JP3766964B2

JP3766964B2 - Method for weaving three-dimensional swell-patterned fabric

Info

Publication number: JP3766964B2
Application number: JP22719997A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 宏務滋賀; 一三船橋
Original assignee: 洛陽織物株式会社
Priority date: 1997-08-07
Filing date: 1997-08-07
Publication date: 2006-04-19
Anticipated expiration: 2017-08-07
Also published as: JPH1161593A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、立体感を有するうねり紋様織物の織成方法に関するもので、地組織を畦彫りにて波形に形成することにより、うねり紋様を形成する別地緯や絵緯糸の露出形態に新規な工夫をこらしたものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
周知の通り、各種の紋織物において、地組織は平地、錦地、朱子裏地等が一般的であるが、これらは平坦でかつ規則正しいものであり、本発明者が知る限り、地組織が立体的な紋織物はこれまで無かった。
【０００３】
その理由は、従来の紋織物においては、紋織部分の美しさを生かすため地組織（紋織部分以外の無地の部分）は平坦な形態に形成するのが常識で、地組織に立体感のある図柄を形成するという考えは思いもよらないことであったためである。
【０００４】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
紋織物における地組織の変化は、胴緯によるものや別地緯による細かい紋様によるもの等によって得られているが、これらの組織においては別の地緯糸をさらに１越必要とし、手間がかかって高価になるにもかかわらず、その効果はあまり評価されるものではなかった。
【０００５】
本発明は、地組織自体に立体的な地紋様を形成することにより、従来にない雅趣に富んだ織物を得ることを技術的課題とするものである。
【０００６】
【課題を解決するための手段】
前記技術的課題は、次の通りの本発明によって達成できる。
【０００７】
すなわち、本発明者は、波形の地組織を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成し、搦経糸を４越以上浮かせて同口に別地緯を４越以上打ち込むことを基本的な手段として採用することにより従来のように細くて平らなうねりではなく、別地緯による比較的大きい立体的なうねり紋様を地組織として製織することに成功したものである。
【０００８】
本発明の第１は、経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上浮かせて同口に４０デニール以上の別地緯６を４越以上打ち込み、これを搦経糸１にて閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、別地緯６を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成したことを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法である。
【０００９】
また、本発明の第２は、経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上部分的または全幅にわたって浮かせ、同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムなうねり状に形成したことを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法である。
【００１０】
また、本発明の第３は、経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上部分的または全幅にわたって浮かせ、同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じると共に別の箇所でも搦経糸１を４越以上部分的に浮かせて同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を４越以上打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成することを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法である。
【００１１】
また、本発明の第４は、経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上部分的または全幅にわたって浮かせ、同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じると共に別の箇所でも搦経糸１を４越以上部分的に浮かせて同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を少なくとも２越ずつ８回打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成することを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法である。
【００１２】
なお、本発明における「針組織による畦彫り」とは、全地経糸（２４００本）を４本ずつ把釣って６００本の竪針に吊り、これをジャカード織機の紋針によって上下させることによって地経糸と地緯糸とを畦（平織組織）に組む織技法であり、「棒刀」とは、前記紋針の上下運動とは関係なく、経糸を組織するため別の竪針に吊り込み、経糸１本単位で所望の組織をつくるものである。
【００１３】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明に係る立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法の実施形態を図に基づき説明する。
【００１４】
実施の形態：１
図１は、本発明に係る立体うねり紋様織物の織成過程における織組織の一形態を示す部分拡大平面図で、１は搦経糸（黒色絹糸：２１／４双）、２は経糸（黒色絹糸：２１／４双）を示し、この搦経糸１と経糸２を２４００本整経して４本バツリ（把釣）とした針組織（針数６００本）により地経糸３が構成されている。
【００１５】
４は地緯糸（黒色絹糸：２１／４双）で、この地緯糸４と前記地経糸３により波形の地組織５が針組織にて畦に形成されている。
【００１６】
従って、ジャカード織機にて紋織物を織ると図１に示すように、地緯糸４が横長状に表れる部分は密な組織となり、その他の部分は粗な組織となって、畦彫りによる地緯糸４は順次地経糸３を跨ぐ形で幅方向に波を打つように位置し、搦経糸１と経糸２が浮いた波形の地組織５の繰り返しとなる。
