KR20010044211A - W/O/W multiple emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystal systems enforced by mixed surfactants in W/O emulsion - Google Patents
W/O/W multiple emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystal systems enforced by mixed surfactants in W/O emulsion Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
Description
본 발명은 혼합계면활성제에 의해 라멜라형 액정시스템이 강화된 수-유(W/O)에멀젼을 포함한 수-유-수(W/O/W) 다중 에멀젼형 화장료 조성물에 관한 것으로, 더욱 상세하게는 실리콘계 계면활성제인 알킬 디메치콘코폴리올과 변형된 폴리에스테르 비이온 계면활성제로 이루워진 혼합계면활성제, 실리콘계오일 또는 비극성오일 또는 극성오일과의 혼합물, 우레아, 그리고 활성성분을 포함한 라멜라형 액정시스템의 수-유에멀젼을 HLB 10~20사이의 비이온계면활성제가 녹아있는 수상에 넣어 수-유-수형 다중에멀젼을 제조한 화장료 조성물에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a water-oil-water (W / O / W) multi-emulsion cosmetic composition comprising a water-oil (W / O) emulsion in which a lamellar liquid crystal system is enhanced by a mixed surfactant. Is a mixed surfactant consisting of alkyl dimethicone cocopolyol, a silicone-based surfactant, and a modified polyester nonionic surfactant, a mixture of silicone-based or non-polar or polar oil, urea, and a lamellar liquid crystal system containing the active ingredient. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in which a water-oil emulsion is put in an aqueous phase in which a nonionic surfactant between HLB 10 and 20 is dissolved to prepare a water-milk-type multiemulsion.
다중에멀젼은 크게 수-유-수(W/O/W) 형태와 유-수-유(O/W/O)형태로 나눌 수 있다. 일반적으로 산뜻함을 선호하는 화장품에서는 수-유-수 형태의 에멀젼이 그 이용가치가 크다고 할 수 있다. 이 수-유-수 다중에멀젼은 물이 오일 내부에 있는 내수상과 이 물을 함유한 오일이 분산되어 있는 외수상의 2부분의 물이 존재한다. 수용성 활성물질은 주로 내수상에 용해되어 물리화학적인 자극에 의해 피부에 전달하는 시스템으로 매우 유용한 방법으로 인식되고 있다. 제조방법은 주로 2단계로 제조되는데 1단계에서는 소수성계면활성제가 포함된 오일에 활성물질이 포함된 물을 유화하여 수-유 에멀젼을 제조하고 2단계에서 이를 친수성계면활성제가 녹아있는 수상에서 재 유화하는 방법이다. 일반적인 수-유-수 다중에멀젼에서는 내수상에 녹아있는 활성물질이 농도구배에 따라 외수상으로 확산되어 시간이 지남에 따라 방출됨으로 안정도에 부정적인 영향을 미친다. 따라서 이를 해결하기 위하여 수-유에멀젼을 제조할 때 유화입자의 유동성(mobility)를 떨어뜨려 합일의 가능성을 줄이고 계면막을 견고히 하거나 넓게 하기 위해 액정시스템을 채용하기도 하였다. 이러한 액정시스템으로는 알킬디메치콘코폴리올/실리콘 오일/밀납으로 이루워진 시스템이 있다.(등록번호 10-238375-0000)Multi-emulsions can be broadly divided into water-oil-water (W / O / W) and oil-water-oil (O / W / O) forms. In general, cosmetics that prefer freshness can be said to be of great value in emulsions in the form of water-milk-water. This water-oil-water multiemulsion contains two parts of water, the inner water phase where the water is inside the oil and the outer water where the oil containing the water is dispersed. The water-soluble active substance is recognized as a very useful method as a system mainly dissolved in the water phase and delivered to the skin by physicochemical stimulation. The manufacturing method is mainly prepared in two stages. In the first stage, water-oil emulsion is prepared by emulsifying water containing the active substance in the oil containing hydrophobic surfactant, and in the second stage, it is re-emulsified in the aqueous phase in which the hydrophilic surfactant is dissolved. That's how. In general water-oil-water multi-emulsion, the active substance dissolved in the inner water is diffused to the outer water according to the concentration gradient and released over time, which negatively affects the stability. Therefore, in order to solve this problem, a liquid crystal system was employed to reduce the possibility of coalescence by reducing the mobility of emulsion particles and to strengthen or widen the interfacial film when preparing the emulsion. Such a liquid crystal system is a system consisting of alkyl dimethicone copolyol / silicone oil / beeswax (Reg. No. 10-238375-0000).
