JPH0683728U - Interlining structure of clothes - Google Patents
Interlining structure of clothesInfo
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- JPH0683728U JPH0683728U JP2959093U JP2959093U JPH0683728U JP H0683728 U JPH0683728 U JP H0683728U JP 2959093 U JP2959093 U JP 2959093U JP 2959093 U JP2959093 U JP 2959093U JP H0683728 U JPH0683728 U JP H0683728U
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- interlining
- clothes
- shape
- dimensional
- adhesive
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Abstract
(57)【要約】
【目的】洋服の芯地に三次元的な身体の凹凸湾曲部に対
するソフトなフィット性を付与し、ボリューム感が充分
にある形状を有する芯地を提供する。
【構成】台芯1の身体の凹凸部,湾曲部に対応する部分
にダーツ2,2' ,2''を有する補強芯地5,5' ,5
''を接着剤を介してドットタイプ,シンタータイプに接
合し、スチームアイロンによる加熱,加湿プレスを介し
所定方向に身体形状にマッチングする凹凸形状を与えて
立体的に変形化し、適切な立体的ボリューム感を付与す
るようにする。
【効果】平面的な布地により、三次元的身体形状の凹凸
部や湾曲部にソフトなボリューム感を有して充分なフィ
ット性を付与し、スーツ,ジャケット,コート等に自然
な立体感を付与し、又、活動性を何ら損うことなく、商
品価値を上げ、且つ、芯地に本来的な充分な強度,剛
性,柔軟な機能を保持することが出来る。
(57) [Summary] [Purpose] To provide an interlining having a shape with a sufficient volume feeling by giving a soft fitting property to a three-dimensional concave-convex curved portion of a body to an interlining of clothes. [Structure] Reinforcement interlinings 5, 5 ', 5 having darts 2, 2', 2 "on portions of the base core 1 corresponding to the irregularities and curves of the body
'' Is bonded to the dot type and the sinter type with an adhesive, and the uneven shape that matches the body shape in a predetermined direction is given by heating with a steam iron and a humidifying press to three-dimensionally deform, and an appropriate three-dimensional volume. Try to give a feeling. [Effect] With a flat cloth, it gives a soft volume feeling to the uneven parts and curved parts of the three-dimensional body shape and gives a sufficient fit, giving a suit, jacket, coat, etc. a natural three-dimensional effect. In addition, the product value can be increased without any loss of activity, and the interlining can retain its inherent sufficient strength, rigidity, and flexible function.
Description
【0001】[0001]
開示技術は、スーツ,ジャケット,コート等の洋服が強度,剛性,柔軟性を有 すると共に湾曲部,凹凸部をソフトなシルエットの保形性を有するように現出す る複から成る芯地の構造の技術分野に属する。 The disclosed technology is an interlining structure composed of a plurality of suits, jackets, coats, and the like, which have strength, rigidity, and flexibility, and at the same time, show curved and uneven portions so as to retain the shape of a soft silhouette. Belongs to the technical field of.
【0002】[0002]
周知の如く、各種の産業が個々に、又、全体として隆盛になり、これに伴い市 民生活も著しく向上し、衣食住について量的,形式的なレベルがかなりの程度満 されるようになると、必然的に更なる質的な向上が求められるようになって、食 生活にあっては、近時グルメ指向等美食感や飽食感が高まってきているが、衣生 活についても、単に、身体を被覆する本来的な防寒機能,涼感機能のみならず、 外観的に美栄えの良いファッション性や格調高いコレクション性等の意匠性が強 く求められるようになってきている。 As is well known, various industries have become prosperous individually and as a whole, and as a result, the lives of citizens have been significantly improved, and the quantitative and formal levels of food, clothing and shelter have been met to a considerable extent. Inevitably, further qualitative improvements are being demanded, and in eating habits, the feeling of gastronomy and satiety are increasing recently. There is a strong demand for not only the cold protection function and the coolness function that cover the interior, but also the fashionability that is visually appealing and the design characteristics such as elegant collection.
【0003】 而して、上述の如き衣服の防寒性や涼感性等は日常の各種生産生活は勿論のこ と、私生活,余暇利用等においても活動的であることが行動半径の拡大と共に歓 迎され、勢い、かっての伝統的な和服(当該和服自体の利点は種々あるものでは あるが)に代って洋服が衣服の中心を占めるようになり、夜具に於ても寝室に於 ける蒲団に代ってベッドが用いられるに呼応するように寝巻きに代ってパジャマ が用いられる等衣生活にあっても昼用,夜用を問わず次第に洋風化が進んでいる 。With the expansion of the radius of action, it is welcomed that the above-mentioned cold-prevention property and coolness of clothes are active not only in various daily production lives but also in personal life and leisure use. Therefore, the momentum, the traditional traditional Japanese clothes (there are various advantages of the original Japanese clothes itself), the clothes became the center of the clothes, and even in the nightwear, it became a group in the bedroom. Even in daily life, such as when pajamas are used instead of nightwear so as to respond to beds being used instead, westernization is gradually progressing regardless of whether it is for day or night.
【0004】 ところで、かかる洋服にあっては単に身体をカバーするばかりでなく、当該身 体の各部屈伸等さまざまな挙動に追従して自由で柔軟な身のこなしに倣い得るこ とが求められるようになり、これを阻害するようなことがないようにデザイン性 と共にフィット性が極めて重要視され、その製造にあっては自動ミシンによる量 産にしても、家内工業的な手縫作業によるものであっても、本来素材としての服 地が平面的な布地(織布,不織布を含めて)をしてその二次元的特性の故に三次 元的身体の立体的表面を被覆する形状に形成することはもともとなじまないもの である。By the way, in such clothes, it is required not only to cover the body but also to be able to follow various behaviors such as bending and stretching of various parts of the body to imitate free and flexible manners. It is extremely important not only to design but also to fit so that it will not hinder this. Even if there is a cloth, the cloth as a material should be a flat cloth (including woven cloth and non-woven cloth) and formed into a shape that covers the three-dimensional surface of the three-dimensional body due to its two-dimensional characteristics. Is something that doesn't fit in originally.
