JPH0434039A - Production of spunlike fabric - Google Patents
Production of spunlike fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH0434039A JPH0434039A JP2136347A JP13634790A JPH0434039A JP H0434039 A JPH0434039 A JP H0434039A JP 2136347 A JP2136347 A JP 2136347A JP 13634790 A JP13634790 A JP 13634790A JP H0434039 A JPH0434039 A JP H0434039A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarns
- yarn
- core
- sheath
- fabric
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 7
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000009835 boiling Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 abstract description 10
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 abstract description 7
- 229920002292 Nylon 6 Polymers 0.000 abstract description 2
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 abstract description 2
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 10
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000009981 jet dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920002302 Nylon 6,6 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000021615 conjugation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010036 direct spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003292 glue Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002940 repellent Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007790 scraping Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920003002 synthetic resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000057 synthetic resin Substances 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
（産業上の利用分野）
外観がスパンライクで、繊細タッチを有するスパンライ
ク織物の製造に関し、軽量で柔軟、かつ機能酸に富む熱
可塑性合成マルチフィラメントスパンライク織物の製造
法に関する。Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Application Field) Manufacture of thermoplastic synthetic multifilament spunlike fabrics that are lightweight, flexible, and rich in functional acids, with regard to the production of spunlike fabrics that have a spunlike appearance and a delicate touch. Regarding the law.
（従来技術）
いわゆる、高級細番手綿を用いた織物は、軽量で、繊細
なタッチを有するが、引裂強力が弱く、アウトドアウェ
ア、スポーツウェア等には不向きで、用途が制約される
。綿の代替品として、耐久性のある合繊によるスパンラ
イク織物、例えば極細タイプの起毛品、タスランクイプ
の織物等が提案されている。しかし極細タイプは製糸及
び染色仕上等製造コストが高い。スパンライク織物の代
表的なものがタスランクイブの織物で、製織性の面から
、経糸にフィラメント、緯糸にタスラン糸を用いたもの
が一般的である。しかし、起毛せずには繊細なタッチを
有する織物は得られていない。(Prior Art) Fabrics using so-called high-grade fine count cotton are lightweight and have a delicate touch, but have low tear strength and are unsuitable for outdoor wear, sportswear, etc., and their uses are restricted. As a substitute for cotton, spun-like fabrics made of durable synthetic fibers, such as ultra-fine raised fabrics and taslanquipe fabrics, have been proposed. However, the ultra-fine type requires high production costs such as spinning and dyeing. A typical example of spun-like fabric is the taslan yves fabric, which generally uses filaments for the warp and taslan yarn for the weft in terms of weavability. However, a fabric with a delicate touch cannot be obtained without raising.
理由は経糸に供せられるスパンライク糸が未だにないか
らである。これらはコスト的に無杼織機で織れるもので
なくてはならず、糸の性質上、ジェットルームの開ロシ
ゴキに耐えられず、製織性が大幅に低下するのがその理
由である。The reason is that there is still no spunlike yarn that can be used as warp yarns. These materials must be able to be woven on a shuttleless loom due to cost considerations, and the reason for this is that due to the nature of the yarns, they cannot withstand the opening of the jet loom, which significantly reduces weavability.
（発明が解決しようとする課題）
本発明はスパンライク織物の前記欠点を解消し、製織し
易く、起毛せずとも繊細なタッチを有し、十分な機能性
を備え、軽量で柔軟なスパンライク織物を安価に得る方
法を提供することを目的とする。(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention solves the above-mentioned drawbacks of spun-like fabrics, and creates spun-like fabrics that are easy to weave, have a delicate touch without raising, have sufficient functionality, and are lightweight and flexible. The purpose is to provide a method of obtaining textiles at low cost.
（課題を解決するための手段）
即ち、本発明は芯部と鞘部からなる二層構造微細捲縮複
合糸を経糸及び／又は緯糸に用いた織物の製造方法にお
いて、芯糸に単糸１．５デニール以下の熱可塑性合成繊
維マルチフィラメントを、鞘糸に単糸２．０デニール以
下で前記芯糸の１００℃沸水収縮率より少なくとも５％
高収縮の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントをそれぞ
れ用いてオーバーフィード率差で３％以上の異供給で、
しかも鞘糸のオーバーフィード率を最大１５％で乱流処
理して得られた二層構造微細捲縮複合糸を用いてなるこ
とを特徴とするスパンライク織物の製造方法である。(Means for Solving the Problems) That is, the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a fabric using a two-layer finely crimped composite yarn consisting of a core and a sheath as the warp and/or weft. .5 denier or less thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament is used as a sheath yarn with a single yarn of 2.0 denier or less and at least 5% more than the 100°C boiling water shrinkage rate of the core yarn.
