JPH0813272A - Core-sheath structure yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce a core-sheath yarn for raised fabric having excellent mottled appearance and raising property by preparing an interlocked core-sheath yarn composed of polyester multifilament yarns having different dyeability and different boiling water shrinkage and subjecting the yarn to a turbulent fluid treatment to get the loop number falling within a specific range. CONSTITUTION:This core-sheath structure yarn for raised fabric having excellent mottled appearance, raising property, touch and fastness is an interlocked core- sheath yarn composed of >=3 polyester multifilament yarns consisting of two kinds of filaments having different dyeability. The sheath yarn is composed of a sea-island conjugate yarn A (composed of common polyester and an alkali- soluble polyester) and a filament yarn B (cation-dyeable polyester) having dyeability different from that of the island component of the conjugate yarn A and the core yarn is composed of the conjugate yarn A or a filament yarn other than the yarn A and having a boiling water shrinkage larger than that of the sheath yarn by >=3%. The number of loops (X) of the yarn A having a loop height of >=0.1mm after boiling water shrinkage at 98 deg.C for 20min and that of the loops (Y) of the yarn B satisfy the formula X:Y=1:5 to 5:1.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【０００１】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は杢調で起毛性、風合いの
優れた起毛布帛用の芯鞘構造糸及びその製造方法に関す
る。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a core / sheath structure yarn for a raised fabric which is heathered and excellent in raising property and texture, and a method for producing the same.

【０００２】[0002]

【従来の技術】従来から起毛布帛用の複合糸は数多く提
案されている。例えば、極細繊維を用いた布帛の起毛
性、風合い、表面感を改善する方法としては、極細繊維
と高収縮糸を混繊交絡させる方法（特公昭６１−４０７
７８号公報）、分割型の極細糸とそれよりも収縮の大き
いフィラメント糸を混繊させる方法（特公昭５９−４５
７７０号公報）、アルカリ溶解性の異なるマルチフィラ
メント糸条を液体処理後製織し、アルカリ処理をして、
分割させる方法（特開平２−２７７８８０号公報）、極
細繊維発生型複合糸を用い布帛形成後、極細繊維の発生
処理及び布帛を収縮させた後、乾熱湿潤処理を施しさら
に収縮させる方法（特開平５−２２２６６８号公報）な
どが提案されている。2. Description of the Related Art Many composite yarns for raised fabric have been proposed. For example, as a method for improving the raising property, texture, and surface feel of a fabric using ultrafine fibers, a method in which ultrafine fibers and highly shrinkable yarns are mixed and entangled (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-407).
No. 78), a method of mixing split type ultrafine yarn and filament yarn having a larger shrinkage than that (Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-45).
No. 770), multifilament yarns having different alkali solubilities are woven after liquid treatment and alkali treated,
A method of splitting (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-277880), a method of forming a fabric by using an ultrafine fiber-generating composite yarn, a treatment of generating ultrafine fibers and shrinking the fabric, and a dry heat / wet treatment to further shrink (special feature Kaihei 5-222668) and the like have been proposed.

【０００３】[0003]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】しかしながら、前記極
細繊維と高収縮糸を混繊交絡させる方法（特公昭６１−
４０７７８号公報）は、極細繊維をそのまま使うため、
極細繊維と高収縮糸の交絡、混繊が、フィラメントデニ
ール（繊度）の違いなどによりノズル内でうまく絡まな
いため困難である。さらに杢感もなく、羽毛の発生など
の問題も起こりやすいという問題があった。高収縮糸に
極細繊維の島成分と異なる染色性をもつフィラメントを
用いれば、杢感は得られるものの、極細繊維が外層に位
置しているため起毛した際、芯糸はあまり起毛されず良
好な杢感は得られないという問題があった。However, a method of mixing and entanglement of the ultrafine fibers and the high shrinkage yarn (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-
40778 gazette) uses ultrafine fibers as they are,
Entanglement and mixing of ultrafine fibers and high shrinkage yarns are difficult because they do not get entangled well in the nozzle due to differences in filament denier (fineness). Furthermore, there was a problem that there was no hesitation and problems such as the generation of feathers were likely to occur. When a filament having a dyeing property different from the island component of the ultrafine fiber is used for the high shrinkage yarn, a feeling of looseness can be obtained, but when the fiber is raised because the ultrafine fiber is located in the outer layer, the core yarn is not raised so much. There was a problem that no feeling of heat was obtained.

