US1011915A - Combined tailor's drafting chart and square. - Google Patents

Description

P. GARBONARA.

COMBINED TAILORS DRAFTING CHART AND SQUARE. APPLICATION FILED NOV. :25, 1910.

1,01 1,915. Y Patented Dec.19,1911.

6 SHEETSSHEET 1.

WITNESSES: f INVENTOR EM MW MW @M ,4 TTOR/VEY COLUMBIA PLANOunAPl-l I147.I vusumamu, n. c.

P. GARBONARA.

COMBINED TAI LOR'S DRAPTING CHART AND SQUARE. AIfPLIOATION FILED 11011.25, 1910.

1,01 1,915. Patented Dec.19,1911.

5 BHEETS-SHEET 2.

W/TNESSES: v l/Vl/E/VTUR ATTORNEY COLUMBIA PIANOGRAPH CO.,WASHINGTDN, n. :4

P. OARBONARA. COMBINED TAILORS DRAFTING CHART AND SQUARE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 25, 1910.

Patented Dec. 19,1911.

6 SHEBTSSHEBT 3.

W/T/VE88E8: l/WEN 70/? 44 p B Z V ATTORNEY P. GARBONARA.

COMBINED TAILOR'S DRAFTING CHART AND SQUARE.

APPLICATION FILED NOV. 25, 1910.

Patented Dec. 19, 1911.

5 SHEETSSHEBT 4.

IN l/EIV TOR WWW y Z ATTORNEY WITNESSES P. CARBONARA.

COMBINED TAILOR'S DRAFTING CHART AND SQUARE. APPLICATION FILED NOV. 25, 1910.

1,01 1,915, Patented Dec. 19, 1911.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

at WITNESSES? INVENTOR L A TTORNEY PAOLO GARBON'ARA, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

COMBINED TAILOR/S DRAFTING CHART AND SQUARE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed November 25, 1910.

Patented Dec. 19, 1911.

Serial No. 594,020.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, PAOLO OARBONARA, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Combined Tailors Drafting Charts and Squares, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to new and useful improvements in tailors drafting charts and squares combined.

It refers particularly to a chart so proportioned and graduated that all the points necessary to lay off the various parts of a garment are so located on the square or chart, that it is unnecessary to shift the chart in transferring these points "to the pattern or other material.

The primary object of my invention is to provide a device thatwill so simplify the drafting of a garment that a person somewhat familiar with the art of tailoring will be able to draft a garment with very little instruction.

The construction and method of using this device will appear in the course of the following description, in which reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, like numbers and letters of reference, designating like parts throughout the several views, wherein:

F igure'l shows one side of my improved device and Fig. 2 shows the reverse side, Fig. 3 shows an ordinary sack coat, Fig. 4 is a sleeve, Fig. 5 shows a cutaway coat, and Fig. 6 is a double breast coat all of which have been drafted by means of this chart.

In the practical embodiment of my device I use a chart of cardboard or other suitable material, with slots and graduated scales as shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

Referring again to Fig. 8, the chart 25 is shown in position with the various points necessary to draft a sack coat transferred from the chart to the pattern. These pointers are located on the pattern according to the size of the garment to be drafted, as for instance it should be desired to draft a size 40 coat a mark will be made on the pattern alongside 20 of the scale Q which locates the point Q thereby determining the width of the back part of the neck, a mark is made alongside 20 of the scale B to locate the point B which is the forepart shoulder, a mark alongside 20 of the scale C locates point C for the back part shoulder, a mark alongside 20 of the scale D locates D for the width of the back, a mark alongside 20 of scale H locates point H for the depth of the armhole, a mark alongside 20 of the scale K locates point K for the width of the bottom of the forepart. To locate the distance from the point C to the point 7 for the length of the back part shoulder allow one half inch for a 48 size increasing this amount by one eighth inch for each size below 48, the size 48 being the largest size in general use is taken as a basis; it having been found from practical experience that the inch, above mentioned, is suitable for a 48 size; and, to find a 40 size which has been used in this specification, it is necessary to increase the inch by inch eight times thereby making the allowance for a 40 size, 12 inch, a mark alongside 20 of the scale 1 locates the point 1' for the width of the armhole, a mark alongside 20 of the scale 2 locates the point 2 for the front part neck, a mark alongside 20 of the scale 3 locates the point 3 for the roll of the collar, a mark alongside 20 of the scale 4 locates the point 4 for the front of the coat. The points that have thus been located are then connected by lines as is clearly shown in Fig. 3.

To draft a double breast coat as shown in Fig. 6 the various points are located similar to the sack coat shown in Fig. 3 with the exception that scales 5 and 6 are used instead of scale 4.

Referring to Fig. 4 which shows the draft for a sleeve, the chart 25 is here shown located on its reverse side to that used for the body of the coat, and the various points are also located according to the size of garment it is desired to draft, and as above mentioned for a 40 size garment a mark is to be made on the pattern alongside 20 of the scale L to locate the point L for the width of the bottom of the sleeve, a mark alongside 20 of the scale M locates point M for the width of the top of the sleeve, a mark alongside 20 of the scale N locates point N to shape the top of the sleeve, a mark alongside 20 of the scale 0 locates point 0 for the length of the armhole and a mark alongside 20 of the scale P locates the point P for the length of the sleeve.

To draft a cutaway coat reference is to be had to Fig. 5 in which it is shown that the upper front part is laid out similar to the sack coat shown in Fig. 3 and for a 40 size a mark alongside 20 of scale E locates point E for the width of the side body, the width of the side body is equal to the dis tance E to G, a mark alongside 20 of scale G locates point G for the depth of the back part shoulder, G is located at the intersection of a line squared out from G and a line squared down from C a mark alongside 20 of scale F locates point F for the width of the back part, to locate point 9 make a mark one inch forward (toward front part) of the point G and one half inch below G this locates the armhole, a mark alongside 20 of scale I locates point I for the length of waist and shape of the back, from the intersection of the lines E and 1 lower one half inch and draw the line H for the side body, a mark alongside 20 of scale J locates point J for the length of the front.

hat I claim, is:

1. A tailors drafting instrument comprising a substantially triangular body having an arm extending from one of its apexes and having one of its sides in alinement with an edge of said arm, said body having a graduated scale thereon extending onto said arm.

2. A tailors drafting instrument comprising a substantially triangular body having a right angle and having an arm extending from one of its apexes and having one of its sides in alinement with an edge of said arm, said body having a graduated scale thereon extending onto said arm, the other side having a graduated scale thereon, and the hypotenuse having a graduated scale thereon.

3. A tailors drafting instrument comprising a substantially triangular body having an arm extending from one of its apexes and having one of its sides in alinementwith an edge of said arm, said body having a graduated scale thereon extending on to said arm, said arm having an edge adjoin ing the hypotenuse of the angular body and having a graduated scale thereon arranged in parallel alinement with the first said graduated scale.

Signed at New ,York in the county of New York and State of New York this 21st day of November A. D. 1910.

PAOLO CARBONARA.

Vitiiesses ABRAHAM NovIoK, HARRY JACOBSON'.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents. Washington, D. G.

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