【0005】 しかしながら、和服,洋服を含めて衣服の製造は技術的にみて伝統的に縫製が もともと主流であり、洋服の製造技術にあっても、該縫製は歴史的に極めて長く 、又、技術分野的にも各種産業の中でも最も旧いものの1つであるところから、 かかる二次元的織布を用いての三次元的身体を最適に被覆する加工技術がさまざ まに研究開発され、近時相当に高度に発達した立体的で美栄えの良いシルエット を有する洋服の現出も可能にはなってきている。However, technically, clothing has traditionally been mainly used in the manufacture of clothes including Japanese clothes and clothes, and even in the technology of manufacturing clothes, the sewing is historically extremely long, and Since it is one of the oldest in various industries in terms of fields, various research and development of processing technology for optimally covering a three-dimensional body using such a two-dimensional woven cloth have been made recently. It is becoming possible to show clothes that have a highly developed, three-dimensional and attractive silhouette.
【0006】 しかしながら、布地の有する服地としてのソフト感、又、その触感的な肌ざわ り等の風合は強いなじみ性を有して極めて根強い人気があり、したがって、服地 に対する縫製に基づく洋服の仕立が今猶洋服生産の主流をなしているが、上述立 体的シルエットを有する洋服は量産体制にしろ、手作業体制にしろ、始源的には 極めて熟練を要し、人手不足等によりコスト高を招いてる。[0006] However, the soft feeling of the cloth as a cloth and the texture such as the tactile feel of the cloth have a strong familiarity and are extremely deeply popular. Therefore, the clothes based on the sewing to the cloth are used. Tailoring is now the mainstream of garment production, but the clothes with the above-mentioned vertical silhouette require mass production or manual work, and at the beginning require extremely skillful and costly due to lack of manpower. Inviting high.
【0007】 したがって、かかる点は流通のネックともなって服種によっては需要の低迷を もきたしている。[0007] Therefore, this point becomes a bottleneck of distribution, and the demand is sluggish depending on the type of clothes.
【0008】 而して、洋服はその見た目の感触の風合や着用時のソフト感や肌ざわり、加え て強度,耐久性,保形性等の点でいずれにしても表地に対し裏地等を合せて縫製 されているが、クリーニングや頻繁なタンス,クローゼット等に対する納出等に よる生地の疲労によるしわ,変色,型くずれ等を防ぐために、該表地や裏地の間 に所定の芯地を介装して強度,剛性を保持し、可及的に充分な保形性をも永く具 備させるようにする仕立態様が洋服の縫製には不可欠とされている。[0008] In addition, the clothes have a lining or the like for the outer material in terms of the feel of the appearance, the soft feeling when worn, the texture, and the strength, durability, and shape retention. They are also sewn together, but in order to prevent wrinkles, discoloration, and loss of shape due to fatigue of the fabric due to cleaning, frequent chests, closets, etc., a specified interlining is inserted between the outer and lining fabrics. Therefore, it is essential for sewing clothes to maintain the strength and rigidity of the clothes and to provide them with sufficient shape retention for a long time.
【0009】 そして、かかる表地,裏地,芯地を含む織布の二次元性から身体の三次元的立 体表面を被覆する湾曲部や凹凸部の形状を保持してボリューム感,ソフト感,ナ イーブ感を現出して好ましいシルエットを永く具備するには機械工業での各種金 属製品に於けるパネルからの絞り加工を介しての立体形状製品の成形と同様な加 工手段が布地に対して物理的に行えないところから所謂ダーツ技術が最適である とされてきた。Due to the two-dimensionality of the woven fabric including the outer material, the lining material, and the interlining material, the shape of the curved portion or the uneven portion that covers the three-dimensional body surface of the body is maintained and the volume, softness, and smoothness are improved. In order to bring out an eaves feeling and to have a desirable silhouette for a long time, the same processing means as molding of a three-dimensional product through drawing from the panel in various metal products in the mechanical industry is applied to the fabric. The so-called darts technology has been considered optimal because it cannot be physically performed.
【0010】 即ち、該種ダーツ技術は当業者ならずとも周知の如く所定の強度,剛性,柔軟 性等を有する単層、或いは、複層の芯地に対し所定に付与されたVカット状のダ ーツ(切目部)をつまんで糸による仮付け加工のジグザク状の縫い付けを行うも のであり、表地や裏地は当該芯地のダーツによるシルエットに織布の柔軟性を介 し身体に対し立体的なフィット性を具備するようにされている。That is, as is well known to those skilled in the art, this kind of darts technique is a V-cut type which is given to a single-layered or multi-layered interlining having predetermined strength, rigidity, flexibility and the like. Zigzag sewn by squeezing the darts (cuts) and tacking with threads is used, and the darts silhouette of the interlining is used for the outer material and lining through the flexibility of the woven cloth to the body. It is designed to have a three-dimensional fit.
【0011】 即ち、図9に示す様に、台芯の芯地1に対しその所望部位(身体の凹凸曲面等 )に対応する湾曲部位に所定サイズ,形状のダーツ2,2' ,2''を予め付与し 、これをつまんで(ダーツを閉じて)仮止め用のジグザグ状等の縫い付け3を付 与し、その後、胸増し芯や肩増し芯のバス芯等の補強芯地4を添付する等して可 及的に充分な凹凸状部や湾曲状部を現出させ、該ダーツ2,2' ,2''分の補強 は該補強芯地4によってそれを司どるようにしていた。That is, as shown in FIG. 9, the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ having a predetermined size and shape are formed on the curved portion corresponding to the desired portion (such as the uneven curved surface of the body) on the interlining 1 of the pedestal. In advance, squeeze it (close the darts) and sew it in a zigzag sewn 3 for temporary fixing, and then add a reinforcing interlining 4 such as a breast pad and a shoulder pad core. By attaching them, etc., as much as possible a concavo-convex portion and a curved portion are exposed, and the reinforcement of the darts 2, 2 ', 2' 'is controlled by the reinforcing interlining 4. It was
【0012】 而して、服によってはかかる台芯や補強芯地にはフェルトやスレーキ等を用い て二重層,三重層の複層式の重合芯の態様が適宜に採用されている。[0012] Depending on the clothes, a double-layered or triple-layered multi-layered polymer core is appropriately used for such a core or reinforcing interlining by using felt, slake, or the like.
