US1209659A - Lasting and sewing machine. - Google Patents

Description

A. BATES & J. GOULDBOURN- LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 27. 19l4..

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A. BATES & J. GOULDBOURN.

LASTING AND SEWlNG MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 21.1914.

1 QQQ QWQ Patented Dec. 26, 1916.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- ARTHUR BATES AND JOSEPH GOULDBOURN, F LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOBS T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORA- TION OF NEW JERSEY.

LASTING AND SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 26, 1916.,

I Application filed March 27, 1914. Serial No. 827,595.

. To all whom it may concern:

' an in drawin s is a s ecification like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

' This invention relates to lasting and sewing machines and particularly to machines for lasting and sewing shoes having an outturned flange of upper to be permanently secured to the projecting margin of the sole, such shoes being commonly known asstitch-downs or Veldtschoen. A' machine of this class is shown and described in British Letters Patent granted to Arthur Bates, No. 4058 of 1912 and No. 15228 of 1912, to which ref-- erence may be had for a fuller description of the machine in general than is herein given.

In the machine of the patents referred to the margin of the outturned portion of-upper is seized by pincers and drawn over a work support, the work being held against the support by a presser foot acting on the tread face of the sole margin. The work is next penetrated by the awl and fed by lateral movement of the awl toward the needle. The presser foot is released during this movement and is again brought into clamping position after the feed movement of the work is completed to hold the materials together for the stitch forming operation.

It is desirable that the pull of the pincers shall be under control of the operator so that he may determine by even gradations the extent of the upper pulling movement imparted by the pincers in accordance with the re-' quirements of the work.

To this end'a feature of the invention is,

for a machine for working uppers over lasts in which the pincers have tensioning movements outwardly of the shoe and which 0perate step by step upon successive portions of upper along the edge of the last, the provisionof means under control of the operator'for varying by-even gradations during the operation of the machine the extent of outward pull imparted to the upper by the pincers. In a convenient construction in accordance with the present invention the mechanism for imparting the upper pulling movement to the pincers comprises a yield- -ingly operated machine element that is cou-,

pled to the pincers and has its movement l mited by a stop so as to determine the outer limit of the pulling stroke of the pincers. Th1s stop is movably mounted and means under control of the operator is operatively connected with the stop by which he may, during the operation of .the machine, shift the position of the stop, so that the movement of the spring operated machine element 1s arrested sooner or later, and consequently the pull of the pincers is shorter or longlgr accordmg to the requirements of the wor In Veldtschoen the margin of the upper,

which is turned outwardly at the forepart and shank portions, is usually turned inwardly at the heel portion of the shoe, but in certain kinds of Veldtschoen the margin of the upper is turned outwardly all around the sole margin. In lasting the latter kind of Veldtschoen it is desirable that the upper shall not be pulled by the pincers at the heel portion and it is accordingly an object of the invention to provide means for enabling the action of the pincers to be suspended when this portion of the shoe is reached.

As a feature of the invention, therefore, the pincers are given a movement away from the shoe and out of-operative position after their upper pulling movement has been varied progressively, and means under control of the operator is provided for suspending the action of the pincers when certain portions of the shoe are reached in the action of the machine upon the shoe or when otherwise desired. A convenient means for arresting the action of the pincers upon the upper is by removing them from the vicinity of the up or and this may be eifected by forming t e above mentioned spring-operated machine element in the form of a lever changing cam-may be formed on .the same part or otherwise arranged to move together, so that a single part, such as a lameo erated lever, may be used to control both cl them by connected devices which impart to the two cams successively their operative movements. In such a case, the cams will be so timed in relation to one another that the operator by moving the said single part may alter the upper pu ling stroke 0 the pincers and also by further or differently moving the said part may throw the pincers out of action. It has also been found desirable, in order to obtain the full eifect of the pulling or lasting action of the pincers, that the pincers be unimpeded in their action by the pressure of the presser foot upon the work during the tensioning movement of the pincers; and accordingly, as a feature of the invention the work is freed during the tensioning operation and preferably this is effected by releasing the pressure of the presser foot during the pulling movement of the pincers and reengaging the work to hold it firmly during the penetrating movement of the awl and while a stitch is being formed therein. Preferably, and as usual, the presser foot is again released during the feed of the work and is maintained in clamping engagement with the work during those portions of the cycle in which the work is being neither tensioned nor fed.

