MXPA01007519A - Cosmetic composition comprising at least a wax and at least a ceramide compound and methods - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition for treating keratinous materials, in particular human hair, comprising at least a wax with a melting point ranging between 70 and 85°C and whereof at least 80%of the carbon chains contain more than 40 carbon atoms and at least a ceramide-type compound. The invention also concerns a treatment method using said composition.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE WAX AND AT LEAST ONE COMPOSITE TYPE OF CERAMIDE AND PROCEDURES DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin materials such as hair, which comprises at least one particular wax and at least one compound of ceramide type as well as to the non-therapeutic treatment procedure with the help with this composition. [0002] Capillary formulations are already known in the state of the art that allow to treat hair damaged by weathering or physical hair treatments (brush-marked, combed ...) or chemical (coloring, permanent ...). Various waxes have already been used for this purpose, which have the advantage of improving the cosmetic properties, among others the disentangling and the softness of wet and dry hair and also protecting the hair fibers from these aggressions. However, these waxes have still insufficient properties and tend to, for example, caking the hair and making it rough, in overlays of treatments. Also known are ceramides or glycoceramides which have already been associated with esters of REF: 131195 cholesterol in order to protect the hair fiber. The application to the hair of these latter compositions or of the ceramides alone leads, however, to insufficient cosmetic performance, both on wet hair and on dry hair. On the other hand, during mechanical treatments such as brush marking, the hair is damaged by the heat of the dryer and the brush passes through the hair to form the hair. Numerous hairs are broken like this during a brush marking. Compositions are therefore sought to protect the hair from this break during these attacks. Now, the applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using compositions containing a particular wax in association with ceramide-type compounds, a significant improvement in cosmetic performance was observed both on wet hair and on dry hair. The applicant firm has noted in particular that the association had a synergistic effect that is not simply the addition of the properties of the two components. In particular, a very good protection effect was obtained with respect to the breakage of the hair during a brush marking, superior to that obtained with either the wax alone, or with the ceramide-type compound alone. The unraveling properties (= ease of combing) are also superior to those of a composition that only contains the ceramide-type compound or the wax. This discovery forms the basis of the present invention. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular hair, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one wax having a melting point in the range of 70. and 85 ° C and of which at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and at least one compound of the ceramide type. The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition defined above for protecting keratin materials, in particular hair, from physical or chemical insults and in particular in relation to those marked with a brush. These compositions also make it possible to improve the cosmetic properties, in particular the softness and the straightening of the hair. According to the present invention, ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides, natural or synthetic, are understood to be compounds of ceramide type. Ceramide-type compounds are described, for example, in patent applications DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95 / 23807, WO94 / 07844, EP-A-0646572, W095 / 16665, FR-2 673 179, EP-A -0227994 and WO 94/07844, WO94 / 24097, WO94 / 10131 whose teachings are included herein by way of reference. The ceramide-type compounds that can be used according to the present invention preferably correspond to the general formula (I): wherein Ri denotes: - either a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, of C? -C50, preferably of C5-C50, this radical being able to be replaced by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by a R7COOH acid, C7 being a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxy, of C1-C35, the hydroxyl (s) of the radical R7 being capable of being esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, of Cj.-c35; - either a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R designates a hydrogen atom or a monohydroxy or monohydroxylated C? ~ C2o hydrocarbon radical, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of the carbon atoms are between 9 and 30, where R 'is a divalent radical. - or a radical R8-0-CO- (CH2) p, R8 denotes a hydrocarbon radical of C? -C20, p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12. R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a radical saccharide type, in particular a radical (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) sulfo-fogalactosyl, a sulphate or phosphate residue, a radical fos forlite ilamine and a radical fos for iletilammonium, in which n is a whole number which varies from 1 to 4 and m is an integer that varies from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a C1-C33 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or not, the hydroxyl (s) being capable of being esterified by a mineral acid or a C7COOH acid, C7 having the same meanings as above, the the hydroxyls etherified by a radical (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphoryl ilamine or phosphoryl ilamonium, wherein R 3 can also be substituted by one or more C? -C? 4 alkyl radicals; Preferably, R3 designates an α-hydroxyalkyl radical of C?-C26, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified by a Ci 6 α-hydroxy acid C3o; R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl radical, a C3-C50 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated or a radical -CH2-CHOH-CH2-0-R6 in which Re designates a hydrocarbon radical of C? o ~ C6 or a radical Rs-O-CO- (CH2) P, RT designates a hydrocarbon radical of C? -C2or P is an integer ranging from 1 to 12, R5 designates an hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated C, -C30 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, the hydroxyl (s) being capable of being etherified by a (glycosyl) nr (galactosyl) m, sulphogalactosyl, phosphoryl-ilamine or phosphoryl-ammonium radical, with the proviso that when R3 and R5 designate hydrogen or when R3 designates hydrogen and R5 designates methyl then R4 does not designate a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical. Among the compounds of formula (I), ceramides and / or glycoceramides whose structure is described by DOWNING in Journal of Lipid Research Vol 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those described in French patent application FR-2 673 are preferred. 179, whose teachings are included here for reference. The more particularly preferred ceramide-type compounds according to the invention are the compounds of formula (I) for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from optionally hydroxylated C 14 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom; and R3 designates a linear radical of optionally hydroxylated Cn-Cn and preferably C13-C15. Such compounds are, for example: - 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, - 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, - 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol , - 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, - 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -amino-octadecan- 1, 3 - diol, 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecan-1,3,4-t-riol and in particular N-stearoyl phytospinesine, 2-N-palmi toylamino-hexadecan-1,3-diol or mixtures of these compounds . It is also possible to use specific mixtures such as, for example, mixtures of ceramide (s) 2 and ceramide (s) 5 according to the DOWNING classification. It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (I) for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from Ci2-C22 fatty acids: R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 designates a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH = CH- (CH2)? 2 -CH3 group. By way of example, mention may be made of the product constituted by a mixture of glycoceramides, sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by the company WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES. It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (I) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994; EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844.