【0013】[0013]
ところで、前述した如く、洋服は二次元的な布地から三次元的な身体表面の凹 凸部,湾曲部に充分に倣って適合するフィット性を有し、ソフトなボリューム感 を呈するよう(逆にスリムに呈する態様も勿論ある)になされることが望まれる ところから、例えば、肩部,胸部,ウエスト部等の大サイズ,小サイズの湾曲部 をダーツ介して立体的に形成するには、当該芯地のダーツのサイズを大きくせざ るを得ず(勿論、小サイズの態様もある)、したがって、当然のことながら、該 ダーツ部やその周辺部の当該芯地の強度,剛性が低下し易くなって芯地本来の機 能を削減しかねないという欠点があった。 By the way, as described above, clothes have a fitting property that closely follows the concave and convex portions and curved portions of the three-dimensional body surface from the two-dimensional cloth, and has a soft volume feeling (conversely Since it is desired that the shape is slim, it is necessary to form a large-sized or small-sized curved portion such as a shoulder, a chest, and a waist in a three-dimensional manner through darts. There is no choice but to increase the size of the darts in the interlining (of course, there is also a mode of small size). Therefore, it is natural that the strength and rigidity of the interlining in the darts and its peripheral parts are lowered. It had the drawback that it could become easier and reduce the original functions of the interlining.
【0014】 又、婦人服のバストやウエスト,ヒップ部分等背部等に対しては前部,横部の 比較的狭い面積で大きな立体的なボリューム感のある凹凸をダーツにより、しか も、ソフトに、そのうえ、ナイーブでデリケートな曲面を生かして形成するには 当該ダーツの集積密度を多くしなければならず、その形成には煩瑣な複数の工程 を要し、加えて、相当な熟練を要するために人件費,資材費等が高く要すること からコストアップにつながるという不利点があり、しかも、仮止め縫い付けを広 くすることにより当該ダーツ部位に硬直感等が出てソフトでナイーブなシルエッ トを現出し難くなるという難点があり、更に、一定方向に所謂「逃げ」が生じ易 く、地の目が曲り易いデメリットがありパンクやエクボが出易く、そのうえ、ね じれ易いデメリットもあった。In addition, for the bust, waist, hips and other back of women's clothing, darts can be used to create unevenness with a large three-dimensional volume in a relatively narrow front and side area. In addition, in order to make use of a naive and delicate curved surface, it is necessary to increase the integration density of the darts, which requires a number of complicated steps and requires considerable skill. This has the disadvantage of increasing personnel costs and material costs, which leads to higher costs. Moreover, widening the temporary tack seams gives the darts a hard intuition and gives a soft and naive sillette. In addition, the so-called “escape” is likely to occur in a certain direction, and the ground has a tendency to bend easily, which easily causes punctures and ekubo. There was also a disadvantage that it was easy to get caught.
【0015】 特に、ダーツ2,2' ,2''の幅,サイズが大きい場合、当該ダーツ2,2' ,2''の先端部では立体曲面を呈するに、尖突状になってピラミッド型になりか ねず、好ましいドーム型やコーンケーブ型に成形し難く、ユーザの強いニーズに 応えられないという不具合もあった。In particular, when the width and size of the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ are large, the tip of the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ has a three-dimensional curved surface, and the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ have a pyramidal shape. As a result, it is difficult to mold into a preferable dome shape or cone cave shape, and there is also a problem that the strong needs of users cannot be met.
【0016】 而して、近時芯地素材においては各種の優れた物理性等を有する布地から成る 芯地本体を複数枚重合して接合層とする態様があり、これらの全ての芯地本体を 仮付け,縫い付けにより一体化するには引きつれ等の現象が生ずる(勿論、熟練 によりカバー可能ではあるが)ことから、所定の接着剤を介して相互接合する所 謂接着縫製の技術も案出されてはいるが、該種態様では接着剤の経時的乾燥,硬 化により表地と裏地とのマッチングにおいてソフト感が損われていく欠点があり 、不規則な小ピッチの褶曲状のしわが生じたり、肩バスを付ける時に肩先の位置 が不安定になり易く、所謂ぼこぼこした感触を生じて服地の風合を損うという不 都合さがある。[0016] Therefore, in the recent interlining material, there is a mode in which a plurality of interlining main bodies made of cloth having various excellent physical properties are polymerized to form a bonding layer, and all the interlining main bodies are used. Since a phenomenon such as a pull-up occurs when integrated by temporary attachment and sewing (although it can be covered by a person skilled in the art, of course), so-called adhesive stitching technology for mutually joining with a predetermined adhesive is also used. Although devised, this type of embodiment has a drawback that the soft feeling is impaired in matching the outer material and the inner material due to the time-dependent drying and hardening of the adhesive, resulting in an irregular small pitch fold. There is an inconvenience that it causes baldness and the position of the shoulder tip tends to become unstable when a shoulder bath is attached, resulting in a so-called uneven feeling and impairing the texture of the cloth.
【0017】 そして、スレーキを縫う時に歪が生じ易く、胸バスフェルトを付ける時に同じ く歪が生じ易く、逃げが生じ易く、結果的にボリューム感が不均一になるマイナ ス点もある。There is also a minor point that distortion is likely to occur when sewing a slake, distortion is likely to occur when a chest bus felt is applied, escape is likely to occur, and the volume feeling is non-uniform as a result.
【0018】 又、伝統的な毛芯縫製に代替するまでには技術改良がなされておらず、実縫製 にはなじまないというマイナス点もある。Further, there is a negative point that the technique is not improved until it is replaced with the traditional core sewing, and it is not suitable for actual sewing.
【0019】 このことは、紳士服,婦人服を問わず、洋服の前身頃,身返し,上衿部分につ いても同様であった。This was the same for the front body, the return, and the upper collar portion of the clothes regardless of men's clothes or women's clothes.
