JPH0379471B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPH0379471B2
JPH0379471B2 JP58153443A JP15344383A JPH0379471B2 JP H0379471 B2 JPH0379471 B2 JP H0379471B2 JP 58153443 A JP58153443 A JP 58153443A JP 15344383 A JP15344383 A JP 15344383A JP H0379471 B2 JPH0379471 B2 JP H0379471B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
treatment
shrinkage
effect
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
JP58153443A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS6045664A (en
Inventor
Hiroshi Yoshida
Koji Tanaka
Juzo Takahashi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toyobo Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toyobo Co Ltd filed Critical Toyobo Co Ltd
Priority to JP58153443A priority Critical patent/JPS6045664A/en
Publication of JPS6045664A publication Critical patent/JPS6045664A/en
Publication of JPH0379471B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0379471B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

本発明は、織物表面にあたかもエンボスで型付
けしたような光沢斑状の模様を表出し、且つ、ス
エード毛皮あるいはチンチラ毛皮の如き表面効果
を呈する織物の製造方法に関するものである。 従来より、織物の経糸として、熱水収縮率差が
10%以上の複合合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸を
用いて朱子織織物を製織し、該織物を通常の染色
工程によつて無地染あるいは捺染加工されている
が、このようにして得られた織物の表面は均一な
外観を有した織物であり、織物外観変化の芝しい
ものであつた。また、表面変化を付与するため
に、編成によるパイルループのパイル長に高低を
つけたり、あるいは、織物に起毛に生じさせて、
本願発明で得られる織物と類似の表面効果を有す
るものが存在するが、これらは生地厚みが厚く、
また、繁雑な加工工程を要し、コスト高であり、
しかも、表面が粗い効果のものである。 本発明は、織物表面がスエード毛皮あるいはチ
ンチラ毛皮の如き表面効果、即ち、光沢斑状の模
様効果を呈する織物の製造方法に関するものであ
つて、経糸として、熱水収縮率差が10%以上であ
る複合合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸を用い、緯
糸に適宜糸を用いて、経糸が完全組織内で連続し
て、4本以上浮く朱子織織物を製織し、次いで、
該織物を100℃以上の液温度で無緊張、ロープ状
で循環回動させながら、高収縮処理し、次いでプ
リセツト、染色、仕上げ加工するこを特徴とする
光沢斑状模様効果を呈する織物の製造方法であ
る。 以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。 経糸として、熱水収縮率差が10%以上である複
合合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸を用いる。熱水
収縮率差が10%以下では本願が目的としている表
面効果が得られず、一方、充分な表面効果を得る
ためには、熱水収縮率差が20%以上であることが
好ましい。熱水収縮率差は、大きい程好ましい
が、糸の性質、製造法の現状からみで、70%以下
が適当である。熱水収縮率差は、JISL−1096に
準じて測定したA糸とB糸の熱水収縮率の差をい
う。織物の経糸芳香の収縮率差と織物表面効果と
の関係を示すと第1表の如くである。
The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric that exhibits a glossy mottled pattern on the surface of the fabric, as if embossed, and has a surface effect similar to suede fur or chinchilla fur. Traditionally, the difference in hot water shrinkage rate has been used for the warp of textiles.
Satin woven fabrics are woven using multifilament yarns containing 10% or more composite synthetic fibers, and the fabrics are plain dyed or printed using a normal dyeing process, but the surface of the fabrics obtained in this way The fabric had a uniform appearance, and the appearance of the fabric varied considerably. In addition, in order to give surface changes, the pile length of the pile loops due to knitting is made to have different heights, or the fabric is made to have naps,
There are fabrics that have similar surface effects to the fabrics obtained in the present invention, but these fabrics are thicker and
In addition, it requires a complicated processing process and is expensive.
Moreover, it has a rough surface effect. The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric whose surface exhibits a surface effect similar to suede fur or chinchilla fur, that is, a shiny mottled pattern effect, the warp having a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more. Using composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn and using appropriate threads for the weft, we weave a satin weave fabric in which four or more warp threads float continuously within a complete structure, and then,
A method for producing a woven fabric exhibiting a glossy mottled pattern effect, characterized by subjecting the woven fabric to high shrinkage treatment while circulating the fabric in a rope-like manner without tension at a liquid temperature of 100°C or higher, followed by presetting, dyeing, and finishing. It is. The present invention will be explained in detail below. As the warp, a composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn with a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more is used. If the hot water shrinkage rate difference is 10% or less, the surface effect targeted by the present application cannot be obtained. On the other hand, in order to obtain a sufficient surface effect, it is preferable that the hot water shrinkage rate difference is 20% or more. The larger the difference in hot water shrinkage, the better; however, considering the properties of the yarn and the current state of manufacturing methods, a value of 70% or less is appropriate. The difference in hot water shrinkage rate refers to the difference in hot water shrinkage rate between yarn A and yarn B, which was measured according to JISL-1096. Table 1 shows the relationship between the shrinkage rate difference in the warp aroma of the fabric and the fabric surface effect.

