US1094707A - Ruffling and stitching machine. - Google Patents

Ruffling and stitching machine. Download PDF

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US1094707A
US1094707A US55294810A US1910552948A US1094707A US 1094707 A US1094707 A US 1094707A US 55294810 A US55294810 A US 55294810A US 1910552948 A US1910552948 A US 1910552948A US 1094707 A US1094707 A US 1094707A
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lever
arm
blade
presser
plate
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US55294810A
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Albert H De Voe
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Singer Co
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Singer Co
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/08Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for ruching, gathering, casing, or filling lace, ribbons, or bindings; Pleating devices; Cuttlers; Gathering feet; Crimpers; Curlers; Rufflers

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  • This invention relates to an improvement in that class of machines which are designed to effect the folding of the edges and the ruiiiing and stitching of continuous bands upon the bottoms of skirts, and for performing this class of work upon other circular articles, and it has for its object to provide convenient and effective means for adjusting the several coacting parts for efficient cooperation in the handling of the work and to facilitate the disengagement of certain of the work-engaging parts near the completion of a seam to enable the latter to be tinished at the starting point.
  • Figure 1 is a rear side elevation of a sewing machine embodying the present improvements
  • Fig. 2 a front end elevation of the same with the face-plate removed and the work-plate in section
  • Fig. 3 is a perspective view, upon a larger scale, showing the ruitiing and folding devices detached from other parts of the machine, with the presser-foot raised and the cooperating parts separated for introduction of the work
  • Fig. 4 is a similar view of certain of the same parts, taken from a diHerent view point.
  • Fig. 5 is a sectional plan view representing the adjustable connection between the swinging ruffling lever and its vibratory actuating arm
  • Fig. 6 a perspective view of the pointercarrying washer applied to such connection.
  • Fig. 5 is a sectional plan view representing the adjustable connection between the swinging ruffling lever and its vibratory actuating arm
  • Fig. 6 a perspective view of the pointercarrying washer applied to such connection.
  • FIG. 7 is a detail perspective'view of the clamping washer for one of the adjustable stop-members of the device.
  • Fig. S is a perspective view of the tape-guiding ⁇ presserfoot, and
  • Fig. 9 a similar view of the rutiling blade and its carrying arm.
  • Fig. is a perspective view representing the product of the machine with a portion thereof uncompleted.
  • the pressure member 10 of the presser-foot, opposed to the feed-dog 8, is pivotally attached, by means of the pin 11, to the shank 12 which is secured by means of the fastening screw 13 to the reduced lower end of the presserbar 14 mounted in the head 4 of the bracketarm and having its upper end engaged by the free end of the pressure spring 15 whose opposite end rests upon the top of the bracket-arm member 3 and is held in position by the steady-pin 16 thereon, pressure being maintained upon the top of the presser-bar by means of the adjusting screw 17 tapped into a lug 18 upon the arm 3 overhanging the spring 15 which is engaged by the point of said screw.
  • the upturned forward portion 19 of the presser-foot is formed with a tape-guiding channel 20.
  • the rock-shaft 30 carries near its forward end the hub 33 of a lateral arm 34 connected by means of the stud 35 with the upper end of a link 36 whose lower end embraces a stud 37 carried by a lateral arm 38 eXtending from a hub 39 which is fixed upon the rock-shaft 40 journaled in the lower portion of the head 4 of the bracket-arm beneath the rock-shaft 30.
  • the rock-shaft 40 has fixed upon its forward end a depending arm 41 formed with a longitudinal undercut guideway or channel Ll2 which is entered by the rectangular head 4:3 oit a coupling pin t-t having fitted upon its shank the loose bushing t5 with flange t6 resting upon the outer face of the arm stl.
  • the bushing Ll5 enters a central aperture in a slide-block 4J? fitted within a longitudinal slideway 48 in the rut lling lever ett) which is pivotally supported by means of the stud-screw 50 tapped into a lateral arm 5l having its hub 52 iixed upon the l'iilcriiin-pin 53 ournaled upon the head t of the bracket-arm and connected at its opposite end by means of the stud-screw 5lwith a split collar 55 adjustably secured by means ot clamp-screws 56 upon the presserbar lil.
  • rIlle vibrating ruilling lever i9 has at its lower end the rearwardly and downwardly projecting lug 57 entering the fork 58 at the rearward end of the rul'lling blade carrying arm 59 to which it is pivotally attached by means of the screw-stud 60.
  • yllhe arm 5. has at its it'orward or free end the lateral ear 6l formed in its under side with a longitudinal seat to receive the shank G3 o' the ruliling blade Gd serrated and sharpened at its forward end and having tapped in the upper side oi' its shank the fastening screw G5 passing through a longitudinal slot 6G in the ear (3l by i'neans ot which it is igoeayro?
  • the coupling pin ist has applied to its threaded outer end the internally threaded bushing G7 provided with the flange GS adapted to rest in contact with the outer end oit the bushing d5 and to overlap the slideblock 475 this bushing having its c 'flindrical body iitted within the split.
  • socket G9 oit a claniili-lever '.70 provided with ears il which are normally drawn together to clamp the lever upon the bushing ⁇ G7 by means ot a screw 72.