Such compounds are for example QUESTAMIDE H (bis- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cet i 1) malonamide) sold by the QUEST Society, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyl-2-hydroxypropyl) -amide of cetyl acid.

It is also possible to use the N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine described in the patent application WO94 / 24097. The concentration in ceramide-type compounds can vary between 0.0001% and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.001 and 10% approximately and even more preferably between 0.005 and 3%. % in weigh . The waxes which can be used according to the invention preferably have at least 80% by weight of carbon chains comprising from 40 to 65 carbon atoms and preferably more than 95% by weight. The waxes that respond to these characteristics are particularly sunflower wax, in particular the hydrogenated sunflower wax marketed by the Laboratoire Soetenaey whose melting point is approximately 77 ° C (measured in the KOFLER block), the drop point is about 70 ° C and containing more than 95% by weight of carbon chains having from 40 to 65 carbon atoms. The wax concentration according to the invention may vary between 0.0001% and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.001 and 10% approximately and even more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight. The compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between 5% and 30%. %, in relation to the total weight of the composition. This surfactant may be chosen from anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic, cationic surfactants or mixtures thereof. The surfactants that are suitable for the embodiment of the present invention are particularly the following: i) anionic surfactant (s) (s) Its nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have a truly critical character. Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or as a mixture, within the framework of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular the alkali salts, particularly sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; the alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, to Iqui lamidasul phonates, alkylarylsulfonates, -olef ina-sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; the alkylsulfosuccinamates; the alkylsulfoacetates; the alkyl ether phosphates; acyl sarcosinates; the acyl isethionates and the N-acyl taurates, including the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably contain from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical designates preferably a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which may also be used, mention may also be made of salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, copra oil acids or hydrogenated copra oil; acyl-lact ilates whose acyl radical comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use poorly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid (C6-C24) alkyl acids, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid (C6-C24) alkyl aryl ether acids, the acids polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (Ce-C24) amido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof. Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and their mixtures according to the invention. (ii) Non-ionic surfactant (s): The nonionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see particularly in this respect "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie &Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178) and their nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have a critical nature. Thus, alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids having a fatty chain including, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms can be chosen from among (non-limiting list). The number of groups of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide can range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can range from 2 to 30. The copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene, the condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; having the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, including the polyglycerolated fatty amides on average from 1 to glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; having the polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably from 2 to moles of ethylene oxide; having the esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (C? 0-C? 4) amines or N-acylaminopropymorpholine oxides. It will be appreciated that the alkyl polyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which enter particularly well within the framework of the present invention. (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s) The amphoteric surfactants, whose nature is not critical in the context of the present invention, can be particularly (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a straight or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of alkoxy (C8-C20) et al, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkyl, amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) betaines or alkyl (CB-C20) amidoalkyl (Cj.-C6) sulfobetaines. Among the derivatives of amines, mention may be made of the products marketed under the name MIRANOL, such as those described in US-2 528 378 and US-2 781 354 and of structures: R2-CONHCH2CH2-N (R3) (R4) (CH2COO-) (2) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an acid R2-COOH present in hydrolyzed copra oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 designates a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R5-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3) in which: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (Cr] 2) zY', where z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'designates -COOH or the radical -CH2-CHOH-S03H R5 designates an alkyl radical of an Rg-COOH acid present in the copra oil or in the hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, particularly of C7, C9, Cu, C13, an alkyl radical of C? 7 and its iso form, an unsaturated C? 7 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacet ate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacet ate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetat e, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC. In the compositions according to the invention, mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and of amphoteric or nonionic surfactants are preferably used. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant. Preferably, an anionic surfactant is used selected from the sodium (triethanolamine or ammonium) alkyl (C? 2-C?) Sulfates, the sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium oxietile (C12-C14) alkyl ether sulphates reacted in 2.2. moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium (C14-C16) alpha-sulfonate and their mixtures with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives termed disodiococoamfodipropionate or sodiumcocoamofopropionate marketed in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution with 38% active substance or under the name MIRANOL C32; or an zwitterionic amphoteric surfactant such as alkyl betaines in particular cocobetaine marketed under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in 32% aqueous solution of MA by the company HENKEL. It is also possible to use cationic surfactants, among which may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoalkyl rial quimammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, t-alkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkyl pyridinium; the imidazoline derivatives; or the amine oxides of cationic character. The composition of the invention can also contain at least one additive selected from thickeners, perfumes, pearlizing agents, preservatives, sunscreens, anionic or non-ionic or cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, the fatty acids of linear or branched Ci6-C4o chains such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive classically used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions that may range from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is easily determined by the person skilled in the art according to its nature and function.