A convenient embodiment of the presentinvention will now be described as applied to a machine of the kind disclosed in the atents before mentioned, but it is to be unerstood that the invention is not to be considered as limited to the particular construction described but that it may be embodied in other constructions without departing from the spirit of the invention.

In the drawings,Figure 1 is a side View, partly in section, showing particularly the pincers and their operating mechanism; Fig. 2 is a similar view on a different plane showing particularly the presser foot and its operating mechanism; Fig. 3 is a detail view of the pincer. stroke changing mechanism;

and Fig. 4 is a detail view of the knee lever and its connections.

The machine comprises a base 2 on which is secured a head 4 on which is mounted a work rest 6 arranged to extend into the angle or crease between the side of the last and the projecting margin of the sole. Pincers 8, 10, for seizing the up er and pulling it about the last an around the said work I support are provided, and a stitching mechanism comprising an awl 12, needle 14, presser foot 16, thread lifter l8 and looper 20, is provided for securing the edge of the.

upper to the projecting mar in of the sole. A cam 22 upon the main shaf chine is operatively connected with the pincers 8, 10 so as to cause them to grip the upt 24 of the mathat forms part of the pincers and its other end' pivotally connected with a block 30 that is mounted to slide upon a rod 32 'opera- 3 tively connected with the cam 22 on the main shaft 24. The block 30 is moved yieldingly in the direction that causes the lever to draw the pincers rearwardly, by a spring 34 which surrounds the rod and bears at one end against the block and at the other against an adjusting nut 36 threaded upon the rod.

A stop 38-is provided that by engaging the lower extremity of the lever 26 limits the rearward or upper pulling movement of the I pincers. a

In'the use of the machine it is found that better results are obtained if the upper is pulled by. the pincers to different extents at diderent parts of the shoe, for example it is found that more pulling of the upper is nec-v r essary when rounding the toe portion of the shoe than at other portions. In accordance with the present invention means is therefore provided to enable the operator.

readily and progressively to vary the pulling stroke of the plncers during the operation of the machine and to this end, in the construction herein described, the stop 38 aforesaid instead of being locked in adjusted position in the machine frame,,as in the prior constructions, is adapted to slide therein and is provided with means for shifting it to vary the rearward movement of the pincers. that is mounted in guideways in the machine frame 4 so as to be capable of sliding vertically therein. Formed in the plate is a cam slot 54 which receives a stud or roll 56- mounted upon the-lower end of a lever 58 that is pivoted about midway between its ends upon the machine frame at 60. The

This means comprises a plate 50 hole in this block the rear end of the stop 38 above mentioned is screwed. The stop slides loosely in its seat 64 in the machine frame so as to prevent binding of the parts.

The above described arrangement is such that when the plate is at the lower limit of its travel the stop is withdrawn to its miximum distance from the end of the lever that operates the pincers so that the pincers will be allowed to have their maximum rearward or upper pulling movement, and as the plate is raised the stop will be moved toward the said lever to shorten the rearward motion of the pincers.

. provided, in the construction herein To raise and lower the plate 50 .theredis escribed, a lever 70 that is adapted to be actuated. by the knee of the operator. This lever which is pivoted at 72 to the machine frame about midway between its ends, has

at its rear end a socket into which a stem 7 6' projects. A second stem 7 8 secured to or formed integral with the first-named stem and located at right angles to it enters a socket in one arm 80 of an elbow lever pivoted at- --82 upon the machine frame. The other arm 84 of the elbow lever is forked to receive a connecting rod 88'to which it is attached by a pin 86. The upper end of the rod 88 is connected by a joint '90 to the lower end of therplate fiO aforesaid; To limit the movement of the'knee-operated lever 70 two stops -92, 94, Fig. 4, are provided upon the ma- -"chine frame,*one oneither'side of thelever, v and either or both of these stops may consist" of a pin 94 arranged to be inserted in any one of a series'of holes formed in themachine frame, so that the limits of the movement. of the lever may be adjustably predetera mined.

. forms the hearing about whichthe pincer-.

