JP2850166B2 - Processing of pleated products - Google Patents

Processing of pleated products

Info

Publication number
JP2850166B2
JP2850166B2 JP3233769A JP23376991A JP2850166B2 JP 2850166 B2 JP2850166 B2 JP 2850166B2 JP 3233769 A JP3233769 A JP 3233769A JP 23376991 A JP23376991 A JP 23376991A JP 2850166 B2 JP2850166 B2 JP 2850166B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
semi
pleated
finished product
heat treatment
product
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Fee Related
Application number
JP3233769A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0598563A (en
Inventor
直己 滝沢
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
MYAKE DEZAIN JIMUSHO KK
Original Assignee
MYAKE DEZAIN JIMUSHO KK
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by MYAKE DEZAIN JIMUSHO KK filed Critical MYAKE DEZAIN JIMUSHO KK
Priority to JP3233769A priority Critical patent/JP2850166B2/en
Priority to CA 2067542 priority patent/CA2067542C/en
Priority to ES92304417T priority patent/ES2092036T3/en
Priority to EP19920304417 priority patent/EP0529766B1/en
Priority to DE1992613625 priority patent/DE69213625T2/en
Priority to KR1019920010930A priority patent/KR970000315B1/en
Priority to CN 92105056 priority patent/CN1025753C/en
Priority to US08/036,536 priority patent/US5356055A/en
Publication of JPH0598563A publication Critical patent/JPH0598563A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP2850166B2 publication Critical patent/JP2850166B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/04Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06JPLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
    • D06J1/12Forms of pleats or the like

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】この発明は、プリ−ツ加工の施さ
れたスカ−ト、ワンピ−ス、ブラウス、スラックス等の
プリ−ツ製品の加工方法に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for processing pleated products such as skirts, dresses, blouses and slacks.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】スカ−トに代表されるように、布地に折
り目を付ける加工方法が知られている。たとえば、折り
目のつけられたスカ−トはフレアスカ−ト、ギャザ−ド
スカ−ト、プリ−ツスカ−ト等といわれ、スカ−ト、ワ
ンピ−ス、ブラウス、スラック等にこの種の折り目を加
える加工は、一般に、プリ−ツ加工と総称されている。
プリ−ツ加工との関連から、「折り目」自体は、プリ−
ツと呼ばれる。
2. Description of the Related Art As represented by a skirt, there is known a processing method for forming a fold on a fabric. For example, folded skirts are called flared skirts, gathered skirts, pleated skirts, etc., and processing to add such folds to skirts, dresses, blouses, slacks, etc. Is generally referred to as pleating.
In relation to pleating, the "fold" itself is
Called tsu.

【0003】プリ−ツ加工を施すと、ほどよい陰影が衣
服に表現され、視覚的効果によって、美的印象が得られ
る。さらに、プリ−ツ加工によって柔軟性が衣服に加え
られるため、寸法的にさほど余裕のない衣服を身に付け
た場合でも、窮屈な感じが払拭されて十分な活動性が確
保できる。
[0003] When pleating is performed, moderate shades are expressed on clothes, and an aesthetic impression is obtained by a visual effect. In addition, since the pleating process adds flexibility to the garment, even when the garment is not so large in size, the cramped feeling is wiped out and sufficient activity can be secured.

【0004】プリ−ツ加工の施されたスカ−ト、ワンピ
−ス、ブラウス、スラックス等のプリ−ツ製品は、通
常、以下のような工程を経て成形されている。
[0004] Pleated products such as skirts, dresses, blouses and slacks, which have been subjected to pleating, are usually formed through the following steps.

【0005】まず、布地を所定形状のパ−ツにカッテ
イング(裁断)する(カッテイング加工)。
[0005] First, the fabric is cut (cut) into parts of a predetermined shape (cutting processing).

【0006】パ−ツをプレスする(プレス加工)。プ
レスすることによって、次のプリ−ツ加工で、シャ−プ
なプリ−ツが成形される。
[0006] The part is pressed (press working). By pressing, sharp pleats are formed in the next pleat processing.

【0007】パ−ツをプリ−ツ機械にかけて、所望の
折り目(プリ−ツ)をパ−ツに付ける(プリ−ツ加
工)。プリ−ツ機械で成形の難しい複雑なプリ−ツ加工
は手作業で行われる。
[0007] A desired fold (pleat) is applied to the part by applying the part to a pleating machine (pleating). Complex pleat processing, which is difficult to form with a pleat machine, is performed manually.

