US1341448A - Triple-seam sewing-machine - Google Patents

Description

A. H. WEIS.

TRIPLE SEAM SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 30.191s..

Patented May 25, 1920.

3 SHEETSSHEET l- 'IN V EN TOR.

- A TTOR EYS.

A. H. WEIS.

TRIPL E SEAM S EWI NG MAC H I N E.

APPLICATION F LED J ULY 30. 1 s 1 a.

. 341 44 Patented May 25, mm

3 SHE TSSHEET 2.

i 1&2,

A. H. WEIS.

TRIPLE SEAM SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 30. I918.

1,341,448. Y Patented May25,1920.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

FFIQE.

ALBERT I-I. WEIS, 01E NYAGK, NEW YGRK, ASSIGNOR TO METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE COBPOBATIGN, A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE.

TRIPLESEAM SEWING-IVEAGHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 25, 1920.

Application filed July 30, 1918. Serial No. 247,383.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT H. "Wins, a citizen of the United States, residing at Nyack, in the county of Rockland and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Triple-Seam ewing-lviachines, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to sewlng niachines, one of the primary objects of the invention being to provide an improved machine for making triple seams, in which improved means are provided for folding the edge of the work into spaced parallel relation with the main body of the work, trimming the folded edge, and infolding such edge thereby to provide a triple seam,

. which seam when formed from two thickto get out of order.

The present invention is an improvement in part upon that shown and described in the T-lughes Patents Numbers 1,075,-i22 and 1,232,315 for triple seam sewing machines.

The practical experience gained by the use of the Hughes inventions in the trade has led to the present inipro ements and in consequence a much superior mechanism is hereby produced which is much simpler in construction, more durable in. operation, easier for the operator to handle, and is capable of handling a wider range and variety of work. The present improvement provides a very compact, highly perfected mechanism for making triple seams capable, because of its compact arrangement, of use for such work as setting sleeves in shirtwaists as well as setting the yoke pieces in shirtwaists and night gowns, the portions of which may comprlse heavy embroidered sections with the resultant seams and at each side of which clusters of gathers made by rufiling and tucks may be formed as well as the seaming of sleeves of house dresses and tub dresses wherein the cuff portions are doubled upon themselves making the seams very bulky and diflicult to handle.

in order to accomplish the foregoing character of work, a very flexible mechanism is necessary to accommodate these varying thicknesses of materials so as to uniformly fold the same and properly stitch it in a uniform manner. Some of the kinds of work outlined above were diflicult to handle with the mechanism shown in the Hughes patents because of the long presser foot necessary to that construction and also because of the location of the trimming mechanism disposed at some distance from the needle, while the infolders and gripper parts were so arranged that the heavy seams at times would clog at the needle and damaged and defective work result. This clogging would also cause skipping of the stitches and breaking of the parts. This is entirely overcome in the present improvement, as it will be observed that I have eliminated many parts including the guides and certain portions of the presser foot, greatly shortening its length and width, eliminating entirely the top feed mechanism and portions of the yoke for the top feed infolder and certain mechanism as used in connection with the seam clamp or gripper, as well as many parts connected with the trimming mechanism with the result that a much lighter construction capable of higher speed and greater flexibility is obtained.

In the Hughes Patent No. 1,075,422 the structure was as follows: A long, wide feed and presser foot were used. The vertically cutting trimmer knives were arranged adjacent to the front of the presser foot and remote from the needle, such trimmer knives being located well to the right of the stitching line so that the material to be seamed was pushed along the edge thereof, the edges then passed to a scroll folder or guide which turned the cut edge up and over the top of the presser foot. The lateral pusher then acted upon the folded edge to further push it to the left and a gripper co-acting therewith to press the edge downward to present it to the infolder which folded such lateral projecting it to the left of the line edge under from the left to the right where such edge was fed underneath the rear of the presser foot at the stitching position.

In the Hughes Patent No. 1,232,315 the structure was as follows: in front of the presser foot were located edge formers to give the initial fold to the material as it passed underneath the upturned front end of the presser foot which was also of considerable length and width. In this machine the trimmer was located so as to cut in a horizontal plane, therefore it was necesary to make the initial fold in the goods in such way that the goose would be fed into the machine with its edges to be cut in a vertical plane or at right angles to the main portion of the goods as it was fed by the presser foot and feed. This trimmer was also located remote from the needle, substantially one inch therefrom to give working space for the seam gripper and the infolder. The cut edge as it passed from the trimming knives was folded laterally by the seam gripper and such laterally proj ecting portion was in turn folded under by the infolder over the top of the presser foot and underneath the spring tongue where it was guided to the needle and from ti nce it was fed underneath the top feed foot and carried from the machine. In that machine the top feed foot acted as a puller while the infolder acted as a pusher, the infolder acting upon the seam above the foot and the back top pulling feed acting upon the seam along one side of the foot in the rear of the needle, while the main feed acted upon the goods under the foot to feed the worlr through the machine.

In the present improvement I do not employ a top pull feed and the presentimprovement consists of a simple attached to the cloth plate in front of the presser foot to give the initial half turn fold to the goods so that the edge thereof will feed over the front of the presser foot and the front guiding portion of the presser foot tongue. A verti al trimming mechanism, located to c .t at the left of the needle line is arranged very close to the needle and co-acts with a knife carried by the presser foot. This trimmer cuts the irregular edge from the goods and deflects of stitching, while the cutter tenls to force the cut edge down ward into a slot in the foot wherein the top lrnife operates. Such cut edge is then fed to the gripper which tends to further force the cut edge downward on the presser foot tongue so that such cut edge projecting at the left of the needle is acted upon by the infolder to fold it under the presser foot tongue and feed it by a pushing action in the direction of the line of feed close to the needle so that a very narrow, uniform edge may be produced and so that the folded edge will be accurately stitched even when feeding very bunchy or irregular portions of the worlr, such as seams, tuclrs or embroidered portions. After the same is stitched it is fed along underneath the auxiliary foot as it passes from the machine.