【0020】 このような肩部,バスト部分やウエスト,ヒップ部分のボリューム感を、しか も、身体のデリケートな線に倣って立体感をかもしだすファッション性等見栄え を極めて重要視する部分にとっては洋服全体のバランスの上からも商品価値に著 しく大きな影響を与える不具合があるものであり、特に、婦人服にとっては致命 的な重大な問題である。[0020] For the part where such a sense of volume of the shoulders, bust, waist and hips as well as the fashionableness that creates a three-dimensional effect by following the delicate lines of the body is extremely important This is a fatal and serious problem especially for women's clothing, because it has a problem that has a significant impact on the product value from the standpoint of the balance of items.
【0021】[0021]
この出願の考案の目的は上述従来技術に基づく洋服の肩,胸部分や胴回り部分 (フロント部分)等のサイズの大小を問わず、微妙な凹凸部,湾曲部を自然に現 出するに、そのシルエットを基本的に支配する芯地における凹凸部分の現出の問 題点を解決すべき技術的課題とし、芯地本来の強度,剛性,柔軟性を有する機能 を保持しながらも、表地や裏地に望ましい湾曲部を最適に与えて三次元曲面を有 する身体に対するフィット性を充分に保持し、ソフトでありながら充分な立体的 ボリューム感を適宜に所望に具備し、それに加えてドレスアップ性,柔軟な挙動 追従性を有し、ファッション性や格調高いオートクチュール性等をも具備するよ うにしてアパレル産業におけるデザイン技術利用分野に益する優れた洋服の芯地 構造を提供せんとするものである。 The purpose of the invention of this application is to make subtle unevenness and curved portions naturally appear regardless of the size of shoulder, chest, waist (front), etc. of clothes based on the above-mentioned conventional technique. The technical issue that should be solved is the appearance of irregularities in the interlining that basically controls the silhouette, and while maintaining the original strength, rigidity, and flexibility of the interlining, the outer material and lining are retained. The desired curved portion is optimally provided to adequately maintain fit to the body having a three-dimensional curved surface, and a soft and sufficient three-dimensional volume feeling is appropriately provided as desired. Flexible behavior It does not provide an excellent interlining structure for clothes that benefits the field of design technology use in the apparel industry by providing fashionability and dignified haute couture. It is intended to.
【0022】[0022]
上述目的に沿い先述実用新案登録請求の範囲を要旨とするこの出願の考案の構 成は、前述課題を解決するために、洋服を当該身体にマッチングする所定のデザ インに作製するに際し、その表地、もしくは、該表地、及び、裏地間に介装して 添設する芯地の前身頃,身返し,上衿部分,肩部,フロント部分(胴回り部分) 等の湾曲部やバストやウエスト等の凹凸部の立体形状を現出するに際し、身体の 曲線(曲面)に倣ってボリューム感があり、身体に対する充分なフィット性を有 し、ソフトでデリケートな形状を形成するように、縦横等所定方向の伸縮性を異 ならして有する等の所定の強度,剛性,柔軟性を有する台芯や補強芯等の芯地を 所定の接着剤の塗布,含浸等にて均一フラットに、又、ドット状,シンター(バ ラ)状,縞状や渦巻状に付与し、所謂凸面成形プレスや凹面成形プレスを用い、 予め形成したダーツを開いて真空引きによりセットし、ダーツをつまみ、接着芯 を重合し、台芯を鏝面に置き、該鏝やスチームアイロン等の加熱,加湿プレスを 介し肩ぐせ,ウエストダーツ等に対する凸面成形プレス,凹面成形プレスにより 単層、或いは、所定複層の重層状に接合添設させ、その際、設計によっては必要 に応じ芯地本体、或いは、補強芯に下地と共に所定の仮止めの縫い付けをも付与 するようにし、当該芯地本体の所望方向の伸縮等を介し下地と共にロール状のカ ールをも付与し得るようにして当該身体の凹凸部や湾曲部に充分になじむ曲面形 状を形成させ、次段工程の縫製による表地,裏地の縫製により設計通りの自然な 感触の三次元的シルエットを充分に有する洋服の服地とすることが出来るように した技術的手段を講じたものである。 In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the composition of the invention of this application, which has the above-mentioned purpose as a gist of the utility model registration claim, is made in order to solve the above-mentioned problems when the clothes are made in a predetermined design that matches the body. Or, the front body of the interlining, which is installed by being interposed between the outer material and the lining, the body part, the upper collar part, the shoulder part, the curved part such as the front part (girth part), the bust, the waist, etc. When revealing the three-dimensional shape of the unevenness, it has a volume feeling following the curve (curved surface) of the body, has a sufficient fit to the body, and forms a soft and delicate shape. It has uniform strength, rigidity, and flexibility such as having different elasticity, and the interlining such as a wick and a reinforcing core is made evenly flat by applying and impregnating a predetermined adhesive, and also in a dot shape. , Sinter (striped), striped, It is applied in the form of a roll, using a so-called convex molding press or concave molding press, open the darts that have been formed in advance and set by vacuuming, pinch the darts, polymerize the adhesive core, place the core on the trowel surface, Heating with a steam iron or steam iron, shoulder press through a humidifying press, convex forming press for waist darts, etc. by a convex forming press or concave forming press to attach it in a single layer or a predetermined multi-layered multi-layered form, at that time, depending on the design Depending on the situation, the interlining body or the reinforcing core is also sewn with a predetermined temporary tack together with the base, and the roll-shaped curl is also provided with the base through expansion and contraction of the interlining body in the desired direction. As a result, a curved surface shape is formed that conforms well to the concavo-convex and curved parts of the body, and the three-dimensional silhouette with a natural feel as designed is sewn by sewing the outer material and lining by sewing in the next step. It is intended that took technical means to be able to cloth of clothing with the minute.
【0023】[0023]
次に、この出願の考案の実施例を図1〜図8に基づいて説明すれば以下の通り である。 Next, an embodiment of the invention of this application will be described below with reference to FIGS.
【0024】 尚、図9と同一態様部分は同一符号を用いて説明するものとする。It should be noted that the same aspects as those in FIG. 9 will be described using the same reference numerals.