In orderthat the knee-operated lever may .be retained in the positions into which it has been moved by the operator, the lever has screwed upon or otherwise secured to it on its lower side a plate 96, Fig. 1,, which has a series of recesses formed init. These re- 'cesses are adapted to be engaged by a spring plunger 98 that is mounted in the machine frame below the plate and has a conical head that is adapted to snap into whichever recess ismovedoverit..v

As hereinbefore'explained, it is necessary occasionally. to suspend the action of the pincers upon the work during the operation of the machine. To this "end, in the construction herein 'described,- the. plate 50 aforesaid is provided with a second cam slot-100 which receives a roller,,102 mounted upon one arm 104 of an elbow lever. that is pivoted to the machine frame at '106, the other arm 108 .of the leverbeing connected by a link 110 with an eccentric sleeve 112, Figs. 1 and 3, that is mounted upon a rod...

114 in the machine frame. This sleeve operating lever 26 swings, the arrangement being such that when the plate 50, is liftedtoits upper limit the elbow lever 104, 108,

will be turned upon its/pivot and by its connection with the sleeve 112 will rotate it upon theshaft 114 so as to move'the lower endof the pincer-operating lever rearwardly and withdraw the shoe upper.

It will be noted from the foregoihg'that' upward movement of the plate throws into action the mechanism which renders. the pincers moperative and as this movement of the plate also moves the stop aforepincers out of reach of the said toward the pincer-operating lever the cam slot that moves the stop is provided with an additional upper branch which after the plate has moved up to about the central point of its travel'begins'to draw the stop 38 rearwardly so that it maynot interfere with the rearward movement of, the lower end of-the pincer-operating lever 26 due to the tuming of the sleeve 1 12. In order that the movements of the plate 50 to alter the upper pulling movement of the pincers may not throw into action the mechanism for suspending their operation, the slot 100 that engages the roller 102 r on the hell-crank.

lever 104 is provided with an'upr ight portion which when the roller is traveling in it imparts no movement to the elbow lever.

In the operation of the machine the oporator will. present the shoe to the machine I i in position for the pincers to seize the upper and for the "sewing devices to secure the upper and sole together. As the lasting and sewing progress along the sole edge, the operator, by means-of theknee-operated lever 70, will shift the vertically slidingplate 50 .to alteras required the upper pulling movement of the pincers. When operating upon pincers is not desired at the heel portion the operator, on arriving at that portion,

will swin the lmee-operated lever a dis- 1 a stitch-down in which the action of the l tance su cient to raise the plate to'its tions above described, will retract-the stop 38 to its rearmost limit and will move the pivot 'of the pincer-operating lever rear- Wardly, causing the pincers to be moved out of range of the upper and bringing the lower end of the pincer-operating lever into engagement with the stop so'thati the said lever will have no movement imparted to it,

highest extent. This, through the connecthe action of the cam on the main shaft merely compressing and releasing the spring 34 through which force trans} mitted from it to thelever.

. -Further novelty resides in the press er foot operating mechanism. By this inven tion, the presserfoot is released during that portion .of the cycle when the pincers is given its upper tensioning movement, and,

hence, the full effect of that movement upon the upper is secured. The presser foot 16 is formed on a lever 120, Fig. 2, fulcrumed at 122 and having at its rear end ratchet teeth 124 with which cooperates a springpressed locking pawl 126, Fig. 3, mounted on the machine frame; An arm 128 loose on the shaft 122 carries teeth 130 which cooperate with an operating pawl 132.. A rod 134 is pivoted to the rear arm of thelever 120 and passes through an ear 136 on the arm 128. On the rod 134 above the ear 136 is arranged a spring 138, 'the'tensio'n of' which is controlled by a nut 140. It will now be clear that upward movement of the arm 128 will be transmitted through the spring 138 to the presser foot 16. Movement of the arm 128 is effected by the operating pawl 132 mounted on a lever 142 which is fulcrumed to the machine head at 144 and carries a roll secured thereto at 146 which rides in a groove 148 of a cam block 150 on the main shaft 24 of the machine. With the parts in the position shown in Fig. 2, the forward or left hand end of the lever 142 is raised and the pawl 132 has engaged the teeth 130 and thrust the presser foot 16 into engagement with the work where it is held until the portion of the cam path 148 located between the points a. and b is reached, when the forward end of the lever is lowered to release the presser foot. The lever 142 not only releases the pressure of the pawl 132 upon the ratchet 130 but by its downward movement hits a tail on the pawl 126 which holds the presser foot locked in position upon the work, and disengages it from the teeth 124. lhe presser foot is then held to the work only by a light spring 152 which presses upwardly upon a frame 154 pivoted at 156 to the presser foot lever 120, see Fig. 2. This action of the cam 148 occurs at the time when the pincers has seized the upper and is pulling it toward the right in Fig. 1. At