Using high-shrinkage thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament, the difference in overfeed rate is 3% or more.
Moreover, this method of producing a spunlike fabric is characterized in that it uses a two-layer finely crimped composite yarn obtained by subjecting the sheath yarn to turbulence treatment at a maximum overfeed rate of 15%.
先ず本発明における二層構造微細捲縮複合糸は乱流処理
により芯部と鞘部とから構成される。芯部の熱可塑性合
成繊維マルチフィラメントは単糸デニールが１．５デニ
ール以下、好ましくは１゜０デニール以下である。一方
鞘糸の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントは単糸２．
０デニール以下、好ましくは１．５デニール以下である
。双方とも前記単糸デニールを超えると出来た織物の風
合いが粗硬になり、繊細なタッチが得られない。First, the two-layer finely crimped composite yarn of the present invention is composed of a core part and a sheath part by turbulence treatment. The thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament of the core has a single filament denier of 1.5 denier or less, preferably 1°0 denier or less. On the other hand, the thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament of the sheath yarn is a single yarn 2.
It is 0 denier or less, preferably 1.5 denier or less. If both exceed the above-mentioned single yarn denier, the texture of the resulting fabric will become rough and hard, making it impossible to obtain a delicate touch.
更に、前記鞘糸の１００℃沸水収縮率（Ｓ）ＩＷ）は芯
部のそれよりも少なくとも５％以上大きくなければなら
ない。好ましくは７％以上大きればよく、複合糸の集束
性が向上し、製織性や織物品位が優れたものとなる。Furthermore, the 100° C. boiling water shrinkage rate (S) IW) of the sheath yarn must be at least 5% greater than that of the core. Preferably, it should be 7% or more, which improves the bundling properties of the composite yarn and provides excellent weavability and fabric quality.
前記芯糸と鞘糸を乱流処理に供するが、その際、引揃え
ではなく異供給とする。鞘糸のオーバーフィード率を芯
糸のそれより３％以上大きクシ、鞘糸の最大オーバーフ
ィード率を１５％とする。両者のフィード率差が３％未
満であれば芯糸を鞘糸が包み込み状態とならず、複合糸
の集束性が低下するので好ましくない。又、鞘糸の最大
フィード率が１５％を超えると、複合糸のループが大き
くなり過ぎて、製織性が低下するので好ましくない。The core yarn and sheath yarn are subjected to turbulence treatment, but at that time, they are not aligned but are fed differently. The overfeed rate of the sheath yarn is 3% or more higher than that of the core yarn, and the maximum overfeed rate of the sheath yarn is 15%. If the feed rate difference between the two is less than 3%, the core yarn will not be wrapped around the sheath yarn, and the cohesiveness of the composite yarn will deteriorate, which is not preferable. Furthermore, if the maximum feed rate of the sheath yarn exceeds 15%, the loops of the composite yarn become too large and weavability deteriorates, which is not preferable.
前記芯糸及び鞘糸の熱可塑性合成樹脂は、ナイロン６１
ナイロン６６等のポリアミド系やポリエチレンテレフタ
レート等のポリエステル系あるいはそれらの共重合物か
らなる繊維から選ばれる。The thermoplastic synthetic resin of the core yarn and sheath yarn is nylon 61.
The fibers are selected from fibers made of polyamides such as nylon 66, polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, or copolymers thereof.
又、艶消剤、改質剤等を含んでもよい。断面形状は、丸
、三角、偏平、中空等いずれであってもよい。It may also contain a matting agent, a modifier, etc. The cross-sectional shape may be round, triangular, flat, hollow, etc.
乱流処理は糸速１５０〜５００ｍ／分、エアー圧４〜８
にに／ｃｌの条件下で前記オーバーフィード率で以て乱
流交絡処理を施す。Turbulent flow treatment uses yarn speed of 150 to 500 m/min, air pressure of 4 to 8
The turbulent entanglement treatment is performed under the condition of Ni/Cl at the above-mentioned overfeed rate.
そして、この様にして得られた二層構造微細捲縮複合糸
を経糸及び／又は緯糸に使用して製織する。Then, the thus obtained two-layer finely crimped composite yarn is used as the warp and/or weft for weaving.
製織に先立って糊付工程を経てもよく、その場合は乾燥
チャンバー温度は１００〜１３０℃、シリンダー温度は
９０〜１００℃に設定し、着糊率は７〜１３ｖｔ％が好
ましい。又、製織後液流染色機でモミ効果を付与すると
、風合い面で好ましい。A sizing step may be performed prior to weaving, in which case the drying chamber temperature is preferably set at 100-130°C, the cylinder temperature is set at 90-100°C, and the sizing rate is preferably 7-13vt%. In addition, it is preferable in terms of texture to impart a fir effect using a jet dyeing machine after weaving.