dome of the advantages of the present improvement are:

The pressor foot is of smaller size and weight, and is so shaped as to cooperate with the various elements in the formation of the triple seam; a very small and durable trimming mechanism is used, the stationary knife acting as a deflector for the trimmin x, while the actuating knife not only cuts, but is a depressing or folding member assists in the folding of the seams. The presser foot tongue being made of flexible material is arranged so to act as a guide to the untrimmed edges of the work while the rear portion of the tongue which projects close to the needle acts as a guide for the trimmed edges of the work so as to guide it uniformly to the needle. The seam clamping member is flexibly connected to the other parts of the machine so that it may have a rising and falling movement with the presser foot and a variable griping motion, such motion being imparted thereto by a portion of the looper mechanism and in such a manner that there is an extended dwell of the gripping member upon the work, its action being such that it is released from the work only while the feeding of the work takes place, while the flexible control thereof is such as to enable the gripper to accommodate itself to varying thicknesses of seams. The seam infolder is located and mounted at the right of the needle line a suitable distance above the cloth plate line so that its movement will be such as to properly cooperate with the presser foot and the tongue carried thereby as well as to co-act with the seam clamper and to have longitudinal movements in contrast to the rocking movement transverse to the line of seam, its organization being such that the rising and falling movements of the infolder are the same as that of the presser foot so that the transverse movements thereofwill not be changed by such vertical rising and falling movements. The feed dog is also reduced in size to correspond with the presser foot and this also results in an improved action upon the work, esoecially in feeding curved seams with either inside or outside curves. The shor ening of the feed and foot greatly facilitates the ending up of a circular seam such as sewing the sleeves in to garments wherein the beginning of the seam must feed through the rear of the foot around. to and into the front of the stitching positlOl to have the seam uniform from end to en The presser foot is rigidly supported yet easily disconnected from its holding member. Means are provided to support it rigidly so that there will be no lateral swing thereof. This is very important because one of the trimmer knives is carried by the foot while the other is carried by the trimmer frame located and supported independently of the presser foot. To accomplish the required rigidity the machine frame is provided with a bushing carrying a lateral, downwardly projecting guide portion which coacts with the presser foot and infolding mechanism in such a way as to permit it to have vertical rise and fall movements, yet be held rigidly against side movement under the thrust caused by the actuation of the infolder, seam gripper and trimming members.

Tn the drawings accompanying and forming part of this specification, Figure 1 is a front view showing a portion of a sewing machine with my improvements applied thereto; Fig. 2 is a left hand end view of what is shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the seam forming mechanism shown in Fig. 2, the section being taken on the line 3--3 Fig. 2 with the needle bar omitted clearly to show the parts of theipresser foot at the stitching position; Fig. 4- is a perspective view of the guide bracket for the presser foot, infolder and gripper; Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the gripper; Fig. 6 is a sectional View of the actuating knife clamp, the section being taken on the line (3-6 of Fig. 7 Fig. 7 is a side View of the actuating trimmer knife, its lever and holding bracket and connections; Fig. 8 is a detail view of the infolder and seem gripper showing a portion of the presser foot, throat plate and 'feed dog;'

Fig. 9 is a view similar to Fig. 8, showing the parts in another position; Fig. 10 is a detail iew of the seam gripper infolder and feed dog guiding wall and illustrates the goods partly folded; Fig. 11 is a view similar to Fig. 10 showing the goods completely folded; Fig. 12 is a perspective view of the stationary knife carried by the presser foot; Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the presser foot; Fig. 1a is a perspective view of the presser foot tongue; Fig. is a perspective view of the auxiliary presser foot; and Fig. 16 is a detail view of the gripper actuating means.

Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures of the drawings.

Generally the base plate 1 of the machine carries the vertical arm 2, and the gooseneck or overhanging portion which carries the needle bar bearings. The needle lever 4 operates on a stud 5 and may be actuated by the usual hand-wheel and eccentric con nection (not shown). The main shaft 6 dle 14:. The needle mechanism will have the usual reciprocating motion imparted thereto by the needle lever A} or any other of the well known means for operating the same. Cooperating with the needle 14: is a looper 15 to properly form the stitches. The looper is reciprocated by a rod 16 which is connected as at 17 to the end 18 of the needle lever 4 for reciprocating the looper into and out of the needle loops. The stitch mechanism is also of the well known Metropolitan construction.

In the present improvement a guide bushing 20 is carried by the presser foot bar hearing 11.- This bushing is provided with an enlarged portion 21, (see Figs. 1 and 2) and this enlarged portion projects laterally to the right and is provided with a groove 22 registering with a tongue 23 on the gooseneck, and which prevents axial movement of the bushing 20 in the bearing 11, and is also provided with a downwardly projecting rectangular portion 24 for the purpose of guiding and giving lateral rigidity to the presser foot and its mechanism. The presser foot bar 10 is provided with a screw threaded end, which is secured in the threaded hole 25 of a guide bracket '26 (see Fig. 4) and this bracket is bifurrated as at 27 to receive the rectangular guide portion 24 and the walls thereof 28 and 29 are tapped as at 30 to receive adjusting screws and lock nuts 31 (see Fig. These screws have conical points which are seated. in guide plates 32. These guide plates slide up and down against the front and rear walls of the rectangular portion 24 and afliord a means of adjusting the guide bracket 26 with respect to the presser foot bar 10 so as to properly aline the presser foot and its other parts with the needle. This arrangement also provides means for taking up wear or overcoming lost motion, and facilitates the manufacture of the parts. The bracket 26 is provided with a bearing extending from front to rear for the infolder rock shaft 34. Adjacent to the front end of this hearing and spaced therefrom is a projecting portion 35 which is tapped at to receive a shoulder screw 37 upon which is pivotally mounted the seam gripper 38.

