MXPA98010109A - Process for direct dying of keratinous fibres in two steps with the help of direct basic dyes - Google Patents

Process for direct dying of keratinous fibres in two steps with the help of direct basic dyes

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Publication number
MXPA98010109A
MXPA98010109A MXPA/A/1998/010109A MX9810109A MXPA98010109A MX PA98010109 A MXPA98010109 A MX PA98010109A MX 9810109 A MX9810109 A MX 9810109A MX PA98010109 A MXPA98010109 A MX PA98010109A
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Mexico
Prior art keywords
radical
alkyl
chosen
basic
group
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Application number
MXPA/A/1998/010109A
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Spanish (es)
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MX214446B (en
Inventor
Demeulenaere Christelle
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Publication date
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Publication of MXPA98010109A publication Critical patent/MXPA98010109A/en
Publication of MX214446B publication Critical patent/MX214446B/en

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Abstract

Procedure for direct dyeing of the hair after initial bleaching Direct dyeing of previously bleached hair using a mixture of a partially dissolved powder component containing a basic direct dye and a liquid aqueous component. A procedure for dyeing keratinous fibers, especially the hair, comprising the stages of (a) bleaching the keratinous fibers and (b) applying a tinctorial composition containing, in an aqueous medium, at least one partially dissolved basic direct dye, this composition being ready for use or having been prepared as required by mixing a powder component (P) containing at least one basic direct dye and an aqueous component (A).

Description

DIRECT DYE PROCEDURE IN TWO STAGES OF THE KERATINIC FIBERS USING BASIC DIRECT COLORS FIELD OF THE INVENTION The invention relates to a direct dyeing process, in two stages, of keratin fibers, in particular of human keratin fibers, such as hair, characterized in that in a first step, a discoloration of the hair is carried out. keratin fibers, then in a second step, a dye composition containing, in an aqueous medium, at least one basic direct dye partially dissolved is applied to the keratin fibers, said composition being prepared for use or resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of the keratin fibers. less a powdery composition (P) containing at least one basic direct dye and an aqueous composition (A).
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION It is well known to dye keratin fibers and in particular human hair with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes and in particular nitrobenzene direct dyes. The Ref. 029001 direct dyes have, however, the drawback, when they are incorporated in dyeing compositions, of leading to placements that have an insufficient tenacity, in particular with respect to shampoos. In addition, the obtained placements generally lack power and are too matt. In order to remedy this problem, it has already been proposed to proceed with a discoloration of the keratin fibers prior to any stage of application of the direct dyes. However, the application of direct dyes on discolored keratin fibers, although it leads to less matt colorations than those obtained without prior discoloration of the fibers, nevertheless leads to insufficiently chromatic and potent and non-homogeneous colorations, that is to say, they present local differences in intensity. Trying to solve these problems, the Applicant Firm has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain strong, very chromatic and homogeneous dyes, which also have a good resistance to atmospheric agents such as light and weather, and against perspiration. and to different treatments that the hair can undergo (washing, permanent deformation), using a two-stage direct dyeing process of the keratin fibers, which consists in a first stage in carrying out a discoloration of the keratin fibers, then in a second stage, in applying to these fibers a dye composition containing, in an aqueous medium, at least one basic direct dye partially dissolved, said dye composition being prepared for use or resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of at least one powdery composition (P) containing at least one basic direct dye and one aqueous composition sa (A).
The dyeing process according to the invention also makes it possible to dye the keratin fibers with small pause times. This discovery forms the basis of the present invention.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The subject of the present invention is therefore a two-step direct dyeing process for keratin fibers, and in particular for human keratin fibers, such as hair, characterized in that, in a first step, a process is carried out. discoloration of the keratin fibers, then in a second step, a dye composition is applied to the keratin fibers containing, in an aqueous medium, at least one basic direct dye partially dissolved, said dye composition being prepared for use or resulting in the extemporaneous mixture of at least one pulverulent composition (P) containing at least one basic direct dye and an aqueous composition (A). According to the invention, the fact that the basic direct dye (s) present in the dyeing composition applied during the second stage of the process according to the invention are partially dissolved means that the basic direct dye (s) are in supersaturation, ie, present in a weight amount greater than its solubility limit in the aqueous dyeing medium used, either the basic direct dye or dyes are partially or totally absorbed on or coated with an insoluble mineral or organic load present in the composition dyeing. According to the invention, the first stage of the process according to the invention is a decolorization step leading to a shade (after discoloration), which preferably has a pitch of greater than or equal to 6. In the dyeing field of the keratin fibers, the color of the keratin fibers can be expressed in pitch heights ranging from 1 to 10 and corresponding to the following nuances: Height of tones Corresponding tonality 10 Very light blonde 9 Very light blonde Light blond 7 Blond 6 Dark blond 5 Light chestnut 4 Chestnut 3 Dark chestnut 2 Brown 1 Black Preferably, the decolorization step leads to a shade that has a color difference greater than or equal to 2 tones in relation to the color of the fibers before discoloration. The results are the better the closer they are, after the decolorization step, to the pitch heights 9 or 10. All types of discoloration methods of the keratin fibers can be used according to the method of the invention.
