TWI681779B - Composition and process for semi-permanent straightening of the hair - Google Patents
Composition and process for semi-permanent straightening of the hair Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Description
本發明係關於用於頭髮之半永久性拉直之組合物及方法。 The present invention relates to compositions and methods for semi-permanent hair straightening.
用於拉直捲曲或捲結頭髮之已知方法涉及使用拉直燙髮器。燙髮器之高溫導致頭髮之角蛋白中之氫鍵斷裂,從而達成暫時性拉直。藉由水分之作用再次形成氫鍵,使得頭髮由於空氣濕度而隨著時間返回至其初始形狀,且在洗滌頭髮之後拉直效果消失。 Known methods for straightening curled or curled hair involve the use of straightening irons. The high temperature of the hair iron causes the hydrogen bonds in the keratin of the hair to break, thereby achieving temporary straightening. Hydrogen bonds are formed again by the action of moisture, causing the hair to return to its original shape over time due to air humidity, and the straightening effect disappears after washing the hair.
頭髮之形狀很大程度上由鍵聯頭髮角蛋白之兩個半胱胺酸部分的二硫鍵決定。為達成頭髮之更加永久的定形,已知方法涉及藉由含硫化物或硫基的還原劑之作用使二硫鍵斷裂。在已使頭髮形成所需形狀之後,藉由施用諸如過氧化氫之氧化劑來形成新的二硫鍵,從而固定頭髮之形狀。然而,使用該等藥劑會引起對於頭髮之損害。 The shape of the hair is largely determined by the disulfide bonds that link the two cysteine moieties of the hair keratin. To achieve a more permanent fixation of hair, known methods involve breaking disulfide bonds by the action of reducing agents containing sulfides or sulfur groups. After the hair has been formed into the desired shape, new disulfide bonds are formed by applying an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, thereby fixing the shape of the hair. However, the use of these agents can cause damage to the hair.
作為此種頭髮定形處理之一個實例,參考GB 1 416 564,其描述包含巰基乙酸鹽或硫羥乳酸鹽作為還原劑之還原組合物及包含過氧化氫作為氧化劑之固定組合物。還原組合物可進一步包含諸如乙醛酸之酸的鹽作為緩衝劑。 As an example of such hair styling treatment, reference is made to GB 1 416 564, which describes a reducing composition comprising mercaptoacetate or thiol lactate as a reducing agent and a fixed composition comprising hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent. The reducing composition may further comprise a salt of an acid such as glyoxylic acid as a buffer.
作為上述兩步還原法及氧化法之替代選擇,可藉由諸如氫氧化鈉之鹼劑在約11或更高之pH值下的作用使二硫橋鍵分解。在此等條件下,二硫化物(或胱胺酸)部分可在硫之消除過程中經歷歧化反應, 且分解為α-β-不飽和脫氫-丙胺酸部分及半胱胺酸部分。在已使頭髮形成所需形狀之後,脫氫-丙胺酸部分及半胱胺酸部分形成硫醚鍵且組合為羊毛硫胺酸,從而穩定頭髮之拉直狀態。由於二硫化物或胱胺酸部分轉化為羊毛硫胺酸部分,因此此種使用鹼劑之頭髮拉直方法亦稱為羊毛硫胺酸化(lanthionization)。 As an alternative to the above two-step reduction method and oxidation method, the disulfide bridge can be decomposed by the action of an alkaline agent such as sodium hydroxide at a pH of about 11 or higher. Under these conditions, the disulfide (or cystine) moiety can undergo a disproportionation reaction during the elimination of sulfur, And it is decomposed into α-β-unsaturated dehydro-alanine and cysteine. After the hair has been formed into a desired shape, the dehydro-alanine portion and the cysteine portion form a thioether bond and combine into lanthionine, thereby stabilizing the straightened state of the hair. Since the disulfide or cystine portion is converted to lanthionine portion, this method of hair straightening using an alkaline agent is also called lanthionization.
兩階段還原/氧化方法及羊毛硫胺酸化方法二者均依賴於在頭髮蛋白質中使二硫鍵斷裂且形成新鍵,從而產生頭髮形狀之不可逆變化。此意謂此等方法可達成永久性拉直,其中頭髮之經處理部分維持其形狀,且拉直效果僅由於頭髮之生長而消失。 Both the two-stage reduction/oxidation method and the lanthionine acidification method rely on breaking disulfide bonds and forming new bonds in the hair protein, thereby producing irreversible changes in hair shape. This means that these methods can achieve permanent straightening, in which the treated part of the hair maintains its shape, and the straightening effect only disappears due to the growth of the hair.
最近,已發現被稱為化妝品組合物中之緩衝劑的具有鄰近於羧基之羰基的羧酸(諸如乙醛酸)與機械拉直方式組合使用時可具有半永久性拉直效果。 Recently, it has been found that a carboxylic acid having a carbonyl group adjacent to a carboxyl group (such as glyoxylic acid) called a buffer in a cosmetic composition may have a semi-permanent straightening effect when used in combination with a mechanical straightening method.
就此而言,WO 2011/104282描述了一種用於半永久性頭髮拉直之方法,其涉及施用包含α-酮酸之組合物至頭髮上,使該組合物與頭髮接觸15至120分鐘,乾燥頭髮及藉由拉直燙髮器在200±50℃之溫度下拉直頭髮。 In this regard, WO 2011/104282 describes a method for semi-permanent hair straightening, which involves applying a composition comprising α-keto acid to the hair, bringing the composition into contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, drying the hair and Straighten the hair by straightening the hair iron at a temperature of 200±50℃.
此外,WO 2012/010351描述一種藉由施用乙醛酸溶液與機械拉直組合,使用拉直燙髮器在200±30℃之溫度下來將捲曲、捲結或波浪狀頭髮半永久性拉直的處理。在處理之後,據稱頭髮持續至少六次連續洗滌仍保持其形狀。 In addition, WO 2012/010351 describes a treatment for semi-permanently straightening curly, curly or wavy hair by applying a combination of glyoxylic acid solution and mechanical straightening using a straightening iron at a temperature of 200±30°C. After the treatment, the hair is said to maintain its shape for at least six consecutive washings.
EP 0685 219描述一種適用作頭髮經受電燙波處理之前的預處理劑之組合物,該組合物包含成膜陽離子、陰離子及/或兩性聚合物、兩性界面活性劑、有機酸及C2至C4醇,且不含陽離子界面活性劑。 EP 0685 219 describes a composition suitable for use as a pretreatment agent before hair undergoes electroscaling treatment, the composition comprising a film-forming cationic, anionic and/or amphoteric polymer, amphoteric surfactant, organic acid and C2 to C4 alcohol, And does not contain cationic surfactants.
本發明提供一種頭髮拉直組合物,其具有4或更小之pH值且包含以下項: -至少一種以整個組合物之重量計總濃度在0.1至40重量%範圍內的式(I)之羧酸及/或其水合物及/或其鹽:R-CO-COOH 式(I) The present invention provides a hair straightening composition having a pH of 4 or less and including the following items: -At least one carboxylic acid and/or hydrate and/or salt thereof of formula (I) with a total concentration in the range of 0.1 to 40% by weight based on the weight of the entire composition: R-CO-COOH formula (I)
其中R係選自氫、COOH、CN、視情況經取代之C1-C10烷基、視情況經取代之C2-C10烯基、視情況經取代之C2-C10炔基、視情況經取代之C3-C10環烷基、視情況經取代之C6-C10芳基或5-10員視情況經取代之雜芳基,其中該烷基之視情況存在之取代基係選自鹵素、羥基、胺基及C1-C4烷氧基,且其他基團之視情況存在之取代基係選自鹵素、羥基、胺基、C1-C4烷基及C1-C4烷氧基;及-至少一種選自非離子、陰離子、陽離子及兩性聚合物且具有至少500mPa.s,較佳為1,000mPa.s,更佳為1,500mPa.s且更佳為2,000mPa.s之黏度(藉由布氏黏度計用合適之軸在20℃下以水中1重量%之聚合物濃度以10rpm持續1分鐘量測得知)的聚合增稠劑。 Where R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C 1 -C 10 alkyl, optionally substituted C 2 -C 10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C 2 -C 10 alkynyl, Optionally substituted C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C 6 -C 10 aryl, or optionally substituted heteroaryl of 5-10 members, where the alkyl is optionally substituted The group is selected from halogen, hydroxy, amine and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, and the optionally present substituents of other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxy, amine, C 1 -C 4 alkyl and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy; and-at least one selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers and having at least 500mPa. s, preferably 1,000mPa. s, preferably 1,500mPa. s and more preferably 2,000mPa. Polymeric thickener of s viscosity (measured by a Brookfield viscometer using a suitable shaft at 20°C with a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water at 10 rpm for 1 minute).
可以單部分組合物形式,或以包含部分A及B之兩部分組合物形式調配組合物,分開儲存部分A及B且將其在施用至頭髮之前混合,其中部分A包含式(I)之羧酸且部分B包含芳香劑、界面活性劑或調理組分中之至少一者,且其中聚合增稠劑包含於部分A及部分B之任一者或二者中。對兩部分組合物觀測到改良之芳香劑穩定性。 The composition can be formulated as a one-part composition, or as a two-part composition comprising parts A and B, parts A and B are stored separately and mixed before application to the hair, where part A comprises the carboxylic acid of formula (I) The acid and part B contain at least one of a fragrance, a surfactant, or a conditioning component, and wherein the polymeric thickener is included in either or both part A and part B. Improved fragrance stability was observed for the two-part composition.