【００１７】
この針組織による波形の地組織５は、８越毎に繰り返し形成されている。
【００１８】
６は別地緯（黒色絹糸：２１／４双４本合せ）で、前記地経糸３と地緯糸４により形成された針組織による波形の地組織５内に、搦経糸１を５越浮かせて同口に５越打ち込まれた状態のものである。
【００１９】
前記波形の地組織５の中に別地緯６を常法により紋図に従って波紋様の図柄を形成すると、波紋様の地緯糸４が束組織されて地緯糸４が４本出るので別地緯６の露出度が少なくなり、束組織されていない部分の別地緯６は露出度が大きなものとなる。
【００２０】
すなわち、図１の状態で搦経糸１を閉じると、畦彫りによる地組織５のうち波形の部分は搦経糸１が浮かないため密に形成され、その他の部分は棒刀により粗に形成されているため、５越の束状の別地緯６は、密な波形の部分（横長状に表れている地緯糸４の部分）をガイドとして下方に寄せられ、搦経糸１に余裕のある部分は平面から見て波の幅が広くて波高が低く、搦経糸１に余裕のない部分は同じく波の幅が狭くて波高が高い状態の立体感のあるものとなる。
【００２１】
この別地緯６は５越毎に打ち込まれるため、８越毎に繰り返し形成されている地組織５の針組織による波形とは互いに接近したり離れたりして、各別地緯６による波形は図３、図４に示すように一定区間ランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成される。
【００２２】
前記別地緯６による同一うねりの波の周期は、地組織５の８越毎の波形と、別地緯６の打ち込み間隔である５越毎との最小公倍数である４０越毎になるが、地組織５が４本バツリによる６００本の針組織のため全幅にわたって同じ紋上げがなく、従って、織物全面にわたってランダムな波形の地組織を呈することになる。
【００２３】
なお、前記実施の形態においては、針組織による波形の地組織５は８越毎に繰り返し形成され、別地緯６は５越毎に打ち込まれている例を挙げたが、これらの打ち込み間隔を何越毎に繰り返すかは任意に設定できるものであり、また、別地緯６の打ち込み越数や搦経糸１、経糸２、地緯糸４、別地緯６等の種類についても前記のものに限定されるものではない。
【００２４】
また、地経糸３についても、３６００本整経した場合には通常６本バツリとなり、その他特殊な場合には２本バツリ、３本バツリ、５本バツリ等も使用することもある。
【００２５】
実施の形態：２
前記実施の形態１と同じ地組織５の一部に、搦経糸１を５越部分的に浮かせて同口に絵緯糸７（１掛銀糸１本と白絹糸２本）を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７の部分を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムでやや立体的なうねり状に形成した紋様織物が得られる。（図５参照）
【００２６】
実施の形態：３
また、前記実施の形態２の紋様織物の一部に、搦経糸１を５越部分的に浮かせて同口に絵緯糸７（１掛金糸３本）を５越打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、これら絵緯糸７の部分においては前記実施の形態１における別地緯６とほぼ同様なランダムで立体的なうねり状を呈するのでさらに豪華な紋様織物が得られる。（図６参照）
【００２７】
実施の形態：４
また、前記実施の形態２の紋様織物の一部に搦経糸１を５越部分的に浮かせて同口に絵緯糸７（１掛金糸）を２越ずつ８回打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、これら絵緯糸７の部分においては前記実施の形態１における別地緯６とほぼ同様なランダムで、前記実施の形態３における立体的なうねり状紋様より少し低いが立体的なうねり状を呈するのでさらに豪華な紋様織物が得られる。（図７参照）
【００２８】
なお、前記実施の形態２〜実施の形態４における絵地緯７は実施の形態１の別地緯６による立体うねり紋様織物の上部に設けてもよい。
【００２９】
本発明に係る立体うねり紋様織物は、ジャカード織機の他、手機は勿論各種の織機にて織成することができる。
【００３０】
【作用】
前記実施の形態１および実施の形態２における立体うねり紋様織物においては、別地緯や絵緯糸による各うねりが織物全般にわたってランダムな状態を呈しているが、これは、畦彫りによる波形部分の邪魔だてにより地組織５に別地緯や絵緯糸が直線的に打ち込まれず、波形に沿ったものとなるためである。
【００３１】
また、前記うねりがランダムな状態となるのは、理屈としては４０越毎に同一のうねりが繰り返されるといってもその間に７本もの同様なうねりが存在しており、また、別地緯や絵緯糸が束状の繊維による形態の不安定なことと、これらが余裕をもった搦経糸において閉じられていることとの相乗作用により、二つとして同一のうねりがないランダムな状態を呈するものと思われる。
【００３２】
また、実施の形態３および実施の形態４における立体うねり紋様織物においても、絵緯糸による立体状のうねりの形態は同様にランダムなものとなる。
【００３３】
【発明の効果】
本発明においては、新規な装置や特殊な部材は何ら必要とせず、一般に広く用いられているジャカード織機をはじめその他汎用の織機を使用することにより比較的大きな立体状のランダムなうねり紋様を有する地組織が織成できる。
【００３４】
そして、４越以上の絵緯糸を紋様として設けたものにおいては、この絵緯糸による紋様がすくい調子の豪華なものに見え、帯に適した紋様織物として商品価値が高いものとなる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明に係る紋様織物の織組織を示す部分拡大平面図。
【図２】本発明に係る紋様織物の織組織を示す部分拡大側面図。
【図３】本発明に係る紋様織物の織組織を示す部分拡大正面図。
【図４】本発明に係る紋様織物の一部を詳細に示した部分拡大平面図。
【図５】本発明に係る紋様織物の他例の織組織を示す部分拡大側面図。
【図６】本発明に係る紋様織物の他例の織組織を示す部分拡大側面図。
【図７】本発明に係る紋様織物の他例の織組織を示す部分拡大側面図。
【符号の説明】
１搦経糸
２経糸
３地経糸
４地地緯
５地組織
６別地緯
７絵緯糸[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method for weaving a wavy pattern woven fabric having a three-dimensional effect, and by forming a ground structure into a corrugated shape by engraving, a novel method for exposing another weft or a weft pattern to form a wavy pattern is disclosed. It is something that has been devised.
[0002]
