US1052004A - Ruffling and stitching machine. - Google Patents

Description

R. A. KOSGH.

RUFFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 26, 1910.

1,052,004. Patented Feb.4,1913.

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RUFFLING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 26, 1910.

1,052,004, Patented Feb. 4, 1913.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

WI T/VESSES:

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

RUDOLPH A. KOSCH, OLE ELIZABETH, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

RUFFLING AND STITCHING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed September 26, 1910. Serial No. 583,715.

a citizen of the United States,v residing at- Elizabeth, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certaln new and useful Improvements in Ruffling and Stitching Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to an improvement in that class of sewing machines constructed with a frame comprising a base having ournaled therein the main-shaft and an overhanging bracket-arm in which is journaled a longitudinally extending needle-actuating rock-shaft having an operative connection with the mainshaft.

In sewing machines for domestic use and for like work, it is common to drive a ruf fling device by a connection with the reciprocating needle-bar which is driven from the actuating shaft journaled in the bracketarm, but for the heavier classes of work performed by machlnes constructed for general manufacturing purposes, the additional load imposed upon the needle-bar by such operative connection with the ruiiling device subjects the needle-bar to excessive wear in its bearings, and other actuating means for; the ruflhng mechanism 18 therefore found 1 arm in lower operative DOSltlO-Il and in readvisable.

driving means for the rufiling device independent of the needle-bar and the connec tions with its actuating shaft, and also to provide means for fitting a ruftling device so driven to an ordinary stitching machine of the class described with the least possible alteration of the latter-to adapt it to receive 7 .side elevation, upon a larger scale, of porsuch mechanism.

According to the present invention the machine has a needle-actuating rock-shaftjournaled in the bracket-arm and carrying crank to which is adjustably secured one end of a link whose other end is pivotally connected with a crank-arm of the rufller rock-shaft journaled in a bearing bracket upon the head of the bracket-arm and provided with a depending vibratory lever carrying the ruflling blade. To adapt a machine of the class described constructed for ordinary stitching to receive the mechanism referred to, the crank-plate upon the needle actuating rock-shaft is merely provided with the additional crank-pin and a slot is formed in the rearward side of the bracket-arm head to admit the said forked arm, the bearing brackets for the rufller rock-shaft and in termediate rock-shaft being secured upon the exterior of the head respectively upon the front and rear sides.

The machine embodying the present improvement being designed for ruffling, folding and stitching the bottoms of circular articles, such as dress skirts, is provided with folding devices comprising a plurality of separable sections, each of which is adapted to be shifted out of operative position in different directions relative to the line of seam. One of these members is sustained by a swinging arm fulcrumed upon a stud mounted in a bracket upon the head of the bracket-arm and provided with a segmental boss having peripheral notches to receive a locking stud carried by a springpressed latch-lever and adapted to lock said tracted inoperative position.

The invention will be understood by reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a sewing machine embodying the present improvements, and Fig. 2 a front end view of the same with the face plate of the bracket-arm removed. Fig. 3 is a front tions of the rutlling, folding and stitching devices with the movable sections of the folding device retracted for insertion or removal of the work. Fig. 4 is a perspective View showing a portion of the rufller-actuating mechanism, and Fig. 5a similar view representing the latch-lever for the swinging supporting arm in one of the folder sections.

The frame of the machine is constructed with the base 1 from which rises the hollow columnar portion 2 of the bracket-arm whose longitudinally extending overhanging portion 3 is provided at its forward end with the head 4 formed with the cavity 5. Jour- Patented Feb. 4,1913.

naled in the bearings 6 provided in the base is the main-shaft 7 constructed with the crank 8 embraced by a strap 9 at one end of the pitman 10 whose eyed opposite end 11 embraces the stud 12 carried by the lat eral crank-arm 13 whose hub 14 is fixed upon the needle-actuating rock-shaft 15 journaled in the bearings 16 and 17 longitudinally of the bracket-arm, with its forward end extended into the cavity 5 of the head 4 and having fixed thereon the hub 18 of the crank-plate 19 carrying the pins 20 and 21 in substantially diametrical arrangement relative to the axis of said rock-shaft. The crank-pin 20 is embraced by one end of the usual pitman 22 whose opposite end embraces the lateral stud of the collar 23 fixed upon the needle-bar 24 which is journaled within suitable hearings in the head 4 for vertical reciprocation therein and carries the twin needle'cla1np 25 in which are secured the needles 26. The needles coiiperate with eyed loopers 27 mounted upon the oscillating carrier 28 journaled upon the rocking yoke 29 fulcrumed upon the studscrew 30, the looper-earrier deriving its usual oscillatory movements from an inclined crankpin 31 upon the forward end of the shaft 7 and its sidewise movements from the usual means carried by the main-shaft.

