JPH0441716A - Thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under ordinary pressure and woven or knitted fabric composed thereof - Google Patents
Thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under ordinary pressure and woven or knitted fabric composed thereofInfo
- Publication number
- JPH0441716A JPH0441716A JP14507490A JP14507490A JPH0441716A JP H0441716 A JPH0441716 A JP H0441716A JP 14507490 A JP14507490 A JP 14507490A JP 14507490 A JP14507490 A JP 14507490A JP H0441716 A JPH0441716 A JP H0441716A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- polyester
- thick
- yarn
- woven
- thin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 91
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 36
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 abstract description 31
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 29
- -1 aromatic dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 22
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 12
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 11
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 11
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 9
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 8
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 7
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 6
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000012467 final product Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 5
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 5
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzene Chemical compound C1=CC=CC=C1 UHOVQNZJYSORNB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000007605 air drying Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 3
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920001634 Copolyester Polymers 0.000 description 2
- FUJCRWPEOMXPAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Li2O Inorganic materials [Li+].[Li+].[O-2] FUJCRWPEOMXPAD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 206010028347 Muscle twitching Diseases 0.000 description 2
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N antimony trioxide Chemical compound O=[Sb]O[Sb]=O ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- RCJVRSBWZCNNQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N dichloridooxygen Chemical compound ClOCl RCJVRSBWZCNNQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XUCJHNOBJLKZNU-UHFFFAOYSA-M dilithium;hydroxide Chemical compound [Li+].[Li+].[OH-] XUCJHNOBJLKZNU-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 2
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 description 2
- BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonanedioic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCC(O)=O BDJRBEYXGGNYIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000006864 oxidative decomposition reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000002989 phenols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 description 2
- IBBQVGDGTMTZRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium;2-sulfobenzene-1,3-dicarboxylic acid Chemical compound [Na].OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1S(O)(=O)=O IBBQVGDGTMTZRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- ARCGXLSVLAOJQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimellitic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C(C(O)=O)=C1 ARCGXLSVLAOJQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 description 2
- FRRIJIONUFQFSM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-phenoxyethoxybenzene Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1OC(C)OC1=CC=CC=C1 FRRIJIONUFQFSM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QSRJVOOOWGXUDY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propanoyloxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethyl 3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C1=C(O)C(C)=CC(CCC(=O)OCCOCCOCCOC(=O)CCC=2C=C(C(O)=C(C)C=2)C(C)(C)C)=C1 QSRJVOOOWGXUDY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WPMYUUITDBHVQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 3-(3,5-ditert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C1=CC(CCC([O-])=O)=CC(C(C)(C)C)=C1O WPMYUUITDBHVQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- XDTMQSROBMDMFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Cyclohexane Chemical compound C1CCCCC1 XDTMQSROBMDMFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OWYWGLHRNBIFJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ipazine Chemical compound CCN(CC)C1=NC(Cl)=NC(NC(C)C)=N1 OWYWGLHRNBIFJP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M Propionate Chemical compound CCC([O-])=O XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical compound [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZJCCRDAZUWHFQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Trimethylolpropane Chemical compound CCC(CO)(CO)CO ZJCCRDAZUWHFQH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BGYHLZZASRKEJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N [3-[3-(3,5-ditert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoyloxy]-2,2-bis[3-(3,5-ditert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoyloxymethyl]propyl] 3-(3,5-ditert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C1=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=CC(CCC(=O)OCC(COC(=O)CCC=2C=C(C(O)=C(C=2)C(C)(C)C)C(C)(C)C)(COC(=O)CCC=2C=C(C(O)=C(C=2)C(C)(C)C)C(C)(C)C)COC(=O)CCC=2C=C(C(O)=C(C=2)C(C)(C)C)C(C)(C)C)=C1 BGYHLZZASRKEJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000147 aluminium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- QPKOBORKPHRBPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bis(2-hydroxyethyl) terephthalate Chemical compound OCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(=O)OCCO)C=C1 QPKOBORKPHRBPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KGBXLFKZBHKPEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N boric acid Chemical compound OB(O)O KGBXLFKZBHKPEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004327 boric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006085 branching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012459 cleaning agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940011182 cobalt acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QAHREYKOYSIQPH-UHFFFAOYSA-L cobalt(II) acetate Chemical compound [Co+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O QAHREYKOYSIQPH-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000013065 commercial product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011109 contamination Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000006866 deterioration Effects 0.000 description 1
- GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L dithionite(2-) Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O GRWZHXKQBITJKP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005562 fading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003063 flame retardant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000691 measurement method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002074 melt spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N neopentyl glycol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)CO SLCVBVWXLSEKPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SSDSCDGVMJFTEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecyl 3-(3,5-ditert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCC1=CC(C(C)(C)C)=C(O)C(C(C)(C)C)=C1 SSDSCDGVMJFTEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical compound OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenol group Chemical group C1(=CC=CC=C1)O ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000021395 porridge Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000002265 prevention Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000376 reactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002441 reversible effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000003944 tolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Spinning Methods And Devices For Manufacturing Artificial Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
[産業上の利用分野コ
本発明は常圧可染性ポリエステルからなり取扱が容易で
あって、なおかつ新規な外観および触感を存する織編物
の一部を構成する糸条として好適なポリエステル太細糸
に関する。Detailed Description of the Invention [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a yarn constituting a part of a woven or knitted fabric, which is made of atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester, is easy to handle, and has a novel appearance and feel. This invention relates to a polyester thick and thin yarn suitable for use as a polyester yarn.
さらに詳しくは鎖糸と天然繊維を混用することにより天
然繊維の持つ質感を生かしつつシャリ味のあるカスリ調
風合を有することが可能なポリエステル太細糸に関する
。More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester thick and thin yarn that can have a crisp, kasuri-like texture while taking advantage of the texture of natural fibers by using a mixture of chain yarn and natural fibers.
[従来の技術]
ポリエステル未延伸糸を不完全に延伸することにより大
細糸を得ることは特公昭51−7207号公報や特開昭
58−70711号公報により知られている。ポリエス
テル太細糸は太い部分が細い部分よりも濃く染まるため
に織編物にすると斑状の模様を呈し、これがポリエステ
ル太細糸の1つの特徴となっている。[Prior Art] It is known from Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-7207 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-70711 that large fine yarns can be obtained by incompletely drawing undrawn polyester yarns. The thicker parts of polyester threads are dyed darker than the thinner parts, so when they are made into woven or knitted fabrics, they exhibit a mottled pattern, which is one of the characteristics of polyester threads.
この斑状の模様をコントロールする技術の1つとして共
重合ポリエステルを用い、太細糸の太い部分と細い部分
の濃淡差をコントロールする技術が特開昭59−921
5号公報、特開昭61−231220号公報、特開昭6
2−85024号公報により知られている。これらは共
重合第三成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸
等のスルホン酸金属塩基を含有したジカルボン酸を用い
たカチオン可染糸とするものである。しかしながらこれ
らの共重合ポリエステルは強度や伸度の点でホモポリエ
ステルを用いた太細糸と大きく異なるため用途の限界が
余儀なくされていた。One of the techniques to control this mottled pattern is to use copolymerized polyester to control the difference in shading between the thick and thin parts of thick and thin threads.