【表】 合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸としては、ポリ
エステル、ナイロン、アセテート糸などいずれで
もよく、また、ブライト糸、セミダル糸であつて
もよく、丸断面糸、事型断面糸であつてもよい。
複合方法としては、空気流、静電気による混織や
合撚、引き揃えなどがあるが、空気流や静電気に
よる混織が好ましい。更に好ましくは、少なくと
も一方に、プライドポリエステルマルチフイラメ
ントを含む混織糸が好ましい。高収縮糸と低収縮
糸との混織率は30:70%〜70〜30%(重量比)が
適当であるが、好ましくは50%:50%である。高
収縮糸の混織率が20%以下になると、本発明で目
的とする効果は期待できない。 該熱水収縮率差が10%以上である複合合成繊維
マルチフイラメント糸を経糸のすべてあるいは適
宜本交互に配するが、経糸の50%以上をしめるこ
とが好ましい。糸の太さは特に限定されるもので
はなく、いかなる太さのものでも本願発明で目的
とする織物表面効果が得られる。 緯糸は、合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸、合成
繊維マルチフイラメント加工糸、合成繊維スパン
糸あるいは天然繊維糸であつてもよく、また、糸
の太さも特に限定されない。最終用途によつて、
適宜選択することができる。例えば、スカート、
ドレスのように厚味のある織物を目的とする場合
には、加工糸が適するし、ブラウスのように薄地
織物を目的とする場合には、フイラメント糸が適
する。 織物組織としては、経糸が完全組織内で連続し
て4本以上浮く5枚以上の朱子組織がよいが、収
縮処理で経糸が組織より浮き上がり、あたかもパ
イル状の効果を呈するので、良好な表面効果のも
のを得るには、7本浮く8枚朱子が好ましい。一
方、3本浮く組織では組織からの経糸の浮き上が
りが小さく、本願で目的とする織物表面が得られ
ない。また、12枚朱子は、本願で目的とする織物
表面が得られるが、スナツギングが生じやすくな
り、織物品質上、問題が残る。経糸密度は朱子織
物として一般的に織物規格で用いられているもの
でよい。例えば、トータルデニールが75デニール
の場合、190〜250本/インチが好ましい。緯糸密
度も朱子織物として一般的に織物規格で用いられ
ているものでよい。 次いで、本願発明の要件の1つである表面効果
を付与するための高収縮処理について説明する。 該高収縮処理は、経糸を浮き立たせ、これら浮
糸の高さ、芳香、配列をランダムに変化させるこ
とによつて、光沢斑状の表面効果を織物表面に付
与させるために行なうものである。該高収縮処理
は、本発明独自の工程であり、通常の染加工では
行われていない工程である。該高収縮処理は、織
物を高温、無緊張、ロープ状で循環回動させなが
ら行なうことが必要である。無緊張状態で処理す
ることにより、糸の収縮が容易となり、特に、高
収縮糸と低収縮糸との収縮差の効果によつて、低
収縮糸が織物表面にループ状に浮き上がる。そし
て、ロープ状で循環回動させることにより、織物
全体により大きな収縮が生じ、同時に滞溜時に織
物が押込み状態になり、収縮によつて生地組織表
面より浮上がつた前記ループ状の低収縮糸が生地
と生地との接触によつて、部分適に配列がランダ
ムに変化させられ、また、高温熱水処理のため、
容易に変化する効果が生じる。また、高収縮処理
において、処理液温度、浴比、布速、昇温時間の
処理条件が重要な要件となる。処理液温度90℃か
ら140℃までの各処理液温度での織物表面の効果
の違いをみてみると第2表の如くである。
[Table] The synthetic fiber multifilament yarn may be any of polyester, nylon, acetate yarn, etc., and may also be bright yarn, semi-dull yarn, round cross-section yarn, or regular cross-section yarn.
Composite methods include mixed weaving, plying, twisting, and aligning using air currents and static electricity, but mixed weaving using air currents and static electricity is preferred. More preferably, at least one of the yarns is a blended yarn containing pride polyester multifilament. The blend ratio of high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn is suitably 30:70% to 70-30% (weight ratio), preferably 50%:50%. If the blending ratio of high shrinkage yarn is less than 20%, the desired effect of the present invention cannot be expected. Composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarns having a hot water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more are arranged in all the warp threads or alternately as appropriate, but preferably in 50% or more of the warp threads. The thickness of the yarn is not particularly limited, and the desired textile surface effect of the present invention can be obtained with any thickness. The weft may be a synthetic fiber multifilament yarn, a synthetic fiber multifilament processed yarn, a synthetic fiber spun yarn, or a natural fiber yarn, and the thickness of the yarn is not particularly limited. Depending on the end use,
