JP5170703B2 - Jacket - Google Patents

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JP5170703B2
JP5170703B2 JP2009209421A JP2009209421A JP5170703B2 JP 5170703 B2 JP5170703 B2 JP 5170703B2 JP 2009209421 A JP2009209421 A JP 2009209421A JP 2009209421 A JP2009209421 A JP 2009209421A JP 5170703 B2 JP5170703 B2 JP 5170703B2
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sleeve
lining
ring
shaped peripheral
peripheral edge
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JP2010248676A (en
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明男 埴田
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Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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Onward Holdings Co Ltd
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Description

本発明はウォッシャブルスーツの上着に関する。   The present invention relates to a washable suit outerwear.

従来のウォッシャブルスーツ、特に合服のウォッシャブルスーツにおいては、全面的に裏地を付けるため、すなわち前裏、背裏(背中全体または肩から背中の半分位まで)および袖裏を付けるため、水抜けが悪く、洗濯機による水洗いで、上着に負荷が掛かり、型崩れが発生し易い。   In conventional washable suits, especially single-use washable suits, water drainage is required to provide full lining, ie the front, back, back (from the back or shoulder to half of the back) and sleeve lining. Unfortunately, washing with water by a washing machine puts a load on the outer garment and is likely to lose its shape.

特に、従来のウォッシャブルスーツを洗濯機で洗うと、水流で水が背中の表地と裏地の間に入り、背中の裏地と表地の間に形成される袋状部分に水流の水が溜まってしまう。   In particular, when a conventional washable suit is washed in a washing machine, the water flows between the outer surface of the back and the lining, and the water of the water flow accumulates in a bag-like portion formed between the back lining and the outer surface.

そのまま洗濯を続けると、水流による回転によって、上着に負荷が掛り、上着の形が崩れたり、地の目が歪んだりする。また、肩回り(アームホール)にはゆき綿や肩パッド等が入っており、水抜けが悪く、洗濯した上着を干すときに上着の形が崩れるという問題が生じた。   If washing is continued as it is, a load is applied to the outerwear due to the rotation of the water flow, and the shape of the outerwear will collapse or the ground eyes will be distorted. In addition, the shoulder circumference (armhole) contained snow cotton, shoulder pads, etc., and water drainage was poor, and the problem was that the shape of the outerwear collapsed when the washed outerwear was dried.

また、背中の裏地と表地の間に形成される袋状部分に濯ぎの水が溜まるので、肩パッドなどが濯ぎの水の汚れを吸い込んでしまい、汚れが逃げないという問題も生じた。   In addition, since rinsing water accumulates in the bag-like portion formed between the back lining and the outer material, the shoulder pad or the like sucks dirt from the rinsing water, causing a problem that the dirt does not escape.

更に、水抜けが悪いと肩パッド(厚みがある)などの乾燥が遅くなる。乾燥に時間が掛かると、家庭では上着を人台で乾かせないのでハンガーで乾かすから、その分上着の自重で垂れが生じ、上着の形が崩れる。   Furthermore, if the drainage is poor, drying of the shoulder pads (thickness) etc. will be slow. If it takes time to dry, the jacket will not be dried on the platform at home, so it will be dried with a hanger, causing drooping due to the weight of the jacket, and the shape of the jacket will collapse.