No. 5, JP-A-61-231220, JP-A-6
It is known from the publication No. 2-85024. These are cationically dyeable yarns using a dicarboxylic acid containing a sulfonic acid metal base such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as the third copolymerization component. However, these copolymerized polyesters are significantly different from thick and thin yarns using homopolyesters in terms of strength and elongation, so their uses have been limited.
他方ポリエステル繊維と天然繊維の混用技術については
、ポリエステル繊維に高染色性を付与して天然繊維との
同色性を得ようとする技術が数多く提案されている。例
えばナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を5モル%(8重量
%)以上共重合したカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルが
、特開昭61−34022、特開昭6O−2411i8
47 、特開昭60−88190各号公報などに開示さ
れている。On the other hand, regarding techniques for mixing polyester fibers and natural fibers, many techniques have been proposed for imparting high dyeability to polyester fibers to obtain the same color property as natural fibers. For example, cationic dye-dyable polyesters copolymerized with 5 mol% (8% by weight) or more of sodium sulfoisophthalic acid are JP-A-61-34022 and JP-A-6O-2411i8.
47, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 60-88190, etc.
また、5000〜8000 I/分の高速紡糸により繊
維内部構造をかえた易染性ポリエステル繊維が、たとえ
ば、特開昭59−59911、特開昭58−13739
各号公報などに開示されている。In addition, easily dyeable polyester fibers whose internal structure has been changed by high-speed spinning of 5000 to 8000 I/min are disclosed in, for example, JP-A-59-59911 and JP-A-58-13739.
It is disclosed in various publications.
さらに、芳香族ジカルボン酸や脂肪族ジカルボン酸或い
は脂肪族ジオールを共重合させた易染性ポリエステル繊
維が、たとえば、特開昭51−13032、特開昭57
−30169各号公報などに開示されている。Furthermore, easily dyeable polyester fibers copolymerized with aromatic dicarboxylic acids, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, or aliphatic diols are available, for example, in JP-A-51-13032 and JP-A-57.
-30169 publications, etc.
しかしながら、ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を共重合
したカチオン染料可染型ポリエステルは、染色性は高め
られるものの、糸強度が低い、バルキー性に欠ける、風
合いにふくらみ感がない、耐熱性が乏しい、嵩高加工が
実質的には適用できない、耐薬品性が乏しい、カチオン
染料の耐光堅牢度が乏しい、カチオン染料の染色機への
汚染が大きい等の問題がある。However, although cationic dye-dyeable polyester copolymerized with sodium sulfoisophthalic acid has improved dyeability, it has low yarn strength, lacks bulkiness, lacks a sense of fullness, poor heat resistance, and is difficult to process in bulk. There are problems such as practically no applicability, poor chemical resistance, poor light fastness of cationic dyes, and large contamination of dyeing machines with cationic dyes.
また、高速紡糸による易染性ポリエステル繊維は従来の
ポリエステル繊維にくらべて染色性は向上するものの、
完全な常圧可染とはいいがたく、濃色に染色するには1
10〜120℃の染色温度が必要であり、かつ原糸の収
縮率が低いため寸法安定性に欠ける、風合いに締り感が
乏しい、目ずれの欠点が生じやすい、細繊度糸の製糸が
困難である、過大な製糸設備が必要である等の問題があ
る。In addition, although easily dyeable polyester fibers produced by high-speed spinning have improved dyeability compared to conventional polyester fibers,
It cannot be said that it is completely dyeable under normal pressure, but to dye it in a deep color, 1
A dyeing temperature of 10 to 120°C is required, and the shrinkage rate of the raw yarn is low, so it lacks dimensional stability, lacks a tight texture, tends to have mesh misalignment, and is difficult to spin into fine yarn. There are some problems, such as the need for excessively large silk spinning equipment.
芳香族ジカルボン酸や脂肪族ジカルボン酸あるいは脂肪
族ジオールを共重合させた易染性ポリエステル繊維は、
常圧可染化に近づくものの、問題点も多くなる。Easy-to-dye polyester fibers copolymerized with aromatic dicarboxylic acids, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, or aliphatic diols are
Although it is getting closer to becoming dyeable under normal pressure, there are many problems.
例えば、アジピン酸、セバシン酸、アゼライン酸等の脂
肪族ジカルボン酸を共重合したポリエステルは、耐熱性
が低くなり、耐光堅牢度が大幅に低下する。黄化着色が
大きいなどの問題がある。また、脂肪族ジオールのうち
、ブタンジオール、ネオペンチルグリコール、シクロヘ
キサンジメタツール、ポリテトラメチレングリコール等
を共重合したポリエステルや、イソフタル酸、1.2−
ビス(フェノキシ)エタン4.4′ジカルボン酸等の芳
香族ジカルボン酸を共重合したポリエステルでは、常圧
可染とするには共重合率を15重量%以上とする必要が
あり、そのために、原糸強度の低下、耐光性の低下、黄
化着色、製糸性不良等の問題がある。For example, polyesters copolymerized with aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid, and azelaic acid have low heat resistance and significantly lower light fastness. There are problems such as large yellowing and discoloration. Among aliphatic diols, polyesters copolymerized with butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane dimetatool, polytetramethylene glycol, etc., isophthalic acid, 1.2-
For polyester copolymerized with aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as bis(phenoxy)ethane 4.4' dicarboxylic acid, the copolymerization rate must be 15% by weight or more to make it dyeable under normal pressure. There are problems such as a decrease in yarn strength, a decrease in light resistance, yellowing, and poor spinning properties.
その点、脂肪族ジオールの中でポリエチレングリコール
を共重合したポリエステルは共重合率を低くしても常圧
可染性になるためこの技術分厨においも最も有力な手段
といえる。この技術については特開昭53−78383
号公報や特開昭53−78384号公報にウールとの、
また特開昭63−235536号公報に絹との混用につ
いて開示されている。しかしながら、これらの技術は単
に天然繊維の質感とポリエステル繊維の持つ強度、耐久
性を合せ持つ織編物を提供するにとどまっており、本発
明の目的とする天然繊維の持つ質感を生かしつつ新規な
外観および触感を有する織編物は実現できていないのが
実状であった。In this respect, polyester obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene glycol among aliphatic diols can be dyed under normal pressure even at a low copolymerization rate, so it can be said to be the most effective means in this technical field. Regarding this technology, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 53-78383
No. 53-78384 and Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 53-78384, with wool,
Furthermore, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 63-235536 discloses the use of the mixture with silk. However, these techniques merely provide woven and knitted fabrics that have the texture of natural fibers and the strength and durability of polyester fibers, and the aim of the present invention is to provide woven and knitted fabrics that have the texture of natural fibers while creating a new appearance. The reality is that a woven or knitted fabric with a tactile feel has not been realized.