According to a first embodiment of the process of the invention, the discoloration can be carried out by application of an oxidizing composition containing at least one oxidizing agent. The time required to obtain the desired discoloration is generally between 15 and 60 minutes and even more particularly between 30 and 45 minutes. The nature of the oxidizing agent present in the oxidizing composition is not critical. Among these oxidizing agents, mention may be made in particular of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates, persulfates and percarbonates, polythionates and mixtures thereof. The oxidizing composition may be in liquid or cream form, said oxidizing composition being prepared for use or resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of one or more aqueous compositions or one or more aqueous compositions with one or more powdery compositions, the oxidizing agent being present. in the aqueous composition (s) and / or in the powdery composition (s). When the oxidizing agent is present in the pulverulent composition, it can then be presented in granulated or coated form as described for example in the patent applications FR-A-2 703 588, FR-A-2 703 589, FR-A-2 715 065, FR-A-2 716 804 in the name of the Requesting Firm and whose content forms an integral part of the present application. The pH of the oxidizing composition is preferably between 5 and 12 and even more particularly between 8 and 11, and can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents well known in the state of the art in decolorization of keratin fibers. Among alkalizing agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and the compounds described in patent application EP-A-512 879 in the name of the Applicant Firm and among which can be cited mainly 1,3-diaminopropane, N, N'-diethyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N, N-diethyl 1 , 3-diaminopropane, N, N-di ethyl-1,3-diaminopropane, 2-hydroxy 1- (N, N-diethyl) amino-3-aminopropane, and 2-hydroxy-1,3-diaminio propane. Acidifying agents are conventionally, by way of example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulfonic acids. The oxidizing composition used according to the process according to the invention can also contain one or more adjuvants conventionally used in the compositions for the decolorization of keratin fibers, such as surfactants, polymers, mineral or organic thickening agents, antioxidants, penetration agents. , sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, smoke agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents. When the decolorization step by means of the oxidizing composition is finished, the keratin fibers are preferably rinsed with water before the second step of applying the dyeing composition containing the partially dissolved basic direct dye (s). The rinsing can also be followed by washing with shampoo in order to eliminate traces of the oxidizing agent. According to a second embodiment of the method of the invention, the decolorization step can be carried out by irradiating the keratin fibers with the help of a laser beam in the form of pulses of sufficient power to degrade the melanin contained in the keratin fibers and thus lead to discoloration. This method of decolorization by laser irradiation is described in the patent applications EP-A-685 220 and EP-A-685 180 of the Applicant Firm, the content of which forms an integral part of the present application. The basic direct dye (s) that can be used in the dye composition used during the second step of the process according to the invention are preferably chosen from the basic aminoanthraquinones, the basic mono- or di-azoics, the basic azomethines, the basic naphthoquinones, and the basic dyes of ethylenic mono-unsaturations. By way of example, mention may be made in particular of [8- [(p-aminophenyl) azol] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyl] trimethylammonium chloride also referred to as Basic Brown 16 or Arianor Mahogany 306002 in the Color Index), the association of 3- [(4-amino-6-bromo-5,8-dihydro-l-hydroxy-8-imino-5-oxo-2-naphthyl) -amino] -N, N, N-tri-ethyl-benzenaminium chloride and of 3- [(2,6-dibromo-5,8-dihydro-l-hydroxy-8-imino-5-oxo-3-naphthyl) -amino] -N, N, N-trimethylbenzenamine chloride (also referred to as Basic Blue 99 or Arianor Steel Blue 306004 in the Color Index), the 7-hydroxy-8- [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, -trimethyl-2-naphthaleneminemine chloride (also called the Basic Red 76 or Arianor Madder Red in the Color Index), the chloride of [8 [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyl] trimethylammonium (also called