MXPA98005476A - Bright composition containing aromatic oil thickened by a polisacar alkileter - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a glossy composition particularly intended for lip makeup, containing a particular filler and at least one aromatic oil thickened by a polysaccharide alkylether consisting of units that include at least two different osidic cycles, each unit including at least one a hydroxyl group substituted by a hydrocarbon alkyl chain saturated or not. The alkyl ether has in particular a weight-average molecular weight of more than 200 000 and is particularly a guar gum rental with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3. The composition may be in the form of a more or less viscous gel, emulsion or anhydrous bar

Description

of bar or cup, soft paste or also of oily liquid more or less is thickened. It constitutes in particular a product for the lips, a foundation, a profiler, a product anti-dark circles, an eye shadow or also a sunscreen product.

In the! cosmetic or dermatological products, it is! current to find a thickened liquid fat phase; This is particularly the case in REF: 27801 ointments, treatment gels or anhydrous gels, solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and reds! of lips. The thickening of the oils (or of the liquid phases at room temperature) makes it possible in particular to limit the exudation of the oils of the solid compositions and, in addition, in the case of the reds of the lips, it is even necessary to completely eliminate the migration of the oils. the film colored in the wrinkles and small wrinkles around the lips. This problem of migration also exists, at a lower level, in the products of eye contours.

To remedy these problems, recharge waxes have usually been used. Unfortunately, these waxes and fillers have a tendency to compound the composition, which is not always desirable. In effect, women are increasingly looking for a bright lipstick that does not exude and does not migrate.

One of the known techniques for increasing the gloss of a make-up or treatment product is to increase the proportion of the oily phase to the detriment of the particular phase, the latter phase being, on the other hand, to be the best dispersed object. In fact, a poor dispersion of the pigment particles can lead to a non-homogeneous film on the lips, conferring an unsightly appearance. In addition, too small a quantity of pigments often leads to a thin film. In addition, the gloss of the composition tends to decrease over time, particularly because of the poor behavior of the film over time.

It is otherwise known to thicken the oils (or generally the liquid fatty phases at room temperature) with polymeric thickeners, particularly polyolefins. Unfortunately, these thickeners of known oils must be used in large quantities to obtain efficient thickening. However, too large a quantity of thickener confers on the composition, when the latter is intended for the cosmetic field, insufficient cosmetic properties, and particularly an adhesive touch and a lack of slippage, these drawbacks being very annoying, even redhibitory.

Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has discovered that it was possible to obtain glossy and stable cosmetic compositions in the form of a gel, stick or flexible paste having satisfactory cosmetic properties, thanks to a particular liquid fatty phase thickened by a particular thickener. This composition makes it possible in particular to solve all the drawbacks mentioned above.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising a liquid fatty phase containing at least one oil, p comprising a chemical structure provided with; at least one aromatic group, a thickener of said fatty phase and a particular filler, said thickener comprising at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether forming units including at least two different osidic cycles, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by one hydrocarbon alkyl chain saturates ao no. Thanks to this particular thickener and to this gralsa phase selection, the composition according to the invention allows obtaining or a glossy film on the skin or lips. It is furthermore possible to obtain, in association with the known ingredients to rigidify or solidify the composition, a solid product in the form of flexible pulp or bar having improved cosmetic properties, relative to the thickened compositions of the prior art. In particular, it is possible to obtain a red lipstick, an anti-dark circles bar or a molten, soft foundation in the application with a shiny appearance and in which the liquid fatty phase does not exsudate. In addition, in the most particular case of a red lip, the elongated pigment oils do not migrate in the wrinkles and small wrinkles of the corners of the lips.

Although the invention is particularly well adapted to the cosmetic field, it applies to any field that needs to obtain glossy thick compositions including glossy solid compositions and particularly in the veterinary, dermatological, pharmaceutical or even wood (pigment bar) , oils and waxes for furniture restoration).