一方、特許文献1(実用新案登録第3088492号公報)には、裏地を全てメッシュ生地とした夏季用上着が提案されている。しかし、この提案された上着は、裏地を全てメッシュ生地としたので滑りが悪い。また、裏地が全てメッシュ生地であるので伸び縮みし易く、型崩れし易いという問題がある。更に、この提案された上着では細腹(さいばら)の箇所に裏地がなく、袖裏もなく、見た目に安っぽく見える。しかも、ワイシャツを着用した状態で、上着を着たり脱いだりすると、袖裏が付いていないため、滑りが悪くて、袖に手を通し難く、着易いと感じない。また、このように上着の一部にしか裏地が付いていないので、真夏用の上着に適しているが、他の季節に着用するには適していない。   On the other hand, Patent Document 1 (Utility Model Registration No. 3088492) proposes a summer jacket with a mesh fabric as the entire lining. However, the proposed outerwear is slippery because the lining is all made of mesh fabric. Moreover, since all the lining is mesh cloth, there exists a problem that it is easy to expand and contract and to lose shape. In addition, the proposed outerwear has no lining at the narrow belly, no sleeve lining, and looks cheap. Moreover, when wearing or removing a shirt while wearing a shirt, the sleeve lining is not attached, so slipping is poor, it is difficult to pass through the sleeve, and it does not feel easy to wear. Moreover, since the lining is attached to only a part of the outerwear in this way, it is suitable for a midsummer outerwear, but not suitable for wearing in other seasons.

実用新案登録第3088492号公報Utility Model Registration No. 3088492

本発明は、上述した従来技術に付随する問題点を解消して、洗濯しても型崩れし難く、乾きもよいウォッシャブルスーツの上着を提供することを目的とする。   An object of the present invention is to solve the problems associated with the above-described prior art, and to provide an outerwear of a washable suit that does not easily lose its shape even after washing and can be easily dried.

更に、本発明は裏布には主として滑りのよい生地を使用し、また、見た目に高級感があり、更に、腕を動かす際に裏地がその動きを妨げないような着用感のよいウォッシャブルスーツの上着を提供することを目的とする。   Furthermore, the present invention mainly uses a slippery cloth for the lining cloth, and has a high-quality appearance, and further, the lining of the washable suit has a good feeling of wearing so that the movement of the arm does not hinder the movement. The purpose is to provide a jacket.

本発明は、型崩れ防止のために、肩回り(アームホール)の水抜けを考え、開発されたものである。   The present invention has been developed in consideration of drainage around the shoulder (armhole) in order to prevent loss of shape.

本発明においては、アームホールの全周を囲んで身頃側の裏布が設けられている上着において、アームホールを取り囲むリング状周縁部がメッシュ生地からなり、他の身頃側の裏布および袖側の裏布は織物製の裏地であり、前記リング状周縁部の内縁は前記袖側の裏布と縫合されており、前記リング状周縁部の外縁は前記身頃側の裏布と縫合されており、前記リング状周縁部の内縁と縫合された袖側の裏布はアームホールの下方部分において、袖側および身頃側の表生地の縫い代の端部を巻き込んだ状態で、袖の中に入り込んだ部分が前記袖側の表生地の縫い代に星止めされていることを特徴とする上着により前記目的を達成する。 In the present invention, in the outer garment on which the garment side lining cloth is provided so as to surround the entire circumference of the arm hole, the ring-shaped peripheral edge surrounding the arm hole is made of mesh fabric, and the lining cloth on the other garment body side and the sleeve side The lining fabric is a woven fabric lining, the inner edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge is sewn with the sleeve-side lining cloth, the outer edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge is sewn with the garment-side lining cloth , The sleeve-side lining cloth sewn with the inner edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion has a portion that has entered the sleeve in a state where the end portion of the seam allowance of the outer fabric on the sleeve side and the body side is wound in the lower portion of the armhole. The object is achieved by an outer garment characterized by being star-stopped at the seam allowance of the sleeve side fabric .

また、前記リング状周縁部の外縁と前記身頃側の裏布とは両者の間にバイアステープを挟んだ状態で縫合されていることが好ましい。   Moreover, it is preferable that the outer edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge and the lining cloth on the body side are stitched together with a bias tape sandwiched therebetween.

本発明においては、アームホールを取り囲むリング状周縁部が見え、このリング状周縁部分の生地が、他の部分の裏地と異なって、メッシュ生地である。このため、次のような効果が奏される。   In the present invention, a ring-shaped peripheral portion surrounding the arm hole is seen, and the fabric of the ring-shaped peripheral portion is a mesh fabric unlike the lining of the other portions. For this reason, the following effects are produced.