在另一態樣中,本發明提供一種用於半永久性頭髮拉直之方法,其包含按以下順序進行之以下步驟:(a)施用頭髮拉直組合物至頭髮上,該組合物可為如上文所定義之單部分組合物或作為部分A及B之混合物的兩部分組合物;(b)使該組合物留在頭髮上1至120分鐘;(c)視情況沖洗頭髮;(d)乾燥頭髮;(e)藉由具有180±50℃之表面溫度的燙髮器處理頭髮;及 (f)視情況沖洗及/或用洗髮劑洗頭髮且乾燥。 In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for semi-permanent hair straightening, comprising the following steps performed in the following order: (a) applying a hair straightening composition to the hair, the composition may be as described above The defined one-part composition or two-part composition as a mixture of parts A and B; (b) leave the composition on the hair for 1 to 120 minutes; (c) rinse the hair as appropriate; (d) dry the hair ; (E) Treat the hair with a hair iron with a surface temperature of 180±50°C; and (f) Rinse and/or shampoo and dry as appropriate.
本發明之其他態樣係關於該組合物用於拉直頭髮之用途及一種用於頭髮拉直、包含拉直組合物及拉直燙髮器之套組。 Other aspects of the invention relate to the use of the composition for straightening hair and a kit for hair straightening, comprising a straightening composition and a straightening iron.
根據本發明之頭髮拉直組合物可滿足以下要求(1)、(2)或(1)+(2)中之一者:(1)頭髮拉直組合物不含在分子中具有兩個C5-C24直鏈或分支鏈、飽和或不飽和烴基之四級銨鹽,該等烴基可相同或不同且可視情況經一或多個選自鹵素、羥基、胺基及C1-C4烷氧基之取代基取代;(2)頭髮拉直組合物不為具有13.0wt.%乙醛酸單水合物(對應於10.4wt.%乙醛酸)及1.6wt.%脫氫三仙膠且具有1.5之pH值(藉由NaOH調節)的水溶液。 The hair straightening composition according to the present invention can satisfy one of the following requirements (1), (2) or (1)+(2): (1) The hair straightening composition does not contain two Cs in the molecule 5 -C 24 quaternary ammonium salt of linear or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, these hydrocarbon groups may be the same or different and may be selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amine group and C 1 -C 4 according to one or more Substitution with alkoxy substituents; (2) Hair straightening composition does not have 13.0 wt.% glyoxylic acid monohydrate (corresponding to 10.4 wt.% glyoxylic acid) and 1.6 wt.% dehydrogenated gum And an aqueous solution with a pH value of 1.5 (adjusted by NaOH).
最近已發現諸如乙醛酸之式(I)的羧酸提供顯著的半永久性拉直效果。然而,在施用酸之後在高溫下用拉直燙髮器處理頭髮時存在會發生產生過多煙霧之問題。此問題在先前技術中尚未得到解決。 It has recently been found that carboxylic acids of formula (I) such as glyoxylic acid provide a significant semi-permanent straightening effect. However, there is a problem that excessive smoke generation occurs when the hair is treated with a straightening iron at a high temperature after applying acid. This problem has not been solved in the prior art.
本發明人已發現可藉由組合式(I)之羧酸與特定聚合增稠劑來解決此問題,該組合亦在施用期間提供改良之頭髮手感。 The inventors have found that this problem can be solved by combining the carboxylic acid of formula (I) with a specific polymeric thickener, which combination also provides an improved hair feel during application.
拉直組合物包含至少一種下式(I)之羧酸作為活性組分以用於達成拉直效果:R-CO-COOH 式(I) The straightening composition contains at least one carboxylic acid of the following formula (I) as an active component for achieving a straightening effect: R-CO-COOH formula (I)
其中R係選自氫、COOH、CN、視情況經取代之C1-C10烷基、視情況經取代之C2-C10烯基、視情況經取代之C2-C10炔基、視情況經取代之C3-C10環烷基、視情況經取代之C6-C10芳基或5-10員視情況經取 代之雜芳基,其中該烷基之視情況存在之取代基係選自鹵素、羥基、胺基及C1-C4烷氧基,且其他基團之視情況存在之取代基係選自鹵素、羥基、胺基、C1-C4烷基及C1-C4烷氧基。 Where R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C 1 -C 10 alkyl, optionally substituted C 2 -C 10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C 2 -C 10 alkynyl, Optionally substituted C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C 6 -C 10 aryl, or optionally substituted heteroaryl of 5-10 members, where the alkyl is optionally substituted The group is selected from halogen, hydroxy, amine and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy, and the optionally present substituents of other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxy, amine, C 1 -C 4 alkyl and C 1 -C 4 alkoxy.
作為較佳實例,可提及乙醛酸、丙酮酸及2-酮基丁酸。 As preferred examples, glyoxylic acid, pyruvic acid and 2-ketobutyric acid can be mentioned.
式(I)之羧酸可以其游離酸形式包含於組合物中。鄰近於酸之酸基的羰基亦可以水合形式存在。除游離酸形式及其水合物之外,亦可使用酸或水合物之鹽。 The carboxylic acid of formula (I) may be included in the composition in its free acid form. The carbonyl group adjacent to the acid group of the acid can also exist in a hydrated form. In addition to the free acid form and its hydrates, salts of acids or hydrates can also be used.
當在含水介質中提供組合物時可形成式(I)之酸的水合物。舉例而言,水溶液中之乙醛酸(H-CO-COOH)幾乎以水合物(H-C(OH)2-COOH)形式定量存在。此外,水合物亦可縮合為二聚體。 When the composition is provided in an aqueous medium, a hydrate of the acid of formula (I) can be formed. For example, glyoxylic acid (H-CO-COOH) in an aqueous solution is almost quantitatively present in the form of hydrate (HC(OH) 2 -COOH). In addition, hydrates can also be condensed into dimers.
亦可使用式(I)之羧酸的鹽。作為實例,可提及鹼金屬鹽,諸如鈉鹽或鉀鹽;鹼土金屬鹽,諸如鎂鹽或鈣鹽;及三級及四級銨鹽。 Salts of carboxylic acids of formula (I) can also be used. As examples, mention may be made of alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and tertiary and quaternary ammonium salts.
在本發明中,乙醛酸、其鹽及其水合形式為更佳的式(I)之羧酸。 In the present invention, the glyoxylic acid, its salt and its hydrated form are more preferably the carboxylic acid of formula (I).
至少一種式(I)之羧酸及/或其水合物及/或其鹽的濃度在以拉直組合物之總重量計0.1至40重量%,較佳為0.5至40重量%,更佳為2.5至40重量%,更佳為0.5至30重量%,更佳為1至25重量%且更佳為2.5至20重量%,且更佳為2.5至14重量%範圍內。 The concentration of at least one carboxylic acid of formula (I) and/or hydrate and/or salt thereof is 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably based on the total weight of the straightening composition 2.5 to 40% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1 to 25% by weight and more preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 2.5 to 14% by weight.
如上所述,習知永久性頭髮定形/拉直技術係基於二硫橋鍵之再組織且涉及藉由使用基於硫的還原劑或鹼劑使二硫鍵斷裂,接著使頭髮定形且形成新鍵(亦即分別由氧化劑或硫醚鍵之作用形成的二硫鍵)。相比於此等永久性拉直方法,本發明並不利用二硫鍵之斷裂及呈新形狀之鍵的固定。因此,本發明之拉直組合物並不需要存在基於硫的還原劑,且較佳不含基於硫的還原劑。然而,以全部組合物計至多2重量%基於硫的還原劑並不干擾組合物之拉直效能。因此,組合物通常具有小於2重量%基於硫的還原劑,且較佳為不含基於硫的還 原劑。 As mentioned above, the conventional permanent hair styling/straightening technique is based on the reorganization of disulfide bridges and involves breaking the disulfide bonds by using sulfur-based reducing agents or alkaline agents, followed by setting the hair and forming new bonds (That is, the disulfide bond formed by the action of an oxidant or a sulfide bond, respectively). Compared to these permanent straightening methods, the present invention does not utilize the breakage of disulfide bonds and the fixation of bonds with new shapes. Therefore, the straightening composition of the present invention does not require the presence of a sulfur-based reducing agent, and preferably contains no sulfur-based reducing agent. However, up to 2% by weight of the sulfur-based reducing agent based on the total composition does not interfere with the straightening performance of the composition. Therefore, the composition generally has less than 2% by weight of a sulfur-based reducing agent, and is preferably free of sulfur-based reducing agents. Original agent.
拉直組合物包含至少一種選自非離子、陰離子、陽離子及兩性聚合物之聚合增稠劑,其具有至少500mPa.s的黏度,藉由布氏黏度計用合適之軸在水中1重量%之聚合物濃度下及在20℃下,例如以10rpm持續1分鐘量測得知。 The straightening composition comprises at least one polymeric thickener selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, which has at least 500 mPa. The viscosity of s is measured by a Brookfield viscometer with a suitable shaft at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20°C, for example at 10 rpm for 1 minute.