Basic Red 118 in Color Index), the association of [8- [(4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyl) -trimethylammonium chloride and [8- [(4-amino)] chloride -2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyl] -trimethylammonium (also called Brown 17 or Arianor Sienna Brown 306001 in Color Index), 3- [(4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-5-oxo-l-phenyl-lH-pyrazol-4-yl) azo] -N, N, N-tri chloride ethyl-benzenamine (also called Basic Yellow) 57 or Arianor Straw Yellow 306005 in the Color Index), the clo h-idrate of 1- (? -aminopropyl) amino anthraquinone, the methyl sulfate of 1-N- (methyl morpholinium propyl) amino 4-hydroxy anthraquinone, and the Basic Orange 69 (Color Index denomination). The basic direct dye (s) can also be chosen from: a) the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: D represents a nitrogen atom or the group -CH, Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; an alkyl radical of C? -C4 which can be substituted by a radical -CN, -OH or -NH2 or form with a carbon atom of the benzene ring a heterocycle optionally oxygenated or nitrogenated, which can be substituted by one or more alkyl radicals of C? -C; a 4'-aminophenyl radical, R3 and R'3 / identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical, C? -C alkoxy or acetyloxy, X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, A represents a group chosen by the following structures Al a Al9: A7 Aa A. '10 A "A1: A 13 A 14 15 '16 17 A 18 wherein R represents an alkyl radical of Ci-C4 which can be substituted by a hydroxyl radical and R5 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, with the proviso that when D represents -CH, then A represents A4 0 Ap and when R3 is different from an alkoxy radical, then R and R2 do not simultaneously designate a hydrogen atom; b) the compounds of formula (II) below: in which : Re represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of C? -C4, R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which may be substituted by a -CN radical or by an amino group, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or a Re-form with an optionally oxygenated and / or nitrogenous heterocycle which may be substituted by a radical C1-C alkyl, R8 and R-9r identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, an alkyl radical of C? -C4 or alkoxy of Ci-C4, a radical -CN, X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, B represents a group chosen by the following structures Bl to B6: B4 B5 B6 in which R10 represents an alkyl radical of C1-C4, Ru and R12 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of C? -C4; c) the following compounds of formulas (III) and (III '): E-D1 in which: R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine or an amino radical, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a carbon atom of the benzene ring with a heterocycle optionally oxygenated and / or substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, R15 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, Lanes and identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of C? -C, Di and D2, identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the -CH group, m = 0 or 1, it being understood that when R 3 represents an unsubstituted amino group, then Di and D 2 simultaneously represent a group -CH and m = 0, X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, E represents a group chosen from the following El a E8 structures: E6 E7 E8 wherein R 'represents an alkyl radical of C? -C4; when m = 0 and when Di represents a nitrogen atom, then E can also designate a group of structure E9 as follows: wherein R 'represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; d) the compounds of formula (IV) below: G N ===== N j (IV) where: the symbol G represents a group chosen from the following structures Cj \ to G3: structures Gi to G3 in which, Ris designates a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical which may be substituted by a C-alkyl radical or a halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine; R19 designates a C? -C alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; R20 and 2IA, identical or different, represent an alkyl radical of C?-C4, a phenyl radical, or form together in Gi a benzene ring substituted by one or more C rad-C alkyl radicals, C?