  • the bushing (S7 may be turned by the lever T0 in l*lamping and unclamping between the coupling pin head -z-li' and the liiisliiiig-tlange 46 the slotted outer portion ot the rocking arm Lil from which operative movements oi the rutliing lever dit) are derived.
  • the hub of the lever i() may obviously be clamped upon the bushing GT in such manner that when the bushing is tightened to clamp the coupling pin ist in pi tion upon the vibratory arm #il the lever H will lie in its rearward position where it least in the way of the operator, and this adjustment may be changed from time to time to conlpensate tor wear of the elaniping parts.
  • the arm 59 carries a lateral pin 73 formed in its upper side with a suitable cavity or pocket T #l1 to receive the lower extremity ot a threaded thrust-rod loosely journaled near the upper end in ar perforated ear iti upon the torward edge of the lever eti) and passing through an internally threaded slide-block 77 having in its rearward edge a f rfoove adapted to engage a guide-rib 'TS termed upon the forward edge oli the lever titl, a spring ⁇ 75X being interposed between the ear 7G and the block 7'? whereby a adjustalrier downward pressure is exerted upon the thrust-rod which is communicated to the pin 73 and thence through the arm 59 to the rutlling blade 611-.
  • collars Sl and S2 Fixed upon the messer-bar lll below the collar 55 by means of screws 7) and. SO are collars Sl and S2 provided respectively with forwardly extending bearing lugs 83 and Si having alined bearing apertures in whichare journaled the opposite end portions ot an oscillatory slide-rod 85 havi e; upon its lower end a radial wing S6 fitted within a lateral channel or recess 87 of the separatorcarrying arm SS adjustably secured to said wing by means or" a fastening screw S9 passing through a slot 90 in the latter and. tapjed into the arm S8.
  • 'lhe arm S8 is formed at its free outer end with a lateral flange or supporting plate '91 a-tliording a seat upon which is secured by means of the fastening screws 92 the shank ot the sepas rater-plate 9a normally disposed beneath the rutlling blade Gli and havino its forward edge notched and serrated as r resented in Fig, 3 and termed in its upper :tace with longitudinal grooves to receive the points or serrations of the ruilling blade.
  • the supporting plate 91 has also in its upper face a transverse groove in which is adjustably secured by means of the screw 95 entering a slot 96 therein the shank 97 of the upper edge-folder 98.
  • the slide-rod S5 has secured thereon near its upper end by means of the screw 99 a split collar 100 having secured thereon by means of the screw 101 the shank of an upwardly extending latchtooth 102 adapted to engage the rounded cam face extending along the outer side and the bottom of the forwardly projecting lug 103 which is formed in its front side at the end of said cam-face with a slot 104 to be entered by the upper portion of the tooth 102 under the action of a spring 105 interposed between the collar 100 and the lower bearing lug 84.
  • the collar 100 is provided with a forwardly extending finger-piece 106 by means of which the slide-rod 85 may be pressed downwardly in opposition to its spring 105 to disengage the tooth 102 from the slot or aperture 104 so as to enable the rod to be turned for shifting the separatorplate and upper edge folder from the operative position represented in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive, to inoperative position.
  • the face-plate 4X carries a stud-screw 107 passing through a washer 10S formed in its inner face with a groove 108X between which and the face-plate is interposed an endwise adjustable rod 109 having a lateral stopnger 110 disposed in advance of the camlug 103.
  • the slide-rod S5 assumes a lower position in which the latch-tooth 102, while entering the lower portion of the slot 104, remains out of contact with the stopfinger 110, but when the presser-foot is raised, the slide-rod rises wit-h the same under the action of the spring 105 until the upper edge of the tooth 102 comes into contact with the stop-finger 110, when its upward movement is checked and the continued upward movement of the bearing lugs 83 and 84 thereof serves'merely to compress ,the spring 105.
  • the collar 82 has formed therein adjacent the presser-bar 14 a vertical socket in which is adjustably secured by means of the fastening-screw 111 the shank of a depending lifting rod 112 provided at its lower end with a lateral finger 113 extending beneath the lower edge of the rufller-blade carrying arm 59 to insure the lifting of the latter with the rise of the presser-foot for the introduction and removal of the work.
  • the guide for the margin of the body fabric is afforded by the edge-folder 114 whose baseplate 115 is adjustably secured upon the work-plate slide 22X by suitable means which form no part of the present improvement.
  • the presser-bar 14 has secured thereto beneath the collar 81 by means of the screw 116 still another collar 117 which is provided with a rearwardly projecting lug 118 extending through a. slot 119 in the rearside of the bracket-arm head 4 for engagement with the cammed upper portion 120 of the lifting lever 121 mounted upon the fulcrum-pin 122 in a manner well known.
  • the slotted portion of the swinging ruiing lever 49 is shown provided along its rearward edge with a series of graduations 123 to form a scale over which lies the pointer 124 formed upon an angular extension 125 of a washer 126 having an aperture 127 embracing the periphery of the bushing flange 46, the angular extension 125 being fitted to the adjacent edge of the lever 49.