[Prior art]
As is well known, in various patterned fabrics, the ground structure is generally flat, brocade, satin lining, etc., but these are flat and regular, and as far as the inventor knows, the ground structure is three-dimensional. There has never been a crested fabric.
[0003]
The reason for this is that, in conventional patterned fabrics, it is common knowledge that the ground texture (solid areas other than the patterned fabric) should be formed in a flat form in order to take advantage of the beauty of the patterned texture, and the ground texture has a three-dimensional effect. This is because the idea of forming a sight was unexpected.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The change in the texture of the crested fabric is obtained by the fact that it is due to the waist or the fine pattern due to the other, etc. However, in these structures, one more weft is required, which is troublesome. Despite being expensive, the effect was not highly appreciated.
[0005]
It is a technical object of the present invention to obtain a graceful woven fabric that is unconventional by forming a three-dimensional pattern on the ground structure itself.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The technical problem can be achieved by the present invention as follows.
[0007]
That is, as a basic means, the present inventor forms a corrugated ground structure densely by sculpting with a needle structure, floats the warp warp over 4 or more, and drives another ground over 4 or more into the same mouth. By adopting it, we succeeded in weaving a relatively large three-dimensional swell pattern as a ground structure instead of a thin and flat swell as in the past.
[0008]
In the first aspect of the present invention, a corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by scissors engraving with a needle structure using a ground warp 3 and a ground weft 4 in which a warp 2 and a warp warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and the other parts are formed with a stick sword. Form a rough shape, float the warp warp 1 over 4 or more and drive over 4 deniers of over 40 denier into the same mouth, and repeat the process of closing it with the warp warp 1 at a required interval. A method for weaving a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric characterized in that the ground 6 is formed in a random and three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground structure 5 by the carving.
[0009]
In the second aspect of the present invention, a corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure using a ground warp 3 and a ground weft 4 in which the warp 2 and the warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and the other portions are sticked. Roughly formed with a sword, the warp warp 1 is floated partially or over the entire width, and the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread, decorative thread, etc. is driven into the same mouth one by one, and this is closed with the warp warp 1 By repeating, the weft 7 is formed into a random undulation according to the corrugated ground texture 5 by the carving.