本発明においては、アームホールを取り囲むリング状周縁部がメッシュ生地であるので、洗濯時にも水抜けがよく、水流による型崩れが発生しない。その結果、保型性に優れている。   In the present invention, since the ring-shaped peripheral edge surrounding the armhole is a mesh fabric, drainage is good even during washing, and deformation due to water flow does not occur. As a result, the shape retention is excellent.

肩パッドに水が溜まらずに水が捌けるので、家庭で洗濯して自然乾燥しても、短時間で乾燥する。また、肩パッドに汚れが付着したままとならない。   Water does not accumulate on the shoulder pad and water can be drawn, so even if it is washed at home and dried naturally, it dries in a short time. Also, dirt does not remain on the shoulder pads.

本発明においては、アームホールを取り囲むリング状周縁部がメッシュ生地であるので、通気性がよく、蒸れ難い。   In the present invention, since the ring-shaped peripheral edge surrounding the armhole is a mesh fabric, the air permeability is good and the steaming is difficult.

本発明においては、アームホールを取り囲むリング状周縁部がメッシュ生地であるので、肩回りにストレッチ性があり、体に馴染み、腕の上げ下ろし時も裏地が腕の動きを妨げない。   In the present invention, since the ring-shaped peripheral edge surrounding the armhole is mesh fabric, it has stretchability around the shoulder, is familiar with the body, and the lining does not hinder the movement of the arm even when the arm is raised or lowered.

本発明の上着の一実施例の左前身頃を開いて裏地を見せた状態の正面図である。It is the front view of the state which opened the left front body of one Example of the jacket of this invention, and showed the lining. 本発明の上着の一実施例の身頃を展開し、上着の裏側を示す平面図である。It is a top view which expand | deploys the body of one Example of the jacket of this invention, and shows the back side of a jacket. 本発明の上着の別の実施例を示す図2と同様の平面図である。It is a top view similar to FIG. 2 which shows another Example of the jacket of this invention.

本発明の上着は家庭の洗濯機で洗濯可能な、所謂ウォッシャブルスーツの上着である。本発明の上着は合服(あいふく)で見られるように上着の裏側に前裏1、細腹裏2および背裏3が取り付けられており、アームホール6の全周を囲んで身頃側の裏布が設けられている。   The outer garment of the present invention is a so-called washable suit outer garment that can be washed in a home washing machine. The outer garment of the present invention has a front back 1, a thin back 2 and a back 3 attached to the back of the outer garment, as seen in a suit, and surrounds the entire circumference of the armhole 6 on the body side. No lining cloth is provided.

図1に示すように、本発明の上着の特徴は上着の裏側にあり、アームホール6を取り囲むリング状周縁部4がメッシュ生地からなるものである。他の身頃側の裏布(すなわち前裏1、細腹裏2および背裏3)および袖側の裏布(袖裏5)は通常使用される織物製の裏地である。   As shown in FIG. 1, the feature of the outer garment of the present invention is the back side of the garment, and the ring-shaped peripheral edge 4 surrounding the arm hole 6 is made of mesh fabric. The other garment-side lining fabrics (namely, the front lining 1, the thin stomach lining 2 and the back lining 3) and the sleeve-side lining fabric (sleeve lining 5) are commonly used textile linings.

図1に示したリング状周縁部4は、図2に示すように通常の前裏1、細腹裏2および背裏3のアームホール(袖ぐり)6に沿った部分(図2では斜線を施して示した)をメッシュ生地とすることにより形成される。図2に示した実施例ではリング状周縁部4は前裏1と縫合される部分41と細腹裏2および背裏3と縫合される部分42とからなる。   As shown in FIG. 2, the ring-shaped peripheral edge 4 shown in FIG. 1 is a portion along the arm hole (sleeve) 6 of the normal front back 1, thin back 2 and back 3 (hatched in FIG. 2). It is formed by using a mesh fabric. In the embodiment shown in FIG. 2, the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion 4 is composed of a portion 41 to be sewn to the front back 1, and a portion 42 to be sewn to the thin stomach back 2 and the back back 3.