【0025】 図1〜図3に示す実施例はこの出願の考案の原理的態様であり、芯地を成す所 定の材質、例えば、ウール,ヘヤー,綿,レイヨン等の台芯1' のフロント部( 例えば、胴回り部分)に対し横方向に大きな伸縮性を有する所定材質、例えば、 ポリエステル,綿,レイヨン等の補強芯地5' が図1に示す様に、所定部位(当 該態様においては左右の縁部分)にポリアマイド等の所定の接着剤(ハッチング 図示)を介し仮付け、例えば、所謂ドットタイプ、或いは、シンタータイプで永 久接着式に接着されている。The embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 is a principle mode of the invention of the present application, and a certain material forming the interlining, for example, the front of the core 1'of wool, hair, cotton, rayon or the like. As shown in FIG. 1, a predetermined material having a large stretchability in the lateral direction with respect to a portion (for example, a waistline portion), for example, a reinforcing interlining 5'of polyester, cotton, rayon, etc. It is temporarily attached to the left and right edge portions) by a predetermined adhesive (hatching shown) such as polyamide, for example, a so-called dot type or sinter type permanent adhesive type.
【0026】 尚、設計によっては台芯1' に補強芯地5' を接着接合に併せてジグザグ状に 仮止めの縫い付け3,3をしておいても良い。Depending on the design, the reinforcing interlining 5'may be sewn 3 and 3 in a zigzag manner to the pedestal 1'in conjunction with adhesive bonding.
【0027】 尚、台芯1' には設計により所定のダーツ2,2''' が割設され、又、補強芯 地4が所定部位に所定部位に対応的に設けられるようにされている。By the way, predetermined darts 2 and 2 ′ ″ are separately provided in the base 1 ′ by design, and the reinforcing interlining 4 is provided in a predetermined portion corresponding to a predetermined portion. .
【0028】 而して、補強芯地5の台地1' に対する図2に示す添着に際しては両者間に接 着剤のポリアマイド等を介装するに際しては上述の如くドットタイプ、或いは、 シンタータイプに塗布、或いは、予め所定に含浸させて凸面成形プレスにあって は台芯1' を鏝面に置き、肩ぐせ等に合せてダーツ2,2''' を所定に開きバキ ュームによりセットし、当布、及び、接着芯を介して当該鏝、或いは、スチーム アイロン等により加熱接着(永久接着)Fがなされている。When the reinforcing interlining 5 is attached to the plateau 1 ′ as shown in FIG. 2, a dot type or a sinter type is applied as described above when interposing an adhesive such as polyamide. Or, in the case of a convex molding press which has been pre-impregnated with a predetermined amount, the core 1'is placed on the trowel surface, and the darts 2 and 2 '' 'are opened in accordance with the shoulder girth and set by the bag machine. Heat bonding (permanent bonding) F is performed with the iron or steam iron or the like through a cloth and an adhesive core.
【0029】 そして、凹面プレスでは肩バスをポイントに合わせてセットし、次いで、胸バ スも同様にセットし裾部分に特殊接着芯をセットし、次いで、胸バスの上に特殊 接着芯を重ねてプレスを行う。Then, in the concave press, set the shoulder bath to the point, then set the chest bus in the same way, set the special adhesive core on the hem, and then overlay the special adhesive core on the chest bus. And press.
【0030】 そのため、当該態様においては、例えば、縦方向に対し横方向の伸縮性が大き いようにされていることにより、該スチームアイロンによるプレスFによる加熱 接着後は横方向の熱収縮性が大きいために、当該補強芯地5' が台芯1' の裏側 に添着されている態様では当該フロント部(胴回り部)に於て外向きに突出状に カールし、三次元形状の身体の外向き突出状の湾曲形状になじんで充分なフィッ ト性が現出されることになる。Therefore, in this embodiment, for example, since the elasticity in the lateral direction is large with respect to the longitudinal direction, the heat shrinkability in the lateral direction after heat bonding by the press F with the steam iron is high. Due to its large size, in a mode in which the reinforcing interlining 5'is attached to the back side of the pedestal 1 ', it curls outwardly at the front part (girth part), and the outside of the three-dimensional body is curled. Sufficient fitting property will be exhibited by adapting to the curved shape of the protruding shape.
【0031】 又、図2に示す様に、ダーツ2,2''' はバキュームセットの状態でその周縁 を含めてつまみによる開き状態のダーツ寄せ後接着芯で重合固定して全面接合が 当該ダーツセット姿勢のままで行われることにより肩部,胸部等の立体的なボリ ューム感のあるシルエットが図3に示す様に、滑かに形成されることになる。Further, as shown in FIG. 2, the darts 2 and 2 ′ ″ are in the state of a vacuum set, including the periphery thereof, and are opened by the knob. As the set posture is maintained, a three-dimensional volumetric silhouette of the shoulders, chest, etc. is formed smoothly as shown in FIG.