In the thickener of the invention, "hydrocarbon alkyl chain" means a branched or straight chain, comprising from 1 to 24, preferably from 1 to 10, better from 1 to 6, and more particularly from 1 to 3. atoms gives carbon. In particular, the alkyl chain is chosen from the saturated chains and particularly methyl, ethyl, ethenyl, -propyl, propenyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkyl ether of a gum and more particularly of a generally non-ionic gum, that is to say that it comprises little or no ionic group.

As appropriate gums! there may be mentioned, for example, guar gum, whose unit contains a galactose and a mafia, locust bean gum cuyf. unit comprises a galactose and a mafia, the gum; karaya which is a complex mixture of rhamnose, galacturonic galactose, the gum that is a mixture of arabinose, galactose and galacturonic acid. According to a preferred embodiment node of the invention, the polysaccharide alkyl ether is a guar gum derivative. Thus, the alkylether is advantageously an alkylated chain galactomannan of Ci to C? and better from Ci to C3 and more particularly guartylated with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3 and particularly of about 2.5 to 2.8, such as that described in documents RD 953780 (37 (October 1995) and EP -A-708114.This gum is in particular the one sold by the Aqualon Society under the name of N-HANCE-AG 20O® and N-HANCE-AG SO®.

The concentration of alkyl ether depends on the dosage form, the consistency sought for the composition as well as the amount of oil to be thickened. In particular, the weight ratio of the quantity of liquid fatty phase to the amount of thickener is chosen, for example, in the range from 5 to 500. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, an amount of polysaccharide alkylether which varies between 0.2 and 16% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 16% and better from 1.5 to 8% By way of examples of hydrocarbon skeleton oils which In the case of a monosubstituted aryl radical, mention may be made of benzoic acid esters such as ethyl hexyl benzoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, octyldodecyl banzoatol or dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and mixtures thereof.

As an example of hydrocarbon-based escutcheon oils with a multisubstituted aryl radical, mention may be made of trimellitic acid (or trialkyl trimellitate) esters with Ci to C22 alkyl chains such as tridecyl triraelitate; the esters of para-methoxycinnamic acid such as ethyl-hexyl parametoxycinnamate and 2-ethoxy ethyl para-methoxycinnamate; esters of dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid such as octyl dimethyl PABA (or 2-ethylhexyl dimethyl para-amino benzoate) esters of salicylic acid such as 2-ethylhexyl salicylate; esters of anthranilic acid such as methyl anthranilate; and its mixtures.

By way of examples of silicone skeleton oils having? one or more monosubstituted aryl radicals, mention may be made of phenylated silicones which have, in particular, the following formula: C3o, an aryl radical, a phenyl radical or an aralkyl radical of C7 to Ceo,! . R2 and R'2 independently represent a linear or branched alkyl, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C3o radical. n is an integer that ranges from 0 to 150,. m is an integer that ranges from 0 to 200,. p is an integer that ranges from 0 to 200, and. a is an integer ranging from 0 to 10, with the proviso that the ratio of n / (n + m + p) is particular, is equal to methyl or phenyl.

Among these phenylated silicones, mention may be made in particular of phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydi? 'Enyl siloxanes, diphenyl methyldiphenyltri siloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl idimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes, phenyltrimethicones and mixtures thereof. By way of example of commercial phenylated silicones, mention may be made of the Belsil PDM10O0 oil sold by the Wacker Company, the oils DC556, SF558 or DC704 sold by the Dow Corning Company, the Abil AV8853 oil of Goldschmidt, the Silbione oil 70641V200 or the Silbione 70633V30 oil sold by the Rhone Poulenc Society, or also those sold by the Low PCR society names it 15M30, 15M40, 15M50, 15M60. trimethylsiloxysilicates such as those sold under the denomination of 117Q-3100. It is also possible to use fluorinated silicone oils of an aromatic and particularly perfluorinated group, such as those described in EP-A-8113 9 and EP-A-829254; the perfluorinated radicals are pendant radicals having 1 to 12 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention can comprise from 1 to 99.8% by weight, preferably from 5 to 80%, of aromatic group oils The particular phase of the composition of the invention is generally present in a proportion of 0.05 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5 to 20%, and which may comprise pigments and / or pearlescents and / or charges usually - used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions. This charge can lead to a colored, white or colorless composition.