It can be selected as appropriate. For example, skirt,
Textured yarn is suitable for thick fabrics such as dresses, and filament yarn is suitable for thin fabrics such as blouses. A satin weave with five or more layers in which four or more warps are consecutively floating within a complete weave is good for the woven fabric, but the shrinkage treatment causes the warps to rise above the weave, creating a pile-like effect, resulting in a good surface effect. In order to obtain this, it is preferable to use 8 pieces of satin with 7 pieces floating on top. On the other hand, in the case of a three-strand floating structure, the lifting of the warp yarns from the structure is small, and the fabric surface targeted in the present application cannot be obtained. Furthermore, although 12-ply satin can provide the desired textile surface in the present application, it tends to cause snagging, which remains a problem in terms of textile quality. The warp density may be that generally used in textile standards for satin fabrics. For example, when the total denier is 75 denier, 190 to 250 lines/inch is preferable. The weft density may also be that which is generally used in textile standards for satin fabrics. Next, high shrinkage treatment for imparting a surface effect, which is one of the requirements of the present invention, will be explained. The high shrinkage treatment is carried out in order to impart a shiny mottled surface effect to the surface of the fabric by making the warp yarns stand out and randomly changing the height, aroma and arrangement of these floating yarns. The high shrinkage treatment is a process unique to the present invention, and is a process that is not performed in normal dyeing processing. The high shrinkage treatment must be carried out at high temperature, without tension, while circulating the fabric in the form of a rope. The treatment in a tension-free state facilitates the shrinkage of the yarn, and in particular, due to the effect of the difference in shrinkage between the high-shrinkage yarn and the low-shrinkage yarn, the low-shrinkage yarn floats up in the form of a loop on the surface of the fabric. By circulating and rotating the rope, a larger contraction occurs as a whole of the fabric, and at the same time, the fabric becomes compressed when it accumulates, and the loop-shaped low-shrinkage yarn floats up from the surface of the fabric tissue due to the contraction. Due to the contact between the fabrics, the arrangement of the parts is randomly changed, and due to the high temperature hot water treatment,
Easily variable effects occur. In addition, in high shrinkage treatment, treatment conditions such as treatment liquid temperature, bath ratio, fabric speed, and heating time are important requirements. Table 2 shows the difference in the effect on the fabric surface at each treatment liquid temperature from 90°C to 140°C.