【0032】 かかる原理的態様に沿う図4,図5,図6に示すシングル(又はダブル)タイ プの紳士用背広の洋服服地の芯地構造においては、台芯1のフロント部(胴回り 部分)のカール、及び、ラペル部分、即ち、上衿部分に於ては所謂はね防止につ いて丁度良い状態に、内側にロールして一方向にカールさせフィット性を良好に 付与するようにするべく、又、肩部の丸味を適宜に立体的に膨出するように、そ の表と裏側の所定の材質、例えば、ポリエステル,綿,レイヨン等を用い横方向 の伸縮を大きくし、又、フロント部分(胴回り部分)に於ても、そのフロントエ ッジに於てはピリング防止を図るべく、横方向の伸縮性の大きな所定の芯地5、 例えば、ポリエステル,綿,レイヨン等を用いてその左右縁部の仮止めの縫い付 け(不要にしても可)を施すと共に、凸面成形プレスを行うに台芯1を鏝面に置 き最初に肩ぐせを予め決められた量にダーツ2を開き、バキュームでセット、当 布テープ状の接着芯をその上、又は、下にセットし、補強芯地5,5' ,5,4 をドットタイプに接着剤含浸を介して接合し、この場合、補強芯地5' 、肩部7 の補強芯地4も接着剤を介して同じくドットタイプにて接合し、スチームアイロ ンにより加湿,加熱プレスを与え、上衿部分、即ち、ラペル部分のカールによる ロール化を図り、図5,図6に示す様に、ダーツ2,2' をつまみダーツ寄せを 行って接着芯8をドットタイプに接合し肩部7の丸味を出し、横向きに突出状に 湾曲を付与して逆反りを防止する形状にし、又、肩バスや胸バスに対する凹面成 形プレスも実質的に同様に行い、全体的に充分な立体的ボリューム感を付与し肩 部には身体に合った凹凸を与え、ソフトな風合を現出させる。In the interlining structure of the single (or double) type men's suit for clothing clothes shown in FIGS. 4, 5 and 6 according to the principle mode, the front part (the waist part) of the base 1 is used. Curl and lapel part, that is, in the upper collar part, in order to prevent so-called splashing, just roll it inward and curl in one direction to give good fit. Also, in order to appropriately swell the roundness of the shoulder part, use a predetermined material on the front and back sides, such as polyester, cotton, rayon, etc., to increase the lateral expansion and contraction. Even in the part (girth part), in order to prevent pilling in the front edge, a predetermined interlining 5 with large lateral stretch, for example, polyester, cotton, rayon, etc. Sewing of temporary fixing at the edge In addition to applying (if unnecessary), place the core 1 on the trowel surface to perform the convex molding press, first open the darts 2 with a predetermined amount of shoulder girth, set with vacuum, set with this cloth tape shape The adhesive core of the above is set above or below, and the reinforcing interlinings 5, 5 ', 5, 4 are joined in a dot type through adhesive impregnation, and in this case, the reinforcing interlining 5', shoulder 7 Similarly, the reinforcing interlining 4 of No. 1 is also joined by the dot type through the adhesive, and humidification by steam iron and heat press are applied to roll the upper collar portion, that is, the lapel portion by curling. As shown in 6, gripping the darts 2 and 2'and bringing the darts together to bond the adhesive core 8 to the dot type to make the shoulder 7 round, and to give a laterally protruding curve to prevent reverse warpage. Shaped, and the concave shaped press for shoulder and chest buses is practical Performed in the same manner, given the irregularities that matches the body to the shoulder to grant an overall sufficient three-dimensional sense of volume, thereby revealing a soft texture.
【0033】 当該実施例において、ポリアマイド等の接着剤は下地1と芯地5,5' の両者 間に塗布したり、或いは、各芯地5,5' にドットタイプ(永久タイプ)、或い は、シンタータイプ(仮接着タイプ)等で含浸させ、更には、横方向にストライ プ状、或いは、同心円状やスパイラル状に付与する等の設計態様が採用可能であ る。In this embodiment, an adhesive such as polyamide is applied between both the base 1 and the interlinings 5, 5 ′, or each interlining 5, 5 ′ is of dot type (permanent type), or Can be impregnated with a sinter type (temporary adhesive type) or the like, and further, can be applied in a laterally striped, concentric or spiral form.
【0034】 そして、台芯1の所定部位に形成するダーツ2,2' は所定サイズにし、補強 芯地4を肩補強芯、及び、胸補強芯として添着する。Then, the darts 2, 2 ′ formed at a predetermined portion of the base 1 have a predetermined size, and the reinforcing interlining 4 is attached as a shoulder reinforcing core and a chest reinforcing core.
【0035】 このようにして、上衿のラペル部分には、はね防止を充分付与し、逆反りをな くし、フロント部分(胴回り部分)には裾部分で立体性を付与し、肩部,胸部に は丸味を出させ、身体に倣ったボリューム感のあるソフトな立体感を付与する。In this way, the lapel portion of the upper collar is sufficiently prevented from splashing and reverse warpage is eliminated, and the front portion (girth portion) is provided with the three-dimensionality at the hem portion, and the shoulder portion, The chest is rounded, giving it a soft, three-dimensional appearance with a voluminous feel that mimics the body.
【0036】 次に、図7に示す実施例もダブル(或いは、シングル)タイプの背広の芯地構 造の態様であるが、実質的に上述実施例とは変りはないものである。Next, the embodiment shown in FIG. 7 also has a double (or single) type suiting interlining structure, but it is substantially the same as the above embodiment.
【0037】 而して、図8に示す実施例は婦人服(紳士服の態様も可)の洋服の服地の芯地 構造の態様であるが、当該実施例においては婦人服特有の凹凸部の多い、例えば 、バスト部分の立体的な柔和なボリューム感を当該婦人の好みに合せて(サイズ に合せて)現出するべく、上衿部分6とバスト部分、並びに、フロント部分(胴 回り)に横方向(設計によっては、斜め方向)の織目の伸縮を縦方向より大きく し、当該実施例においては補強芯5''、5''' 、及び、台芯1に対するポリアマ イド等の接着剤の塗布、或いは、含浸状態を同心円状、或いは、渦巻状、或いは 、スパイラル状に付与し、併せて、可及的に硬直感の縫い付けの生じないダーツ (婦人服では形状,量が紳士服の場合とは当然異なる)を所定に付与し、襟元か らバスト部分にかけて突出状でなく、ドーム状の豊満な(ナイーブな)バストの ボリューム感を現出し、しかも、ソフトなフィット性を身体のバスト部分に倣っ て一致するような風合を現出するようにする。Thus, the embodiment shown in FIG. 8 is an embodiment of the interlining structure of the clothing material of women's clothing (a men's clothing can be used). There are many, for example, three-dimensional soft and voluminous parts of the bust part, in order to bring out the appearance (to suit the size) of the lady in question (on the upper collar part 6 and the bust part, as well as the front part (waist)) Stretching of the weft in the transverse direction (oblique direction depending on the design) is made larger than that in the longitudinal direction, and in the present embodiment, an adhesive such as a polyamide to the reinforcing cores 5 '' and 5 '' 'and the core 1. Darts that are applied or impregnated with concentric circles, spirals, or spirals, and at the same time do not cause as hard and intuitive sewing as possible. (For women's clothing, the shape and amount are men's clothing. (Of course different from the case of It is not a projecting shape over the strike part, but a dome-like rich (naive) bust volume feeling, and yet a soft fit that matches the bust part of the body To
【0038】 尚、当該実施例においては服地の裾回りからヒップ部分にかけてのウエストに 起伏や凹凸曲面の絞りや膨みを付与する芯地構造を付与することも出来ることは 勿論のことである。In the embodiment, it is needless to say that an interlining structure for imparting undulations, squeezing of uneven curved surfaces, or swelling can be added to the waist from the hem of the clothes to the hips.