  • the position of the fulcrum-pin 44 and the corresponding stroke of the rufliing blade under the uniform vibratory movements of the arm 41 are indicated by the pointer 124 in connection with the scale 123 which latter is in practice provided with suitable numbers representing the different ranges of movement of the ruflier blade.
  • the presser-bar In the operation of the machine, the presser-bar is lirst lifted by means of the finger-lever 121, or by means of the treadleactuated rock-lever 126 fulcrumed upon the arm 3 at 129 for introduction of the several plies of fabric.
  • the presser-foot being directly attached to the presser-bar follows the full lift of the latter.
  • the rEhe ruliling blade ceases its rising movement with that of the separator-plate until its carrying arm 59 is engaged by the lateral finger 118 of the depending lifting rod 112, when the ruil'ling blade is lifted to its highest position which is above the eXtreme elevated position of the separator-plate but slightly below the bottom of the presser-foot at the highest point of the latter,
  • the several parts acting upon the ruffled fabric are differentially lifted by the raising of the presser-foot so as to aord intervening spaces for the convenient insertion of the several plies of fabric, the tape being introduced into the guiding channel-way 20 of the presser-foot and beneath the sole of the latter abo-ve the ruilling blade, the marginal portion of the upper ply of fabric being introduced from the right into the upper fold-guide 9S and led foiwvardly beneath the needles and between the rul'lling blade and separator-plate, and the lower or body fabric being introduced from the left into the lower foldguide lflf
  • the operation proceeds ii lm the initial point up to within a short d tance of retnrn to the same point, when it is necessary to withdraw the folders from the folded edges of the two lower plies of fabric.. 'llo this end the pr er-foot raised as before, and the linti piece l0@ pr sed downwardly to force the slide-rod S5 downwardly for disengagement of the latch-tooth 102 from the cam-lug 103.
  • the combination with stitclrforming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a swinging rnliling lever having ⁇ a longitudinal slideway and an adjacent graduated scale and adapted to move in a plane parallel with that of the needle path, a ruffling blade, a carrier therefor pivotally mounted upon said rullling lever, an actuating roclcshat mounted in fixed bearings and provided with a crank-arm adjacent said ruflling lever, means for imparting uniform operative movements to said rockshaft, a pivotal stud carried by saidcrankarm and provided with means whereby it is adjustable longitudinally of the latter, a slide-block mounted upon said stud and en tering said slideway in the rnflling lever, and a pointer overlying said scale of the rullling lever and movable with said pivotal stud to indicate the range of throw of the rutl'ling lever and rutlling blade under the uniform operative movements of said crankarm.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a swinging ruffling lever adapted to move in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path and provided at one edge with a bearing lug and an adjacent longitudinal guide-rib, a.
  • a rufliing blade a carrying arm therefor pivotally mounted upon said rufling lever, an actuating rock-shaft mounted in fixed bearings and provided with a crankarm adjacent said ruffling lever, operating means for said rock-shaft, a pivotal stud carried by said crank-arm and affording a coupling between the latter and said ruffling lever, a thrust-rod having one end portion journaled in the bearing lug of the ruffling lever and the opposite end connected with the rufiling blade carrier, a slide-block adjustably mounted upon and intermediate the ends of said thrust-rod and grooved to embrace said guide-rib, and a spring interposed between said bearing lug and slid-eblocl and acting through said thrust-rod and carrier to press the ruflling blade upon the work.
  • rutliing mechanism including a swinging ruil'ling lever, a ruflling blade, a carrying arm therefor pivotally connected at one end with said rutliing lever and having at its opposite end a lateral ear formed with a longitudinally extending slot and having in its under side a seat having lateral shoulders fitted to the edges of the rullling blade, and a fastening screw with its shank entering the slot in said lateral ear and tapped into the ruflling blade and having its head seated upon the top of said ear, whereby the longitudinal adjustment of the ruflling blade upon said arm may be effected from the upper side of the same while the rattling blade is held against lateral displacement.
  • the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, feeding mechanism, a presser-bar, and a presser-foot carried thereby, of a swinging ruii'ling lever, a rufliing blade, a carrier therefor fulcrumed upon said ruffling lever, a spring acting upon said carrier to press the ruiiling blade downwardly in operative relation with the work, a separator-plate, a carrier therefor, an oscillatory slide-rod movable relatively to and parallel with the presser-bar, spaced bearing bosses in which said slide-rod is journaled, a lug projecting from the upper bearing boss and provided upon its lower side with a cam surface terminating in a slot parallel with the slide-rod, a collar xed upon the slide-rod and carrying an upwardly extending latch-tooth adapted to engage said cam surface and enter the adjacent slot, and a spring for normally pressing said slide-rod upwardly.
  • bracket-arm and provided with a radial guideway
  • a swinging rutl'ling lever disposed adjacent said crank-arm and formed with a guideway parallel with that of the cranh-a1m in one extreme position of the same, slide-blochs litted respectively to the guideways ot said ru'llling lever and crank-arm, a pivotal stud connecting ⁇ said slide-blocks, and means including a clamplever applied to said pivotal stud and disposed beyond the outer lace of the rui'lling lever whereby said slideeblocks are adjustably sustained in position in their respective guideways.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

A. H. DE VOB.
RuPPLmG AND STITGHING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED APR. 2, 1910.
