MXPA00003717A - Topical compositions for regulating the oily/shiny appearance of skin - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to methods for inhibiting sebaceous gland activity in mammalian skin comprising administration of a topical composition comprising dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceuti cally acceptable salts thereof, and a dermatologically-acceptable carrier. The present invention also relates to methods and topical compositions further comprising agents which regulate the oily and/or shiny appearance of skin, and agents which treat acne and related skin disorders in mammalian skin and scalp. Methods of reducing sebum synthesis with the use of dehydroacetic acid, methods of regulating the oily and/or shiny appearance of skin, and methods of treating acne and other skin disorders are also encompassed by the present invention.

Description

TOPICAL COMPOSITIONS TO REGULATE THE OLEOUS / BRIGHT SKIN APPEARANCE TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to methods for inhibiting the activity of sebaceous glands in mammalian skin using dehydroacetic acid, or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, in a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. The present invention also relates to methods and topical compositions further comprising agents that regulate the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, and agents that treat acne and skin related disorders in the skin and scalp of mammals.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The sebum or fat of the skin is produced in the sebaceous glands located in the pilosebaceous apparatus of the skin and reaches the surface of the skin through the ducts of its hair follicles. The presence of excessive amounts of sebum on the surface of the skin often results in an unattractive cosmetic condition commonly known as "oily skin". Depending on the regions of activity of sebaceous glands and the level of sebum secretion, the population is often classified by skin type, eg, dry, normal, - oily, combined dry / normal, combined dry / oily, or normal / greasy combination (the last two classes hereafter referred to as "combination skin"). People who have a type of oily skin or a combined skin type typically exhibit a greasy and / or shiny appearance between cleanings. After the initial cleansing of the skin, this greasy or shiny appearance generally increases as the day progresses. In order to avoid such appearance, individuals must clean the skin throughout the day, dry the skin, apply oil-absorbing powders to the skin, or take other measures to minimize the appearance of oil or shine. Therefore, it has been desired in the art to provide topical compositions which reduce the synthesis of sebum by the sebaceous glands and minimize the appearance of fat and / or shine on the skin, especially greasy or combined skin. In addition, in the field of cosmetic or make-up compositions, various topical compositions which are supposed to be designed to control the fat and / or shine on the skin are known in the art. For example, facial moisturizers and makeups having said property are known. However, a type of oily or combination skin presents a particular challenge for the formulation of makeup directed to facial use, including bases. As the fat accumulates on the skin of the face of said individuals, the penetration of fat occurs. In other words, the makeup can not sufficiently mask the fat, resulting in a greasy or shiny appearance on the skin. As a result, the coverage and wear resistance of makeup tend to be reduced. It would be desirable to provide a makeup composition that maintains a high degree of coverage and wear resistance after application to all skin types, including oily and combination skin, preferably substantially as originally applied. Although some bases were designed in an attempt to control the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, there is still a need to provide improved topical compositions to reduce sebum synthesis by sebaceous glands and to minimize the appearance of oily and oily skin. / or bright. In addition to minimizing grease and / or gloss, such compositions should not discolour the skin in an unacceptable manner. Therefore, there is a particular need to provide improved skin care compositions and makeup that (i) reduce sebum synthesis by the sebaceous glands, (ii) minimize the appearance of oily and / or shiny skin, (iii) provide and maintain a uniform acceptable appearance and skin tone (ie, even coverage) for prolonged periods after application, and / or (iv) that have a prolonged wear resistance after application. Dehydroacetic acid and its pharmaceutically acceptable salts have hitherto been used as preservatives, antimicrobial and bactericidal agents in cosmetic formulations, food packaging and veterinary drugs. These utilities and many others are further described in Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehvdroacetate and Dehvdroacetic Acid, Journal of the American College of Toxicology, Vol. 4, No. 3, pp. 123-159 (1985). Surprisingly it has been found that dehydroacetic acid and its pharmaceutically acceptable salts are useful when applied topically to inhibit the activity of sebaceous glands. Because the sebaceous gland is a major source of fat on the skin and scalp of a mammal, a basic benefit in controlling the activity of sebaceous glands (eg, sebum secretion) includes a reduction in the level of fat found in sebaceous glands. the skin and hair. As a result, dehydroacetic acid is useful for regulating the appearance of oily and / or shiny skin, including oily and combination skin. It has also been surprisingly found that topical compositions containing these compounds in the form of a facial makeup composition minimize the appearance of grease and / or shine on the skin, provide and maintain substantially uniform coverage and acceptable skin tone during prolonged periods after application, and / or have extended wear resistance after application. Due to the ability of dehydroacetic acid to control sebaceous gland activity, it has also been found useful in the treatment of acne and skin-related disorders in the skin and scalp of mammals, such as eczema, seborrhea, impetigo, psoriasis, rosacea It is an object of the present invention to provide topical compositions for inhibiting the activity of sebaceous glands which results in the effective regulation of the greasy and / or shiny appearance of mammalian skin, especially facial skin. Another object of the invention is to provide such topical compositions that regulate the appearance of oily and / or glossy mammalian skin, provide and maintain substantially uniform coverage for extended periods after application to the skin, provide and maintain an acceptable skin tone during prolonged periods after application to the skin, and / or have extended wear resistance after application to the skin. Another object of the present invention is to provide methods for regulating the appearance of oily and / or shiny skin in mammals and methods for reducing sebum synthesis by the pilosebaceous glands. Another object of the present invention is to provide topical compositions for the treatment of acne and skin related disorders in the skin and scalp of mammals. Other objects of the present invention will be apparent from the following description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a method for inhibiting the activity of sebaceous glands in the skin and scalp of mammals, said method comprising the step of administering a certain type of topical composition to the skin or scalp of a mammal susceptible to gland activity. excessive sebaceous These topical compositions comprise a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives, tautomers thereof, and a dermatologically acceptable carrier. The present invention also relates to methods for regulating the appearance of oily and / or shiny skin using these compositions. In another embodiment, the present invention also relates to topical compositions for inhibiting the activity of sebaceous glands. These compositions comprise a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof, a talc absorbent material, and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Alternative modalities related to topical composition also comprise sebum dissemination reduction materials. Methods for inhibiting excessive sebaceous gland activity using the above compositions are also within the scope of the invention. In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a topical composition for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin. These compositions comprise a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof, an active for controlling the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, and a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier. Methods for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin with the above compositions are also within the scope of the invention. In another embodiment, the present invention relates to methods and topical compositions for treating acne on the skin or scalp of a mammal. These compositions comprise a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof, an anti-acne auxiliary active, and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. Also included in this embodiment is a method for treating acne with a composition comprising a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof, and a dermatologically acceptable vehicle. All percentages and ratios used herein, unless otherwise specified, are by weight and all measurements are made at 25 ° C, unless otherwise designated. The invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of, the essential as well as optional ingredients and components described herein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention are useful as topical compositions, that is, they are suitable for topical administration to mammals. As used herein, "topical" means applied on the surface of the skin or scalp. The compositions of the present invention are administered topically to a biological subject, i.e., by direct dissemination or placement of the composition on the skin or scalp of the subject. The topical compositions comprise a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid (or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof) and a dermatologically acceptable topical carrier. As used herein "comprising" means that other steps and ingredients may be added that do not affect the final result. This term includes the terms "consisting of" and "consisting essentially of". The phrase "consisting essentially of" means that the composition may include additional ingredients, but only if the additional ingredients do not materially alter the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed compositions or methods. As used herein, "safe and effective amount" means a sufficient amount of a compound, composition or other material described by this phrase to significantly induce a positive modification in the condition to be treated, but low enough to avoid side effects. important (for example, irritation or sensitization of the important skin), within the reach of the judgment of the person skilled in the art. The safe and effective amount of the compound, composition or other material may vary with the particular treated skin, the physical condition and age of the biological subject to be treated, the severity of the condition, the duration of the treatment, the nature of the concurrent therapy , the specific compound, the composition or other material employed, the cosmetically acceptable topical vehicle used in particular and similar factors within the knowledge and experience of the person skilled in the art. The term "dermatologically acceptable", as used herein, means that the compositions or components thereof described in such manner are suitable for use in contact with mammalian skin without producing toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response and the like. . As used herein, "inhibiting sebaceous gland activity" means preventing, slowing, reducing and / or minimizing sebum production. As used herein, "regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin" means preventing, retarding and / or preventing the appearance of fat and / or shine on the skin. By regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, one or more of the following benefits are achieved: there is a noticeable decrease in the fat, shine, oil, or visible marks on the skin; the skin is substantially free of grease, gloss, or visible marks; the skin has a substantially matt finish; the user has a more uniform appearance. The regulation of the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin can result in a more uniform and prolonged skin coverage by the composition, improved wear resistance of the composition and / or a decrease in the incidence or severity of the fat. of the skin that penetrates the composition to become -apparent. In addition, the resulting reduction of skin fat (e.g., tactile sensation) also prevents and / or reduces other negative effects associated with excessive skin fat, such as, itching, redness, irritation and inflammation. As used herein, "mixtures" is intended to include a single combination of materials and any compound that may result from such combination.

I. Dehydroacetic Acid The compositions of the invention comprise dehydroacetic acid having the structure: or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof (hereinafter referred to as "dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof"), in an amount that is safe and effective for (i) reducing the synthesis of sebum by the glands pilosebaceous, (ii) regulate the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, and (iii) treat acne and other skin-related disorders, on the skin and scalp of mammals. The compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, and still most preferably around from 1% to about 5% dehydroacetic acid or dermatologically acceptable salts, derivatives, or tautomers thereof. As used herein, "pharmaceutically acceptable" means that the dehydroacetic acid salts are suitable for use in contact with the tissues of mammals to which they will be exposed without causing toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, and the like, mixed with a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. As used herein, "skin-related disorders on the skin and scalp of mammals" means medical conditions that result from skin fat, such as, eczema, seborrhea, impetigo, psoriasis, rosacea. The technical name for dehydroacetic acid is 3-acetyl-6-methyl-2H-pyran-2,4 (3H) -dione and can be purchased commercially under the trade name Unisept DHA® from Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ., located in Brooklyn, NY. Dermatologically acceptable salts include alkali metal salts, such as sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium and magnesium; non-toxic heavy metal salts; ammonium salts; and trialkylammonium salts, such as trimethylammonium and triethylammonium. The sodium, potassium and ammonium salts of dehydroacetic acid are preferred. The dehydroacetic acid derivatives include but are not limited to, any 1 compound wherein the CH3 groups are replaced individually or in combination by amides, esters, amino groups, alkyls and alcohol esters. The tautomers of dehydroacetic acid are the isomers of dehydroacetic acid that can change from one to another with great ease so that they ordinarily exist in equilibrium. Therefore, the tautomers of dehydroacetic acid can be described by the chemical formula C8HsO and generally have the above structure. Dehydroacetic acid is soluble in water and has no important formulation aspects. Although the activity of dehydroacetic acid to inhibit the activity of sebaceous glands is not compromised by pH, it is expected that the risk of eye irritation will increase significantly as the pH of the formulation decreases. ll. Auxiliary Assets The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise one or more auxiliary actives capable of functioning in different ways to increase the benefits of the dehydroacetic acid and / or provide other benefits. These auxiliary assets (i) increase the reduction of sebum synthesis, (ii) help regulate the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, or (ii) provide anti-acne benefits that complement the benefits of dehydroacetic acid. The auxiliary active ingredients useful herein are cataloged for their cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it should be understood that the auxiliary active ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or function through more than one mode of action. Thus, the classifications herein are made for convenience purposes and do not attempt to limit the active ingredient to the particular application or the applications listed.