【0039】 尚、この出願の考案の実施態様は上述各実施例に限るものでないことは勿論で あり、例えば、身返し部分,やウエスト部分(特に、婦人服に於て),肩部分の 膨み現出の芯地構造にも採用可能である等種々の態様が採用可能である。Needless to say, the embodiment of the invention of the present application is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments, and for example, the swelling part, the waist part (particularly in women's clothing), and the shoulder part are inflated. Various modes such as being applicable to the exposed interlining structure can be adopted.
【0040】 又、紳士服のズボンの膝,腿部分の反復する屈伸挙動等による膨縮を予め防止 するべく、凹凸状の芯地構造を用いる場合にも適用可能である。It is also applicable to the case where an uneven interlining structure is used in order to prevent expansion and contraction due to repeated bending and stretching behavior of the knees and thighs of the pants of men's clothing in advance.
【0041】[0041]
以上、この出願の考案によれば、基本的に平面性の強い布地で三次元的凹凸形 状の身体を被覆する洋服の基本的形状を決定し、経時的に保持する芯地構造にお いて、台芯に対し補強芯地を添着するに、接着剤のドットタイプやシンタータイ プの塗布や含浸を介し接合するようにし、従来態様のミシンを介しての仮止めに よる硬直感が無く、その際のダーツのサイズの開きの相違により所望方向、或い は、三次元的な凹凸湾曲を付与し、接着によるナイーブな凹凸状が身体形状に中 実にフィット性を充分に付与し、立体的ボリューム感のあるソフトな風合の形状 を付与することが出来、又、上衿のはね防止や逆反り防止を図り、又、フロント 部分(胴回り部分)のロール性をカールにより予め服地に付与することも出来る ことから、そして、熟練不要で均一な曲面フィット性から洋服が三次元的身体形 状に充分なフィット性を有するボリューム感のあるソフトな風合を有するように することが出来、表地と裏地を一体化して装着した際の感触も毛芯製法のメリッ トを生かして良く、見栄えも充分で立体感が呈される洋服として何ら違和感がな い外観性の良さがかもし出されるという優れた効果が奏される。 As described above, according to the invention of this application, an interlining structure that basically determines the basic shape of clothes for covering a three-dimensional uneven body with a cloth having a strong flatness and retains it with time is provided. When attaching the reinforcing interlining to the core, the dot type of adhesive and the application or impregnation of the sinter type are used for joining, and there is no hard intuition due to temporary fixing using the sewing machine of the conventional mode. Depending on the difference in the size of the darts at the time, it gives a desired direction or a three-dimensional uneven curvature, and the naive uneven shape by adhesion gives a solid fit to the body shape sufficiently, and a three-dimensional volume A soft and soft texture can be added, and the upper collar is prevented from splashing and reverse warping is prevented. In addition, the roll property of the front part (girth part) is given to the cloth in advance by curling. Because you can also do that, It is possible to make the clothes have a soft texture with a volume feeling that has a sufficient fit to the three-dimensional body shape due to the uniform curve fit that requires no skill, and wears the outer material and lining in an integrated manner. The feel of the hair is made by making good use of the merit of the core manufacturing method, and it has the excellent effect of giving a good appearance without any discomfort as clothes that look good and have a three-dimensional appearance.
【0042】 更に、ダーツに対して接着剤が全面均一に、或いは、選択的に部分的に塗布、 ,含浸,パターン化させて介在させるため、接着剤の介装態様により身体の線や 曲面のデリケートな部分に忠実に倣い、或いは、意図的にデザイン化出来、意匠 性を多様化出来るという優れた効果が奏される。Further, since the adhesive is uniformly or entirely applied to the darts, or selectively and partially applied, impregnated, and patterned, the darts can be formed by interposing the adhesive so that a line or a curved surface of the body is formed. The excellent effect that the design can be diversified by faithfully following the delicate part or by intentionally designing the part is achieved.
【0043】 そして、縫製設計により仮止めと併用することにより接着と毛芯製縫の利点を 併用することが出来るという効果もある。There is also an effect that the advantages of adhesion and hair core sewing can be used together by using the temporary design together with the sewing design.
【0044】 かかる洋服はスーツ,ジャケット,コートの衿部分やフロント部(胴回り部分 ),肩部,胸部のソフトなボリューム感,婦人服のバスト,ウエスト,ヒップ部 分の滑かなデリケートでナイーブなボリューム感を充分に強調し、美栄えも良く ファッション性も充分で活動に伴う挙動性も充分なものとしても商品価値を高め ることが出来るという優れた効果が奏される。Such clothes have a soft volume feeling on the collar and front (the waist) of the suit, jacket and coat, shoulders and chest, and the delicate and naive volume of the bust, waist and hips of women's clothing. It has the excellent effect of enhancing the commercial value by fully emphasizing the feeling, good appearance, good fashionability, and sufficient behavior in accordance with activities.
【0045】 このようにして、従来より単調なアパレル産業に大きな刺激を与えて業者の購 買意欲を向上させることが出来るという利点もあり、又、ミシン台数を減少させ ることが出来ることから熟練工の減数を図り省略化を促進し、コストダウンを図 ることが出来るというメリットもある。In this way, there is an advantage that it can stimulate the apparel industry, which is more monotonous than before, and the motivation of the buyer to purchase, and the number of sewing machines can be reduced. There is also the merit that it is possible to reduce the cost, promote the omission, and reduce the cost.
【0046】 又、縫製に際しても鏝やスチームアイロン等による加湿,加熱プレスが用いら れ、かかるアイロンプレスは在来工程と変らないために、特に、工程数が増える ことはなく、コスト的にも著しくアップすることがないという利点もある。Further, when sewing, a humidifying and heating press using a trowel or a steam iron is used. Since such an iron press is the same as the conventional process, the number of processes is not particularly increased and the cost is also reduced. There is also an advantage that it does not significantly increase.