[発明が解決しようとする課題]
すなわち、本発明の目的は常圧可染性ポリエステルから
なり取扱が容易であって、なおかつ新規な外観および触
感を有する織編物の一部を構成する糸条として好適なポ
リエステル太細糸を提供することであり、さらに詳しく
は鎖糸と天然繊維を混用することにより天然繊維の持つ
質感を生かしつつシャリ味のあるカスリ調風合を有する
織編物とすることが可能なポリエステル太細糸を提供す
ることである。[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] That is, the object of the present invention is to provide a yarn constituting a part of a woven or knitted fabric that is made of atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester, is easy to handle, and has a novel appearance and feel. The purpose is to provide a suitable polyester thick and thin yarn, and more specifically, by mixing chain yarn and natural fiber, it is possible to make a woven or knitted fabric that has a crisp Kasuri-like texture while taking advantage of the texture of the natural fiber. The object of the present invention is to provide a polyester thick and thin yarn that is possible.
[課題を解決するだめの手段]
前記した本発明の目的は、強度が2.8g/d以上、伸
度が50%以上でU%値が3〜15%の太細を有し、9
8℃染色時の黒色明度が17%以下であるポリエステル
マルチフィラメントであって、該ポリエステルが平均分
子量500〜3000のポリエチレングリコールを6.
0〜10重量%共重合したことを特徴とした常圧可染性
ポリエステル太細糸により達成できる。[Means for Solving the Problems] The object of the present invention is to have a strength of 2.8 g/d or more, an elongation of 50% or more, and a U% value of 3 to 15%.
A polyester multifilament having a black brightness of 17% or less when dyed at 8°C, the polyester containing polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 3,000.
This can be achieved by using a thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under normal pressure characterized by copolymerization of 0 to 10% by weight.
本発明における常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸は、ポリ
エステル太細糸の98℃染色時の黒色明度(以下L98
という)が17%以下であるものをいう。L98が17
%を越える場合には、98℃で染色した時の発色性が不
十分である。なお、L98と130℃染色時の黒色明度
(以下L130という)との差は1.0%以下であるこ
とが望ましい。The atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn in the present invention has a black lightness (hereinafter referred to as L98) when the polyester thick and thin yarn is dyed at 98°C.
) is 17% or less. L98 is 17
%, the color development when dyeing at 98°C is insufficient. Note that it is desirable that the difference between L98 and the black brightness upon dyeing at 130° C. (hereinafter referred to as L130) be 1.0% or less.
その理由は以下のとおりである。すなわち、L98とL
i2Oとの差が[,0%以内であるということは98℃
染色により、その繊維の染着能は完全に飽和していると
いうことであり、大量の被染色物を染色した場合等にお
いて多少の染色条件の変化があっても、染め上りは98
℃染色品と変らず同一程度の染色物を生産でき、好まし
いからである。またポリエステル太細糸は太い部分と細
い部分とで染色性が異なるが、本発明における常圧可染
性ポリエステル太細糸は太い部分と細い部分の両方が常
圧可染性を有する必要がある。なお、L9gとLi2O
の測定方法に関しては後述する。The reason is as follows. That is, L98 and L
If the difference from i2O is within [,0%, it means 98℃
After dyeing, the dyeing ability of the fiber is completely saturated, and even if there are slight changes in the dyeing conditions, such as when dyeing a large amount of material, the finished dyeing will be 98%.
This is because dyed products of the same quality as those dyed at °C can be produced, which is preferable. In addition, the dyeability of polyester thick and thin yarn differs between the thick and thin portions, but the normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn in the present invention needs to have both the thick and thin portions dyeable. . In addition, L9g and Li2O
The method for measuring will be described later.
本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸は糸長手方向に
太細を有し、その太細ムラの程度は後述するU%値測定
方法で測定して3〜15%の範囲にある必要がある。U
%値が3%未満であると染色による濃淡差が小さく本発
明の目的とするシャリ味のあるカスリ調風合を有する織
編物を得ることは不可能となる。なお、本発明の常圧可
染性ポリエステル太細糸と天然繊維を混繊または合糸、
合撚して使用する場合等には、U%値が5%以上になる
とふくらみ感のある織編物が得られるため好ましい。他
方U%値が15%を越えた場合は、太い部分の割合が大
きくなりすぎて、カスリ調と呼べる範噴から外れ商品価
値を低下させてしまうので本発明の目的とする織編物は
得られない。The normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and fine yarn of the present invention has thick and thin lines in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and the degree of thick and thin unevenness must be in the range of 3 to 15% as measured by the U% value measuring method described below. There is. U
If the percentage value is less than 3%, the difference in shade due to dyeing will be small and it will be impossible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a crisp, kasuri-like texture, which is the object of the present invention. In addition, the normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and fine yarn of the present invention and natural fibers may be blended or combined,
When used in combination and twisting, it is preferable that the U% value is 5% or more because a woven or knitted fabric with a fluffy feel can be obtained. On the other hand, if the U% value exceeds 15%, the proportion of the thick portion becomes too large and the product value falls outside of the range that can be called a kasuri style, so that the woven or knitted fabric that is the object of the present invention cannot be obtained. do not have.
本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸の特徴は、共重
合ポリエステルによる大細糸であるにもかかわらず強度
および伸度はホモポリエステルによる太細重亜みである
点である。強度および伸度をホモポリエステルによる太
細重亜みとすることにより、太細糸に対して行われる仮
撚加工等の高次加工を施すことが可能となる。The feature of the pressure-dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention is that although it is a large and thin yarn made of copolymerized polyester, its strength and elongation are similar to that of homopolyester. By making the strength and elongation similar to that of homopolyester, it becomes possible to perform high-order processing such as false twisting on thick and thin yarns.
実際には常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸の強度が2.8
g/d以上、伸度が50%以上である必要がある。強
度または伸度がこの範囲外である場合は、仮撚加工等の
高次加工通過性が劣り、実用に耐えない。なお伸度が5
5%以上である場合、高次加工通過性が極めて良好とな
り好ましい。In reality, the strength of normal pressure dyeable polyester thick thread is 2.8.
g/d or higher and elongation of 50% or higher. When the strength or elongation is outside this range, the passability through higher processing such as false twisting is poor, and the material is not suitable for practical use. In addition, the elongation is 5
When it is 5% or more, the passability through higher-order processing becomes extremely good, which is preferable.
また強度が3.0g/d以上の場合は毛羽などの発生が
極めて少なくなり、最終製品である織編物の表面品位が
極めて良好となって好ましい。In addition, when the strength is 3.0 g/d or more, the generation of fuzz and the like is extremely reduced, and the surface quality of the final woven or knitted product is extremely good, which is preferable.
なお強度および伸度の測定方法については後述する。Note that methods for measuring strength and elongation will be described later.
本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸に用いる常圧可
染性ポリエステルは、平均分子量500〜3000のポ
リエチレングリコールを6.0〜10重量%共重合した
ものでなければならない。平均分子量が500未満の場
合には、ポリエステルの重合時に添加したポリエチレン
グリコールの一部が高温減圧の反応条件で飛散したポリ
エステル中へのポリエチレングリコールの共重合率が一
定化しないため、得られたポリエステル太細糸の強伸度
、収縮率等の物性にバラツキを生じさせた工程通過性を
悪化させたり最終製品の欠点となったりする。また50
0未満の低分子量のポリエチレングリコールを共重合し
て染色性の向上をはかるためには、高分子量のものに比
較してかなり共重合モル数を多くする必要があり、この
ため得られたポリエステルの軟化点が低下し、最終的に
得られる製品の品位が低下する。The atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester used for the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention must be a copolymer of 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 500 to 3,000. When the average molecular weight is less than 500, a part of the polyethylene glycol added during polyester polymerization is dispersed under high temperature and reduced pressure reaction conditions, and the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol in the polyester is not constant, so the obtained polyester This causes variations in physical properties such as strength and elongation, shrinkage rate, etc. of thick and thin yarns, which worsens the passability of the process and causes defects in the final product. 50 again
In order to copolymerize polyethylene glycol with a low molecular weight of less than 0 to improve dyeability, it is necessary to increase the number of moles of copolymerization considerably compared to polyethylene glycol with a high molecular weight. The softening point decreases and the quality of the final product decreases.