A. Fat control agents Sebum absorbing materials The compositions of the present invention can also comprise fat / tallow absorbent materials also known as sequestering agents. Non-limiting examples are clays (e.g., bentonite), talcs, silicas, starches, polymeric absorbents (e.g., MICROSPONGES 5647 and POLYTRAP, both commercially available from Advanced Polymer Systems, Inc. of Redwood City, California, USA), and others similar materials. MICROSPONGES 5647 is a polymer blend derived from styrene, methyl methacrylate, and hydrogel acrylate / methacrylate. Other useful sebum absorbing materials are described in U.S. Patent No. 4,940,578 to Yoshihara, T. et al., Issued July 10, 1990; U.S. Patent No. 4,885,109 to Umemoto, I. et al., issued December 5, 1989; U.S. Patent No. 4,536,399, to Flynn, R. G. et al., issued August 20, 1985; U.S. Patent No. 4,489,058, to Lay, G.E. et al., issued December 18, 1984; U.S. Patent No. 4,619,826 to Lay, G.E. et al., issued October 28, 1986; U.S. Patent No. 4,388,301, to Klein, R. W., issued June 14, 1983; and U.S. Patent No. 4,000,317, to Menda, W.C. et al., issued December 28, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,294,823, to Elliott, T.J. et al., issued October 13, 1981; U.S. Patent No. 5,145,685, to Carmody, W.J., issued September 8, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,386,003, to Greene, C.J. et al., issued on January 31, 1995; PCT application WO 92/00724, published January 23, 1992; all incorporated herein by reference.

Sebum migration reduction material The compositions of the present invention may also comprise materials that reduce the spread of sebum. By reduction of spread / migration of sebum it is understood that these materials retard or stop the migration or movement of sebum from the areas near the sebaceous gland to the rest of the skin or hair. Non-limiting examples are cocamiopylhydroxysultaine in combination with a quaternary halogenide of N, N, N-trialkylaminoalkylenegluconamide, as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,534,964 to Herstein, M.S. et al., issued August 13, 1985; and further in combination with ammonium lauryl sulfate and triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, as described in U.S. Patent No. 4,529,588, to Smith, W.P. et al., issued July 16, 1985; and straight chain dimethyl silicone polymer having the formula: wherein n is a sufficient positive integer to provide a silicone polymer having a molecular weight of about 50,000 or more and a viscosity of about 10,000 centistokes or more, as described in the U.S. patent. No. 4,515,784 to Bogardus, R.E. et al., issued May 7, 1985; all incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

B. Auxiliary sebum suppressant actives The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more auxiliary sebosuppressive actives (eg, in addition to dehydroacetic acid) in an amount that is safe and effective for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance (hereinafter called "OSA") of the skin. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the auxiliary sebum-suppressive actives decrease the sebum output of the pilosebaceous ducts of the skin, thus reducing surface fat. Suitable OSA actives are those that effectively regulate the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin without unacceptable discolouring of the skin, for example, causing unacceptable reddening or blushing of the skin. Suitable auxiliary sebosuppressive actives are described in Karg, G. et al., "Sebosupression," Cosmetics and Toiletries, vol. 102, pp. 140-146 (April 1987); patent of E.U.A. No. 4,593,021, to Hsia, S.L. et al., issued June 3, 1986; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,587,235 to Bittler, D. et al., Issued May 6, 1986; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,529,587 to Green, M.R., issued July 16, 1985; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,210,654 to Bauer et al., Issued July 1, 1980; U.S. Patent No. 4,016,287 to Eberhardt et al., issued April 5, 1977; and U.S. Patent No. 5,587,176 to Warren, R. et al., issued December 24, 1996; all of the above are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Compounds possessing important vasodilating properties are typically unsuitable for use as auxiliary actives. Said vasodilator compounds tend to cause washed or red appearance in the skin, such that their use, especially in facial applications, is not desirable. For example, known vasodilators such as nicotinic acid are not suitable for use herein. Although not preferred, said vasodilator compounds may be added in amounts that do not threaten their vasodilating properties. The vasodilator compounds may be added to the compositions of the present invention preferably from about 0.0001% to about 1%, most preferably from about 0.001% to about 0.1%. The exact amount will depend on the vasodilator compound used in particular because said agents vary widely in potency.

Preferred compositions of the invention comprise as auxiliary sebum suppressants one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of vitamin B3 compound, tocopherol nicotinate, pyridoxine, panthenol, pantothenic acid, thioxolone (6-Hydro-2-oxo-1, 3 -benzoxathiol), hesperetin, and mixtures thereof. As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" refers to a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COOH (ie, nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (notynyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and you come out of any of the following. Examples of derivatives of the vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide. In a preferred embodiment, the auxiliary sebosuppressive actives are substantially pure. By "substantially pure" is meant that the compound described by that phase is at least 90% pure, at least very preferably 95% pure, and most preferably 99% pure. In a preferred embodiment, the auxiliary sebosuppressive active comprises niacinamide, which is preferably substantially pure niacinamide. Therefore, the auxiliary active can essentially comprise: (a) niacinamide; or (b) a mixture of (i) niacinamide and (ii) a compound selected from the group consisting of panthenol, pantothenic acid, pyridoxine, thioxolone, and hesperetin. Preferably, the composition comprises from about 0. 01% to about 25%, by weight, of sebum suppressant active, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5%, still most preferably from about 2% to about 5%. In an especially preferred embodiment, the topical composition comprises from about 2% to about 5% by weight, of niacinamide, which is preferably substantially pure niacinamide. When niacinamide (a vitamin B3 compound) is used in the present invention, the following preventive notes should be observed. It has been found that certain compounds can negatively impact the skin benefits provided by the vitamin B3 compound. Such compounds include ascorbic acid and N-acetyl cysteine. Without attempting to be limited by theory, it is believed that these compounds can form high or sparingly soluble complexes, eg, salts, with the vitamin B3 compound that reduce the availability of the vitamin B3 compound in the skin. It is believed that such complexes have a relatively high molecular weight or are poorly soluble which decreases their availability to the skin. Therefore, in one embodiment of the invention, the compositions do not comprise these compounds or compounds that are capable of forming similar complexes with the vitamin B3 compound. In another embodiment, wherein the composition contains these compounds or compounds that are capable of complexing with the vitamin B3 compound, one or more of the attempts described herein is preferred to minimize or prevent the formation of undesirable complexes. For example, the impact of said compounds on the efficacy of the vitamin B3 compound is reduced with a decrease in pH so that pH adjustments can be used to minimize or counteract such effects. For example, when the composition contains N-acetyl-L-cysteine, the pH of the composition is preferably adjusted from about 2 to about 5, most preferably from about 3 to about 4. The pH adjustment to counteract the substantial impacts on the efficacy is appropriate within the level of the person skilled in the art.

C. Active anti-acne auxiliaries Sebum also plays an important role in the pathogenesis of acne. The ductal increase in sebum production results in an increase of certain bacteria, mainly Propionibacterium acnes, which can initiate a primary follicular inflammation (for example, acne). Due to the role that sebum plays in the etiology of acne, preventive measures are mainly focused on reducing the amount of sebum present in the skin and underlying tissue. Because it has been discovered that dehydroacetic acid reduces sebum synthesis, the compositions of the present invention can be suitably used to treat acne and may contain an auxiliary anti-acne active selected from the group consisting of antimicrobial, anti-androgenic agents, comedolytic / keratolytic agents, and anti-inflammatory agents. As used herein, "treating acne" refers to preventing, delaying and / or preventing the acne formation process, and / or clarifying or curing existing lesions. As used herein, "active anti-acne" means an active capable of preventing, delaying and / or preventing the acne formation process, and / or clarifying or curing existing lesions.

Comedolytic / gueratolytic agents In a preferred composition useful in the present invention, a comedolytic agent and / or keratolytic agents are included as an active together with the dehydroacetic acid. As used herein, the term "comedolytic agent" refers to any compound capable of breaking a comedo. As used herein, the term "keratolytic agent" refers to any compound capable of separating keratinocytes that result in the exfoliation of the epidermis. A safe and effective amount of a comedolytic agent and / or a keratolytic agent can be added to the composition useful in the present invention, preferably from about 0.05% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%. Preferred comedolytic and keratolytic agents useful in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of retinoids, salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, cetyl betaine, sulfur, and resorcinol. Especially preferred is a combination of cetyl betaine and salicylic acid. In a composition for treating preferred acne useful in the present invention, a retinoid, preferably retinoic acid, is included as an active together with the dehydroacetic acid. The inclusion of a retinoid increases the acne treatment benefits of the composition. A safe and effective amount of a retinoid may be added to the compositions useful in the present invention, preferably from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight of the composition, most preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, still very preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%. As used herein, "retinoid" includes all synthetic and / or natural analogs of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds that possess the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds, such as all-trans retinoic acid and 13-cis-retinoic acid. Retinoids are also useful to provide unexpected benefits in the regulation of the condition of the skin, especially the therapeutic regulation of signs of aging of the skin, especially wrinkles, lines and pores. The retinoid for this particular benefit is preferably retinol, retinol esters (eg, C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinylpalmitate, retinyl acetate, retinylpropionate), retinal and / or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid), most preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from some sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids that are useful herein are described in the U.S. Patents. Nos. 4,677,120, issued June 30, 1987 to Parish et al .; 4,885,311, issued December 5, 1989 to Parish et al .; 5,049,584, issued September 17, 1991 to Purcell et al .; 5,124,356, issued June 23, 1992 to Purcell et al .; and reissue 34,075, issued September 22, 1992 to Purcell et al. Other suitable retinoids are tocopheryl retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoic acid (trans- or cis-) adapalene. { 6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid} , and tazarotene (6- [2- (4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl) -etinyl] ethyl nicotinate). One or more retinoids can be used in the present. Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. Most preferred are retinol and retinylpropionate. The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). Preferably, the retinoid is substantially pure, preferably essentially pure. In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain a retinoid in combination with a compound of vitamin B3 and dehydroacetic acid. The compound of vitamin B3 and retinoid provide unexpected benefits in the reduction of sebum synthesis and regulation of the condition of the skin, especially in the therapeutic regulation of signs of aging in the skin, especially wrinkles, lines and pores (from here on further referred to as "regulation of skin condition"). Without attempting to be limited by theory, it is believed that the vitamin B3 compound increases the conversion of certain retinoids to trans-retinoic acid, which is believed to be the biologically active form of the retinoid, to provide synergistic regulation of skin condition (primarily, increased conversion for retinol, retinol and retinal esters). In addition, the vitamin B3 compound unexpectedly mitigates redness, inflammation, dermatitis and the like that may otherwise be associated with topical application of retinoid (often referred to hereinafter, alternatively referred to as "retinoid dermatitis"). In addition, the combined vitamin B3 and retinoid compound tend to increase the amount and activity of thioredoxin, which tends to increase the levels of collagen expression through the AP-1 protein. Therefore, the present invention allows reduced active levels, and thus reduced potential for retinoid dermatitis, while maintaining the positive skin conditioning benefits. In addition, higher levels of retinoids can be used to obtain greater skin conditioning efficiency, without the occurrence of undesirable retinoid dermatitis. The compositions of this invention may contain a safe and effective amount of the retinoid, such that the resulting composition is safe and effective in reducing the synthesis of sebum, preventing acne and regulating the condition of the skin. Preferably, the compositions contain from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight of the composition, most preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, most preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%, of retinoid. The retinol is preferably used in an amount of about 0.01% to about 0.15%; the retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% (eg, about 1%); the retinoic acids are more preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 0.25%; tocopheryl retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoic acid (trans- or cis-) adapalene. { 6- [3- (1-adamantyl) -4-methoxyphenyl] -2-naphthoic acid} , and tazarotene are preferably employed in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2%. When the composition contains a retinoid, the vitamin B3 compound is preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%.