[0010]
Further, according to the third aspect of the present invention, a corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure with a ground warp 3 and a ground weft 4 in which the warp 2 and the warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and the other portions are sticked. Roughly formed with a sword, the warp warp 1 is floated over 4 or more parts or the entire width, and the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread, decorative thread, etc. is driven into the same mouth one by one, and this is closed by the warp warp 1 and separated At the point of, part of the warp warp 1 is floated more than 4 parts, and the weft 7 such as gold, silver thread, decoration thread, etc. is driven into the same port more than 4 parts, and the process of closing it with the warp warp 1 is repeated at a required interval. Thus, the method of weaving a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric is characterized in that the picture weft 7 is formed in a random and three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground structure 5 by the carving.
[0011]
In the fourth aspect of the present invention, a corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure using a ground warp 3 and a ground weft 4 in which the warp 2 and the warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and the other portions are sticked. Roughly formed with a sword, the warp warp 1 is floated over 4 or more parts or the entire width, and the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread, decorative thread, etc. is driven into the same mouth one by one, and this is closed by the warp warp 1 and separated In this part, the warp warp 1 is partially floated more than 4 times, and the weft thread 7 such as gold, silver thread, decoration thread, etc. is driven into the same mouth at least 2 times 8 times, and the process of closing it with the warp warp 1 at a required interval By repeating the above, the weft 7 is formed into a random and three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground structure 5 by the carving.
[0012]
In the present invention, “claw carving with a needle structure” means that all the warps (2400) are picked up by 4 pieces and hung on 600 needles, which are moved up and down by the crest needles of a Jacquard loom. It is a weaving technique in which ground warp and weft are assembled into a heel (plain weave structure), and the “stick sword” is hung on another heel needle to organize the warp regardless of the vertical movement of the crest needle, A desired structure is formed in units of one warp.
[0013]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, an embodiment of a method for weaving a three-dimensional wavy pattern fabric according to the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
[0014]
Embodiment: 1
FIG. 1 is a partially enlarged plan view showing one form of a woven structure in a weaving process of a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric according to the present invention. 1 is a warp warp (black silk: 21/4 twin), 2 is a warp (black silk) 21/4 twin), and the warp 3 is composed of a needle structure (600 stitches) in which 2400 warp warps 1 and warps 2 are warped into 4 pieces (catch fishing).
[0015]
Reference numeral 4 denotes a ground weft (black silk thread: 21/4 double), and the ground weave 4 and the ground warp 3 form a corrugated ground structure 5 in a heel shape.
[0016]
Accordingly, when weaving a woven fabric with a jacquard loom, as shown in FIG. 1, the portion where the weft yarn 4 appears in a horizontally long shape becomes a dense structure, and the other portion becomes a coarse structure, and the weft yarn by engraving 4 is positioned so as to wave in the width direction in such a manner as to straddle the ground warp 3 in sequence, and is a repetition of the corrugated ground structure 5 in which the warp warp 1 and the warp 2 float.
[0017]
The corrugated ground structure 5 formed by the needle structure is repeatedly formed every 8 passes.
[0018]
Reference numeral 6 denotes another ground (black silk thread: 21/4 double 4). The warp warp 1 is lifted 5 times in the corrugated ground structure 5 formed by the needle structure formed by the ground warp 3 and the ground weft 4. It is a state in which five overtakes have been driven into the same mouth.
[0019]
If a ripple pattern is formed in accordance with the pattern of the other ground 6 in the corrugated ground structure 5 according to a conventional method, the rippled ground weft 4 is bundled and four ground threads 4 are produced. The degree of exposure of 6 is reduced, and the other ground 6 of the part that is not bundled has a high degree of exposure.
