JP5777083B2 - Hair deformation treatment method - Google Patents
Hair deformation treatment method Download PDFInfo
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- JP5777083B2 JP5777083B2 JP2010122224A JP2010122224A JP5777083B2 JP 5777083 B2 JP5777083 B2 JP 5777083B2 JP 2010122224 A JP2010122224 A JP 2010122224A JP 2010122224 A JP2010122224 A JP 2010122224A JP 5777083 B2 JP5777083 B2 JP 5777083B2
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- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims description 261
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 50
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 106
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- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 17
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium sulfite Chemical group [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])=O GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 9
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- DWAQJAXMDSEUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium bisulfite Chemical group [Na+].OS([O-])=O DWAQJAXMDSEUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003672 processing method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000010267 sodium hydrogen sulphite Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 28
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 15
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- QSHDDOUJBYECFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N mercury Chemical compound [Hg] QSHDDOUJBYECFT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052753 mercury Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- DJEHXEMURTVAOE-UHFFFAOYSA-M potassium bisulfite Chemical compound [K+].OS([O-])=O DJEHXEMURTVAOE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940099427 potassium bisulfite Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010259 potassium hydrogen sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- BHZRJJOHZFYXTO-UHFFFAOYSA-L potassium sulfite Chemical compound [K+].[K+].[O-]S([O-])=O BHZRJJOHZFYXTO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 235000019252 potassium sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- XUXNAKZDHHEHPC-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium bromate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]Br(=O)=O XUXNAKZDHHEHPC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- 229940071127 thioglycolate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-M thioglycolate(1-) Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D2007/005—Processes or methods of undoing hair, i.e. removing a hair dressing
Landscapes
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Thermal Sciences (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、毛髪変形能を有する1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いて毛髪にストレート性を付与するための毛髪変形処理方法に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a hair deformation treatment method for imparting straightness to hair using a one-component hair treatment agent having hair deformability.
毛髪にストレート性を付与するには様々な方法があるが、代表的なものに、縮毛矯正剤を用いた処理方法がある。この縮毛矯正処理は、一般に、縮毛中のジスルフィド結合を還元剤により開列させてメルカプト基を生成させ、コームなどの器具を用いてストレート(真っ直ぐ)に伸ばし、この状態で酸化剤を用いて、元とは異なる位置で新たなジスルフィド結合を再形成することで、縮毛をストレートにする処理である。 There are various methods for imparting straightness to hair, but a typical one is a treatment method using a hair straightener. In this straightening treatment, generally, a disulfide bond in curly hair is opened with a reducing agent to generate a mercapto group, which is straightened with a device such as a comb, and an oxidant is used in this state. This is a process for straightening curly hair by re-forming a new disulfide bond at a position different from the original.
こうしたことから、縮毛矯正処理では、還元剤を配合した第1剤と、酸化剤を配合した第2剤とで構成される2剤式の毛髪処理剤を使用することが通常である(特許文献1、2など)。 For these reasons, it is normal to use a two-component hair treatment agent composed of a first agent blended with a reducing agent and a second agent blended with an oxidizing agent in straightening treatment (patent) References 1, 2, etc.).
ところで、2剤式の毛髪処理剤を用いた縮毛矯正処理では、上記の通り、還元剤を配合した第1剤を縮毛に塗布する工程、次いで縮毛を伸ばす工程、伸ばした縮毛に酸化剤を配合した第2剤を塗布する工程が必須となり、更に、各工程間に毛髪(縮毛)を洗浄する工程や乾燥する工程も設けられることが通常であるため、処理開始から終了までの時間が通常3〜5時間と非常に長くなる。こうしたことから、縮毛にストレート性を付与する処理を、より短時間で完了できる方法が求められている。 By the way, in the hair straightening treatment using the two-component hair treatment agent, as described above, the step of applying the first agent containing the reducing agent to the curly hair, the step of extending the curly hair, The process of applying the second agent containing the oxidizing agent is essential, and furthermore, there is usually a process of washing hair (curly hair) and a process of drying between each process, so from the start to the end of the process. Is usually very long, 3-5 hours. For these reasons, there is a need for a method that can complete the treatment for imparting straightness to curly hair in a shorter time.
そこで、1剤式の毛髪処理剤を用いて工程数を減らした縮毛矯正処理方法も検討されている。毛髪のジスルフィド結合を切断するための還元剤と、還元により生成したメルカプト基を酸化するための酸化剤とを、1つの処理剤中に配合して両者の機能を有効に引き出すことは困難であることから、例えば、1剤式の毛髪処理剤には還元剤を配合し、これにより生成する縮毛中のメルカプト基から、空気による酸化などでジスルフィド結合を再形成することが考えられる。 Therefore, a curly hair straightening treatment method in which the number of steps is reduced by using a one-component hair treatment agent has been studied. It is difficult to combine the reducing agent for breaking the disulfide bond of hair and the oxidizing agent for oxidizing the mercapto group generated by the reduction into one treatment agent to effectively bring out the functions of both. For this reason, for example, it is conceivable that a reducing agent is blended in a one-component hair treatment agent, and a disulfide bond is reformed from the mercapto group in the curly hair generated thereby by oxidation with air or the like.
しかしながら、還元剤により生成したメルカプト基を酸化剤を使用せずに酸化して、ジスルフィド結合を十分に再形成することは困難であり、このような毛髪処理剤を用いた場合、特に毛先がちりつく問題がある。 However, it is difficult to oxidize the mercapto group produced by the reducing agent without using an oxidizing agent to sufficiently re-form the disulfide bond. There is a problem of sticking.
こうしたことから、縮毛矯正処理ほどの手間や時間をかけることなく、毛髪にストレート性を付与でき、かつ処理後の毛先のちりつきを抑え得る処理方法の開発が求められる。 For these reasons, there is a need for the development of a treatment method that can impart straightness to the hair and can suppress the stickiness of the hair after the treatment without taking as much labor and time as the curly hair straightening treatment.
本発明は、上記事情に鑑みてなされたものであり、その目的は、処理後の毛髪における毛先のちりつきを抑えつつ、毛髪に良好なストレート性を付与し得る毛髪変形処理方法を提供することにある。 This invention is made | formed in view of the said situation, The objective provides the hair deformation processing method which can provide favorable straightness to hair, suppressing the sticking of the hair tip in the hair after a process. There is.