【表】 また、浴比を1:5〜1:40まで変化させた場
合の各々浴比での織物表面の効果の違いをみてみ
ると、第3表の如くである。
[Table] Table 3 also shows the differences in the effect on the fabric surface at each bath ratio when the bath ratio was varied from 1:5 to 1:40.

【表】 また、布速を100m/分〜600m/分まで変化さ
せた場合の各々布速での織物表面の効果の違いを
みてみると第4表の如くである。
Table 4 Table 4 shows the differences in the effect on the fabric surface at each cloth speed when the cloth speed was varied from 100 m/min to 600 m/min.

【表】 また、昇温時間(℃/分)を0.5℃/分〜10
℃/分まで変化させた場合の各々昇温時間での織
物表面の効果の違いをみてみると第5表の如くで
ある。
[Table] In addition, the temperature increase time (℃/min) is 0.5℃/min to 10℃.
Table 5 shows the difference in the effect on the fabric surface depending on the heating time when the temperature was varied up to ℃/min.

【表】【table】

【表】 第2表〜第5表に記載しているように、本願発
明で目的とする織物表面効果を得るためには、高
収縮処理における処理液温度は、130℃以上が好
ましく、液比は、1:15以下、布速は、400m/
分以上、昇温時間は、3℃/分以上が好ましい。
以上の如き高収縮処理は、通常の染色に使用され
る小浴比型液流染色機を使用することができる。 ここで、高収縮処理によつて、1回の収縮処理
で大きな収縮をさせると、織物に収縮ジワなどの
欠点が生じ易いので、高収縮処理を行なう前に予
備収縮処理のためのリラツクス処理を行う事が好
ましい。該リラツクス処理は、「ソフサー」のよ
うな拡布、連続リラクサーによつて、織物を拡
布、無緊張状態で熱水処理する。熱水処理温度
は、100℃未満でおこない、プレウエツト槽の液
温は、通常のリラツクス処理よりも低い60〜70℃
で行ない、続いて、本槽の液温は95〜98℃で行な
うことが好ましい。 その後は、通常の加工法であるプレセツト、染
色・仕上げ加工を行なう。 以上の如く製造された織物は、織物の表面に光
沢斑状模様効果が付与され、レザー調の表面模様
効果と風合いが得られるし、また、前述した織物
表面効果を有している秋/冬物の厚地織物から春
物の薄地織物まで巾広い織物厚みのもをが得られ
る。同時に織物表面に光沢斑状模様効果が得られ
るのでフアツシヨン性の高い商品展開が可能とな
る。 以下、実施例について説明する 実施例: 経糸として、75デニール60フイラメントのポリ
エステルブライト糸の異収縮混織糸を用い、緯糸
として、75デニール36フイラメントのポリエステ
ル1段仮撚加工糸を用いて、いずれも追撚するこ
となくそのまま製織に用いて、経糸密度250本/
インチ、緯糸密度90本/インチの8枚朱子の織組
織で織物を構成した。該織物を下記条件で加工し
た。 リラツクス処理は、拡布連続リラクサーを使用
する。 プレウエツト槽液温度:70℃ 本槽液温度:95℃ 高収縮処理は低浴比型液流処理装置を用いる。 処理液温度×温度 130℃×20 浴 比 1:10 布 速 600m/分 昇温時間 3℃/分 該処理による織物の収縮率は経糸方向25〜26
%、緯糸方向43〜45%であつた。 その後、通常の如く、プレセツト、染色仕上げ
加工を行なつた。該織物は、織物表面が光沢の強
い光つた部分と光沢の弱い部分とで、光沢ムラ状
となり、あたかもチンチラ毛皮調の表面効果を呈
する婦人衣服用に適する織物地が得られた。 比較例: 実施例1と同一の織物生機を通常の如くリラツ
クス、プレセツト、染色仕上げして得られた織物
は、表面の光沢斑状の効果はなく、均一な外観を
有する織物であり、表面変化に乏しく、実施例で
得られたものに比べて、織物表面が著しく異なる
ものであつた。
[Table] As shown in Tables 2 to 5, in order to obtain the fabric surface effect targeted by the present invention, the treatment liquid temperature in the high shrinkage treatment is preferably 130°C or higher, and the liquid ratio is 1:15 or less, cloth speed is 400m/
The heating time is preferably 3°C/min or more.
For the high shrinkage treatment as described above, a small bath ratio jet dyeing machine used for ordinary dyeing can be used. Here, if high shrinkage treatment causes a large amount of shrinkage in one shrinkage treatment, defects such as shrinkage wrinkles are likely to occur in the fabric, so before performing high shrinkage treatment, a relaxation treatment is performed as a pre-shrinkage treatment. It is preferable to do so. In the relaxing treatment, the fabric is spread out using a continuous relaxer such as a "softer" and then treated with hot water in a non-tensioned state. The hot water treatment temperature is less than 100℃, and the liquid temperature in the pre-wetting tank is 60 to 70℃, which is lower than normal relaxing treatment.