Antimicrobial Agents In a preferred acne treatment composition useful in the present invention, an antimicrobial agent is included as an active together with the dehydroacetic acid. The inclusion of an antimicrobial agent increases the acne treatment benefits of the composition. As used herein, "antimicrobial agent" means a compound capable of destroying microbes, preventing the development of microbes or preventing the pathogenic action of microbes. A safe and effective amount of an antimicrobial agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.001% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, also from about 0.05% to about 2% or from about 0.05% to about 1% of the compositions. Preferred antimicrobial agents useful in the present invention are benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, tetracycline, clindamycin, and azelaic acid.

Anti-inflammatory agents An anti-inflammatory agent can be included as an active together with dehydroacetic acid, for the treatment of acne. A safe and effective amount of an anti-inflammatory agent can be added to the compositions of the present invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%, by weight- of the composition . The anti-inflammatory agent improves the appearance benefits of the skin of the present invention, for example, said agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent that will be used in the compositions will depend on the specific anti-inflammatory agent employed, since such agents vary widely in potency. Spheroidal anti-inflammatory agents include, but are not limited to, corticosteroids, such as hydrocortisone, hydroxyltriamcinolone, alpha-methyldexametasone, dexamethasone phosphate, beclomethasone dipropionates, clobetasol valerate, desonide, desoximetasone, deoxycorticosterone acetate, dexamethasone, dichlorisone, diflorasone diacetate, diflucortolone valerate, fluadrenolone, fluclorolone acetonide, fludrocortisone, flumetasone pivalate, fluosinolone acetonide, fluocinonide, fluorortin butyl esters, fluocortolone, fluprednidene acetate (flupredilidene), flurandrenolone, halcinonide, hydrocortisone acetate, butyrate hydrocortisone, methylprednisolone, triamcinolone acetonide, cortisone, shortdoxone, flucetonide, fludrocortisone, difluorosone diacetate, fluradrenolone, fludrocortisone, diflurosone diacetate, fluradrenolone acetonide, medrisone, amcinafel, amcinafide, betamethasone and the balance of their esters, chloroprednisone, chlorprednisone acetate clocortelone, clescinolone, dichlorisone, diflurp narate, flucloronide, flunisolide, fluorometalone, fluperolone, fluprednisolone, hydrocortisone valerate, hydrocortisone cyclopentylpropionate, hydrocortamate, meprednisone, parametasone, prednisolone, prednisone, beclomethasone dipropionate, triamcinolone, and mixtures of the same. The preferred steroidal anti-inflammatory to be used is hydrocortisone. A second class of anti-inflammatory agents that is useful in the compositions includes non-spheroidal anti-inflammatory agents. The variety of compounds encompassed by this group is well known to those skilled in the art. For a detailed description of the chemical structure, synthesis, side effects, etc. of non-spheroidal anti-inflammatory agents, reference can be made to standard texts, including Anti-inflammatorv and Anti-Rheumatic Drugs, KD Rainsford, Vol. I-III, CRC Press, Boca Raton, (1985), and Anti-inflammatorv Agents, Chemistrv and Pharmacology, 1, RA Scherrer et al., Academic Press, New York (974), incorporated herein by reference. Specific non-spheroidal anti-inflammatory agents useful in the composition of the invention include, but are not limited to: 1) oxicams, such as piroxicam, isoxicam, tenoxicam, sudoxicam and CP-14,304; 2) salicylates, such as aspirin, disalcid, benorilate, trilisate, safaprin, solprin, diflunisal and fendosal; 3) acetic acid derivatives, such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, nomenetacin, sulindac, tolmetin, isoxepac, furofenac, thiopinac, zidometacin, acematacin, fentiazac, zomepirac, clindanac, oxepinac, felbinac and ketorolac; 4) the fenamates, such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic, niflumic and tolfenamic acids; 5) propionic acid derivatives, such as ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, ketoprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen and thiaprofenic acid; and 6) pyrazoles, such as phenylbutazone, oxyphenbutazone, feprazone, azapropazone and trimetazone. 7) antioxidants, such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbic acid esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, other tocopherol esters (eg, acetate, succinate, linoleate). Mixtures of these non-spheroidal anti-inflammatory agents can also be used, as well as the dermatologically acceptable salts and esters of these agents. For example, etofenamate, a flufenamic acid derivative, is particularly useful for topical application. Of the non-spheroidal anti-inflammatory agents, ibuprofen, aspirin, naproxen, flufenamic acid, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam and felbinac are preferred; and more preferred are ibuprofen, naproxen, flufenamic acid, ascorbic acid, and tocopherol sorbate.

Finally, so-called "natural" anti-inflammatory agents are useful in the methods of the present invention. For example, candelilla wax, alpha bisabolol, aloe vera, Manjistha (extracted from plants of the genus Rubia, particularly Rubia Cordifolia) and Guggal can be used. * i (extracted from plants of the genus Commiphora, particularly Commiphora Mukul) and green tea extract.

Antiandrogens In a preferred acne treatment composition useful in the In this invention, an antiandrogen is included as an active together with dehydroacetic acid. As used herein, "antiandrogen" means a compound capable of correcting androgen-related disorders by interfering with the action of androgens on their target organs. The objective organ of the present invention is mammalian skin. A safe and effective amount of an antiandrogen can be added to the compositions useful in the present invention, preferably from about 0.001% to about 5%, most preferably from about 0.001% to about 1%. Antiandrogens that are receptor antagonists Androgen, as well as, antiandrogens that are 5-a reductase inhibitors are useful in the compositions of the present invention. Examples of said antiandrogens are described in greater detail in the U.S. patent. No. 4,888,336 Holt, Metcalf and Levy, issued December 19, 1989; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,110,939, Holt, Metcalf and Levy; issued on May 5, 1992; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,120,742 Rasmusson and Reynolds, issued June 9, 1992; and patent of E.U.A. No. 4,859,681, Rasmusson and Reynolds, issued August 22, 1989; all incorporated herein by reference. See also Stewart, M. and P. Pochi, Antiandrogens and the Skin. International Society of Tropical Dermatology, Vol. 17, No.3, pp. 167-179 (1978); incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Preferred antiandrogens useful for compositions of the present invention are cyproterone acetate, finasteride, chlormadinon acetate, 17-a propylmesterolone, estradiol acetate 17-a, dienoestrol diacetate, estradiol benzoate, inocoterone acetate, spirono-lactone, 11-a hydroxyprogesterone and mixtures thereof. lll. Dermatologically Acceptable Vehicle The compositions of the present invention comprise a dermatologically acceptable vehicle within which dehydroacetic acid is incorporated to allow the dehydroacetic acid, auxiliary actives, and other optional actives to be delivered to the skin at an appropriate concentration. The vehicle can act as a thinner, dispersant, solvent, or the like for the asset (s) that ensures that it can be applied and evenly distributed over the selected target at an appropriate concentration. The vehicle may contain one or more fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders and the like, solids, semi-solids or dermatologically acceptable liquids. The vehicle can be solid, semi-solid or liquid. The vehicle can itself be inert or it can have its own dermatological benefits. Vehicle concentrations may vary according to the selected vehicle and the desired concentrations of the essential and optional components. Suitable vehicles include conventional vehicles and other known vehicles that are dermatologically acceptable. The vehicle must also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and must not unduly impair the stability, efficacy or other benefits of use associated with the compositions of the present invention. The preferred components of the compositions of this invention should be capable of being combined such that there is no interaction that could substantially reduce the effectiveness of the composition under normal use situations. The type of vehicle used in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition. Topical compositions useful in the present invention can be made in a variety of product forms such as those known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, bars, sprays, ointments, pastes, foams and cosmetics (eg, solid, semi-solid or liquid makeup, including foundation, eye makeup, pigmented lip treatments). or non-pigmented, for example, lipsticks, and the like). These product forms can comprise various types of vehicles including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, solids and liposomes. Preferred carriers contain a dermatologically acceptable hydrophilic diluent. As used herein, "diluent" includes materials in which the dehydroacetic acid may be dispersed, dissolved or otherwise incorporated. Hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (eg, C? -C4) and low molecular weight polyols and glycols, including. propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (for example, of molecular weight of 200-600 g / mol), polypropylene glycol (for example, molecular weight of 425-2025 g / mol), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters , 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, propanolic ether, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof. Water is a preferred diluent. The composition preferably comprises from about 75% to about 99.99% of the hydrophilic diluent and dehydroacetic acid in the aforementioned amounts. Examples of suitable carriers with high hydrophobic diluents are described in the U.S.A. No. 5,380,528 to Alban, N.C. et al., issued on January 10, 1995, the patent of E.U.A. No. 5,420,118 to Alban, N.C. et al., issued May 30, 1995, both incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. The aerosols according to the present invention can be formed by adding a propellant to a solution as described above. Exemplary propellants include chloro-fluorinated hydrocarbons of low molecular weight. Additional propellants that are useful herein are described in Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology. 2nd edition. Vol. 2, pp. 443-465 (1972), incorporated herein by reference. Aerosols are typically applied to the skin as a spray product. Preferred vehicles comprise an emulsion such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, and water in silicone emulsions. As will be understood by a person skilled in the art, a specific component will be mainly distributed in water or oil / silicone phase, depending on the solubility / dispersibility in water of the component in the composition. The dehydroacetic acid is distributed mainly in the aqueous phase. Especially oil-in-water emulsions are preferred. The emulsions according to the present invention generally contain a solution as described above and a lipid or oil. The lipids and oils can be derived from animals, plants or oil and can be natural or synthetic (ie, made by man). Preferred emulsions also contain a humectant, such as glycerin. The emulsions preferably contain from about 1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of an emulsifier, based on the weight of the vehicle. The emulsifiers can be nonionic, anionic, or cationic. Suitable emulsifiers are described in, for example, the US patent.

No. 3,755,560, issued August 28, 1973, Dickert et al; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,421, 769, issued December 20, 1983, Dixon et al .; and McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition, pages 317-324 (1986), each incorporated herein by reference. The emulsion may comprise a foam anti-foaming agent to minimize foaming after application to the skin. Foaming anti-foaming agents include high molecular weight silicones and other materials well known in the art for such use. Suitable emulsions can have a wide variety of viscosities, depending on the desired product form. Exemplary low viscosity emulsions, which are preferred, have a viscosity of about 50 centistokes or less, most preferably about 10 centistokes or less, still most preferably about 5 centistokes or less. The preferred emulsions of water in silicone and oil in water are described in greater detail below. a) Silicone water emulsion Silicone water emulsions contain a continuous silicone phase and a dispersed aqueous phase. (i) Continuous Silicone Phase Preferred water-in-silicone emulsions of the present invention comprise from about 1% to about 60%, preferably from about 5% to about 40%, most preferably from about 10% to about 20%. %, by weight of a continuous silicone phase. The continuous silicone phase exists as an external phase that contains or surrounds the discontinuous aqueous phase described hereinafter. The continuous silicone phase contains a polyorganosiloxane oil. A preferred silicone water emulsion is formulated to provide an oxidatively stable vehicle for the optional retinoid. The continuous silicone phase of these preferred emulsions comprises between about 50% and about 99.9% by weight of the organopolysiloxane oil and less than about 50% by weight of a non-silicone oil. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the continuous silicone phase comprises at least about 50%, preferably from about 60% to about 99.9%, most preferably from about 70% to about 99.9%, and still most preferably from about 80% to about 99.9%, of polyorganosiloxane oil by weight of the continuous silicone phase, and up to 50% of non-silicone oils, preferably less than about 40%, most preferably less than about 30%, and still very much preferably less than about 10%, and preferably less than about 2%, by weight of the continuous silicone phase. These preferred emulsion systems provide more oxidative stability to the retinoid over extended periods of time than comparable water-in-oil emulsions containing lower concentrations of the polyorganosiloxane oil. The concentrations of non-silicone oils in the continuous silicone phase are minimized or avoided in order to increase the oxidative stability of the retinol selected in the compositions. Silicone water emulsions of this type are described in the co-pending patent application of E.U.A. Serial No. 08 / 570,275, published on December 11, 1995, in the name of Joseph Michael Zukowski, Brent William Mason, Larry Richard Robinson and Greg George Hillebrand, incorporated herein by reference. The organopolysiloxane oil for use in the composition can be volatile, non-volatile or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. volatile The term "non-volatile", as used in this context, refers to silicones that are liquids under ambient conditions and have an evaporation point (under a pressure atmosphere) of or greater than about 100 ° C. The term "volatile", as used in this context, refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of silicones covering a wide range of volatilities and viscosities. Examples of suitable organopolysiloxane oils include polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes.