This seam gripper has a rearwardly projecting reduced portion 40 of concave or convex cross section. The concaved portion coacts with the presser foot tongue and the operates in the bearings 7 and 8 and any of" convexed portion coacts with the infolder. The front end of the gripper is rounded out at 41 to facilitate the entrance of the seams. The neck portion 42 is arranged to permit the guide wall 43 carried by the feed dog 44 to operate therein. A stud 45 carried by the gripper is drilled at 46 to receive one end of a spring 47, the other end of which is secured to a post 48 secured to the machine base 1 (see Fig. 1). This spring gives movement to the gripper in one direction. The presser foot 49 (see Fig. 13) comprises a right angled portion 86, a feeding portion 50 having a circular cut-out portion at 51 wherein the infolder operates, a reduced portion 52 wherein the stationary knife 53 (see Fig. 12) is seated and held by screws 54, passing through slots 55 into the tapped holes 56. Adjacent to the knife seat is a vertical slot 57 wherein the movable knife 58 operates. This slot has inclined walls 59 and 60 and an outside wall 61. The front of the foot is rounded at 62 and has a flattened top 63, tapped at 64 to receive screws which fasten the tongue 66 (see Fig. 14) to the presser foot. The end 67 of this tongue is bent downward so as to lie close to the thin portion 68 of the presser foot in front of the needle position indicated by 69. T he front overlapping portion 70 of this presser foot tongue is bent at an angle as at 71 to the main portion of the tongue 72 so as to facilitate folding of the goods as it passes into the machine. The presser foot has a vertical slot 73 at the rear, the opposed walls of which are drilled as at 74 to receive a pin 7 5 (see Fig. 2) passing through slot 7 6 of the auxiliary presser foot 77 (see Fig.

15). This auxiliary presser foot has an upturned toe 78 and a shank portion 7 9. The width and shape of the shank portion is such as to fit in to the slot 73 to permit rocking and vertical movement of the auxiliary presser foot therein. The object of this foot is to feed the chain of stitches from the machine when there is no work under the foot and to prevent the main portion of the foot acting upon the chain of stitches or along the line of seam which would have a tendency to cut the more delicate fabrics and the stitching thereof when the machine is operated at speed. .To maintain the proper cooperation of this auxiliary foot with the main feed I have provided a spring 80 (see Figs. 1 and 2) which rests in a groove 81 of the guide bracket 26 and is adjustably secured therein by a screw 82. This spring is provided with one or more coils 88 and its free end 84 rests upon the top wall 85 of the auxiliary foot and this top wall is arranged parallel to the bottom of the presser foot so that the spring resting upon the same tends to hold it in parallel relation to the feed surface. When any irregularities pass under it is capable of a rocking motion to accommodate such conditions and the pressure of this foot is dependent upon the tension of the spring and the adjustment of the foot with relation to the main foot.

it may appear that the foot would be necessar to compensate for the seam thicknesses on account of the seam being three times the thickness of the main portion of the goods, but such is not the case. When the triple seam is properly formed the gripper and infolder acting upon it close to the needle insures the feeding of the seam smoothly through the machine without difficulty. While the auxiliary foot assists slightly in feeding the goods, the proper formation of the seam and feeding of it through the machine is not dependent thereon, but as before stated the auxiliary foot is very desirable in feeding the chain of stitches and to prevent the same from being cut by the feed under the pressure of the main foot. Without the auxiliary foot it is desirable to either groove the feed or provide a slight groove in the presser foot. @ne right angled wall portion 86 of the presser foot 49 clamps against the face 87 of the bracket 26 and is attached thereto by the screw 88 (see Fig. 3) passing into the tapped hole 89 (see Fig. 4), while the other wall 90 is clamped against the face 91 of the bracket 26 by a screw 92 and the tapped hole 98. This bracket 26 is provided with an adjusting screw 94 tapped into the top corner thereof so that it will overlap the junction of the right angled portions to form a slight vertical adjustment of the presser foot with respect to the bracket. That is to say the screw, when properly adjusted, insures that the cut-out portion 51 of the presser foot is in proper working relation with the end of the infolder and it is important that such adjustment be maintained. When the presser foot is removed and replaced this adjusting screw facilitates the resetting of it. it also aids greatly in getting the close adjustment between these parts for the different thicknesses or kinds of fabrics. The infolder mechanism comprises the rod 95 connected at 96 to the needle lever 18 by a ball and socket joint. The other end 97 is connected by a similar joint to the 98 of the infolder 99. This arm 98 is provided with a hub for the rock shaft 34 to which is secured a curved infolding end 100 having teeth 101 so as to co-act with the goods and project it under the tongue 88. The rear end of the rock shaft 34 is reduced in diameter and threaded at 102.

A. spring washer 103 is carried by the reduced end of the shaft abutting against a shoulder thereof. forked actuating member 104 straddles the reduced end of the shaft and co-acts with the spring washer on one side and a nut 105 on the other so as to regulate and control the end play of the eena is shaft. This fork 10s terminates in an enlarged portion 106 which is screwed to the side of the feed bar so as to partake of its regular feeding movements. By tlns connection with the feed bar the shaft is given an endwise movement in the bearing 33 of the bracket 26 and by reason of the infolders connection with the needle lever through the rod 95 it is F611 a rocking or swinging movement transverse to the line of feed so that the end 101 of the infolder acting in the recess or cut-out portion 51 of the presser foot moves upward, downward and inwardly so as to take the end of the eg'oods under in the formation of the seam and when in this position push and feed the goods directly to the needle. When the needle penetrates the goods the infolder withdraws from the seam instantly. As it is withdrawing therefrom the grippe or clamping member 38 grips the goods upon the presser foot tongue 66 so as to securely hold it and prevent it withdrawing with the action of the infolder.