【０００４】また前記分割型の極細糸とそれよりも収縮
の大きいフィラメント糸を混繊させる方法（特公昭５９
−４５７７０号公報）では杢感は得られるものの、現在
実用化されている分割糸の成分の組み合わせで充分な堅
牢度が得らないという問題があった。例えば現在量産さ
れている代表的な分割糸であるポリアミド／ポリエステ
ル系のものは、ポリエステルを染める分散染料がポリア
ミド成分を汚染するために、堅牢度が非常に悪くなると
いう問題があった。Further, a method of mixing the split type ultrafine yarn and a filament yarn having a larger shrinkage than that (Japanese Patent Publication Sho 59).
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 45770/1989, although a feeling of looseness is obtained, there is a problem that a sufficient fastness is not obtained by a combination of the components of the split yarn which is currently put into practical use. For example, the polyamide / polyester type, which is a typical split yarn currently mass-produced, has a problem that the disperse dye for dyeing polyester contaminates the polyamide component, resulting in extremely poor fastness.

【０００５】また分割糸の成分間の染差によって杢を表
現している為に、１種類の分割糸で表現できる杢調が限
られており、場合によっては新しく分割糸を紡糸しなけ
ればならないので、多品種少量生産には向かないという
問題があった。Further, since the heather is expressed by the dyeing difference between the components of the split yarn, the amount of heather that can be expressed by one kind of split yarn is limited. In some cases, a new split yarn must be spun. Therefore, there is a problem that it is not suitable for high-mix low-volume production.

【０００６】また前記アルカリ溶解性の異なるマルチフ
ィラメント糸条を流体処理後製織し、アルカリ処理をし
て、分割させる方法（特開平２−２７７８８０号公報）
には、アルカリ処理後はアルカリ溶解性の小なるポリエ
ステルのみにするために、杢感は得られないという問題
があった。Further, a method of weaving the multifilament yarns having different alkali solubilities after fluid treatment and subjecting them to alkali treatment for division (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-277880)
However, there is a problem in that since a polyester having only a small alkali solubility is used after the alkali treatment, no feeling of heat is obtained.

【０００７】また前記極細繊維発生型複合糸を用い布帛
形成後、極細繊維の発生処理及び布帛を収縮させた後、
乾熱湿潤処理を施しさらに収縮させる方法（特開平５−
２２２６６８号公報）は、極細繊維が群をなすことな
く、非常に高い混繊状態で混繊されているため、片側染
色でも全体染色のごとく見え全くイラツイたり色斑が生
じず、表面感のある布帛は得られないという問題があっ
た。Further, after forming a fabric using the above-mentioned ultrafine fiber-generating composite yarn, after generating treatment of ultrafine fibers and shrinking the fabric,
A method of subjecting to dry heat and wet treatment to further shrink (Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Hei 5-
(222668 gazette), since ultrafine fibers do not form a group and are mixed in a very high mixed state, even if dyed on one side, it looks like whole dyeing and does not cause any irritation or color spots and has a surface feeling. There was a problem that a cloth could not be obtained.

【０００８】本発明は、前記従来の課題を解決するた
め、杢調で起毛性、風合い、堅牢度の優れた起毛布帛用
の芯鞘構造糸及びその製造方法を提供することを目的と
する。In order to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, it is an object of the present invention to provide a core-sheath structured yarn for a raised fabric, which has a heathered tone and is excellent in raising property, texture and fastness, and a method for producing the same.

【０００９】[0009]

【課題を解決するための手段】前記目的を達成するた
め、本発明の芯鞘構造糸は、３本以上の合成繊維マルチ
フィラメント糸で構成され、かつ染色性が異なる少なく
とも２種類のマルチフィラメント糸で構成される交絡型
芯鞘構造糸であって、鞘糸が海島型複合繊維Ａと前記複
合繊維Ａの島成分繊維と異なる染色性をもつフィラメン
ト糸Ｂで形成され、芯糸が前記複合繊維Ａまたは前記複
合繊維Ａ以外の繊維で形成され、かつ９８℃で２０分間
沸騰水収縮処理後の０．１ｍｍ以上の前記複合繊維Ａの
ループ数（Ｘ）と、フィラメント糸Ｂのループ数（Ｙ）
の比が、Ｘ：Ｙ＝１：５〜５：１の範囲であることを特
徴とする。In order to achieve the above object, the core-sheath structure yarn of the present invention is composed of three or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and has at least two kinds of multifilament yarns having different dyeability. A entangled type core-sheath structured yarn comprising a sea-island type composite fiber A and a filament yarn B having a dyeability different from that of the island component fiber of the composite fiber A, and the core yarn is the composite fiber. A or the number of loops (X) of the conjugate fiber A formed of fibers other than the above-mentioned conjugate fiber A and 0.1 mm or more after the boiling water shrinkage treatment at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes, and the number of loops of the filament yarn B (Y )
Ratio of X: Y = 1: 5 to 5: 1.

【００１０】前記構成においては、芯鞘構造糸を構成す
る合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸が、ポリエステル系合
成繊維であることが好ましい。また前記構成において
は、フィラメント糸Ｂの少なくとも一部がカチオン染料
可染繊維またはムラ延伸繊維であることが好ましい。In the above construction, it is preferable that the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn constituting the core-sheath structure yarn is a polyester synthetic fiber. Moreover, in the said structure, it is preferable that at least one part of the filament yarn B is dyeable fiber of a cationic dye, or uneven drawing fiber.