上記目的を達成し得た本発明の毛髪変形処理方法は、少なくとも1種の亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合したpHが6〜10の1剤式毛髪処理剤を、毛髪に塗布する工程(I)と、上記工程(I)の後に上記毛髪に220℃超の熱を加えて、前記毛髪にストレート性を付与する工程(II)とを有することを特徴とする。 The hair deformation treatment method of the present invention that has achieved the above object comprises a step of applying to a hair a one-component hair treatment agent having a pH of 6 to 10 and containing at least one sulfite or bisulfite (I And a step (II) of adding heat to the hair after the step (I) to impart straightness to the hair.
縮毛矯正に使用される毛髪処理剤には、還元剤として、チオグリコール酸やその塩、システインやその塩などが使用されることが一般的であるが、これらの還元剤は、上記の通り、毛髪中のジスルフィド結合を還元により切断する機能が優れている。そのため、このような還元剤を配合した毛髪処理剤により処理した縮毛は、その内部の多くのジスルフィド結合が切断されてメルカプト基が生成しているため、これらのメルカプト基を酸化剤によって酸化して、ジスルフィド結合を再形成しなければ、特に毛先にちりつきが生じるなどしてしまう。 Generally, thioglycolic acid or a salt thereof, cysteine or a salt thereof, or the like is used as a reducing agent in a hair treatment agent used for straightening hair. These reducing agents are as described above. The function of cleaving disulfide bonds in hair by reduction is excellent. For this reason, curly hair treated with a hair treatment agent containing such a reducing agent has a number of disulfide bonds cleaved to form mercapto groups, so these mercapto groups are oxidized by an oxidizing agent. Thus, if the disulfide bond is not re-formed, the hair ends will be particularly stuck.
亜硫酸塩や亜硫酸水素塩も毛髪処理剤の還元剤として知られているが、本発明者らは、亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合した毛髪処理剤によれば、予想に反して、他の還元剤を配合した毛髪処理剤とは異なり、ジスルフィド結合の還元による切断が殆ど生じないことを見出した。 Although sulfites and bisulfites are also known as reducing agents for hair treatment agents, the present inventors, according to hair treatment agents containing sulfites or bisulfites, unexpectedly reduced other reductions. It was found that, unlike a hair treatment agent containing an agent, cleavage by reduction of disulfide bonds hardly occurs.
その一方で、亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合した毛髪処理剤では、縮毛の矯正能が劣るが、この毛髪処理剤を塗布した縮毛を、220℃を超える温度で処理すれば、その縮みを伸ばして良好なストレート形状に矯正できることを見出した。また、チオグリコール酸やその塩、システインやその塩などの還元剤を配合した毛髪処理剤を塗布した縮毛では、220℃を超える温度で処理するとジスルフィド結合の切断が更に進行するが、亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合した毛髪処理剤を塗布した縮毛では、220℃を超える温度で処理をしてもジスルフィド結合の切断が進行しないことも見出した。 On the other hand, a hair treatment agent containing sulfite or bisulfite has poor curly straightening ability. However, if the curly hair applied with this hair treatment agent is treated at a temperature exceeding 220 ° C., the shrinkage is reduced. It was found that it can be corrected to a good straight shape by stretching. In the case of curly hair coated with a hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid or its salt or cysteine or its salt, the cleavage of disulfide bonds further proceeds when treated at a temperature exceeding 220 ° C. It was also found that in the case of curly hair coated with a hair treatment agent containing hydrogen sulfite, the cleavage of disulfide bonds does not proceed even when the treatment is performed at a temperature exceeding 220 ° C.
本発明の毛髪変形処理方法では、このような知見に基づき、亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合しpHを6〜10とした1剤式の毛髪処理剤を使用し、これを塗布した毛髪(縮毛)を、220℃を超える温度で処理することとした。本発明の毛髪変形処理方法によれば、例えば、従来の2剤式の縮毛矯正剤を用いた処理方法のように、半永久的に毛髪にストレート性を付与するには至らないが、かかる処理方法よりも処理完了までの工程数が少なく処理時間を短くでき、また、1剤式の縮毛矯正剤を使用した処理方法で生じ得る処理後の毛髪における毛先のちりつきを抑えつつ、比較的長期にわたって持続する良好なストレート性を、毛髪に付与することができる。 In the hair deformation treatment method of the present invention, based on such knowledge, a one-component hair treatment agent containing sulfite or bisulfite and having a pH of 6 to 10 is used. Hair) was treated at a temperature exceeding 220 ° C. According to the hair deformation treatment method of the present invention, for example, as in the case of a treatment method using a conventional two-component hair straightener, it does not lead to imparting straightness to the hair semipermanently. Compared with the method, the number of steps to complete the treatment is less and the treatment time can be shortened, and the hair ends after the treatment, which can occur in the treatment method using a one-part hair straightener, are suppressed. Good straightness that lasts for a long time can be imparted to the hair.
本発明によれば、処理後の毛髪における毛先のちりつきを抑えつつ、毛髪に良好なストレート性を付与し得る毛髪変形処理方法を提供することができる。 ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the hair deformation | transformation processing method which can provide favorable straightness to hair can be provided, suppressing the sticking of the hair tip in the hair after a process.
本発明法に係る工程(I)は、1剤式毛髪処理剤を毛髪(縮毛)に塗布する工程である。 Step (I) according to the method of the present invention is a step of applying a one-component hair treatment agent to hair (curly hair).
工程(I)で使用する1剤式毛髪処理剤は、毛髪変形能を有しており、少なくとも1種の亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合したものである。 The one-component hair treatment agent used in the step (I) has hair deformability and is a mixture of at least one sulfite or bisulfite.