一或多種增稠劑之總濃度通常在以拉直組合物之重量計0.01至15wt.%,較佳為0.05至10wt.%,更佳為0.1至5wt.%,且更佳為0.5至2wt.%範圍內。 The total concentration of one or more thickeners is usually 0.01 to 15 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, and more preferably 0.5 to 2 wt.% based on the weight of the straightening composition .% range.
通常用於頭髮化妝品組合物領域中之任何化妝品上可接受的非離子增稠聚合物可用作本發明組合物中之聚合增稠劑。該組合物可包括單種或多種非離子聚合物,且可進一步包括一或多種與該非離子聚合物組合之陰離子、陽離子及/或兩性聚合物。 Any cosmetically acceptable nonionic thickening polymer commonly used in the field of hair cosmetic compositions can be used as the polymeric thickener in the composition of the present invention. The composition may include a single or multiple nonionic polymers, and may further include one or more anionic, cationic, and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with the nonionic polymer.
非離子聚合物之實例包括中性多醣及其衍生物,諸如醚或酯。就此而言,可提及中性膠,諸如瓜爾膠、羥丙基瓜爾膠;纖維素醚,諸如羥乙基纖維素(HEC)、甲基羥乙基纖維素(MHEC)、乙基羥乙基纖維素(EHEC)、甲基乙基羥乙基纖維素(MEHEC)、羥基丙基纖維素(HPC)、羥基丙基甲基纖維素(HPMC);其疏水性改質衍生物,諸如HM-EHEC、澱粉及糊精。 Examples of nonionic polymers include neutral polysaccharides and their derivatives, such as ethers or esters. In this regard, neutral gums such as guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum; cellulose ethers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), methylhydroxyethyl cellulose (MHEC), ethyl Hydroxyethyl cellulose (EHEC), methyl ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (MEHEC), hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC), hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (HPMC); its hydrophobic modified derivatives, Such as HM-EHEC, starch and dextrin.
諸如MHEC或MEHEC之纖維素醚較佳。作為市售實例,可提及STRUCTURE® CEL 12000 M(MEHEC)(購自AkzoNobel,數字指示黏度,cps)。 Cellulose ethers such as MHEC or MEHEC are preferred. As a commercially available example, STRUCTURE® CEL 12000 M (MEHEC) (available from AkzoNobel, numerically indicated viscosity, cps) may be mentioned.
通常用於頭髮化妝品組合物領域中之任何化妝品上可接受的陰離子增稠聚合物可用作本發明組合物中之聚合增稠劑。該組合物可包 括單種或多種陰離子聚合物,且可進一步包括一或多種與該陰離子聚合物組合之非離子、陽離子及/或兩性聚合物。 Any cosmetically acceptable anionic thickening polymer commonly used in the field of hair cosmetic compositions can be used as the polymeric thickener in the compositions of the present invention. The composition can be included It includes single or multiple anionic polymers, and may further include one or more nonionic, cationic, and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with the anionic polymer.
陰離子聚合物之實例包括陰離子多醣及其衍生物,諸如海藻酸鹽、果膠、玻尿酸鹽;陰離子膠,諸如三仙膠、脫氫三仙膠、羥丙基三仙膠、***膠、卡拉牙膠或黃蓍膠;或陰離子纖維素衍生物,諸如羧甲基纖維素(CMC)。 Examples of anionic polymers include anionic polysaccharides and their derivatives, such as alginate, pectin, and hyaluronate; anionic gums, such as Sanxian gum, dehydrogenated Xanthan gum, hydroxypropyl Sanxian gum, gum arabic, carrageenan Gum or tragacanth gum; or anionic cellulose derivatives, such as carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC).
其他實例包括合成陰離子聚合物,諸如聚丙烯酸或含有丙烯酸以及中性乙烯及/或丙烯酸單體的共聚物,及其鹽,諸如聚丙烯酸鈉。 Other examples include synthetic anionic polymers, such as polyacrylic acid or copolymers containing acrylic acid and neutral ethylene and/or acrylic monomers, and salts thereof, such as sodium polyacrylate.
考慮到pH值穩定性,三仙膠、羥丙基三仙膠及脫氫三仙膠尤佳。 Considering the stability of pH value, Sanxian Gum, Hydroxypropyl Sanxian Gum and Dehydrogenated Sanxian Gum are particularly preferred.
通常用於頭髮化妝品組合物領域中之任何化妝品上可接受的陽離子增稠聚合物可用作本發明組合物中之聚合增稠劑。該組合物可包括單種或多種陽離子聚合物,且可進一步包括一或多種與陽離子聚合物組合之非離子、陰離子及/或兩性聚合物。 Any cosmetically acceptable cationic thickening polymer commonly used in the field of hair cosmetic compositions can be used as the polymeric thickener in the composition of the present invention. The composition may include a single or multiple cationic polymers, and may further include one or more nonionic, anionic, and/or amphoteric polymers in combination with the cationic polymer.
陽離子聚合物為具有諸如四級銨之陽離子基團或能夠離子化為陽離子基團之基團(諸如一級、二級或三級胺基)的聚合物。陽離子聚合物通常為在聚合物鏈之側鏈中含有胺基或銨基之聚合物,或包括二烯丙基四級銨鹽作為構成單元之聚合物。 Cationic polymers are polymers having cationic groups such as quaternary ammonium or groups capable of being ionized into cationic groups such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine groups. The cationic polymer is usually a polymer containing an amine group or an ammonium group in the side chain of the polymer chain, or a polymer including diallyl quaternary ammonium salt as a constituent unit.
在陽離子聚合物中,具有三級胺基或四級銨基之聚合物較佳,且具有四級銨基之聚合物更佳,因為此等聚合物不易於與式(I)之羧酸的羰基縮合。相反,具有一級胺基之聚合物不太佳,因為該等聚合物可能與式(I)之羧酸進行縮合反應且因此降低了其有效濃度。 Among the cationic polymers, polymers having tertiary amine groups or quaternary ammonium groups are preferred, and polymers having quaternary ammonium groups are more preferred, because these polymers are not easily compatible with carboxylic acids of formula (I) Carbonyl condensation. In contrast, polymers with primary amine groups are not very good, because these polymers may undergo condensation reactions with carboxylic acids of formula (I) and thus reduce their effective concentration.
較佳陽離子聚合物之實例包括陽離子化纖維素、陽離子澱粉、陽離子瓜爾膠、具有四級銨側鏈之乙烯或(甲基)丙烯酸聚合物或共聚 物、(甲基)丙烯酸酯/胺基丙烯酸酯共聚物、胺取代聚丙烯酸酯交聯聚合物、二烯丙基四級銨鹽之聚合物或共聚物及四級銨化聚乙烯吡咯啶酮。 Examples of preferred cationic polymers include cationized cellulose, cationic starch, cationic guar gum, ethylene or (meth)acrylic acid polymers or copolymers with quaternary ammonium side chains Substances, (meth)acrylate/aminoacrylate copolymers, amine-substituted polyacrylate cross-linked polymers, polymers or copolymers of diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and quaternary ammonium polyvinylpyrrolidone .
作為具有四級銨側鏈之乙烯或(甲基)丙烯酸聚合物或共聚物的一個實例,可提及聚(2-甲基丙烯醯氧基乙基三甲基氯化銨)(聚四級銨-37)。 As an example of an ethylene or (meth)acrylic polymer or copolymer having a quaternary ammonium side chain, mention may be made of poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (polyquaternary Ammonium-37).
四級銨化聚乙烯吡咯啶酮之具體實例包括自乙烯吡咯啶酮(VP)及甲基丙烯酸二甲胺基乙基酯及硫酸二乙酯之共聚物合成的四級銨鹽(聚四級銨-11)。 Specific examples of the quaternary ammonium polyvinylpyrrolidone include quaternary ammonium salts (polyquaternary) synthesized from copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethyl sulfate Ammonium-11).
作為(甲基)丙烯酸酯/胺基丙烯酸酯共聚物之一個實例,可提及丙烯酸酯/胺基丙烯酸酯/C10-30烷基PEG-20衣康酸酯共聚物。 As an example of (meth)acrylate/aminoacrylate copolymer, mention may be made of acrylate/aminoacrylate/C10-30 alkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer.
作為胺取代聚丙烯酸酯交聯聚合物之一個實例,可提及聚丙烯酸酯-1交聯聚合物。 As an example of the amine-substituted polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, polyacrylate-1 cross-linked polymer can be mentioned.
陽離子化纖維素之具體實例包括藉由添加縮水甘油基三甲基氯化銨至羥乙基纖維素中而獲得之四級銨鹽的聚合物(聚四級銨-10),及羥乙基纖維素/二甲基二烯丙基氯化銨共聚物(聚四級銨-4),及羥乙基纖維素與三甲基銨取代之環氧化物及月桂基二甲基銨取代之環氧化物反應而成的聚合四級銨鹽(聚四級銨-67)。 Specific examples of cationized cellulose include a polymer of quaternary ammonium salt (polyquaternium-10) obtained by adding glycidyl trimethylammonium chloride to hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxyethyl Cellulose/dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride copolymer (polyquaternium-4), and hydroxyethyl cellulose and trimethylammonium substituted epoxide and lauryldimethylammonium substituted ring The polymerized quaternary ammonium salt (polyquaternary ammonium-67) formed by the reaction of oxides.
