KR920003945B1 - The pleat-finishing method of long filament fabrics - Google Patents
The pleat-finishing method of long filament fabrics Download PDFInfo
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- KR920003945B1 KR920003945B1 KR1019900007996A KR900007996A KR920003945B1 KR 920003945 B1 KR920003945 B1 KR 920003945B1 KR 1019900007996 A KR1019900007996 A KR 1019900007996A KR 900007996 A KR900007996 A KR 900007996A KR 920003945 B1 KR920003945 B1 KR 920003945B1
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- temperature
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/28—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics propelled by, or with the aid of, jets of the treating material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
- D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
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- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
Description
제 1 도는 본 발명의 실시예로써 폴리에스터 직물에 본 발명을 적용시켜 주름을 부여한 상태도.1 is a state in which the present invention is applied to the polyester fabric as an embodiment of the present invention to give a wrinkle.
제 2 도는 제 1 도와 같은 조건의 폴리에스터 직물의 염색공정중 재주름 고정처리를 하지 않은 상태의 주름상태도Figure 2 is a state of wrinkles without the re-wrinkle treatment during the dyeing process of the polyester fabric under the same conditions as the first degree
제 3 도는 본 발명을 실시하기 위한 장치도3 is an apparatus diagram for practicing the present invention.
본 발명은 장섬유직물의 표면에 주름을 형성시키는 가공방법에 관한 것으로, 특히 액류염색기를 이용한 전처리 공정중에 급승온, 직물의 정지, 급냉각등의 방법을 통하여 직물표면에 주름을 형성시킨 후, 이를 염색공정중에서 다시한번 처리액을 급속히 배출하므로써 주름이 오랫동안 고정되어 원상태를 유지할 수 있게 하는 주름가공방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a processing method for forming a wrinkle on the surface of a long fiber fabric, in particular, after forming the wrinkles on the surface of the fabric through a method such as rapid temperature rise, stop of the fabric, rapid cooling during the pretreatment process using a liquid dyeing machine, The present invention relates to a wrinkle processing method that enables the wrinkles to be fixed for a long time by rapidly discharging the treatment liquid again during the dyeing process.
종래의 장섬유직물의 주름형성방법으로는 일본특허공보 평 1-23583에서 100℃이상의 고온까지 처리액을 급승온시키는 공정을 통하고 100℃ 이상의 고온에서 장섬유직물을 여러번 일시 정지시킴으로써 형성된 주름을 고정시키는 방법이 제시되었으나 이와 같은 방법은 주름의 고정성이 부족하여 후공정 단계에서 주름이 소실되어 완제품의 경우 경사방향으로만 많은 주름이 형성되고 경위사 방향으로 사선을 이루는 다양한 주름은 얻을 수 없다는 결점이 있었다.Conventional wrinkle forming method of the long fiber fabrics in the Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 1-23583 through a step of rapidly raising the treatment liquid to a high temperature of 100 ℃ or more and the wrinkles formed by suspending the long fiber fabric several times at a high temperature of 100 ℃ or more Although the method of fixing has been suggested, such a method lacks the fixability of the wrinkles, so that the wrinkles are lost in the post-processing step, and thus, in the case of the finished product, many wrinkles are formed only in the inclined direction and various wrinkles which are oblique in the inclined direction cannot be obtained. There was a flaw.
따라서, 본 발명에서는 이러한 종래의 문제점을 해결하기 위한 수단으로 액류염색기내의 염색전처리 공정 중 120℃~130℃정도의 온도까지 처리액을 급승온시키고 이 온도에서 이송하는 장섬유 직물을 4~7회 정지시킨후, 90℃~100℃정도의 온도까지 처리액을 자연냉각시킨 다음, 90℃~100℃정도의 온도에서 처리액을 급속배출시키는 공정을 도입하였으며 상기 제품의 염색공정중에 90℃~100℃정도의 온도에서 다시한번 급속배출시키는 과정을 거치게 하므로써 종래의 문제점을 해결할 수 있게 한 것이다.Therefore, in the present invention, as a means for solving such a conventional problem, the long-fiber fabric to rapidly raise the temperature of the processing liquid to a temperature of about 120 ℃ ~ 130 ℃ during the dyeing pretreatment process in the liquid dyeing machine 4 ~ 7 After stopping the process, the process liquid was naturally cooled to the temperature of about 90 ℃ ~ 100 ℃, and then the process of rapidly discharging the treatment liquid at the temperature of 90 ℃ ~ 100 ℃ was introduced. By going through the rapid discharge process again at a temperature of about 100 ℃ to solve the conventional problems.