1剤式毛髪処理剤に配合し得る亜硫酸塩としては、例えば、亜硫酸ナトリウム、亜硫酸カリウム、亜硫酸カルシウム、亜硫酸バリウム、亜硫酸アンモニウムなどが挙げられる。また、1剤式毛髪処理剤に配合し得る亜硫酸水素塩としては、例えば、亜硫酸水素ナトリウム、亜硫酸水素カリウム、亜硫酸水素アンモニウムなどが挙げられる。1剤式毛髪処理剤には、上記の亜硫酸塩および亜硫酸水素塩の中から、1種のみを使用してもよく、複数種の亜硫酸塩または複数種の亜硫酸水素塩を使用してもよく、更に、1種以上の亜流酸塩と1種以上の亜硫酸水素塩とを併用してもよい。これらの中でも、安定性や安全性の面から、亜硫酸ナトリウムまたは亜硫酸水素ナトリウムが好ましい。 Examples of sulfites that can be blended in a one-component hair treatment agent include sodium sulfite, potassium sulfite, calcium sulfite, barium sulfite, and ammonium sulfite. Examples of the bisulfite that can be blended in the one-component hair treatment agent include sodium bisulfite, potassium bisulfite, and ammonium bisulfite. For single-agent hair treatment agents, only one of the above sulfites and bisulfites may be used, or multiple types of sulfites or multiple types of bisulfites may be used, Furthermore, you may use together 1 or more types of sulfite and 1 or more types of bisulfite. Among these, sodium sulfite or sodium hydrogen sulfite is preferable from the viewpoint of stability and safety.
1剤式毛髪処理剤における亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩の配合量(1剤式毛髪処理剤に、亜流酸塩と亜硫酸水素塩の両者が配合されている場合は、その合計量。1剤式毛髪処理剤における亜流酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩の配合量について、以下同じ。)は、その使用による効果(縮毛をストレート形状に矯正する効果)をより良好に確保する観点から、0.5質量%以上であることが好ましく、4質量%以上であることがより好ましい。ただし、1剤式毛髪処理剤中の亜硫酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩の量が多すぎると、毛髪変形能が低下する虞があることに加えて、毛先のちりつきを抑える効果が小さくなる虞がある。よって、1剤式毛髪処理剤における亜硫酸塩の配合量は、10質量%以下であることが好ましく、8質量%以下であることがより好ましい。 Blending amount of sulfite or bisulfite in single-agent hair treatment agent (if sulfite and bisulfite are blended in single-agent hair treatment agent, the total amount. One-component hair The same applies to the blending amount of sulfite or bisulfite in the treatment agent.) Is 0.5% by mass from the viewpoint of better securing the effect (the effect of straightening curly hair into a straight shape). Preferably, it is preferably 4% by mass or more. However, if the amount of sulfite or bisulfite in the one-component hair treatment agent is too large, the hair deformability may be lowered, and the effect of suppressing the sticking of the hair tip may be reduced. is there. Therefore, the blending amount of sulfite in the one-component hair treatment agent is preferably 10% by mass or less, and more preferably 8% by mass or less.
なお、一般に、亜流酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩は、酸性領域において還元能が高くなることが知られているが、本発明法においては、1剤式毛髪処理剤のpHを6〜10に調整することで、毛髪変形能を高めるとともに、処理後の毛先のちりつきの抑制を可能としている。 In general, sulfite or bisulfite is known to have high reducing ability in the acidic region, but in the method of the present invention, the pH of the one-component hair treatment agent is adjusted to 6-10. In this way, the hair deformability is enhanced, and the hair ends after the treatment can be prevented from sticking.
1剤式毛髪処理剤のpHは、例えば、必要に応じて、1剤式毛髪処理剤にアルカリ剤を配合することによって調整することができる。このようなアルカリ剤としては、炭酸ナトリウム、炭酸水素アンモニウム、アンモニア水、水酸化カリウム、水酸化ナトリウム、ホウ酸ナトリウム、モノエタノールアミン、ジエタノールアミン、トリエタノールアミンなどが挙げられる。 The pH of the one-component hair treatment agent can be adjusted, for example, by blending an alkali agent with the one-component hair treatment agent, if necessary. Examples of such an alkaline agent include sodium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, aqueous ammonia, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, sodium borate, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine.
1剤式毛髪処理剤は、水を主たる媒体とする。なお、本明細書でいう「水を主たる媒体とする」とは、1剤式毛髪処理剤における全媒体中、水の量が50質量%以上であることを意味している。媒体には、水のみを用いてもよく、必要に応じて、エタノール、イソプロパノールなどの低級アルコール(炭素数が6以下のアルコール)などの有機溶媒を水と併用してもよい。また、1剤式毛髪処理剤における媒体の配合量は、例えば、40〜95質量%であることが好ましい。 The single-agent hair treatment agent uses water as the main medium. As used herein, “with water as the main medium” means that the amount of water is 50% by mass or more in the entire medium of the one-component hair treatment agent. As the medium, only water may be used, and if necessary, an organic solvent such as lower alcohol (alcohol having 6 or less carbon atoms) such as ethanol and isopropanol may be used in combination with water. Moreover, it is preferable that the compounding quantity of the medium in 1 agent type hair treatment agent is 40-95 mass%, for example.
また、1剤式毛髪処理剤には、ジチオジグリコール酸塩が配合されていることが好ましく、これにより、縮毛矯正効果をより高めて処理後の毛髪の伸びをより良好にすることが可能となる他、処理後の毛髪のやわらかさを高めることも可能となる。 Moreover, it is preferable that dithiodiglycolate is blended in the one-component hair treatment agent, which can enhance the hair straightening effect and improve the elongation of the hair after treatment. In addition, the softness of the hair after treatment can be increased.
ジチオジグリコール酸塩としては、例えば、ジチオジグリコール酸ジアンモニウム、ジチオジグリコール酸ジモノエタノールアミン、ジチオジグリコール酸ジトリエタノールアミンなどが挙げられ、これらのうちの1種のみを用いてもよく、2種以上を併用してもよい。 Examples of the dithiodiglycolate include diammonium dithiodiglycolate, dimonoethanolamine dithiodiglycolate, ditriethanolamine dithiodiglycolate, and only one of these may be used. Two or more kinds may be used in combination.
1剤式毛髪処理剤におけるジチオジグルコール酸塩の配合量は、その使用による効果をより良好に確保する観点から、0.5質量%以上であることが好ましい。ただし、1剤式毛髪処理剤中のジチオジグリコール酸塩量が多すぎると、施術中に生じる不快臭が強くなる傾向がある。よって、1剤式毛髪処理剤におけるジチオジグリコール酸塩の配合量は、10質量%以下であることが好ましい。 The blending amount of the dithiodiglycolate in the one-component hair treatment agent is preferably 0.5% by mass or more from the viewpoint of ensuring better the effect of its use. However, if the amount of dithiodiglycolate in the one-component hair treatment agent is too large, the unpleasant odor generated during the treatment tends to be strong. Therefore, it is preferable that the compounding quantity of the dithiodiglycolate in 1 agent type hair treatment agent is 10 mass% or less.