Polyalkylsiloxanes useful in the composition herein include polyalkylsiloxanes with viscosities from about 0.5 to about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25 ° C. Said polyalkylsiloxanes can be represented by the general chemical formula R3S0O [R2SiO] xSiR3 wherein R is an alkyl group having from one to about 30 carbon atoms (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl; mixed in the same molecule), and x is an integer from 0 to about 10,000, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight which may vary up to about 10,000,000. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include the polydimethylsiloxanes which are also known as dimethicones, examples of which include the Vicasil® series sold by the General Electric Company and the Dow Corning® 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of suitable polydimethylsiloxanes include Dow Corning® 200 fluid having the viscosity of 0.65 centistokes and a boiling point of 100 ° C, Dow Corning® 225 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point of more than 200 °. C and Dow Corning® 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 350 and 12,500 centistokes, respectively, and boiling points of more than 200 ° C. Suitable dimethicones include those represented by the chemical formula (CH 3) 3 SiO [(CH 3) 2 SiO] x [CH 3 RS 0 O] and Si (CH 3) 3 wherein R is a straight or branched chain alkyl having two to about 30 carbon atoms, andxyy are each integers of 1 or more selected to achieve the desired molecular weight which may vary up to about 10,000,000. Examples of these alkyl-substituted dimethicones include cetylmethicone and lauryldimethicone. Suitable cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes for use in the composition include those represented by the chemical formula [SiR2-O] n wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl) and n is an integer from about 3 to about 8, most preferably n is an integer from about 3 to about 7 and more preferably n is an integer from about 4 to about 6. When R is methyl, these materials are typically known as cyclomethicones. Commercially available cyclomethicones include Dow Corning® 244 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 172 ° C, which mainly contains the cyclomethicone tetramer (ie n = 4), Dow Corning® 344 fluid having a viscosity of 2.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 178 ° C, containing mainly the pentamer of cyclomethicone (ie, n = 5), Dow Corning® 245 fluid having a viscosity of 4.2 centistokes and a boiling point of 205 ° C, which mainly contains a mixture of the tetramer and pentamer of cyclomethicone (ie, n = 4 and 5) and Dow Corning® 345 fluid having a viscosity of 4.5 centistokes and a boiling point of 217 ° C, which mainly contains a mixture of the tetramer, pentamer and hexamer of cyclomethicone (ie, n = 4, 5 and 6).

Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula [(CH2) 3SiO? / 2] x [SiO2] y, wherein x is an integer from about 1 to about 500 yy is an integer from about 1 to about 500. A commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow Corning® 593 fluid. The dimethiconols are also suitable for use in the composition. Their compounds can be represented by the chemical formulas R3S¡O [R2S¡O] xSiR2OH and HOR2SiO [R2SiO] xS¡R2OH, wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl) and x is an integer of 0 to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g., Fluids Dow Corning® 1401, 1402 and 1403). The polyalkylaryl siloxanes are also suitable for use in the composition. Polymethylphenylsiloxanes having viscosities of about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25 ° C are especially useful. It is preferred to use the organopolysiloxanes selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted dimethicones, cyclomethicones, trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethylconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof. It is more preferred to use polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones here. Among the polyalkylsiloxanes that are preferred are the dimethicones. As stated above, the continuous silicone phase may comprise one or more non-silicone oils. The non-silicone concentrations in the continuous silicone phase are minimized or preferably avoided in order to increase the oxidative stability of the selected retinoid in the compositions. Suitable non-silicone oils have a melting point of about 25 ° C or less under a pressure atmosphere. Examples of non-silicone oils suitable for use in the continuous silicone phase are those well known in the chemistry techniques in topical personal care products in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, eg, mineral oil, vegetable oils, oils synthetic, semisynthetic oils, etc. (ii) Disperse aqueous phase The topical compositions of the present invention comprise from about 30% to about 90%, most preferably from about 50% to about 85%, and still more preferably from about 70% to about 80% of a dispersed aqueous phase. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a common term known to those skilled in the art which means that the phase exists as small particles or droplets that are suspended in and surrounded by a continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also known as the internal or discontinuous phase. The dispersed aqueous phase is a dispersion of small aqueous droplets or particles suspended in and surrounded by the continuous silicone phase described above. The aqueous phase can be water, or a combination of water and one or more soluble ingredients or that can be dispersed in water. Non-limiting examples of such optional ingredients include thickeners, acids, bases, salts, chelators, gums, alcohols and water soluble or dispersible polyols, pH regulators, preservatives, sunscreen agents, colorants, and the like. The topical compositions of the present invention typically comprise from about 25% to about 90%, preferably from about 40% to about 80%, most preferably from 60% to about 80%, of water in the dispersed aqueous phase by weight of the composition. (iii) Emulsifier for dispersing the aqueous phase The silicone water emulsions of the present invention preferably comprise an emulsifier. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains from about 0.1% to about 10% emulsifier, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 7.5%, still most preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of emulsifier by weight of the composition. The emulsifier helps to disperse and suspend the aqueous phase within the continuous silicone phase.

A wide variety of emulsifying agents can be employed herein to form the preferred silicone water emulsion. Known or conventional emulsifying agents can be used in the composition, so long as the selected emulsifying agent is chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the composition, and provides the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable emulsifiers include silicone emulsifiers, silicone-free emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof, known to those skilled in the art for use in topical personal care products. Preferably these emulsifiers have an HLB value of about or less than 14, most preferably from about 2 to about 14, and most preferably from about 4 to about 14. Emulsifiers having an HLB value outside these scales can be used. in combination with other emulsifiers to achieve an average of effective heavy HLB so that the combination is within these scales. Silicone emulsifiers are preferred. A wide variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are almost always organopolysiloxane organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes which have been modified to include polyether side chains, such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains and polyether chains containing portions derived from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, ie, compounds containing pendant C2-C30 side chains. Other useful dimethicone copolyols include materials having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic pendant moieties. The emulsifiers of dimethicone copolyols useful herein can be described by the following general structure: wherein R is straight, branched or cyclic alkyl of C1-C30 and R2 is selected from the group consisting of ~ - (CH2) n-O- (CH2CHR3O) mH, - (CH2) n- O- (CH2CHR3O) m- (CH2CHR4O) 0H, wherein n is an integer from 3 to about 10; R3 and R4 are selected from the group consisting of H and straight or branched chain alkyl of C1-C6, such that R3 and R4 are not the same simultaneously; and m, o, x, y, and are selected such that the molecule has an overall molecular weight of about -200 to about 10,000,000, with m, o, x, y y selected independently of integers of zero or greater, such that myo are not zero simultaneously and z is independently selected from integers of 1 or greater. It is recognized that positional isomers of these copolyols can be achieved. The chemical representations illustrated above for the portions of R2 containing the groups R3 and R4 are not intended to be limiting, but are illustrated as such for convenience. Also useful herein are, although they are not strictly classified as dimethicone copolyols, the silicone surfactants as illustrated in the structures of the preceding paragraph, wherein R2 is: ~ (CH2) nO-R5, wherein R5 is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic portion. Non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols and other silicone surfactants useful as emulsifiers herein include copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane-polyether with pendant polyethylene oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant polypropylene oxide side chains, copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane-polyether with pendant mixed propylene oxide and polyethylene oxide side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant mixed poly (ethylene) (propylene) side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant organobetaine side chains , polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant carboxylate side chains, polydimethylsiloxane-polyether copolymers with pendant quaternary ammonium side chains; and in addition other modifications of the foregoing copolymers containing pendent straight, branched or cyclic C2-C30 alkyl portions. Examples of commercially available dimethicone copolyols, useful herein, sold by Dow Corning Corporation are Dow Corning® 190,193, Q2-5220, 2501 Wax, 2-5324 Fluid, and 3225C (the latter material is sold as a mixture). with cyclomethicone). Copolyol of cetyldimethicone is commercially available as a mixture with polyglyceryl isostearate-4 (y) hexyl laurate and sold under the trademark ABIL® WE-09 (available from Goldschmidt). Copolyol of cetyldimethicone is also commercially available as a mixture with hexyl (y) polyglycerol-3 (y) cetyldimethicone oleate and is sold under the tradename ABIL® WS-08 (also available from Goldschmidt). Other non-limiting examples of dimethicone copolyols also include lauryl dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol acetate, dimethicone copolyol adipate, dimethicone copolyol amine, dimethicone copolyol behenate, dimethicone copolyol butyl ether, dimethicone copolyol hydroxystearate, isostearate of dimethicone copolyol, dimethicone copolyol laurate, dimethicone copolyol methyl ether, dimethicone copolyol phosphate, and dimethicone copolyol stearate. See International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, fifth edition, 1993, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

The dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers useful herein are described, for example, in the U.S.A. No. 4,960,764 of Figueroa, Jr. et al., Issued October 2, 1990; European Patent No. EP 330,369, of SanoGueira, published on August 30, 1989; G. H. Dahms, et al. "New Formulation Possibilities Offered by Silicone Copolyols," Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 110, pp. 91-100, March 1995; M. E. Carlotti et al., "Optimization of W / O-S Emulsions and Study of the Quantitative Relationships Between Ester Structure and Emulsion Properties," J. Dispersion Science And Technology, 13 (3), 315-336 (1992); P. Hameyer, "Comparative Technological Investigations of Organic and Organosilicone Emulsifiers in Cosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsion Preparations," HAPPI 28 (4), pp. 88-128 (1991); J. Smid-Korbar et al., "Efficiency and usability of silicone surfactants in emulsions", Provisional Communication, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 12, 135-139 (1990); and D. G. Krzysik et al., "A New Silicone Emulsifier for Water-in-Oil Systems," Drug and Cosmetic Industry, vol. 146 (4) pp. 28-81 (April 1990); incorporated here as a reference in its entirety. Among the non-silicone-containing emulsifiers useful herein are various nonionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C 1 -C 30 fatty acid esters of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C 1 -C 30 fatty acid esters of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C 1 -C 30 fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of C 1 -C 30 fatty acids, C 1 -C 30 esters of polyols, C 1 -C ethers -C30 of polyols, alkyl phosphates, ether polyoxyalkylene fatty phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, and mixtures thereof. Other suitable emulsifiers are described, for example, in McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation; the patent of E.U.A. No. 5,011, 681 to Ciotti et al., Issued April 30, 1991; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,421, 769 to Dixon et al., Issued December 20, 1983; and patent of E.U.A. No. 3,755,560 to Dickert et al., Issued August 28, 1973; these are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Non-limiting examples of these silicone-free emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol 20-sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5-soybean, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, methyl glucose-PPG-2 ester distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolaminatyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene trioleate 20 sorbitan (Polysorbate 85), sorbitan monolaurate, sodium stearate - polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether, polyglyceryl-4 sobestearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetylphosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and mixtures of same. b) Oil-in-water emulsions. Other preferred topical vehicles include oil-in-water emulsions, having a continuous aqueous phase and a hydrophobic, water insoluble phase ("oil phase") dispersed therein. Examples of suitable vehicles comprising oil-in-water emulsions are described in the U.S.A. No. 5,073,371 to Turner, D.J., et al., Issued December 17, 1991, and patent of E.U.A. do not. 5,073,372, to Turner, D.J. et al., issued December 17, 1991, both incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. An especially preferred oil-in-water emulsion, which contains a structuring agent, hydrophilic surfactant and water, is described in detail below. (i) Structuring Agent A preferred oil-in-water emulsion comprises a structuring agent to aid in the formation of a liquid crystal gel network structure. The concentrations of said structuring agents are from about 1% to about 20%, most preferably from about 1% to about 10%, still most preferably from about 3% to about 9% by weight of the topical carrier. Suitable structuring agents are those selected from the group consisting of saturated C 14 to C 30 fatty alcohols, saturated C 1 to C 30 fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 moles of ethylene oxide, diols of C 1 to Saturated C30, saturated C-? 6 to C3o monoglycerol ethers, saturated C1 to C3 hydroxy fatty acids, and mixtures thereof having a melting point of at least about 45 ° C. Preferred structuring agents include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, palmitic acid, polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol which it averages about 1 to about 5 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred structuring agents of the present invention are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, the polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units (steareth-2 ), the polyethylene glycol ether of cetyl alcohol having an average of about 2 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferred structuring agents are selected from the group consisting of stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, steareth-2, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred is steareth-2, available under the trade name Brij® 72 from ICI Americas. (ii) Hydrophilic surfactant Preferred oil-in-water emulsions comprise from about 0.05% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 6%, and most preferably from about 1% to about 3% by weight. less a hydrophilic surfactant which can disperse the hydrophobic materials in the water phase (percentages by weight of the topical vehicle). The surfactant, to a minimum, must be sufficiently hydrophilic to disperse in water. Suitable surfactants include any of the wide variety of known cationic, anionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants. See, McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers. North American Edition (1986) published by Allured Publishing Corporation; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,011, 681; patent of E.U.A. 4,421, 769; and patent of E.U.A. No. 3,755,560; incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The surfactant that was chosen will depend on the pH of the composition and the other components present. Cationic surfactants, especially quaternary dialkylammonium compounds, examples of which are described in the U.S.A. No. 5,151, 209; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,151, 210; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,120,532; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,387,090; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,155,591; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,929,678; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,959,461; McCutcheon's, Detergents & Emulsifiers, (North American edition 1979) M.C. Publishing Co .; and Schwartz, et.al, Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistrv and Technology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; whose descriptions are incorporated herein by reference. Cationic surfactants useful herein include cationic ammonium salts such as those having the formula: wherein R-i is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic aryl or alkaryl group having from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms; R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms, or aromatic aryl or alkaryl groups having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is any compatible anion, preferably selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, methylisulfate, ethiisulfate, tosylate, lactate, citrate, glycolate and mixtures thereof. In addition, the alkyl groups of R-i, R2, R3 and R4 may also contain ester and / or ether linkages, or hydroxy or amino group substituents (for example, the alkyl groups may contain portions of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol). More preferably, R1 is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; R2 is selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms; R3 and R4 are independently selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as already described. More preferably, Ri is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms; R2, R3 and R4 is selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as already described. As an alternative, other useful cationic emulsifiers include aminoamides, wherein in the above structure Ri is alternatively R5CONH- (CH2) n, wherein R5 is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and n is an integer from about 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4, and still more preferably from about 2 to about 3. Non-limiting examples of these cationic emulsifiers include stearamidopropyl-PG-phosphate chloride -dimony, behenamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride, stearamidopropylethylimoniate ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl- (myristiacetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyltenetethylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium lactate and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride. Non-limiting examples of quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactants include those selected from the group consisting of cetylammonium chloride, cetylammonium bromide, laurylammonium chloride, laurylammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, stearylammonium bromide, cetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride bromide cetildimetilamonio, lauryl chloride, bromide lauryl, of stearyldimethylammonium chloride, bromide stearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, bromide stearyltrimethylammonium lauryldimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethyl-ethyl-diethyldimethylammonium, dicythylammonium chloride, decyethylammonium bromide, dilaurammonium chloride, dilaurammonium bromide, distethylammonium chloride, distethylammonium bromide, dicetylmethylammonium chloride, dicetylmethylamide bromide nano, dilaurylmethylammonium chloride, dilaurylmethylammonium bromide, distearylmethylammonium chloride, distearylmethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof. Additional quaternary ammonium salts include those in which the C 1 to C 3 alkyl-carbon chain is derived from a tallow fatty acid or from a coconut fatty acid. The term "sebum" refers to an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids (usually, hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which in general have mixtures of alkyl chains on the scale of C-? 6 to C18. The term "coco" refers to an alkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, which generally have mixtures of alkyl chains on the scale from C-2 to Cu. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts derived from these tallow and coconut sources include ditallowdimethylammonium chloride, ditallowdimethylammonium methyl sulfate, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chloride, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium acetate, ditallowdipropylammonium phosphate, nitrate of Ditalbodimethylammonium chloride, di (cocoalkyl) d-methylammonium chloride, di (cocoalkyl) dimethylammonium bromide, tallowammonium chloride, cocoammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl-PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropylethylimoniate ethosulfate, stearamidopropylmethylchloride - (myristyl-acetate) -ammonium, stearamidopropyl dimethyl-acetylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof. An example of a quaternary ammonium compound having an alkyl group with an ether linkage is ditallowyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride. The most preferred cationic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimyristyldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitydimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl chloride-phosphate -PG-dimonium, stearamidopropylethylammonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyldimethyl- (myristyl-acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyltearylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof. The most preferred cationic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimissyryldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof. A preferred combination of cationic surfactant and structuring agent is behenamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride and / or behenyl alcohol, wherein the preferred ratio is optimized to sustained to improve physical and chemical stability, especially when said combination contains solvent ionic and / or extremely polar. This combination is especially useful for supplying sun blocking agents, such as zinc oxide and octyl methoxycinnamate. A wide variety of anionic surfactants are also useful herein. See, for example, US patent. No. 3,929,678, to Laughiin et.al, issued December 30, 1975, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkylisethylisates, and alkyl ether sulfates and sulfates. Almost always, the alkylisethionates have the formula RCO-OCH2CH2SO3M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation, such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Non-limiting examples of these isethionates include the alkylisethylethates selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocyleethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium stearoyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl ether alkylsulphates and sulfates have the respective formulas ROSO3M and RO (C2H4O) xSO3M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is from about 1 to about 10, and M it is a water-soluble cation, such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of the organic sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula: R1-SO3-M wherein R1 is selected from the group consisting of a saturated, chain aliphatic hydrocarbon radical straight or branched, having from about 8 to about 24, preferably about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms; and M is a cation. Even other anionic synthetic surfactants include the class designated as succinamates, olefin sulphonates having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, β-alkyloxyalkanesulfonates. Examples of these materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate. Other anionic materials useful herein are soaps (i.e., alkali metal salts, eg, sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, almost always having from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 10 to around 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used in the manufacture of soaps can be obtained from natural sources, such as, for example, glycerides derived from vegetables or animals (for example, palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, castor oil, tallow, butter, etc.). The fatty acids can also be prepared synthetically. The soaps are described in greater detail in the U.S. patent. No. 4,557,853, already mentioned. Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are also useful herein. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants that can be employed in the compositions of the present invention are those described in detail as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferably C 8 -C 8) and one containing an anionic water solubility group, for example, carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Examples are alkyliminoacetates and iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates of the formulas RN [CH2) mCO2M] 2 and RNH (CH2) mCO2M, wherein m is from 1 to 4, R is a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, and M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal ammonium or alkanolammonium. Also included are imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Specific examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecyl aminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropansulfonate, N-alkyl taurines such as that prepared by the reaction of dodecylamine with sodium isethionate in accordance with the patent of E.U.A. 2,658,072 which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety; N-higher alkyl aspartic acids such as those produced in accordance with the patent of E.U.A. 2, 438.091 which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety; and the products sold under the trademark "Miranol" and described in the patent of E.U.A. 2,528,378 which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Other examples of useful amphoteric include phosphates, such as coamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (commercially available as Monaquat PTC, from Mona Corp.). Also present in the present invention are betaines as amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Examples of betaines include the higher alkyl betaines, such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetyldimethylbetaine (available as Lonzaine 16SP from Lonza Corp.), lauryl-bis- (2-ethoxyethyl) -carboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) aIfa-carboxymethylbetaine, cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, lauryl-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) sulfopropylbetaine, and amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (where the radical RCONH (CH2) 3 is bonded to the nitrogen atom of betaine), oleylbetaine (available as amphoteric Velvetex OLB-50 from Henkel), and cocamidopropylbetaine (available as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 from Henkel ). Other amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include the sultaines and hydroxysultaines, such as cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine (available as CBS Miratain from Rhone-Poulenc), and the alkanoyl sarcosinates corresponding to the formula RCON (CH 3) CH 2 CH 2 CO 2 M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation, such as ammonium, sodium, potassium, and trialkanolamine (eg, triethanolamine), a preferred example of which is sodium lauryl sarcosinate. (iii) Water The preferred oil-in-water emulsion comprises from about 25% to about 98%, preferably from about 65% to about 95%, more preferably from about 70% to about 90% water by weight of the topical vehicle. The hydrophobic phase is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase. The hydrophobic phase may contain non-soluble or partially water-soluble materials as are known in the art, including but not limited to the silicones described herein with reference to silicone emulsions in water, and other oils and lipids, such as it has already been described with respect to emulsions. The topical compositions of the present invention, including but not limited to lotions and creams, may comprise a dermatologically acceptable emollient. Said compositions preferably contain from about 2% to about 50% of the emollient. As used herein, "emollient" refers to a material useful for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and can be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology. 2a. edition, vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, contains various examples of materials suitable as emollients. A preferred emollient is glycerin. The glycerin is preferably used in an amount of or about 0.001 to about 20%, more preferably at or about 0.01 to about 10%, with still more preference at or about 0.1 to about 5%, eg, 3% . The lotions and creams according to the present invention generally comprise a vehicle system in solution and one or more emollients. Almost always, lotions comprise from about 1% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 10% emollient; and from about 50% to about 90%, preferably from about 60% to about 80% water, and dehydroacetic acid in the amounts already described. Almost always, a cream comprises from about 5% to about 50%, preferably from about 10% to about 20%, of emollient; from about 45% to about 85%, preferably from about 50% to about 75%, of water; and dehydroacetic acid in the amounts already described. The ointments of the present invention may include a simple vehicle base of animal or vegetable oils or semi-solid (oleaginous) hydrocarbons; ointment bases for absorption that absorb water to form emulsions; or water-soluble vehicles, for example, a water-soluble solution vehicle. The ointments may further comprise a thickening agent, as described in Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology. 2nd edition, Vol. 1, pp. 72-73 (1972), incorporated herein by reference, and / or an emollient. For example, an ointment may include from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient; from about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent; and dehydroacetic acid in the amount already described. The compositions of the present invention useful for cleaning ("cleansers") are formulated with a suitable vehicle, for example as described above, and preferably contain, in addition to dehydroacetic acid in the amounts already described, about 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 5% to almost 10%, of a dermatologically acceptable surfactant. The surfactant is suitably chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and ampholytic surfactants, as well as mixtures of said surfactants. Such surfactants are already known to those skilled in the detergent art. Non-limiting examples of possible surfactants include soceteth-20, sodium methylco- coyltaurate, sodium methyloleoyltaurate, sodium lauryl sulfate. See the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,800,197, Kowcz et.al, issued January 24, 1989, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, to exemplary surface active agents which are useful herein. Examples of a wide variety of additional surfactants that are used herein are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Corporation, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The cleaning compositions optionally may contain, at the levels already established in the art, other materials that are conventionally used in cleaning compositions. The physical form of the cleaning compositions is not decisive.