그러나 이러한 라멜라형 액정시스템의 수-유에멀젼을 화장품에서 일반적으로 사용하는 폴리 솔베이트 계통의 계면활성제가 녹아있는 수상에 첨가하여 수-유-수 다중에멀젼을 제조하면 수-유 에멀젼제조시 실리콘 계면활성제로만 이루워져 있어 안정도에 문제가 발생한다.However, when the water-milk emulsion of a lamellar liquid crystal system is added to the aqueous phase in which a polysorbate-based surfactant commonly used in cosmetics is dissolved, a water-milk emulsion can be prepared. It consists only of activator, causing problems in stability.
이러한 상황에서 본 발명자들은 상기의 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 연구를 거듭한 결과 알킬디메치콘코폴리올과 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제로 이루워진 혼합계면활성제를 중심으로 보다 안정한 액정을 형성시키고 이를 친수성계면활성제가 들어있는 수상에 첨가하여 수-유-수 다중에멀젼을 제조하였으며 불안정한 활성물질을 더욱 안정화시키고 보습력, 사용감이 향상됨을 발견하고 본 발명을 완성하게 되었다.In this situation, the present inventors have conducted research to solve the above problems, and as a result, a more stable liquid crystal is formed based on a mixed surfactant composed of an alkyldimethicone cocopolyol and a modified polyester nonionic surfactant. Water-oil-water multi-emulsion was prepared in addition to the aqueous phase containing the present invention was found to further stabilize the unstable active material and improve the moisturizing, usability and completed the present invention.
따라서 본 발명의 목적은 내수상의 활성물질을 안정화할 수 있는 보다 안정화된 수-유형 액정을 함유한 수-유-수 다중에멀젼 조성물을 제공하는 것이다.It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a water-oil-water multiemulsion composition containing a more stabilized water-type liquid crystal capable of stabilizing an active substance in water.
상기한 목적을 이루기 위해서, 본 발명의 1단계로 제조되는 라멜라형 액정시스템의 수-유 유화화장료조성물은 알킬디메치콘 코폴리올 0.5~5.0중량%, 변형폴리에스테르비이온 계면활성제 1.0~5.0 중량%, 실리콘계 오일 또는 극성 또는 비극성오일과의 혼합물 1~20 중량%, 왁스 0.5~5.0중량%, 그리고 수상에 물을 salting-in하는 우레아 1~10중량%를 함유한다. 2단계로 제조되는 수-유-수 다중에멀젼의 조성물은 1단계에서 제조된 액정조성물을 1.0~50중량 %함유하고 0.1~10중량%의 폴리솔베이트를 함유하는 것을 특징으로 한다. 또한 본 발명의 다중에멀젼에서는 활성물질을 1~10중량%를 함유한 것을 특징으로 한다.In order to achieve the above object, the water-oil emulsion cosmetic composition of the lamellar liquid crystal system prepared in one step of the present invention is 0.5 to 5.0% by weight of alkyl dimethicone copolyol, 1.0 to 5.0% by weight of modified polyester nonionic surfactant 1 to 20% by weight of silicone oil or mixtures with polar or nonpolar oils, 0.5 to 5.0% by weight wax, and 1 to 10% by weight of urea salting-in water in the water phase. The composition of the water-oil-water multi-emulsion prepared in two steps is characterized by containing 1.0 to 50% by weight of the liquid crystal composition prepared in step 1 and containing 0.1 to 10% by weight of polysorbate. In addition, the multi-emulsion of the present invention is characterized in that it contains 1 to 10% by weight of the active material.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
먼저, 액정이라 함은 유기 화합물이 온도가 상승하면 결정구조가 파괴되기 시작하여 어느 온도 이상에서는 완전히 결정구조가 파괴된 등방성(Isotropic)으로 전환되는데, 이와같이 완전 결정구조에서 완전 비결정 구조로 전이되는 과정에 있는 상을 메조상(Meso phase)이라 하고, 이러한 메조상 상태에 있는 유기 화합물을 액정(液晶; Liquid crystal)이라 한다.First, the liquid crystal is a liquid crystal structure is destroyed when the temperature rises, the organic compound is converted to isotropic (crystal structure is completely destroyed above a certain temperature), the process of transition from the complete crystal structure to a completely amorphous structure The phase at is called the meso phase, and the organic compound in this meso phase is called liquid crystal.