また、1剤式毛髪処理剤には、水溶性高分子を配合することが好ましく、これにより、1剤式毛髪処理剤の粘度を大きくして操作性を高めることができ、例えば、縮毛への塗布をより容易とすることが可能となる。また、水溶性高分子を配合することで、処理後の毛先のちりつきを、より良好に抑えることができるようになる。 Moreover, it is preferable to mix | blend a water-soluble polymer with 1 agent type hair treatment agent, and this can enlarge the viscosity of 1 agent type hair treatment agent, and can improve operativity, for example, to curly hair Can be more easily applied. In addition, by blending the water-soluble polymer, it is possible to more favorably suppress the stickiness of the hair ends after the treatment.
水溶性高分子としては、例えば、カラギーナン、寒天、キサンタンガム、ゼラチン、ペクチン、タマリンド種子多糖類、ローカストビーンガム、グアーガム、アラビアガム、トラガカントガム、ヒアルロン酸またはその塩、キトサンなどの天然高分子;メチルセルロース、エチルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロース、カチオン化セルロース、デンプンリン酸エステル、デンプングルコール酸ナトリウム、両性デンプン、カチオン化グアーガム、カルボキシメチル・ヒドロキシプロピル化グアーガム、ヒドロキシプロピル化グアーガムなどの天然高分子誘導体;ポリビニルピロリドン、カルボキシビニルポリマー、アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体などの合成高分子;などが挙げられ、これらのうちの1種のみを用いてもよく、2種以上を併用してもよい。 Examples of the water-soluble polymer include natural polymers such as carrageenan, agar, xanthan gum, gelatin, pectin, tamarind seed polysaccharide, locust bean gum, guar gum, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, and chitosan; Ethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, cationized cellulose, starch phosphate ester, sodium starch glycolate, amphoteric starch, cationized guar gum, carboxymethyl hydroxypropylated guar gum, hydroxypropylated guar gum Natural polymer derivatives such as polyvinylpyrrolidone, carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / meta Synthetic polymers such as acrylic acid alkyl copolymer; and the like, may be used only one of these may be used in combination of two or more.
1剤式毛髪処理剤における水溶性高分子の配合量は、その使用による効果をより良好に確保する観点から、1質量%以上であることが好ましい。ただし、1剤式毛髪処理剤中の水溶性高分子量が多すぎると、1剤式毛髪処理剤の粘度が大きくなりすぎて、却ってその操作性が低下する虞がある。よって、1剤式毛髪処理剤における水溶性高分子の配合量は、10質量%以下であることが好ましい。 The blending amount of the water-soluble polymer in the one-component hair treatment agent is preferably 1% by mass or more from the viewpoint of better ensuring the effect of its use. However, if the water-soluble high molecular weight in the one-component hair treatment agent is too large, the viscosity of the one-component hair treatment agent becomes too high, and the operability may be lowered. Therefore, it is preferable that the compounding quantity of the water-soluble polymer in 1 agent type hair treatment agent is 10 mass% or less.
また、1剤式毛髪処理剤には、上記の各成分以外にも、通常の毛髪化粧料で使用されている各種成分を、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で配合することができる。 In addition to the above-described components, the one-component hair treatment agent can be blended with various components used in normal hair cosmetics as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
1剤式毛髪処理剤の剤型については特に制限はなく、ローション状、乳液状、クリーム状、ジェル状など、いずれの剤型としてもよい。 There is no restriction | limiting in particular about the dosage form of 1 agent type hair treatment agent, It is good also as any dosage forms, such as lotion shape, emulsion, cream shape, and gel shape.
工程(I)において、1剤式毛髪処理剤を塗布した縮毛は、例えば、3〜30分程度放置し、その後に工程(II)を行うことが好ましい。これにより、1剤式毛髪処理剤を縮毛中に良好に浸透させ、毛髪にストレート性を付与する効果をより高めることができる。 In the step (I), it is preferable that the curly hair to which the one-component hair treatment agent is applied is left, for example, for about 3 to 30 minutes, and then the step (II) is performed. Thereby, the 1 agent type hair treatment agent can penetrate | invade favorably in curly hair, and the effect which provides straightness to hair can be heightened more.
本発明法に係る工程(II)は、1剤式毛髪処理剤を塗布した後の縮毛に熱を加える工程であり、この工程によって、縮毛を良好なストレート形状とする。 Step (II) according to the method of the present invention is a step of applying heat to the curly hair after applying the one-component hair treatment agent, and this step makes the curly hair a good straight shape.
工程(II)では、縮毛に220℃を超える熱を加える。このときの温度が低すぎると、縮毛に良好なストレート形状を付与できない。工程(II)で縮毛に加える熱の温度は、ストレート性の付与効果をより高め得ることから、225℃以上であることが好ましく、230℃以上であることがより好ましい。ただし、縮毛に加える熱の温度が高すぎると、縮毛が損傷する虞があることから、その温度は、250℃以下であることが好ましい。 In step (II), heat exceeding 220 ° C. is applied to the curly hair. If the temperature at this time is too low, a good straight shape cannot be imparted to curly hair. The temperature of the heat applied to the curly hair in the step (II) is preferably 225 ° C. or higher, and more preferably 230 ° C. or higher because the effect of imparting straightness can be further enhanced. However, if the temperature of heat applied to the curly hair is too high, the curly hair may be damaged. Therefore, the temperature is preferably 250 ° C. or lower.
なお、工程(II)においては、縮毛をストレート形状に伸ばした状態で熱を加えるが、具体的には、例えば、温度が220℃超のストレート用ヘアアイロンのプレート部に、ストレート形状に伸ばした縮毛を挟み、従来のように単にプレスするのではなく、根元から毛先にかけて流すような方法で、縮毛に熱を加えることが好ましい。 In step (II), heat is applied in a state where the curly hair is stretched into a straight shape. Specifically, for example, the hair is stretched into a straight shape on a plate portion of a straight hair iron having a temperature exceeding 220 ° C. It is preferable to apply heat to the curly hair by a method in which the curly hair is sandwiched between the roots and the ends of the hair instead of being simply pressed as in the prior art.