By pigments, it is necessary to comprise white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. By fillers, is it necessary to understand colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar particles? not laminar. By pearlescence, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, particularly produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized. These, fillers and pearlescents serve particularly to modify the texture of the composition.

The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0.05 to 25% of the weight of the final composition, and preferably at a ratio of 2 to 15%. As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, and barium, strontium, calcium (DC Red No. 7), aluminum lacquers.

The pearlescents may be present in the composition at a ratio of 0 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in a high percentage of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the pearlescents which can be used in the invention, it is possible to cite the oxide-coated mica. titanium, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride such as colored titanium mica.

The charges may be present at a ratio of 0 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15%. It is possible to mention, in particular, talc, mica, kaolin, Nylon (particularly Orgasol) and polyethylene powders, Teflo, starch, boron nitride, copolymer microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), the polytrap (Dow Corning) and the silicone resin microbeads (Toepearl from Toshiba, for example).

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase contains one or more other types of oil than the aromatic group oils. These oils can be hydrocarbon and / or siliconized and / or fluorinated oils. These oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

As oils other than those of the aromatic group, usable in 1 & invention, there may be particularly mentioned: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon vegetable oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanic or octanoic acids, or even oils of sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed , of sesame, of hazelnut, of apricot, of macadamia, of castor, of avocado, the triglycerides of the caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the Company Stearineries Dubois or, those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 318 by the Dynamit Nobel Society, the jojoba oil, of charity butter; dodecyl, the soterate and soestear or; Hydroxylated esters such as "isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, fatty alcohol decanoates, polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioactanoate, glycerol diheptanoate , the diisononancate of diethylene glycol; and the esters of pentaerythritol; - fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-unaecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol, cyclics having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, including silicone anthers eventually alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Thus, these silicones are particularly hexamethyldisiloxane, cyclopenta- or cyclotetra- or cyclohexa-dimethylsiloxane. These volatile oils may represent from 0 to 50% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can, moreover, comprise all the ingredients conventionally used in the areas in question and more especially in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. These ingredients are in particular chosen from preservatives, thickeners I of aqueous phase or graga different from that of the invention, perfumes, surfactants, antioxidants, waxes and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention can also contain lipid vesicles of the ionic and / or nonionic type. The canticades of these different ingredients are those conventionally used in the areas in question and for example from 0.31% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. The nature of these ingredients and their proportion must be compatible with obtaining compositions according to the invention, stable thickened and bright. The composition may also contain water at a concentration ranging from 0 to 95% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may advantageously comprise a solid or pasty fatty phase containing one or more gums and / or one or more waxes. These gums or waxes can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature higher than 25 ° C and better than 45 ° c.

The composition of the invention can be presented in any galenic form normally used for topical application, and particularly in the form of an oily gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water dispersion, to vesicles, with the vesicles located on the intermediate oil / water surface. This composition can have the appearance of a cream, an ointment, a flexible paste, an ointment, a cast or molded solid and in particular a bar or a cup.

The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for the treatment, makeup or treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes depending on the nature of the active ingredients used. In particular, the composition of the invsnción can be a bar of red of lips, a gloss, of lips (gloss in Anglo-Saxon terminology) usable as such or to apply on a film of red of lips particularly to increase its brightness and / or diminish the migration of oils (top coat in Anglo-Saxon terminology). It may also constitute a solid bottom make-up, an anti-dark-skin or eye-contouring product, a profiler, a mask, an eye shadow or even a sunscreen product or a skin cleaning or cleansing product such as the engomantes products. These compositions can, moreover, contain. cosmetic or dermatological active agents, with a view to, in particular, providing a carefully treated or treated aspect with the composition. Thus the composition may contain vitamins and other lipophilic active agents (lanolin, UVA filter) or hydrophilic (moisturizers like glycerin) The invention also has for its object a cosmetic use of the composition indicated above to care for and / or make up the skin and / or the mucous membranes and more especially the lips as well as a use of this composition for the preparation of an ointment intended for Treat the skin and / or mucous membranes and particularly the lips.