It is preferable to carry out the process at a temperature of 95 to 98°C, followed by a liquid temperature in the main tank of 95 to 98°C. After that, the usual processing methods such as presetting, dyeing and finishing are carried out. The woven fabric produced as described above has a glossy mottled pattern effect on the surface of the woven fabric, giving it a leather-like surface pattern effect and texture. A wide range of fabric thicknesses can be obtained, from thick fabrics to thin spring fabrics. At the same time, a glossy mottled pattern effect can be obtained on the surface of the fabric, making it possible to develop products with high fashionability. Examples will be described below: As the warp, a polyester bright yarn with different shrinkage of 75 denier and 60 filaments was used, and as the weft, a polyester single-stage false twisted yarn with 75 denier and 36 filaments was used. is used for weaving as is without additional twisting, and the warp density is 250//
The fabric was composed of 8-ply satin weave with a weft density of 90 threads/inch. The fabric was processed under the following conditions. The relaxing treatment uses a spreading continuous relaxer. Pre-wet tank liquid temperature: 70°C Main tank liquid temperature: 95°C For high shrinkage treatment, a low bath ratio type liquid flow treatment device is used. Treatment liquid temperature x temperature 130℃ x 20 Bath ratio 1:10 Fabric speed 600m/min Heating time 3℃/min The shrinkage rate of the fabric due to this treatment is 25-26 in the warp direction
%, and 43-45% in the weft direction. After that, presetting and dyeing finishing were carried out as usual. The surface of the woven fabric had uneven luster with areas of high gloss and areas of low gloss, giving a surface effect similar to that of chinchilla fur, and was suitable for women's clothing. Comparative example: The fabric obtained by relaxing, presetting, and dyeing the same gray fabric as in Example 1 in the usual manner had no glossy mottled effect on the surface, and had a uniform appearance, with no surface changes. The surface of the fabric was significantly different from that obtained in the Examples.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1 経糸として、熱水収縮率差が10%以上である
複合合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸を用い、緯糸
に適宜糸を用いて、経糸が完全組織内で連続して
4本以上浮く朱子織織物を製織し、次いで、該織
物を100℃以上の液温度で無緊張、ロープ状で循
環回動させながら、高収縮処理し、次いでプリセ
ツト、染色、仕上げ加工することを特徴とする光
沢斑状模様効果を呈する織物の製造方法。 2 複合合成繊維マルチフイラメント糸が複合ポ
リエステルマルチブライトフイラメント糸である
特許請求の範囲第1項に記載した光沢斑状模様効
果を呈する織物の製造方法。
[Claims] 1. Composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn with a difference in hot water shrinkage rate of 10% or more is used as the warp, and an appropriate yarn is used as the weft, so that four or more warps are continuous in a complete structure. It is characterized by weaving a floating satin woven fabric, then subjecting the fabric to high shrinkage treatment while circulating the fabric in a rope-like manner without tension at a liquid temperature of 100°C or higher, and then presetting, dyeing, and finishing. A method for producing a fabric exhibiting a glossy mottled pattern effect. 2. The method for producing a fabric exhibiting a glossy mottled pattern effect as set forth in claim 1, wherein the composite synthetic fiber multifilament yarn is a composite polyester multibright filament yarn.
JP58153443A 1983-08-22 1983-08-22 Production of fabric showing gloss spot pattern effect Granted JPS6045664A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP58153443A JPS6045664A (en) 1983-08-22 1983-08-22 Production of fabric showing gloss spot pattern effect