The cosmetically acceptable medium may consist solely of water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent such as monoalcohols, pofalcohols, glycol ethers and their mixture. The monoalcohols are chosen in particular from the lower alcohols of C?-C4, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-iobutanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers and their mixture. Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the compositions is generally between 2 and 12 and preferably between 4 and 9. The adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be carried out conventionally by supplying a base (organic or mineral) to the composition, for example ammonia or a (poly) primary, secondary or tertiary amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or even by addition of a mineral or organic acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as for example citric acid The compositions according to the invention can be more particularly used for the washing or treatment of keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp and more particularly hair. . In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and foaming baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, generally aqueous. The surfactant (s) which form the washing base can be indistinctly chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants as defined above. The quantity and quality of the washing base are sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power. Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the composition final. The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or hair, characterized in that it consists of applying a cosmetic composition on the keratin materials as defined above, then optionally rinsing with water. Thus, this method according to the invention allows the maintenance of the styling, the treatment, the care or the washing or the make-up of the skin, of the hair or of any other keratin material. The compositions of the invention can also be presented in a form for after the shampoo to be rinsed or not, of compositions for perming, straightening, coloring or decolorization, or also in the form of compositions for rinsing, for applying before or after a coloring, a discoloration , a permanent or a straightening or even between the two stages of a permanent or a straightening. The compositions according to the invention can be used as non-rinsed products, particularly for the maintenance of styling, shaping or combing of the hair. They are more particularly marking lotions, lotions for brush marking, fixing compositions (lacquers) and styling. The compositions of the invention can also be presented in the form of skin cleansing compositions, and in particular in the form of solutions or of gels for bathing or showering or of cleansing products.

The compositions according to the invention can also be presented in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or of the hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of gel, milk, cream, lotion, stick, emulsion, dense lotion or foam and used for skin, nails, eyelashes, lips and more particularly the hair.

The compositions can be packaged in various forms, particularly in vaporizers, sprays or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of a foam. Such forms of conditioning are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for the treatment of the hair. When the composition according to the invention is packaged in the form of an aerosol in order to obtain a lacquer or an aerosol foam, it comprises at least one propellant which can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane , pentane, a chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, compressed air and mixtures thereof as the propellant. In all that follows or the foregoing, the percentages expressed are by weight. The invention will now be illustrated more fully with the help of the following examples which would in no way be considered as limiting to the described embodiments. In the examples, MA means active material.