Secured to the front side of the bracketarm head 4 by suitable means is the foot 82 of a bearing bracket having a boss 33 in which is journaled the rufiler rockshaft 34 arranged parallel with the needle-actuating rock-shaft 15 and having fixed upon its rearward end the split hub 35 of the depending sectional rufl'ler-blade carrying lever or carrier 36 provided with the laterally extending stud-pin 37 secured therein by means of the clamp-nut 3S and upon which is pivotally mounted the tilting bladeholder 39 to the bottom of which is secured the rufiling blade 40 which is normally pressed toward the throat-plate 41 by means of the coiled spring 42 whose opposite ends are connected respectively with the bladeholder and a finger 43 of the washer 44 carried by the lever 36. The rufller rock-shaft 34 has fixed upon its forward end by means of the pin 45 the hub 46 of a crank-arm 47 carrying a screw-stud 48 embraced by one of the eyed extremities of the link 49, the other of which is entered by the screw-stud 50 adjustably secured within the segmental. slot 51 of the upwardly extending arms 52 fixed upon the forward end of the intermediate rock-shaft 53 journaled in a bearing 54 which may be secured to or formed integral with the rearward side of the head 4 of the bracket-arm. The rock-shaft 53 has fixed upon its opposite end by means of the set-screw 55 the hub 56 of a lateral arm 57 having a forked extremity 58 embracing the crank-pin 21, which is shown in Fig. 4

provided with an anti-friction roller 59. To admit the forked arm 57 58 into the cavity 5 for operative connection with the crank-pin 21, the rear wall of the bracketarm head 4 is formed with the vertical slot 60, as represented more particularly in Fig. 1.

The bracket-arm head 4 is provided with the usual presser-bar 61 normally pressed downwardly by means of the spring 62 in tel-posed between the fixed thrust-collar 63 thereon and the lower end of the bushing 64, and the presserbar has secured to its red uced lower end the shank 65 of the presserfoot 66 opposed to which is the feed-dog 67 carried by the feed-bar 68 which is piv0tally connected with the usual feed-rocker 69 deriving its operative movements from the feed-actuating eccentric 70 upon the main-shaft.

The operation of the stitclrforming, feeding and ruflling mechanisms is similar to that of other machines of this class, the ruiiling blade being advanced to produce a fold in the material beneath the presserfoot preparatory to an operative movementof the feed-dog to advance the work while the needles are elevated, and the rutliing blade receding to initial retracted position while the needles are descending into the fold thus produced and positioned to receive the fastening stitches.

To the work-plate 71 is secured by suitable means a base-plate 72 formed with a guideway in which is fitted a detachable slide-plate 73 carrying the edge-folder 74 disposed in advance of and directed toward the stitch-forming mechanism. The baseplate 72 has rigidly connected therewith tho laterally extending tongue 75 upon which is mounted the block 76 having in its lower face a channel fitted to the edges of said tongue and permitting the block to be shifted toward and from the stitching line. The block 76 has secured adjustably thereon by means of fastening screws 77 the shank 78 of the edge-turning scroll 79 and the superposed fiange 80 of the folding plate 81, together forming one of the laterally separable sections of a plait-folder, of which the other section consists of the fold-plate 82 provided with the space overlying plate 83 connected therewith at one edge to form an edge-guiding rib or shoulder 84. The plate 88 has a rigid shank 85 provided with slots 66 entered by fastening screws 87 for securing the same adjustably upon the swinging arm 88 formed at its upper extremity with the segmental flange 89 provided with spaced peripheral notches 90 and having a concentric aperture entered by the fulcrum-stud 91 carried by the bracket-plate 92 which is formed with a shank 93 adjustably secured by means of a set-screw 94 within a transverse channel in the foot 32 of the ruliler rock-shaft bearing-bracket. The bracketplate 92 has upon its rearward face the fulcrum-screw 95 upon which is pivotally mounted the head 96 of a latch-lever 97 carrying a forwardly projecting pin 98 passing through a segmental slot 99 in the plate 92 and formed upon its forward end with a tooth 100 adapted to enter either of the notches 90 of the segment 89. The locking tooth 100 is normally pressed toward the segment 89 by means of a spring 101 having one end connected with the head 96 of the latch-lever 97 and the other end attached to the bracket-plate 92.

The present machine, as thus described, is designed for producing the class of work shown and described in the United States Patent to J. Douglas No. 7%,632, dated October 6, 1903.

