is supported upon post 22 guided for vertical movement in the machine frame and arranged to be raised to move the form vertically by a lever 24: pivoted at 25 between its ends and having at one end a pin and slot connection 27 with the post 22 and at the other end carrying a cam roll 28 which travels in a path 29 surface. 7 6 which embraces the form in close formed in a cam block 30. A cross-head 40 is mounted on rods 42vwhich are arranged for vertical sliding movement in the machine frame, Upon the rods 42 be neath the cross-head 40 are shoulders 44 to effect positive raising of the cros -head, and on the rods 42 above the cross-head 40 are springs 46 engaging at their upper ends adjustable abutments 48 upon the rods 42, through which springs the cross-head is yieldingly depressed. The lower ends of the rods 42 have pin and slot connections at 50 with a lever pivoted at 52 between its ends and having on its rear end a roll 54 which engages a cam path 56 in-the cam block 30. is a jaw plate 60 which embraces the toe portion of the form and is preferably formed adjacent to its inner edge with a rib or ribs 62. On the lower face of a part 63 attached to the crosshead 40 is a corresponding jaw plate 64 which, when the cross-head is depressed by the mechanism described. grips the projecting marginal portion of the flat upper against the jaw plate 60 or against the ribs 62 when these are provided. This operation is clearly illustrated in Fig. 4.

The form 20 is next raised vertically and causes all parts of the upper about the toe portion of the form to be stretched and wrapped over the toe portion of the form, as illustrated in Fig. 5, the margin of the upper slipping from between the jaw plates 60, 64 and being then disposed in a position perpendicular to the bottom of the form, that is, to the plane of the last bottom. During this treatment of the upper, the upper is subjected to moist heat, for example, by steam emitted from orifices 66 leading from a chamber 68 formed in the part 63, the chamber receiving steam from any suitable. tube 70. e

.As successive portions of the upper are being stretched and drawn from the jaw plates 60, 64, it is desirable that any wrinkles which may have formed be smoothed out and the upper be partially dried before it is further treated. For this purpose the part 63 just above the jaw plate formed as a toe embracing ironing source through a flexible conformity to its end and side faces, as shown in Figure 2, and engages the upper as it is being drawn from between the stretching jaws and effects upon it a rubbing or wiping action, while subjecting it to, dry heat, due to heating of the parts by the steam in the chamber 68. Preferably means is provided to press the margin ofthe upper against the ironing surface 76 during its passage across that surface, not only to augment the ironing ac tion of thesurface 76 but also to effect a On the machine frame, Fig. 3,-

.ing connection which causes the first The jaw member 64,

gripping of the stretched upper after it passes from between the] jaw plates and before control of it.is assumed 'by 'the wiper plates, to be described. pose there .are arranged just beneath the form 20 two plates 78,80 which are pivoted together at their inner-ends by. a halved joint, the pivot pin 83 of the joint extending downwardly and connecting the plates to a plate 82 arranged beneath it. The inner portions of these plates are cut away to permit the passage of the reduced upper end of the post 22 which supports the form 20. Between the plate 82 and a shoulder on the rod 22 is a washer 84 to provide a suitable bearing for the plate-82; The plate 82 projects beyond the" form 20 and is bifurcated to receive the upper end of a lever 86 having therein a by a pin 89 passing through the-bifurcations of the plate 82. The lever 86 is pivoted at 90 to lugs on the machine frame and its lower end is extending to the rear of the machine where itis pivoted to the upper arm 94. of an angle lever fulcrumed and having on its other arm 96 a roll 97 which engages an edge I block 30. In the link 92 at 106 is a yieldpart of the movement imparted by itto the plate 82 to be yielding. Itwill beseen that the long slot 88 engaged at 95 on the frame cam 98 on the cam- For this pur-,

pivotedto a link 92 cam through the connections described will.