The subject of the invention is also a method of cosmetic and / or dermatological treatment of the skin and / or of the mucous membranes and particularly of the lips, which consists of applying to the skin and / or mucous membranes and particularly the lips the composition defined above. .

More specifically, the invention relates to a lip or foundation makeup product containing a liquid fatty phase containing at least one oil comprising a chemical structure having at least one aromatic group, a thickener of the said fat phase and a particular filler, said thickener comprising at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether as defined above.

The composition of the invention can be obtained by heating the different constituents to a liquid fatty phase and / or obtaining a glossy film.

The subject of the invention is also a method for limiting the migration of a makeup composition or treatment of the skin or lips on a substrate deferent from said skin and said lips, containing a liquid fatty phase and a particular charge , which consists in introducing into the liquid fat phase at least one oil comprising a chemical structure containing at least one aromatic group, this fat phase being thickened by a thickener comprising at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether as defined above.

The examples of compositions given below are given by way of illustration and without limitation, i The amounts are given in% by weight.

Example 1 of lip gloss Guar etilated with a substitution crimp of approximately 2.5 3,8% DC Red No. 7 Calcium (lacquer) 5,0% Fenil trimethicone (DC | 556) esp 100% This lip gloss has been proven in comparison with a gloss of the prior art. It has been judged more cosmetic and behavioral in brightness superior to that of the prior art Examples of 2 to 6 lip gloss These examples are distinguished from those of Example 1 by the nature of the phenylated oil. These examples respectively contain phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane (SF558); diphenyl dimetixone (Silbi? ne 70641V200); diphenylmethyl dimethyltrisiloxane (DC704); 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilycato (1170-3100); tridecyl trimellitate (DUB TMTD).

(Example 7 lip gloss Guar etilated with a substitution gijrado of approximately 2.5 1.9% DC Red N ° 7 Calcium (1 1; ca 5,0% Feniltrimethicone (Belsil PDMIOOO) esp 100% This composition can be used as such as lip gloss or as a "top-coat".

Example 8: Lipstick bar Guar etilada with a substitution gjjrado of 2.5 4,00% Polyethylene (wax) '• 3.50% Tridecil tri elitate 81.00% Carnauba wax 3.50% DC Red 7 calcium (lacquer) 8.00% The pigments are dispersed in the oil, then the ethylated guar gum is dissolved at 90 ° C for 3 hours. The waxes are added and the whole is heated until the waxes are fully melted. Finally, the obtained mixture is poured in a mold in a suitable manner to obtain a bar.

Examples 9 and 10: Lipstick bars These examples are distinguished from those of Example 9 by the use of a methylated guar gum and a propyl guar gum with a degree of substitution of about 2.7.

It is noted that in relation to this date the best method for the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the description of the present invention. Having written the invention as above, the contents of the following are claimed as property.

Claims (8)