-C4 alkoxy, or N02, or together form in G2 a benzene ring optionally substituted by one or more C? -C4 alkyl radicals, C? -C4 alkoxy, or N02; R20 may also designate a hydrogen atom; Z denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or a group -NR19; M represents a group -CH, -CR (designating R alkyl of K represents a group -CH, -CR (designating R alkyl of C1-C4), or NR22 (X ") r; P represents a group -CH, -CR (designating R C 1 -C 4 alkyl), or NR 22 (X ") r: r designates zero or 1, R 22 represents an O" atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; R23 and R24, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical of C?-C4, alkoxy of C?-C4, a radical -NO2; X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate; with the proviso that, if R22 designates O ", then r designates zero, if K or P or M designates -N-C1-C4 alkyl X", then R23 or R24 is different from a hydrogen atom; if K designates -NR22 (X ") t, then M = P = -CH, -CR; if M designates -NR22 (X") r, then K = P = -CH, -CR; if P designates -NR22 (X ") p then K = M and designate -CH or -CR; if Z designates a sulfur atom with R21 denoting C1-C4 alkyl then R20 is different from a hydrogen atom; if Z designates -NR22 with R19 by denoting C? -C4 alkyl, then at least one of the radicals Ris, R20 or R2i of the group of structure G2 is different from an alkyl radical of C? -C4; the symbol J represents: - (a) a group of structure Ji, following: structure Ji in which, R 25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical of C? ~ C4, alkoxy of C? ~ C4, a radical - OH, -N02, -NHR28, -NR29R30 / -NHCOalkyl of C1-C4, or form with R26 a cycle of 5 or 6 links containing or not one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R26 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical of C?-C4 / alkoxy of C!-C4, or forms with R27 or R28 a cyclo with 5 or 6 links containing or not one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R27 represents a hydrogen atom, an -OH radical, a -NHR28 radical, a -NR29R30 radical; R28 represents a hydrogen atom, a radial alkyl of C? -C4, a monohydroxyalkyl radical of C? ~ C4, polyhydroxyalkyl of C2-C4, a phenyl radical; R29 and R30 - identical or different, represent an alkyl radical of C? -C4, a monohydroxyalkyl radical of C? ~ C4, polyhydroxyalkyl of C2-C4; - (b) a 5- or 6-membered nitrogenous heterocyclic group capable of containing other heteroatoms and / or carbonyls and which may be substituted by one or more C?-C4, amino or phenyl alkyl radicals, and especially a structure group J2 next: structure J2 in which, R31 and 32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical of C? -C4, a phenyl radical; CH3 I Y designates the radical -CO- or the radical C =====; n = 0 or 1, with, when n designates 1, U designates the radical -C0-. In the structures (IV) defined above, the C 1 -C 4 alkyl or alkoxy group preferably designates methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy, ethoxy. The direct basic dyes of formulas (I), (II), (III) and (III ') which can be used in the dye composition used during the second stage of the process according to the invention, are known compounds and are described, for example, in patent applications WO 95/01772, WO 95 / 15144 and EP-A-0 714 954. Among the basic direct dyes of formula (I), the compounds that respond to structures (II) to (152) below may be more particularly cited: - - Among the compounds of structures (II) to (152) described above, all compounds which respond to structures (II), (12), (114) and (131) are particularly preferred. Among the basic direct dyes of formula (II), there can be mentioned more particularly the compounds which respond to the following structures (III) to (1112): Among the basic direct dyes of formula (lili), compounds that respond to structures (lili) can be more particularly cited (III18) following: CH3SO4 (1116) H3C - N + • CH CH 3, S? OU4 (1117) CI "(l || 17) Among the particular compounds of structures (III1) to (III18) described above, compounds which respond to structures (III4), (III5) and (III13) are very particularly preferred. Among the basic direct dyes of formula (III '), there can be mentioned more particularly the compounds that respond to the following structures (III'l) to (III'3): ; Y Among the cationic direct dyes of formula (IV) which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of the compounds of structures (IV) i to (IV) below: l_ O CH3S04- CH3SO4- CH3S04" CH3SO4"CH3SO4" CH3SO4" CH3SO4" CH3SO4" CH3SO4" (iv) 57 10 (IV), 66 The aqueous medium of the dye composition consists solely of water or of a mixture of water and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the various adjuvants usually used for the dyeing of keratin fibers such as solvents, surface active agents, polymers, mineral or organic thickening agents, antioxidant agents, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, smoke agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents.