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP58153443A JPS6045664A (en) 1983-08-22 1983-08-22 Production of fabric showing gloss spot pattern effect

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS6045664A JPS6045664A (en) 1985-03-12
JPH0379471B2 true JPH0379471B2 (en) 1991-12-18

Family

ID=15562650

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP58153443A Granted JPS6045664A (en) 1983-08-22 1983-08-22 Production of fabric showing gloss spot pattern effect

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS6045664A (en)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02277872A (en) * 1989-04-19 1990-11-14 Kanebo Ltd Production of chinchilla mottled dyed fabric
US5132189A (en) * 1989-09-07 1992-07-21 Fuji Electric Co., Ltd. Photoconductor for electrophotography
JPH03255453A (en) * 1990-01-17 1991-11-14 Fuji Electric Co Ltd Electrophotographic sensitive body
JP2770539B2 (en) * 1990-03-08 1998-07-02 富士電機株式会社 Electrophotographic photoreceptor

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5231166A (en) * 1975-09-05 1977-03-09 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Method of producing silkklike polyester woven goods
JPS5274073A (en) * 1975-12-10 1977-06-21 Kuraray Co Velourrlike melange textile made of long fiber and method of producing same
JPS5285566A (en) * 1976-01-09 1977-07-15 Teijin Ltd Method of producing staggered textile
JPS5517146A (en) * 1978-07-21 1980-02-06 Sutatsufu Yuugen Multipurpose overall plan table
JPS5545813A (en) * 1978-09-20 1980-03-31 Santo Tekkosho Kk Crepe finishing method and apparatus of fabric
JPS56148939A (en) * 1980-04-15 1981-11-18 Teijin Ltd Polyester fiber woven knitted fabric and method
JPS57210061A (en) * 1981-06-19 1982-12-23 Teijin Ltd Production of rinna fabric

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5231166A (en) * 1975-09-05 1977-03-09 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Method of producing silkklike polyester woven goods
JPS5274073A (en) * 1975-12-10 1977-06-21 Kuraray Co Velourrlike melange textile made of long fiber and method of producing same
JPS5285566A (en) * 1976-01-09 1977-07-15 Teijin Ltd Method of producing staggered textile
JPS5517146A (en) * 1978-07-21 1980-02-06 Sutatsufu Yuugen Multipurpose overall plan table
JPS5545813A (en) * 1978-09-20 1980-03-31 Santo Tekkosho Kk Crepe finishing method and apparatus of fabric
JPS56148939A (en) * 1980-04-15 1981-11-18 Teijin Ltd Polyester fiber woven knitted fabric and method
JPS57210061A (en) * 1981-06-19 1982-12-23 Teijin Ltd Production of rinna fabric

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS6045664A (en) 1985-03-12

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