' cause the lever 86 to move the plate 82 toward the ironing surface plate 82 will, of course, 80 to causethem to its inner face and force it yieldingly into contact with the ironing surface ,7 6, as illustrated in Fig. 5. ."The plates 78, 80 are arranged to be separated about'their pivot 83 in conjunction with their inward move:

76 yieldingly. The move the plates '4 8,

ment by'means of pins 100, 101 seated in the form 20 and extending downwardly iznto inclined'slots 102, 103 in the plates ends of .the plates 78, 80 to forced against the ironing surface" 7 6 at the sides of the toe as well the toe. After the yield at 106 is taken up,

engage the upper on as at the endof the link 92 will act positively to advance I the/plates 78, be described. From the position shown in Fig. 5, the form 20 continues to rise and the upper is engaged by toe embracing wipers 110, 112 mounted between the part 63 and a member oted together at 114 and are provided with cam slots 116 which engage rolls 118 to. control the closing movement of the wipers.

the part 63, and the member 113 are rigidly connectedtogether' by bolts 119, and the in spaced relation fromthe member receive. the wiper plates 110, 112

part 63 is maintained .1 t

80 farther, for a purpose to 1 13. The wipers are ,piv-

byen- 80. This construction causes the'outer be separated and form toward its bottom -face.

-7, the wipers at larged portions on the bolts 119 which also form pivots for the rolls 118 by which the closing movement of the wipers is controlled. Since the wipers in the construction shown are not required to perform any overwiping of the upper upon the last bottom, their movement may be slight, beingas shown only suflicient to take care of the recession of the sides and toe end'ot the The wipers 110, 112 extend rearwardly oi the machine and are slotted at 117 to receive pins 121 extending upwardly from a 'T-shaped slide 120 mounted for movement longitudinally of the form 20 in the machine frame.

The slide 120 is bored to receive a plunger 122 having a pin and slot connection at 124. with the upper end oic' the arm 9% by which the plunger 122 is actuated. Between the end of the plunger 122 and the end o'lf the bore in the slide 120 isa spring 3y which the slide 120 is actuated yieldingly from the plunger. ldositive retraction of the slide 120 is elected from the plunger by means 01 a pin 128 which engages a block 130 connected to the slide 120 by means of an adjusting screw By adjusting the screw 132 the retracted position of the slide 120 and hence the open position of the wipers 110, 112 may be varied. its the upward movement of the form 20 rontinues the wipers 11), 112 are advanced yieldingly through the mechanism descril to engage the upper on the end and sides of the form and wipe the upper downwardly toward the plane 01 the bottom of the form, as clearly illustrated in 5 and 6. When the plane of the bottom oi the term reached substantially the plane of the lower face of th wipers, Fig. 6, the plates 78, 80 are advanced through the mechanism already described to turn out wardly the margin of the upp extending across their edge faces to I m an outwardly extending flange, shown in the time acting to gle between the form the upper into the a end and side faces ot the rm and the top {MEGS of the plates '78, 80. The machine stops with the parts in this position .to al low the stock to set in the shape into which it has now been formed. .lt will be observed that the awipers receive the heat: conducted from the steam heated part 63 which assists materially in causing the up" per to set quickly in its molded term. The wiper plates 78, 80, being farther from the source Off heat and having greater radiating surface, are 1 es intensely heated than the ironing surface l6 across which the upper has passed to effect partial drying out or the upper before the flange turning and flange setting operations.

While this side of the machine remains in stopped position an upper may be introduced into the corresponding mechanism of the other side of the machine and subjected to siilar operations. By the time this has been effected, the mechanism of the first side of? the machine may be restarted and the molded upper removed from the machine. Aiter this treatment the upper will retain its form and is ready for attachment of a sole or soles in the usual manner for completing the stitch-down shoe.