更に撥水加工や起毛処理してもよい。Furthermore, it may be subjected to water repellent treatment or brushed treatment.
（作用）
優れた嵩高付与効果を狙う方法として、芯糸に高収縮糸
を用いたタスラン糸使いの織物を染色加工時に芯糸の収
縮を発現させ布帛全体のバルキー感の付与を狙ったもの
がある。しかし、これを緯糸にのみの使用では風合は不
十分である。これを経・緯に用い、生地を作ったみたと
ころ、緯糸のみより繊細なタッチ・外観が得られた。し
かじ製織性は大幅に低下し、開口不良による経切れ、ス
クイが多発し、織物として価値をなさなかった。(Function) As a method aiming at an excellent bulking effect, there is a method that aims to give a bulky feeling to the entire fabric by causing the core yarn to shrink during the dyeing process of fabrics using Taslan yarn that uses high shrinkage yarn as the core yarn. be. However, if this is used only for the weft, the texture is insufficient. When I made fabric using this for the warp and weft, I was able to obtain a more delicate touch and appearance than using only the weft. However, the weavability was significantly reduced, and warping and scraping occurred frequently due to poor opening, making the fabric useless as a fabric.
本発明は鋭意検討結果、従来の芯・鞘の糸の収縮率を逆
転させることでこの問題を解決した。即ち、タスラン糸
長さ方向に２者が交絡し、ランダムに微小ループを形成
しており交絡部に絡み強弱が発生するのは避けることが
できない。又、織物は製織性向上から、糊付・乾燥工程
が必須である。As a result of extensive research, the present invention has solved this problem by reversing the shrinkage rates of the conventional core/sheath threads. That is, the two are intertwined in the length direction of the Taslan yarn, forming minute loops at random, and it is unavoidable that the intertwined portions will be entangled and have some strength or weakness. In addition, sizing and drying processes are essential for textiles in order to improve weavability.
従来糸はタスランとして見掛けは均一であっても糊付・
乾燥工程で芯糸が収縮するため交絡の弱い部分で糸が解
離され、ループ発生が助長される。Conventional threads are taslan, and even though they look uniform, they are glued and
During the drying process, the core yarn shrinks, causing the yarn to dissociate at weakly intertwined areas, promoting the formation of loops.
その為、糊付本来の目的が達成されず、逆に糸の抱合伏
態が悪（なり、製織性が低下する。モして製織性を向上
せしめるには、タスラン糸のオーバーフィード率を下げ
ればよいが、フィラメント状となり風合効果は期待でき
ない。As a result, the original purpose of sizing is not achieved, and on the contrary, the conjugation of the yarn becomes poor, resulting in a decrease in weaving performance.In order to improve weavability, it is necessary to reduce the overfeed rate of the taslan yarn. It is fine, but it becomes filament-like and no texture effect can be expected.
このような背景から経糸に使用できるタスラン糸はなか
った。本発明はこの問題を解決したものである。即ち、
タスラン糸としながらも、糊付・乾燥工程で熱履歴を受
けても、芯鞘成分が解離することなく逆に鞘糸が収縮す
ることで芯糸を抱み込む働きをし、系全体の集束効果を
もたらし、製織性が向上し、かつ染色加工工程で十分な
捲縮発現が得られ、バルキーで繊細タッチ・外観が得ら
れる。Due to this background, there was no Taslan thread that could be used for warp threads. The present invention solves this problem. That is,
Even though it is a Taslan yarn, even if it is subjected to heat history during the sizing and drying process, the core-sheath components do not dissociate, and on the contrary, the sheath yarns contract and work to embrace the core yarns, resulting in the focusing of the entire system. effect, improves weavability, and provides sufficient crimp expression during the dyeing process, resulting in a bulky yet delicate touch and appearance.
経糸のみでも十分な効果が得られるが、特に経糸・緯糸
両方に用いると次の効果が得られる。Sufficient effects can be obtained with just the warp, but the following effects can be obtained especially when both the warp and weft are used.
１）繊細なタッチ・外観を宵するスパンライク織物が得
られた。1) A spun-like fabric with a delicate touch and appearance was obtained.
２）製織が容易である
３）糸の集束効果で耐水圧、撥水、防風、保温効果等機
能性向上する。2) Easy to weave 3) Functional properties such as water pressure resistance, water repellency, windproofing, and heat retention effects are improved due to the bundled thread effect.
４）染色性の異なる糸の組合せで無地や異色染効果が得
られる。4) A plain color or different color dyeing effect can be obtained by combining yarns with different dyeability.