ストレート用ヘアアイロンとしては、そのプレート部の温度(ただし、表面温度)を220℃超に加熱でき、毛髪を加熱下でストレート化できるものであればよく、特に特定のものに限られることなく、各種のものを用い得る。 As a hair curling iron, the temperature of the plate part (however, the surface temperature) can be heated to more than 220 ° C., and any hair can be straightened under heating, and is not limited to a specific one. Various things can be used.
なお、工程(II)は、工程(I)において1剤式毛髪処理剤を塗布した縮毛を、好ましくは上記の時間放置した直後に実施してもよいが、上記放置後に縮毛を水洗する工程を設け、その後に工程(II)を実施してもよい。これにより、毛髪にストレート性を付与する効果をより高めることができる。 The step (II) may be carried out immediately after the curly hair coated with the one-component hair treatment agent in the step (I) is allowed to stand for the above-mentioned time, but after the standing, the curly hair is washed with water. A step may be provided, and then step (II) may be performed. Thereby, the effect which provides straightness to hair can be heightened more.
また、工程(I)の後の上記水洗工程の後に、縮毛を乾燥する工程を設け、その後に工程(II)を実施してもよい。なお、この乾燥工程では、縮毛に水分の一部が残った状態とすることが好ましく、これにより、毛髪にストレート性を付与する効果を更に高めることができる。 Moreover, the process of drying a curly hair may be provided after the said water washing process after process (I), and process (II) may be implemented after that. In this drying step, it is preferable that a part of the moisture remains in the curly hair, thereby further enhancing the effect of imparting straightness to the hair.
工程(II)の後には、必要に応じて、毛髪を洗浄し乾燥する工程を設けてもよい。また、工程(I)に先立って、縮毛を洗浄する工程や、更に洗浄後に縮毛を乾燥する工程を設けてもよい。 After step (II), if necessary, a step of washing and drying hair may be provided. Prior to step (I), a step of washing curly hair and a step of drying curly hair after washing may be provided.
本発明法では、2剤式の毛髪処理剤を使用する従来の縮毛矯正処理方法とは異なり、酸化剤を配合した第2剤を毛髪に塗布し、ストレート形状を固定化する工程、およびそれに付随する第2剤を洗い流すための洗浄工程や、その後の乾燥工程などを省略できるため、例えば、1時間以内(更には30分以内)で処理を完了することができ、従来の縮毛矯正処理方法よりも、処理時間を大幅に短縮することが可能となる。 In the method of the present invention, unlike the conventional hair straightening treatment method using a two-component hair treatment agent, a step of applying a second agent containing an oxidizing agent to the hair and fixing the straight shape, and Since the washing process for washing away the second agent and the subsequent drying process can be omitted, for example, the treatment can be completed within 1 hour (or within 30 minutes), and the conventional hair straightening treatment Compared with the method, the processing time can be significantly shortened.
以下、実施例に基づいて本発明を詳細に述べる。ただし、下記実施例は本発明を制限するものではない。なお、以下の実施例などにおいて、「%」は「質量%」を意味している。また、1剤式毛髪処理剤の配合量としては、全体で100%となるように各成分の配合量を%で示し、後記の表1〜表3中ではその%の表示を省略し、配合量を表す数値のみで表示する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on examples. However, the following examples do not limit the present invention. In the following examples, “%” means “mass%”. Moreover, as a compounding quantity of 1 agent type hair treatment agent, the compounding quantity of each component is shown by% so that it may become 100% on the whole, and the display of the% is abbreviate | omitted in Table 1-Table 3 of a postscript, and mix | blending Display only numerical values representing quantities.
実験1:毛髪変形処理方法による効果確認試験
<1剤式毛髪処理剤の調製>
調製例1〜18の1剤式毛髪処理剤を、表1〜表3に示す組成で調製した。
Experiment 1: Effect confirmation test by hair deformation treatment method <Preparation of one-component hair treatment agent>
One-component hair treatment agents of Preparation Examples 1 to 18 were prepared with the compositions shown in Tables 1 to 3.
なお、表1〜表3における水の欄の「計100とする」とは、1剤式毛髪処理剤を構成する水以外の各成分の合計量に、水の量を加えて100%となるようにしたことを意味している。また、表1〜表3に記載の「ポリオキシエチレンセチルエーテル(5.5EO)」における「5.5E.O.」とは、酸化エチレンの平均付加モル数が5.5であることを意味している。更に、表1〜表3における「モノエタノールアミン液」および「リン酸水溶液」の欄の「適量」とは、各1剤式毛髪処理剤のpHが各表に示す値となる量だけ用いたことを意味している。 In Tables 1 to 3, the column “Water” is “100”, and the total amount of each component other than water constituting the one-component hair treatment agent is 100% by adding the amount of water. It means that I did it. Further, “5.5EO” in “polyoxyethylene cetyl ether (5.5EO)” described in Tables 1 to 3 means that the average number of moles of ethylene oxide added is 5.5. doing. Furthermore, “appropriate amount” in the columns of “monoethanolamine solution” and “phosphoric acid aqueous solution” in Tables 1 to 3 was used in such an amount that the pH of each one-component hair treatment agent was a value shown in each table. It means that.
<処理後の毛髪の評価>
調製例1〜18の1剤式毛髪処理剤を使用して毛髪変形処理を行い、処理後の毛髪の伸び、毛先のちりつき、およびやわらかさについて評価を行った。
<Evaluation of hair after treatment>
The hair deformation treatment was performed using the one-component hair treatment agents of Preparation Examples 1 to 18, and evaluation was performed on the elongation of the hair after the treatment, the stickiness of the hair ends, and the softness.
まず、同一人から、長さ25cm(伸ばさずに、自然の状態で測定した長さ)の縮毛を多数採取し、これらを1.5gずつ纏めて複数の毛束を作製した。これらの毛束を、10%ラウレス硫酸ナトリウム水溶液で洗浄し、水洗した後、乾燥して、試験用毛束とした。 First, a large number of curly hairs having a length of 25 cm (length measured in a natural state without being stretched) were collected from the same person, and 1.5 g each was collected to prepare a plurality of hair bundles. These hair bundles were washed with a 10% sodium laureth aqueous solution, washed with water, and then dried to obtain test hair bundles.
