JPH07150403A - Suit - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a suit in which the depth of the under sleeve is made shallower than the hook depth of the arm hole formed in the front body part, thus the suit can be fitly put on by persons different in chest measurement because of its softness in the arm hole seal and easiness to move. CONSTITUTION:The depth of the under sleeve (part) of the sleeve 6 is made shallower than the hook depth of the arm hole 5 in the front body part. Some allowance is formed in the part corresponding to the armpit o the back side of the sleeve and the position of the hook bottom moves to the inside of the under sleeve from the seaming position with the low sleeve. Since there is a tendency for the arm pit of the sleeve to always come, the silhouette is not damaged.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【０００１】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、主として男性が着用す
るスーツに関する。BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates mainly to suits worn by men.

【０００２】[0002]

【従来の技術】従来のスーツは美しい袖の形を作るため
に、図８に示すブルゾンの袖ａの高低差ｈのに比べ、図
７に示すように、山袖ａの山高さを高く谷袖ｂの谷深さ
を深く取っている。2. Description of the Related Art In the conventional suit, in order to form a beautiful sleeve shape, as compared with the height difference h of the sleeve a of the blouson shown in FIG. 8, as shown in FIG. The valley depth of sleeve b is deep.

【０００３】[0003]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】このため、前身ごろに
設けた袖繰りの鎌深寸法も谷袖の谷深さに合わせて深く
なる。これによって動作が少なければ美しい形を保つ
が、動きが大きくなるとスーツに無理がかかって動き難
くなると共に袖に部分的に見苦しいしわが出来る。For this reason, the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement provided around the front body also becomes deeper in accordance with the valley depth of the valley sleeve. This keeps the shape beautiful if there is little movement, but if the movement is large, it makes the suit difficult to move and makes the sleeve partly unsightly wrinkles.

【０００４】しかも胸囲の大小によって最も影響だある
のは袖繰りの部分である。即ち胸囲りが大きいスーツほ
ど袖繰りの鎌深寸法は深くしなければ成らないが、袖繰
りの鎌深寸法を深くすると、胸囲の小さい人が着た場合
袖の付根部分が太い感じを与えて体裁を損なう。従って
従来のスーツでは胸囲りの大小による自由度は自と制限
される等の不具合があった。本発明はかかる不具合のな
いスーツを得ることを目的とする。What is most affected by the size of the chest is the sleeve portion. That is, the larger the chest circumference, the deeper the sickle depth of the sleeve must be made.However, if the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement is made deeper, the root part of the sleeve gives a thick feeling when worn by a person with a small chest circumference. Spoil the appearance. Therefore, in the conventional suit, there is a problem that the degree of freedom depending on the size of the chest is restricted. The present invention aims to obtain a suit that does not have such problems.

【０００５】[0005]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明はかかる目的を達
成するため、請求項１記載のスーツは、前身ごろに設け
た袖繰りの鎌深寸法より、谷袖の谷深さを浅くしたこと
を特徴とする。In order to achieve such an object of the present invention, in the suit according to claim 1, the valley depth of the valley sleeve is shallower than the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement provided around the front body. Is characterized by.

【０００６】請求項２記載のスーツは、前身ごろに設け
た袖繰りの鎌深さに合致させた仮想の谷袖の谷深さ位置
と、前身ごろに設けた袖繰りの鎌深さより谷袖の谷深さ
を浅くした谷深さ位置との間隔を２分する位置に沿って
内方に折れる折線を施したことを特徴とする。In the suit according to claim 2, the valley depth position of the virtual valley sleeve that matches the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement provided on the front body and the valley sleeve from the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement provided on the front body are provided. It is characterized in that a fold line that bends inward is provided along a position that divides the interval between the valley depth position and the valley depth position that is shallow.

【０００７】[0007]

【作用】本発明による請求項１記載のスーツにあって
は、前身ごろに設けた袖繰りの鎌深寸法より、谷袖の谷
深さを浅くしたため、袖の裏側（脇下に当たる部分）に
余裕ができ、結果として、鎌底位置が、前身ごろに設け
た袖繰りと谷袖との縫合位置より谷袖の内側にずれる。
これによって胸囲の異なる者にもフイットした状態で着
られ、しかも袖の付根部分が柔らかく動き易いスーツが
得られる。請求項１記載のスーツにあっては、該内方に
折れる折線によって、袖の脇下が常に内方に入り勝手と
なって体裁を損なうことがない。In the suit according to the first aspect of the present invention, since the valley depth of the valley sleeves is made shallower than the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement provided around the front, the back side of the sleeve (the portion under the armpit) is There is a margin, and as a result, the sickle bottom position is displaced to the inside of the valley sleeve from the stitching position between the sleeve sleeve and the valley sleeve provided around the front.
As a result, it is possible to obtain a suit that can be worn by people with different chest circumferences in a fitted state, and the base of the sleeve is soft and easy to move. In the suit according to the first aspect of the invention, the fold line that folds inward prevents the armpit of the sleeve from always entering inward and damaging the appearance.