According to the invention, the water preferably represents from 20 to 95% by weight of the total weight of the dye composition and even more preferably from 40 to 90% by weight of this weight. According to the process of the invention, the dye composition can be prepared for use or can be prepared at the time of use by mixing at least one pulverulent composition (P) containing at least one basic direct dye and at least one aqueous composition ( TO) . The aqueous composition (A) can be constituted solely by water or by a mixture of water and one or more cosmetic adjuvants such as those mentioned above. In the pulverulent composition (P), the basic direct dye (s) can themselves be the entire powdery composition, or be dispersed in an excipient, in powder form, of organic nature and / or of a mineral nature. This powder preferably has a particle size of less than 350 μm. The organic excipient may be of origin, synthetic or vegetable and be chosen mainly from cross-linked or non-crosslinked synthetic polymers, polysaccharides such as celluloses and modified or non-modified starches, as well as natural products containing them, such as wood sawdust or the vegetable gums (guar, carob, xanthan, etc ...). The mineral excipient may be constituted by metal oxides such as titanium oxides, aluminum oxides, kaolin, talc, silicates, mica and silicas. An advantageously preferred excipient is constituted by wood sawdust such as Northern Spruce sawdust. The water-insoluble products which may constitute this mineral or organic excipient may also be present in the dyeing composition as the adsorption agent of the basic direct dye (s). The pulverulent composition (P) may still contain binders or coating products in an amount not preferably exceeding 3% by weight of the total weight of said pulverulent composition. These binders are preferably oils or liquid fatty substances of mineral, synthetic, animal or vegetable origin. The pulverulent composition may still contain other adjuvants, in the powder state, in particular surfactants of any nature, hair conditioning agents.
Of course, the technician will endeavor to choose the one or more complementary compounds mentioned above, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically fixed to the dyeing composition according to the invention, or the powdery composition that are not substantially altered by the addition or additions considered. According to the invention, the dye composition used during the second stage of the process is applied to the keratin fibers during the pause times necessary to obtain the dyeing at the desired intensity, which is generally between 2 and 45 minutes and even more particularly between 3 and 10 minutes. Now concrete examples illustrating the invention will be given, without, however, presenting a limiting character.
EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 1 to 3 The following different compositions were prepared: Oxidizing composition: (common to examples 1, 2 and 3) At the time of employment, they were mixed: • 48 grams of an oxidizing powder composition containing: - 70% by weight of a mixture of sodium and potassium persulfates - 12 by weight of sodium metasilicate and - 7 of ammonium chloride • 30 ml of a cream containing non-ionic surfactants and 12 g of ammonia of 20% NH3 • and 30 ml of oxidizing milk that had a pH of 2.0 and titrated 40 volumes (12% by weight) in hydrogen peroxide.
Dyeing compositions: At the time of employment, the following were mixed: • 60 g of an aqueous composition (A) consisting of: - Cetylstearyl alcohol 7 g - Ethanol 2 g - Dietanolamide of copra fatty acids sold under the name COMPERLAN KD by the company HEMKEL 3 g Cocoyl amidoethyl amine N-hydroxyethyl N-propionate of sodium 6 g MA - Preservatives and perfumes c.s. - Demineralized water 100 g •: M.A. Active Matter • 40 g of water, and • 3.5 g of a powder composition (P) constituted by (contents in grams): The decolorizing oxidizing composition was applied to three wicks of brown hair for 40 minutes at room temperature. The wicks of hair were decoloured in 6 shades, in very light blond. After this first phase of discoloration, the hair strands were rinsed, washed with shampoo, rinsed again, then dried. It was then applied on each of the hair strands so decolorized, each of the dyeing compositions described above, for 5 minutes. After rinsing and drying them, the hair strands were stained in the nuances shown in the following table:

Claims (19)

1. Direct dyeing process in two stages of the keratin fibers, and in particular of the human keratin fibers such as the hair, characterized in that in a first stage, a discoloration of the keratin fibers is carried out, then in a second stage. In this step, a dye composition containing, in an aqueous medium, at least one basic, partially dissolved dye is applied to the keratin fibers, said dye composition being prepared for use or resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of at least one powdery composition (P ) which "contains at least one basic direct dye and an aqueous composition (A).
2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the basic direct dye (s) is in saturation.
3. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the basic direct dye (s) are partially or totally absorbed on or coated by an insoluble mineral or organic filler present in the dyeing composition.
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first step is a decolorization step leading to a hue having a pitch height greater than or equal to 6.
5. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the decolorization step leads to a shade that has a color difference greater than or equal to 2 tones in relation to the color of the fibers before the discoloration.
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the discoloration is carried out by application of a composition containing at least one oxidizing agent.
7. Process according to claim 6, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts, polythionates, and mixtures thereof.
8. Process according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the oxidizing composition is presented in liquid or cream form, said oxidizing composition being prepared for use or resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of one or more aqueous compositions or one or more aqueous compositions with one or more pulverulent compositions, the oxidizing agent being present in the aqueous composition (s) and / or in the powdery composition (s).