【0008】熱処理装置にパ−ツを入れ、飽和蒸気で
加熱して熱処理する(熱処理加工)。この熱処理によっ
て、プリ−ツが定着化して型崩れが阻止され、保持性の
よいプリ−ツが得られる。
A part is put into a heat treatment apparatus, and heat treatment is performed by heating with saturated steam (heat treatment). By this heat treatment, the pleats are fixed, the shape is prevented, and the pleats having good holding properties can be obtained.

【0009】プリ−ツ付パ−ツをミシンで縫製して、
プリ−ツ製品を仕上げる(縫製加工)。
[0009] The parts with pleats are sewn with a sewing machine,
Finish pleated products (sewing process).

【0010】このように、パ−ツ化した布地にプリ−ツ
加工を施した後、縫製してプリ−ツ製品化している。こ
こで、布地にプリ−ツ加工を施した後、プリ−ツ付布地
をパ−ツに裁断し、その後、縫製することもある。しか
し、この場合でも、プリ−ツ加工の後、縫製を行うこと
に変わりはない。
[0010] As described above, after the pleated fabric is pleated, it is sewn to produce a pleated product. Here, after pleating the fabric, the pleated fabric may be cut into parts and then sewn. However, even in this case, the sewing is still performed after the pleat processing.

【0011】なお、ポケット付け、ボタン付けは、縫製
加工において行われる。
The pocketing and buttoning are performed in the sewing process.

【0012】最近では、パ−ツを縫製して半製品化し、
半製品にプリ−ツ加工を施すポストプリ−ツ加工(post
pleats process)とでもいうべき加工方法が、特開平2
−269866号公報で提供されている。
Recently, parts have been sewn into semi-finished products,
Post pleat processing for pleating semi-finished products (post
A processing method that can be called a pleats process) is disclosed in
-269866.

【0013】このポストプリ−ツ加工によれば、縫製後
にプリ−ツ加工しているため、プリ−ツ加工の特徴であ
る柔軟性が失われない。また、縫製上の制約を受けない
ため、自由なデザインが可能となり、美的印象の異なる
バリエ−ションに富むデザインが得られる。
According to the post pleat processing, since the pleat processing is performed after the sewing, the flexibility which is a feature of the pleat processing is not lost. Also, since there is no restriction on sewing, a free design is possible, and a variety of designs with different aesthetic impressions can be obtained.

【0014】[0014]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】上記のように、従来の
加工方法では、カッテイング加工 プレス加工
プリ−ツ加工 熱処理加工 縫製加工 という多数
の工程を経るため、製品化に多くの時間を要し、需要に
対して迅速に対処できない。
As described above, in the conventional processing method, cutting processing, press processing,
Pleated processing Heat treatment processing Sewing processing involves many steps, so it takes a lot of time to commercialize and cannot respond quickly to demand.

【0015】プリ−ツ加工は、所望の折り目(プリ−
ツ)に対応した凹凸形状の上型、下型(プリ−ツ型)の
間に縫製前のパ−ツまたは縫製後のパ−ツ(半製品)を
挟持して行っている。広く使用されるプリ−ツに対して
は、耐久性を考慮したメタル製の標準のプリ−ツ型が用
意されており、標準のプリ−ツ型をプリ−ツ機械に取付
けて、プリ−ツ加工が行われる。
[0015] The pleating process is performed with a desired fold (pre-
The part before sewing or the part after sewing (semi-finished product) is sandwiched between upper and lower molds (pleat type) corresponding to the uneven shape corresponding to (ii). For widely used pleats, a standard pleat type made of metal in consideration of durability is prepared, and the pleat is attached to the pleat machine by attaching the standard pleat type. Processing is performed.

【0016】しかし、プリ−ツ機械で行うのが難しいプ
リ−ツ、たとえば、テ−パ−サイドプリ−ツ、アコ−デ
ィオンプリ−ツ、柄合わせ等の複雑なプリ−ツは、紙製
のプリ−ツ型を利用して手作業で行っているため、この
点からも製品化に時間を要する。
However, pleats which are difficult to make with a pleat machine, for example, complicated pleats such as taper side pleats, accordion pleats, and pattern matching, are made of paper. -Since the work is performed manually using a truss mold, it takes time to commercialize the product from this point as well.