一方、平均分子量が3000を越えるポリエチレングリ
コールを使用した場合には、ポリエステル中に共重合さ
れない高分子量が増大するため染色性が低下するばかり
でなく、染色後の布帛を熱処理した際に染料がブリード
アウトしたり、耐光性、特に太細糸における大部の耐光
堅牢度が低下するなど、種々の染色堅牢性の低下を引き
起こす。On the other hand, when polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight exceeding 3000 is used, the dyeability not only decreases due to the increase in the high molecular weight that is not copolymerized in the polyester, but also the dye bleeds when the fabric is heat treated after dyeing. This causes various kinds of deterioration in color fastness, such as bleed-out and light fastness, especially in most of thick and thin yarns.
また、ポリエチレングリコールの共重合率が6.0重量
%未満では、染色性が不十分であり、常圧可染性は得ら
れない。一方、10重量%を越える場合は染色性が高す
ぎて目的とする風合が得られないのみならず太細糸の強
度が低下して高次加工通過性が極めて悪くなる。また耐
光堅牢性が低下し、最終製品が低下する。Further, if the copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol is less than 6.0% by weight, dyeability is insufficient and normal pressure dyeability cannot be obtained. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10% by weight, the dyeability is so high that not only the desired texture cannot be obtained, but also the strength of the thick and thin yarn decreases, making it extremely difficult to pass through higher processing. Also, the light fastness is reduced and the final product deteriorates.
なお、ポリエチレングリコールをポリエステルに共重合
するため、通常のポリエステルに比較して耐酸化分解性
が低下する傾向があるため、これを改善するためにポリ
エステル中に抗酸化剤を配合することが好ましく行なわ
れる。Furthermore, since polyethylene glycol is copolymerized with polyester, it tends to have lower oxidative decomposition resistance than normal polyester, so it is preferable to incorporate an antioxidant into the polyester to improve this. It will be done.
好ましい抗酸化剤としては、たとえばフエノル系水酸基
の隣接位置に立体障害を有する置換基を持つフェノール
誘導体であるヒンダードフェノール系化合物をあげるこ
とができる。ヒンダードフェノール系化合物の代表例と
しては、1.3.5−トリメチル−2,4,6−トリ(
3,5−ジーtertブチルフェノール)、2.6−シ
ーtertブチル−p−クレゾール、トリエチレングリ
コール−ビス[3−(3−tertブチル5−メチル4
−ヒドロキシフェニル)プロピオネート]、1.6−ヘ
キサンシオールービス[3−(3,5−ジーtertブ
チルー4−ヒドロキシフェニル)プロピオネート、ペン
タエリスリチル−テトラキス[3−(3゜5−ジーte
rtブチルー4−ヒドロキシフェニル)プロピオネート
、オクタデシル−3−(3,5−ジーtertブチルー
4−ヒドロキシフェニル)プロピオネート、3,5−ジ
ーtertブチルー4−ヒドロキシーペンジルフォスフ
ォネートージエチルエステル、1. 3. 5−トリメ
チル−2,4,6−)リス(3,5ジーtertブチル
−4−ヒドロキシベンジル)ベンゼンなどが挙げられる
。Preferred antioxidants include, for example, hindered phenol compounds which are phenol derivatives having a sterically hindered substituent at a position adjacent to a phenolic hydroxyl group. A typical example of a hindered phenol compound is 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tri(
3,5-tertbutylphenol), 2,6-tertbutyl-p-cresol, triethylene glycol-bis[3-(3-tertbutyl 5-methyl 4
-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], 1,6-hexanethiolubis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, pentaerythrityl-tetrakis[3-(3゜5-di-tert)
rt-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, octadecyl-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-penzylphosphonate diethyl ester, 1. 3. Examples include 5-trimethyl-2,4,6-)lis(3,5-tertbutyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene.
ヒンダードフェノール系化合物をポリエステルへ配合す
る場合の配合量は、耐酸化分解性および口金ノズル汚れ
防止の観点から、ポリエチレングリコール添加量に対し
て0.5〜1O00重量%が好ましい。The amount of the hindered phenol compound added to the polyester is preferably 0.5 to 1000% by weight based on the amount of polyethylene glycol added, from the viewpoint of oxidative decomposition resistance and prevention of nozzle staining.
本発明に用いる常圧可染性ポリエステルは繊維形成性の
優れた常圧可染性ポリエチレンテレフタレートであるこ
とが好ましい。この常圧可染性ポリエステルあるいは常
圧可染性ポリエチレンテレフタレートは製造工程におい
て副生成される範囲内でジエチレングリコールなどを主
鎖に含んでいてもかまわない。The pressure-dyeable polyester used in the present invention is preferably pressure-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate having excellent fiber-forming properties. This normal pressure dyeable polyester or normal pressure dyeable polyethylene terephthalate may contain diethylene glycol or the like in its main chain as long as it is by-produced in the manufacturing process.
また本発明の目的を達成する範囲内で、必要に応じて他
の共重合成分を共重合したり、他のポリマをブレンドし
ても良い。例えばペンタエリスリトール、トリメチロー
ルプロパン、トリメリット酸、ホウ酸等の鎖分岐剤を少
割合共重合したものであってもよい。Further, other copolymerization components may be copolymerized or other polymers may be blended as necessary within the scope of achieving the object of the present invention. For example, a small proportion of a chain branching agent such as pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, trimellitic acid, or boric acid may be copolymerized.
また、この他に任意の添加剤、例えば酸化チタン等の艶
消し剤、紫外線吸収剤、難燃剤、顔料などを必要に応じ
て含有させてもよい。In addition, arbitrary additives such as matting agents such as titanium oxide, ultraviolet absorbers, flame retardants, pigments, etc. may be included as necessary.
本発明におけるシャリ味のあるカスリ調風合は、ポリエ
ステルに共重合されたポリエチレングリコールの共重合
量とU%値の組み合わせにより微妙に変化するものであ
る。これは両者がともに常圧可染性ポリエステル大細糸
の染色性に大きな影響を与える為と推定される。具体的
には、ポリエチレングリコールの共重合量二〇(重量%
)とU%値:Uの間にG+U/2≧9.5の関係式が成
立した場合、シャリ味のあるカスリ調風合が鮮明に表現
され好ましい。この関係式を満足しない場合、染色性が
若干不足して、風合としてやや劣る。またG+U≦21
の関係式が成立した場合、カスリ調風合が適度なものと
なって好ましい。この関係式を満足しない場合、染色性
が若干高く、ややカスリ調が強調されすぎる傾向にある
。The crunchy texture of the present invention varies slightly depending on the combination of the copolymerization amount of polyethylene glycol copolymerized with polyester and the U% value. This is presumed to be because both of them have a great influence on the dyeability of the normal pressure dyeable large fine polyester yarn. Specifically, the amount of polyethylene glycol copolymerized is 20 (wt%)
) and U% value: When the relational expression G+U/2≧9.5 is established, a crispy Kasuri-like texture is clearly expressed, which is preferable. When this relational expression is not satisfied, the dyeability is slightly insufficient and the texture is slightly inferior. Also, G+U≦21
If the following relational expression holds true, the smeared texture will be moderate, which is preferable. If this relational expression is not satisfied, the dyeing properties tend to be a little high, and the dull tone tends to be emphasized a little too much.