【００１１】また前記構成においては、芯糸の沸騰水収
縮率が鞘糸の沸騰水収縮率より３％以上大きいことが好
ましい。次に本発明の芯鞘構造糸の製造方法は、３本以
上の合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸で構成され、かつ染
色性が異なる少なくとも２種類のマルチフィラメント糸
に流体乱流加工を施して芯鞘構造糸を製造する方法であ
って、前記鞘糸に海島型繊維Ａと前記複合繊維Ａの島成
分と異なる染色性をもつフィラメント糸Ｂを使用し、さ
らに前記式（数１）及び（数２）を満たす原糸を使用す
ることを特徴とする。In the above construction, it is preferable that the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 3% or more higher than the boiling water shrinkage of the sheath yarn. Next, the core-sheath structure yarn manufacturing method of the present invention comprises a core-sheath structure in which at least two types of multi-filament yarns composed of three or more synthetic fiber multi-filament yarns and different in dyeability are subjected to fluid turbulence processing. A method for producing a yarn, wherein a sea-island type fiber A and a filament yarn B having a dyeability different from the island component of the composite fiber A are used as the sheath yarn, and the formula (Equation 1) and (Equation 2) are used. It is characterized in that a raw yarn satisfying the above conditions is used.

【００１２】前記構成においては前記海島型極細繊維Ａ
の海成分が弱アルカリ可溶型の共重合ポリエステルであ
り、フィラメント糸群Ｂの一部がカチオン可染であるこ
とが好ましい。In the above structure, the sea-island type ultrafine fiber A is used.
It is preferable that the sea component is a weakly alkali-soluble copolyester and a part of the filament yarn group B is cationically dyeable.

【００１３】また前記構成においてはフィラメント糸群
Ｂの一部がムラ延伸（不均一延伸）されていることが好
ましい。また前記構成においては、芯糸の沸収がサヤ糸
の沸収より３％以上大きいことが好ましい。In the above construction, it is preferable that a part of the filament yarn group B is unevenly drawn (nonuniformly drawn). Further, in the above structure, it is preferable that the boiling point of the core yarn is 3% or more higher than that of the sheath yarn.

【００１４】[0014]

【作用】前記した本発明の構成によれば、３本以上の合
成繊維マルチフィラメント糸で構成され、かつ染色性が
異なる少なくとも２種類のマルチフィラメント糸で構成
される交絡型芯鞘構造糸であって、鞘糸が海島型複合繊
維Ａと前記複合繊維Ａの島成分繊維と異なる染色性をも
つフィラメント糸Ｂで形成され、芯糸が前記複合繊維Ａ
または前記複合繊維Ａ以外の繊維で形成され、かつ９８
℃で２０分間沸騰水収縮処理後の０．１ｍｍ以上の前記
複合繊維Ａのループ数（Ｘ）と、フィラメント糸Ｂのル
ープ数（Ｙ）の比が、Ｘ：Ｙ＝１：５〜５：１の範囲で
あることにより、杢調で起毛性、風合い、堅牢度の優れ
た起毛布帛用の芯鞘構造糸を実現できる。すなわち、通
常の起毛法で起毛されるのはおもに０．１ｍｍ以上のル
ープであるために、２種類以上の染色性のことなるフィ
ラメントが均一に起毛されて、良好な杢感が得られる。
また、布帛形成後、海島型極細繊維の海成分（一例とし
て１０重量％）を溶解除去（脱海ともいう）するので、
海成分の部分が空隙となり、独特のぬめり感が生じ、ま
た起毛性も向上する。According to the above-mentioned structure of the present invention, the entangled core-sheath structure yarn is composed of three or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and at least two kinds of multifilament yarns having different dyeability. The sheath yarn is formed of the sea-island type composite fiber A and the filament yarn B having a dyeability different from that of the island component fiber of the composite fiber A, and the core yarn is the composite fiber A.
Or formed of a fiber other than the composite fiber A, and
The ratio of the loop number (X) of the composite fiber A of 0.1 mm or more after the boiling water shrinkage treatment at 20 ° C. for 20 minutes and the loop number (Y) of the filament yarn B is X: Y = 1: 5 to 5: Within the range of 1, it is possible to realize a core-sheath structure yarn for a raised fabric, which has a heathered tone and is excellent in raising property, texture and fastness. That is, since loops having a length of 0.1 mm or more are mainly raised by the usual raising method, two or more kinds of filaments having different dyeability are uniformly raised, and a good combing feeling is obtained.
In addition, since the sea component (10% by weight as an example) of the sea-island type ultrafine fiber is dissolved and removed (also referred to as de-sealing) after the fabric is formed,
The sea component part becomes voids, creating a unique slimy feeling and improving the brushing property.