Patented A111228, 1914.
2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.
97 W/TNESSES.' TK @I www ZW al@ cnLUMBIA PLANOODAPH co..w4\3HlNClrcN. D. c.
INI/ENIGH A ORN-Ey A. H. DE VOB.
RUFPLING AND STITCHING MACHINE..
APPLICATION FILED APR. 2, 1910.
1,094,707. Patented Apr. 28, 1914.
2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.
INVENTOR cnLuAxmA PLANDGRAPH Co..wASHlNGTnN. D. c.
@NEED STATES PATENT FFTCE.
.ALBERT H. DE VCE, OF ELIZABETH, NEVI' JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.
RUFFLING AND STITCHING MACHINE.
To aZZ @07mm it' may concern Be it known that I, ALBERT H. De Von, a citizen of the United States, residing at Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful lmprovements in Ruiiling and Stitching Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.
This invention relates to an improvement in that class of machines which are designed to effect the folding of the edges and the ruiiiing and stitching of continuous bands upon the bottoms of skirts, and for performing this class of work upon other circular articles, and it has for its object to provide convenient and effective means for adjusting the several coacting parts for efficient cooperation in the handling of the work and to facilitate the disengagement of certain of the work-engaging parts near the completion of a seam to enable the latter to be tinished at the starting point.
The invention consists in the several constructive features herein shown and described and set forth in the appended claims.
In the drawings, Figure 1 is a rear side elevation of a sewing machine embodying the present improvements, and Fig. 2 a front end elevation of the same with the face-plate removed and the work-plate in section. Fig. 3 is a perspective view, upon a larger scale, showing the ruitiing and folding devices detached from other parts of the machine, with the presser-foot raised and the cooperating parts separated for introduction of the work; and Fig. 4 is a similar view of certain of the same parts, taken from a diHerent view point. Fig. 5 is a sectional plan view representing the adjustable connection between the swinging ruffling lever and its vibratory actuating arm, and Fig. 6 a perspective view of the pointercarrying washer applied to such connection. Fig. 7 is a detail perspective'view of the clamping washer for one of the adjustable stop-members of the device. Fig. S is a perspective view of the tape-guiding` presserfoot, and Fig. 9 a similar view of the rutiling blade and its carrying arm. Fig. is a perspective view representing the product of the machine with a portion thereof uncompleted.
The present improvement is shown em- Specication of Letters Patent.
Application iiled April 2, 1910.
Patented Apr. 28, 1914.
Serial No. 552,948.
bodied in the well-known Singer doublechain-stitch machine disclosed more fully in my application Serial No. 501,460, filed J une 11, 1909, and comprising a frame having the base 1 and bracket-arm formed with hollow standard 2 and overhanging portion 3 in the head 4 of which is j ournaled a vertically reciprocating needle-bar 5 carrying the needles 6 arranged in a plane at an angle with the line of feed and cooperating with the thread-carrying loopers 7 in the production of parallel double-chain-stitch seams, the under ply of the work being advanced by the action of the feed-dog 8 carried by the feedbar 9 in a manner well known. The pressure member 10 of the presser-foot, opposed to the feed-dog 8, is pivotally attached, by means of the pin 11, to the shank 12 which is secured by means of the fastening screw 13 to the reduced lower end of the presserbar 14 mounted in the head 4 of the bracketarm and having its upper end engaged by the free end of the pressure spring 15 whose opposite end rests upon the top of the bracket-arm member 3 and is held in position by the steady-pin 16 thereon, pressure being maintained upon the top of the presser-bar by means of the adjusting screw 17 tapped into a lug 18 upon the arm 3 overhanging the spring 15 which is engaged by the point of said screw.. The upturned forward portion 19 of the presser-foot is formed with a tape-guiding channel 20.
rFhe main-shaft 21, journaled in the base 1 beneath the work-plate 22, carries at its rearward end an actuating eccentric 23 embraced by a strap 24 at the lower end of an eccentric-rod 25 connected at its upper end by means of the stud 26 with a forwardly projecting arm 27 having a hub 28 secured by means of set-screws 29 upon the rearward end of the rufiler rock-shaft 30 journaled in suitable bearings 31 and 32 upon the back of the bracket-arm member 3. The rock-shaft 30 carries near its forward end the hub 33 of a lateral arm 34 connected by means of the stud 35 with the upper end of a link 36 whose lower end embraces a stud 37 carried by a lateral arm 38 eXtending from a hub 39 which is fixed upon the rock-shaft 40 journaled in the lower portion of the head 4 of the bracket-arm beneath the rock-shaft 30. The rock-shaft 40 has fixed upon its forward end a depending arm 41 formed with a longitudinal undercut guideway or channel Ll2 which is entered by the rectangular head 4:3 oit a coupling pin t-t having fitted upon its shank the loose bushing t5 with flange t6 resting upon the outer face of the arm stl. The bushing Ll5 enters a central aperture in a slide-block 4J? fitted within a longitudinal slideway 48 in the rut lling lever ett) which is pivotally supported by means of the stud-screw 50 tapped into a lateral arm 5l having its hub 52 iixed upon the l'iilcriiin-pin 53 ournaled upon the head t of the bracket-arm and connected at its opposite end by means of the stud-screw 5lwith a split collar 55 adjustably secured by means ot clamp-screws 56 upon the presserbar lil.