【０００８】[0008]

【実施例】本発明装置の実施例を図１乃至図４によって
説明する。図１はスーツを背側から見た要部の斜視図を
示し、同図で１は前身ごろを示し、該前身ごろ１は前身
２と細腹３から成る。４は背地、５は該前身ごろ１に設
けた袖繰り、６は袖を示し、袖６は図７に示すごとく、
谷袖７と山袖８とで構成される。DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS An embodiment of the device of the present invention will be described with reference to FIGS. FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a main part of the suit as viewed from the back side, in which FIG. 1 shows a front body, which comprises a front body 2 and a belly 3. 4 is a backing area, 5 is a sleeve arrangement provided on the front body 1, 6 is a sleeve, and the sleeve 6 is as shown in FIG.
It is composed of valley sleeves 7 and mountain sleeves 8.

【０００９】本発明はかかるスーツにあって、図３に示
すごとく、前身ごろ１に設けた袖繰り５の鎌深寸法９よ
り、谷袖７の谷深さ１０を浅くしたもので、これを更に
説明すると、前身２と細腹３と谷袖７との３者が交差す
る谷袖７の位置イと、背地４と細腹３と谷袖７との３者
が交差する谷袖７の位置ロとを結ぶ湾曲線を、前身ごろ
１に設けた袖繰り５の鎌深さに合致させた仮想の谷袖の
谷深さ１０ａ（点線で示す）を、上記位置イ，ロを結ぶ
線を中心に略線対称位置に移動させて出来る線を谷袖７
の谷深さ１０とした。そして、前記位置イ，ロを結ぶ線
に沿って内方に折れる折線１２を施す。そしてこれらを
縫合してスーツとするときは、該袖６の裏側（脇下に当
たる部分）に余裕ができ、結果として、鎌底位置が、前
身ごろ１に設けた袖繰り５と谷袖７との縫合位置より谷
袖７の内側にずれる。即ち、縫合により固くなる縫目線
から離れた位置に鎌底位置が来るため、柔らかく動き易
いスーツが得られる。In the suit of the present invention, as shown in FIG. 3, the valley depth 10 of the valley sleeve 7 is made shallower than the sickle depth dimension 9 of the sleeve arrangement 5 provided in the front body 1 and this is More specifically, the position i of the valley sleeve 7 where the three members of the predecessor 2, the thin belly 3 and the valley sleeve 7 intersect, and the position of the valley sleeve 7 where the three of the land 4, the thin belly 3 and the valley sleeve 7 intersect. A curved line connecting the position b and the curved line connecting the positions a and b with a virtual valley depth 10a (shown by a dotted line) of the virtual valley sleeve that matches the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement 5 provided on the front body 1. A line formed by moving it to a substantially line symmetrical position around
The valley depth was set to 10. Then, a folding line 12 is formed so as to be folded inward along the line connecting the positions a and b. When these are sewn together to form a suit, there is a margin on the back side of the sleeve 6 (a portion that hits the armpit), and as a result, the sickle bottom position is the sleeve sleeve 5 and the valley sleeve 7 provided in the front body 1. The inner side of the valley sleeve 7 is deviated from the suture position. That is, since the sickle bottom position is located at a position away from the seam line that becomes stiff by sewing, a soft and easy-to-move suit can be obtained.

【００１０】次にこのようにして得られたスーツが胸囲
の大小に対し自由度（フリーサイズ）がある点に付いて
説明する。Next, the suit thus obtained has a degree of freedom (free size) with respect to the size of the chest, which will be described.

【００１１】図５で実線Ｘで示すものは、胸囲９８cmの
取り寸法の製図、点線Ｙは胸囲１０８cmの取り寸法の製
図を示す。そして、同図において線Ｃを基準とすれば、
胸囲９８cmのものに比し胸囲１０８cmのものは、Ｅから
Ｆに脇幅が増し、鎌深さもＡからＢのように深くなる。A solid line X in FIG. 5 shows a drawing of a chest size of 98 cm, and a dotted line Y shows a drawing of a chest size of 108 cm. Then, with reference to the line C in the figure,
The chest width of 108 cm is wider than that of 98 cm, and the side width increases from E to F, and the sickle depth also becomes deeper from A to B.