【0017】プリ−ツ機械、手作業のいずれにおいて
も、プリ−ツ加工は、プリ−ツ型を利用しているため、
プリ−ツ型のないプリ−ツ加工は行えず、プリ−ツのデ
ザインが制約され、バリエ−ションに富むデザインのプ
リ−ツ製品が生産し難い。
In any of the pleating machine and the manual work, the pleating process uses a pleated type.
Pleating without a pleat type cannot be performed, the pleat design is restricted, and it is difficult to produce pleat products with a variety of designs.

【0018】そして、新たなプリ−ツ型を成形しようと
思っても、プリ−ツ型として上下一組の型を用意しなけ
ればならない。また、全体を一度でプリ−ツ加工するよ
うな大きさに、プリ−ツ型が成形される。そのため、プ
リ−ツ型の成形に時間を要し、プリ−ツ型の成形が迅速
な製品化のネックとなっている。さらに、プリ−ツ型が
高価になる。
Even if a new pleat mold is to be formed, a pair of upper and lower molds must be prepared as pleat molds. In addition, the pleated mold is formed in such a size that the whole is pleated at once. Therefore, it takes time to form the pleated die, and the pleated die is a bottleneck in rapid commercialization. Furthermore, the pleat type becomes expensive.

【0019】この発明は、バリエ−ションに富むデザイ
ンのプリ−ツ製品を迅速に製品化可能なプリ−ツ製品の
加工方法の提供を目的としている。
An object of the present invention is to provide a method of processing a pleated product that can rapidly produce a pleated product with a variety of designs.

【0020】[0020]

【課題を解決するための手段】この目的を達成するため
に、この発明の一実施例によれば、従来のような上型、
下型よりなるプリ−ツ型を使用せず、縫製後の半製品を
折り畳んでから絞り、絞ったまま半製品を熱処理してい
る。
In order to achieve this object, according to one embodiment of the present invention, a conventional upper die,
Without using a pleat mold consisting of a lower mold, the semi-finished product after the sewing is folded and then squeezed, and the semi-finished product is heat-treated while being squeezed.

【0021】半製品を折り畳んで絞ってから熱処理する
と、折り畳んだ形態、絞った形態に対応して折り目(プ
リ−ツ)が半製品に付けられ、プリ−ツ加工、熱処理加
工が同時に行われる。特に、折り畳み線を挟んで対称的
に一種独特のプリーツが成形される。
When the semi-finished product is folded and squeezed and then heat-treated, folds (pleats) are formed on the semi-finished product in accordance with the folded form and the squeezed form, and the pleating and heat treatment are performed simultaneously. In particular, a unique pleat is formed symmetrically with respect to the folding line.

【0022】[0022]

【実施例】以下、図面を参照しながらこの発明の実施例
について詳細に説明する。
Embodiments of the present invention will be described below in detail with reference to the drawings.

【0023】図1に示すようなブラウス10について、こ
の発明の一実施例によるプリ−ツ製品の加工方法を説明
する。たとえば、左右の袖11L、11R 、左右の前身頃12F
L、 12FR、一枚の後身頃12B のパ−ツを布地から裁断
し、パ−ツをミシンで縫製して、図1(A) に示す所望外
形の半製品14を形成する。縫製のとき、ポケット15、ボ
タン16が付けられる。
A method of processing a pleated product according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described for a blouse 10 as shown in FIG. For example, left and right sleeves 11L, 11R, left and right front body 12F
L, 12FR, one back body 12B part is cut from the fabric, and the part is sewn with a sewing machine to form a semi-finished product 14 having a desired outer shape shown in FIG. 1 (A). At the time of sewing, a pocket 15 and a button 16 are attached.