액정은, 유화입자에 녹아 있는 지방족 알코올이 유화 후 냉각 중 용해도가 감소되는 단계; 용해도 감소에 따라 지방족 알코올이 과포화상태가 되어 유화입자 밖으로 배출되는 단계; 및 유화 입자가 물, 계면활성제와 만나 입자 주위에서 액정을 형성하는 단계(T.Suzuki, et al, IFSCC(8th), 928 P18/21)로 형성되어, 유화의 물성을 변화시키고, 오일을 둘러싼 다중층이 크리밍과의 합일(coalescence)에 대한 유동장벽(rheological barrier)으로 작용하여 두 오일 방울 사이의 반데르발스 인력을 감소시켜 유화의 안정성을 향상시킬 수 있다. 또한, 액정은 수분보유력이 우수하여 피부에 적용할 경우 증발속도가 낮아져 지속력이 강화되고, 뛰어난 보습력을 나타낼 수 있다. 따라서, 화장료 조성물에 이들 액정을 첨가하여 상기한 효과를 얻고자 하는 시도가 있었다.Liquid crystal is a step of reducing the solubility of the aliphatic alcohol dissolved in the emulsion particles during cooling after emulsification; Aliphatic alcohol is supersaturated according to the decrease in solubility and is discharged out of the emulsified particles; And the step of emulsifying particles to meet the water and surfactant to form a liquid crystal around the particles (T. Suzuki, et al, IFSCC (8th), 928 P18 / 21) to change the physical properties of the emulsification, The multiple layers act as a rheological barrier to coalescence with the creaming, thereby reducing the van der Waals attraction between the two oil droplets, thereby improving the stability of the emulsion. In addition, the liquid crystal is excellent in the moisture retention power when applied to the skin evaporation rate is lowered, the sustainability is enhanced, it can exhibit excellent moisturizing power. Therefore, there has been an attempt to obtain these effects by adding these liquid crystals to the cosmetic composition.
종래 화장료에 소량 배합되어 사용되어 오고 있는 액정은 콜레스테롤 유도체를 사용하여 형성한 액정으로서, 온도에 따라 변화되는 써모트로픽 액정(Thermotropic Liquid Crystal)과 조성의 변화에 따라 변화되는 라이오 트로픽 액정(Lyotropic Liquid crystal)이 있으며 이 액정의 대표적인 액정이 라멜라형 액정이다.Liquid crystals that have been conventionally used in small amounts in cosmetics are liquid crystals formed using cholesterol derivatives, thermotropic liquid crystals that change with temperature, and lyotropic liquid crystals that change with composition changes. ) And a typical liquid crystal of this liquid crystal is a lamellar liquid crystal.
