NL2030032B1 - Wolfberry capsule essence, preparation method and use thereof - Google Patents
Wolfberry capsule essence, preparation method and use thereof Download PDFInfo
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- NL2030032B1 NL2030032B1 NL2030032A NL2030032A NL2030032B1 NL 2030032 B1 NL2030032 B1 NL 2030032B1 NL 2030032 A NL2030032 A NL 2030032A NL 2030032 A NL2030032 A NL 2030032A NL 2030032 B1 NL2030032 B1 NL 2030032B1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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Abstract
The present disclosure relates to A61K, in particular to a wolfberry capsule essence, a preparation method and use thereof.
Description
P899/NLpd WOLFBERRY CAPSULE ESSENCE, PREPARATION METHOD AND USE THEREOF
TECHNICAL FIELD The present disclosure relates to A61K, in particular to a wolfberry capsule essence, a preparation method and use thereof.
BACKGROUND ART Wolfberry essences disclosed in the prior art fail to fully exert the function of active substances in the essences; the ma- Jority of wolfberry capsule essences contain preservatives, which increase the risk of skin allergy.
SUMMARY To solve the above problem, a first aspect of the present disclosure provides a wolfberry capsule essence, including the following raw materials: 0.5-2 parts by weight of a triglyceride analog, 1-10 parts by weight of a polydimethylsiloxane crosspoly- mer, 0.5-10 parts by weight of cyclohexasiloxane, 0.5-2.5 parts by weight of an emulsifier, 0.1-0.7 parts by weight of hydrolyzed procyanidine, 0.01-0.04 parts by weight of wolfberry extract, 2-5 parts by weight of an emollient, 0.1-0.6 parts by weight of ceramide 3, 0.1-2.6 parts by weight of nicotinamide, 0.003-0.1 parts by weight of blueberry essence, and 20-40 parts by weight of water. Triglyceride analog To make the wolfberry capsule essence well-dispersed, in- crease antioxidant activity thereof, improve skin permeability thereof, and remove greasy sense, in the present disclosure, the triglyceride analog is used to replace vegetable oil to serve as a base for moisturizing factors and active ingredients and realize stability and homogeneity. The triglyceride analog may be caprylic/capric triglyceride. The caprylic/capric triglyceride may be purchased from Guang- zhou Ketai Chemical Co., Ltd., with Cat# BASF Myritol 318. Polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer
In the present disclosure, the polydimethylsiloxane crosspol- ymer is used as a stable and functional cosmetic material, in or- der to make an oil phase and an aqueous phase in the wolfberry capsule essence form a reverse micelle, improve skin refreshing sense during the reuse of volatile oil components, increase over- all moisturizing sensation of the essence, and cooperate with wolfberry and other biological components in the essence to exhib- it certain viscosity and high skin moisture retentiveness and rap- idly perform permeation of active ingredients.
The polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer may be demethi- cone/vinyl demethicone crosspolymer.
Sources of the demethicone/vinyl demethicone crosspolymer are not particularly limited, but Guangzhou Keyixin Chemical Co., Ltd. may be mentioned, with a model of Velvesil E-Gel PMF.
Cyclopentasiloxane To enable the wolfberry essence to form a layer of water re- tention membrane during use, cyclopentasiloxane is used in the present disclosure to achieve efficient moisturizing and water re- tention functions, realize fast absorption and effective permea- tion of active ingredients, exert a matte wrinkle-eliminating ef- fect, and provide an extraordinary smooth touch.
The cyclopentasiloxane may be KP-545 purchased from Chemical Co., Ltd.
Cyclohexasiloxane To uniformly mix and disperse a composition in the wolfberry capsule essence and increase spreadability of the essence, vola- tile oil cyclohexasiloxane is used in the present disclosure.
The cyclohexasiloxane (CAS No. 540-97-6) may be purchased from Wuhan Kemike Biomedical Technology Co., Ltd.
Emulsifier To avoid water-oil separation in the composition of the wolf- berry essence, the emulsifier is used in the present disclosure to achieve excellent inclusiveness, and extend the release of active molecules; moreover, the emulsifier is optimized to achieve water retention, reduce stickiness, produce refreshing spreadability, and avoid serious greasiness during the use of traditional essence capsules.