The actuating means for the cloth gripper comprise a member 107 (see Fig. 16), carrying a pad 108 comprised of resilient material, such as leather or fiber, which may co-act with the stud 45 to rock the gripper on the shoulder screw 37. The actuating member comprises the clamp 109 adjustably secured at 110 to the looper rod joint 111 which is carried by the shoulder screw 112 carried. by the looper rocker and actuated by the rod 16, the movement an d relation of the parts being such that the looper rod moves a considerable distance before the member 107 contacts with the stud 45 to actuate the cloth gripper. l n other words adjustment is provided so that the time and extent of movement of the cloth gripper may be regulated by the means shown.

The usual feed dog 44- carries a side plate or wall 43 which extends through the throat plate .13 sufficiently above the top of the food dog to limit the lateral movement of the goods in the formation of the seam while the infolder is acting thereon. lt will be understood that the distance this side plate is adjusted from the needle regulates and letermines the width of the seam produced by the machine and if it be desirable to make a wider seam it is necessary to shift the side plate to suit. it is always desirable to have the stitching near the left hand edge of the seam as i possible and yet have the needle penetrate the several folds of cloth. course the seam can be widened to the left without changing the plate but in that event the left band edge of the folded portion of the seam will project a corresponding amount from. the line of the stitching.

The threat plate 113 carried and supported by the usual cloth plate 114 which may be cut away or reduced at the right of the stitching position to facilitate the threading, oiling, and adjusting of the machine.

an edge guide or half turn hemmer is secured to the cloth plate at 115 and by means of suitable elongated slots this half turn hemmer may be adjustable laterally. Such hemmer comprises an overhanging portion 116 so as to give the initial fold to the goods as indicated by 117 (see Fig. 3). The overhanging portion 116 may overlap the front end of the presser foot so as to control the initial fold of the goods and properly present it to the trimmer and the overlapped portion of the presser foot tongue is located under eath but slightly in advance of the overhanging portion of the half turn hemmer. This prevents the goods from folding or curling and presents the edges of the goods t the knives in a flat condition. The trimming mechanism consists of an eccentric 11S carried by the main shaft and operates the connection 119. This connection extends downwardly and connects with a piston 120 which is pivotally conected at 121 to an arm 122 (see Fig. T) of the trimmer lever 123, pivoted at 12 1 to the trimmer bracket 125 for rocking movements thereon. The piston may be connected and disconnected from the connection 119 by a latch 126 which is also pivoted at 121 and has a hooked end 127 (see Figs. 2 and 7) hooking over a pin (not shown) carried by an adjustable collar 1%) clamped on the 00 connection 119 by a clamp screw 130. The trimmer bracket 125 carries pins 131 at each side thereof said pins coacting with the latches 132 pivotally secured at 133 to the side walls of the trimmer bracket 134- for 105 connecting and disconnecting the trimmer frame to the bracket. The lateral position of the trimmer frame with respect to the trimmer bracket is controlled by adjustable plate 135 (see Fig. 1) which 110 is secured to the trimmer bracket. The trimne, lever 123 extends upwardly and lv having a curved nor '.on 136 and a inwai lateral curved portion 137 (see 2 and terminating at its end in knife seat 138 to receive the shank 139 of a knife 58. To facilitate the clamping of this knife shank l have provided swinging clamp 140 (see Fig.- 6) pivoted at M1 to the lever. The knife is clamped in position by a screw 1 12 and mav be adjusted vertically therein. This lr its is provided with a beveled cutting edge arranged at an angle to the plane of the knife so that the point 14A is always in co-active relation with the vertical wall 1415 of the stationary knife 53. The cutting edge of the stationary knife is represented by 14:6. The trimmer lever 123 in .y be adjusted laterally to and from the stationary knife by means of a screw bushing 14'? and a lock nut let-8 for securing it in position. This bushing contacts with the hub 149 of the trimmer lever.

From the foregoing it will be seen that I have provided a mechanism for forming and stitching triple seams wherein the trimming mechanism may be readily detached from the machine and replaced by the. simple manipulation of the latches for clamping it in position, the removal of which facilitates greatly the adjusting and caring for of the machine, and at times it may be desirable to substitute one trimmer for another and by the arrangement shown the trimming mechanism as well as the gripper and infolder and needle are in close proximity to one another, which is highly essential for the rapid handling and convenient control of the work. The location and disposal of the various parts are such as to not interfere in any way with the hands of the operator in the manipulation of the work to and from the stitching mechanism.

It will be observed that by means of the present improvement the first fold is one in which the folded portion is laid in substantial parallelism with the body of the fabric or work while the infold is one in which a part of this fold is laid between the first fold and the fabric or body of the work and therefore the terms folding and infolding as used in claims 2-9 to 36 are intended to mean this form of folding.

The various details may be more or less changed without departing from the spirit or scope of the present improvement.

I claim as my invention:

1. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot, a folder supported independently of said presser foot for folding over an edge of the work, a trimmer partly supported by said presser foot for trimming the folded over edge of the fabric after it leaves the folder, and feeding mechanism for engaging the folded over edge and feeding the same through the folder.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot, a folder supported independently of said presser foot for folding over an edge of the work, a trimmer partly supported by said presser foot for trimming the folded-over edge of the work after it leaves the folder, said trimming mechanism including a member fixed to the presser foot and a member supported independently of the presser foot, and feeding mechanism for feeding the work.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot, a folder supported independently of said presser foot for folding over an edge of the work, a trimmer partly supported by said presser foot for trimming the folded over edge of the work after it leaves the folder, said trimming mechanism including a member carried by the presser foot, and a member supported independently of the presser foot, and feeding mechanism for feeding the work, said feeding mechanism including a main feed dog and an upper feed member comprising an infolder adapted to engage the work after it leaves said first folder.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot therein, a folder supported independently of the presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, and means cooperating with said tongue and effective to feed the work from the folder.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, a folder supported independently of the presser foot, a fixed resilient tongue carried by the presser foot, and means cooperating with said tongue for feeding the folded edge of the work through the folder.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, a folder supported independently of the presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, means cooperating with said tongue for feeding the folded edge of the work through the folder and comprising a movable infolder, and means for shifting it transversely of the line of feed.