써모트로픽액정은 주로 유-수(O/W)유화조성물에서 발생하는 것으로 본 발명이 목적하는 수-유-수 다중에멀젼과는 거리가 멀고, 조성의 변화에 따라 형성되는 라멜라형 액정시스템의 경우 다중에멀젼을 제조하기 위해 외수상에 넣으면 친수성 계면활성제와의 상용성등이 문제가 되어 열역학적으로 불안정하고 동적인 유화의 성질로 인하여 실리콘 계면활성제로만 이루워진 액정시스템이 파괴되어 내수상과 외수상의 합일이 발생하고 이에 따라 활성물질이 외수상으로 확산되어 변색등 안정도가 불안해진다.Thermotropic liquid crystal mainly occurs in oil-water (O / W) emulsion composition is far from the water-oil-water multi-emulsion of the present invention, and in the case of a lamellar liquid crystal system formed by the change of composition When it is put in an external water to prepare a multi-emulsion, compatibility with hydrophilic surfactants becomes a problem, and due to thermodynamic instability and dynamic emulsification properties, the liquid crystal system composed only of silicone surfactants is destroyed, resulting in water and external water phases. Unity occurs, and the active substance diffuses to the outer water phase, resulting in unstable stability such as discoloration.
따라서 본 발명자들은 기존에 알려진 알킬디메치콘코폴리올, 실리콘오일 또는 극성또는 비극성오일, 밀납에 변형 폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제를 첨가함으로써 유동장벽을 높이고 오일의 종류와 상관없는 액정이 강화된 시스템을 형성하였다.이때 적정량의 우레아를 첨가함으로써 액정의 형성시 관여하는 결합수(bound water)이외의 물을 salting-in시켜 내수상의 물을 상대적으로 소수화하여 외수상으로 확산을 감소시켰다. 이렇게 제조된 라멜라형 액정을 친수성계면활성제가 포함되어 있는 수상에 첨가함으로써 안정도, 사용감이 개선된 조성물을 제공할 수 있었다.Therefore, the present inventors add a modified polyester nonionic surfactant to a known alkyldimethiconecopolyol, silicone oil or polar or nonpolar oil, and beeswax to increase the flow barrier and form a liquid crystal enhanced system irrespective of the type of oil. At this time, the addition of an appropriate amount of urea salted-in water other than the bound water involved in the formation of the liquid crystal to relatively hydrophobize the water in the aqueous phase to reduce diffusion to the external water phase. The lamellar liquid crystal thus prepared was added to an aqueous phase containing a hydrophilic surfactant to provide a composition having improved stability and usability.
이하 본 발명의 조성물의 각 성분을 보다 상세히 설명하면 다음과 같다.Hereinafter, the components of the composition of the present invention will be described in more detail.
실리콘계면활성제로 이루워진 라멜라형 액정시스템의 수-유 유화계에서는 오일의 종류가 중요하나 본 발명에서는 선택에 있어서 좀 더 자유롭다. 즉, 실리콘계면활성제를 사용할 경우에, 극성오일을 사용하는 경우에는 수-유 유화에서 형성된 이중층 속에서 쉽게 용해되어 액정의 형성을 어렵게 하고, 용해도가 적은 광물 오일이나 바셀린 같은 비극성 오일을 이용하는 경우에는 액정을 형성할 수는 있으나, 액정이 쉽게 파괴된다. 따라서, 극성 및 비극성 오일만을 사용할 경우에는 액정형성이 어려우나, 실리콘 오일과 혼용하여 사용하는 경우 실리콘 오일이 유화제와의 상용성에 제한을 받아서 잘 용해되지 않으므로 액정을 형성할 수 있다.In the water-oil emulsifying system of a lamellar liquid crystal system made of a silicone surfactant, the type of oil is important, but in the present invention, it is more free to choose. That is, in the case of using the silicone surfactant, in the case of using the polar oil, it is easily dissolved in the double layer formed in the water-oil emulsification, making it difficult to form the liquid crystal, and in the case of using the non-soluble mineral oil or nonpolar oil such as petroleum jelly. Although liquid crystals can be formed, the liquid crystals are easily destroyed. Therefore, when only polar and non-polar oils are used, it is difficult to form liquid crystals. However, when used in combination with silicone oils, the liquid crystals may be formed because silicone oils are not easily dissolved due to limitations in compatibility with emulsifiers.