【図1】この出願の考案の原理的実施例の態様の模式斜
視図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective view of an embodiment of the principle embodiment of the device of the present application.
【図2】同、台芯と補強芯地の接合斜視図である。FIG. 2 is a perspective view showing the joint between the core and the reinforcing interlining.
【図3】台芯に対する補強芯地の取り合い斜視図であ
る。FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a reinforcing interlining with respect to a core.
【図4】紳士服のシングル(ダブル)タイプの背広の芯
地構造の実施例の模式斜視図である。FIG. 4 is a schematic perspective view of an embodiment of an interlining structure of a suit of a men's clothing single (double) type.
【図5】ダーツ処理の模式図である。FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of darts processing.
【図6】ダーツ処理の模式図である。FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of darts processing.
【図7】同、紳士服のダブル(シングル)タイプの背広
の芯地構造の模式斜視図である。FIG. 7 is a schematic perspective view of an interlining structure for a suit of a men's clothing double (single) type.
【図8】婦人服の芯地構造の模式斜視図である。FIG. 8 is a schematic perspective view of an interlining structure of women's clothing.
【図9】従来技術に基づく芯地構造の模式平面図であ
る。FIG. 9 is a schematic plan view of an interlining structure based on a conventional technique.
1 台芯 5,5' 補強芯地 1 core 5,5 'Reinforced interlining
Claims (9)
を含む複数層の芯地素材の相互層が一体的に接合されて
いる洋服の芯地構造において、各芯地素材相互が接着剤
を介して非平面的に重合式に接合されていることを特徴
とする洋服の芯地構造。1. In an interlining structure of clothes in which a plurality of interlining layers of interlining materials including a darts portion are interposed integrally between an outer material and a lining, each interlining material is bonded to each other. An interlining structure for clothes, which is non-planarly polymer-bonded through an agent.
ともいずれか一方を介して行われてあることを特徴とす
る実用新案登録請求の範囲第1項記載の洋服の芯地構
造。2. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the joining is performed through at least one of a heating press and a humidifying press.
は、含浸の少くとも一方により介装されていることを特
徴とする実用新案登録請求の範囲第1項記載の洋服の芯
地構造。3. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the adhesive is applied to the interlining material by at least one of coating and impregnation. .
けされていることを特徴とする実用新案登録請求の範囲
第1項記載の洋服の芯地構造。4. An interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the interlining materials are temporarily sewn together with a thread.
ことを特徴とする実用新案登録請求の範囲第1項記載の
洋服の芯地構造。5. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the direction of expansion and contraction of the interlining material is different for each layer.
ター状に形成されていることを特徴とする実用新案登録
請求の範囲第1項記載の洋服の芯地構造。6. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the interposition of the adhesive is formed in a dot shape or a sinter shape.
れていることを特徴とする実用新案登録請求の範囲第1
項記載の洋服の芯地構造。7. A utility model registration claim characterized in that the interposition of the adhesive is formed in a stripe shape.
Interlining structure of clothes according to item.
ンター(バラ状)に形成されていることを特徴とする実
用新案登録請求の範囲第7項記載の洋服の芯地構造。8. The interlining structure for clothes as claimed in claim 7, wherein the interposition of the adhesive is formed in a concentric circle shape or a sinter (separate shape).
状に形成されていることを特徴とする実用新案登録請求
の範囲第7項記載の洋服の芯地構造。9. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 7, wherein the interposition of the adhesive is concentric or spiral.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP2959093U JPH0683728U (en) | 1993-05-11 | 1993-05-11 | Interlining structure of clothes |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP2959093U JPH0683728U (en) | 1993-05-11 | 1993-05-11 | Interlining structure of clothes |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPH0683728U true JPH0683728U (en) | 1994-11-29 |
Family
ID=12280294
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP2959093U Pending JPH0683728U (en) | 1993-05-11 | 1993-05-11 | Interlining structure of clothes |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPH0683728U (en) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2003239131A (en) * | 2002-02-15 | 2003-08-27 | Tatsuro Nakajima | Sewing method for sewn product |
CN112471648A (en) * | 2020-11-23 | 2021-03-12 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing three-dimensional lapel of western-style clothes |
Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS4924402B1 (en) * | 1970-06-18 | 1974-06-22 | ||
JPS4970743A (en) * | 1972-11-09 | 1974-07-09 | ||
JPS60173104A (en) * | 1984-02-15 | 1985-09-06 | 株式会社センイ綜合研究所 | Breast increase core in suits |
JPS6262902A (en) * | 1985-09-12 | 1987-03-19 | 日本バイリ−ン株式会社 | Adhesive core cloth |
JPS63135571A (en) * | 1986-11-25 | 1988-06-07 | 金井 宏之 | Adhesive core cloth |
JPH0647322B2 (en) * | 1986-08-29 | 1994-06-22 | コンビ株式会社 | Stopper mechanism of caster in baby car |
-
1993
- 1993-05-11 JP JP2959093U patent/JPH0683728U/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS4924402B1 (en) * | 1970-06-18 | 1974-06-22 | ||
JPS4970743A (en) * | 1972-11-09 | 1974-07-09 | ||
JPS60173104A (en) * | 1984-02-15 | 1985-09-06 | 株式会社センイ綜合研究所 | Breast increase core in suits |
JPS6262902A (en) * | 1985-09-12 | 1987-03-19 | 日本バイリ−ン株式会社 | Adhesive core cloth |
JPH0647322B2 (en) * | 1986-08-29 | 1994-06-22 | コンビ株式会社 | Stopper mechanism of caster in baby car |
JPS63135571A (en) * | 1986-11-25 | 1988-06-07 | 金井 宏之 | Adhesive core cloth |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2003239131A (en) * | 2002-02-15 | 2003-08-27 | Tatsuro Nakajima | Sewing method for sewn product |
CN112471648A (en) * | 2020-11-23 | 2021-03-12 | 蓝豹股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing three-dimensional lapel of western-style clothes |
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