이하 본 발명을 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
본 발명에서는 제품의 주름을 형성시키기 위하여 액류염색기를 사용한 염색전처리 공정의 제1단계로 처리액을 120℃~130℃정도의 고온까지 급승온시킴으로써 직물을 불안정한 상태로 만든 후, 제2단계로 120℃~130℃에서 직물이 받는 장력을 최소로 하면 이송하는 직물자체의 중량과 직물을 이송시키는 처리액 및 다른 물리적인 힘에 의해 독특한 주름이 발생하게 되는데 이때 직물을 4~7회 반복하여 약 2분간씩 일시 정지시킴으로써 균일한 주름을 얻을 수 있었다.In the present invention, the fabric is made unstable by rapidly warming the treatment liquid to a high temperature of about 120 ℃ to 130 ℃ in the first step of the pre-dyeing process using a liquid dyeing machine to form a wrinkle of the product, 120 in a second step When the tension of the fabric is minimized at ℃ ~ 130 ℃, unique wrinkles are generated by the weight of the fabric itself, the processing liquid to transfer the fabric, and other physical forces, and the fabric is repeated 4 to 7 times. Uniform pauses were obtained by pausing for a minute.
이 경우 처리액의 온도가 120℃ 이하일 경우에는 후공정시 주름이 소실되었고, 130℃ 이상에서는 주름의 형성이 커져 제품이 불량하게 되는 단점이 있어 부적합하였다.In this case, when the temperature of the treatment liquid is 120 ° C. or less, the wrinkles are lost during the post-process, and at 130 ° C. or more, the wrinkles become large, resulting in a poor product.
제 3 단계로 90℃~100℃ 정도의 온도까지 처리액을 자연냉각시키는 공정을 도입하여 주름을 균일하게 형태안정화를 시킨 후, 이 온도에서 급속히 처리액을 배출시킴으로써 형성된 주름을 고정시킨 후, 마지막단계로 이 제품의 후공정시의 구름소실을 방지하기 위하여 염색공정중에서 다시 한번 90℃~100℃정도의 온도에서 처리액의 급소배출공정을 통해 한번 더 주름을 고정화시켜 균일한 형태의 주름(제 1 도 참조)이 오래도록 표면에 남도록 함으로써 종래의 문제점을 해결할 수 있었다.In the third step, a process of naturally cooling the processing liquid to a temperature of about 90 ° C. to 100 ° C. is introduced to uniformly stabilize the wrinkles, and then fix the wrinkles formed by quickly discharging the processing liquid at this temperature. In order to prevent cloud loss during the post-processing of this product, the wrinkles are fixed in the dyeing process once again through the rapid ejection process of the treatment liquid at a temperature of about 90 ° C to 100 ° C. The problem can be solved by leaving the surface on the surface for a long time.
그런데 처리액배출 공정시에 있어서 처리액의 온도가 90℃ 미만일 경우에는 형성된 주름의 고정화 미비로 주름이 소실되었으며 100℃를 초과할 경우에는 작업성이 나빠진다는 결점이 있어 부적합하였다.However, in the treatment liquid discharge process, when the temperature of the treatment liquid is less than 90 ° C, the wrinkles are lost due to the immobilization of the formed wrinkles, and when it exceeds 100 ° C, the workability is deteriorated.
이하 실시예 및 비교예를 통하여 본 발명을 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described through Examples and Comparative Examples.