【００１２】尚、同図で線Ｋは胸囲１１３cmの鎌深さ位
置を示し実寸でＡ〜Ｋ間の寸法は２、５cmとなる。図３
に示すものは、図５に合わせた裄が７９cmの場合の袖６
を示すが、このもので仮想の谷袖の谷深さ１０ａと谷袖
７の谷深さ１０との幅を５cm取ることが出来る。この部
分を上記位置イ，ロを結ぶ線で折る。すると、この折線
位置が実質的な鎌深さ位置となる。このことは、実質的
に鎌深さ位置が２、５cmがけ調節出来る。従って、胸囲
９８cmから胸囲１１３cmのものまで、約１５cmの許容範
囲を持つスーツを得られることとなる。In the figure, the line K indicates the sickle depth position of the chest circumference of 113 cm, and the actual size between A and K is 2.5 cm. Figure 3
The one shown in Fig. 5 is sleeve 6 when the sleeve is 79 cm according to Fig. 5.
As shown, the width between the virtual valley depth 10a of the valley sleeve and the valley depth 10 of the valley sleeve 7 can be 5 cm. Fold this part along the line connecting the above positions a and b. Then, this fold line position becomes the actual sickle depth position. This allows the sickle depth position to be adjusted by a practical 2,5 cm. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a suit having an allowable range of about 15 cm from a chest measurement of 98 cm to a chest measurement of 113 cm.

【００１３】[0013]

【発明の効果】本発明によるときは、請求項１記載のス
ーツにあっては、前身ごろに設けた袖繰りの鎌深寸法よ
り、谷袖の谷深さを浅くしたため、袖の裏側（脇下に当
たる部分）に余裕ができ、結果として、鎌底位置が、前
身ごろに設けた袖繰りと谷袖との縫合位置より谷袖の内
側にずれることで、胸囲の異なる者にもフイットした状
態で着られ、しかも袖の付根部分が柔らかく動き易いス
ーツが得られる。According to the present invention, in the suit according to claim 1, since the valley depth of the valley sleeve is made smaller than the sickle depth of the sleeve arrangement provided on the front side, the back side of the sleeve (the side) There is room in the bottom part), and as a result, the position of the sickle bottom is shifted to the inside of the valley sleeve from the position where the sleeve and the valley sleeve are sewn around the front body, so that it fits people with different chest circumferences. You can get a suit that is easy to move because the sleeve roots are soft.

【００１４】請求項２記載のスーツにあっては、該内方
に折れる折線によって袖の脇下が常に内方に入り勝手と
なって体裁を損なうことがない。In the suit according to the second aspect, the fold line that folds inward does not cause the armpit of the sleeve to always enter inward and be unintentional.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図１】本発明の実施の一例を示すスーツの要部の斜視
図FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a main part of a suit showing an embodiment of the present invention.

【図２】図１のII-II 線断面図FIG. 2 is a sectional view taken along line II-II of FIG.

【図３】図１の谷袖の製図[Fig. 3] Drawing of the valley sleeve in Fig. 1.

【図４】図１の袖がフリーサイズとなることを示す図FIG. 4 is a diagram showing that the sleeves in FIG. 1 can be freely sized.

【図５】胸囲を変化させた場合の製図[Figure 5] Drawings when the chest circumference is changed

【図６】従来のスーツの要部の斜視図FIG. 6 is a perspective view of a main part of a conventional suit.

【図７】従来の袖の側面図FIG. 7: Side view of conventional sleeve

【図８】ブルゾンタイプの袖の側面図[Figure 8] Side view of blouson-type sleeves

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

１ 前身ごろ ２ 前身 ３ 細腹 ４ 背地 ５ 袖繰り ６ 袖 ７ 谷袖 1 Front body 2 Predecessor 3 Narrow belly 4 Backing 5 Sleeves 6 Sleeves 7 Valley sleeves

Claims (2)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項１】 前身ごろに設けた袖繰りの鎌深さより、
谷袖の谷深さを浅くしたことを特徴とするスーツ。1. From the depth of the sickle in the sleeve provided around the front,
A suit characterized by a shallow trough depth. 【請求項２】 前身ごろに設けた袖繰りの鎌深さに合致
させた仮想の谷袖の谷深さ位置と、前身ごろに設けた袖
繰りの鎌深さより谷袖の谷深さを浅くした谷深さ位置と
を略２分する線に沿って内方に折れる折線を施したこと
を特徴とする請求項１記載のスーツ。2. The trough depth of the trough sleeve is made shallower than the trough depth position of the virtual trough sleeve matching the sickle depth of the sleeve trim provided on the front body and the sickle depth of the flesh sleeve provided on the front body. 2. The suit according to claim 1, wherein a fold line is provided that folds inward along a line that bisects the valley depth position.