Since the movement of the form 20 is in fixed vertical path, it is desirable to provide adjustment for the jaw plate 6 1 and the ironing surface 76 longitudinally of th form. To effect this, the member 113 to which the jaw 6 part 63 and the surface 76 are connected as described, is arrai en for adjustment relatively to the cross-head 10. The member 113 has a rearward extension 1 10 havingan upwardly ex tending lug in which is rotatably mounted a screw 142 having threaded engagement with the cross-head 4:0, as clearly shown in Fig. 3. By turning the screw the member 113 and its connected parts may be adjusted longitudinally of the form 20. Should this adjustment be suiiicient to interfere with the operation of the wipers 110, 112, the screw 132 may also be correspondingly adjusted to maintain the slots 116 and the wipers in proper relation to the rolls 118.

vlilaving tully described my invention, What l claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. ln an upper forming machine, a form having the shape which the torepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, upper gripping means arranged to receive the ma qinal portions ofthe upper, means "for mer the erm and the grippingmeans relatively to cause the upper to be wrapped about the dorm. and progressively with drawn from the gripping means, means for wipi g the upper at the end and sides of the form toward the bottom of the form, and neans for bending outwardly the portion o'r' the upperextending beyond the bottom 01% the form and pressing it against the wiping means.

2. ln an upper forming machine, a form having substantially the shape which the lorepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, upper holding means adapted to receive the marginal portion of an upper and hold it yieldingly, means for moving the form and holding means rela: tively to cause the upper to be wrapped about the form and progressively withdrawn from the holding means, and means for assuming control ol the tensioned upper as it leaves the holding means to pre vent retraction of the upper. i

3. In an upper forming machine,"a form having the shape which the torepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, up-

tional means for molding the p01 upper extending beyond the bot form into a sole attaching flange.

13. In a machine out the class described, the combination of means for gripping the margin of a fiat upper, a shoe forepart rorm having undercut or receding portions movable relatively to the gripping means to draw the upper from the gripping means and stretch it in a direction perpendicular to the bottom of the. shoe form, means for holding the stretched upper under tension after it leaves the gripping means, wiping means for wiping the stretched upper on the form in a direction toward the bottom of the form and arranged for closing movement to shape the upper to the undercut portions of the form, and means for forming the portion of upper extending beyond the bottom of the form outward to form an outwardly directed flange upon the upper.

1a. In a machine of the class described, the combination of an upper gripper, a toe embracing wiping means arranged for closing movement, a form having the shape of the torepart of a shoe including receding or undercut portions adjacent to the bottom of the form, means for relatively moving the form and the. other mentioned elements to bring an upper overlying the form into position for operations of the wiping means, and means for operating the wiping means to do its work.

15. In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for gripping the margin of a flat upper, a shoe forepart :torm

having undercut portions and movable relatively to the gripping means to draw the upper from the gripping means and stretch it in a direction perpendicular to the bottom of the shoe form, form emltiracir wipers wipingthe stretched upper on t, e :torm in a direction toward the bottom ot the term and arranged for closing movement to shape the upper to the undercut portions or the form, and means for forming the portion or upper extending beyond the bottom of the term outward against the bottonm face oi: the wipers to form an outwardly directed. flange upon the upper. 7

16. In an upper forming machine, a form having the shape which the torepart oi the upper is to assume in the finished shoe,

clamping jaws a-ranged to embrace the form and receive a fiat upper overlying the form, means for moving the form and jaws relatively to cause the upper to be wrapped about the form and progressively drawn from the jaws until its marginal portion assumes a position substantially perpendicular to the bottom of the form, and means for ironing the perpendicularly disposed portion of the upper,

17. In an upper forming machine, a form having the shape which the torepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, clamping jaws arrangedto embrace the-form and receive a flat upper overlying the form, means for moving the form and jaws relatively to cause the upper to be wrapped. about the form and progressively withdrawn from the jaws, and heated means "for ironing the upper as it is withdrawn from the aws. 7

18. in an upper forming machine, a form having the shape which the torepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, clamping arranged to embrace the form and receive a flat upper overlying the t'r'orm, means for moving the form and jaws relatively to cause the upper to be wrapped about the form and progressively withdrawn from the jaws, heated means for ironing the upper during its withdrawal from the jaws, and means for rorcing the upper yieldingly against the heated ironing means.