따라서 분산매는 실리콘 오일을 단독으로 사용하거나, 극성오일 또는 비극성오일과 혼용하여 사용할 수 있었다.(등록번호 10-238375-0000)Therefore, the dispersion medium could be used alone or in combination with a polar oil or a non-polar oil. (Registration No. 10-238375-0000)
그러나 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제가 도입되면 비극성오일과 상용성을 가지므로 액정형성이 용이하게 되었다. 따라서 분산매는 실리콘오일 단독, 비극성 오일 단독 또는 이들의 혼합물과 극성오일을 혼용하여 사용할 수 있는데 이들의 배합량은 수-유 유화조성물 중량의 1~30중량%를 차지한다.However, when the modified polyester nonionic surfactant is introduced, it has compatibility with nonpolar oils, thereby facilitating liquid crystal formation. Therefore, the dispersion medium may be used in combination with silicone oil alone, non-polar oil alone or a mixture thereof and polar oil, the compounding amount of which is 1 to 30% by weight of the water-oil emulsion composition.
본 발명에서 사용한 실리콘 오일과 비극성오일은 특정히 한정하지는 않지만 사이클로 메치콘과 하이드로 카본류인 리퀴드파라핀, 스쿠알렌을 사용하는 것이 가장 바람직하다.The silicone oil and the nonpolar oil used in the present invention are not particularly limited, but it is most preferable to use cyclomethicone and liquid carbons such as liquid paraffin and squalene.
또한 본 발명은 혼합계면활성제를 사용하였는데 이는 실리콘 계면활성제만으로 이루워진 라멜라 액정시스템으로 다중에멀젼을 형성할 때 액정시스템이 파괴되는 등의 안정화에 문제가 있다. 따라서 액정시스템을 강화시키고 친수성계면활성제와 상용성을 갖는 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제를 사용한다.In addition, the present invention uses a mixed surfactant, which is a problem in stabilization such as the destruction of the liquid crystal system when forming a multi-emulsion with a lamellar liquid crystal system consisting of only a silicone surfactant. Therefore, modified polyester nonionic surfactants are used which strengthen the liquid crystal system and are compatible with hydrophilic surfactants.
알킬디메치콘코폴리올과 마찬가지로 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제도 하나의 주사슬에 친수성기와 친유성기를 함유하고 있고, 친수성기가 수상에 친유성기가 유상에 걸쳐있는 구조를 갖고 있으므로, 분산상(물)에서 계면활성 성질을 지닌 물질이 앤커링(anchoring)되어 분산상을 고정시키고, 액정이중층이 쉽게 파괴될 수 있음에도 불구하고 액정이중층에 오일 방울이 앤커링되어 액정을 안정하게 한다. 이때 실리콘오일은 실리콘계 계면활성제에, 비극성오일은 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제에 앤커링되어 액정을 더욱 안정하게 한다. 또한 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제의 PEG기능기는 내수상의 물과 수소결합등의 상호작용을 하여 외수상으로 확산되는 것을 방지한다.Like alkyldimethicone cocopolyols, modified polyester nonionic surfactants contain a hydrophilic group and a lipophilic group in one main chain, and the hydrophilic group has a structure in which an lipophilic group is in an oil phase in the water phase, Although the material having the surface-active property is anchoring (anchoring) to fix the dispersed phase, even though the liquid crystal double layer can be easily destroyed, oil droplets are anchored to the liquid crystal double layer to stabilize the liquid crystal. At this time, the silicon oil is anchored to the silicone-based surfactant, the nonpolar oil is modified to the modified polyester nonionic surfactant to make the liquid crystal more stable. In addition, the PEG functional group of the modified polyester nonionic surfactant prevents the diffusion into the outer water phase by interacting with the water in the water phase and hydrogen bonding.