【００１５】さらに前記海島型極細繊維Ａの海成分が弱
アルカリ可溶型の共重合ポリエステルであり、前記フィ
ラメント糸群Ｂの一部がカチオン可染であるという好ま
しい構成の場合、脱海する際に、カチオン可染糸も減量
され、より柔らかな風合いが得られる。Further, when the sea component of the sea-island type ultrafine fiber A is a weakly alkali-soluble type copolyester, and a part of the filament yarn group B is cationically dyeable, the seawater is desalinated. Also, the amount of cationic dyeable yarn is reduced, and a softer texture is obtained.

【００１６】また、前記フィラメント糸Ｂの一部がムラ
延伸されている好ましい構成の場合、ムラ延伸されてい
る糸がムラに染まるためより自然な目風のものが得られ
る。また、前記芯糸の沸収が鞘糸の沸収より３％以上大
きい好ましい構成の場合、熱処理を施すことにより、鞘
糸がより外層に位置するため、起毛性がよくなり、また
芯糸が表面にでる可能性が低くなるために、よりフィラ
メントデニール（繊度）の太い芯糸を用いて、布帛に張
り腰をもたせても、表面タッチは悪くならない。Further, in the case of a preferred construction in which a part of the filament yarn B is unevenly stretched, the unevenly stretched yarn is dyed unevenly, so that a more natural look can be obtained. Further, in the case of a preferable constitution in which the boiling point of the core yarn is 3% or more higher than the boiling point of the sheath yarn, the sheath yarn is located in the outer layer by heat treatment, so that the raising property is improved and the core yarn is Since the possibility of appearing on the surface is reduced, the surface touch is not deteriorated even when a thick core yarn having a filament denier (fineness) is used and the fabric is stretched.

【００１７】次に本発明の芯鞘構造糸の製造方法の構成
によれば、３本以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸で
構成され、かつ染色性が異なる少なくとも２種類のマル
チフィラメント糸に流体乱流加工を施して芯鞘構造糸を
製造する方法であって、前記鞘糸に海島型繊維Ａと前記
複合繊維Ａの島成分と異なる染色性をもつフィラメント
糸Ｂを使用し、さらに前記式（数１）及び（数２）を満
たす原糸を使用することにより、杢調で起毛性、風合い
の優れた起毛布帛用の芯鞘構造糸を効率よく合理的に製
造できる。Next, according to the constitution of the method for producing a core-sheath structured yarn of the present invention, fluid turbulence is generated in at least two kinds of multifilament yarns which are composed of three or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and have different dyeability. A method for producing a core-sheath structured yarn by performing processing, wherein the sheath yarn uses a sea-island type fiber A and a filament yarn B having a dyeability different from the island component of the composite fiber A, By using the raw yarns satisfying 1) and (Equation 2), it is possible to efficiently and rationally produce a core-sheath structured yarn for a raised fabric, which has a heathered tone and an excellent raised property and texture.

【００１８】以下に前記式（数１）の詳細を説明する。
フィラメントの直径はフィラメントが流体乱流加工域で
流体のあたる面積、つまりフィラメントが流体から受け
る力に比例する。またフィラメントのヤング率は、フィ
ラメントの曲がりやすさに比例する。すなわちフィラメ
ントの直径／フィラメントのヤング率はフィラメントの
流体乱流加工域での運動しやすさを表している。この値
の海島型極細繊維Ａと極細繊維の島成分と異なる染色性
をもつフィラメント糸Ｂとの比率が前記式（数１）を満
たしているので、ノズル内での海島型極細繊維Ａとフィ
ラメント糸群Ｂの運動しやすさの差が一定の範囲内にお
さまるので、良好な杢感が得られる。さらには良好な交
絡、混繊状態が得られるため、製品のばらつきが小さく
なるなど生産効率も向上する。次に前記式（数２）にお
いては、海成分が１０重量％以上あるため、布帛形成後
に脱海した際、空隙が生じ、ぬめり感のある独特の風合
いが得られる。さらに海成分が３０％重量以下のため、
ふかつきすぎない。The details of the equation (Equation 1) will be described below.
The diameter of the filament is proportional to the area that the filament hits in the fluid turbulent flow processing area, that is, the force that the filament receives from the fluid. The Young's modulus of the filament is proportional to the ease of bending of the filament. That is, the diameter of the filament / Young's modulus of the filament represents the ease of movement of the filament in the fluid turbulent flow processing region. Since the ratio of the sea-island type ultrafine fibers A and the filament yarn B having a dyeing property different from the island component of the ultrafine fibers satisfies this equation (Equation 1), the sea-island type ultrafine fibers A and filaments in the nozzle Since the difference in easiness of movement of the yarn group B falls within a certain range, a good feeling of hitting can be obtained. Furthermore, since a good entanglement and mixed fiber state can be obtained, the production efficiency is improved such that the product variation is reduced. Next, in the above formula (Formula 2), since the sea component is 10% by weight or more, when the sea is removed after forming the fabric, voids are formed, and a unique texture with a slimy feel is obtained. Furthermore, since the sea component is 30% or less by weight,
Don't get too confused.