19. In an upper forming machine, a form having the shape which the forepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, upper gripping means arranged to receive the marginal portions of the upper, means for moving the form and relatively to cause the upper to be wrapped about the form and progressively with drawn from the gripping means, means for subjecting the uppe during its withdrawal to the action of moist heat, means for ironing the upper as it leaves the gripping means applying dry heat to the upper, means for wiping the upper at the end and sides of the form toward the bottom of the form, means for bending outwardly the portion of the upper extending beyond the bottom ot the form and pressing it against the means, and means for heating the L l. A i 20. In an upper tormmg machine, a form having: the shape which the torepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, up gripping means arranged to receive the marginal portions or the upper, means for moving the form and the gripping mcns relatively to cause the-upper to be rapped about the form and progressively withdrawn from the gripping means, means for ironing the upper as it leaves the grippi 7 means, means for wiping the upper at the end and sides of the form toward the bottom of the form, means for bending outwardly the portion or": the upper extending beyond the bottom ot the form and pressing it against the wiping means, and means for heating the wiping means.

21. ln an upper forming machine, a form ha ing the shape which theforepart of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, up per gripping means arranged to receive the marginal portlons of the upper, means for moving the form and the gripping means relatively to cause the upper to be wrapped the gripping means to the action of moist 22. In an upper forming machine, a form having the shape of the for-epart of a shoe adapted to receive a fiat upper in a position overlying the form, ironing means, means for tensioning the upper about the form and arranged to release the upper to the ironing means, means for applying intense drying heat to the ironing means, and wiping means heated to a temperature less than that ofthe ironing means acting inconjunction with the ironing means to shape the upper to the form and form conforming position to be set by the heat of the wipers, and means for turning out the margin of the upper extending beyond the bottom of the form against the heated wipers. I 23. In'an upper forming machine, a form having the shape of the forepart ot a shoe adapted to receive a flat upper in a position overlying the form, ironing means, means for tensio-ning the upper about the form and arranged to release the upper to the ir nin means, meanstor applyingrelat'vely high ironing drying temperature to the. V and wiping means heated to temperature less than that of the ironing means in conjunction with the ironing means to shape the upper to the form and to hold the upper in form conforming position to be set by the heat of the wiping means.

24. In a machine of the class described, the combination of an upper gripper, a toe embracing ironing means; a toe embracing wiping means arranged for closing movement, aform having the shape of the forepart of a shoe including the receding or undercut portions adjacent to the bottom of the form, means for relatively moving the form and the other mentioned elements to bring anupper overlying the form into po-' sition for successive operations of the elements in the order named, means for operat ing the gripping, ironing and wiping means to do their work, and means for effecting relative adjustment of the form and the gripping, ironing anclwiping means longitudinally of the form.

25. In an upper forming machine, a form having'tlie shape of the forepart of a shoe adapted to receive a flat upper in a position overlying the form, wiping means, means for tensioning the upper about the form and arranged to release the upper to the wiping means, means for applying'dry heat to the progressively .with

end and sic-Les of "the adapted'to receive a flat upper to hold the upper in .means for moving the form and holding upper as it passes from the tensioning means to the wiping means, and means for turning outthe: margin of the upper extendmg'beyond the bottom of the form againstthe wiping means; i 26. In an upper forming machine, a formhaving the shape of the torepart of a shoe adapted to receive a flat upper in a position overlying the form, wiping means, means for 'tensioning the upper about the formand arranged to release the upper means, meansifor applying heat to th'ewiping'means to set the upper to the [fornnand means for turning out the margin of the upper entendingbeyond the bottom of the form against the heated wiping means.