The emulsifier may be cetyl polyethylene glycol (PEG) /polypropylene glycol (PPG)-10/1 dimethicone.
The cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone may be purchased from Kun- shan Shengan Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with Cat# 9957.
Hydrolyzed procyanidine To improve the oxidation resistance of the wolfberry essence and realize the functional application of anti-aging and wrinkle resistance, the hydrolyzed procyanidine is used in the present disclosure to realize the inhibition of collagenase activity and resist against skin allergy; meanwhile, the hydrolyzed procyani- dine with antibacterial property serves as a preservative assis- tant for the wolfberry essence, realizing no addition of preserva- tive and providing a moisturizing effect.
The hydrolyzed procyanidine may be purchased from Guangdong Zhongpeng Chemical Co., Ltd., with Cat# EFFECT HG100.
Wolfberry extract To increase antioxidant, anti-ultraviolet, and after-sun re- pair performance of the wolfberry essence, the wolfberry extract is added in the present disclosure to further regulate skin barri- er function protein to repair the skin barrier on the basis of ox- idation resistance and immunoregulation, so as to realize after- sun repair; flavonoids and total polyphenols realize a free radi- cal scavenging antioxidant effect and serve as a self-preservative of the composition.
The wolfberry extract may be Lycium barbarum extract.
Content of total flavonoids may be above 4.5 pg/mg and con- tent of total polyphenols may be above 85 ug/mg in the L. barbarum extract.
Raw material of the wolfberry extract may be from dried ripe fruits of L. barbarum purchased from Beijing Tongrentang Group Co., Ltd. The fruits are ultrasonically extracted with ethanol and water for 24 h, cycled twice, filtered under neutral condition, and freeze-dried to obtain a freeze-dried powder of the L. barba- rum extract.
Emollient To increase the emollience of the wolfberry essence during use, make the skin shinier, and repair sunburns, the emollient is used in the present disclosure to realize alleviating and preven- tive effects, strengthen the after-sun repair and functional re- covery of the skin, promote skin shininess, and make the skin smoother and more delicate; in the present disclosure, a natural emollient is used to increase the use safety of the wolfberry es- sence.
The emollient may be camellia seed oil.
The camellia seed oil may be extracted by physical pressing method.
A method for extracting the camellia seed oil by the physical pressing method is as follows: washing camellia seeds, putting the seeds in a vacuum presser for pressing, grinding, and filtering to obtain the camellia seed oil.
Ceramide 3 To increase the moisturizing property of the wolfberry es- sence, the ceramide 3 is used to strengthen the overall moisturiz- ing property of the essence; meanwhile, the emulsifier provides the ceramide 3 an excellent solvent environment, avoiding the problem that the ceramide 3 is insoluble in water.
The ceramide 3 may be purchased from Hubei Handafei Biotech- nology Co., Ltd., with Cat# 100403-19-8.
Nicotinamide To improve abilities of the wolfberry essence to repair the skin barrier and acne-prone skin, resisting against ultraviolet injury, and block the activation of ultraviolet ray against black- ening signals, nicotinamide is used in the present disclosure to achieve whitening and anti-aging effects.
The nicotinamide may be purchased from Shanghai Aladdin Bio- chemical Technology Co., Ltd., with Cat# 98-92-00 and a molecular weight of around 122.
Blueberry essence In the present disclosure, the blueberry essence is added as a fragrance component to confer a blueberry aroma on the wolfberry essence and enrich a sense of experience to experimenters.
The blueberry essence may be purchased from Jiangsu Caiwei Biotechnology Co., Ltd., with Cat# sjxhz.
A second aspect of the present disclosure provides a prepara-
tion method of the wolfberry capsule essence, including the fol- lowing steps: charging a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, cyclo- pentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, an emulsifier, hydrolyzed procy- anidine, wolfberry extract, an emollient, ceramide 3, nicotina- 5 mide, water, blueberry essence, and a triglyceride analog into a softgel encapsulation machine for filling and pelleting to obtain a semi-finished capsule; drying and cooling the semi-finished cap- sule, and controlling ambient wind speed at 1 m/s and wind temper- ature at 25°C to obtain a wolfberry capsule essence product.