【００１９】[0019]

【実施例】以下実施例を用いて本発明をさらに具体的に
説明する。以下の実施例において、９８℃で２０分沸騰
水収縮処理後の０．１ｍｍ以上のループ数は、海成分の
み選択的に吸着される染料、または前記フィラメント糸
Ｂのみ選択的に吸着される染料を用いて９８℃で２０分
染色した芯鞘構造糸の写真から測定した。また、海島型
複合糸は、島成分としてポリエチレンテレフタレート、
海成分としてソジウムスルホイソフタル酸ユニットを
５．１モル％共重合したエチレンテレフタレートポリマ
ーを複合金型を用いて溶融紡糸し延伸したものである。
また、カチオン可染糸は、ソジウムスルホイソフタル酸
ユニットを２．４モル％共重合したエチレンテレフタレ
ートポリマーを溶融紡糸し延伸したものである。またム
ラ延伸糸は、ポリエチレンテレフタレートを溶融紡糸し
た後、自然延伸倍率（ＮＤＲ）の５０〜９８％の範囲で
延伸したものである。さらに流体乱流加工処理は、糸交
絡器を用いて、圧力空気を７５リットル／分の割合で流
して処理した。The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to the following examples. In the following Examples, the number of loops of 0.1 mm or more after the boiling water shrinkage treatment at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes is a dye in which only the sea component is selectively adsorbed, or a dye in which only the filament yarn B is selectively adsorbed. Was measured from the photograph of the core-sheath structure yarn dyed at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes. In addition, the sea-island type composite yarn has polyethylene terephthalate as an island component,
An ethylene terephthalate polymer in which 5.1 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid unit was copolymerized as a sea component was melt-spun and stretched using a composite mold.
The cationic dyeable yarn is obtained by melt-spinning an ethylene terephthalate polymer obtained by copolymerizing 2.4 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid unit and drawing the polymer. The uneven stretched yarn is obtained by melt-spinning polyethylene terephthalate and then stretching it in the range of 50 to 98% of the natural draw ratio (NDR). Further, the fluid turbulence processing treatment was performed by using a yarn entangler to flow pressurized air at a rate of 75 liters / minute.

【００２０】（実施例１） 芯糸に繊度：７５デニール、フィラメント数３６本（以
下、単に「７５ｄ−３６ｆ」と省略する）の海島型複合
糸（アルカリ処理減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）を用い、鞘
糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）
の海島型複合糸と７５ｄ−７２ｆのカチオン可染糸を用
い、芯糸オーバーフィード率６％、鞘糸オーバーフィー
ド率２０％で流体乱流加工した。ここで、オーバーフィ
ード率とは、巻き取りローラーの糸の巻き取り速度に対
する供給ローラーの糸の供給速度の率をいう。得られた
芯鞘構造糸は、９８℃で２０分間沸騰水収縮処理し、
０．１ｍｍ以上の前記複合繊維Ａのループ数（Ｘ）と、
フィラメント糸Ｂのループ数（Ｙ）を測定した。その
後、この糸を緯糸に用い（経糸はポリエチレンテレフタ
レートマルチフィラメント糸：５０ｄ−２４ｆの仮撚
糸、経糸密度：１４４本／インチ、緯糸密度：９３本／
インチ、織物組織：サテン）、製織してから、９０℃で
リラックス精練し、１８０℃で乾燥、セットし、海成分
をアルカリ水溶液で溶解除去して染色し、乾燥後起毛工
程を経て得られた布帛を官能試験で４段階に評価した。
結果を表１に示す。Example 1 A sea-island type composite yarn (58d-288f after alkali treatment reduction) having a fineness of 75 denier and 36 filaments (hereinafter simply referred to as "75d-36f") was used as a core yarn, 75d-36f before weight reduction on sheath yarn (58d-288f after weight reduction)
Using the sea-island composite yarn of No. 1 and the cationic dyeable yarn of 75d-72f, fluid turbulent flow processing was performed with a core yarn overfeed rate of 6% and a sheath yarn overfeed rate of 20%. Here, the overfeed rate refers to the rate of the yarn feeding speed of the feeding roller with respect to the yarn winding speed of the winding roller. The obtained core-sheath structured yarn is subjected to boiling water shrinkage treatment at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes,
A loop number (X) of the composite fiber A of 0.1 mm or more;
The number of loops (Y) of the filament yarn B was measured. Thereafter, this yarn was used as a weft (the warp is a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn: a false twisted yarn of 50d-24f, a warp density: 144 yarns / inch, a weft density: 93 yarns / inch).
Inch, woven fabric: satin), after weaving, relaxing and scouring at 90 ° C., drying and setting at 180 ° C., dissolving and removing sea components with an alkaline aqueous solution, dyeing, and drying and raising the hair. The fabric was evaluated by a sensory test in four levels.
The results are shown in Table 1.