본 발명에 사용된 알킬디메치콘코폴리올의 종류는 특별히 한정되지 않지만, 예를 들면, 세틸디메치콘코폴리올(Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol), 라우릴메치콘코폴리올(Laurymethicone Copolyol)등이 바람직하며, 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제는 알콕시레이티드 카르복시산 에스테르(alkoxylated carboxylic acids esters)등이 바람직하다. 또한, 알킬디메치콘코폴리올의 함량은 조성물 총 중량에 대하여 0.5∼5.0중량%가 바람직하며 변형폴리에스테르비이온계면활성제는 1.0~5.0중량%가 바람직하다.Although the type of alkyl dimethicone copolyol used in the present invention is not particularly limited, for example, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, laurylmethicone copolyol and the like are preferable, and modified polyesters are preferred. The nonionic surfactant is preferably alkoxylated carboxylic acids esters and the like. In addition, the content of the alkyldimethicone cocopolyol is preferably 0.5 to 5.0% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and 1.0 to 5.0% by weight of the modified polyester nonionic surfactant.
본 발명에서는 내수상에서 액정형성에 관여한 결합수이외의 물을 우레아를 이용하여 salting-in 하였다. 내수상의 물은 우레아에 의해 소수화되고 라멜라액정에 브로킹(blocking)되어 유동도가 떨어져 외수상과 합일될 기회가 줄어들게 된다.In the present invention, water other than the combined water involved in the liquid crystal formation in the aqueous phase was salted-in using urea. Water in the inner water is hydrophobized by urea and blocked in the lamellar liquid crystals, reducing the flow rate and reducing the chance of coalescence with the outer water.
나아가 본 발명의 조성물은 상기성분들 이외에도 액정의 유지를 위해 외수상에 폴리아크릴아마이드, 하이드록시알킬셀룰로오스 등의 분산제를 사용할 수 있다.Furthermore, the composition of the present invention may use a dispersing agent such as polyacrylamide, hydroxyalkyl cellulose in the external water to maintain the liquid crystal in addition to the above components.
또한, 본 발명의 유화화장료 조성물은 왁스가 냉각 후 배향되면서 유화화장료에서 유화제가 녹아 있는 유상과 보습성분이 함유된 수상의 계면에 액정을 형성시킬 수 있으므로, 종래에 사용된 왁스를 조성물 총 중량에 대하여 0.5∼5.0중량%의 양으로 사용한다. 특별히 규정하지는 않지만 밀납, 파라핀왁스가 대표적이다.In addition, the emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention can form a liquid crystal at the interface of the oil phase and the water phase containing the moisturizing component in which the emulsifier is dissolved in the emulsion cosmetic while the wax is oriented after cooling, the wax used in the prior art to the total weight of the composition It is used in the amount of 0.5 to 5.0% by weight. Although not specifically defined, beeswax and paraffin wax are typical.
이 밖에 본 발명의 조성물은 통상의 유화화장료 조성물에 함유되는 성분들을 적의하게 선정하여 첨가할 수 있다.In addition, the composition of the present invention may be added by appropriately selecting the components contained in the conventional emulsion cosmetic composition.
그리고 내수상에 안정화되는 대상물질은 수용성 비타민류와 그 유도체, 코직산 및 그의 유도체등이 있으며 필요에 따라 유해산소를 억제하는 유용성 감초 P-T, 피부노화를 방지할 수 있는 수용성 세라미드등의 물질을 더 함유할 수 있다.The target substances to be stabilized in the water phase include water-soluble vitamins, derivatives thereof, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, and further contain substances such as oil-soluble licorice PT that suppresses harmful oxygen, and water-soluble ceramide that can prevent skin aging, if necessary. can do.
이하, 실시예 및 비교예를 들어 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하지만, 본 발명이 이들 예에만 한정되는 것은 아니다.Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are given and this invention is demonstrated in detail, this invention is not limited only to these examples.
[실시예 1∼3 및 비교예 1∼3] 크림EXAMPLES 1-3 AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1-3
[제조방법][Manufacturing method]
1) 5~7 원료를 70∼80℃로 가열하였다.1) 5-7 raw material was heated to 70-80 degreeC.
2) 8~10 원료를 가열하고 믹싱하여 1)에 투입하였다.2) 8-10 raw materials were heated, mixed and added to 1).
3) A 원료를 70∼80℃로 가열하여 완전히 용해시켰다.3) A raw material A was heated to 70-80 degreeC, and it melt | dissolved completely.