【0024】それから、たとえば、で示すように半製
品14の右上半部を表に折り畳み、で示すように、半製
品14を巻く(図1(A) 〜(C) 参照)。そして、半製品14
を適当に絞る(ねじる)(図1(D) 参照)。ここで、折
り畳むことなく、半製品14を直ちに巻いてもよい。ま
た、こぶを作るように絞ってもよい。
Then, for example, the upper right half of the semi-finished product 14 is folded up as shown by (1), and the semi-finished product 14 is wound as shown by (1) (see FIGS. 1A to 1C). And semi-finished products 14
Squeeze (twist) appropriately (see Fig. 1 (D)). Here, the semi-finished product 14 may be wound immediately without folding. Also, it may be squeezed so as to make a hump.

【0025】半製品14は、絞ったままホルダ−(図示し
ない)に取付けられ、ホルダ−とともに熱処理装置20に
入れられる(図2参照)。たとえば、ホルダ−は、一連
のクリップを対向して左右に配置したプレ−ト状とさ
れ、クリップで半製品14の左右の端を止めて、半製品が
熱処理装置20の内部に吊される。ホルダ−の構成はこれ
に限定されず、熱処理装置20の内部で飽和蒸気に浸され
るように、半製品を保持すれば足る。
The semi-finished product 14 is mounted on a holder (not shown) while being squeezed, and put into a heat treatment apparatus 20 together with the holder (see FIG. 2). For example, the holder is formed in a plate shape in which a series of clips are arranged on the left and right sides facing each other. The left and right ends of the semi-finished product 14 are stopped by the clips, and the semi-finished product is hung inside the heat treatment apparatus 20. The configuration of the holder is not limited to this, and it is sufficient to hold the semi-finished product so as to be immersed in the saturated steam inside the heat treatment apparatus 20.

【0026】熱処理装置20は公知のものであり、熱処理
装置内は飽和蒸気で充満され、半製品14は、その内部ま
で飽和蒸気に十分浸される。半製品14は、折り畳まれ、
巻かれて絞られているため、飽和蒸気に浸されると、折
り畳み方、巻き方、絞り方に応じた折り目(一種のプリ
−ツ)が半製品に成形されて、定着される。
The heat treatment apparatus 20 is a known one. The inside of the heat treatment apparatus is filled with saturated steam, and the semi-finished product 14 is fully immersed in the inside of the heat treatment apparatus with the saturated steam. Semi-finished product 14 is folded,
Since it is wound and squeezed, when it is immersed in saturated steam, the folds (a kind of pleat) corresponding to the way of folding, winding and squeezing are formed into a semi-finished product and fixed.

【0027】そして、熱処理後の半製品14を広げた図3
からよくわかるように、プリ−ツの付されたブラウス
(プリ−ツ製品)10が得られる。
FIG. 3 is an enlarged view of the semi-finished product 14 after the heat treatment.
As can be seen from FIG. 1, a blouse (pleated product) 10 with a pleat is obtained.

【0028】また、別のワンピ−ス30を中央で折り畳ん
でプリ−ツ加工する場合について述べると、図4(A) に
で示すように、縫製した半製品34の左右の袖31L、31R
を一点鎖線に沿って表に折り畳む。それから、たとえ
ば、で示すように左半部を右半部に重ね(図4(B)、図
5(C))、で示すように巻き(図5(D))、絞る(図5
(E))。
A case where another one-piece 30 is folded at the center for pleat processing will be described. As shown in FIG. 4A, the left and right sleeves 31L and 31R of the sewn semi-finished product 34 are used.
Is folded to the front along the chain line. Then, for example, the left half is superimposed on the right half as shown by (FIGS. 4 (B) and 5 (C)), wound (FIG. 5 (D)) as shown by (1), and squeezed (FIG. 5).
(E)).

【0029】そして、半製品34をホルダ−に吊して熱処
理装置に入れて熱処理すると、図6に示すようにプリ−
ツが左右対称に付いたブラウス(プリ−ツ製品)30が得
られる。なおこの実施例においても、図1の実施例にお
けるように折り畳んでから絞ってもよいことはいうまで
もない。
Then, the semi-finished product 34 is hung on a holder and placed in a heat treatment apparatus and heat-treated, as shown in FIG.
A blouse (pleated product) 30 with symmetrical heels is obtained. In this embodiment, it is needless to say that the aperture may be folded and then squeezed as in the embodiment of FIG.