[0020]
In other words, when the warp warp 1 is closed in the state of FIG. 1, the corrugated portion of the ground structure 5 by the carving is densely formed because the warp warp 1 does not float, and the other portions are roughly formed by a stick knife. Therefore, the separate weft 6 in the form of a bundle of 5 crosses is moved downward with a dense corrugated portion (the portion of the weft yarn 4 appearing in a horizontally long shape) as a guide, and the portion having a margin in the warp warp 1 is When viewed from the plane, the wave width is wide and the wave height is low, and the portion where the warp yarn 1 has no margin has the same three-dimensional effect that the wave width is narrow and the wave height is high.
[0021]
Since this separate ground 6 is driven every 5th crossing, the waveform due to the needle tissue of the ground structure 5 repeatedly formed every 8th crossing is close to or away from each other, and the waveform due to each separate ground 6 is As shown in FIG. 3 and FIG. 4, it is formed into a three-dimensional undulation in a certain interval random.
[0022]
The period of the wave of the same undulation due to the another ground 6 is every 40th, which is the least common multiple between the waveform of every 8th crossing of the ground structure 5 and every 5th crossing which is the driving interval of the other ground 6; Since the ground structure 5 has 600 needle structures formed by four cracks, the same pattern is not formed over the entire width, and therefore, a random corrugated ground structure is exhibited over the entire surface of the fabric.
[0023]
In the above-described embodiment, the corrugated ground structure 5 formed by the needle tissue is repeatedly formed every 8 passes, and the separate ground 6 is driven every 5 passes. It is possible to arbitrarily set how many times it repeats. Also, the number of overshoots of another ground weft and the types of warp 1, warp 2, warp 4, weft 6, etc. are the same as above. It is not limited.
[0024]
Also, the ground warp 3 is usually 6 threads when 3600 warps are warped, and 2 or 3 threads or 5 threads may be used in other special cases.
[0025]
Embodiment: 2
The warp yarn 1 is partially floated over 5 parts of the same ground structure 5 as in the first embodiment, and picture wefts 7 (one hanging silver thread and two white silk threads) are driven into the same mouth one by one, By repeating this process of closing with the warp warp 1 at a required interval, a patterned fabric in which the portion of the picture weft 7 is formed in a random and slightly three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground structure 5 by the carving is obtained. It is done. (See Figure 5)
[0026]
Embodiment: 3
Further, the warp warp 1 is partially floated over 5 parts of the pattern fabric of the second embodiment, and the picture weft 7 (3 hooks) is driven over 5 times in the same mouth. By repeating the closing process at a required interval, the portion of the picture weft 7 has a random and three-dimensional undulation similar to that of the separate weft 6 in the first embodiment, so that a more luxurious pattern fabric can be obtained. It is done. (See Figure 6)
[0027]
Embodiment: 4
Further, the warp warp 1 is partially floated over a part of the pattern fabric of the second embodiment, and the picture weft 7 (one hook thread) is driven into the same mouth 8 times at 2 passes. By repeating the closing process at a necessary interval, the portion of the picture weft 7 is almost the same as that of the separate ground weft 6 in the first embodiment, and slightly smaller than the three-dimensional wavy pattern in the third embodiment. Although it is low but has a three-dimensional undulation, a more luxurious pattern fabric can be obtained. (See Figure 7)
[0028]
It should be noted that the picture background 7 in Embodiments 2 to 4 may be provided on the upper part of the three-dimensional undulation-like fabric according to the separate background 6 of Embodiment 1.
[0029]
The three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric according to the present invention can be woven by various looms as well as hand machines in addition to jacquard looms.
[0030]
[Action]
In the three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric in the first and second embodiments, each undulation caused by different ground and picture wefts is in a random state throughout the woven fabric. This is because the separate ground and picture wefts are not driven linearly into the ground structure 5 due to the warping, and become along the waveform.
[0031]
The reason why the swells are in a random state is that, in theory, the same swell is repeated every 40 passes, but there are seven similar swells between them. As a result of the synergistic effect that the picture wefts are unstable in the form of bundled fibers and these are closed in the warp warp with a margin, they exhibit a random state without the same undulations I think that the.
[0032]
Also in the three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric in the third and fourth embodiments, the three-dimensional undulations of the picture wefts are similarly random.
[0033]
【The invention's effect】
In the present invention, no new device or special member is required, and a relatively large three-dimensional random undulation pattern is obtained by using other general-purpose looms such as a widely used jacquard loom. We can weave ground organization.