4) 70∼80℃로 가열하면서 3)을 2)에 서서히 넣으면서 유화시켰다.4) The emulsion was emulsified while gradually adding 3) to 2) while heating to 70 to 80 ° C.
5) 4)에서 제조된 수-유에멀젼을 30중량%(C) 취해 D에 서서히 넣으면서 유화시켰다.5) 30 wt% (C) of the water-emulsion prepared in 4) was taken and emulsified in D slowly.
6) 5)를 25∼35℃로 냉각시켜, 크림을 제조하였다.6) 5) was cooled to 25-35 degreeC, and the cream was prepared.
[시험예][Test Example]
상기에서 제조한 실시예 1∼4 및 비교예 1∼3의 조성물에 대하여, 액정형성여부, 다중에멀젼의 형성여부, 다중에멀젼에서의 액정형성여부, 전반적인 사용감 및 보존 안정성을 평가하였다.The compositions of Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 prepared above were evaluated for the liquid crystal formation, the formation of the multiemulsion, the formation of the liquid crystal in the multiemulsion, the overall usability and the storage stability.
1) 액정 및 다중에멀젼 형성여부1) Formation of liquid crystal and multi-emulsion
액정은 유화시스템에서 수상의 물방울(water droplet)의 벽면에서 발생하므로 이를 편광현미경으로 관찰하였으며 다중에멀젼은 광학현미경을 이용하여 관찰하였다. 그 결과는 표 1과 같다.Since the liquid crystal is generated on the wall surface of the water droplet in the emulsification system, it was observed by a polarizing microscope, and the multi-emulsion was observed by using an optical microscope. The results are shown in Table 1.
상기 1)에서 알 수 있는 바와 같이, 본 발명의 필수성분인 세틸디메치콘코폴리올, 알콕시레이티드 카르복시산 에스테르, 우레아, 그리고 사이크로메치콘을 비롯한 비극성오일 또는 극성오일과의 혼합오일을 함유하는 경우에만 다중에멀젼에서 액정이 형성됨을 알 수 있다. 그러나 수-유 에멀젼의 경우 실리콘계 계면활성제만으로도 액정을 확인할 수 있었으나 다중에멀젼의 제조시 안정도에 문제가 있었다.As can be seen in 1), only containing non-polar or mixed oils, including cetyl dimethicone copolyol, alkoxylated carboxylic acid ester, urea, and cyclomethicone, which are essential ingredients of the present invention It can be seen that the liquid crystal is formed in the multiemulsion. However, in the case of the water-oil emulsion, the liquid crystal was confirmed only by the silicone-based surfactant, but there was a problem in the stability in the preparation of the multi-emulsion.
2) 사용감 시험2) Feeling test
20∼30세의 여성 20명을 대상으로 하여, 안면에 시료를 도포하게 한 후, 하기 표 2의 항목들에 대하여 다음 기준에 따라 평가하도록 하고 그 결과를 표 2에 나타내었다.Twenty women aged 20 to 30 years were asked to apply a sample to the face, and the items in Table 2 were evaluated according to the following criteria, and the results are shown in Table 2.
(평가기준)(Evaluation standard)
1: 매우 나쁨, 2: 나쁨, 3: 보통, 4: 좋음, 5: 매우 좋음1: very bad, 2: bad, 3: moderate, 4: good, 5: very good
표 2으로부터 다중에멀젼에서 액정이 관찰된 조성물의 전반적인 사용감이 우수함을 알 수 있다.It can be seen from Table 2 that the overall usability of the composition in which the liquid crystal was observed in the multiemulsion was excellent.
3) 안정성3) stability
안정성을 확인하기 위하여 온도별 변화에 따른 안정성을 조사하고, 그 결과를 표 3에 나타내었다.In order to confirm the stability, the stability of the temperature change was investigated, and the results are shown in Table 3.