Capsule shells may be provided in the softgel encapsulation machine.
The capsule shell is mainly composed of gelatin.
The gelatin may be purchased from Xinweilai Biological Prod- ucts (Chengdu) Co., Ltd., with CAS No. 2000-70-8. The grade is food grade.
A third aspect of the present disclosure provides use of the wolfberry capsule essence, where the wolfberry capsule essence is used in skin care products.
Beneficial effects The present disclosure provides a wolfberry capsule essence, a preparation method and use thereof. The present disclosure has the following beneficial effects: 1. The wolfberry capsule essence obtained by the present disclosure can fully exert the activity of wolfberry and other active components in the wolfberry capsule es- sence, and all components have mutual synergistic effects and ex- ert antioxidant, anti-ultraviolet, anti-aging, and after-sun re- pair functions in a mutual stable and uniform manner; 2. In the wolfberry capsule essence prepared, the emcllient camellia seed oil and the flavonoids and polyphenols in the L. barbarum extract function as preservatives, and natural substances and ingredients are used to improve the stability of the essence and reduce the risk of skin allergy; 3. the preparation method of the wolfberry capsule essence product is simple and efficient, more stable, and suitable for long-term preservation, solving the problem that ac- tive substances cannot be preserved for a long time; furthermore, capsule shells are so transmitting that internal color can be seen clearly, thereby reducing users’ coefficients of psychological risk bearing; 4. the emulsifier cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone is used to reduce viscosity and interacts with ceramide 3 and high- capacity volatile oil components to produce refreshing spreadabil- ity, avoiding a serious greasy sense during the use of traditional essence capsules; 5. the nicotinamide, the L. barbarum extract, and the active ingredients in the camellia seed oil have efficient moisturizing and water retention functions, which can realize fast absorption and effective permeation of active ingredients and achieve an optimal effect with less wolfberry capsule essence.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE EMBODIMENTS Examples Example 1 Example 1 provided a wolfberry capsule essence, including the following raw materials: 17 parts by weight of a triglyceride ana- log, 1 part by weight of a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, 10 parts by weight of cyclopentasiloxane, 8 parts by weight of cyclo- hexasiloxane, 2 parts by weight of an emulsifier, 0.5 parts by weight of hydrolyzed procyanidine, 0.04 parts by weight of wolf- berry extract, 4 parts by weight of an emollient, 0.5 parts by weight of ceramide 3, 2.2 parts by weight of nicotinamide, 0.05 parts by weight of blueberry essence, and 30 parts by weight of water. The triglyceride analog was caprylic/capric triglyceride. The polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer was demethicone/vinyl demethicone crosspolymer. The emulsifier was cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone. Raw materials of the wolfberry extract were from dried ripe fruits of L. barbarum purchased from Beijing Tongrentang Group Co., Ltd. The fruits were ultrasonically extracted with ethanol and water for 24 h, cycled twice, filtered under neutral condi- tion, and freeze-dried to obtain a freeze-dried powder of the IL. barbarum extract. The emollient was camellia seed oil. The camellia seed oil was extracted by physical pressing method. A method for extracting the camellia seed oil by the physical pressing method was as follows: camellia seeds were washed, put in a vacuum presser for pressing, ground, and filtered to obtain the camellia seed oil.
A preparation method of the wolfberry capsule essence includ- ed the following steps: a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, cy- clopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, an emulsifier, hydrolyzed procyanidine, wolfberry extract, an emollient, ceramide 3, nico- tinamide, water, blueberry essence, and a triglyceride analog were charged into a softgel encapsulation machine for filling and pel- leting to obtain a semi-finished capsule; the semi-finished cap- sule was dried and cooled, while controlling ambient wind speed at 1 m/s and wind temperature at 25°C, and a wolfberry capsule es- sence was obtained.
Capsule shells were provided in the softgel encapsulation ma- chine, which was composed of food grade gelatin.