在此等實例中,聚四級銨-37尤佳。 In these examples, polyquaternium-37 is particularly preferred.
兩性聚合物含有陽離子基團及陰離子基團二者。自結構觀點來看,兩性聚合物可藉由另外引入陰離子基團或輔單體自所述之陽離子聚合物類型中之任一者衍生。 Amphoteric polymers contain both cationic and anionic groups. From a structural point of view, amphoteric polymers can be derived from any of the cationic polymer types described by additionally introducing anionic groups or co-monomers.
如同陽離子聚合物,兩性聚合物亦可提供頭髮調理效果,特定言之在正淨電荷情況下。 Like cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers can also provide hair conditioning effects, specifically under positive net charge conditions.
通常用於頭髮化妝品組合物領域中之任何化妝品上可接受的兩 性增稠聚合物可用作本發明組合物中之聚合增稠劑。該組合物可包括單種或多種兩性聚合物,且可進一步包括一或多種與兩性聚合物組合之非離子、陰離子及/或陽離子聚合物。 Generally used in any cosmetically acceptable two in the field of hair cosmetic compositions Thickening polymers can be used as polymeric thickeners in the compositions of the present invention. The composition may include a single or multiple amphoteric polymers, and may further include one or more nonionic, anionic, and/or cationic polymers in combination with the amphoteric polymer.
作為兩性聚合物之實例,可提及羧基改質或磺酸鹽改質陽離子多醣,諸如羧甲基聚葡萄胺糖。 As examples of amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of carboxy-modified or sulfonate-modified cationic polysaccharides, such as carboxymethyl polyglucosamine.
其他實例包括陽離子乙烯或(甲基)丙烯酸單體與(甲基)丙烯酸之共聚物,諸如二甲基二烯丙基氯化銨/丙烯酸共聚物(聚四級銨-22)。 Other examples include cationic ethylene or copolymers of (meth)acrylic monomers and (meth)acrylic acid, such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride/acrylic acid copolymer (polyquaternium-22).
作為兩性聚合物,聚四級銨-22尤佳。 As an amphoteric polymer, polyquaternium-22 is particularly preferred.
拉直組合物可包含界面活性劑。作為界面活性劑,可使用陽離子界面活性劑、非離子界面活性劑、兩性界面活性劑及陰離子界面活性劑中之任一者。亦有可能使用呈組合形式之兩種或兩種以上類型的界面活性劑。 The straightening composition may contain a surfactant. As the surfactant, any one of a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and an anionic surfactant can be used. It is also possible to use two or more types of surfactants in combination.
陽離子界面活性劑較佳為具有一個C8-C24烷基殘基及三個C1-C4烷基殘基之單長鏈烷基四級銨鹽。 The cationic surfactant is preferably a single long-chain alkyl quaternary ammonium salt having one C 8 -C 24 alkyl residue and three C 1 -C 4 alkyl residues.
較佳地,至少一種單烷基四級銨界面活性劑係選自具有以下通式之化合物:
其中R8為具有8-22個C原子之飽和或不飽和、分支鏈或直鏈烷基鏈或R12-CO-NH-(CH2)n- Where R 8 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain with 8-22 C atoms or R 12 -CO-NH-(CH 2 ) n-
其中R12為具有7-21個C原子之飽和或不飽和、分支鏈或直鏈烷基鏈且n為1-4之整數,或R12-CO-O-(CH2)n- Where R 12 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain having 7-21 C atoms and n is an integer of 1-4, or R 12 -CO-O-(CH 2 ) n-
其中R12為具有7-21個C原子之飽和或不飽和、分支鏈或直鏈烷基鏈且n為1-4之整數,且R9、R10及R11彼此獨立地為具有1至4個碳原子之烷基、具有1至4個碳原子之羥基烷基鏈或者乙氧基或丙氧基數目在1至4範圍內變化的乙氧基或丙氧基,且X為氯離子、溴離子、甲基硫酸根或乙基硫酸根。 Where R 12 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl chain having 7-21 C atoms and n is an integer of 1-4, and R 9 , R 10 and R 11 are independently of each other having 1 to An alkyl group of 4 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or an ethoxy group or a propoxy group whose number of ethoxy or propoxy groups varies in the range of 1 to 4, and X is a chloride ion , Bromide, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.
合適之陽離子界面活性劑為例如可單獨地或彼此混合地使用之長鏈四級銨化合物,諸如鯨蠟基三甲基氯化銨、肉豆蔻基三甲基氯化銨、山萮基三甲基氯化銨、三甲基鯨蠟基溴化銨、硬脂基三甲基氯化銨、硬脂三甲基氯化銨及硬脂醯胺丙基三甲基氯化銨。 Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds that can be used alone or mixed with each other, such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, myristyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethyl Ammonium chloride, trimethyl cetyl ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
非離子界面活性劑之實例包括聚氧-C1-4伸烷基C8-24烷基醚、聚氧-C1-4伸烷基C8-24伸烷基烯基醚、高級(C12-C24)脂肪酸蔗糖酯、聚甘油C8-24脂肪酸酯、高級(C12-C24)脂肪酸單或二乙醇醯胺、聚氧乙烯硬化蓖麻油、聚氧乙烯脫水山梨糖醇C8-24脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯山梨醇C8-24脂肪酸酯、C8-24烷基醣類界面活性劑、C8-24烷基氧化胺及C8-24烷基醯胺基氧化胺。 Examples of nonionic surfactants include polyoxy-C 1-4 alkylene C 8-24 alkyl ethers, polyoxy-C 1-4 alkylene C 8-24 alkylene alkenyl ethers, higher (C 12 -C 24 ) fatty acid sucrose ester, polyglycerol C 8-24 fatty acid ester, higher (C 12 -C 24 ) fatty acid mono- or diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil, polyoxyethylene sorbitan C 8-24 fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitol C 8-24 fatty acid ester, C 8-24 alkyl sugar surfactant, C 8-24 alkyl amine oxide and C 8-24 alkyl amide group Amine oxide.
兩性界面活性劑之實例包括基於咪唑啉之界面活性劑、基於羰基甜菜鹼之界面活性劑、基於醯胺基甜菜鹼之界面活性劑、基於磺基甜菜鹼之界面活性劑、基於羥基磺基甜菜鹼之界面活性劑及基於醯胺基磺基甜菜鹼之界面活性劑。 Examples of amphoteric surfactants include imidazoline-based surfactants, carbonyl betaine-based surfactants, amide-based betaine-based surfactants, sulfobetaine-based surfactants, hydroxysulfo-based sugar beets Alkali surfactants and surfactants based on amide sulfobetaine.
陰離子界面活性劑之實例包括烷基苯磺酸鹽、烷基或烯基醚硫酸鹽、烷基或烯基硫酸鹽、烯烴磺酸鹽、烷磺酸鹽、飽和或不飽和脂肪酸鹽、烷基或烯基醚羧酸鹽、α-磺酸基脂肪酸鹽、N-醯胺基酸型界面活性劑、磷酸單酯或二酯型界面活性劑及磺酸基琥珀酸鹽。烷基醚硫酸鹽之實例包括聚氧乙烯烷基醚硫酸鹽。此等界面活性劑之陰離子殘基的相對離子之實例包括諸如鈉離子或鉀離子之鹼金屬離子;諸如 鈣離子或鎂離子之鹼土金屬離子;銨離子;及具有1至3個烷醇基團(各具有2或3個碳原子)之烷醇胺(例如單乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、三乙醇胺或三異丙醇胺)。 Examples of anionic surfactants include alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl or alkenyl ether sulfates, alkyl or alkenyl sulfates, olefin sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid salts, alkyl groups Or alkenyl ether carboxylate, α-sulfonate fatty acid salt, N-amide acid type surfactant, phosphate monoester or diester type surfactant and sulfosuccinate. Examples of alkyl ether sulfates include polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates. Examples of relative ions of anionic residues of these surfactants include alkali metal ions such as sodium ions or potassium ions; such as Alkaline earth metal ions of calcium or magnesium ions; ammonium ions; and alkanolamines with 1 to 3 alkanol groups (each having 2 or 3 carbon atoms) (eg monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine or triiso Propanolamine).
可單獨地或以兩種或兩種以上種類之組合形式使用界面活性劑。當添加界面活性劑至拉直組合物中時,界面活性劑之含量通常為以拉直組合物之總重量計0.05至10wt.%,更佳為0.1至5wt.%。 The surfactant may be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds. When a surfactant is added to the straightening composition, the content of the surfactant is usually 0.05 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the straightening composition.
拉直組合物可視情況包含適合於施用至頭髮之調理組分。調理組分通常為可黏附至頭髮且改進手感及梳理性之油或其他聚合物。 The straightening composition optionally includes conditioning components suitable for application to the hair. The conditioning component is usually an oil or other polymer that can adhere to the hair and improve the feel and combability.