尚、本発明における二層構造微細捲縮複合糸を経糸とし
て使用する場合、せ撚を施せば高速製織が可能となる。In addition, when the two-layer structure finely crimped composite yarn of the present invention is used as a warp yarn, high-speed weaving becomes possible by twisting the yarn.
（実施例）
引取速度４７００ ｍ／ｗｉｎ、切断伸度４８％の第１
表に示す銘柄のナイロン６フィラメント（セミダル、丸
断面）を直接紡糸延伸法（ＤＤＮ）にて、又従来のフル
ドローヤーン方式（ＦＤＹ）にて共重合ポリエステルマ
ルチフィラメント（セミダル・丸断面）を得た。次いで
第２表に示すマルチフィラメントの組合せで乱流処理を
施し、経及び緯糸に用いて糊付製織をウォータージェッ
トルームにて（日産社製ＬＷ４１．４５Ｏｒｐｍ）平織
製織した。(Example) The first with a take-up speed of 4700 m/win and a cutting elongation of 48%.
Nylon 6 filaments (semi-dull, round cross-section) of the brands shown in the table were used to obtain copolymerized polyester multifilaments (semi-dull, round cross-section) using the direct spinning/drawing method (DDN) or using the conventional full-draw yarn method (FDY). . Next, turbulence treatment was performed using the combination of multifilaments shown in Table 2, and the warp and weft were used for plain weave weaving with glue in a water jet loom (LW 41.45 Orpm, manufactured by Nissan).
次いで液流染色機で常法でリラックス、精練を施し、酸
性染料でナイロン糸のみを染色し、仕上げセットをして
織物を得た。評価を第２表に示す。Next, the yarn was relaxed and refined using a jet dyeing machine in a conventional manner, and only the nylon thread was dyed with an acid dye, and a finishing set was performed to obtain a fabric. The evaluation is shown in Table 2.
第
表
（発明の効果）
本発明によると、外観がスパンライクで繊細なタッチを
有し、しかも柔軟な織物を製造することを可能とした。Table 1 (Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, it is possible to produce a fabric that has a spun-like appearance, a delicate touch, and is flexible.
Claims (1)
び／又は緯糸に用いた織物の製造方法において、芯糸に
単糸１．５デニール以下の熱可塑性合成繊維マルチフィ
ラメントを、鞘糸に単糸２．０デニール以下で前記芯糸
の１００℃沸水収縮率より少なくとも５％高収縮の熱可
塑性合成繊維マルチフィラメントをそれぞれ用いてオー
バーフィード率差で３％以上の異供給で、しかも鞘糸の
オーバーフィード率を最大１５％で乱流処理して得られ
た二層構造微細捲縮複合糸を用いてなることを特徴とす
るスパンライク織物の製造方法。In a method for producing a fabric using a two-layer finely crimped composite yarn consisting of a core and a sheath for the warp and/or weft, a thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament having a single yarn of 1.5 denier or less is used as the core yarn, and a sheath is used. The yarns are thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilaments each having a single yarn of 2.0 denier or less and shrinking at least 5% higher than the 100°C boiling water shrinkage rate of the core yarn, with a difference in overfeed rate of 3% or more, and A method for producing a spunlike fabric, characterized in that it is made of a two-layer finely crimped composite yarn obtained by subjecting sheath yarn to turbulent flow treatment at a maximum overfeed rate of 15%.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2136347A JP2874283B2 (en) | 1990-05-25 | 1990-05-25 | Manufacturing method of spun-like woven fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2136347A JP2874283B2 (en) | 1990-05-25 | 1990-05-25 | Manufacturing method of spun-like woven fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH0434039A true JPH0434039A (en) | 1992-02-05 |
| JP2874283B2 JP2874283B2 (en) | 1999-03-24 |
Family
ID=15173073
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP2136347A Expired - Fee Related JP2874283B2 (en) | 1990-05-25 | 1990-05-25 | Manufacturing method of spun-like woven fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JP2874283B2 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH07317978A (en) * | 1994-05-31 | 1995-12-08 | Kiso Kogyo Kk | Joint for corrugated pipe |
| JP2009185416A (en) * | 2008-02-07 | 2009-08-20 | Toray Ind Inc | Combined filament yarn, and woven or knitted fabric using the same |
-
1990
- 1990-05-25 JP JP2136347A patent/JP2874283B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH07317978A (en) * | 1994-05-31 | 1995-12-08 | Kiso Kogyo Kk | Joint for corrugated pipe |
| JP2009185416A (en) * | 2008-02-07 | 2009-08-20 | Toray Ind Inc | Combined filament yarn, and woven or knitted fabric using the same |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JP2874283B2 (en) | 1999-03-24 |
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