US1048145A - Artificial-astrakhan fabric. - Google Patents

Description

- N. GARPINKLE.

ARTIFICIAL ASTRAKHA'N FABRIC. APPLICATION FILED JULY11, 1911.

Patented Dec. 24, 1912.

M W #W 6 G M m w ATTO Er COLUMBIA PLANOORAPH 00., WASHINGTON. D. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT I o F on.

NATHAN GARFINKLE, OF PA'IERSON, NEW JERSEY, ASSIG-NOR 'I'O STANDARD TEXTILE GO. A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY ARTIFICIAL-ASTRAKHAN FABRIC.

, Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Tie-0.24, 1912,

Application filed July 11, 1911. 2 Serial No. 637,984.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, NATHAN GARFINKLE, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city of Paterson, county of'Passaic, and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Artificial-Astrakhan Fabric, set forth in the An object of the nvention is to produce imitation astrakhan with a greatereconomy in labor than has heretofore been possible and also to improve the resemblance of such an artificial textile fabric to the true astrakhan.

To the above ends, the invention contemplates the employment solely of spun threads and the weaving of such spun threads in a loom of ordinary construction; and alsothe employment, in the weft, of the ornamental compound-weft-cord, which gives to the fabric the appearance of astrakhan' The actual character and make-up of the said compound-weftcord, in that it comprises a thin straight tension-core and a self-actuated cover of twisted ornamentalyarn of many times the thickness of saidcore and disposed about said core in a spiral of kinks of irregular size and self-locked to said core by theuntwist of said yarn and its kinky for- -mation, is also a feature of the finished product. c p

The invention will also be set forth particularly in the following: claims which should be read in connection with the folg. lowing specification and the accompanying drawings which show the invention for purposes of illustration and in which,-.. a

Figure 1 is a side elevation of the-com pound-weft-cord before weaving; Fig. 2 'is a'view looking into the open warp-shed after the compound-weft-cord has been picked into place from the shuttle; Fig. 3 is a view.

and at right angles acrossthewarp; Fig. 5,

is a diagrammatic sectional view through the finished fabric along the warp and at right angles to the weft; and Fig. 6 isa perspective view of the finished fabric.

In carrying out this invention a loom of ordinary, well known construction is employed which is capable, through its harness, of opening up a plurality ofsheds, in i other words, a loom capable of working a multiple-shed-warp. I

The first step in the process is the production or procurement of the ornamental com- *po und -weft-cord illustrated in Fig. 1. This cord comprises a straight thin tension-core -1 in the form of a thin tough thread of suitable fiber such as cotton or linen. About the said tension-core 1 is interlocked a self-sustained series of kinks'2 of a twisted ornamental yarn, preferably silk yarn. The com pound-weft-cord 3 comprisingthese two elements 1 and 2 is manufactured according to the process set forth in detail and claimed in my application of even date herewith and entitled Compoundthread and process of spinning same. The compound-weft-cord 3 is wound on a bobbin and is threaded up in a shuttle in the manner well known to the art for an" ordinary weft-thread.

Fig.2 illustrates. diagram the" war-q shed for the reception of the compoun weft-c0rd 3. vThe warpcomprises a mat of' thin spun threads of the ordinarycharacter employed in weaving artificial astrakhan fabric. For the reception of the compoundweft-cord 3, the warp 'isopenednp'into the shed diagrammatically illustrated in Fig. 2 so that the threads a of the outer layer A are spaced apart to approximate the w average spacing of the kinks 2 along the tension-core 1 of the compound-weft-cord 3. c The inner or lower layer B of this warpshed comprises the entire remainder of the 1 warp. This layer B forms a substantially compact -mat vbeneath the compound-weftore 3 and is sufficiently compact to prevent the penetration therethrough of any part of outer layer A are such as to permit the free passage therethrough of the or portion of each kink 2. The loomharness employed for raising the shed layer A may provide lateral play for thelwarp. threads (1 so that they may more readily accommm date themselves to the spaces between the picked through the shed shown ,inyFig. 2