EXAMPLE 1 The following 4 brush marking compositions were prepared: 1 g of composition was applied to wicks (2.7 g) of hair previously washed and drained. It was left to rest for 5 minutes, the wicks were combed and then rinsed with water.

Sliding wick by wick in wet hair A mobile wick, fixed on a slide bench, was dragged in a horizontal rectilinear motion between two other fixed wicks. The force to be exerted to make the wick slide was measured with the help of an electronic meter connected to the trailing arm. The weaker the sliding force, the better the cosmetic properties.

The results are indicated in the table given below: The sliding force of composition 1 according to the invention is clearly lower than that of compositions 2, 3, and 4.

The composition containing both ceramide and sunflower wax thus has better cosmetic properties than those containing only one of the two compounds.

Brush-marking test: 1 g of composition was applied to wicks (2.7 g) of hair previously washed and drained. It was left to rest for 5 minutes, the wicks were combed and then rinsed with water. A brush marking was carried out with the help of a brush and a hair dryer. The brush marking was done by passing the brush from the root to the tip. The broken hair was carefully recovered from the brush with the help of a comb, then weighed. The mass of hair recovered for a wick was taken to the mass of hair recovered for one gram of hair starting. The mass of hair recovered for each of the compositions 1 to 4 was compared. The higher the mass of broken hair, the less the composition protects the hair. The results are indicated in the table given below: Compositions tested invention comparat i vo comparat i vo comparat i o Mass of hair recovered at 7 mg / g 12.1 mg / g 13.1 mg / g 17.5 mg / g brush after brush marking It is observed that the mass of hair recovered in the brush after brush-marking has clearly decreased (-28%) for the composition according to the invention 1 which contains both the ceramide and the sunflower wax.

EXAMPLE 2 The composition of the following shampoo was prepared Lauryl ether sulphate of 2.2 moles of 15 g oxide MA ethylene in 70% aqueous solution of MA Cocoil betaine 30% MA 2.5 g MA Quaternized guar gum (Jaguar C 13S 0.05 g RHODIA CHIMIE) viscosity PDMS 300 000 cSt 2.7 g Ether of cetyl and of hydroxy 2 cetyl 2.5 g is tearyl / cetyl alcohol Monoisopropanilamide of copra acid 1 g Hydrogenated sunflower wax (Laboratoire 0.5 g SOETENAEY) N-Oleoidihydrosphingosine 0.01 g Conservative Csp Perfume Csp Water csp 100 g The hair treated with this composition have very good cosmetic properties.

EXAMPLE 3 A post-rinse shampoo composition was prepared with the following composition: Alcohol cet ilest earílic (50/50 by weight) 5 g Myristate mixture, palmitate, stearate of 1 g myristyl, cetyl and stearyl 80% behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride of MA 3.2 gMA (GENAMIN KDMP of CLARIANT) Polydimethyl siloxane with amino groups ethyl 1.05 gMA iminopropyl in cationic emulsion (35% MA in water) Glycerin 3 g Hydrogenated sunflower wax 0.5 g N-oleoildihidroesf ingosina 0.1 g Conservative is Perfume es Agua csp 100 g EXAMPLE 4 A post-rinse shampoo composition was prepared with the following composition: N- (2-hydroxy-hexadecanoi 1) -2-amino octadecan 0.1 g 1, 3-diol Hydrogenated sunflower wax 0.4 g 80% behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride of 1.6 gMA MA (GENAMIN KDMP of CLARIANT) Water csp 100 g EXAMPLE 5 A post-rinse shampoo composition was prepared with the following composition: Cetilesteric alcohol (50/50 by weight) 6 g 80% behenyltrimethyl ammonium chloride MA 4 gMA (GENAMIN KDMP from CLARIANT) Polydimethyl siloxane with amino ethyl groups 0.7 gMA iminopropyl in cationic emulsion (35% MA in water) Glycerin 3 g Hydrogenated sunflower wax 2 g N-oleoidihydroesf ingosine 0.1 g Conservatives Cs Water csp 100 g It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (20)

CLAIMS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property.