當使用調理組分時,其總含量較佳為以拉直組合物之總重量計0.01至30wt.%,更佳為0.05至20wt.%,且更佳為0.1%至10wt.%。 When the conditioning component is used, its total content is preferably 0.01 to 30 wt.%, more preferably 0.05 to 20 wt.%, and more preferably 0.1% to 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the straightening composition.
調理組分之實例通常包括聚矽氧、高級醇及有機調理油(例如烴油、聚烯烴及脂肪酸酯),以及陽離子界面活性劑及陽離子或兩性聚合物,包括上文所述者。 Examples of conditioning components generally include polysiloxanes, higher alcohols, and organic conditioning oils (such as hydrocarbon oils, polyolefins, and fatty acid esters), as well as cationic surfactants and cationic or amphoteric polymers, including those described above.
組合物可包含單一類型之調理組分,或兩種或兩種以上之組合。 The composition may contain a single type of conditioning component, or a combination of two or more.
為改良使用之感覺,拉直組合物較佳含有聚矽氧。聚矽氧之實例包括二甲基聚矽氧烷及經改質之聚矽氧(例如經胺基改質之聚矽氧、經氟改質之聚矽氧、經醇改質之聚矽氧、經聚醚改質之聚矽氧、經環氧基改質之聚矽氧、聚噁唑啉聚矽氧(如JP A 2-276824中所述)或經烷基改質之聚矽氧),但二甲基聚矽氧烷、經聚醚改質之聚矽氧及經胺基改質之聚矽氧較佳。 In order to improve the feeling of use, the straightening composition preferably contains polysiloxane. Examples of polysiloxanes include dimethyl polysiloxane and modified polysiloxane (e.g. amine-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, alcohol-modified polysiloxane) , Polysiloxane modified with polyether, Polysiloxane modified with epoxy group, Polyoxazoline polysiloxane (as described in JP A 2-276824) or Polysiloxane modified with alkyl group ), but dimethyl polysiloxane, polyether modified polysiloxane and amine modified polysiloxane are preferred.
二甲基聚矽氧烷可為任何環狀或非環狀二甲基矽氧烷聚合物,且其實例包括SH200系列、BY22-019、BY22-020、BY11-026、B22-029、BY22-034、BY22-050A、BY22-055、BY22-060、BY22-083、 FZ-4188(全部來自Dow Corning Toray Co.,Ltd.)、KF-9008、KM-900系列、MK-15H及MK-88(全部來自Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.,Ltd.)。 The dimethylpolysiloxane can be any cyclic or acyclic dimethylsiloxane polymer, and examples thereof include SH200 series, BY22-019, BY22-020, BY11-026, B22-029, BY22- 034, BY22-050A, BY22-055, BY22-060, BY22-083, FZ-4188 (all from Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.), KF-9008, KM-900 series, MK-15H and MK-88 (all from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
經聚醚改質之聚矽氧可為任何具有聚氧伸烷基之聚矽氧,且構成聚氧伸烷基之基團可為氧基伸乙基或氧基伸丙基。更具體之實例包括KF-6015、KF-945A、KF-6005、KF-6009、KF-6013、KF-6019、KF-6029、KF-6017、KF-6043、KF-353A、KF-354A、KF-355A(全部來自Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.,Ltd.)、FZ-2404、SS-2805、FZ-2411、FZ-2412、SH3771M、SH3772M、SH3773M、SH3775M、SH3749、SS-280X系列、BY22-008 M、BY11-030及BY25-337(全部來自Dow Corning Toray Co.,Ltd.)。 The polysiloxane modified with polyether can be any polysiloxane with polyoxyalkylene, and the group constituting the polyoxyalkylene can be oxyethyl or oxypropyl. More specific examples include KF-6015, KF-945A, KF-6005, KF-6009, KF-6013, KF-6019, KF-6029, KF-6017, KF-6043, KF-353A, KF-354A, KF -355A (all from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), FZ-2404, SS-2805, FZ-2411, FZ-2412, SH3771M, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M, SH3749, SS-280X series, BY22-008 M, BY11-030 and BY25-337 (all from Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.).
經胺基改質之聚矽氧可為任何具有胺基或銨基之聚矽氧,且其實例包括全部或一部分末端羥基經甲基或其類似基團封端的經胺基改質之聚矽氧油,及不具有封端末端之胺基封端二甲基聚矽氧烷。經胺基改質之聚矽氧之較佳實例可為由下式表示之化合物:
其中R'表示羥基、氫原子或RX;RX表示具有1至20個碳原子之經取代或未經取代的單價烴基;D表示RX、R"-(NHCH2CH2)mNH2、ORX或羥基;R"表示具有1至8個碳原子之二價烴基;m表示0至3之數目;p及q表示數目,其呈數目平均值形式之總和等於或大於10且小於20,000,較佳等於或大於20且小於3000,更佳等於或大於30且小於1000,且更佳等於或大於40且小於800。 Where R'represents a hydroxyl group, a hydrogen atom or R X ; R X represents a substituted or unsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms; D represents R X , R"-(NHCH 2 CH 2 ) m NH 2 , OR X or hydroxyl group; R" represents a divalent hydrocarbon group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms; m represents a number of 0 to 3; p and q represent numbers, the sum of which in the form of the average number is equal to or greater than 10 and less than 20,000 , Preferably equal to or greater than 20 and less than 3000, more preferably equal to or greater than 30 and less than 1000, and more preferably equal to or greater than 40 and less than 800.
經胺基改質之聚矽氧的合適之市售產物的具體實例包括經胺基改質之聚矽氧油,諸如SF8452C、SS-3551(全部來自Dow Corning Toray Co.,Ltd.)、KF-8004、KF-867S及KF-8015(全部來自Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.,Ltd.);及胺基封端二甲基聚矽氧烷乳液,諸如SM8704C、SM8904、BY22-079、FZ-4671及FZ-4672(全部來自Dow corning Toray Co.,Ltd.)。 Specific examples of suitable commercially available products of amine-modified polysiloxane include amine-modified polysiloxane oils, such as SF8452C, SS-3551 (all from Dow Corning Toray Co., Ltd.), KF-8004, KF-867S and KF-8015 (all from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.); and amine-terminated dimethyl polysiloxane emulsions, such as SM8704C, SM8904, BY22-079, FZ-4671 and FZ-4672 (all from Dow corning Toray Co., Ltd.).
在本發明之拉直組合物中之此等聚矽氧的總含量通常為以拉直組合物之總重量計0.1至20wt.%,較佳為0.2%至10wt.%且更佳為0.5至5wt.%。 The total content of these polysiloxanes in the straightening composition of the present invention is generally 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt.%, and more preferably 0.5 to, based on the total weight of the straightening composition. 5wt.%.
為改良使用時的感覺,拉直組合物亦可包括有機調理油。宜用作調理組分之有機調理油較佳為低黏度及水不溶性的液體,且係選自具有至少10個碳原子之烴油、聚烯烴、脂肪酸酯、脂肪酸醯胺、聚伸烷二醇及其混合物。如在40℃下量測得知之此種有機調理油的黏度較佳為1至200mPa.s,更佳為1至100mPa.s,且更佳為2至50mPa.s。關於黏度之測定,可使用毛細管黏度計。 To improve the feel during use, the straightening composition may also include organic conditioning oils. Organic conditioning oils suitable as conditioning components are preferably low-viscosity and water-insoluble liquids and are selected from hydrocarbon oils having at least 10 carbon atoms, polyolefins, fatty acid esters, fatty acid amides, and polyalkylene dicarbonates Alcohols and their mixtures. As measured at 40°C, the viscosity of this organic conditioning oil is preferably 1 to 200 mPa. s, more preferably 1 to 100mPa. s, and more preferably 2 to 50mPa. s. For the determination of viscosity, a capillary viscometer can be used.
烴油之實例包括環烴、線性脂族烴(飽和或不飽和)及分支鏈脂族烴(飽和或不飽和),且亦包括其聚合物或混合物。線性烴油較佳具有12至19個碳原子。分支鏈烴油包括烴聚合物,且較佳具有超過19個碳原子。 Examples of hydrocarbon oils include cyclic hydrocarbons, linear aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated) and branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons (saturated or unsaturated), and also include polymers or mixtures thereof. The linear hydrocarbon oil preferably has 12 to 19 carbon atoms. Branched chain hydrocarbon oils include hydrocarbon polymers and preferably have more than 19 carbon atoms.
聚烯烴為液體聚烯烴,更佳為液體聚-α-烯烴,且更佳為氫化液體聚-α-烯烴。藉由使具有4至14個碳原子,且較佳為6至12個碳原子之烯烴單體聚合來製備本文中所用之聚烯烴。 The polyolefin is a liquid polyolefin, more preferably a liquid poly-α-olefin, and more preferably a hydrogenated liquid poly-α-olefin. The polyolefin used herein is prepared by polymerizing an olefin monomer having 4 to 14 carbon atoms, and preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms.