[0034]
In a case where four or more picture wefts are provided as patterns, the pattern by the picture wefts appears to be gorgeous in a scooping tone, and has a high commercial value as a pattern fabric suitable for the belt.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a partially enlarged plan view showing a woven structure of a patterned fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a partially enlarged side view showing a woven structure of a patterned fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a partially enlarged front view showing a woven structure of a patterned fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a partially enlarged plan view showing in detail a part of the patterned fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a partially enlarged side view showing a woven structure of another example of a patterned fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a partially enlarged side view showing a woven structure of another example of a patterned fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a partially enlarged side view showing a woven structure of another example of a patterned fabric according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1 Warp 2 Warp 3 Ground warp 4 Ground weft 5 Ground texture 6 Separate weft 7 Picture weft

Claims

経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上浮かせて同口に４０デニール以上の別地緯６を４越以上打ち込み、これを搦経糸１にて閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、別地緯６を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成したことを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法。Corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure by ground warp 3 and ground weft 4 in which warp 2 and warp warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and other parts are formed roughly with a stick knife, and warp warp 1 is lifted over 4 passes, and another ground 6 with 40 deniers or more is driven into the same mouth over 4 passes, and the process of closing it with warp warp 1 is repeated at a required interval, thereby engraving the separate ground 6 A method for weaving a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric, characterized in that it is formed in a random and three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground texture 5.

経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上部分的または全幅にわたって浮かせ、同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムなうねり状に形成したことを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法。Corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure by ground warp 3 and ground weft 4 in which warp 2 and warp warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and other parts are formed roughly with a stick knife, and warp warp 1 is floated over 4 or more partly or over the entire width, and the weft thread 7 such as gold / silver thread, decorative thread, etc. is driven into the same mouth one by one, and the process of closing it with the warp warp thread 1 is repeated. A method for weaving a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric, characterized in that it is formed into a random undulation according to corrugated ground texture 5 by carving.

経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上部分的または全幅にわたって浮かせ、同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じると共に別の箇所でも搦経糸１を４越以上部分的に浮かせて同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を４越以上打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成することを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法。Corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure by ground warp 3 and ground weft 4 in which warp 2 and warp warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and other parts are formed roughly with a stick knife, and warp warp 1 and more than 4 are floated partially or over the entire width, and the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread and decorative thread is driven into the same mouth one by one, and this is closed with the warp warp 1 and the warp 1 is passed over the other part The above-mentioned part of the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread, decorative thread, etc. is driven over 4 or more times, and the process of closing it with the warp warp 1 is repeated at a required interval, thereby engraving the picture weft 7 A method for weaving a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric, characterized by forming a random three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground texture 5.

経糸２と搦経糸１を並列配置した地経糸３と地緯糸４により波形の地組織５を針組織による畦彫りにて密に形成すると共にその他の部分を棒刀により粗に形成し、搦経糸１を４越以上部分的または全幅にわたって浮かせ、同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を１越ずつ打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じると共に別の箇所でも搦経糸１を４越以上部分的に浮かせて同口に金・銀糸、装飾糸等の絵緯糸７を少なくとも２越ずつ８回打ち込み、これを搦経糸１により閉じる工程を所要間隔にて繰り返すことにより、絵緯糸７を前記畦彫りによる波形の地組織５に応じたランダムで立体的なうねり状に形成することを特徴とする立体うねり紋様織物の織成方法。Corrugated ground structure 5 is densely formed by sculpting with a needle structure by ground warp 3 and ground weft 4 in which warp 2 and warp warp 1 are arranged in parallel, and other parts are formed roughly with a stick knife, and warp warp 1 and more than 4 are floated partially or over the entire width, and the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread and decorative thread is driven into the same mouth one by one, and this is closed with the warp warp 1 and the warp 1 is passed over the other part The picture weft 7 is driven by repeating the process of closing it with the warp 1 at least at the required intervals, by partially laying it up and driving the weft 7 such as gold / silver thread, decoration thread, etc. at least two times over the same mouth. A method for weaving a three-dimensional undulation-like woven fabric, characterized by forming a random and three-dimensional undulation according to the corrugated ground texture 5 by the carving.