this time the cam 22 has closed the pincers and forcing it toward the left to effect, through the spring 34, the tensioning of the upper. As soon as the tensioning movework holding position where it is held until ment by the pincers is completed, the point Z) of the cam path 148 is reached and the pawl 132 is again actuated to engage the teeth ,130 and force the presser foot into the point a of the cam path is reached when the presser foot is again released to permit feeding of the work by the awl 12 which, at that time, is given a lateral movement by actuation of an awl carrying slide 158, as is fully described in the patents referred to.

When the feed of the work is completed, the

point a? of the cam path 148 has been reached by the roll on the lever 142 and the presser foot is thereupon actuated to hold the work during the remainder of the cycle.

Having described our invention, what we claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:-

1. In a step-by-step type of lasting ma chine, the combination of pincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pull an upper, means for shortening the pulling stroke of the pincers, additional means for rendering the pincer movements ineffective, a single controller for said two means, and a lost motion connection between the controller and the second means to delay the operation of the latter while the first-mentioned means is op erated.

incense 2. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination of pincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pull an upper, of adjusting means for changing the pulling stroke of the pincers first by progressively shortening the stroke and thereafter by transferring both extremes of the stroke farther from the work.

3. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination with pincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and. pull an upper, of ad usting means for changing the pulling stroke of the pincers first by locating the point of termination closer to the work and later by locating the point of beginning more remote from the work.

4. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination of pincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize an upper and move in a plane substantially parallel with the plane of the shoe bottom to pull the upper, said mechanism including a lever and an actuator therefor, and meansfor shifting the fulcrum of the lever to withdraw the pincers along said plane from position to seize the upper.

5. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination with pincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pull an upper, of means for regulating the length of the pulling movement, means for changing the fulcrum of the pincers, and connected devices for imparting to said two means successively their operative movements.

6. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination with pincers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pull an upper, of a stop for regulating the length of the pulling movement, a cam and connections for operating the stop, means constructed and located for convenient actuation by one of the operators legs and adapted for adjusting the cam while the machine is running to shorten the pulling movement of the pincers, and additional means becoming operative to withdraw the pincers from operative relation to the work after the cam has reached the limit of its throw for shortening the pulling the operators legs whereby the operator can progressively limit the length of the pulling movements of the pincers in accordance with the requirements of difierent portions of the shoe, and additional means by which the pincers may be removed from position to seize the upper.

9. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination with pincers, and opcrating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pull an upper to prepare it to be fastened, of fastening mechanism to secure the upper, and means constructed and located for convenient actuation by one of the operators legs whereby the operator can progressively limit the pulling movement-of the pincers and if desired can discontinue the efl'ective operation of the pincers in accordance with the requirements of different portions of the shoe while the operators two hands are occupied in manipulating the shoe and the fastening mechanism is running to secure the upper whether or not it is pulled. I I

10. In a step-by-step type of lasting machine, the combination with incers and operating mechanism for causing the pincers to seize and pull an upper, of means constructed and located for convenient actuation by one of the operators legs whereby the operator can progressively limit, while the machine is running and his hands are occupied in manipulating the shoe, the length of the upper pulling movement effected by the pincers in accordance with the rplquirements of diiferent portions of the s oe.

11. In a machine of the class described, the combination of shoe resting means, pin cers arranged to tension the upper in a direction away from the resting means, and means under manual control for progressively varying the length of the tensioning pull of the pincers while the machine is in operation and adapted upon further actuation to withdraw the pincers out of operative position.

12. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination of pincers acting to seize and tension the up er about the last, a lever connected to the plncers, means comprising a resilient connection for operatingthe lever, a stop arranged in the path of movement of the pincers for arresting their movement away from the last, and. means for progressively varying the position of the stop while the machine is in operation.