脂肪酸酯可例如為具有至少10個碳原子之脂肪酸酯。此種脂肪酸酯之實例包括具有烴鏈、衍生自脂肪酸及醇之酯(例如單酯、多元醇酯或二及三羧酸酯)。此等脂肪酸酯之烴基可具有諸如醯胺基或烷氧基之另一相容官能基作為取代基,或烴基可共價鍵結至彼等官能基。更特定言之,宜使用具有帶有10至22個碳原子之脂肪酸鏈之脂肪 酸的烷基及烯基酯、具有衍生自具有10至22個碳原子之烷基及/或烯基醇之脂族鏈的脂族醇之羧酸酯、及其混合物。此等較佳脂肪酸酯之具體實例包括異硬脂酸異丙酯、月桂酸己酯、月桂酸異己酯、棕櫚酸異己酯、棕櫚酸異丙酯、十四烷酸異丙酯、油酸癸酯、油酸異癸酯、硬脂酸十六烷酯、硬脂酸癸酯、己二酸二(十六烷酯)、乳酸月桂酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乳酸鯨蠟酯、硬脂酸油醇酯、油酸油醇酯、豆蔻酸油醇酯、乙酸月桂酯、丙酸鯨蠟酯及己二酸二油酯。 The fatty acid ester may be, for example, a fatty acid ester having at least 10 carbon atoms. Examples of such fatty acid esters include esters having a hydrocarbon chain, derived from fatty acids and alcohols (for example, monoesters, polyhydric alcohol esters, or di- and tricarboxylic acid esters). The hydrocarbon group of these fatty acid esters may have another compatible functional group such as an amide group or an alkoxy group as a substituent, or the hydrocarbon group may be covalently bonded to those functional groups. More specifically, fats with fatty acid chains with 10 to 22 carbon atoms are preferred Alkyl and alkenyl esters of acids, carboxylic acid esters of aliphatic alcohols with aliphatic chains derived from alkyl and/or alkenyl alcohols having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of these preferred fatty acid esters include isopropyl isostearate, hexyl laurate, isohexyl laurate, isohexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, oleic acid Decyl ester, isodecyl oleate, cetyl stearate, decyl stearate, di(hexadecyl adipate), lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, stearin Oleic acid oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl myristate, lauryl acetate, cetyl propionate and dioleate adipic acid.
其他合適之油組分為天然油,諸如石蠟油及天然三酸甘油酯。 Other suitable oil components are natural oils, such as paraffin oil and natural triglycerides.
合適之天然三酸甘油酯為摩洛哥堅果油、牛油樹油、卡力特樹油(karite oil)、橄欖油、杏仁油、鱷梨油、蓖麻子油、椰子油、棕櫚油、芝麻油、花生油、葵花油、桃核油、麥胚油、澳洲堅果油、澳洲胡桃油、夜櫻草油、荷荷芭油、蓖麻油、大豆油、羊毛脂、百香果精華油、黑小茴香油、琉璃苣油、葡萄籽油、***籽油、夏威夷核果油及玫瑰果油。 Suitable natural triglycerides are argan oil, shea oil, karite oil, olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, castor bean oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil , Sunflower oil, peach core oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, soybean oil, lanolin, passion fruit essence oil, black cumin oil, glaze Lettuce oil, grape seed oil, hemp seed oil, Hawaiian stone fruit oil and rose hip oil.
可以兩種或兩種以上種類之組合形式使用有機調理油,且總濃度通常在以拉直組合物之總重量計0.1至20wt.%,較佳為0.2至10wt.%,更佳為0.5至5wt.%範圍內。 The organic conditioning oil can be used in a combination of two or more kinds, and the total concentration is usually 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to Within 5wt.%.
自改良觸感及穩定性之觀點來看,拉直組合物亦可含有具有8個碳原子或更多之高級醇。通常,高級醇具有8至22個碳原子,且較佳為16至22個碳原子。其具體實例包括鯨蠟醇、硬脂醇、山萮醇及其混合物。 From the viewpoint of improving touch and stability, the straightening composition may also contain a higher alcohol having 8 carbon atoms or more. Generally, the higher alcohol has 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Specific examples thereof include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
可以兩種或兩種以上種類之組合形式使用高級醇,且其含量通常為以拉直組合物之總重量計0.1至20wt.%,較佳為0.2至10wt.%,更佳為0.5至5wt.%。 The higher alcohol can be used in a combination of two or more kinds, and its content is usually 0.1 to 20 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 10 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. based on the total weight of the straightening composition .%.
另外,多元醇可適當地包含於組合物中。聚伸烷二醇之實例包 括聚乙二醇及聚丙二醇,且可使用二者之混合物,或亦可使用環氧乙烷及環氧丙烷之共聚物。 In addition, a polyhydric alcohol may be appropriately included in the composition. Example package of polyalkylene glycol Including polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, and a mixture of the two may be used, or a copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may also be used.
本發明之拉直組合物可適當地呈增稠之溶液或凝膠、乳液、乳膏、糊狀物及慕絲形式。 The straightening composition of the present invention may suitably be in the form of a thickened solution or gel, emulsion, cream, paste and mousse.
組合物之總黏度通常取決於聚合增稠劑之類型及量,且如在20℃下藉由布氏黏度計,用合適之軸,在諸如以10rpm持續1分鐘之條件下量測得知,通常為至少1000mPa*s。若以增稠之溶液、凝膠或乳液形式提供組合物,則黏度通常在1,000至25,000,較佳為2,500至15,000mPa*s範圍內。 The total viscosity of the composition generally depends on the type and amount of the polymeric thickener, and is measured by a suitable shaft, such as at 10 rpm for 1 minute at 20°C, using a Brookfield viscometer, usually At least 1000mPa*s. If the composition is provided in the form of a thickened solution, gel or emulsion, the viscosity is usually in the range of 1,000 to 25,000, preferably 2,500 to 15,000 mPa*s.
為提供充足拉直效果,如直接及在環境溫度(25℃)下量測得知,拉直組合物的pH值為4.0或更小,較佳在1至3.5範圍內,更佳為1至3且更佳為1.5至3。可使用已知鹼溶液,較佳用氫氧化鈉溶液調節組合物之pH值。 In order to provide a sufficient straightening effect, as measured directly and at ambient temperature (25°C), the pH of the straightening composition is 4.0 or less, preferably in the range of 1 to 3.5, more preferably 1 to 3 and more preferably 1.5 to 3. Known alkaline solutions can be used, preferably sodium hydroxide solution to adjust the pH of the composition.
可以包含以下成分之凝膠形式調配較佳拉直組合物: The preferred straightening composition can be formulated in the form of a gel containing the following ingredients:
(凝膠調配物1) (Gel formulation 1)
重量% Weight%
2至20 乙醛酸; 2 to 20 glyoxylic acid;
0.1至2 陰離子增稠聚合物,較佳為三仙膠或羥丙基三仙膠或脫氫三仙膠; 0.1 to 2 anionic thickening polymer, preferably Sanxian gum or hydroxypropyl Sanxian gum or dehydrogenated Sanxian gum;
0.1至1 界面活性劑,諸如椰油醯胺丙基甜菜鹼或椰油基甜菜鹼、癸基葡糖苷、月桂醇醚硫酸鈉 0.1 to 1 surfactant, such as cocamidopropyl betaine or cocoyl betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium lauryl ether sulfate
下文描述替代性較佳凝膠調配物。 The alternative preferred gel formulations are described below.
(凝膠調配物2) (Gel formulation 2)
重量% Weight%
2至20 乙醛酸; 2 to 20 glyoxylic acid;
0.1至2 非離子增稠聚合物,較佳為MHEC或MEHEC; 0.1 to 2 nonionic thickening polymer, preferably MHEC or MEHEC;
0.1至1 界面活性劑,諸如椰油醯胺丙基甜菜鹼或椰油基甜菜鹼、癸基葡糖苷、月桂醇醚硫酸鈉或十六烷基三甲基氯化銨 0.1 to 1 surfactant, such as cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium lauryl ether sulfate or cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
(凝膠調配物3) (Gel formulation 3)
重量% Weight%
2至20 乙醛酸; 2 to 20 glyoxylic acid;
0.1至2 陽離子增稠聚合物,較佳為聚四級銨-37; 0.1 to 2 cationic thickening polymer, preferably polyquaternium-37;
0.1至1 界面活性劑,諸如椰油醯胺丙基甜菜鹼或椰油基甜菜鹼、癸基葡糖苷或十六烷基三甲基氯化銨 0.1 to 1 surfactant, such as cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine, decyl glucoside, or cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
(凝膠調配物4) (Gel formulation 4)
重量% Weight%
2至20 乙醛酸; 2 to 20 glyoxylic acid;
0.1至2 兩性增稠聚合物,較佳為聚四級銨-22; 0.1 to 2 amphoteric thickening polymer, preferably polyquaternium-22;
0.1至1 界面活性劑,諸如椰油醯胺丙基甜菜鹼或椰油基甜菜鹼、癸基葡糖苷、月桂醇醚硫酸鈉或十六烷基三甲基氯化銨 0.1 to 1 surfactant, such as cocamidopropyl betaine or coco betaine, decyl glucoside, sodium lauryl ether sulfate or cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
凝膠調配物1-4可視情況包含諸如界面活性劑及/或調理組分之其他成分。視需要可添加化妝品上可接受之添加劑,諸如防腐劑、染料及芳香劑。其餘為水。必要時可使用諸如氫氧化鈉之鹼調節凝膠調配物1-4之pH值至1.5至2.5。 Gel formulations 1-4 optionally include other ingredients such as surfactants and/or conditioning components. Add cosmetically acceptable additives such as preservatives, dyes and fragrances as needed. The rest is water. If necessary, a base such as sodium hydroxide can be used to adjust the pH of the gel formulations 1-4 to 1.5 to 2.5.