【００２１】また本実施例で得られた織物は、堅牢度の
優れた起毛布帛であった。 （実施例２）芯糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８
ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸を用い、鞘糸に減量前７
５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合
糸と７５ｄ−７２ｆのカチオン可染糸を用い、芯糸オー
バーフィード率６％海島型複合糸はフィード２０％、７
５ｄ−７２ｆのカチオン可染糸はオーバーフィード率２
５％で流体乱流加工した。その後実施例１と同様のルー
プ数の測定と、高次加工をし、得られた布帛を官能試験
で評価した結果を表１に示す。The woven fabric obtained in this example was a raised fabric with excellent fastness. (Example 2) 75d-36f before weight reduction (58 after weight reduction)
d-288f) sea-island type composite yarn is used, and the sheath yarn is
5d-36f (58d-288f after weight reduction) sea-island type composite yarn and 75d-72f cationic dyeable yarn were used, core yarn overfeed rate 6%, sea-island type composite yarn 20%, 7%.
5d-72f cationic dyeable yarn has an overfeed rate of 2
Fluid turbulence processing was performed at 5%. After that, the number of loops was measured in the same manner as in Example 1, the higher order processing was performed, and the obtained fabric was evaluated by a sensory test.

【００２２】（実施例３）芯糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ
（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸を用い、鞘
糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）
の海島型複合糸と７５ｄ−７２ｆのムラ延伸糸を用い、
芯糸オーバーフィード率６％、鞘糸オーバーフィード率
２０％で流体乱流加工した。その後実施例１と同様の高
次加工をし、得られた布帛を官能試験で評価した結果を
表１に示す。(Example 3) 75d-36f before weight reduction in core yarn
75d-36f before weight reduction (58d-288f after weight reduction) is used for the sheath yarn using the sea-island type composite yarn (after weight reduction 58d-288f).
Using the sea-island type composite yarn and the 75d-72f uneven drawn yarn,
Fluid turbulence processing was performed with a core yarn overfeed rate of 6% and a sheath yarn overfeed rate of 20%. After that, the same high-order processing as in Example 1 was performed, and the obtained fabric was evaluated by a sensory test. The results are shown in Table 1.

【００２３】（実施例４）芯糸に７５ｄ−１２ｆの高収
縮糸を用い、鞘糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８
ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸と、７５ｄ−７２ｆのム
ラ延伸糸を用い、芯糸オーバーフィード率６％、鞘糸オ
ーバーフィード率２０％で流体乱流加工した。その後実
施例１と同様の高次加工をし、得られた布帛を官能試験
で評価した結果を表１に示す。(Embodiment 4) A high shrinkage yarn of 75d-12f is used for the core yarn, and 75d-36f before weight reduction (58 after weight reduction) for the sheath yarn.
Using the sea-island type composite yarn of d-288f) and the uneven stretched yarn of 75d-72f, fluid turbulent flow processing was performed at a core yarn overfeed rate of 6% and a sheath yarn overfeed rate of 20%. After that, the same high-order processing as in Example 1 was performed, and the obtained fabric was evaluated by a sensory test. The results are shown in Table 1.

【００２４】[0024]

【表１】 [Table 1]

【００２５】（比較例１）芯糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ
（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸を用い、鞘
糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）
の海島型複合糸と７５ｄ−１２ｆのカチオン可染糸を用
い、芯糸オーバーフィード率６％、鞘糸オーバーフィー
ド率２０％で流体乱流加工した。その後実施例１と同様
の高次加工をし、得られた布帛を官能試験で評価した結
果を表２に示す。(Comparative Example 1) 75d-36f before weight reduction in core yarn
75d-36f before weight reduction (58d-288f after weight reduction) is used for the sheath yarn using the sea-island type composite yarn (after weight reduction 58d-288f).
Using the sea-island type composite yarn of No. 1 and the cationic dyeable yarn of 75d-12f, fluid turbulent flow processing was performed with a core yarn overfeed rate of 6% and a sheath yarn overfeed rate of 20%. Thereafter, the same high-order processing as in Example 1 was performed, and the obtained fabric was evaluated by a sensory test. The results are shown in Table 2.