13. In a machine for working an upper.

over a last, the combination of a .work support, pincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, resilient means through which the pincers are operated by power, a stop located in the path of the operating means in a position to arrest movement of the pincers in a direction laterally away from the last, and means under the control of the operator for progressively varying the position of the stop.

14. In a machine for working an upper overa last, the combination of pincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, an operating lever for the pincers, a stop mounted for sliding adjustment in the direction of the pincer movement and into the path thereof to arrest that movement, and manually controlled means to hold the stop in adjusted position.

15. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination of pincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, power means for operating the pincers to andfrom the work including resilient means through which the tensioning pull is effected, a stop mounted for movement in the same direction as the pincers for arresting their movement, and manually operated means movable at right angles to the movement of the stop for holding it against movement by the pincers.

16. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination of pincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, power means for actuating the pincers to and from the work including resilient means through which the tensioning pull is effected, a knee lever, a movable cam plate, connections between the knee lever and the cam plate, and a stop actuated by the cam plate to and from the path of the pincers to arrest their movement in varying positions relatively to the work.

17. In amachine for working an upper over a last, the combination with pincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, ower means for actuating the pincers to an from the work including resilient means through which the tensioning pull is efiected, a slidable stop for limiting their movement, a cam plate mounted for movement by the operator while the machine is running, and operating connections between the stop and the plate for holding the stop against movement by the pincers.

18. In a machine for working an upper over a last, the combination of pincers for seizing and tensioning the upper, a pincer lever for actuating the'pincers to and from the work including resilient means through which the tensioning pull of the pincers is effected, a knee lever, a movable cam plate,

connections between the knee lever and the cam plate, a stop actuated by the cam plate to and from the path of the pincers to arrest their movement in varying positions P relatively to the wet, Tania-amt for the pincer lever, ancl lconnectionsbetween thecaln plate and,,=th'e fulcrum for moving the-fulcrum when. the; knee lever is operated.

19. In a step-by step of lasting ma-- chine, the combination of pincers and oper-,

ating-mechanism for causing-the pincers to seize and pull the upper in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of the sole, the eccentric sleeve 112, and a knee lever and connections whereby the sleeve 112 may' be rotated'to move the pincers farther in. the;

direction of their tensioning movemerlt- 20. In a machine for lasting and sewing shoes, the combination of a work rest, pin.- new to some and tension the shoe upper, anv

awl to penetrate and feed the work, a needle operating through the hole made by the awl, a presser foot tohold the work during the .awl penetrating and sewing operations, and

means for releasing the presser foot during the tensioning operation.

21. A machine for lasting and sewing shoes, having, in combination, an awl feed includin fa" presser foot for clamping the margin 0 the sewing mechanism, means sole and upper of the shoe together during the penetrating stroke. of the awl and the stitch inserting and setting operations of the machine for lasting and sewing moaeea stitch-down shoes, having in combination,

- sewing-mechanism, work feeding means, a

work rest adapted to uphold the margin of an inverted shoe, pincers to seize and tension the upper over said rest, a presser and operating means therefor cooperating with 1 the rest to clamp the margin 0' thereby to form the upper in the angle bethe shoe and tween the sides of the last and the margin of the sole, means for releasing the presser during the tensioning action of the pincers,

and means for again releasing the presser during the feed of the upper. toward the sewin mechanism.

23. n a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing and work feeding means, upper tensioning means, work holding-means normally in action,- and means to relieve the grip of the work holding means twice ineach cycle of the machine, once during the operation of the tensioning means and again during the feed of the work.

24, In a step-by-steptype oflastingma chine, the combination with pincers and operatingmechanism for causing the 'pincers to seize andpull an upper, of ad usting .means for changing the pulling stroke of the pincers first by changing the point of.

termination of the stroke While the point of beginning remains unchanged and then upon further adjustment by locating the point of beginning farther from the work.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification in the presence of two subscribin witnesses.

A THUR BATES.

JOSEPH GOULDBQURN.

Witnesses Fnnnnmox WIILIAM WORTH, RICHARD ERNEST Gnrnmrn.

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