本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸は以下のような
方法により好適に製造できる。The atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention can be suitably produced by the following method.
すなわち、例えば通常のポリエステルの溶融紡糸の手法
により本発明で規定する共重合ポリエステルを紡糸速度
2300 m/分〜3600■/分で紡糸したのち、本
発明で規定する諸物性を有するように不完全延伸する方
法により本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸を得る
ことができる。That is, for example, after spinning the copolymerized polyester defined in the present invention by a normal polyester melt spinning method at a spinning speed of 2300 m/min to 3600 m/min, the polyester is incompletely spun so as to have the various physical properties defined in the present invention. The atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention can be obtained by the stretching method.
本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸が最も有効に使
用される用途は、天然繊維、代表的なものとして絹や羊
毛、綿、麻との混用分野である。その理由は通常のポリ
エステルの染色条件では失われてしまう天然繊維の特長
が本発明のポリエステル太細糸では常圧可染性を有して
いるために染色工程により損なうことなく織編物に生か
されるからである。The applications in which the pressure-dyeable polyester thick and fine yarn of the present invention are most effectively used are in the field of mixed use with natural fibers, typically silk, wool, cotton, and hemp. The reason for this is that the features of natural fibers, which are lost under normal polyester dyeing conditions, can be utilized in woven and knitted fabrics without being damaged during the dyeing process, since the thick and thin polyester yarn of the present invention is dyeable under normal pressure. It is from.
ただし常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸がそのまま天然繊
維と混用される場合よりも、常圧可染性ポリエステル太
細糸に仮撚もしくは延伸仮撚加工など通常の高次加工を
施したのちに天然繊維と混用されることが多い。これら
の場合、仮撚もしくは延伸仮撚条件として以下のごとく
の範囲が好ましい。すなわち仮撚ヒーター温度は常圧可
染性ポリエステルの融点をTmとした場合に(Tm−9
0) ℃〜(Tm−40) ℃の範囲が好ましい。また
仮撚数は仮撚加工糸の繊度をD(デニール)とした場合
に17.000/7I5 (T/m) 〜30,000
/J″′r5(T/m) (7)範囲が好ましい。延伸
仮撚の場合には太細糸の繊度をd(デニール)としたと
きに、仮撚張力をd/10(g)〜d/2 (g)とす
ると織編物の品位の点で好ましい。However, rather than using normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn as it is mixed with natural fibers, it is preferable to apply normal high-order processing such as false twisting or stretching false twisting to normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn. Often mixed with natural fibers. In these cases, the following ranges are preferable for the false twisting or stretch false twisting conditions. In other words, the false-twisting heater temperature is (Tm-9
The range is preferably from 0)°C to (Tm-40)°C. In addition, the number of false twists is 17.000/7I5 (T/m) ~ 30,000 when the fineness of the false twisted yarn is D (denier).
/J'''r5 (T/m) (7) The range is preferable. In the case of drawn false twisting, when the fineness of the thick and thin yarn is d (denier), the false twisting tension is d/10 (g) to d/2 (g) is preferable in terms of the quality of the woven or knitted fabric.
また混用形態としては常圧可染性ポリエステル太細加工
糸を、タテ糸あるいはヨコ糸に配置した交織織物や、編
物の表あるいは裏に配置するリバーシブル編物、その他
にポリエステル太細加工糸と天然繊維を混繊、合糸、合
撚させた織編物等があげられる。どのような混用形態が
好ましいかについては、混用される天然繊維により異な
るが、たとえば羊毛の場合にはポリエステル太細加工糸
をタテ糸に用いヨコ糸に羊毛を用いた交織織物や、ポリ
エステル太細加工糸と羊毛を1:4〜4:1の割合で交
撚し、その交撚糸を織編物にすると良い。In addition, examples of mixed forms include mixed woven fabrics in which atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester thick processed yarn is arranged in warp or weft yarns, reversible knitted fabrics in which thick processed polyester yarn is placed on the front or back of knitted fabrics, and other types of mixed fabrics include thick processed polyester yarns and natural fibers. Examples include woven and knitted fabrics made by blending, doubling, and twisting. What kind of blending form is preferable depends on the natural fibers to be mixed, but for example, in the case of wool, a mixed woven fabric using thick polyester processed yarn as the warp yarn and wool as the weft yarn, or It is preferable to mix and twist the processed yarn and wool in a ratio of 1:4 to 4:1 and make the twisted yarn into a woven or knitted fabric.
[実施例]
以下本発明を実施例により、さらに詳細に説明する。な
お実施例中の物性は次のように測定した。[Examples] The present invention will be explained in more detail below using Examples. Note that the physical properties in Examples were measured as follows.
A、黒色明度: L98. Li2Oの測定方法ポリエ
ステルフィラメントから靴下編地(−口筒編地)を編成
し、次いで精練剤としてサンデッドg−29(三洋化成
■製)を用い常法により98°Cl2O分間沸騰下で、
精練処理し、風乾後、これをフリー状態で180℃、3
分間乾熱セットした後に後述の条件で染色、水洗、還元
洗浄、水洗、風乾する。A. Black brightness: L98. Measuring method for Li2O A sock knitted fabric (-mouthpiece knitted fabric) was knitted from polyester filaments, and then boiled at 98°C for minutes using Cl2O using Sanded G-29 (manufactured by Sanyo Kasei ■) as a scouring agent.
After scouring and air drying, it was heated in a free state at 180℃ for 3
After dry heat setting for a minute, dyeing, washing with water, reduction washing, washing with water, and air drying are carried out under the conditions described below.
次いで、黒発色の明度を多光源分光測色計MSC−2型
(スガ試験機■製)にてL値(%)を測定する。Next, the lightness of the black color is measured using a multi-light source spectrophotometer MSC-2 model (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments ■) as an L value (%).
染色温度が98℃の場合の黒色明度(L値)をL9g、
染色温度が130℃の場合の黒色明度(L値)をL 1
30とする。The black lightness (L value) when the dyeing temperature is 98°C is L9g,
The black lightness (L value) when the dyeing temperature is 130°C is L 1
Set it to 30.