.bis will be observed by reference to Fig. 2, in which the rutlling blade is shown in its advance position, the guideways l2 and 48 of the crank-arm L tl and rattling lever 49, respectively, are disposed in parallel relation and in a diametri al plane of the actuating rock-shaft Ll0. By this means, no matter what the position ot adjustment of the slide-blocks i3 and 1LT in such guideways, the rutliing lever t9 will invariably assume an extreme advance position at the same point, and the operative edge ot the rattling blade will accordingly assume its advance position at a fixed point relatively to the needles regardless et the amplitude ot its operative or rattling movements. B y mounting the crank-arm itl upon the actuating rock-shaft at the outer extremity of the bracket-arm and the rul'lling lever beyond the samey these parts are adapted to be arranged not only backward of the stitching mechanism to facilitate the handling and inspection ot the work by the operator7 but ample provision is made for properly positioning the fulcrun'i-stud of the rattling lever to provide the necessary separation ot the axes oit movement ot such lever and its actuating crank-arm to provide tor the dcsired adjustment of throw of the iormer by its connection with the latter. As an additional advantage ot this arrangement the adjusting means for varying the position oit the slide-blocks e3 and 47 is exposed in the most accessible position tor manipulation by the operator.
rIlle vibrating ruilling lever i9 has at its lower end the rearwardly and downwardly projecting lug 57 entering the fork 58 at the rearward end of the rul'lling blade carrying arm 59 to which it is pivotally attached by means of the screw-stud 60. yllhe arm 5.() has at its it'orward or free end the lateral ear 6l formed in its under side with a longitudinal seat to receive the shank G3 o' the ruliling blade Gd serrated and sharpened at its forward end and having tapped in the upper side oi' its shank the fastening screw G5 passing through a longitudinal slot 6G in the ear (3l by i'neans ot which it is igoeayro? adjustably secured to its carrying arm The coupling pin ist has applied to its threaded outer end the internally threaded bushing G7 provided with the flange GS adapted to rest in contact with the outer end oit the bushing d5 and to overlap the slideblock 475 this bushing having its c 'flindrical body iitted within the split. socket G9 oit a claniili-lever '.70 provided with ears il which are normally drawn together to clamp the lever upon the bushing` G7 by means ot a screw 72. The bushing (S7 may be turned by the lever T0 in l*lamping and unclamping between the coupling pin head -z-li' and the liiisliiiig-tlange 46 the slotted outer portion ot the rocking arm Lil from which operative movements oi the rutliing lever dit) are derived. The hub of the lever i() may obviously be clamped upon the bushing GT in such manner that when the bushing is tightened to clamp the coupling pin ist in pi tion upon the vibratory arm #il the lever H will lie in its rearward position where it least in the way of the operator, and this adjustment may be changed from time to time to conlpensate tor wear of the elaniping parts.
'ifhe -forked rearward portion oit the arm 59 carries a lateral pin 73 formed in its upper side with a suitable cavity or pocket T #l1 to receive the lower extremity ot a threaded thrust-rod loosely journaled near the upper end in ar perforated ear iti upon the torward edge of the lever eti) and passing through an internally threaded slide-block 77 having in its rearward edge a f rfoove adapted to engage a guide-rib 'TS termed upon the forward edge oli the lever titl, a spring` 75X being interposed between the ear 7G and the block 7'? whereby a adjustaliile downward pressure is exerted upon the thrust-rod which is communicated to the pin 73 and thence through the arm 59 to the rutlling blade 611-.
Fixed upon the messer-bar lll below the collar 55 by means of screws 7) and. SO are collars Sl and S2 provided respectively with forwardly extending bearing lugs 83 and Si having alined bearing apertures in whichare journaled the opposite end portions ot an oscillatory slide-rod 85 havi e; upon its lower end a radial wing S6 fitted within a lateral channel or recess 87 of the separatorcarrying arm SS adjustably secured to said wing by means or" a fastening screw S9 passing through a slot 90 in the latter and. tapjed into the arm S8. 'lhe arm S8 is formed at its free outer end with a lateral flange or supporting plate '91 a-tliording a seat upon which is secured by means of the fastening screws 92 the shank ot the sepas rater-plate 9a normally disposed beneath the rutlling blade Gli and havino its forward edge notched and serrated as r resented in Fig, 3 and termed in its upper :tace with longitudinal grooves to receive the points or serrations of the ruilling blade. The supporting plate 91 has also in its upper face a transverse groove in which is adjustably secured by means of the screw 95 entering a slot 96 therein the shank 97 of the upper edge-folder 98. The slide-rod S5 has secured thereon near its upper end by means of the screw 99 a split collar 100 having secured thereon by means of the screw 101 the shank of an upwardly extending latchtooth 102 adapted to engage the rounded cam face extending along the outer side and the bottom of the forwardly projecting lug 103 which is formed in its front side at the end of said cam-face with a slot 104 to be entered by the upper portion of the tooth 102 under the action of a spring 105 interposed between the collar 100 and the lower bearing lug 84. The collar 100 is provided with a forwardly extending finger-piece 106 by means of which the slide-rod 85 may be pressed downwardly in opposition to its spring 105 to disengage the tooth 102 from the slot or aperture 104 so as to enable the rod to be turned for shifting the separatorplate and upper edge folder from the operative position represented in Figs. 1 to 4 inclusive, to inoperative position.