9. Process according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the oxidizing composition has a pH comprised between 5 and 12.
10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the discoloration is carried out by irradiation of the keratin fibers with the help of a laser beam in the form of pulses of power sufficient to degrade the melanin contained in the keratin fibers. .
11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the basic direct dye (s) are chosen from the basic amino-anthraquinones, the basic mono- or diazoics, the basic azomethines, the basic naphthoquinones, and the basic dyes of ethylenic mono-unsaturations.
12. Process according to claim 11, characterized in that the dyes are chosen from [8- [(p-aminophenyl) azol] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyl] -trimethylammonium chloride (also called Basic Brown 16 or Arianor Mahogany 306002 in Color Index), the association of 3- [(4-amino-6-bromo-5,8-dihydro-l-hydroxy-8-imino-5-oxo-2-naphthyl) -amino] -N, N, N-trimethyl-benzenamine and 3 - [(2,6-dibromo-5,8-dihydro-l-hydroxy-8-imino-5-oxo-3-naphthyl) amino] -N chloride , N, N-trimethyl-benzenamine (also called Basic Blue 99 or Arianor Steel Blue 306004 in Color Index), 7-hydroxy-8- [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethyl chloride -2-naphthaleneminium (also called the Basic Red 76 or Arianor Madder Red in the Color Index), the chloride of [8- [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyltrimethylammonium (also called Basic Red 118 in the Color Index), the association of chloride [8 - [(4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo] -7-hydroxy-2-naphthyl] -trimethylammonium and [8- [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7-hydroxy-2-chloride -naftill-trimethylammonium (also called Brown 17 or Arianor Sienna Brown 306001 in Color Index), 3- [(4,5-dihydro-3-methyl-5-oxo-l-phenyl-lH-pyrazol-4-yl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethyl chloride -bencenaminio (also called Basic Yellow 57 or Arianor Straw Yellow 306005 in Color Index), 1- (α-aminopropyl) amino anthraquinone hydrochloride, 1-N (methyl morpholinium propyl) amino 4-hydroxy anthraquinone methyl sulfate, and Basic Orange 69 (designation of Color Index).
13. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the basic direct dye (s) are chosen from: a) the compounds of the following formula (I): in which: D represents a nitrogen atom or the group -CH, Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted by a -CN radical, -OH or -NH 2 or form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated or nitrogenated heterocycle, which may be substituted by one or more alkyl radicals of C? -C4; a 4'-aminophenyl radical, R3 and R'3 / identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical, C1-C4 alkoxy or acetyloxy, X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, A represents a group chosen by the following structures Al a Al9: A,% 10"11" 12 A 13 14 15 % 16 '17 18 wherein R 4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical and R 5 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, with the proviso that when D represents -CH, then A represents A4 0 A 13 and when R3 is different from an alkoxy radical, then Ri and R2 do not simultaneously designate a hydrogen atom; b) the compounds of formula (II) below: B in which: Re represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of C? -C4, R7 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which may be substituted by a -CN radical or by an amino group, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or a Rβ-shaped heterocycle optionally oxygenated and / or nitrogenated which may be substituted by a radical C? -C4 alkyl, Rs and R-9, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, an alkyl radical of C?-C4 or C alco-C4 alkoxy, a radical -CN, X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, B represents a group chosen by the following structures Bl a B6: B4 B5 B6 wherein Rio represents an alkyl radical of C? -C, Rp and R12 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of C? -C4; c) the following compounds of formulas (III) and (III '): in which: R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine or an amino radical, R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, a heterocycle optionally oxygenated and / or substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, R15 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, RIÓ and Ri7 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical of C? -C4, Di and D2, identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the -CH group, m = 0 or 1, it being understood that when R 3 represents an unsubstituted amino group, then Di and D 2 simultaneously represent a group -CH and m = 0, X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, E represents a group chosen from the following E8 structures: E6 E7 E8 wherein R 'represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; when m = 0 and when Di represents a nitrogen atom, then E can also designate a group of structure E9 as follows: R 'R' wherein R 'represents an alkyl radical of C? -C4; d) the compounds of formula (IV) below: -N = N J (IV) wherein: the symbol G represents a group chosen from the following Gi to G3 structures: structures Gi to G3 in which Ri8 denotes an alkyl radical of C? -C4, a phenyl radical which can be substituted by an alkyl radical of C? C4 or a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine; R 19 denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; R 20 and 21 / identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical, or together form in Gi a benzene ring substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy , or N02, or together form in G2 a benzene ring optionally substituted by one or more C?