図3は本発明の上着の別の実施例を示すものである。リング状周縁部の部分41と前裏1との縫い合わせに際しては、図2に示すように両者を直接縫い合わせてもよいが、図3に示すように、伸び止めのためにバイアステープ7を両者の間に挟んだ状態で縫合することが好ましい。同様に、リング状周縁部の部分42と細腹裏2および背裏3との縫い合わせについても、それらを直接縫い合わせてもよいが、伸び止めのために、バイアステープ7(図3参照)を間に挟んだ状態で縫合することが好ましい。このように、袖付けを行う前に、リング状周縁部4の外縁と身頃側の裏布1、2、3とが縫い合わされる。   FIG. 3 shows another embodiment of the jacket of the present invention. When the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion 41 and the front back 1 are stitched together, they may be stitched directly as shown in FIG. 2, but as shown in FIG. It is preferable to sew in a state sandwiched between them. Similarly, the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion 42 and the thin back 2 and back 3 may be sewn directly, but the bias tape 7 (see FIG. 3) is interposed between them to prevent stretching. It is preferable to sew in a state sandwiched between the two. Thus, before performing sleeve attachment, the outer edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge 4 and the lining cloths 1, 2, and 3 on the body side are sewn together.

本発明の上着は通常の背広の縫製工程と工程が異なる点がある。   The outer garment of the present invention has a different process from the usual sewing process for a tall suit.

すなわち、通常の背広の縫製工程においては、表生地の前身頃と細腹とを縫合わせ、身返しと前裏とを縫合わせ、その後、前身頃と身返しとの前端を縫合わせる。また、表生地の後身頃と背裏とを縫い、その後に、表生地の前身頃と後身頃とを脇縫いして縫合わせる。前裏と背裏との脇を縫合わせる。前身頃と後身頃の肩を縫合わせる。上衿ゴージー縫い、地衿ゴージー止め、地衿付け縫いにより衿付けを行ってから、前裏と背裏の肩を縫合わせる。そして袖付けを行う。   That is, in the normal sewing process of a wide suit, the front body and thin belly of the front fabric are sewed together, the back and front back are sewed, and then the front ends of the front and back are sewed together. In addition, the back body and back of the front fabric are sewn, and then the front body and back body of the front fabric are sewn side by side and stitched together. Sew the sides of the front and back. Stitch the front and back shoulders together. After sewing the upper back and the back of the back and the back of the back, sew the back and back shoulders together. Then do the sleeves.

このように通常の背広の縫製工程においては、前身頃と前裏とを縫合わせ、後身頃と背裏とを縫合わせ、その後に前身頃と後身頃との脇縫いおよび前裏と背裏との脇縫いを行っている。   In this way, in the usual sewing process of a wide suit, the front body and the front back are sewn together, the back body and the back back are sewn together, and then the side stitches between the front body and the back body, and the front back and back back We are doing side stitching.

これに対して、本発明ではリング状周縁部4を形成するために、先に前裏1、細腹裏2および背裏3を縫合わせる。一方、表生地も前身頃11、細腹12および後身頃13を縫合わせる。   On the other hand, in order to form the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion 4 in the present invention, the front back 1, the thin back 2 and the back 3 are first stitched together. On the other hand, the front fabric 11 sews the front body 11, the thin belly 12 and the back body 13.