1. CLAIMS 1. Composition containing a liquid fatty phase, a particulate phase and a thickener of the fatty phase, characterized in that the thickener comprises at least one polysaccharide alkyl ether formed by units comprising at least two different osidic cycles, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a hydrocarbon alkyl calene saturated or not and because the phase jrasa contains at least one oil that includes a chemical structure provided with at least one aromatic group.
2. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that two of four hydroxyl groups per unit are replaced by a saturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain.
3. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrocarbon alkyl chain includes from 1 to 24 carbon atoms.
4. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon alkyl chain includes from 2 to 10 carbon atoms.
5. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl chain is chosen from the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl chains.
6. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the osidic cycles are chosen from mannosa, galactose, glucose, furanose, rhamnose, arabinose.
7. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is an alkylene ether of a gum selected from guar gum, locust bean gum, karaya gum, gum adragant and mixtures thereof.
8. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylether is an alkylated alkyl chain galatpmannan of Ci to C6 and better from Ci to C3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkylether is from the ethyl chain guar gum with a degree of substitution of 2 to 3. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkylether has a weight average molecular weight greater than 200 0Q 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is present in an amount such that the ratio (by weight) of the amount of liquid fatty phase over the amount of thickener is chosen in the range that! It ranges between 5 and 500. 12. A composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polysaccharide alkyl ether is present in an amount ranging between 0.2 and 16% of the total weight of the composition and better than 1.5 to 8% of the total weight of the composition. 13, CoraDOSsición according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil 15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the aromatic group oil is a silicone oil of formula: Ri, R'i and R "? Independently represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical of C 1 to C 30, an aryl radical, a phenyl radical or an aralkyl radical of C to C 2 or R 2 and independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical of Ci to C30 n is an inner number ranging from 0 to 150, m is an integer ranging from 0 to 200, p is an integer number ranging from 0 to 200 , is already an integer that oscillates between 0 and 10, with the condition that the ratio of n / (n + m + p) is at most equal to 3.85 and that the sum of n + m + p goes from 1 to 200 and that if m = p = O then R '1 is an aryl or aralkyl radical. 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that Ri, R 'i and R "? Represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl, octadecyl, phenyl, tolyl, benzyl, phenethyl radical 17. Composition according to claim 15 or 16 , characterized in that R2 and R'2 represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl, octadecyl radical, 18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil with aromatic group is selected from the esters of trimellitic acid of C1 to C22 alkyl chains, the esters of benzoic acid, the esters of dimethyl methoxycinnamic acid, the esters of paraamino acid benzoic esters, salicylic acid esters, anthranilic acid esters, phenyl tricycletones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydi-enylsiloxane, diphenylmethyl dimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicatos, phenyltrimethicones and polymethylphenyl siloxanes and mixtures thereof. 19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil with aromatic group is chosen from tridecyl trimellitate, para-methoxycinnamate, phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsilyphoxysilicate and their mixtures. . 20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase contains at least one oil other than the aromatic group oil selected from lps oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. 21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particular phase is present at a rate of 0.05 to 35% of the total weight of the composition, preferably of 0.5 to 20%. 22. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oily gel, a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion thanks to vesicles. 23. The composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one ingredient selected from perfumes, preservatives, waxes, lipophilic active agents. 24. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of a bar of lipstick, of lip balm, of gloss for lips or of composition to be applied on a film of lipstick. 25. Cosmetic use of the composition according to one of the preceding claims to care for and / or make up the lips. 26. Use of the composition according to one of claims 1 to 24 for the preparation of an ointment intended to treat the lips 27 Procedure for cosmetic treatment of the lips, which involves applying a cosmetic composition on the lips as defined in claims 1 to 25. Use, in a composition containing a liquid staple phase and a particular filler, of the combination of at least one oil comprising a chemical structure provided with at least one aromatic group and a thickener of a indicated fatty phase, said thickener comprising minus one polysaccharide alkylether consisting of units including at least two different ossidic cycles, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain, in order to decrease migration of this liquid grease and / or get a brilliant movie. 29. Procedure for limiting the migration of a makeup or treatment composition of the skin and / or of the lips on a substrate different from said skin and of said lips, containing a liquid fat phase I and a particular load, characterized by it consists in introducing into the liquid fatty phase at least one oil including a chemical structure provided with at least one aromatic group, this fat phase being thickened by a thickener which comprises at least one polysaccharide alkylene ester formed by units which include at least two different osidic rings, each unit including at least one hydroxyl group substituted by a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon alkyl chain.