各試験用毛束に1剤式毛髪処理剤2gを塗布した後、50℃に加温した状態で15分放置し、その後水洗し、一部の水分を残した状態に乾燥した。そして、これらの試験用毛束を所定温度に加熱したストレート用ヘアアイロンのプレート部間に挟み、根元から毛先側に向けて流すように通して処理を完了した。なお、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱温度は、180℃、200℃および230℃とした。 After applying 2 g of 1-component hair treatment agent to each test hair bundle, it was left to stand for 15 minutes while being heated to 50 ° C., then washed with water and dried to leave some moisture. Then, these test hair bundles were sandwiched between plate portions of a straight hair iron heated to a predetermined temperature, and passed through from the root toward the hair tip side to complete the treatment. In addition, the heating temperature by the straight hair iron was 180 degreeC, 200 degreeC, and 230 degreeC.
そして、処理後の各試験用毛束に係る毛髪の伸び(良好なストレート形状を付与できていること)、毛先のちりつき、およびやわらかさについて、5人の専門のパネラーが、下記基準に従って評価し、点数付けを行った。 And 5 expert panelists according to the following standard about the elongation of the hair concerning each test hair bundle after the treatment (being able to give a good straight shape), the tip of the hair, and the softness Evaluated and scored.
(毛髪の伸びの評価基準)
伸びていない ・・・ 0点、
やや伸びている ・・・ 1点、
伸びている ・・・ 2点。
(Evaluation criteria for hair elongation)
Not stretched ... 0 points,
Slightly growing ... 1 point,
Elongating ... 2 points.
(毛先のちりつきの評価基準)
ちりついている ・・・ 0点、
ややちりついている ・・・ 1点、
外観上ちりついていないが、触るとちりついていることが分かる ・・・ 2点、
ちりついていない ・・・ 3点。
(Evaluation criteria for sticking of hair ends)
Sticking ... 0 points,
Slightly stuck ... 1 point,
It is not dusty in appearance, but it can be seen that it is dusty when touched.
Not sticking ... 3 points.
(毛髪のやわらかさの評価基準)
未処理毛と比較して硬い ・・・ 0点、
未処理毛とほぼ同じ ・・・ 1点、
未処理毛と比較してやわらかい ・・・ 2点、
未処理毛と比較してかなりやわらかい ・・・ 3点。
(Evaluation criteria for softness of hair)
Hard compared to untreated hair ... 0 points,
Same as untreated hair ... 1 point,
Softer than untreated hair ... 2 points
Compared to untreated hair, it is quite soft ... 3 points.
更に、各評価結果について、全パネラーの点数の平均値を求め、下記基準に従って、処理後の各試験用毛束に係る毛髪の伸び、毛先のちりつき、およびやわらかさを判定した。 Furthermore, about each evaluation result, the average value of the score of all the panelists was calculated | required, and the elongation of the hair which concerns on each test hair bundle after a process, the stickiness of a hair tip, and softness were determined according to the following reference | standard.
(毛髪の伸び)
0点以上、1.6点未満 : 伸びていない、
1.6点以上 : 伸びている。
(Hair elongation)
0 points or more and less than 1.6 points: not stretched,
1.6 points or more: Stretched.
(毛先のちりつき)
0点以上、2.2点未満 : ちりついている、
2.2点以上、2.6点未満 : 殆どちりついていない、
2.6点以上 : ちりついていない。
(Dust attached to the hair ends)
0 points or more and less than 2.2 points:
2.2 points or more and less than 2.6 points: hardly sticking,
2.6 or more: Not sticking.
(毛髪のやわらかさ)
0点以上、2点未満 : やわらかさを感じない、
2点以上、2.4点未満 : やわらかい、
2.4点以上 : かなりやわらかい。
(Softness of hair)
0 points or more and less than 2 points: Does not feel soft,
2 points or more and less than 2.4 points: soft,
2.4 or higher: Pretty soft.
これらの結果のうち、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱温度を180℃とした場合(比較例1〜18)を表4に、200℃とした場合(比較例19〜36)を表5に、230℃とした場合(比較例37〜41および実施例1〜13)を表6に、それぞれ示す。 Among these results, when the heating temperature by the straight hair iron is 180 ° C. (Comparative Examples 1 to 18) is shown in Table 4, and when 200 ° C. (Comparative Examples 19 to 36) is shown in Table 5, 230 ° C. Table 6 shows the cases (Comparative Examples 37 to 41 and Examples 1 to 13).
表4〜表6に示す通り、適正な組成およびpHの1剤式毛髪処理剤を使用し、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱を適正な温度で行った実施例1〜13の毛髪変形処理方法によれば、処理後の毛髪の伸びが良く、良好なストレート形状にできており、かつ毛先のちりつきも抑えられている。また、これら実施例1〜13の毛髪変形処理方法による処理後の毛髪は、やわらかさも良好である。 As shown in Tables 4 to 6, according to the hair deformation treatment method of Examples 1 to 13 in which a one-component hair treatment agent having an appropriate composition and pH was used and heating with a hair straightener was performed at an appropriate temperature. For example, the hair after the treatment has good elongation, a good straight shape, and the tip of the hair is prevented from sticking. Moreover, the hair after the treatment by the hair deformation treatment method of Examples 1 to 13 has good softness.
これに対し、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱温度が不適な比較例1〜36の毛髪変形処理方法では、特に処理後の毛髪の伸びが不十分で、良好なストレート形状とすることができていない。また、これらの処理方法による処理後の毛髪の一部では、毛先にちりつきが生じていたり、やわらかさが劣っている。 On the other hand, in the hair deformation treatment method of Comparative Examples 1-36 in which the heating temperature by the straight hair iron is not suitable, the elongation of the hair after the treatment is particularly insufficient and a good straight shape cannot be obtained. In addition, some of the hairs after the treatment by these treatment methods are dusty or inferior in softness.
一方、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱温度は適正であるが、亜流酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩に代えて通常の縮毛矯正剤に使用されている還元剤を配合した1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いた比較例37〜39の毛髪変形処理方法では、処理後の毛髪の伸びは良好であったものの、毛先にちりつきが生じている。 On the other hand, although the heating temperature with a straight hair iron is appropriate, a one-component hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent used in a normal hair straightener instead of sulfite or bisulfite was used. In the hair deformation treatment methods of Comparative Examples 37 to 39, although the elongation of the hair after the treatment was good, the hair tips were stuck.