すなわち、上着の裏側については、表生地からなる身返し14と前裏1とを縫合わせ、玉縁縫いで内ポケットを作る。前裏1と細腹裏2と背裏3を縫合わせる。リング状周縁部41の一端(脇下となる側)とリング状周縁部42の一端(脇下となる側)とを縫合わせる。図2に示すように、縫合わせた前裏1、細腹裏2および背裏3のアームホール部分に、リング状周縁部41、42を縫い付ける。身返し14、前裏1およびリング状周縁部41がなす肩部とリング状周縁部42および背裏3のなす肩部とを縫合わせて、チャンチャンコ(袖なしの羽織り)のような形状とする。表生地については、前身頃11に薄い芯地や肩パッドを据付けて、細腹12および後身頃13を縫合わせ、前身頃11と後身頃13の肩部を縫合わせる。身返し14の前端と前身頃11の前端を縫合わせた後、衿付けを行う。   That is, on the back side of the outer garment, the turn-back 14 made of the front fabric and the front back 1 are stitched together, and an inner pocket is made by stitching the edges. The front back 1, the back of the stomach 2 and the back 3 are sewn together. One end of the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion 41 (side to be underarm) and one end of the ring-shaped peripheral edge portion 42 (side to be underarm) are sewn together. As shown in FIG. 2, ring-shaped peripheral portions 41 and 42 are sewn to the arm hole portions of the front back 1, the thin back back 2, and the back back 3 that are sewn together. The shoulder formed by the turnover 14, the front back 1 and the ring-shaped peripheral edge 41 and the shoulder formed by the ring-shaped peripheral edge 42 and the back back 3 are sewn together to form a shape like a Chanchanco (Haori without sleeves). To do. For the front fabric, a thin interlining or shoulder pad is installed on the front body 11, the thin belly 12 and the back body 13 are sewn together, and the shoulders of the front body 11 and the back body 13 are sewn together. After the front end of the turnover 14 and the front end of the front body 11 are stitched together, brazing is performed.

表生地の山袖と下袖を縫合わせて筒状とする。山袖裏と下袖裏を縫合わせるが、この際一方の縫い目は端から端まで縫い、他方の縫い目は両端部のみを縫い、比較的長い距離(例えば30cm以上)を縫わずに、開いた状態とする。表生地の袖の袖口を折り返して袖裏5(図1参照)と縫合わせる。表生地の袖を前身頃11、細腹12、および後身頃13からなるアームホール6に縫合わせて袖付けをする。袖裏5は開いた部分からミシンを掛けて、リング状周縁部4の内縁と共に表生地のアームホール6の縫い代に縫い付ける。その後、袖裏5の開いた部分は縫って閉じる。   The top and bottom sleeves of the outer fabric are stitched together to form a cylinder. The back of the sleeve and the back of the bottom sleeve are stitched together. At this time, one seam is sewn from end to end, and the other seam is sewn only at both ends and opened without sewing a relatively long distance (for example, 30 cm or more). State. The cuffs of the sleeves of the front fabric are folded back and sewn with the sleeve back 5 (see FIG. 1). The sleeves of the front fabric are sewn into the armhole 6 including the front body 11, the thin belly 12, and the back body 13, and the sleeves are attached. The sleeve back 5 is sewn from the open part and is sewn to the seam allowance of the armhole 6 of the outer fabric together with the inner edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge 4. Then, the open part of the sleeve back 5 is sewn and closed.