Example 2 Example 2 provided a wolfberry capsule essence, including the following raw materials: 15 parts by weight of a triglyceride ana- log, 0.8 parts by weight of a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, 7 parts by weight of cyclopentasiloxane, 5 parts by weight of cyclo- hexasiloxane, 2.5 parts by weight of an emulsifier, 0.3 parts by weight of hydrolyzed procyanidine, 0.03 parts by weight of wolf- berry extract, 3 parts by weight of an emollient, 0.4 parts by weight of ceramide 3, 1.9 parts by weight of nicotinamide, 0.1 parts by weight of blueberry essence, and 20 parts by weight of water.
The triglyceride analog was caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer was demethicone/vinyl demethicone crosspolymer.
The emulsifier was cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone.
The emollient was camellia seed oil.
The camellia seed oil was extracted by physical pressing method.
A preparation method of the wolfberry capsule essence includ- ed the following steps: a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, cy- clopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, an emulsifier, hydrolyzed procyanidine, wolfberry extract, an emollient, ceramide 3, nico-
tinamide, water, blueberry essence, and a triglyceride analog were charged into a softgel encapsulation machine for filling and pel- leting to obtain a semi-finished capsule; the semi-finished cap- sule was dried and cooled, while controlling ambient wind speed at 1 m/s and wind temperature at 25°C, and a wolfberry capsule es- sence was obtained. Example 3 Example 3 provided a wolfberry capsule essence, including the following raw materials: 16 parts by weight of a triglyceride ana- log, 1.8 parts by weight of a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, 4 parts by weight of cyclopentasiloxane, 0.5 parts by weight of cy- clohexasiloxane, 2.3 parts by weight of an emulsifier, 0.6 parts by weight of hydrolyzed procyanidine, 0.02 parts by weight of wolfberry extract, 5 parts by weight of an emollient, 0.2 parts by weight of ceramide 3, 2.3 parts by weight of nicotinamide, 0.09 parts by weight of blueberry essence, and 40 parts by weight of water. The triglyceride analog was caprylic/capric triglyceride. The polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer was demethicone/vinyl demethicone crosspolymer. The emulsifier was cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone. The emollient was camellia seed oil. A preparation method of the wolfberry capsule essence includ- ed the following steps: a polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, cy- clopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, an emulsifier, hydrolyzed procyanidine, wolfberry extract, an emollient, ceramide 3, nico- tinamide, water, blueberry essence, and a triglyceride analog were charged into a softgel encapsulation machine for filling and pel- leting to obtain a semi-finished capsule; the semi-finished cap- sule was dried and cooled, while controlling ambient wind speed at 1 m/s and wind temperature at 25°C, and a wolfberry capsule es- sence was obtained. Performance testing
1. Appearance testing: Sample capsules were selected to ob- serve the shape, fullness, and color uniformity thereof and the capsule leakage with the naked eye in natural light. Judgment re- sults are shown in Table 1.
2. Refreshing testing: Five sample capsules were selected, crushed on the back of the hand forcibly, and applied, and their refreshing degree was felt sensuously under the undried condition. Judgment results are shown in Table 1.
3. Moisture-retaining capacity testing: At room temperature (23°C) and a relative humidity of 50%, the back of the hand was kept dry (the testing value retained at 38 + 2) before testing; five sample capsules of the examples were applied; 3 h later, moisture was tested at five different applied sites on the back of the hand using a moisture tester (455, Shenzhen Wanbaoji Technolo- gy Co., Ltd.) and averaged. Judgment results are shown in Table 1. Table 1 Performance testing results of examples Refresh- Moisture- ness formity leakage gree capacity Ezample 1 Good Good Good According to the performance testing results of examples in Table 1, Example 1 obtains the optimal results, and the difference between Examples 2 and 1 is that the content of constituent compo- nents for controlling the stability and uniformity is low, re- flecting that the color uniformity is fair; the difference between Examples 3 and 1 is that the content of components and bases for controlling the stability is low, reflecting that the fullness is fair. In conclusion, the wolfberry capsule essence plays a role through interactions between components and specific functional components on the premise of uniformity and stability, achieving an intact and full shape, a uniform color, impermeable capsules, good refreshing degree, and excellent moisture-retaining capacity.
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