For example, the compositions can be formulated as bath bars, liquids, shampoos, bath gels, hair conditioners, hair tonics, pastes or foams. Bath rods are most preferred, since it is the most common form of cleansing agent used to clean the skin. Rinse-off cleansing compositions, such as shampoos, require a suitable delivery system to deposit sufficient levels of the active ingredients on the skin and scalp. A preferred delivery system encompasses the use of insoluble complexes. For a more complete description of said delivery systems see the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,835,148 to Barford et.al, issued May 30, 1989, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. As used herein, the term "base" refers to a liquid, semi-liquid, semi-solid or solid cosmetic for the skin, including, but not limited to, lotions, creams, gels, pastes, cakes and the like. Almost always, the base is used over a large area of the skin, for example on the face, to provide a particular appearance. The bases are often used to provide an adherent base for colored cosmetics, such as powders, blushes and the like and tend to hide skin imperfections and impart a smooth and uniform appearance to the skin. The bases of the present invention include a dermatologically acceptable vehicle for dehydroacetic acid and may include conventional ingredients such as oils, dyes, pigments, emollients, fragrances, waxes, stabilizers and the like. Exemplary vehicles and other ingredients that are suitable for use herein are described, for example, in the co-pending patent application with serial No. 08 / 430,961, filed on April 28, 1995 under the names of Marcia L. Canter , Brain D. Barford and Brian D. Hofrichter, and the UK patent application GB 2274585-A, published January 23, 1993, both incorporated herein by reference. The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated to have a pH of 10.5 or less. The pH values of these compositions preferably range from about 2 to about 10.5, more preferably from about 3 to about 8, and still more preferably from about 4 to about 7, and also from about 4.5 to about 5.5 IV. Optional ingredients The topical compositions of the present invention may include a wide variety of optional components (e.g., ingredients commonly used in the art of skin care compositions, including but not limited to preservatives, preservative enhancers and assets in addition to primary assets), provided that said optional components are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and that they do not unduly impair the stability, efficacy or other benefits of use related to the compositions herein. invention. Any optional ingredient must be compatible with dehydroacetic acid, so that its activity does not decrease unacceptably, preferably not to an important degree, over a useful period (preferably at least about six months under normal storage conditions). The optional components can be dispersed or dissolved in the vehicle of the present compositions. The compositions of this invention may include as an option other active agents capable of functioning in various ways to enhance the benefits of dehydroacetic acid and auxiliary actives and / or to provide other benefits. The optional components include aesthetic agents and other active agents. For example, the compositions may include absorbers, abrasives, cake antifoaming agents, antifoaming agents, anti-microbial agents. binders, biological additives, pH regulating agents, bulking agents, chemical additives, cosmetic biocides, denaturing agents, cosmetic astringents, astringents with drugs, external analgesics, film formers, humectants, opacifying agents, fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, skin sensitizers, emollients, skin softening agents, skin healing agents, pH adjusters, plasticizers, preservatives, conservation enhancers, propellants, reducing agents, additional skin conditioning agents, skin penetration enhancing agents , skin protectants, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, thickening agents, solubilizing agents, sunscreens, sun blockers, ultraviolet light absorbers or light dispersing agents, tanning agents that do not require sunlight, antioxidants and / or scrubbers. radicals, chelating agents, kidnappers, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-androgens, depilation agents, desquamation / exfoliating agents, organic hydroxy acids, vitamins and derivatives thereof, and natural extracts. These other materials are known in the art. Non-exclusive examples of such materials are described in Harry's Cosmeticology. 7th Ed., Harry &; Wilkinson (Hill Publishers, London 1982); in Pharmaceutical Dosaqe Forms-Disperse Systems; Lieberman, Rieger & Banker, Vols. 1 (1998) and 2 (1989); Marcel Decker, Inc .; in The Chemistry and manufacture of Cosmetics, 2a. Ed., DeNavarre (Van Nostrand 1962-1965); and in The handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 1 st Ed., Knowlton & Pearce (Elsevier 1993). Specific examples of optional components include the following. The active ingredients useful herein are categorized by their cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it will be understood that the active ingredients useful herein may in some cases provide more than one cosmetic and / or therapeutic benefit or operate by more than one mode of action. Therefore, the classifications herein are made for convenience and do not have the principle of limiting the active ingredient to that application or particular applications that are listed.

A. Solar filters and solar blogidoresres Exposure to ultraviolet light can result in significant damage to the skin, as well as flaking and excessive textural changes of the stratum corneum. Therefore, the compositions of this invention preferably contain a sunscreen or sunscreen. The right sunscreens or sunscreens can be organic or inorganic. A wide variety of conventional sunscreen agents is suitable for use herein. Sagarin, et.al, in Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., Of Cosmetics Science and Technology (1972), discloses numerous suitable agents, and is incorporated herein by reference. For example, suitable specific sunscreen agents include: p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl esters, isobutyl esters, glyceryl esters, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (ie, o-amino-benzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, allyl, terpinyl and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, octyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and di-pro-phenylglycolic esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenylcinnamonitrile, butylcinnamoyl pyruvate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphine); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acids and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); dihydroxynaphthoic acid and its salts; o- and p-hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzoxazole, methylnaphthoxazole, various arylbenzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate and tannate); quinoline derivatives (salts of 8-hydroxyquinoline, 2-phenylequinoline); hydroxy- or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; uric and voluric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (for example, hexaethyl ether); (butylcarbotol) (6-propylpiperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxibenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, octabenzone, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, ethacrylene, octocrylene; - (4'-methylbenzyldenboman-2-one) and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane Of the above, the preferred ones are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (commercially available as PARSOL MCX), 4,4'-t- butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (commercially available as PARSOL 1789), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digaloyltriolate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4- (bis (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-tri-methylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate , 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid or, octocrylene and mixtures of said compounds. The most preferred organic sunscreens useful in the compositions of utility in the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, octyl dimethyl- p-aminobenzoic acid, octocrylene and mixtures thereof. Also particularly useful in the compositions are sunscreens such as those described in the U.S.A. No. 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on June 26, 1990, and patent of E.U.A. No. 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli and Spirnak on March 12, 1991, which are incorporated herein by reference. The sunscreen agents disclosed therein have, in a single molecule, two different chromophore portions that show different absorption spectra of ultraviolet radiation. One of the chromophore portions is absorbed predominantly on the UVB radiation scale and the other is strongly absorbed on the UVA radiation scale. Preferred members of said class of sunscreen agents are 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) -methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone.; N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methyl-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane; N, N-d i- (2-ethyl hexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone; and N, N-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -4-aminobenzoic acid ester of 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof. Suitable sunscreens or inorganic sunscreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. For example, the use of a titanium dioxide in topical sunscreen compositions that apply to the present invention is described in the co-pending patent application series No. 08 / 448,942, filed on May 24, 1995, under the names of Jiang Yue, Lisa R. Dew and Donald L. Bissett, incorporated here as a reference. Preferred sunscreens or sunscreens especially include metal oxides, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, butylmethoxydibenxoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and octocrylene. A safe and effective amount of sunscreen or sunscreen is used, typically from about 1% to about 20%, most often from about 2% to about 10%. The exact amounts will vary depending on the selected sunscreen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF).

An agent can also be added to any of the compositions useful in this invention to improve the permanence in the skin of said compositions, particularly to improve their resistance to washing with water or rubbing. A preferred agent that will provide this benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. The compositions comprising this copolymer are described in the U.S.A. 4,663,157, Brock, issued May 5, 1987, which is incorporated herein by reference.

B. Antioxidants / radical scavengers Preferred compositions of this invention include an antioxidant / radical scavenger. The antioxidant / radical scavenger is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can cause an increase in scale or texture changes in the stratum corneum and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. In addition, antioxidants are useful to reduce inflammation associated with acne, as already explained. A safe and effective amount of an antioxidant / radical scavenger can be added to the compositions of the invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. The antioxidants / radical scavengers such as ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbic fatty acid esters, ascorbic acid derivatives (eg, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherol (vitamin E), sorbate can be used. of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, other tocopherol esters, butylated hydroxybenzoic acids and their salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (commercially available under the name Trolox®), gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propylgalate, uric acid and its alkyl salts and esters, sorbic acid and its salts, amines (e.g., N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., gutationa), dihydroxyfenic acid and its salts, licina pidolate, arginine pilolate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, bioflavanoids, licina, methionine, proline, superoxide dismutase, silymarin, tea extracts (eg green tea extracts), and xtracto of grape / skin seed, melanin, and rosamarin extracts. Preferred antioxidants / radical scavengers are selected from tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters, more preferably tocopherol sorbate. For example, the use of tocopherol sorbate in topical compositions and applicable to the present invention is described in the U.S.A. No. 4,847,071, issued July 11, 1989 to Donal L. Bisset, Rodney D. Bush and Ranjit Chatterjee, incorporated herein by reference.

C. Chelators As used herein, "chelating agent" refers to an active agent capable of removing a metal ion from a system by forming a complex such that the metal ion can not be easily divided or catalyze in chemical reactions. The inclusion of a chelating agent is especially useful to provide protection against UV radiation that can contribute to excessive scaling or changes in skin texture and against other environmental agents that can cause skin damage. A safe and effective amount of a chelating agent can be added to the compositions of this invention, preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of the composition. Exemplary chelators that are useful herein are described in the US patent. 5,487,884, issued on 30/1/96 to Bissett et.al; International Publication No. 91/16035, Bush et.al, published on 10/31/95; and International Publication No. 91/16034, Bush et.al, published 10/31/95; which are incorporated herein by reference. Preferred chelators useful in the compositions of the subject invention are furildioxime and derivatives thereof. D. Organic Hydroxy Acids and Keto Acids The compositions of the present invention preferably include a hydroxy acid and / or an organic keto acid to provide benefits in the regulation of skin condition, especially in the therapeutic regulation of skin aging marks, in a more special way, wrinkles, fine lines and pores. Suitable hydroxy acids include hydroxy acids of C-i-ds, preferably C8 or less. The hydroxy acids can be substituted or unsubstituted, straight chain, branched or cyclic chain (preferably straight chain), and saturated or unsaturated (mono- or poly-unsaturated) (preferably saturated). Non-limiting examples of suitable hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, 5-octanoylsalicylic acid, hydroxyoctanoic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid and lanolin fatty acids. A non-limiting example of a keto acid is pyruvic acid. The preferred concentrations of hydroxy acid and / or organic keto acid vary from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%. Lactic acid, salicylic acid and pyruvic acid are preferred. Preferred hydroxy acids improve the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, organic hydroxy acids tend to improve the texture of the skin.

E. Peeling / Exfoliating Agents: Preferably a safe and effective amount of desquamation agent can be added to the compositions of the invention, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.2%. to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 4% of the composition. The desquamation agents enhance the appearance benefits of the skin of the present invention. For example, desquamation agents tend to improve the texture of the skin (e.g., softness). A variety of desquamation agents are known in the art and are suitable for use herein, including but not limited to the organic hydroxy agents described above. A desquamation system that is suitable for use herein comprises sulfhydryl compounds and zwitterionic surfactants and is described in copending application no. series 08 / 480,632, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Donald L. - Bissett, corresponding to PCT application no. E.U.A.95 / 08136, filed June 29, 1995, each incorporated herein by reference. Another desquamation system that is suitable for use in the present patent comprises salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactant and is disclosed in co-pending patent application no. series 08 / 554,944, filed on November 13, 1995 as a continuation of serial number 08 / 209,401, filed on March 9, 1994 in the name of Bissett, corresponding to the PCT application no. 94/12745, filed on November 4, 1994, published May 18, 1995, each incorporated herein by reference. Zwitterionic agents such as those described in these patents are also useful as peeling agents of the present invention, with cetylbetaine being particularly preferred.

F. Hair Removal Agents The compositions of this invention may include a safe and effective amount of a depilation agent. If used, the composition preferably contains from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from -about 0.5% to about 2% depilation agent. A preferred hair removal agent for use herein includes a sulfhydryl compound, for example, N-acetyl-L-cystine. The use of said depilation agents is described in more detail in the co-pending application serial No. 08 / 479,878, filed on June 7, 1995, in the name of Greg G. Hillebrand and Vladimir Gartstein, corresponding to the PCT application No. EUA95 / 07311, filed on June 8, 1995, each incorporated as reference.