-C4 alkyl radicals, Ct-Cj alkoxy, or N0; R2o can also designate a hydrogen atom; Z denotes an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom or a group -NR19; M represents a group -CH, -CR (designating R alkyl of K represents a group -CH, -CR (designating R alkyl of C1-C4) / or NR22 (X ") r; P represents a group -CH, -CR (designating R alkyl of C1-C4), or NR22 (X "G; r designates zero or 1; R22 represents a 0" atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; R 23 and 2, identical or different , represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical of C? ~ C4, alkoxy C? -C4, a radical -N02; X "represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate; with the proviso that, if R22 designates 0", then r designates zero, if K or P or M designates -N-C1-C4 alkyl X", then R23 or R24 is different from a hydrogen atom; if K designates -NR22 (X ") r, then M = P = -CH, -CR; if M designates -NR22 (X ~) r / then K = P = -CH, -CR; if P designates -NR2 (X ") r, then K = M and designate -CH or -CR; if Z designates a sulfur atom with R2? by designating C 1 -C 4 alkyl, then R 20 is different from a hydrogen atom; if Z designates -NR22 with Ri9 denoting C? -C4 alkyl, then at least one of the radicals R? 8, R20 or R21 of the group of structure G2 is different from an alkyl radical of C? -C4; the symbol J represents: - (a) a group of structure Ji, following: structure Ji in which, R 25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical of C? ~ C4, alkoxy of C? ~ C4, a radical cal -OH, -N02, -NHR28, -NR29R30, -NHCOalkyl of C? -C4, or form with R26 a cycle of 5 or 6 links containing or not one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R26 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, an alkyl radical of C?-C4, C alco-C4 alkoxy, or forms with R 2 or R28 a cycle with 5 or 6 links containing or not one or more heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R2-7 represents a hydrogen atom, a radical -OH, a radical -NHR28, a radical -NR29R30; R28 represents a hydrogen atom, a radial alkyl of C! -C4 / a C 1 -C 4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, C 2 -C 4 polyhydroxyalkyl, a phenyl radical; R29 and R30 / identical or different, represent an alkyl radical of Ci-C4, a monohydroxyalkyl radical of C? ~ C4, polyhydroxyalkyl of C2-C4; - (b) a 5- or 6-membered nitrogenous heterocyclic group capable of containing other heteroatoms and / or carbonyls and which may be substituted by one or more C?-C4, amino or phenyl alkyl radicals, and especially a structure group J2 next: structure J2 in which, R31 and R32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; CH3 I Y designates the radical -CO- or the radical C =====; n = 0 or 1, with, when n designates 1, U designates the radical -C0-.
14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous medium of the dye composition is constituted solely by water or by a mixture of water and at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the solvents, the surfactants , polymers, mineral or organic thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, smoke-killing agents, ceramides, preserving agents and its opacifying agents.
15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water represents from 20 to 95% by weight of the total weight of the dye composition.
16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in the pulverulent composition (P), the basic direct dye (s) are themselves the entire powdery composition, or are dispersed in a powder excipient, of an organic nature and / or of a mineral nature.
17. Process according to claim 16, characterized in that the excipient is wood sawdust.
18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dyeing composition is applied during a pause time comprised between 2 and 45 minutes.
19. Process according to claim 18, characterized in that the pause time is between 3 and 10 minutes.
MX9810109A 1997-12-05 1998-12-01 DIRECT DYE PROCEDURE IN TWO STAGES OF KERATIN FIBERS USING BASIC DIRECT COLORS. MX214446B (en)

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FR2716804B1 (en) * 1994-03-02 1996-04-05 Oreal Cosmetic compositions for bleaching the hair, preparation process and use.
JPH0859445A (en) * 1994-05-04 1996-03-05 L'oreal Sa Method for improving effect of make-up treatment performed on bleached hair
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FR2719470B1 (en) * 1994-05-04 1996-06-28 Oreal Method for bleaching hair by laser irradiation with cooling, and device for implementing it.
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