The face-plate 4X carries a stud-screw 107 passing through a washer 10S formed in its inner face with a groove 108X between which and the face-plate is interposed an endwise adjustable rod 109 having a lateral stopnger 110 disposed in advance of the camlug 103. Then the presser-foot is lowered, the slide-rod S5 assumes a lower position in which the latch-tooth 102, while entering the lower portion of the slot 104, remains out of contact with the stopfinger 110, but when the presser-foot is raised, the slide-rod rises wit-h the same under the action of the spring 105 until the upper edge of the tooth 102 comes into contact with the stop-finger 110, when its upward movement is checked and the continued upward movement of the bearing lugs 83 and 84 thereof serves'merely to compress ,the spring 105.
The collar 82 has formed therein adjacent the presser-bar 14 a vertical socket in which is adjustably secured by means of the fastening-screw 111 the shank of a depending lifting rod 112 provided at its lower end with a lateral finger 113 extending beneath the lower edge of the rufller-blade carrying arm 59 to insure the lifting of the latter with the rise of the presser-foot for the introduction and removal of the work. The guide for the margin of the body fabric is afforded by the edge-folder 114 whose baseplate 115 is adjustably secured upon the work-plate slide 22X by suitable means which form no part of the present improvement. The presser-bar 14 has secured thereto beneath the collar 81 by means of the screw 116 still another collar 117 which is provided with a rearwardly projecting lug 118 extending through a. slot 119 in the rearside of the bracket-arm head 4 for engagement with the cammed upper portion 120 of the lifting lever 121 mounted upon the fulcrum-pin 122 in a manner well known.
As represented in the drawings, the slotted portion of the swinging ruiing lever 49 is shown provided along its rearward edge with a series of graduations 123 to form a scale over which lies the pointer 124 formed upon an angular extension 125 of a washer 126 having an aperture 127 embracing the periphery of the bushing flange 46, the angular extension 125 being fitted to the adjacent edge of the lever 49. The position of the fulcrum-pin 44 and the corresponding stroke of the rufliing blade under the uniform vibratory movements of the arm 41 are indicated by the pointer 124 in connection with the scale 123 which latter is in practice provided with suitable numbers representing the different ranges of movement of the ruflier blade.
In the operation of the machine, the presser-bar is lirst lifted by means of the finger-lever 121, or by means of the treadleactuated rock-lever 126 fulcrumed upon the arm 3 at 129 for introduction of the several plies of fabric. The presser-foot being directly attached to the presser-bar follows the full lift of the latter. As the fulcrumpin 50 of the rufliing lever 49 is mounted upon the arm 51 intermediate its fulcrum 53 and the stud 54 by which it is connected with the presser-bar, it will be seen that the lever 49 is positively lifted, but in a lesser degree than the presser-bar, and in its upward movement it lifts the fulcrum-pin 60, while the spring-actuated thrust-rod 75 continues to act upon the lateral stud 7 3 of the arm 59 to force the rulfiing blade downward in opposition to the lifting action of the separator-plate which rises lwith its supporting slide-bar 85 under the action of the spring 105 until its upward motion is checked by engagement of the toot-h 102 with the stopfinger 110 as previously described. rEhe ruliling blade ceases its rising movement with that of the separator-plate until its carrying arm 59 is engaged by the lateral finger 118 of the depending lifting rod 112, when the ruil'ling blade is lifted to its highest position which is above the eXtreme elevated position of the separator-plate but slightly below the bottom of the presser-foot at the highest point of the latter, By the means above described, the several parts acting upon the ruffled fabric are differentially lifted by the raising of the presser-foot so as to aord intervening spaces for the convenient insertion of the several plies of fabric, the tape being introduced into the guiding channel-way 20 of the presser-foot and beneath the sole of the latter abo-ve the ruilling blade, the marginal portion of the upper ply of fabric being introduced from the right into the upper fold-guide 9S and led foiwvardly beneath the needles and between the rul'lling blade and separator-plate, and the lower or body fabric being introduced from the left into the lower foldguide lflfl beneath the separator-plate. rthe several plies of fabric having been introduced as above described, the presser-bai.' lowered, when the several parts assume their oiierative p: itions in yielding engagement with the work.
in the folding, rullling and stitching of circular articles, such as skirts, the operation proceeds ii lm the initial point up to within a short d tance of retnrn to the same point, when it is necessary to withdraw the folders from the folded edges of the two lower plies of fabric.. 'llo this end the pr er-foot raised as before, and the linti piece l0@ pr sed downwardly to force the slide-rod S5 downwardly for disengagement of the latch-tooth 102 from the cam-lug 103. which enables the operator to turn the side-rod S5 so as to shift the carrier Sid with its separator-plato 941 and upper edge-f, er 9S into inoperative position at the side ot the stitch-forming mechanism, thus discngaging such members from the rulllcd if fhe folded edge of the lower ply of fabric is ,adily disengaged from the lower edi-. llfl, after which. the presser-dan is again lowered and the remainder of the am guided by hand to the stitch-form. g mechanism for completion of the operation. The lifting of the pro i rl1ar permits the removal of the work, as in ordinarv sewing machines.
ln returnii g the separatorplatc and upper edgofolder to initial position, it is merely necessary to throw the lingerpiece llll toward the frontof the machine, when the latch-tooth hr2 rides down the inclined cani edge of the lug lfl until it strikes the depending farther side wall. of the slot lOl, when the spring 105 causes it to snap into the latter to loclr the parts mounted upon the carrier 8S in operative relation with the cooperatino` parts.