染色条件:
(イ)染料: Dianix Black BG−PS
(200%品、三菱化成■製)
染色濃度ニア%o w f
染色助剤:ニッカサンソルト# 1200(日華化学工
業■製)
染色助剤濃度:0.5g/α
染色浴PH:6
染色浴比: I/30
(ロ)水洗
(ハ)還元洗浄
洗浄剤:
ハイドロサルファイト 2g/α
苛性ソーダ 2g/α
サンデッドG−291g/α
(三洋化成■製)
洗浄温度、時間=80℃、20分
浴比: L/30
(ニ)水洗、風乾
B、U%値の測定方法
測定機としては市販のUster EvenessTe
ster (計測器工業株式会社製)を使用する糸のト
ータル繊度により使用する測定用スロットを選択し、糸
速を4m/)cmとし撚糸機で約150Or p mの
回転を与え、撚糸しつつノルマルテストにて測定する。Staining conditions: (a) Dye: Dianix Black BG-PS
(200% product, manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei ■) Dyeing concentration near % o w f Dyeing aid: Nikka Sunsalt # 1200 (manufactured by NICCA CHEMICAL CO., LTD.) Dyeing aid concentration: 0.5 g/α Dyeing bath PH: 6 Dyeing Bath ratio: I/30 (b) Water washing (c) Reduction cleaning Cleaning agent: Hydrosulfite 2g/α Caustic soda 2g/α Sanded G-291g/α (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical) Washing temperature, time = 80°C, 20 minutes Bath ratio: L/30 (d) Water washing, air drying Method for measuring B and U% values A commercially available Uster Eveness Te is used as a measuring device.
ster (manufactured by Keizai Kogyo Co., Ltd.). Select the measuring slot to be used depending on the total fineness of the yarn, set the yarn speed to 4 m/) cm, and apply a rotation of about 150 Or p m with the twisting machine to normal while twisting. Measure by test.
U%値は3分間の測定を1回として、測定試料の任意の
5個所について測定しその平均値で表わす。The U% value is expressed as the average value of measurements taken at five arbitrary locations on the measurement sample, with each 3-minute measurement being taken as one measurement.
C6強度、伸度の測定方法
パーンからポリエステル糸を取出す。これをインストロ
ン引張試験機1122型(インストロン社製、市販品)
でサンプル試長20cmを引張速度20cffl/分に
て切断点まで伸長したときの切断強力(g)を測定する
。この強力を実質総繊度(D)で除し、切断強度(g/
d)を求める。また、切断点まで伸長したときの療養に
対する切断伸度(%)を求める。これらの測定を5回以
上行ない、平均値を強度及び伸度とする。C6 Method for Measuring Strength and Elongation Take out the polyester yarn from the pirn. Instron tensile tester model 1122 (manufactured by Instron, commercial product)
The cutting strength (g) is measured when a sample length of 20 cm is stretched to the cutting point at a tensile rate of 20 cffl/min. This strength is divided by the actual total fineness (D), and the cutting strength (g/
Find d). In addition, the cutting elongation (%) for treatment when elongated to the cutting point is determined. These measurements are performed five or more times, and the average values are taken as the strength and elongation.
D、耐光堅牢度の測定方法
ポリエステルの原糸を靴下編地に編成し、前記黒色明度
の評価法と同様に精練、乾熱セットする。次いで、赤色
の分散染料で淡色に次の染色条件で、染色する。D. Measuring method for light fastness The raw polyester yarn is knitted into a sock knitted fabric, and is scoured and set under dry heat in the same manner as the above-mentioned method for evaluating black color brightness. Next, it is dyed in a light color with a red disperse dye under the following dyeing conditions.
染料: Kayacelon Red E−2BL
(日本化薬■製)染料濃度:0,1%o w f
染色助剤、染浴比、pH1染色浴比は前記黒色明度の評
価法と同様とする。また染色温度は98℃で行ない、こ
の温度で十分染色しない場合は評価対象から外した。Dye: Kayacelon Red E-2BL
(manufactured by Nippon Kayaku ■) Dye concentration: 0.1% o w f The dyeing aid, dye bath ratio, and pH1 dye bath ratio are the same as the above-mentioned method for evaluating black lightness. Further, the dyeing temperature was 98°C, and if the dyeing was not sufficient at this temperature, it was excluded from the evaluation.
次いで、流水で水洗・風乾し、J I 5−L0842
(カーボンアーク打法第3露光法)に従って耐光堅牢
度を測定する。アーク灯照射による染色物の変退色が少
なく良好なものを5級とし、順次1級(劣るもの)まで
の5段階で判定する。Next, wash with running water and air dry, J I 5-L0842
The light fastness is measured according to (carbon arc exposure method 3rd exposure method). A dyed product with little discoloration and fading due to arc lamp irradiation is ranked as 5th grade, and is graded on a 5-level scale from 1st grade (poor) to 1st grade (poor).
以上述べた測定方法により得られる諸物性を表1に示し
た。Table 1 shows various physical properties obtained by the measurement method described above.
実施例1
240〜250℃のビス(2−ヒドロキシエチル)テレ
フタレート低重合体106部を貯留したエステル化反応
層にテレフタル酸86部、エチレングリコール39部の
スラリーを3時間かけてフィードさせると共に水を留出
させ、さらに1時間水を留出させた後、106部の反応
物を重合缶に移し、250℃でリン酸0.03部、メチ
ル−フェニルポリシロキサン(東芝シリコーン■製シリ
コンオイル)01吋部を添加した後、5分間撹拌混合す
る。次に酢酸コバルト0.04部、三酸化アンチモン0
.04部、抗酸化剤イルガノックス−1010(チバ・
ガイギー社製)0.3部、平均分子量1000のポリエ
チレングリコミル8.8部を添加し、さらに5分後0.
05部の二酸化チタンを20重量%のエチレングリコー
ルスラリーとして添加し、250℃から280℃に徐々
に昇温するとともに、大気圧からlmmHg以下の高真
空まで減圧して重縮合させ、極限粘度 0.70の改質
ポリエチレンテレフタレートを得た。 このようにして
得られたポリエステル中の平均分子fiL1000のポ
リエチレングリコールの共重合率は8.0重量%て融点
は258℃であった。Example 1 A slurry of 86 parts of terephthalic acid and 39 parts of ethylene glycol was fed over 3 hours into an esterification reaction layer containing 106 parts of bis(2-hydroxyethyl) terephthalate low polymer at 240 to 250°C, and water was added. After distilling water for an additional 1 hour, 106 parts of the reactant was transferred to a polymerization vessel, and heated at 250°C with 0.03 parts of phosphoric acid and 0.1 parts of methyl-phenyl polysiloxane (silicon oil manufactured by Toshiba Silicone ■). After adding the porridge, stir and mix for 5 minutes. Next, 0.04 part of cobalt acetate, 0 part of antimony trioxide
.. 04 parts, antioxidant Irganox-1010 (Ciba・
0.3 parts (manufactured by Geigy) and 8.8 parts of polyethylene glycomyl with an average molecular weight of 1000 were added, and after another 5 minutes, 0.3 parts of
0.5 parts of titanium dioxide was added as a 20% by weight ethylene glycol slurry, and the temperature was gradually raised from 250°C to 280°C, and the pressure was reduced from atmospheric pressure to a high vacuum of 1 mmHg or less for polycondensation, and the intrinsic viscosity was reduced to 0.05 parts by weight. 70 modified polyethylene terephthalate was obtained. The copolymerization rate of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular fiL of 1000 in the thus obtained polyester was 8.0% by weight, and the melting point was 258°C.