1. The cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one wax having a melting point comprised between 70 and 85 ° C and of which at least 80% of the carbon chains have more than 40 carbon atoms and minus a compound of the ceramide type.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound corresponds to the general formula (I): in which - Ri des igna: - either a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, of C? -C50, preferably of C5-C5o, this radical being able to be replaced by one or more hydroxyl groups optionally esterified by a R7COOH acid, C7 being a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxy, of C1-C35, the hydroxyl (s) of the radical R7 being capable of being esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, from C? ~ C35; - either a radical R "- (NR-CO) -R ', R designates a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical of C?-C20 mono or polyhydroxy, preferably monohydric, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of the carbon atoms are between 9 and 30, where R 'is a divalent radical. - or a radical R8-0-CO- (CH2) p, R8 denotes a hydrocarbon radical of C? -C2o, p is an integer ranging from 1 to 12. R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a radical saccharide type, in particular a radical (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) sulphogalactosyl, a sulphate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and a phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer that varies from 1 to 8; - R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a C1-C33 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or not, the hydroxyl (s) being capable of being esterified by an acid-mineral or a C7COOH acid, C7 having the same meanings as above, the or the hydroxyls etherified by a radical (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sul-fogalactosyl, phosphoryl-ilamine or phosphoryl-ammonium, wherein R 3 can also be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals; Preferably, R3 designates an α-hydroxyalkyl radical of C15-C26, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified by an α-hydroxy acid of C? 6 ~ C30; R4 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl radical, a C3-C50 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated or a radical -CH2-CHOH-CH2-0-R6 in which R6 denotes a hydrocarbon radical of C? o-C26 or a radical R8-0-CO- (CH2) P, R8 designates a hydrocarbon radical of C? ~ C2o P is an integer ranging from 1 to 12, R5 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical of C? -C30 saturated or unsaturated, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, the hydroxyl (s) being capable of being etherified by a radical (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulfogalactosyl, fos foriletilamine or phosphorylethylammonium, with the proviso that when R3 and R5 designate hydrogen or when R designates hydrogen and R5 designates methyl then R4 does not designate a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical.

3. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound is selected from the group consisting of: - 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, - 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, - 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, - 2-N- is tearoylamino-octadecan- 1, 3-diol, - 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecan-l, 3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] -amino-octadecan-1, 3-diol, 2 - N-est earoil amino-octadecan- 1, 3, 4-t riol and in particular the N-estearoil fit oespingosina, 2-N-palmi t-oylamino-hexadecan-1,3-diol or mixtures of these compounds.

4. The composition according to any of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the compound of ceramide type is selected from the bis (N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide, the N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) cetyl acid amide) and the N-docosanoyl N-met il-D-glucamine.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ceramide-type compound (s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between the 0.001 to 10% by weight and more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the indicated wax contains at least 80% of carbon chains comprising from 40 to 65 carbon atoms.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the indicated wax is present in concentrations ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.001 and 10. % by weight and more preferably between 0.005 and 3% by weight.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant selected from the anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at a concentration comprised between 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and still more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium is constituted by water or a mixture of water and by at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent.

11. The composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable solvents are selected from the group consisting of monoalcohols, polyalcohols, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of gel, milk, lotion, stick, cream, dispersion, dense lotion or foam.

13. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a product for combing, maintaining the hairstyle, or shaping.

The composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is conditioned in the form of a vaporizer, an atomizer or in an aerosol container with a view to obtaining an atomization, a lacquer or a foam.

15. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it also comprises at least one additive selected from thickeners, perfumes, pearlizing agents, preservatives, sunscreens, anionic or non-ionic or cationic polymers. or amphoteric, the proteins, the protein hydrolysates, the fatty acids of linear or branched Ci6 ~ C4o chains such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, the hydroxy acids, the vitamins, the panthenol, and the fatty esters.

16. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it is presented in the form of shampoo, after washing with shampoo, of composition for the permanent, the straightening, the coloring or the discoloration of the hair, of clarifying composition to be applied between the two stages of a permanent or a straightening, washing composition for the skin.

17. The use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16 for the washing of keratin materials such as hair.

18. The process for treating keratin materials, such as hair, characterized in that it consists of applying a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 on said materials, then optionally rinsing with water.

19. The use of a composition as defined in accordance with any of claims 1 to 16, to protect keratin materials, in particular the hair, from physical or chemical insults.

20. The use of a composition as defined according to any of claims 1 to 16, to protect the hair during those marked with a brush.