27. In an upper forming machine, a form having the shape of the forepartof a shoe in a position; overlying the term, means for "applying moist heat to the unformed upper'to soften it, wiping means, means for tensioning the upper about the form'iand arranged to frelease the upper-to the wiping means, and means for turningout the margin of the up per extending beyond the bottom of the form against the wiping means. v

28. Inan upper forming machine, a form having substantially the forepart'of the upper is to assume in the finished shoe, yielding y ;.actuated upper holding means arranged to embrace the shape Which the I to the wiping form and adapted to receive the marginal",

portion of an upper "and hold it yieldingly,

means relativelyto cause the upper to be wrapped about the form and to be progressively withdrawn from the holding means, and means automatically operative in such relative movement otthe form and the hold ing means to wipe the upper toward the bot tom ofthe form. v v I,

29, In an upper torming'machme, a form having the shape which the forepa rt of the upper isto assume in the finished shoe, clamping means "embracing the form adapted to receive themarginal portion "ofthe upper, said clamping means -,comprising upper and lower plates one of whichis ribbed, and means for moving the form and clampingmeans relatively to causethe upper to be wrapped about the form and progressively withdrawn fronrthe clamping means. I 1

30, In a machine of the class described, the combination of upper confining means, a former, means for relatively moving the confining means and the former to withdraw the upper from the confining means, and means acting during the relative movement of the former and the confiningmeans to press the upper at the end andsides of the toe against the end and sid'esi'of the former," 31. That improvementin methods of mak ing shoes which includes as, a preliminary step preparatory to lasting, confining the margin of a shoe upper, shaping the unconfined portion to the shape of the torepart of the shoe zvhile allowing the upper to withdraw from confinement, and applying wiping pressure to the end and sides of the forepart.

'32. That improvement in methods of making shoes which includes as a preliminary step preparatory to lasting, confining the margin of a shoe upper, shaping the unconfined portion to the shape of the forepart of the shoe by relative movement of former and the confining means substantially perpendicular to the sole {are of the former, and applying rubbing pressure to the end and sides of the former additionally to tension the upper during said relative movement.

38, That improvement paring shoe uppers for cludes confining the margin of a flat upper, and relatively moving the confined and the unconfined portions to form a toe pocket in theupper wh le ironing the outer face 01" the upper and permitting the confined portion to withdraw from confinement.

34. That improvement in methods of preparing shoe uppers for lasting which i1- clu'des confining the margin of a fiat upper, relatively moving the'confined and'unconfined portions to form a toe pock 'Le upper while ironing the outer su vce of the upper and permitting the confined portion to withdraw from confinement, and reduc the periphery of the toe pocket adj; the plane of the shoe bottom.

35. That improvement in methods forming uppers preparatory to la which includes confining the margin of .ihe upper, subjecting the exterior oi? the unconfined portion to the action of moist heat, and forming the unconfined portion in the shape of the end of the shoe while with drawing the confined margin from confine ment and forming it into an upstanding edge about the end of the shoe.

inmethods of prelasting which in- 36. That 'mprovement in methods of forming uppers preparatory to lasting which includes confining the mars u of ti upper, subjecting the exterior or the unconfined portion to the action of moist heat, forming the unconfined portion to the shape of a shoe toe while withdrawing the confined margin from confinement and forming it into an upstanding edge about the shoe toe, and applying drying heat to the side and end portions of the toe upper thus formed,

37. That improvement in'methods of preparing shoe uppers for lasting ich includes confining the margin of a fiat upper, relatively moving the confined and unconfined portions toiorm a toe pocket in the upper, reducing the periphery of the toe ocket adjacent to the plane of the shoe hott m, then turning outwardly the margin upper beyond the reduced periphery, and holding the outturned flange under pressure to set the fiange in its shaped position.