.llcferrii j to Fig. 10, it will be observed that the lower ply or bodvsfabric e has its marginal portion c turned overnpon itself to receive the partially overlapping underturned margin Zi of the rullle-fabric l), these overlapped folds of the two fabrics being` covered by the folded tape and all stitched together by the parallel seams (Z and e, the former of which p s through the tape and the folded margin of the body7 fabric, while the latter passes through all three fabrics.
lrlaving thus set forth the nature of the invention, what l claim herein is zvn a, sewing machine, the combination noe/irre? with stitclrforming mechanism including a reciirocating needle, feeding mechanism, a presser'bar, and a presser-foot carried thereby, of a swinging rattling lever, a rullling blade, a carrier therefor fulcrumed upon said rnllling lever, a spring' acting npon said carrier to press the ruflling blade downwardly in operative relation with the work, a separatonplate, a carrier therefor, a spring connected with the separator-plate carrier for pressing the same upwardly, a lifting member carried by the presser-bar and normally out of operative en gagcment with the ruliling blade carrier but. adapted to engage the same to liftv said carrier, a fixed stop for arresting the lifting movement of the separator-plate carrier, and a lifting device for the pressenbar whereby the pressenfoot, rattling blade and separator-plate are differenti ally lifted to admit the work.
ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism in cluding a reciprocating needle, feeding mechanism, a presser-bar, and a prcsser-foot carried there by, of a swinging rufl'ling lever, a rattling blade, a carrier therefor fulcrnmed upon said ruflling lever, a spring acting upon said carrier to press the ru'l'lling bla de down- 'ardly in operative relation with the worl, a separator-plate, a carrier therefor, a spring connected with the separator-plate carrier for pressing the same upwardly, a liftingl member adjustably secured to the presserbar and normally out of operative engage ment with the rullling blade carrier but adapted to engage the same to litt said carrier, a stop adjustably secured upon a fixed support and adapted for arresting the lifting movement of the separator-plate carrier, and a lifting device for the presser-bar whereby the presser-foot, rattling blade and separator-plate are differentially lifted to admit the work.
ln a sewing machine, the combination with stitclrforming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a swinging rnliling lever having` a longitudinal slideway and an adjacent graduated scale and adapted to move in a plane parallel with that of the needle path, a ruffling blade, a carrier therefor pivotally mounted upon said rullling lever, an actuating roclcshat mounted in fixed bearings and provided with a crank-arm adjacent said ruflling lever, means for imparting uniform operative movements to said rockshaft, a pivotal stud carried by saidcrankarm and provided with means whereby it is adjustable longitudinally of the latter, a slide-block mounted upon said stud and en tering said slideway in the rnflling lever, and a pointer overlying said scale of the rullling lever and movable with said pivotal stud to indicate the range of throw of the rutl'ling lever and rutlling blade under the uniform operative movements of said crankarm.
e. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism, of a swinging ruffling lever adapted to move in a plane parallel with that of the needle-path and provided at one edge with a bearing lug and an adjacent longitudinal guide-rib, a. rufliing blade, a carrying arm therefor pivotally mounted upon said rufling lever, an actuating rock-shaft mounted in fixed bearings and provided with a crankarm adjacent said ruffling lever, operating means for said rock-shaft, a pivotal stud carried by said crank-arm and affording a coupling between the latter and said ruffling lever, a thrust-rod having one end portion journaled in the bearing lug of the ruffling lever and the opposite end connected with the rufiling blade carrier, a slide-block adjustably mounted upon and intermediate the ends of said thrust-rod and grooved to embrace said guide-rib, and a spring interposed between said bearing lug and slid-eblocl and acting through said thrust-rod and carrier to press the ruflling blade upon the work.
5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism and feeding mechanism, of rutliing mechanism including a swinging ruil'ling lever, a ruflling blade, a carrying arm therefor pivotally connected at one end with said rutliing lever and having at its opposite end a lateral ear formed with a longitudinally extending slot and having in its under side a seat having lateral shoulders fitted to the edges of the rullling blade, and a fastening screw with its shank entering the slot in said lateral ear and tapped into the ruflling blade and having its head seated upon the top of said ear, whereby the longitudinal adjustment of the ruflling blade upon said arm may be effected from the upper side of the same while the rattling blade is held against lateral displacement.