また、平均分子量l000のポリエチレングリコルをそ
れぞれ6.0部、7.1部、10.4部、月、5部添加
した以外は上記とまったく同様に共重合して、平均分子
量1000のポリエチレングリコルの共重合率が5.5
重量%、6.5重量%、9.5重量%、10.5重量%
の共重合ポリエステルを得た。これら共重合ポリエステ
ルの融点は256〜260℃であった。In addition, polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 was copolymerized in exactly the same manner as above except that 6.0 parts, 7.1 parts, 10.4 parts, and 5 parts of polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 1000 were added. copolymerization rate of 5.5
Weight%, 6.5% by weight, 9.5% by weight, 10.5% by weight
A copolymerized polyester was obtained. The melting points of these copolyesters were 256 to 260°C.
得られたポリエステルチップを乾燥機内の雰囲気温度1
50℃で、1wmHg以下の減圧を維持して5時間乾燥
した。該乾燥チップを孔数48個の口金を用い、紡糸温
度290’C1紡糸速度25001/■1nで紡糸した
。引続き、熱ピン温度80℃、延伸倍率1000倍、延
伸速度800 m/win テ延伸し、145〜155
デニール48フイラメントの延伸糸を得た。The obtained polyester chips were placed in a dryer at an atmospheric temperature of 1
It was dried at 50° C. for 5 hours while maintaining a reduced pressure of 1 wmHg or less. The dried chips were spun using a nozzle with 48 holes at a spinning temperature of 290'C and a spinning speed of 25001/1n. Subsequently, the temperature of the hot pin was 80°C, the stretching ratio was 1000 times, and the stretching speed was 800 m/win.
A drawn yarn having a denier of 48 filaments was obtained.
次いで得られた太細糸に延伸仮撚加工を施した。加工条
件は仮撚温度200℃、仮撚速度400冒/分、仮撚張
力50g、仮撚数1800T/mである。水準N0.1
〜4ては加工通過性は良好であり特に顕著な毛羽の発生
もみられなかった。ただし水準No、5では強度不足で
加工通過性が悪かった。この太細加工糸1本に対し羊毛
を交撚し、450デニールのポリエステル・羊毛の交撚
糸を得た。この交撚糸をタテ糸およびヨコ糸に用いて、
2/2の綾線物を製織した。さらに、常法に従って、精
練、洗絨、染色し、仕上げた。仕上幅は153cm、仕
上密度はタテ糸密度55/1nch。Next, the obtained thick and thin yarn was subjected to a drawing and false twisting process. The processing conditions were a false twisting temperature of 200° C., a false twisting rate of 400 twists/min, a false twisting tension of 50 g, and a false twist number of 1800 T/m. Level N0.1
-4, the processability was good and no particularly noticeable fuzz was observed. However, at level No. 5, the strength was insufficient and the processability was poor. Wool was mixed and twisted with respect to one of the thick processed yarns to obtain a 450 denier polyester/wool mixed yarn. Using this twisted yarn for warp and weft yarns,
A 2/2 twill fabric was woven. Furthermore, it was scoured, washed, dyed, and finished according to conventional methods. The finished width is 153cm, and the finished density is warp thread density 55/1nch.
ヨコ糸密度53/1nchであった。なお、染色は青色
の分散染料Re5olfn blue FBL (バイ
エル社製)0.5%o w fと酸性染料Nylosa
n Blue N−GFL(サンド社製)0.5owf
を用いて一浴で98℃で45分間キャリヤーを用いるこ
となく染色し、染色後、ソーダ灰1g/α、非イオン洗
浄剤0.5g/ffの弱アルカリ浴で70℃、20分ソ
ーピング、水洗した。The weft density was 53/1 nch. The dyeing was done using a blue disperse dye Re5olfn blue FBL (manufactured by Bayer AG) 0.5% o w f and an acid dye Nylosa.
n Blue N-GFL (manufactured by Sandoz) 0.5owf
dyed in one bath at 98℃ for 45 minutes without using a carrier, and after dyeing, soaped in a weak alkaline bath containing 1g/α of soda ash and 0.5g/ff of non-ionic detergent at 70℃ for 20 minutes, and washed with water. did.
表1において水準隘1.3.4は本発明の常圧可染性ポ
リエステル太細糸である。既に述べた方法により得られ
た織物は羊毛の持つソフト感と暖かみを有しておりそれ
に加えてシャリ味のあるカスリ調風合を有する優れた織
物となっていた。In Table 1, level 1.3.4 is the normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention. The fabric obtained by the method described above had the soft feel and warmth of wool, and in addition, it was an excellent fabric with a crisp, kasuri-like texture.
これに対して水準No、2では常圧可染性が得られない
ために、発色性が不十分で本発明の目的とする優れた織
物とはなっていない。On the other hand, in level No. 2, the dyeability under normal pressure cannot be obtained, so the color development is insufficient and the fabric is not excellent as the object of the present invention.
また水準No、5は既に述べた通り、加工通過性に劣る
ものであり、また、耐光堅牢度も低く、低品位の織物し
か得られないため、やはり本発明の取扱の容易な常圧可
染性ポリエステル太細糸ではない。In addition, as mentioned above, level No. 5 has poor processing passability, low fastness to light, and can only obtain low-quality fabrics, so it is also difficult to dye at normal pressure, which is easy to handle in the present invention. It is not a thick polyester yarn.
実施例2
実施例1における平均分子量1000のポリエチレング
リコールの代りに平均分子量400.600.2600
.3200のポリエチレングリコールを添加して、以下
実施例1の方法に準じて表2に示す組成の改質ポリエチ
レンテレフタレートを得た。Example 2 Instead of polyethylene glycol having an average molecular weight of 1000 in Example 1, an average molecular weight of 400.600.2600 was used.
.. 3200 polyethylene glycol was added to obtain modified polyethylene terephthalate having the composition shown in Table 2 according to the method of Example 1.
更にこれを実施例1の方法に準じて製糸した。Furthermore, this was yarn-spun according to the method of Example 1.
得られたポリエステル大細糸の物性は表2に示したとお
りである。これを更に実施例1と同様の方法によって仮
撚加工、交撚、製織し織物を得た。The physical properties of the obtained large fine polyester yarn are as shown in Table 2. This was further subjected to false twisting, twisting, and weaving in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a fabric.
表2におい水準NO,7,8は本発明の常圧可染性ポリ
エステル大細糸である。最終製品である織物は羊毛のも
つソフト感と暖かみを有し、加えてシャリ味のあるカス
リ調風合を有する優れた織物であった。一方、水準No
、6では共重合したポリエチレングリコールの平均分子
量及び共重合分率か本発明の規定外であるため染色性が
極めて悪く、羊毛とポリエステル大細糸の染色差からイ
ラツキが生じ商品価値のないものとなってしまった。ま
た織物の一部には、収縮差から生じると推定されるひき
つれなどの欠点が存在した。他方、実施例1に示したポ
リエステル大細糸から織物を得る工程において、染色温
度を1.30℃に変更して水準No、6の大細糸から織
物を作った場合、得られた織物にはイラツキは生しない
ものの、羊毛のもつソフト感や暖かみといった特質は失
なわれ、ゴワゴワとした商品価値のないものであった。In Table 2, levels Nos. 7 and 8 are the normal pressure dyeable polyester large fine yarns of the present invention. The final product, a fabric, had the soft feel and warmth of wool, and in addition had a crisp, Kasuri-like texture. On the other hand, level No.