kinks 2. The compound-weft-cord 3,' is ,7

from its shuttle with the tension-corel supplying the necessary tension tostraighten out said cord. After the weft-cord 3 has been picked into its warp-shed A B, a warp shed diagrammatically indicated in Fig. 3, is formed so that each warp-thread a of the outer layer A of the shed shown in Fig. 2 now forms a part of the inner or lower layer D of the warp-shed C D shown in Fig. 3

and so that the outer layer C of this warpshed is. substantially of the same density, that is, of the same number of threads,'as the layer D. Into this warp-shed C D a thin spun weft-thread 4 is picked according to the ordinary manner of weaving. The shed layers C and D are then reversed in position and the weft-thread A is beaten up whereupon one or more similar weftthreads 4 may be woven into the fabric in the same manner. After a plurality of the weft threads 4 have been woven into the fabric a shed similar to that shown in Fig. 2 is again opened up and another compound weft-cord 3 is picked into place. In this manner compound-weft-cords 3 alternate each with a plurality of ordinary weftthreads 4. Fig. 3 indicates diagrammatically how this process of weaving forces the kinks 2 outwardly between their tying warpthreads at so as to form the finish F for the fabric. Fig. 4 also clearly illustrates this feature, the tying warp threads at being shown in section as is likewise the underlying body fabric E shown diagrammatically in section.

, In Fig. 5 there is illustrated a section along the warp showing the irregular disposition of the kinks 3 and the tension-cores 1 and weft-threads 4 in section.

It is, of course, to be understood that Figs. 4 and- 5 are diagrammatic, merely in dicating the relative disposition of the body fabric E and the kinks 3 of the compoundweft-cord.

In Fig. 6 the general appearance in per-- spective of the finisheu fabric is illustrated, although for the true appearance thereof, reference should be had to the accompanying sample, which forms a part of this application.

It is, of course, to be understood that the weave of the bod-y fabric E may be varied as desired to accord with any suitable pattern, provided its mat is sufficiently thick to prevent the penetration of the kinks 2 and to cause their outward projection from the finished surface of the fabric through the looking or tying warp-threads a.

For a more detailed description of a com pound-weft-cord suitable for use in the manufacture of this fabric, and a method of making the same, reference should be had to my co-pending applications, Serials.

637,983 and 637,985 filed on even date herewith.

What is claimed and what is desired to be secured by United States Letters Patent 1s:

1. A woven fabric imitating astrakhan, comprising a multiple shed-warp of thin threads; compound weft-cords, each comprising a thin straight tension core and a self-attached cover of twisted ornamental yarn of many times the thickness of said core and disposed about said core in a spiral of kinks, said kinks being irregularly spaced along said core and being of irregular size and shape and self-locked to said core by the untwist of said yarn and its kinky formation; one or more thin weft-threads alternating with each compound-weft-cord; and each compound-weft-cord being bound to the body fabric by the outer layer of a warpshed, the threads of which are spaced to approximate the average,spacing of the kinks formed upon said compound-weft-cord for holding the core of said compound-weft-cord substantially straight by allowing the kinks thereon to curl upwardly between said threads to approximate the irregular curly appearance of genuine astrakhan.

2. A woven fabric imitating astrakhan, comprising a multiple-shed-warp of thin threads; compound-weft-cords, each comprising a thin straight tensioncore and a self-attached cover of twisted ornamental yarn of many times the thickness of said core and disposed about said core in a spiral of kinks, said kinks being irregularly spaced along said core and being of irregular size and shape and self-locked to said core by the untwist of said yarn and its kinky formation; one or more thin weft-threads alternating with each compound-weft-cord; and each compound-weftcord being bound to the body fabric by the outer layer of a warpshed, the threads of which are spaced to approximate the average spacing of the kinks formed on said compound-weft-cord but which adjust themselves longitudinally of said compound weft-cords to engage the core of said compound-weft-cord between the irregularly spaced kinks thereof for holding the core of said compound-weft cord substantially straight, but allowing said kinks to curl upwardly between said warp-threads to approximate the irregular curly appearance of genuine astrakhan.

In witness whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

NATHAN 'GARFINKLE.

Witnesses:

LEONARD DAY, JOHN E. EASTMOND.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. G.

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