凝膠調配物1-4之黏度取決於增稠聚合物之類型及量,且如在20℃下藉由布氏黏度計,用合適之軸,在諸如以10rpm持續1分鐘之條件下量測,通常在1,000至25,000,較佳為2,500至15,000mPa*s範圍內。 The viscosity of the gel formulations 1-4 depends on the type and amount of thickening polymer, and as measured by a Brinell viscometer at 20°C, using a suitable shaft, such as at 10 rpm for 1 minute, It is usually in the range of 1,000 to 25,000, preferably 2,500 to 15,000 mPa*s.
為進一步增強易用性,亦可能以乳液形式調配拉直組合物。較佳乳液為與上文所述之凝膠調配物1-4含有相同量之相同成分,且另外包括脂肪醇,視情況與較佳為陽離子界面活性劑之界面活性劑及/或較佳為聚矽氧之油組分組合的凝膠乳液。尤佳乳液調配物描述如下。 To further enhance ease of use, it is also possible to formulate straightening compositions in the form of emulsions. Preferred emulsions are those containing the same amount of the same ingredients as the gel formulations 1-4 described above, and additionally include fatty alcohols, and optionally surfactants which are preferably cationic surfactants and/or are preferably Gel emulsion with a combination of silicone oil components. The formulations of Youjia emulsion are described below.
(乳液調配物1) (Emulsion formulation 1)
2至20wt.% 乙醛酸; 2 to 20wt.% glyoxylic acid;
0.1至2wt.% 陰離子增稠聚合物,較佳為三仙膠、羥丙基三仙膠或脫氫三仙膠; 0.1 to 2wt.% anionic thickening polymer, preferably Sanxian gum, hydroxypropyl Sanxian gum or dehydrogenated Sanxian gum;
1-5wt.% 脂肪醇,較佳為鯨蠟硬脂醇 1-5wt.% fatty alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol
1-5wt.% C12-24烷基三甲銨鹽,諸如山萮基三甲氯化銨 1-5wt.% C 12-24 alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt, such as behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
乳液調配物1可視情況包含諸如界面活性劑及/或調理組分之其他成分。視需要可添加化妝品上可接受之添加劑,諸如防腐劑、染料及芳香劑。其餘為水。必要時可使用諸如氫氧化鈉之鹼調節乳液調配物1之pH值至1.5至2.5。 The emulsion formulation 1 may optionally contain other ingredients such as surfactants and/or conditioning components. Add cosmetically acceptable additives such as preservatives, dyes and fragrances as needed. The rest is water. If necessary, the pH of the emulsion formulation 1 can be adjusted to 1.5 to 2.5 using a base such as sodium hydroxide.
在需要包括包含酯部分或其他酸敏感基團之化合物(諸如芳香劑或界面活性劑及/或調理組分)的情況下,有可能在上述pH值值下之儲存穩定性發生降低。此外,芳香劑化合物亦有可能與式(I)之羧酸的羰基發生非所需的反應,此會降低儲存穩定性。 In the case where it is necessary to include a compound containing an ester moiety or other acid-sensitive group, such as a fragrance or a surfactant and/or a conditioning component, there is a possibility that the storage stability at the above-mentioned pH value may be reduced. In addition, the fragrance compound may also react undesirably with the carbonyl group of the carboxylic acid of formula (I), which will reduce storage stability.
為避免該等問題,在此等狀況中可較佳以包含部分A及B之兩部分系統形式調配拉直組合物,分開儲存部分A及B且將其在施用至頭髮之前混合。 To avoid these problems, in these situations it may be preferable to formulate the straightening composition in the form of a two-part system containing parts A and B, store parts A and B separately and mix them before applying to the hair.
部分A包含式(I)之羧酸,而部分B包含芳香劑、界面活性劑及調理劑中之至少一者。可添加增稠劑及視情況存在之酸不敏感性界面活 性劑及調理劑至部分A、部分B或兩個部分中。 Part A contains the carboxylic acid of formula (I), and part B contains at least one of a fragrance, a surfactant, and a conditioning agent. Can add thickener and acid insensitive interface activity Sex agents and conditioning agents into part A, part B or both parts.
芳香劑可使用描述於Horst Surburg、Johannes Panten之Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials:Preparation,Properties and Uses(John Wiley & Sons,第5版,2006)、Steffen Arctander之Perfume and Flavor Chemicals,第1卷及第2卷(由作者於1969年出版)、Steffen Arctander之Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin(由作者於1961年出版)中的芳香劑原料。 The fragrance can use Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials: Preparation, Properties and Uses (John Wiley & Sons, 5th Edition, 2006) described in Horst Surburg, Johannes Panten, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals of Steffen Arctander, Volumes 1 and 2 Raw materials for fragrances in the volume (published by the author in 1969), Steffen Arctander's Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (published by the author in 1961).
自穩定性之觀點來看,芳香劑較佳為橘味,更佳為一或多種選自檸檬烯、蒎烯、檸檬醛、二氫月桂烯醇、2-甲基-4-苯基-1-戊醇(Pamplefleur)、檸檬油、橙油、柑橘油及萊姆油的具有橘味之芳香劑原料。具有橘味之芳香劑原料的含量較佳為芳香劑之5-100%,更佳為20-90%,更佳為30-80%。 From the viewpoint of stability, the fragrance is preferably orange-flavored, more preferably one or more selected from limonene, pinene, citral, dihydromyrcenol, 2-methyl-4-phenyl-1- Orange flavored raw materials for amyl alcohol (Pamplefleur), lemon oil, orange oil, citrus oil and lime oil. The content of the raw material of the fragrance with orange flavor is preferably 5-100% of the fragrance, more preferably 20-90%, and even more preferably 30-80%.
自相同原因之觀點來看,部分A較佳包含具有橘味之芳香劑,更佳為一或多種選自檸檬烯、蒎烯、檸檬醛、二氫月桂烯醇、2-甲基-4-苯基-1-戊醇、檸檬油、橙油、柑橘油及萊姆油的具有橘味之芳香劑原料。 From the viewpoint of the same reason, part A preferably contains a fragrance with orange flavor, more preferably one or more selected from limonene, pinene, citral, dihydromyrcenol, 2-methyl-4-benzene It is a raw material of orange-based fragrances based on 1--1-pentanol, lemon oil, orange oil, citrus oil and lime oil.
調節部分B之pH值以使得成分具有充足儲存穩定性,通常超過4且通常在4至8範圍內,而部分A之pH值小於4,通常在1至3.5範圍內。在混合部分A及B之後的最終pH值為4或更低,較佳為1至3.5。 The pH value of Part B is adjusted so that the ingredients have sufficient storage stability, usually exceeding 4 and usually in the range of 4 to 8, while the pH value of Part A is less than 4 and usually in the range of 1 to 3.5. The final pH after mixing parts A and B is 4 or lower, preferably 1 to 3.5.
較佳雙組分調配物描述如下。 Preferred two-component formulations are described below.
部分A:包含乙醛酸之凝膠組分 Part A: Gel component containing glyoxylic acid
5-40wt.% 乙醛酸; 5-40wt.% glyoxylic acid;
0.2至4wt.% 陰離子增稠聚合物,較佳為三仙膠、脫氫三仙膠或羥丙基三仙膠 0.2 to 4wt.% anionic thickening polymer, preferably Sanxian gum, dehydrogenated Sanxian gum or hydroxypropyl Sanxian gum
可視需要添加酸不敏感性組分。其餘為水,且必要時可藉由諸 如NaOH之鹼調節pH值至pH 1-3,較佳為1.5至2。 Acid-insensitive components can be added as needed. The rest is water, and if necessary For example, NaOH base adjusts the pH to pH 1-3, preferably 1.5 to 2.
部分B:包含酯化合物及/或芳香劑之調理組分 Part B: conditioning components containing ester compounds and/or fragrances
1-4wt.% 脂肪酸酯,較佳為棕櫚酸異丙酯或十四烷酸異丙酯 1-4wt.% fatty acid ester, preferably isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate
2-8% PEG-40氫化蓖麻油 2-8% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil
0-2% 芳香劑 0-2% fragrance
可視需要添加諸如界面活性劑或其他調理組分之其他成分。其餘為水。pH值為6-7。 Other ingredients such as surfactants or other conditioning components can be added as needed. The rest is water. The pH is 6-7.
分開儲存部分A及B且將其在使用之前以諸如1:1之預定義的比率混合。 Store parts A and B separately and mix them at a predefined ratio such as 1:1 before use.