【0030】従来の加工方法では、所望のプリ−ツに対
応した凹凸を持つ上型、下型(プリ−ツ型)の間に縫製
前のパ−ツまたは縫製後のパ−ツ(半製品)を挟持し、
プリ−ツを付けてから、熱処理している。
In a conventional processing method, a part before sewing or a part after sewing (semi-finished product) is placed between an upper die and a lower die (pleat type) having irregularities corresponding to desired pleats. )
After applying pleats, heat treatment is performed.

【0031】これに対して、この発明では、絞った半製
品14、34 を熱処理することによって、絞り方に対応した
プリ−ツが半製品に付けられ、熱処理において、プリ−
ツ加工が同時に施される。そのため、プリ−ツ加工、熱
処理加工を独立に行う従来の加工方法に比較して、この
発明では、工程数が削減され、プリ−ツ製品が迅速に生
産でき、需要に十分対処できる。
On the other hand, in the present invention, by heating the squeezed semi-finished products 14 and 34, pleats corresponding to the drawing method are attached to the semi-finished products.
Threading is performed at the same time. Therefore, in comparison with the conventional processing method in which the pleating and the heat treatment are independently performed, the number of steps is reduced, the pleated product can be rapidly produced, and the demand can be sufficiently satisfied.

【0032】また、従来の加工方法では、プリ−ツ型が
上下一組で大きなものとなるため、プリ−ツ型を迅速、
安価に成形できない。しかし、この発明では、プリ−ツ
型は使用しないため、プリ−ツ型の成形がネックとなら
ない。
Further, in the conventional processing method, since the pleat mold is large in a set of upper and lower parts, the pleat mold can be quickly and easily formed.
Cannot be molded at low cost. However, in the present invention, since the pleated mold is not used, the forming of the pleated mold does not become a bottleneck.

【0033】従来の加工方法では、手作業のプリ−ツ加
工は、上型、下型からなるプリ−ツ型にパ−ツまたは半
製品を挾んでひとつひとつ行うため、迅速に行えず、一
連の工程の中で、プリ−ツ加工がネックとなる傾向にあ
る。
In the conventional processing method, manual pleat processing is performed one by one with a part or semi-finished product sandwiched between a pleat type including an upper die and a lower die. In the process, pleating tends to be a bottleneck.

【0034】しかし、この発明では、半製品14、34 の絞
りは、手作業で迅速に行える。また、熱処理工程で同時
にプリ−ツ加工を行っても、それによって熱処理時間が
長くならない。そのため、ネックとなる工程はなく、プ
リ−ツ製品が迅速に得られる。
However, according to the present invention, the squeezing of the semi-finished products 14, 34 can be quickly performed manually. Further, even if the pleating is performed simultaneously in the heat treatment step, the heat treatment time is not prolonged. Therefore, there is no step as a bottleneck, and a pleated product can be obtained quickly.

【0035】縫製後にプリ−ツ加工しているため、縫製
上の制約を受けずにデザインできる。そして、巻きの開
始位置、巻き方向等の半製品14の巻き方を変えたり、密
または疎に絞つたり、絞り力等の絞り方を変えれば、美
的印象の異なるバリエ−ションに富むデザインが可能と
なる。また、巻く前に半製品14を折り畳めば、プリ−ツ
がほぼ対称に成形され、2つのブラウス10、30 からよく
わかるように、折り畳み方の違いから、美的印象の大き
く異なるプリ−ツ製品が得られる。
Since the pleat processing is performed after the sewing, the design can be performed without any restriction on the sewing. By changing the winding method of the semi-finished product 14 such as the winding start position, winding direction, etc., narrowing or squeezing densely or squeezing the drawing force, etc., a variety of designs with different aesthetic impressions can be obtained. It becomes possible. If the semi-finished product 14 is folded before winding, the pleats are formed almost symmetrically. can get.

【0036】このように、この発明では、一種独特な美
的印象のバリエ−ションに富むデザインが可能となり、
付加価値の高いプリ−ツ製品が容易に得られる。
Thus, according to the present invention, a variety of designs with a unique aesthetic impression can be realized.
A high value-added pleated product can be easily obtained.