In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, a folder supported independently of the presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, means cooperating with said tongue for feeding the folded edge of the work through the folder, and trimming mechanism partly carried by the presser foot for trimming the folded edge of the work as it leaves the folder and including a n'iiotvable knife operating in said vertical s o 8. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot formed therein, a folder supported independently of the presser foot, a fiXed tongue carried by the presser foot, means cooperating with said tongue for feeding the folded edge of the work through the folder, and trimming mechanism including a fixed member car ried by the presser foot and a movable member supported independently of the presser foot and cooperating with the fixed member to trim the edge of the work after it leaves the folder.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face, a folder mounted in advance of said presser foot for receiving and folding over an edge of the work, a fiXed tongue carried by the presser foot, means for engaging the folded-over edge after it leaves the folder, and trimming mechanism for trimming said folded-over edge after it leaves the folder.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination, of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face, a folder mounted in advance of said presser foot for receiving and folding over an edge of the work, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, means for engaging the folded-over edge after it leaves the folder, trimming mechanism for trimming said folded-over edge after it leaves the folder, said trimming mechanism comprising a fixed member secured in said recess of the presser foot, and a movable trimmer member supported independently of the presser foot and cooperating with said stationary member to trim the folded-over edge after it leaves the folder.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face, a folder mounted in advance of said presser foot, a fixed tonguecarried by said presser foot, a main feeding device, and a feeding device for engaging and feeding the folded-over edge through the folder in unison with said main feeding device.

12. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face, a folder mounted in advance of said presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by said presser foot, a main feeding device, a feeding device for engaging and feeding the folded-over edge through the folder in unison with said main feeding device, and means for actuating said feeding device transversely of and in line with the line of feed.

13. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its upper face, a folder mounted in advance of said presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, trimming mechanism in position to trim the folded edge of the work, and feeding mechanism for engaging and feeding the folded-over trimmed edge through the folder,

l-it. l'n a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot havi a vertical slot and a recess in its upper ace, a folder mounted in advance of such presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, said presser foot also having a recess in the rear thereof at its underside, and a yielding member mounted in said recess and adapted to engage the work.

15. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and a recess in its up per face, a folder mounted in advance of such presser foot, a fined tongue carried by the presser foot, said presser foot also hav ing a recess in the rear thereof at its underside, a yielding member mounted in said recessand adapted to engage the work, and a trimmer partly carried by the presser foot for trimming the folded-over edge as it leaves the folder.

16. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot having a vertical slot and arecess in its upper face, a folder mounted in advance of such presser foot, a fixed tongue carried by the presser foot, said presser foot also having a recess in the rear thereof at its underside, a yielding member mounted in said recess and adapted to engage the work, a trimmer partly carried by the presser foot for trimming the folded-over edge as it leaves the folder, and feeding mechanism including a feeding member for folding and feeding the folded-over edge through the folder.

1?. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot, means carried in advance thereof for folding over an edge of the work, a trimmer partly carried by the presser foot for engaging and trimming said folded-over edge as it leaves the folder, means whereby said trimmer may be rendered ineffective, feeding mechanism including an infolding means for engaging and feeding the work through the folder, and means whereby said infolding means may be raised with the presser foot.

18. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a cloth plate, a presser foot, a trimming device consisting of a pair of knives, one only movable with said presser foot, and a feeding device, and means for raising said presser foot, one only of said trimming knives and said feeding device above said cloth plate.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a cloth plate, a presser foot, a trimming device consisting of a pair of knives, one carried by said presser foot, a combined feeding and folding device, and means for raising said presser foot, one only of said trimming knives and said combined folding and feed ing device above the cloth plate.

20. Inv a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a folder for folding the material in advance of the stitch forming mechanism, a feeding device operating on the material after it has passed through the folder, said feeding device comprising an infolder and means for actuating it, a presser foot mechanism, and trimming mechanism, a part thereof carried by the presser foot and a part thereof supported independently of the presser foot mechanism.

21. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, a presser foot, a trimming device, a main feeding device, a supplemental feeding device, said presser foot having a tongue guide around which the work is folded, said main feeding device acting upon the work passing underneath the tongue guides and said supplemental feeding device cooperating with the tongue guide to fold the work and feed it, and said trimming device being located in juXtaposition to the tongue guide and acting upon the work prior to the folding thereof by said supplemental feeding device.

22. In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch forming mechanism, presser foot mechanism, a trimming device comprising a pair of cutters, one carried by the presser foot mechanism and the other supported independently thereof, a feeding device carried by the presser foot mechanism, whereby the presser foot, feeding device and that part of the trimming device carried thereby can all be raised simultaneously on the raising of the presser foot.

23. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means and including a sprin for moving the gripping means in one direction, and means for infolding the previously folded work.

24E, In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means and comprising a spring for moving the gripping means in one direction and positively acting means for moving it in the opposite direction, and means for infolding the previously folded work.

25. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means and including a spring for moving the gripping means in one direction and positively acting means for moving it in the opposite direction, looper mechanism to which said positively acting means is connected, and means for infolding the pre viously folded work.

26. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means and including a spring for moving the gripping means in one direction and positively acting means for moving it in the opposite direction, looper mechanism to which said positively acting means is connected, and means for infolding the previously folded work, the organization being such that the gripping means has an extended dwell upon the work.

27. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means, looper mechanism, said gripper actuating means being connected with the looper mechanism for operation thereby to grip the work, and means for infolding the previously folded work.

28. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means, looper mechanism, said gripper actuating means being connected with the looper mechanism for operation thereby to grip the work, and means for infolding the previously folded work, the connection of such gripper actuating means with the looper mechanism being such that there is a relative movement betweenthelooper mechanism and the gripping means.

29. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means and including a spring for moving the gripping means in one direction, and means for infolding the previously folded work, said infolding means comprising a movable member shiftable transversely of the line of feed.

30. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means and including a spring for moving the gripping means in one direction, and means for infolding the previously folded work, said infolding means comprising a movable member shiftable transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed.

31. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means, looper mechanism, said gripper actuating means being connected with the looper mechanism for operation thereby to grip the work, and means for infolding the previously folded work and comprising a movable member movable transversely of the line of feed.

82. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the work, gripping means, means for actuating said gripping means, looper mechanism, said gripper actuating means being connected with the looper mechanism for operation thereby to grip the work, and means for infolding the pre viously folded work and comprising a mov able member movable transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed.

33. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary means for folding the work, a variably acting gripping member for gripping the work, means for actuating said gripping member, and means for infolding the work.

34. lfn a sewing machine, the combination of stationary means for folding the work, a variably acting gripping member for grip ping the work, means for actuating said gripping member, and means for infolcling the work, said variably acting grippingmember having an extended dwell upon the work.

35. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary means for folding the work, a variably acting gripping member for gripping the work, means for actuating said gripper member and comprising a spring for actuating it in one direction and positively acting means for actuating it in an opposite direction, and means for infolding the work.

36. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary means for folding the work, a variably acting gripping member for gripping the work, means for actuating said gripping member and comprising a spring for actuating it in one direction and positively acting means for actuating it in an opposite direction, means for infolding the work, and looper mechanism, said positively acting means being connected with said looper mechanism.

37. In a sewing machine having driving mechanism, the combination of a stationary folder, presser foot mechanism, gripping mechanism and infolding mechanism carried by said presser foot mechanism and actuated from said driving mechanism, and trimming means comprising a movable knife and a stationary knife, the latter carried by the presser foot mechanism and the former supported independently thereof whereby it has no movement therewith.

88. The combination of a folder, a gripping member, an infolder independent of the folder, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, and a presser foot carrying one of said cutters, the other supported independently of movement of the presser foot.

39. The combination with driving mechanism of a stationary folder, a gripping member, an infolder actuated from said driving mechanism, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, and a presser foot carrying one of said cutters, the other supported independently of movement of the presser foot.

40. The tombination with driving mechanism of a stationary folder, a gripping member, an infolder actuated from said driving mechanism, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, and presser foot mechanism carrying said gripping member, infolder and one of said cutters, the other of said cutters being supported independently of movement of the presser foot mechanism.

ll. The combination of a stationary folder, a gripping member, an infolder supported for movement transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed during the normal operation of the machine, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, and presser foot mechanism carrying said gripping member, infolder and one of said cutters, the other supported independently of movement of said presser foot mechanism.

4-2. In a sewing machine having driving mechanism, the combination of folding m ns, trimming means comprising a knife ei" ,ctive to deflect the trimmings and a movable knife effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, and an infolder for folding the work andactuated from said driving mechanism.

43. In a sewing machine, the combination of folding means, trimming means comprising a knife effective to deflect the trimmings and a movable knife effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, and an infolder for folding the work, said infolder comprising a movable member movable transversely of the line of feed.

44,-. In a sewing machine, the combination of folding means, trimming means comprising a knife effective to deflect the trimmings and a movable knife effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, and an infolder for folding the work, said infolder comprising a movable member movable transversely of the line of feed and also with the feed.

45. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket secured to said bar, a presser foot carried by said bracket, means for guiding said bracket, means for taking up the play between said racket and its guiding means, and an infolder carried by said bracket.

46. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket secured to said bar, a presser foot carried by said bracket, means for guiding said bracket means for taking up the play between said bracket and its guiding means, and gripping means carried by said bracket.

47. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket secured to said bar, a presser foot carried by said bracket, means for guiding said bracket means for taking up the play between said bracket and its guiding means, and trimming means partly carried by said presser foot.

4?. In a sewing machine, the combination of presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting movement to said rock shaft, and means for oscillating said infolder.

e9. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting movement to said rock shaft, means for os illating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket andmeans for actuating it.

50. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket,

a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feed ing mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, means for oscillating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, looper mechanism, and means connected with said looper mechanism for actuating said gripper.

51. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, means for oscillating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, looper mechanism, means connected with said looper mechanism for actuating said gripper in one direction, and a spring for actuating said gripper in the opposite direction.

52. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft and movable transversely of the line of feed and also with the line of feed, feeding mecha nism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, means for oscillating said infolder, and trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, one movable with the presser foot.

53. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft and movable transversely of the line of feed and also with the line of feed, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, means for oscillating said infolder, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, one movable with the presser foot, a gripper pivotallysecured to said bracket, and means for actuating it.

5%. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft and movable transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, a needle lever, means connecting the infolder with the needle lever for oscillating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, looper mechanism, and means connecting the gripper with the looper mechanism for actuating the gripper.

55. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft and movable transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, a needle lever, means connecting the infolder with the needle lever for oscillating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, looper mechanism, means connecting the gripper with the looper mechanism for actuating the gripper in one direction, and a spring for operating the gripper in the opposite direction.

56. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket,

an infolder carried by said rock shaft and movable transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, a needle lever, means con necting the infolder with the needle lever for oscillating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, looper mechanism, means connecting the gripper with the looper mechanism for actuatingthe gripper, and trimming mechanism comprising a pair of cutters, one movable with the presser foot and the other supported for movement independently of said presser foot.

57. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by said rock shaft and movable transversely of the line of feed and also in the line of feed, feeding mechanism, means connected with the feeding mechanism for imparting endwise movement to said rock shaft, a needle lever, means connecting the infolder with the needle lever for oscillating said infolder, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, looper mechanism, means connecting the gripper with the looper mechanism for actuating the gripper in one direction, a spring for operating the gripper in the opposite direction, and trimming mechanism comprising a pair of cutters, one movable with the presser foot and the other supported for movement independently of said presser foot.

58. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said bracket, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket for movement in a vertical plane to; engage the top of the work, means for actuating the gripper, and means for folding the work after its engagement by the gripper.

59. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a presser foot carried by said.

bracket, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket for movement in a vertical plane to engage the top of the work, and means for actuating the gripper and including a spring attached thereto for actuating it in one direction and positively actuated means for operating it only in the opposite direction.

60. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket for movement in a vertical plane to engage the top of the work, needle mechanism including an actuating lever, and looper mechanism connected with said actuating lever and gripper for actuating the gripper.

61. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, needle mechanism including an actuating lever, looper mechanism connected with said actuating lever and gripper for actuating the gripper, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by the rock shaft, means for moving the rock shaft endwise, and means for moving the infolder transversely of the line of feed.

62/In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, needle mechanism including an actliiating lever, looper mechanism connected with said actuating lever and gripper for actuatingthe gripper, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by the rock shaft, means for moving the rock shaft endwise, means for moving the infolder transversely of the line of feed, and a stationary folder located at the front of said presser foot.

63. In a sewing machine, the combination of a presser foot bar, a bracket carried thereby, a gripper pivotally secured to said bracket, needle mechanism including an actuating lever, looper mechanism connected with said actuating lever and gripper for actuating the gripper, a rock shaft carried by said bracket, an infolder carried by the rock shaft, means for moving the rock shaft endwise, means for moving the infolder transversely of the line of feed, a stationary folder located at the front of said presser foot, and trimming mechanism partly car ried by said presser foot.

ea. In a sewing machine, the combination of presser foot mechanism including a presser foot, a fixed, nonmovable folding means for the work, and trimming mechanism including a pair of trimmers, one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof and movable in a vertical plane to cut the folded work in a vertical direction.

65. In a sewing machine, the combination of presser foot mechanism including a presser foot, trimming mechanism including a pair of trimmers, one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof, and independent means for folding and infolding the work.

66. In a sewing machine, the combination of presser foot mechanism including a presser foot, trimming mechanism including a pair of trimmers, one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof, and means for folding and infolding the work and comprising a stationary folder and a movable folder.'

67. In a sewing machine, the combination of presser foot mechanism including a presser foot, trinnning mechanism including a pair of trimmers, one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof, means for folding and infolding the work and comprising a stationary folder and a movable folder, and

' means for gripping the work and located to grip the work as the infolder releases the same.

68. In sewing machine, the combination of presser foot mechanism including a presser foot, trimming mechanism including a pair of trimmers, one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof, means for folding and infolding the work and comprising a stationary folder and a movable folder, and means for gripping the work and located to grip the work as the infolder releases the same, said gripping means and infolder being movable with the presser foot.

69. The combination ofpresser foot mechanism, folding means, gripping means, and infolding means independent of said folding means, the trimming mechanism comprising a pair of trimmers one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof and of the presser foot mechanism.

70. In a sewing machine, the combination of presser foot mechanism including a presser foot, trimming mechanism including a pair of trimmers, one carried by the presser foot and the other supported independently thereof, means for folding and infolding with the presser foot, and a movable knife supported independently of said presser foot and movable in a vertical plane to cut the folded work in a vertical direction, and effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work.

72. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary folding means, a presser foot, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, one carried by and movable with the presser foot, a movable knife supported independently of said presser foot and effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, and a movable infolder for folding the work and having a substantial movement during the normal operation of the machine. 73. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary folding means, a presser foot, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, one carried by and movable with the presser foot, a movable knife supported in dependently of said presser foot and effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, and an infolder for folding the work, said infolder comprising a movable member movable transversely of the line of feed. A

74. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary folding means, a presser foot, trimming means comprising a pair of cutters, one carried by and movable with the presser foot, a movable knife supported 1ndependently of said presser foot and effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, and an infolder for folding the work, said infolder comprising a movable member movable transversely of the line of feed and also movable withthe feed to assist in the feeding of the work.

75. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary folding means, a presser foot, trimming means compri ing a pair of cutters, one carried by and movable with the presser foot, a movable knife supported 1ndependently of said presser foot and nonmovable therewith and effective to depress and thereby assist in the folding of the work, an infolder for folding the work, said infolder comprising a movable member movable transversely of the line of feed and also movable with the feed to assist in the feeding of the work, and gripping mechanism located to grip the work as the infolder releases the same.

76. In a sewing machine, the combination earers of stationary folding means for partly folding the work, presser foot mechanism, an infolder, and trimming means partly carried by said presser foot mechanism and located between said stationary folder and infolder.

77. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary folding means for partly folding the work, presser foot mechanism, an infolder, trimming means partly carried by said presser foot mechanism and located between said stationary folder and infolder, and means for actuating said infolder transversely of the line of feed.

7 8. In a sewing machine, the combination of stationary folding means for partly folding the work, presser foot mechanism,- an infolder, trimming means partly carried by said presser foot mechanism and located between said stationary folder and infolder, means for actuating said infolder transversely of the line of feed, and means for also actuating said infolder with the line of feed thereby to assist in feeding the work.

7 9. The combination of a stationary folder, presser foot mechanism, an infolder carried by and movable with said presser foot mechanism, gripping means carried by and also movable with said presser foot mechanism, and trimming mechanism partly carried by said presser foot mechanism and operative between the stationary folder and infolder.

80. The combination of a stationary folder, presser foot mechanism, an infolder 100 carried by and movable with said presser foot mechanism, gripping means carried by and also movable with said presser foot mechanism, trimming mechanism partly carried by said presser foot mechanism and 105 operative between the stationary folder and infolder, and means for actuating the infolder transversely of the line of feed.