また、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱温度は適正であるが、pHが不適な1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いた比較例40および比較例41の毛髪変形処理方法のうち、pHが低すぎる1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いた比較例40の毛髪変形処理方法の場合、処理後の毛髪の伸びが不十分であり、また、pHが高すぎる1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いた比較例41の毛髪変形処理方法の場合には、処理後の毛髪の毛先にちりつきが生じている。 In addition, among the hair deformation treatment methods of Comparative Example 40 and Comparative Example 41 using a one-component hair treatment agent having an appropriate pH but an inappropriate pH, the one-component method in which the pH is too low. In the case of the hair deformation treatment method of Comparative Example 40 using the hair treatment agent, the hair deformation after treatment is insufficient, and the hair deformation of Comparative Example 41 using the one-component hair treatment agent having a pH that is too high. In the case of the treatment method, the hair ends after the treatment are stuck.
実験2:1剤式毛髪処理剤による処理後の毛髪中のジスルフィド結合量測定
1剤式毛髪処理剤として、4%濃度の亜硫酸ナトリウム水溶液(pH8.0、調製例19)と、7%濃度のチオグリコール酸アンモニウム水溶液(pH9.2、調製例20)とを用い、これらによって処理した毛髪中のジスルフィド(S−S)結合の量を、未処理毛のS−S結合に対する残存率(以下、「S−S結合量の未処理毛に対する残存率」という)として求めた。
Experiment 2: Measurement of the amount of disulfide bonds in hair after treatment with a one-part hair treatment agent As a one-part hair treatment agent, a 4% concentration aqueous sodium sulfite solution (pH 8.0, Preparation Example 19) and a 7% concentration Using an aqueous ammonium thioglycolate solution (pH 9.2, Preparation Example 20), the amount of disulfide (S—S) bonds in the hair treated with these was determined as a residual ratio (hereinafter referred to as “S—S bonds”) of untreated hair. It was calculated as “remaining rate of SS bond amount relative to untreated hair”).
毛髪の処理は、調製例19の1剤式毛髪処理剤については、これを用いた以外は上記の実験1と同じ方法で行い、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱を行わなかったサンプル(1)、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱を180℃で行ったサンプル(2)、およびストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱を230℃で行ったサンプル(3)を作製した。また、調製例20の1剤式毛髪処理剤についても、これを用い、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱処理を行わなかった以外は実験1と同じ方法で処理したサンプル(4)、この1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いた以外は実験1と同じ方法で処理し、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱を180℃で行ったサンプル(5)、サンプル(5)と同じ処理をした後に、ブロム酸ナトリウムを用いて酸化処理を施したサンプル(6)を作製した。 The hair treatment was performed in the same manner as in Experiment 1 except that the one-component hair treatment agent of Preparation Example 19 was used, and the sample (1), which was not heated with a straight hair iron, straight A sample (2) that was heated at 180 ° C. with a hair iron for heating and a sample (3) that was heated at 230 ° C. with a hair iron for straight were prepared. Moreover, also about the 1 agent type hair treatment agent of the preparation example 20, the sample (4) processed using the same method as Experiment 1 except not having performed the heat processing by the hair curling iron for straight, this 1 agent type hair Sample (5), which was treated in the same manner as in Experiment 1 except that the treatment agent was used, and heated with a straight hair iron at 180 ° C., was treated in the same manner as Sample (5), and then sodium bromate was used. Sample (6) subjected to oxidation treatment was produced.
そして、上記の各サンプルおよび未処理毛のS−S結合量は、ポーラログラフィーを用いて以下のようにして求めた。 Then, the S—S bond amount of each sample and untreated hair was determined as follows using polarography.
本測定では、S−S結合量のみを直接測定することはできないため、S−S結合とS−H結合との合計量を一旦測定し、この値から別途測定したS−H結合量を除くことで、S−S結合量を求めた。 In this measurement, only the S—S bond amount cannot be directly measured, so the total amount of the S—S bond and the S—H bond is once measured, and the separately measured S—H bond amount is excluded from this value. Thus, the S—S bond amount was determined.
S−S結合とS−H結合との合計量の測定試料は、以下のように調製した。尿素:240.24g、塩化アンモニウム:4.279g、塩化カリウム:18.6375g、亜硫酸ナトリウム:12.604gおよびゼラチン:0.05gを500mLビーカーに量り取り、ここに精製水:400mLを加えた。これを70℃まで加温してゼラチンを溶解させ、アンモニア水を加えてpHを9.3に調整し、更に精製水を加えて500mLとした後に褐色瓶に移した。次いで、この褐色瓶中にヨウ化メチル水銀:0.1712gを加えて攪拌溶解して測定試薬を調製し、4℃で保管した。この測定試薬を7つ用意し、上記サンプル(1)〜(6)および未処理毛各10mgを、それぞれ別の測定試薬中に入れて、測定試料を得た。 A measurement sample of the total amount of S—S bonds and S—H bonds was prepared as follows. Urea: 240.24 g, ammonium chloride: 4.279 g, potassium chloride: 18.6375 g, sodium sulfite: 12.604 g and gelatin: 0.05 g were weighed into a 500 mL beaker, and purified water: 400 mL was added thereto. This was heated to 70 ° C. to dissolve gelatin, aqueous ammonia was added to adjust pH to 9.3, and further purified water was added to make 500 mL, followed by transfer to a brown bottle. Next, 0.1712 g of methylmercury iodide: 0.1712 g was added to this brown bottle and dissolved by stirring to prepare a measurement reagent, which was stored at 4 ° C. Seven measurement reagents were prepared, and each of the samples (1) to (6) and 10 mg of untreated hair were put in separate measurement reagents to obtain measurement samples.
また、S−H結合量の測定試料は、以下のように調製した。トリスハイドロキシメチルアミノメタン緩衝液(100mL、濃度0.1M、pH7、0.1M濃度のKClを加えたもの)からなるA相と、ゼラチン水溶液(25mL、濃度0.25%)からなるB相と、塩化カリウム:3.73gに精製水を加えて500mLとし、ここから2.5mLを取り出してヨウ化メチル水銀溶液(0.1M濃度のジメチルホルムアミド溶液)2.5mLを加えて調製したC相とを混合し、攪拌して測定試薬を調製し、褐色瓶に入れて4℃で保管した。この測定試薬を7つ用意し、上記サンプル(1)〜(6)および未処理毛各40mgを、それぞれ別の測定試薬中に入れて、測定試料を得た。 Moreover, the measurement sample of the amount of S—H bonds was prepared as follows. A phase consisting of trishydroxymethylaminomethane buffer (100 mL, 0.1 M, pH 7, and 0.1 M KCl added) and B phase consisting of an aqueous gelatin solution (25 mL, 0.25% concentration) , Potassium chloride: 500 mL of purified water was added to 3.73 g, 2.5 mL was taken out from this, and 2.5 mL of methylmercuric iodide solution (0.1 M dimethylformamide solution) was added, Were mixed and stirred to prepare a measuring reagent, which was then placed in a brown bottle and stored at 4 ° C. Seven measurement reagents were prepared, and each of the samples (1) to (6) and 40 mg of untreated hair were put in separate measurement reagents to obtain measurement samples.