アームホール6の下方部分(腋の下付近)の袖裏5がダブつかないようにするために、リング状周縁部4の内縁と縫合した袖裏5をアームホール6の下方部分における表生地の縫い代の端部を巻き込んだ状態(すなわち、リング状周縁部4の内縁と縫合した袖裏5の箇所は身頃側に位置し、残りの袖裏5は袖の中に入り込むので、袖の中に入り込んだ袖裏5の部分と身頃側に位置する袖裏5の部分で袖側および身頃側の表生地の縫い代の端部を挟むようにした状態)で、袖の中に入り込んだ袖裏5の部分を表生地の縫い代に星止めすることが好ましい。
In order to prevent the sleeve back 5 in the lower part of the arm hole 6 (near the heel) from dubbing, the inner edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge 4 and the sleeve back 5 stitched together are the ends of the seam allowance of the front fabric in the lower part of the arm hole 6 (Ie, the inner edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge 4 and the stitched sleeve back 5 are located on the body side, and the remaining sleeve back 5 enters the sleeve, so the sleeve back that has entered the sleeve) 5) and the back of the sleeve 5 located on the side of the body , with the end of the seam allowance on the sleeve side and the body side of the body side sandwiched between the sleeve 5 and the side of the sleeve 5 It is preferable to use a star for the seam allowance of the fabric.

上着を専門店でクリーニングした場合は、脇の下の袖付け部分はアイロンで押さえて仕上げるので袖裏がダブついたりしないが、家庭で洗濯した場合は袖付け部分のアイロン掛けが困難であるので、前記のように星止めしておくことが好ましい。   When cleaning the outerwear at a specialty store, the sleeves under the armpits are pressed and finished with an iron, so the back of the sleeves will not drape. It is preferable to stop the star as described above.

1 前裏
2 細腹裏
3 背裏
4 リング状周縁部
5 袖裏
6 アームホール
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Front back 2 Thin stomach back 3 Back back 4 Ring-shaped peripheral part 5 Sleeve back 6 Armhole

Claims (2)

アームホールの全周を囲んで身頃側の裏布が設けられている上着において、アームホールを取り囲むリング状周縁部がメッシュ生地からなり、他の身頃側の裏布および袖側の裏布は織物製の裏地であり、前記リング状周縁部の内縁は前記袖側の裏布と縫合されており、前記リング状周縁部の外縁は前記身頃側の裏布と縫合されており、前記リング状周縁部の内縁と縫合された袖側の裏布はアームホールの下方部分において、袖側および身頃側の表生地の縫い代の端部を巻き込んだ状態で、袖の中に入り込んだ部分が前記袖側の表生地の縫い代に星止めされていることを特徴とする上着。
In the outer garment where the garment side lining is provided around the entire circumference of the armhole, the ring-shaped peripheral edge surrounding the armhole is made of mesh fabric, and the garment on the other garment side and the sleeve side lining are made of fabric. An inner edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge is sewn to the sleeve-side lining, and an outer edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge is sewn to the garment-side lining, and the ring-shaped peripheral edge. The sleeve side lining fabric stitched to the inner edge of the sleeve is a state where the end portion of the seam allowance on the sleeve side and the body side is wound around the lower portion of the armhole, and the portion that has entered the sleeve is the surface on the sleeve side. Outerwear characterized by being star-stopped at the seam allowance of the fabric .
前記リング状周縁部の外縁と前記身頃側の裏布とは両者の間にバイアステープを挟んだ状態で縫合されていることを特徴とする請求項1記載の上着。   The outer garment according to claim 1, wherein the outer edge of the ring-shaped peripheral edge and the lining cloth on the body side are sewn together with a bias tape sandwiched therebetween.
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Cited By (1)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111150129A (en) * 2020-01-17 2020-05-15 山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司 Sewing method of machine washable business suit

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2015172258A (en) * 2014-03-11 2015-10-01 株式会社たまき Washable necktie
JP3199799U (en) * 2015-06-29 2015-09-10 株式会社明石スクールユニフォームカンパニー Upper garment

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JPS4916110U (en) * 1972-05-13 1974-02-09
JPS59602B2 (en) * 1976-10-29 1984-01-07 東レ株式会社 washable suits
JPS579810U (en) * 1980-06-16 1982-01-19
JPH0431218Y2 (en) * 1986-09-19 1992-07-28

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111150129A (en) * 2020-01-17 2020-05-15 山东如意毛纺服装集团股份有限公司 Sewing method of machine washable business suit

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