38. That improvement in methods of preparing shoe uppers for lasting'which includes confining the margin of an upper, relatively moving the confined and unconfined portions to form a toe pocket in the upper while applying rubbing pressure to the outer face of the upper and permitting tl e confined portion to withdraw from conement, turning the margin of the upper right angles to the sides of the pocket to form a flange, and subjecting the flange to the action ottheat to set the flange in shaped position. v y

That improvement in methods of pre paring shoe uppers for lasting Which includes confining the margin'ot an upper, relatively moving the confined and unconfined portions to form a toe pocket in the upper while ironing the outer face of the upper and permitting the confined portion to withdraw from confinement, turning the margin of the upper at right angles to the sides oi the toe pocket to form a fiange, and subjecting the flange to the action of heat and pressure to set the flange.

d0. That improvement in methods of molding the toe portion or" upper materials oil the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe which consists in wiping an upper over the end and side faces of a form to work the upper into conformity to the contour of the form athen holding the upper against the form to prevent it from relaxing, an while thus holding the upper molding its marginal portion into a sole attaching flange.

ll. That improvement in methods of mold ing' the toe portion of upper materials oil the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, which consists in gripping the margin of an upper about the toe end and drawing the upper over a form, wiping the upper over the end and side faces of the form, and then molding the marginal portion of the upper into a sole attaching flange.

42. That improvement in methods of molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe which consists in gripping the marginof an upper about the toe end and drawing the upper over a form, wiping the upper over the end and side faces of the form and then iolding it pressed against said faces, and while thus holding the upper shaping its marginal portion between rigid molding instrumentalities to produce a sole attaching flange.

4E3. That improvement in methods of molding the toe portion of upper materials off the la t to give them substantially the shape whichthey are to have in the finished shoe which consists in clamping the margin of an upper about the toe end and drawingt he upper over a form while giving up stock from the clamped margin, embracing the toe of the upper and wiping it heightwise of the form while drawing the upper over the form, and thereafter molding the marginal portion of the upper into a sole attaching flange.

l4. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for clamping the marginal portion of an upper about the toe end, operating mechanism for effecting relative'movement of said clamping means and the form in the direction of the height of the form to draw the upper over the form, means for wiping the upper over the end and side faces of the form, and means arranged for subsequent operation to mold the marginal portion of the upper into a sole attaching flange. I

45. In a machine for molding the toe portion of. upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are a to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of a device for clamping the marginal portion of theupper about the toe end, operatingmechanism for effecting relative movement of said clamping device and the form to draw the upper over the form, means forwiping the upper heightwise of the form and. for then holding it against the form, and additional means arranged to be operated while the upper is thus held to mold the marginal portion of the upper into asole attaching flange.

46. Ina machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for clamping; the narginal portion of the upper about the toe end, operating mechanism for effecting relative movement of said clamping means and th form to draw the upper over the form, a

device automatically operative in such relative movement of the clamping means and the form to wipe the upper heightwise of the form, and means automatically operative thereafter to mold the marginal portion of the upper into a sole attaching flange.

47. In a machine for molding'the toe, portion of uppermaterials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a a form, of means for gripping the marginal portion of the upper and drawing.

the upper over the form, means for wiping the upper heightwlse of the form comprlsembracing the form and 4118. In a machine formolding the toe POI:

tion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the'finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for ironing themargin of the upper in a position perpendicular to the bottom of the form,.and means for turning and clamping the margin of the upper extending beyond the bottom. of the form in a position parallel to the bottom of the form. l

49. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials of? the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of a member having av surface embracing the form and across which the upper is drawn byrelative movement of the member and form, and means acting against the inner side of the upper to force it against said surface and maintain it under tension.

50. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished-shoe, the combination with a form, of a member having a surface across which the upper is drawn by relative movement of the member and form, means acting against the inner side of the upper to force it against said surface to maintain it under tension, and wipers arranged to co-operate subsequently with said means to clamp the upper margin in on turned relation to the form.

51. In a machine for molding the toe portionof upper materials oil thelast to give them substantially the shape which they .are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of aplurality of upwiping de vices operating successively to work the upper heightwise of the form.