(3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, feeding mechanism, a presser-bar, and a presser-foot carried thereby, of a swinging ruii'ling lever, a rufliing blade, a carrier therefor fulcrumed upon said ruffling lever, a spring acting upon said carrier to press the ruiiling blade downwardly in operative relation with the work, a separator-plate, a carrier therefor, an oscillatory slide-rod movable relatively to and parallel with the presser-bar, spaced bearing bosses in which said slide-rod is journaled, a lug projecting from the upper bearing boss and provided upon its lower side with a cam surface terminating in a slot parallel with the slide-rod, a collar xed upon the slide-rod and carrying an upwardly extending latch-tooth adapted to engage said cam surface and enter the adjacent slot, and a spring for normally pressing said slide-rod upwardly.
7. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitchforming and feeding mechanisms, of a swinging rufliing lever, a rufliing blade, a carrier therefor pivotally connected with the ruffling lever, means for lifting the rutiing blade out of operative relation with the worlr, a separator-plate, a carrier therefor, an oscillatory slide-rod, spaced bearing bosses in which said slide-rod is journaled, a lug projecting from the upper bearing boss and provided upon its lower side with a cam surface terminating in a slot parallel with the slide-rod, a collar iixed upon the sliderod and carrying an upwardly extending latch-tooth and adapted to engage said cam surface and enter the adjacent slot, a spring for normally pressing said slide-rod upwardly to maintain the separator-plate normally in operative relation with the rufiing blade, and an adjustable stop mounted upon a fixed support and disposed within the path of movement of said tooth.
8. In a sewing machine, the combination with the work-plate and stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presserbar, a
presser-footcarried thereby, a reciprocating ruffling blade, a separator-plate, a presserbar lifter, and connections disposed rearwardly of the forward end of the presserfoot whereby the raising of the presser-bar causes the lifting of the presser-foot, the ruffling blade and the separator-plate and separation of each of said parts from the others. y
9. In a sewing machine, the combination with the work-plate and stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-bar, a press-er-foot carried thereby, a presser-bar lifter, a reciprocating rufliing blade, a separator-plate, a carrier therefor movable toward and from the work-plate, an adjustable stop sustained independently of the presserfoot for limiting the range of movement of said carrier away from the work-plate, and lifting means for said carrier.
l0. In a sewing machine, the combination with the work-plate and stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of a presser-bar, a presser-foot carried thereby, a presser-bar lifter, a reciprocating ruftling blade, a separator-plate, means actuated by the presserbar lifter whereby the presser-foot, ,the ruffling blade and the separator-plate are lifted, and means for adjusting the range of lifting movement of the ru'liling blade and separator-plate relatively to the presser-foot.
ll. In a sewing machine, the combination with the frame including a bed-plate and an overhanging bracket-arm, and stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, of an actuating rock-shaft journaled in thebraclet-arm, a
"noeeyzee crank-arm tired thereon beyond the eX- tremity olI the bracket-arm and provided with a radial guideway, a swinging rutl'lingny leyer disposed adjacent said crank-arm and formed with a guideway disposed lengthwise thereof, slide-blocks fitted respectively to the guideways of said riiftlirlg lever and crankarm, a pivotal stud connecting said slideblocls, and means including a clampdeyer applied to said pivotal stud and disposed beyond the outer face ot the ruttling lever whereby said slide-blocks are adjustably sustained in position in their respective guideways.
12. ln a sewing` machine, the combination with the trame including a bed-pl ate and an overhanging bracket-arm, and stitch-torming` and feeding` mechanisms, of an actuating rock-shaft journaled in the bracket-arm, a crank-arm fixed thereon beyond the extremity oi? the bracket-arm and provided with a radial guideway, a swinging rutl'ling lever disposed adjacent said crank-arm and formed with a guideway parallel with that of the cranh-a1m in one extreme position of the same, slide-blochs litted respectively to the guideways ot said ru'llling lever and crank-arm, a pivotal stud connecting` said slide-blocks, and means including a clamplever applied to said pivotal stud and disposed beyond the outer lace of the rui'lling lever whereby said slideeblocks are adjustably sustained in position in their respective guideways.
13. In a sewing` machine, the combination. with stitch-forming and fee-ding` mechanisms, a presser-bar carrying a presser-foot, and a presserbar lifter, ol a swingingruftiing lever, actuating means therefor, a rufi'ling blade connected with and actuated by said lever, and a movable support for said rulliing lever connected with and movable ditterentially with respect to the presser-bar under the action. of said litter.
lll. in a sewinO machine, the combination with stitch-forming and 'feeding mechanislns, a resser-bar carrying a presser-toot, and a presser-bar litter, of a swinging rufA liing leyer, a rull'ling` blade connected with and actuated by said lever, an arm having a tixed ulcrum and connection with said presser-bar in relation to which it is disposed transversely, a stud carried by said arm upon which the ruiiiing lever is hung, and actuatingmeans for the ruliling lever.
ln testimony whereof, l have signed my name to this specilication, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.
ALBERT H. DE VOE. `Witnesses H. A. lonnnimrriv, Jr., NORMAN J. Amina.
@epics or this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by adressng the Commissioner of Patents. "Washington, ID. S.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2555409A (en) * 1946-12-07 1951-06-05 Union Carbide & Carbon Corp Heat sealed ruffled article

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2555409A (en) * 1946-12-07 1951-06-05 Union Carbide & Carbon Corp Heat sealed ruffled article

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