【００２６】（比較例２）芯糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ
（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸を用い、サ
ヤ糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５８ｄ−２８８
ｆ）の海島型複合糸と５０ｄ−３４０ｆのカチオン可染
糸を用い、芯糸オーバーフィード率６％、鞘糸オーバー
フィード率２０％で流体乱流加工した。その後実施例１
と同様の高次加工をし、得られた布帛を官能試験で評価
した結果を表２に示す。(Comparative Example 2) 75d-36f before weight reduction in core yarn
The sea-island type composite yarn (58d-288f after weight reduction) is used, and the sheath yarn before weight reduction is 75d-36f (after weight reduction 58d-288f).
Using the sea-island type composite yarn of f) and the cationic dyeable yarn of 50d-340f, fluid turbulent flow processing was performed with a core yarn overfeed rate of 6% and a sheath yarn overfeed rate of 20%. Then Example 1
Table 2 shows the results of a sensory test of the obtained fabric, which was subjected to the same higher-order processing as in.

【００２７】（比較例３）芯糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ
（減量後５８ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸（海成分３
５％）を用い、鞘糸に減量前７５ｄ−３６ｆ（減量後５
８ｄ−２８８ｆ）の海島型複合糸と７５ｄ−１２ｆのカ
チオン可染糸を用い、芯糸オーバーフィード率６％、鞘
糸オーバーフィード率２０％で流体乱流加工した。その
後実施例１と同様の高次加工をし、得られた布帛を官能
試験で評価した結果を表２に示す。(Comparative Example 3) 75d-36f before weight reduction in core yarn
(58d-288f after weight reduction) sea-island composite yarn (sea component 3
5%), and the sheath yarn before weight reduction 75d-36f (after weight reduction 5
8d-288f) sea-island type composite yarn and 75d-12f cationic dyeable yarn were used for fluid turbulence processing with a core yarn overfeed ratio of 6% and a sheath yarn overfeed ratio of 20%. Thereafter, the same high-order processing as in Example 1 was performed, and the obtained fabric was evaluated by a sensory test. The results are shown in Table 2.

【００２８】[0028]

【表２】 [Table 2]

【００２９】以上の実施例１〜４、及び比較例１〜３か
ら明らかな通り、本発明の芯鞘構造糸は、杢調で起毛
性、風合い、張り腰性に優れ、かつ高次加工工程通過性
に優れた芯鞘構造糸であることが確認できた。As is clear from Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 described above, the core-sheath structure yarn of the present invention has a heathered tone, is excellent in raising property, texture, and elasticity and has a high-order processing step. It was confirmed that the yarn was a core-sheath structure yarn having excellent passability.

【００３０】[0030]

【発明の効果】以上説明した通り、本発明によれば、３
本以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸で構成され、か
つ染色性が異なる少なくとも２種類のマルチフィラメン
ト糸で構成される交絡型芯鞘構造糸であって、鞘糸が海
島型複合繊維Ａと前記複合繊維Ａの島成分繊維と異なる
染色性をもつフィラメント糸Ｂで形成され、芯糸が前記
複合繊維Ａまたは前記複合繊維Ａ以外の繊維で形成さ
れ、かつ９８℃で２０分間沸騰水収縮処理後の０．１ｍ
ｍ以上の前記複合繊維Ａのループ数（Ｘ）と、フィラメ
ント糸Ｂのループ数（Ｙ）の比が、Ｘ：Ｙ＝１：５〜
５：１の範囲であることにより、杢調で起毛性、風合
い、堅牢度の優れた起毛布帛用の芯鞘構造糸を実現でき
る。As described above, according to the present invention, 3
1. A entangled type core-sheath structure yarn composed of at least two kinds of multifilament yarns, which are composed of two or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and different in dyeability, wherein the sheath yarn is a sea-island composite fiber A and the above-mentioned composite fiber. The filament yarn B having a dyeing property different from that of the island component fiber A, the core yarn is formed of the composite fiber A or a fiber other than the composite fiber A, and 0 after boiling water shrinkage treatment at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes. .1m
The ratio of the number of loops (X) of the composite fiber A of m or more to the number of loops (Y) of the filament yarn B is X: Y = 1: 5 to
When the ratio is in the range of 5: 1, it is possible to realize a core-sheath structure yarn for a raised fabric, which has a heathered tone and is excellent in raising property, texture and fastness.