G. Skin lightening agents The compositions of the present invention may comprise a skin lightening agent. When used, the compositions preferably comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, most preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% of an agent to clarify the skin. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, e.g., magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Suitable skin lightening agents for use in the present invention also include those described in co-pending patent application no. series 08 / 479,935, filed on June 7, 1995 in the name of Hillebrand, corresponding to PCT application no. E.U.A. 95/07432, filed June 12, 1995; and the co-pending patent application with no. No. 08 / 390,152, filed on February 24, 1995 in the names of Kalla L. Kvalnes, Mitchell A. DeLong, Barton J. Bradbury, Curtis B. Motley and John D. Carter, corresponding to PCT application no. E.U.A. 95/02809, filed on March 1, 1995, published on September 8, 1995; incorporated herein by reference.

H. Zinc salts When a vitamin B3 compound is included in the present composition, the compositions of this invention may further include a zinc salt. Particularly preferred are zinc salts wherein the composition contains a sulfhydryl compound, for example N-acetyl-L-cysteine. Without the purpose of limiting or adhering to the theory, it is believed that the zinc salt acts as a chelating agent capable of forming a complex with the sulfhydryl compound before topical application, stabilizes the sulfhydryl compound and / or controls the odor related to the sulfhydryl compound. The zinc salt concentrations may vary from about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, with even greater preference from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight of the composition. Preferred zinc salts include zinc acetate, zinc acetate hydrates, such as zinc acetate-2-water, zinc-aluminum-oxide complexes, such as gahnite, zinc diamine, zinc anitmonide, zinc bromohydrates, such as zinc-bromate-6-water, zinc bromide, zinc carbonates, such as zincspar and smithsonite, zinc hydrochlorides, such as zinc-chlorate-4-water, zinc chloride, zinc diaminichloride, zinc citrate, zinc chromate, zinc dichromate, zinc diphosphate, ferrate (II) zinc hexacyanofloride, zinc fluoride, zinc fluorhydrates, such as zinc-fluoride-4-water, zinc format, zinc format hydrates, such such as zinc-2-water-format, zinc hydroxide, zinc iodate hydrates, such as zinc-iodate-2-water, zinc iodide, zinc iron oxide complexes, zinc nitrate hydrates, such as zinc -nitrate-6-water, zinc nitride, zinc oxalate hydrates, such as zinc-oxalate-2-water, zinc oxides, such as mo zincite, zinc perchlorate hydrates, such as zinc-perchlorate-6-water, zinc permanganate hydrates, such as zinc-pemanganate-6-water, zinc peroxide, zinc p-phenolsulfonate hydrates, such as zinc -p-Phenosulfonate-8-water, zinc phosphate-zinc phosphate hydrates, such as zinc-phosphate-4-water, zinc phosphide, zinc propionate, zinc selenate hydrates, such as zinc-selenate-5 -water, zinc selenide, zinc silicates, such as zinc silicate (2) and zinc silicate (4), zinc-silicon-oxide-water complexes, such as heminorphite, zinc hexafluorosilicate hydrates, such as zinc -hexafluorosilicate-6-water, zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, zinc sulfate hydrates, such as zinc-sulfate-7-water, zinc sulfide, zinc sulfide hydrates, such as zinc-sulfite-2-water , zinc telluride, zinc thiocyanate, zinc salts (II) of N-acetyl-L-cysteine, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred zinc salts include zinc citrate, zinc oxide, zinc chloride, zinc acetate, zinc stearate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof. Zinc citrate is especially preferred.

I. Moisturizers, Humidifiers and Skin Conditioners The compositions of the present invention may further include a moisturizing agent, humectant or other skin conditioning agent. A variety of these materials may be employed and each may be present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from or about 1% or about 10%, and more preferably from or about 2% a about 5%, These materials include guanidine (e.g., urea-guanidine-betaine); glycolic acid and glycolate salts (for example, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactate salts (for example, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); aloe vera and any of its varieties of form (for example, aloe vera gel); polyhydric alcohols, such as sorbitol, glycerol, hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like; polyethylene glycols; sugars and starches; sugar and starch derivatives (eg, alkoxylated glucose); hyaluronic acid; lactammonoethanolamine; acetamidmonoethanolamine; and mixtures thereof. Also useful herein are the propoxylated glycerols described in the U.S.A. No. 4,976,953, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.

Also useful are the various monoesters of C? -C30 and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol portion and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids (unsaturated), fatty acid maleate tetraesters of mixed soybean oil, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, acid arabinose tetraesters linoleic, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester, wherein the carboxylic acid ester portions are palmitoleate and arachididate in a 1: 2 molar ratio; raffinose octaester wherein the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3; maltose heptaester, wherein the portions of esterified carboxylic acid are fatty acids of sunflower seed oil and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3: 4; sucrose octaester, wherein the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2: 6; and sucrose octaester, wherein the esterified carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A solid material is preferably sucrose polyester, in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid portions are C- and behenic mono- and / or di-unsaturated in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5. A solid sugar polyester of particular preference is the octaester of sucrose, wherein there are about 7 portions of behenic fatty acid and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule. Ester materials are described in greater detail in the U.S.A. No. 2,831, 854, U.S. Patent No. No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued on January 25, 1977; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,005,195 to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977, patent of E.U.A. No. 5,306,516, to Letton et.al, issued April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,306,515, to Letton et.al, issued April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 5,305,514, to Letton et.al, issued April 26, 1994; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,797,300 to Jandacek et.al, issued January 10, 1989; patent of E.U.A. No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et.al, issued June 15, 1976; patent of E.U.A. No. 4,518,772, to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and patent of E.U.A. No. 4,517,360 to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; which are incorporated in their entirety as a reference in this.

J. Other Optional Components The compositions of the present invention may also include an extract obtained by physical and / or chemical isolation suitable from natural sources (e.g., plants, fungi, microorganism byproducts), including those known in the art. personal topical care. Preferred extracts are those which improve the appearance benefits of the skin of the present invention, and which preferably are employed in a safe and effective amount, more preferably in an amount of 0.1% to about 20%, even more preferably from 0.5% to around 10%, also from 1% to around 5%. Said extracts include plant and fungal extracts such as yeast extracts, rice bran and Centella Asiatica. Natural Centella Asiatica extracts are preferred and marketed by MMP, Inc. of Plainfield, New Jersey under the trademark Centella Asiatica E.P.C.A. ("Centella Asiatica Purified Extract") and Genines amel. Genines amel is the purest form of the extract. Compounds known to stimulate collagen production can also be employed in this invention. Such compounds include Factor X (kinetin), Z Factor (zeatin, N-methyl-taurine, dipalmitoyl-hydroxyproline, palmitoylhydroxy wheat protein, biopeptide, CL (palmitoyl-glycyl-histidyl-lysine), ASC III (Collagen synthesis amplifier III, E. Merck, Germany ), and betaglucan The compositions herein may also include natural ceramides or the like, eg, ceramide 1-6 Other examples of additional components useful herein include the following: water-soluble vitamins and derivatives thereof [e.g. vitamin C]; polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols; polymers to assist the film-forming and permanence properties of the composition (such as a copolymer of eicosene and vinylpyrrolidone, an example being that marketed by GAF Chemical Corporation as Ganex® V-220). Also useful are interlaced and non-interlaced nonionic and cationic polyacrylamides [eg, Saleare SC92 having the CTFA designation polyquaternium 32 (and) mineral oil, and Saleare SC 95 having the CTFA designation polyquaternium 37 (and) mineral oil (and ) PPG-1 tridecet-6, and non-ionic Seppi-Gel polyacrylamides available from Seppic Corp.]. Also useful are interlaced and non-crosslinked carboxylic acid polymers and copolymers such as those containing one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids and substituted acrylic acids, wherein the of entanglement contains two or more carbon-carbon double bonds and is derived from a polyhydric alcohol (examples useful herein include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythrol and which are available as the series Carbopol®, and C10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymers with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their short chain esters (ie, C? 0 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythroline, these copolymers are known as C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers / acrylates and are commercially available as Carbopol® 1342, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich. These carboxylic acid polymers and copolymers are described in greater detail in the U.S.A. No. 5,087,445, to Haffley et.al, issued February 11, 1992; the patent of E.U.A. No. 4,509,949, to Huang et.al, issued April 5, 1985; and the patent of E.U.A. 2,798,053, to Brown, issued July 2, 1957; which are incorporated herein by reference. See also CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, fourth edition, 1991, pp. 12 and 80; which is also incorporated herein by reference. Also useful in this invention are aesthetic components, such as fragrances, pigments, dyes, essential oils, skin sensitizers, astringents, skin softening agents, skin healing agents and the like, non-limiting examples of these aesthetic components. include clover oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, cloudy distillate, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and the like.

PREPARATION OF COMPOSITIONS The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods, as is known in the art for the preparation of topical compositions. Almost always, said methods include mixing the ingredients in one or more steps to a relatively uniform state with or without heating, cooling, vacuum application and the like.

METHODS TO REDUCE THE SYNTHESIS OF SEB AND REGULATION OF THE GREASY / BRIGHT SKIN APPEARANCE This invention relates to methods for reducing sebum synthesis and regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin. Such methods include the topical application, to the skin to be treated, of an effective amount of the compositions of this invention to deposit an effective amount of primary active ingredient on the skin. The term "effective amount", as used herein, means an amount sufficient to reduce the synthesis of sebum and regulate the oily and / or shiny appearance of the skin as defined herein. In general, a safe and effective amount of the primary actives is left in contact with the skin for a period sufficient to provide noticeable effects, generally after chronic application as described herein. The composition can be applied for several days, weeks, months or years at appropriate intervals. Preferably the compositions are applied from about four times a day to about one every three days, more preferably from about twice a day to once a day, also about once a day, until a satisfactory reduction in the sebum synthesis or improvement in the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin. The reduction in sebum synthesis and the regulation of the appearance of oily and / or shiny skin can be observed without increase. The methods of reduction by quantification in sebum synthesis in the regulation of the appearance of oily and / or shiny skin, as known in the art, for example, sebum measurement analysis with tape may also be employed, as is known in the art. Almost always, in each application, an effective coating of the skin with primary active ingredient is achieved by topical application (based on mg of active / cm2 of skin) of approximately 0.0002 mg / cm2 to around 0.5 mg / cm2 of ingredient primary active to the skin to be treated. More preferably, from about 0.002 mg / cm2 to about 0.2 mg / cm2 of active ingredient is applied. Even more preferably, about 0.02 mg / cm2 is applied to about 0.1 mg / cm2 of primary active ingredient. The amount of composition that is applied can be, for example, from about 0.01 mg to about 5 mg of composition / cm2 of skin, preferably about 1 to about 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin. The compositions are generally applied with light massage of the composition on the skin, almost always in the amounts already described. The compositions of the invention can also be used to reduce sebum synthesis and regulate scalp fat and to control dandruff. Methods for regulating the fat in the scalp and for controlling dandruff were described above, wherein the composition is applied to the scalp.

EXAMPLES The following examples further describe and demonstrate the embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are provided solely for the purpose of illustration and are not a limitation to this invention, since many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

EXAMPLE 1 A skin gel is prepared by conventional methods from the following components.

The components of phase A are mixed with a suitable mixer until dissolved. Separately, the components of phase D are mixed with a suitable mixer, heated to 70 ° C by mixing until the components melt. The components from phase C to phase D are added and mixed until dispersed. It is started by cooling the charge, then adding phase D. Once phase D is dispersed, phase A is added to the charge and it is continued cooling and mixing. When the charge reaches 40 ° C, the component of phase E is added and agitated until completely dispersed. The composition is applied to the face of an individual with acne or oily / shiny skin at 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin once or twice a day for two weeks to six months to reduce facial fat and acne.