In No. 6, the average molecular weight and copolymerization fraction of the copolymerized polyethylene glycol are outside the specifications of the present invention, so the dyeability is extremely poor, and the dyeing difference between the wool and large fine polyester yarn causes irritation and has no commercial value. It is had. In addition, some of the fabrics had defects such as twitching, which is presumed to be caused by differential shrinkage. On the other hand, in the process of obtaining a woven fabric from the large fine polyester yarn shown in Example 1, when the dyeing temperature was changed to 1.30°C and the woven fabric was made from the large fine yarn of level No. 6, the resulting fabric Although it did not cause any irritation, it lost the softness and warmth of wool, and it became stiff and had no commercial value.
またひきつれの欠点もやはり存在した。There was also the drawback of twitching.
また水準NcL9では共重合したポリエチレングリコー
ルの平均分子量が高すぎるので発色性が不十分で、また
耐光性も悪(やはり本発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太
細糸ではない。In addition, at level NcL9, the average molecular weight of the copolymerized polyethylene glycol is too high, resulting in insufficient color development and poor light resistance (again, it is not the atmospheric pressure dyeable polyester thick and thin yarn of the present invention).
実施例3
実施例1の方法により水準No、 1及び3.4に示す
組成の改質ポリエチレンテレフタレートを得た。得られ
た改質ポリエチレンテレフタレートチップを実施例1の
方法に準じ、紡糸速度や吐出量、延伸倍率を適宜変更し
て表3に示す物性を有する15種の145〜155デニ
ール48フイラメントの常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸
を得た。Example 3 Modified polyethylene terephthalate having compositions shown in Level No. 1 and 3.4 was obtained by the method of Example 1. The obtained modified polyethylene terephthalate chips were processed according to the method of Example 1, and by changing the spinning speed, discharge amount, and stretching ratio as appropriate, 15 types of 145 to 155 denier 48 filaments having the physical properties shown in Table 3 were prepared under normal pressure. A dyeable polyester thick and fine yarn was obtained.
更にこの大細糸を実施例1の方法により仮撚加工、交撚
、製織し織物を得た。Further, this large fine yarn was subjected to false twisting, twisting, and weaving according to the method of Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.
水準No、11〜15及び18.19や21〜24は本
発明の常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸である。最終製品
はいずれも優れた特性をもつ織物である。ただし各織物
の風合は多少異なるものであった。ふくらみの点では、
水準NQ、13〜15及び18.19や21〜24が優
れており、カスリ調が最も良好に表現されているのが水
準隘11〜14及び18.19.21.22であった。Level Nos. 11 to 15, 18.19 and 21 to 24 are normal pressure dyeable polyester thick and fine yarns of the present invention. The final products are all woven fabrics with excellent properties. However, the texture of each fabric was slightly different. In terms of swelling,
Levels NQ, 13 to 15, 18.19, and 21 to 24 were excellent, and level NQs 11 to 14 and 18.19, 21, and 22 best expressed the dull tone.
また加工通過性の点では水準M、11〜15及び、19
や22〜24が最も良好であった。In terms of processability, standards M, 11 to 15, and 19
and 22 to 24 were the best.
これに対して水準No、10ではU%値が小さいため最
終製品である織物はシャリ味のあるカスリ調風合が皆無
であった。また水準No、16ではU%値が大きすぎて
織物はカスリ調と呼べず、むしろイラツキに近い欠点と
なってしまった。On the other hand, in level No. 10, the U% value was small, so the final product, woven fabric, had no crisp texture. In addition, in level No. 16, the U% value was so large that the fabric could not be called a scratchy texture, but rather had a defect close to irritation.
これら2水準はいずれも本発明外のものであるる。Both of these two levels are outside the scope of the present invention.
また、比較例である水準No、17.20は強度もしく
は伸度が低いために、仮撚加工により糸切れが多発し、
実用には耐えられないものとなってしまった。In addition, the comparative example No. 17.20 had low strength or elongation, so yarn breakage occurred frequently during false twisting.
It has become unbearable for practical use.
[発明の効果]
本発明は特定の共重合ポリエステルからなり、特定の染
色性、強伸度、U%値を有する大細糸である。このよう
な要件を満足するポリエステル太細糸は取扱が容易であ
って、なおかつ新規戸外観および触感を有する織編物に
好適なポリエステル太細糸である。また本発明の太細糸
と天然繊維を混用すると大細糸が常圧可染性ポリエステ
ルであるため、天然繊維の持つ独特の質感を十分に生か
しつつシャリ味のあるカスリ調風合を有する織編物とす
ることが可能である。[Effects of the Invention] The present invention is a large fine yarn made of a specific copolyester and having specific dyeability, strong elongation, and U% value. A polyester thick and thin yarn that satisfies these requirements is easy to handle, and is suitable for woven or knitted fabrics that have the appearance and feel of a new door. In addition, when the thick yarn of the present invention is mixed with natural fibers, since the large yarn is a polyester dyeable under normal pressure, it is possible to create a woven fabric that has a crisp Kasuri-like texture while fully utilizing the unique texture of natural fibers. It can be knitted.
Claims (2)
%値が3〜15%の太細を有し、98℃染色時の黒色明
度が17%以下であるポリエステルマルチフィラメント
であって、該ポリエステルが平均分子量500〜300
0のポリエチレングリコールを6.0〜10重量%共重
合したことを特徴とした常圧可染性ポリエステル太細糸
。(1) Strength is 2.8g/d or more and elongation is 50% or more.
A polyester multifilament having a thickness of 3 to 15% and a black brightness of 17% or less when dyed at 98°C, the polyester having an average molecular weight of 500 to 300.
A thick thin polyester thread dyeable at normal pressure, characterized by copolymerizing 6.0 to 10% by weight of polyethylene glycol.
糸と天然繊維とからなる常圧染色された織編物。(2) A woven or knitted fabric dyed under normal pressure, comprising the thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under normal pressure according to claim (1) and natural fibers.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP14507490A JPH0441716A (en) | 1990-05-31 | 1990-05-31 | Thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under ordinary pressure and woven or knitted fabric composed thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP14507490A JPH0441716A (en) | 1990-05-31 | 1990-05-31 | Thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under ordinary pressure and woven or knitted fabric composed thereof |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPH0441716A true JPH0441716A (en) | 1992-02-12 |
Family
ID=15376782
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP14507490A Pending JPH0441716A (en) | 1990-05-31 | 1990-05-31 | Thick and thin polyester yarn dyeable under ordinary pressure and woven or knitted fabric composed thereof |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPH0441716A (en) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2010070878A (en) * | 2008-09-18 | 2010-04-02 | Teijin Modern Yarn Co Ltd | Polyester monofilament having unevenness in thickness, method for producing the same, fabric using the same, and fibrous product using the fabric |
-
1990
- 1990-05-31 JP JP14507490A patent/JPH0441716A/en active Pending
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2010070878A (en) * | 2008-09-18 | 2010-04-02 | Teijin Modern Yarn Co Ltd | Polyester monofilament having unevenness in thickness, method for producing the same, fabric using the same, and fibrous product using the fabric |
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