【００３１】また本発明の製造方法によれば、３本以上
の合成繊維マルチフィラメント糸で構成され、かつ染色
性が異なる少なくとも２種類のマルチフィラメント糸に
流体乱流加工を施して芯鞘構造糸を製造する方法であっ
て、前記鞘糸に海島型繊維Ａと前記複合繊維Ａの島成分
と異なる染色性をもつフィラメント糸Ｂを使用し、さら
に前記式（数１）及び（数２）を満たす原糸を使用する
ことにより、杢調で起毛性、風合いの優れた起毛布帛用
の芯鞘構造糸を効率よく合理的に製造できる。According to the production method of the present invention, at least two types of multifilament yarns composed of three or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and having different dyeing properties are subjected to fluid turbulence processing to form a core-sheath structure yarn. A method for producing the above, wherein a sea-island type fiber A and a filament yarn B having a dyeability different from the island component of the composite fiber A are used for the sheath yarn, and the formulas (Equation 1) and (Equation 2) are further added. By using the raw yarn to be filled, the core-sheath structure yarn for a raised fabric, which has a heathered tone, an excellent raising property and an excellent texture, can be efficiently and rationally produced.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (72)発明者 塩島 実 愛知県中島郡平和町上三宅字上屋敷１番地 １ 東レ・テキスタイル株式会社本社東海 事業場内 (72)発明者 小島 安浩 愛知県中島郡平和町上三宅字上屋敷１番地 １ 東レ・テキスタイル株式会社本社東海 事業場内 (72)発明者 石榑 康二 愛知県中島郡平和町上三宅字上屋敷１番地 １ 東レ・テキスタイル株式会社本社東海 事業場内 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Minor Shiojima No. 1 Kamiyakeji, Kamimiyake, Heiwa-machi, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture 1 Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Tokai Plant Headquarters (72) Inventor Yasuhiro Kojima Heiwa-cho, Nakajima-gun, Aichi Prefecture Kamimiyake Kamiyashiki No. 1 1 Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Headquarters Tokai Plant (72) Inventor Koji Ishigure Kamimiyake Nakajima-gun Aichi Prefecture Kamimiyake Kamiyashiki No. 1 Toray Textile Co., Ltd. Tokai Plant

Claims (5)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項１】 ３本以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメント
糸で構成され、かつ染色性が異なる少なくとも２種類の
マルチフィラメント糸で構成される交絡型芯鞘構造糸で
あって、鞘糸が海島型複合繊維Ａと前記複合繊維Ａの島
成分繊維と異なる染色性をもつフィラメント糸Ｂで形成
され、芯糸が前記複合繊維Ａまたは前記複合繊維Ａ以外
の繊維で形成され、かつ９８℃で２０分間沸騰水収縮処
理後の０．１ｍｍ以上の前記複合繊維Ａのループ数
（Ｘ）と、フィラメント糸Ｂのループ数（Ｙ）の比が、
Ｘ：Ｙ＝１：５〜５：１の範囲であることを特徴とする
芯鞘構造糸。1. A entangled core-sheath structure yarn composed of three or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and composed of at least two kinds of multifilament yarns having different dyeability, wherein the sheath yarn is a sea-island composite. The filament A is formed of a filament yarn B having a dyeing property different from that of the island component fiber of the conjugate fiber A, the core yarn is formed of the conjugate fiber A or a fiber other than the conjugate fiber A, and boiling at 98 ° C. for 20 minutes The ratio of the number of loops (X) of the composite fiber A of 0.1 mm or more after the water shrinkage treatment and the number of loops (Y) of the filament yarn B is
X: Y = 1: 5 to 5: 1 The core-sheath structure yarn characterized by the range. 【請求項２】 芯鞘構造糸を構成する合成繊維マルチフ
ィラメント糸が、ポリエステル系合成繊維である請求項
１に記載の芯鞘構造糸。2. The core-sheath structure yarn according to claim 1, wherein the synthetic fiber multifilament yarn constituting the core-sheath structure yarn is a polyester synthetic fiber. 【請求項３】 フィラメント糸Ｂの少なくとも一部がカ
チオン染料可染繊維またはムラ延伸繊維である請求項１
に記載の芯鞘構造糸。3. At least a part of the filament yarn B is a dye capable of dyeing a cationic dye or an uneven stretched fiber.
The core-sheath structured yarn according to 1. 【請求項４】 芯糸の沸騰水収縮率が鞘糸の沸騰水収縮
率より３％以上大きい請求項１，２または３に記載の芯
鞘構造糸。4. The core-sheath structured yarn according to claim 1, wherein the boiling water shrinkage of the core yarn is 3% or more higher than the boiling water shrinkage of the sheath yarn. 【請求項５】 ３本以上の合成繊維マルチフィラメント
糸で構成され、かつ染色性が異なる少なくとも２種類の
マルチフィラメント糸に流体乱流加工を施して芯鞘構造
糸を製造する方法であって、前記鞘糸に海島型繊維Ａと
前記複合繊維Ａの島成分と異なる染色性をもつフィラメ
ント糸Ｂを使用し、さらに下記式（数１）及び（数２）
を満たす原糸を使用することを特徴とする芯鞘構造糸の
製造方法。 【数１】 【数２】 5. A method for producing a core-sheath structured yarn by subjecting at least two types of multifilament yarns composed of three or more synthetic fiber multifilament yarns and different in dyeability to fluid turbulence processing. As the sheath yarn, a sea-island type fiber A and a filament yarn B having a dyeing property different from the island component of the composite fiber A are used, and the following formulas (Formula 1) and (Formula 2) are used.
A method for producing a core-sheath structure yarn, which comprises using a raw yarn satisfying the above conditions. [Equation 1] [Equation 2]