[실시예]EXAMPLE
본 발명에 사용된 직물은 위사로는 75De/36F, 꼬임수가 2,000T/m인 통상의 폴리에스터사, 경사로는 75De/36F, 꼬임수가 350T/m인 통상의 폴리에스터사를 평직으로 가공한 직물을 사용하였고, 장치로는 제 3 도와 같은 액류염색기를 사용하였는데 직물을 노즐의 분출에 의해 이송관을 통해 처리조로 이송하여 침적시키며 릴부에서 다시 노즐분출구로 보내어져 순환이송되는데 이때, 수산화나트륨을 5g/ℓ첨가, 가수분해시켜 불순물을 제거하였다.The fabric used in the present invention is a weaving fabric of 75De / 36F as a weft yarn, a conventional polyester yarn with a twist number of 2,000T / m, a plain polyester yarn with a slope of 75De / 36F, a twist number of 350T / m. The apparatus used was a liquid dyeing machine as shown in FIG. 3, and the fabric was transferred to the treatment tank through the transfer pipe by the nozzle ejection and deposited. The fabric was sent back from the reel part to the nozzle outlet, whereby 5 g of sodium hydroxide was transferred. / l addition and hydrolysis to remove impurities.
일반적으로 직물의 처리공정은 승온, 온도유지, 냉각공정의 조합으로 이루어져 있으나 본 실시예에서는 130℃까지 급승온시킨 후, 120℃~130℃ 구간에서 6회 각 2분씩 일시정지시킴으로써 직물전체에 균일한 주름을 얻을 수 있었다.In general, the treatment process of the fabric is composed of a combination of the temperature rising, temperature holding, cooling process, but in this embodiment, the temperature is rapidly raised to 130 ℃, and then uniformly throughout the fabric by pausing for 6 minutes each at 120 ℃ ~ 130 ℃ section One wrinkle could be obtained.
다음으로 처리액을 100℃까지 자연냉각시켜 주름의 형태를 안정화시킨 후 이 온도에서 처리액을 급속배출시킴으로써 주름의 형태를 고정시키고, 염색공정에서 다시한번 100℃의 온도에서 급속배출시킴으로써 재차 구름을 고정시킨 후 후공정으로 120℃에서 열풍으로 건조하고 150℃에서 열고정시킴으로써 제 1 도와 같이 균일하고 좋은 효과를 나타내는 주름을 얻을 수 있었다.Next, the treatment liquid is naturally cooled to 100 ° C. to stabilize the shape of the wrinkles, and then the treatment liquid is rapidly discharged at this temperature to fix the shape of the wrinkles. After fixing, drying was carried out by hot air at 120 ° C. and heat-set at 150 ° C. in the post-process to obtain wrinkles having a uniform and good effect as in the first degree.
[비교예][Comparative Example]
직물, 장치 및 염색전처리공정은 실시예와 같이 실시하면서 염색공정중에서의 재주름 고정처리를 하지 않은 폴리에스터직물을 염색후 후공정으로 120℃에서 건조시킨후, 150℃에서 열고정시켰을 때 실시예에 비해 제 2 도에서와 같이 위사방향의 주름이 약 50%가량 소실됨을 볼 수 있었다.The fabric, apparatus and pre-dyeing process are carried out as in the example, and the polyester fabric which is not subjected to the re-wrinkle treatment during the dyeing process is dyed and dried at 120 ° C. in the post-process and then heat-set at 150 ° C. Compared with FIG. 2, the wrinkles in the weft direction were lost by about 50%.
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KR1019900007996A KR920003945B1 (en) | 1990-05-31 | 1990-05-31 | The pleat-finishing method of long filament fabrics |
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KR1019900007996A KR920003945B1 (en) | 1990-05-31 | 1990-05-31 | The pleat-finishing method of long filament fabrics |
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KR910020247A KR910020247A (en) | 1991-12-19 |
KR920003945B1 true KR920003945B1 (en) | 1992-05-18 |
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