표 3으로부터, 본원 발명에 따른 라멜라형 액정시스템의 수-유 에멀젼을 함유한 다중에멀젼시스템을 갖는 조성물이 유화안정성이 우수함을 알 수 있다. 여기에서 다중에멀젼의 형성과 여기서 액정이 형성되지 않은 실시예 4와 비교예 1∼3은 온도 및 시간이 지남에 따라 안정성이 저하됨을 알 수 있다.From Table 3, it can be seen that the composition having the multi-emulsion system containing the water-oil emulsion of the lamellar liquid crystal system according to the present invention has excellent emulsion stability. Here, it can be seen that in Example 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 in which the multi-emulsion was formed and in which the liquid crystal was not formed, the stability decreased with temperature and time.
이상에서 설명한 바와 같이, 알킬디메치콘코폴리올/변형 폴리에스테르 비이온계면활성제, 실리콘계오일 또는 비극성오일 또는 극성오일과의 혼합물, 우레아를 함유하여 안정성이 강화된 라멜라형 액정시스템을 함유한 수-유-수 다중에멀젼을 구성함으로써, 사용감, 안정성을 향상시킬 수 있다.As described above, a water-oil containing an alkyldimethiconecopolyol / modified polyester nonionic surfactant, a mixture of a silicone oil or a nonpolar oil or a polar oil, and a lamellae-type liquid crystal system containing urea to enhance stability -By constructing a multi-emulsion emulsion, the usability and stability can be improved.
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100654844B1 (en) * | 2004-11-10 | 2006-12-06 | 한국콜마 주식회사 | Cosmetic composition having a nano-size phospholipid emulsion of oil in water type using a hydrophobically modified polyfroctose polymeric emulsifier and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN107714492A (en) * | 2016-08-12 | 2018-02-23 | 伽蓝（集团）股份有限公司 | A kind of multiplet emulsion containing liquid crystal structure and preparation method thereof |
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| EP0612517A1 (en) * | 1993-02-23 | 1994-08-31 | L'oreal | Water in oil emulsion for cosmetic or pharmaceutic use |
| JPH10203919A (en) * | 1997-01-24 | 1998-08-04 | L'oreal Sa | Water-in-oil type emulsion, emulsion-containing composition and their use for cosmetic, medicine or sanitary article |
| WO1999047111A1 (en) * | 1998-03-17 | 1999-09-23 | L'oreal | Use of a silicone surfactant of alkyl-dimethicone copolyol type for preparing solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsions and resulting solid water-in-oil emulsions |
| JP2000229838A (en) * | 1999-02-08 | 2000-08-22 | L'oreal Sa | Fluid cosmetic and/or dermatological composition in water-in-oil type emulsion form |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| EP0612517A1 (en) * | 1993-02-23 | 1994-08-31 | L'oreal | Water in oil emulsion for cosmetic or pharmaceutic use |
| JPH06256135A (en) * | 1993-02-23 | 1994-09-13 | L'oreal Sa | Cosmetic or medicinal water-in-oil type emulsion |
| JPH10203919A (en) * | 1997-01-24 | 1998-08-04 | L'oreal Sa | Water-in-oil type emulsion, emulsion-containing composition and their use for cosmetic, medicine or sanitary article |
| WO1999047111A1 (en) * | 1998-03-17 | 1999-09-23 | L'oreal | Use of a silicone surfactant of alkyl-dimethicone copolyol type for preparing solid water-in-oil cosmetic emulsions and resulting solid water-in-oil emulsions |
| JP2000229838A (en) * | 1999-02-08 | 2000-08-22 | L'oreal Sa | Fluid cosmetic and/or dermatological composition in water-in-oil type emulsion form |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR100654844B1 (en) * | 2004-11-10 | 2006-12-06 | 한국콜마 주식회사 | Cosmetic composition having a nano-size phospholipid emulsion of oil in water type using a hydrophobically modified polyfroctose polymeric emulsifier and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN107714492A (en) * | 2016-08-12 | 2018-02-23 | 伽蓝（集团）股份有限公司 | A kind of multiplet emulsion containing liquid crystal structure and preparation method thereof |
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