52. In a machine for molding the toe portion or" upper materials off the last toigive themsubstantially the shape which they are to have in the finished. shoe, the. combination with an undercut'form, of two upwipmg ClQVlCGS operating success vely. upon the upper, one constructed and arranged to tension the upper and dispose its margin perpendicular to the bottom of the form and the other comprising wipers operated to them substantially the shape which they are ales,

to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for clamping the upper substantiall in a plane parallel with the bottom of the form, means for relatively moving the form and clamping means to shape the upper over the form and cause it to withdraw from the clamping means, and means for holding the margin of the upper as it withdraws from the clamping means in a position substantially perpendicul to the bottom of the form.

54:. In a machine for molding the toe portion or upper materials oil the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with upper margin confining means and a form relatively movable to cause the upper to be wrapped about the form, of a plurality oi wiping devices operating successively to work the upper heightwise of the form toward the bottom of the form.

in a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials oil the last to give them substantially the shape. which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of two wiping devices operating successively upon the upper during relative movement of the form and said devices one device constructed and arranged to tension the upper and dispose its margin perpendicular to the bottom of the form and the other device comprising wipers arranged to close against the form and acting to wipe the upper heightwise of the form.

56. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for clamping the up per substantially in a plane parallel with the bottom of the form, means for moving the form relatively to the clamping means, an ironing device of fixed contour embracing the upper, and means for holding the mar gin of the upper as it withdraws from the clamping means against the ironing device in a position substantially perpendicular to the bottom of the form.

57. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials oil the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for clamping the upper, means for moving the form relatively to the clamping means to stretch the upper over the form, an ironing-device of fixed ({Ol'ltour embracing the upper, means for holding the margin of the upper as it withdraws from the clamping means against the iron ing device in a position substantially perpendicular to the bottom of the form, and wiping means having a closing movement against the form as the form continues to move, to shape the upper to the form and work the upper heightwise or the form.

1 ,ass ,eae

58. ln a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give tuem substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of two upwiping devices operating successively upon the upper, one comprising a fixed outer member and an expanding inner member to tension the upper and dispose its margin perpendicular to the bottom of the form and the other comprising wipers having a closing movement against the form and operating to wine the upper heightwise of the form.

59. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials oil the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of means for clamping the upper substantially in a plane parallel with the bottom of the form, means for relatively moving the "form and clamping means, a fixed outer member and an expanding inner member co -operating to hold the margin of the upper as it withdraws from the clamping means in a position substantially perpendicular to the bottom of the form, and a pair of wipers co-operating with said inner member to mold the margin of upper extending beyond the bottom of the form into a sole attaching flange,

50. in a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials oflj the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a form, of an ironing member having a surface embracing the form and across which the upper is drawn by relative movement of the member and form, an expanding member acting against the inner side of the upper to force the upper against the surface of the ironing member and maintain it under tension, means for operating said expanding member after said relative movement has carried the margin of the upper beyond the ironing member to turn outwardly the margin of the upper, and means cooperating with the expanding member to clamp the margin of the upper in outturned relation to the form.

61. In a machine for molding the toe portion of upper materials off the last to give them substantially the shape which they are to have in the finished shoe, the combination with a movable form, of a member having a surface embracing the form and across which the upper is drawn by movement of the form, expanding means for holding the upper against the surface and maintaining it under tension, and wipers cooperating with said upper expanding means upon further movement of the form and after further expansion of said means to clamp the upper margin in outturned relation to the form.

62. In a machine for molding the toe percontinuous to Work the upper heightwise of the form, and means for effecting further movement of said pressing means positively after movement of the form ceases to cause said pressing means to cooperate With the Wiping means to'clamp the upper of the bottom of the form.

In testimony whereof I have signed name to this specification.

MATIJHIAS BROOK.

margin in i outspread position substantially in the plane

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