EXAMPLE 2 The following lotions were prepared with the mixtures of the ingredients in each composition in accordance with conventional mixing techniques already known to those skilled in the art of making skin care compositions.

Any of the above compositions is applied to the face in a dose of 0.2 ml up to four times a day to treat oily / shiny skin or existing acne.

EXAMPLE 3 A skin cream is prepared through conventional methods from the following components.

The components of phase A are mixed with a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stirring at a temperature of 70-80 ° C. Separately, the components of phase B are mixed with a suitable mixer and heated with the mixture to melt the components. Separately, the components of phase C are mixed and milled to obtain a mixture with acceptable softness (for example, using a Tekmar T50 mill). The mixture of phase C is added to the mixture of phase B and mixed. The resulting mixture is then added to the mixture of phase A by mixing, cooled with a cold water bath and milled, then stirring is continued. The combination of the bath is removed with continuous agitation, once the temperature reaches 40 ° C. Separately, the components of phase D are mixed by stirring until dissolved, then this is added to the combination of materials A-C. Separately, the components of phase E are mixed by mixing continuously and until they are soft, then this is added to the combination of materials A-D. The fragrance is added and mixed, and then NaOH. The pH is adjusted as necessary to 5.5. The composition is applied to the face of an individual with acne or oily / shiny skin at 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin once or twice a day for a period of 2 weeks to 6 months to reduce facial fat and acne.

EXAMPLE 4 An emulsion is prepared by conventional methods from the following components: The aqueous phase is formed in a suitable container charged with water according to the following: glycerin and then niacinamide are added to the water with stirring. The methylparaben dissolved in the benzyl alcohol is added to this mixture with stirring. The mixture is added to the mixture with stirring.

EDTA The silicone phase is formed in a separate suitable container by adding and mixing together with the silicone fluids. The aqueous phase is added to the silicone phase slowly with stirring to form the emulsion. The composition is applied to the face of a subject with acne or oily skin at 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin once or twice a day for a period of 2 weeks to 6 months to reduce facial fat and acne.

EXAMPLE 5 A skin cream is prepared through conventional methods from the following components.

* A C1- C30 monoester or polyester of sugars of one or more carboxylic acid moieties, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the portions of fatty acid are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C18 and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic from 1: 7 to 3: 5, more preferably the octaester of sucrose in which there are approximately 7 portions of fatty acid behenic and about 1 portion of oleic acid in the molecule, for example, sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids. The components of phase A are mixed with a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar model RW20DZM), heating while stirring at a temperature of about 70-80 ° C. Cetylhydroxycellulose and methylparaben are added by mixing at about 70-80 ° C to melt the components! Separately, the components of phase C are mixed and milled to obtain a mixture with acceptable softness (for example, using a Tekmar T50 mill). The mixture of phase C is added to the above mixture and mixed. The combination of the bath is removed with continuous agitation, once the temperature reaches approximately 45 ° C. Dimethicone is added and mixed. The components of phase E are mixed separately, mixing until a smooth and continuous consistency is obtained, then the previous mixture is added to it. It is added and mixed in benzyl alcohol, then NaOH. Adjust the pH as necessary to 7. The composition is applied to the face of a subject with acne or oily skin at 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin once or twice a day for 2 weeks to 6 months to reduce facial fat. and acne.

EXAMPLE 6 A skin cream is prepared through conventional methods from the following components.

* See Example 5 The components of phase A are mixed with a suitable mixer (e.g. Tekmar model RW20DZM). The components of phase B in phase A are mixed with a suitable mixer. The components of phase C are mixed separately until they are uniform. The mixture of phase C is added to the mixture of phase A / B, mixed until uniform and emulsified, and then milled to obtain a mixture with acceptable softness (for example, using a Tekmar T50 mill).

The composition is applied to the face of a subject with acne or oily skin at 2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin once or twice a day for a period of 2 weeks to 6 months to reduce facial fat and acne.

EXAMPLE 7 A bath oil having the composition A, B or C is prepared by combining the following components by using conventional formulation and mixing techniques, already known to those skilled in the art of skin care formulations.

The bath oil is applied to the skin as it is prepared or in diluted aqueous form. It is applied in a dose of 1-2 mg of oil / cm2 of skin for four weeks to observe a decrease in the fat and / or shine of the skin.

EXAMPLE 8 A hair conditioner is prepared by combining the following components by using conventional formulation and mixing techniques, already known to those skilled in the art of skin care formulations.

The conditioner is applied to the scalp, preferably to clean the hair, every day once a day to reduce the greasy appearance in the hair and the existence of dandruff. A dose of approximately 0.5 ml is applied and washed.

EXAMPLE 9 A liquid shampoo having the composition A, B or C is prepared by combining the following components by using conventional formulation and mixing techniques, already known to those skilled in the art of skin care formulations.

Shampoo is applied to the scalp every day once a day to reduce the appearance of fat in the hair and the existence of dandruff. A dose of approximately 0.5 ml is applied and washed.

EXAMPLE 10 A topical composition suitable for use as a liquid make-up base is prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation and mixing techniques, already known to those skilled in the art in skin care formulations.

The composition is applied to a person's face once a day in an amount of 1-2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin for four weeks to observe a decrease in fat and / or facial shine, a reduction in fat separation , prolonged use of the composition and a more uniform coverage as time passes.

EXAMPLE 11 A water-in-oil topical composition suitable for use as a liquid foundation for make-up is prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulation and mixing techniques as described below.

Ingredients A and B are combined in a suitable container. The ingredients are mixed using a Silverson L4RT mixer equipped with a 2.54 cm tubular assembly and a square hole sieve for 30 minutes at 9000 r.p.m. (the container can be covered to avoid the loss of any volatile material or other materials). The resulting mixture is heated to 85-90 ° C. Ingredients C are added, mixed for 5 minutes at 2100 r.p.m. using a Silverson L4RT mixer equipped with a 5.08 cm head and a disintegration screen. The container should be covered to minimize evaporation of cyclomethicone and other volatile or non-volatile material. The resulting mixture is cooled to 45-55 ° C. Components D of the ingredients are combined and mixed to form a uniform suspension. Separately, the ingredients E are combined and mixed to form a uniform suspension. The resulting suspensions are added to the mixture of A, B and C (which are at 45-55 ° C), mixed for 5 minutes at 2100 r.p.m. using a Silverson L4RT equipped with a 5.08 cm head and a disintegration screen. The resulting mixture is cooled to 30 ° C, then ingredient F is added. Mixed for 5 minutes at 2100 r.p.m. using a Silverson L4RT equipped with a 5.08 cm head and a disintegration screen. The ingredients G are combined in a suitable container and mixed until all the components are dissolved. The resulting solution is slowly added to the mixture of A-F. This combination is emulsified using a Silverson L4RT mixer equipped with a 5.08 cm head and disintegration screen at 2100-5100 r.p.m. (the r.p.m. will increase when the mixture thickens), continue mixing for 5 minutes until all the mixture G.

The composition is applied to a person's face once a day in an amount of 1-2 mg of composition / cm2 of skin for four weeks to observe a decrease in facial fat, a reduction in fat separation, more use prolonged base and a more homogeneous coverage as time passes. Although the particular embodiments of the present invention have been described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications can be made to this invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is intended to cover in the appended claims all modifications that are within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (21)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. - A method for inhibiting the activity of sebaceous glands in scalp and mammalian skin method comprising the step of administering, to the skin or scalp of a mammal susceptible to excessive sebaceous gland activity, a topical composition which includes: a ) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable carrier.

2. The method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the topical composition includes from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of the dehydroacetic acid composition.

3. The method according to claim 2, further characterized in that the topical composition includes from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the dehydroacetic acid composition.

4. The method according to claim 1, further characterized in that the topical composition comprises a material selected from the group consisting of tallow absorbent material, tallow dispersing material and mixtures thereof.

5. - A method for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin, which method comprises the step of administering to the skin or scalp of a mammal susceptible to oily and / or shiny skin a topical composition that includes: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

6. The method according to claim 5, further characterized in that the topical composition includes a tallow absorbent material.

7. The method according to claim 6, further characterized in that the topical composition includes a tallow dispersing material.

8. A topical composition for inhibiting the excessive activity of sebaceous glands and / or for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin in mammals, which composition includes: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically same, b) a tallow absorbent material, and c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

9. A topical composition according to claim 8, further characterized in that the talc absorbent material is selected from the group consisting of clays, talcs, silicas, starches, polymeric absorbers, and mixtures thereof.

10. - A topical composition according to claim 8, further characterized in that it comprises a tallow dispersion reduction material.

11. A topical composition according to claim 10, further characterized in that the sebum dispersion reduction material is selected from the group consisting of coamidopropylhydroxysultaine, N, N, N-trialkylaminoalkylene quaternaryamide, ammonium lauryl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine, a straight chain dimethylsilicon polymer having the formula: (CH3) 3Si4OS2 (CH3) 2t-n CH3, wherein n is a sufficient positive integer to provide a silicone polymer having a molecular weight of about 50,000 or more, and a viscosity of about 10,000 centistokes or more, and mixtures thereof.

12. A method for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin in mammals, which method includes the step of administering to the skin of a mammal susceptible to oily and / or shiny skin a topical composition comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, b) an auxiliary sebum suppressive active, and c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

13. A topical composition for regulating the greasy and / or shiny appearance of the skin in mammals, which composition includes: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof, b) a sebum suppressant active auxiliary and c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

14. A topical composition according to claim 13, further characterized in that said auxiliary sebum suppressive active is selected from the group consisting of a vitamin compound B3, nicotinate of tocopherol, pyridoxine, panthenol, pantothenic acid, thioxolone, hesperetin and mixtures thereof.

15. A composition according to claim 14, further characterized in that the auxiliary sebum suppressive active is niacinamide.

16. A method for treating acne in the skin of a mammal, a method comprising the step of administering, to a mammal susceptible to or having acne, a topical composition that includes: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or salts pharmaceutically acceptable thereof, and b) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

17. A method according to claim 16, further characterized in that the topical composition comprises an auxiliary anti-acne active.

18. A topical composition for treating acne on the skin or scalp of a mammal comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof, b) an auxiliary antiacne active and c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle .

19. - A topical composition according to claim 18, further characterized in that the auxiliary antiacne active is selected from the group consisting of antimicrobial agents, antiandrogens, comedolytic / keratolytic agents, anti-inflammatory agents and mixtures thereof.

20. A topical composition according to claim 18, further characterized in that the comedolytic / keratolytic agents are selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, cetylbetaine, sulfur, resorcinol, retinoic acid, 13-cis acid -retinóico, retinol, retinilpalmitato, retinilacetato, retinilpropionato, retinal and mixtures of the same; said antimicrobial agent is selected from benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, tetracycline, clindamycin, azelaic acid, sulfur, resorcinol and mixtures thereof; said antiandrogen is selected from the group consisting of cyproteronacetate, finasteride, chlormadinon acetate, 17-a-propyI-mesterolone, 17-a-estradiol acetate, dienostroldiacetate, estradiolbenzoate, inocoteronacetate, spirono-lactone, 11-a-hydroxyprogesterone and mixtures thereof; and said anti-inflammatory agent is selected from the group consisting of etofenamate, ibuprofen, aspirin, naproxen, flufenamic acid, mefenamic acid, meclofenamic acid, piroxicam felbinac, candelilla wax, alphabisabolol, aloe vera, Manjistha, Guggalm, green tea extract and mixtures thereof.

21. A method for regulating the condition of the skin on the skin of a mammal, which method includes the step of administering to a mammal having wrinkles, fine lines- or dilated pores in the skin, a topical composition comprising: a) a safe and effective amount of dehydroacetic acid or pharmaceutically salts thereof, b) a compound selected from the group consisting of organic acids, keto acids, retinoids and mixtures thereof, and c) a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.