部分A:包含乙醛酸之凝膠組分 Part A: Gel component containing glyoxylic acid
5-40wt.% 乙醛酸; 5-40wt.% glyoxylic acid;
0.2至4wt.% 陰離子增稠聚合物,較佳為三仙膠或脫氫三仙膠或羥丙基三仙膠 0.2 to 4 wt.% anionic thickening polymer, preferably Sanxian gum or dehydrogenated Sanxian gum or hydroxypropyl Sanxian gum
可視需要添加酸不敏感性組分。其餘為水,且必要時可藉由諸如NaOH之鹼調節pH值至pH 1-3,較佳為1.5至2。 Acid-insensitive components can be added as needed. The rest is water, and if necessary, the pH can be adjusted to pH 1-3 by a base such as NaOH, preferably 1.5 to 2.
部分B:包含酯化合物及/或芳香劑之呈乳液形式的調理組分 Part B: Conditioning components in the form of emulsions containing ester compounds and/or fragrances
1-8wt.% 脂肪醇,較佳為鯨蠟硬脂醇 1-8wt.% fatty alcohol, preferably cetearyl alcohol
1-8wt.% 聚矽氧油 1-8wt.% silicone oil
1-8wt.% C12-24烷基三甲銨鹽,諸如山萮基三甲氯化銨 1-8wt.% C 12-24 alkyl trimethyl ammonium salt, such as behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride
0.5-4wt.% 脂肪酸酯,較佳為棕櫚酸異丙酯或十四烷酸異丙酯 0.5-4wt.% fatty acid ester, preferably isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate
0-2% 芳香劑 0-2% fragrance
可視需要添加諸如界面活性劑或其他調理組分之其他成分。其餘為水。pH值為6-7。 Other ingredients such as surfactants or other conditioning components can be added as needed. The rest is water. The pH is 6-7.
分開儲存部分A及B且將其在使用之前以諸如1:1之預定義的比率混合。 Store parts A and B separately and mix them at a predefined ratio such as 1:1 before use.
本發明之頭髮處理方法利用諸如乙醛酸之式(I)的酸作為活性劑來達成了頭髮之半永久性拉直。並非藉由經由還原或強鹼之作用使二硫鍵斷裂而達成此方法之拉直效果。因此,不需要使用還原組合物或鹼鬆弛劑(羊毛硫胺酸化劑)。 The hair treatment method of the present invention uses an acid of formula (I) such as glyoxylic acid as an active agent to achieve semi-permanent hair straightening. The straightening effect of this method is not achieved by breaking the disulfide bond through the action of reduction or strong base. Therefore, there is no need to use a reducing composition or an alkali relaxer (lanthionine acidifying agent).
在本發明之方法的步驟(a)中,將拉直組合物施用於頭髮。頭髮與組合物之施用重量比為0.5:2至2:0.5,較佳為0.5:1至1:0.5,更佳為約1:1。 In step (a) of the method of the invention, the straightening composition is applied to the hair. The application weight ratio of the hair to the composition is 0.5:2 to 2:0.5, preferably 0.5:1 to 1:0.5, more preferably about 1:1.
在施用之後,使拉直組合物在45℃或更低之溫度下,較佳為在環境溫度下留在頭髮上1至120分鐘,較佳為5至90分鐘,更佳為10至60分鐘且更佳為15至45分鐘(步驟(b))。隨後,視情況將拉直組合物自頭髮沖洗掉(步驟(c))。 After application, the straightening composition is left on the hair at 45°C or lower, preferably at ambient temperature for 1 to 120 minutes, preferably 5 to 90 minutes, more preferably 10 to 60 minutes It is more preferably 15 to 45 minutes (step (b)). Subsequently, the straightening composition is rinsed from the hair as appropriate (step (c)).
在後續步驟(d)中,乾燥頭髮以避免在藉由燙髮器處理頭髮之後續步驟中產生過量蒸汽。通常,為此目的使用頭髮乾燥器。較佳在連續梳理下乾燥頭髮以防止頭髮纏結。在乾燥之後,用具有180±50℃,較佳為170至200℃之表面溫度的燙髮器處理頭髮。為此目的可使用常用拉直燙髮器(步驟(e))。最後,可視情況使用水沖洗及/或用洗髮劑洗頭髮且再次乾燥(步驟(f))。 In the subsequent step (d), the hair is dried to avoid excessive steam generation in the subsequent step of processing the hair by the hair iron. Generally, hair dryers are used for this purpose. It is preferred to dry the hair under continuous combing to prevent hair tangling. After drying, the hair is treated with a hair iron having a surface temperature of 180±50°C, preferably 170 to 200°C. For this purpose, a commonly used straightening iron can be used (step (e)). Finally, rinse the hair with water and/or shampoo as appropriate and dry again (step (f)).
現在藉由以下非限制性實例來說明本發明。 The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.
藉由混合以下成分來製備呈乳液形式之拉直組合物:
藉由混合以下成分來製備呈凝膠形式之拉直組合物:
藉由混合以下成分來製備呈膠凝乳液形式之拉直組合物:
藉由市售洗髮劑洗滌重約2g之髮束且吹乾。隨後,用約1g之拉直組合物對其進行處理,保持於室溫下約15分鐘且用頭髮乾燥器乾燥。隨後,用具有220℃之表面溫度的扁平燙髮器處理髮束6次。在燙髮期間觀測頭髮表面上之煙霧產生及燙髮器滑動。隨後由頭髮造型師自視覺上及/或主觀地評估髮束之經塗佈/未經塗佈的感覺。 Wash hair tresses weighing approximately 2 g with a commercially available shampoo and blow dry. Subsequently, it was treated with about 1 g of the straightening composition, kept at room temperature for about 15 minutes and dried with a hair dryer. Subsequently, the hair tress was treated 6 times with a flat curling iron having a surface temperature of 220°C. During the perm, observe the generation of smoke on the hair surface and the sliding of the hair iron. The hair stylist then visually and/or subjectively evaluates the coated/uncoated feel of the tress.
關於煙霧產生及使用簡易性/使用感覺評估本發明之參考實例及實例1及2之組合物的效能。結果顯示於下表1中。 Regarding smoke generation and ease of use/feel of use, the effectiveness of the compositions of Reference Examples and Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
如自結果顯而易見,根據本發明之實例1及2的組合物使得燙髮期間的煙霧產生有實質性減少,且考慮到施用期間的頭髮手感亦為有利的。相比於實例1之普通凝膠調配物,參考實例及實例2之乳液調配物有利於燙髮器之滑動。在實例2中,滑動得到顯著改良。 As is apparent from the results, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 of the present invention substantially reduce smoke generation during perm, and it is also advantageous in consideration of hair feel during application. Compared to the ordinary gel formulation of Example 1, the emulsion formulations of Reference Example and Example 2 are conducive to the sliding of the hair iron. In Example 2, the sliding was significantly improved.
部分A:凝膠組分(pH 1.5) Part A: Gel component (pH 1.5)
部分B:乳液組分(pH 6.5) Part B: Emulsion components (pH 6.5)
製備就芳香劑而言不同的部分B之五個變體(無芳香劑,芳香劑A-D)。 Five variants of Part B (without fragrance, fragrances A-D) were prepared that differed in terms of fragrance.
*芳香劑A-D:參見下表。 *Aromatics A-D: See the table below.
以1:1之比率混合部分A及B,產生具有1.6-1.7之pH值的混合凝膠-乳液組合物。 Mixing parts A and B at a ratio of 1:1 produces a mixed gel-emulsion composition with a pH of 1.6-1.7.
藉由比較新鮮混合物、在50℃下儲存一個月之混合物及在50℃下分開儲存一個月之組分的混合物之氣味來評估實例3之部分A及B及混合凝膠乳液的儲存穩定性。檢測部分B之若干個變體,其就芳香劑組分而言不同。由經培訓之技術員小組進行芳香劑評估。如在表2中獲得以下結果。 The storage stability of Part A and B of Example 3 and the mixed gel emulsion was evaluated by comparing the odor of the fresh mixture, the mixture stored at 50°C for one month and the mixture of the components stored separately at 50°C for one month. Several variants of Part B are detected, which differ in terms of fragrance components. A fragrance evaluation is conducted by a team of trained technicians. The following results are obtained as in Table 2.
部分A:凝膠組分(pH 1.5) Part A: Gel component (pH 1.5)
部分B:含有酯之調理組分(pH 5-7) Part B: conditioning components containing esters (pH 5-7)
製備部分B之兩個變體,分別包含棕櫚酸異丙酯及十四烷酸異丙酯作為酯組分。 Two variants of Part B were prepared, containing isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate as ester components.
以1:1之比率混合部分A及B,產生具有1.6-1.7之pH值的混合凝膠組合物。 Mixing parts A and B at a ratio of 1:1 produces a mixed gel composition with a pH of 1.6-1.7.
藉由就天然頭髮及經漂白之頭髮而言比較頭髮特性及燙髮器滑動來評估實例4之部分A及B的新鮮混合物或在40℃下老化三日之混合物在儲存穩定性方面的影響。以與如上關於測試實例1所述相同之方式處理髮束,且隨後對其進行沖洗及乾燥。獲得如呈現於表3中之以下結果。 The effect of the fresh mixture of parts A and B of Example 4 or the mixture aged for three days at 40°C on storage stability was evaluated by comparing hair characteristics and curling of the hair iron for natural hair and bleached hair. The tresses were treated in the same manner as described above for Test Example 1, and then rinsed and dried. The following results as presented in Table 3 were obtained.
該實例之pH值為1.8。 The pH value of this example is 1.8.
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