S−S結合とS−H結合との合計量の測定試料におけるS−S結合とS−H結合との合計量、およびS−H結合量の測定試料におけるS−H結合量は、YANACO社製の「DEOXYGEN STAND DS−100(商品名)」、「POLAROGRAPHIC ANALYZER P−3000(商品名)」、および「滴下水銀電極台 P−1000ST(商品名)」を使用して測定した。そして、上記サンプル(1)〜(6)および未処理毛のそれぞれについて、S−S結合とS−H結合との合計量からS−H結合量を除き、上記サンプル(1)〜(6)のS−S結合量の、未処理毛のS−S結合量に対する残存率(%)を算出した。これらの結果を表7に示す。 The total amount of S—S bond and S—H bond in the measurement sample of the total amount of S—S bond and S—H bond, and the amount of S—H bond in the measurement sample of the S—H bond amount were measured by YANACO Measurements were made using “DEOXYGEN STAND DS-100 (trade name)”, “POLALOGRAPHIC ANALYZER P-3000 (trade name)”, and “dropping mercury electrode stand P-1000ST (trade name)”. For each of the samples (1) to (6) and the untreated hair, the amount of S—H bonds is removed from the total amount of S—S bonds and S—H bonds, and the samples (1) to (6). The residual ratio (%) of the S—S bond amount to the S—S bond amount of the untreated hair was calculated. These results are shown in Table 7.
表7に示す通り、一般的な縮毛矯正剤用の還元剤として汎用されているチオグリコール酸塩(チオグリコール酸アンモニウム)を配合した調製例20の1剤式毛髪処理剤で処理した毛髪は、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱前[サンプル(4)]および180℃での加熱処理後[サンプル(5)]において、S−S結合量が減っており、還元によってS−S結合の開裂が生じていることが分かる。そして、酸化剤による処理[サンプル(6)]をすることで、S−S結合量が増大しており、S−S結合が再形成していることも分かる。サンプル(6)における処理は2剤式の縮毛矯正剤による処理に相当するが、これらの結果から、一般的な還元剤を用いた毛髪処理剤の場合、毛髪のS−S結合量を増やして未処理時と同等の状態とするには、酸化剤による処理が必要であることが分かる。 As shown in Table 7, the hair treated with the one-part hair treatment agent of Preparation Example 20 containing thioglycolate (ammonium thioglycolate), which is widely used as a reducing agent for general hair straighteners, The amount of S—S bonds was decreased before heating with a hair iron for straight [Sample (4)] and after heat treatment at 180 ° C. [Sample (5)], and the reduction of S—S bonds was caused by reduction. I understand that It can also be seen that the amount of S—S bonds is increased by the treatment [sample (6)] with an oxidizing agent, and the S—S bonds are reformed. The treatment in sample (6) corresponds to treatment with a two-component hair straightener, but from these results, in the case of a hair treatment agent using a general reducing agent, the amount of S—S bonds in the hair is increased. It can be seen that treatment with an oxidant is necessary to obtain a state equivalent to that in the untreated state.
これに対し、亜硫酸ナトリウムを配合し、pHを8.0とした調製例19の1剤式毛髪処理剤で処理した毛髪では、ストレート用ヘアアイロンによる加熱前、180℃での加熱後、230℃での加熱後のいずれにおいても、S−S結合量が未処理毛とほぼ同等であり、還元によるS−S結合の開裂が殆ど生じていないことが分かる。このため、調製例19の1剤式毛髪処理剤、すなわち、亜流酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合し、pHを適正値とした1剤式毛髪処理剤を用いた処理では、他の一般的な還元剤を配合した毛髪処理剤(一般的な2剤式の縮毛矯正剤における第1剤に相当)を用いた処理の場合とは異なる機構によって、毛髪へのストレート性付与がなされていることが推測される。また、上記の結果から、亜流酸塩または亜硫酸水素塩を配合し、pHを適正値とした1剤式毛髪処理剤(調製例19の1剤式毛髪処理剤)では、S−S結合量を未処理毛の状態に戻すための酸化処理が不要であることも分かる。
On the other hand, with hair treated with the one-component hair treatment agent of Preparation Example 19 prepared with sodium sulfite and having a pH of 8.0, before heating with a straight hair iron, after heating at 180 ° C., 230 ° C. It can be seen that the S—S bond amount is almost the same as that of the untreated hair even after the heating at, and almost no cleavage of the S—S bond due to the reduction occurs. For this reason, in the treatment using the one-component hair treatment agent of Preparation Example 19, ie, the one-component hair treatment agent containing the sulfite or bisulfite and adjusting the pH to an appropriate value, Straightness is imparted to the hair by a mechanism different from the treatment using a hair treatment agent containing a reducing agent (corresponding to the first agent in a general two-part hair straightener). Is guessed. Further, from the above results, in the one-component hair treatment agent (one-component hair treatment agent of Preparation Example 19) containing sulfite or bisulfite and having an appropriate pH, the SS bond amount is It can also be seen that the oxidation treatment for returning to the untreated hair state is unnecessary.
Claims (8)
上記工程(I)の後に前記毛髪に、表面温度が230〜250℃のストレート用ヘアアイロンによって熱を加えて、前記毛髪にストレート性を付与する工程(II)とを有することを特徴とする毛髪変形処理方法。 A step (I) of applying, to the hair, a one-component hair treatment agent having a pH of 6 to 10 in which at least one sulfite or bisulfite and dithiodiglycolate are blended;
The hair having the step (II) of imparting straightness to the hair by applying heat to the hair with a hair straightener having a surface temperature of 230 to 250 ° C. after the step (I) Deformation processing method.
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