81. The combination of a stationary folder, presser foot mechanism, an infolder 110,

carried by and movable with said presser foot mechanism, gripping means carried by and also movable with said presser foot mechanism, trimming mechanism partly carried by said presser foot mechanism and operative between the stationary folder and infolder, means for actuating the infolder transversely of the line of feed, and means for actuating said infolder with the line of feed thereby to assist in the feeding of the work.

82. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism, and trimming means operating at the rear of the folder and partly carried by the presser foot mechanism and having a vertically movable cutting portion for trimming the work in a vertical direction after it is folded by said folder. 4

83. In a sewing machine, the combination foot mechanism for trimming the work after it is folded by said folder, an infolder, and means for actuating it transversely of the line of feed.

85. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism, trimming means partly carried by the presser foot mechanism for trimming the work after it is folded by said folder, an infolder, means for actuating'it transversely of the line of feed, and means for actuating it with the line of feed thereby to assist in the feeding of the work.

86. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism, trimming means partly carried by the presser foot mechanism for trimming the work after it is folded by said folder, an infolder independent of the folder, and gripping mechanism cooperating with the infolder.

87. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism including a presser foot having a circular cut-out portion, an infolder operating therein and independent of the folder, said presser foot having a reduced portion, a stationary knife seated therein, said presser foot also having a vertical slot, and a movable knife operating therein.

88. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism including a presser foot having a circular cut-out portion, an infolder operating therein, said presser foot having a reduced portion, a stationary knife seated therein, said presser foot also having a vertical slot, a movable knife operating therein, and a spring tongue secured to the presser foot and bent to lie close to a portion of the presser foot in front of the needle position. I

89. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism including a presser foot having a circular cut-out portion, an infolder operating therein, said presser foot having a reduced portion, a stationary knife seate d therein, said presser foot also having a vertical slot, a movable knife operating therein, a spring tongue secured to the presser foot and bent to lie close to a portion of the presser foot in front of the needle position, said presser foot also having a vertical slot at the rear thereof, and an auxiliary presserfoot located in said slot and effective to assist in feeding a portion of the work.

90. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism including a presser foot having a circular cut-out portion, an infolder opera-ting therein, said presser foot having a reduced portion, a stationary knife seated therein, said presser foot also having a vertical slot, a movable knife operating therein, a spring tongue secured to the presser foot and bent to lie close to a portion of the presser foot in front of the needle position, said presser foot also having a vertical slot at the rear thereof, an

auxiliary presser foot located in said slot and effective to assist in feeding a portion of the work, and gripping means effective to grip the work upon the spring tongue and hold it during the withdrawal of the infolder.

91. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, presser foot mechanism including a presser foot having a circular cut-out portion, an infolder operating therein, said presser foot having a reduced portion, a stationary knife seated therein, said presser foot also having a vertical slot, a movable knife operating therein, a spring tongue secured to the presser foot and bent to lie close to a portion of the presser foot in front of the needle position, said presser, foot also, having a vertical slot at the rear thereof, an auxiliary presser foot located in said slot and effective to assist in feeding a portion of the work, gripping means effective to grip the work upon the spring tongue and hold it during the withdrawal of the infolder, and a stationary folder overlapping the front end of the presser foot. y

92. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, a presser foot, a movable infolder, and trimming mechanism operating between the folder and infolder and com prising a trimmer blade readily thrown into and out of action. I

93. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, a presser foot and a movable infolder independent of the folder, and a trimming mechanism partly carried by the presser foot and including a blade readily detachable from the machine.

94. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, a presser foot and a movable infolder independent of the folder, and a trimming mechanism partly carried by the presser foot and including a blade readily detachable from the machine and also readily thrown into and out of action.

95. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, a presser foot, a movable infolder movable independently of thepres'ser foot; a shiftable gripping means, and a resilient member adapted to positively operate the gripping means.

96. In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, a presser foot, a movable in folder movable independently of the presser foot, a shiftable gripping means, a resilient member adapted to positively operate the gripping means, and trimming mechanism including a readily detachable trimming blade.

97 In a sewing machine, the combination of a folder, a presser foot, a movable in- 1 folder movable independently of the presser .compnsmg thrown 1nto and out of operation.

comprlsmg foot, a shiftable gripping means, a resilient member adapted to positively operate the and trimming mechanism gripping means,

' readily a trimming blade into a U-shaped condition with a space between such folded portion and the main body of the goods, means operating at the rear of the folder for trimming the folded 'edge after it. leaves said folder, and means for then infolding the so trimmed and folded edge.

100. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, the combination of a folder for folding the edge of the work, means operating at the rear of the folder for trimming the folded edge to the left of the line of stitches after it leaves said folder, and means for then infolding the so trimmed and folded edge.

101. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, the combination of a folder 1 for folding the edge of the work, means operating at the rear of the folder for trim-' ming the folded edge to the left of the line of stitches after it leaves said folder, means for gripping the so trimmed and folded edge, and means for then infolding the so trimmed and folded edge.

102. In a sewing machine, the combination of means for folding the edge of the work into a U-shaped condition with a space between such folded portion and the main body of the goods, means for trimming the so folded edge, means for then infolding the so trimmed and folded edge, the said infolding means being supported for movement transversely of the line of feed and also with the line of feed, and means for operating the infolding means.

103. Ina sewing machine having stitching mechanism, the combination of means for folding the edge of the work, means for trimming the so folded edge to the left of the line of stitches, means for then infolding the so trimmed and folded edge, the said infolding means being supported for movement transversely of the line of feed and also with the line of feed, and means for operating the infolding means.

104. In a sewing machine having stitching mechanism, the combination of means for folding the edge of the work, means for trimming the so folded edge to the left of the line of stitches, means for gripping the so trimmed and folded edge, means for then infolding the so trimmed and folded edge, the said infolding means being supported for movement transversely of the line of feed and also with the line of feed, and

1neans for operating the infolding means.

Signed at Nyack, county of Rockland and State of New York, this 25th day of July, 1918.

ALBERT H. WEIS.

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