\Vhen forming the plaits in the body of the garment and inserting within the folds thereof the ruffled flounces, the edge-guide '74 is removed, and the reversely separable sections of the plait-folder are brought together into operative relation as represented in Figs. 1 and 2. In this arrangement of the parts the presser-foot is lifted and the body fabric is introduced from the left (referring to Fig. 1) over and around the righthand edge of the fold-plate 81 and beneath the same within the scroll '79, and thence beneath the fold-plate 82, so as to bend the body fabric into S-shape, and into the upper member is introduced the margin of the flounce passing intermediate the plates 82 and 83 with its edge in contact with the guide-shoulder 8a. The presser-foot being lowered, the machine is set in motion and the reciprocation of the ruffling blade 40 produces the desired transverse crimps or ruffles in the superposed fabric of the fiounce which is stitched within the plait of the body fabric as in the patent before mentioned.

In order to form a hem in the margin of the body fabric in connection with the last plait, the hem-folder '74 is applied to the base-plate '7 2, and the body fabric is introduced as before described over and around the edge of the folding plate 81 and underneath the folding plate 82 with itsedge entering the scroll of the hem-folder 74, and the fiounce is applied as previously described and the stitching similarly performed.

IVhen ruffiing and plaiting endless seams, as in skirts and other round articles, just before the stitching reaches the starting point in the seam, the component sections of the plait-folder are retracted from operative position, as represented in Fig. 3, and the plait is guided by hand in finishing the seam.

The notches 90 in the segment 89 are so arranged that the locking toot-h 100 will enter the one when the fold-plate 82 is in operative position, and enter the other when the fold-plate with its carrier is swung upwardly into extreme retracted position.

One of the chief advantages of the present improvement is that the space beneath the bracket-arm is entirely clear and unobstructed so as to freely admit the body of the garment being operated upon without crowding, and by driving the ruflling mechanism from the forward end of the needleactuating rock-shaft within the head of the bracket-arm, the horizontal portion of the bracket-arm is not weakened by forming a lateral slot therein to accommodate a common form of connection between a ruttling mechanism and the needle operating shaft journaled therein.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine, the combination with the frame comprising a base and an overhanging bracket-arm formed with a hollow head, of a main-shaft, a needle-actuating rock-shaft journaled in said bracket-- arm with its forward extremity provided with two crank-pins and housed within said hollow head, and an operative connection between said shafts, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle-bar and a needle carried thereby, ruflling mechanism including a swinging carrier fulcrumed upon the bracket-arm head and a ruifling blade sustained thereby, and independent operative connections between the crank-pins of said rock-shaft and the needlebar and said carrier, respectively.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main-shaft, a needle-actuating rock shaft carrying two crank-pins, and an operative connection between said shafts, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle-bar and a needle carried thereby, a pitman with one end pivotally connected with said needle-bar and the other end embracing one of said crank-pins, ruffling mechanism including a vibratory lever and a rutfling blade carried thereby, a rocking member mounted in fixed bearings and having a lateral arm forked to embrace the other of said crank-pins, and an operative connection between said rocking member and the vibratory lever.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with the frame comprising a base and an overhanging bracket-arm having a head in its forward extremity formed with a cavity and with a vertical slot in the rear wall leading into said cavity, a main-shaft journaled in said base, a needle-actuating rockshaft journaled in the bracket-arm and carrying two crank pins upon its forward eX- tremity within said cavity, and an operative connection between said shafts, of stitchforming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle-bar and a needle carried thereby, a pitman with one end pivotally &

connected with said needle-bar and the other end embracing one of said crank-pins, ruffling mechanism including a vibratory lever and a rufiiing blade carried thereby, a rock ing member mounted in bearings upon the rear wall of the bracketarm head and provided with a forked arm entering the slot in the latter and embracing the second of said crank-pins, and an operative connection between said rocking member and the vibratory lever.

l. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main-shaft, a needle-actuating rock-shaft carrying two crank-pins, and an operative connection between said shafts, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle-bar and a needle carried thereby, a pitman with one end pivotally connected with said needle-bar and the other end embracing one of said crank-pins, ruffling' mechanism including a vibratory lever and a ruflling blade carried thereby, a rocking member mounted in fixed bearings, an operative connection between said rocking (topics of this patent may be obtained for member and the other of said crank-pins, and a connection between said rocking member and the vibratory lever.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main-shaft, a needle-actuating rock-shaft carrying two crank-pins, and an operative connection between said shafts, of stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle-bar and a needle carried thereby, an operative connection between said needle-bar and one of said crank-pins, a ruttler rock-shaft provided with a crankarm, an operativetconnection between said crank-arm and the other of said crank-pins, a vibratory lever fixed upon said rufiier rockshaft, and a rufliing blade mounted upon said lever.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

RUDOLPH A. KOSCH.

Witnesses:

CHARLES H. MORGAN, HENRY A. KORNEMANN, J r.

five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents. Washington, D. C.

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