【0037】さらに、プリ−ツ加工前にパ−ツを縫製し
ているため、布地の復元力を考慮する必要がなく、パ−
ツを押さえながら縫製しなくてよい。そのため、縫製が
迅速に行える。また、プリ−ツ加工前であるため、布地
の重なりも少なく、ミシンによる縫製が容易に行える。
Further, since the parts are sewn before the pleating process, there is no need to consider the restoring force of the fabric, and the parts are sewn.
There is no need to sew while holding down the shoes. Therefore, sewing can be performed quickly. Further, since the sheet is not pleated, there is little overlap between the fabrics, and sewing with a sewing machine can be easily performed.

【0038】縫製後にプリ−ツ加工しているため、プリ
−ツの特色である柔軟性が縫製によって損なわれること
がなく、柔軟性に富むプリ−ツ製品が得られる。
Since the pleating is performed after the sewing, the pliability, which is a characteristic feature of the pleated material, is not impaired by the sewing, and a pleated product with high flexibility can be obtained.

【0039】プリ−ツ機械でプリ−ツ加工する従来の加
工方法では、プリ−ツ機械に取付けたプリ−ツ型でボタ
ンを壊したり、プリ−ツ型がボタンで破損する虞れがあ
るため、ボタン付けは、プリ−ツ加工後に行われる。
In the conventional processing method of pleating with a pleating machine, there is a risk that the button may be broken by the pleated type attached to the pleating machine, or the pleated type may be damaged by the button. , Buttons are attached after pleat processing.

【0040】これに対して、この発明では、プリ−ツ型
を使用せず、絞った半製品14を熱処理してプリ−ツを半
製品に成形、定着しており、ボタン付けがプリ−ツ加工
前に行え、ボタン付のプリ−ツ製品も、ボタンなしのプ
リ−ツ製品と同様に扱える。また、ポケットもプリ−ツ
加工の障害とならず、プリ−ツ加工前に、ポケットの縫
い付けが行える。
On the other hand, in the present invention, the squeezed semi-finished product 14 is heat-treated to form and fix the pleated semi-finished product without using the pleated mold. Pleated products with buttons can be handled before processing and can be handled in the same way as pleated products without buttons. Also, the pocket does not become an obstacle to the pleat processing, and the pocket can be sewn before the pleat processing.

【0041】このように、ボタン付け、ポケット付けを
含む縫製が熱処理前に済まされ、熱処理でプリ−ツを成
形すれば、プリ−ツ製品10が直ちに得られる。そのた
め、熱処理後、プリ−ツ製品10を包装して販売ル−トに
直ちに流すことができ、製品化が促進される。
As described above, the sewing including the buttoning and the pocketing is completed before the heat treatment, and the pleated product 10 can be obtained immediately by forming the pleated material by the heat treatment. Therefore, after the heat treatment, the pleated product 10 can be packaged and immediately flowed to a sales route, which promotes commercialization.

【0042】ワンピ−ス70のプリ−ツ加工を図7〜図9
に示す。まず、左右の袖71L、71R、前身頃72F、後身頃72B
のパ−ツを布地から裁断し、縫製して図7(A) に示す所
望外形の半製品74を形成する。
FIGS. 7 to 9 show the pleat processing of the one-piece 70.
Shown in First, left and right sleeves 71L, 71R, front body 72F, back body 72B
The part is cut from the fabric and sewn to form a semi-finished product 74 having a desired outer shape as shown in FIG.

【0043】それから、左右の袖71L、71R をに示すよ
うに表に折り畳み、下半部を小刻みに重ねて折り畳む
(図7(B) 参照)。袖71L、71R を含む上半部を丸めてか
ら、半製品74を通気性、耐熱性に優れた軟質シ−ト、た
とえば、ウレタン−ト76にのせ(図8(C))、ウレタンシ
−トを巻き(図8(D))、絞り(図8(E))、紐77、78 で強
く縛る(図8(F))。
Then, the left and right sleeves 71L and 71R are folded face-up as shown in FIG. 7A, and the lower half is folded in small increments (see FIG. 7B). After the upper half including the sleeves 71L and 71R is rolled, the semi-finished product 74 is placed on a soft sheet having excellent air permeability and heat resistance, for example, a urethane sheet 76 (FIG. 8 (C)). (FIG. 8 (D)), squeezing (FIG. 8 (E)), and tightly binding with strings 77 and 78 (FIG. 8 (F)).

【0044】そして、クリップでウレタン−ト76の両端
を止めてホルダ−に吊して、ウレタン−トを熱処理装置
にいれる。すると、飽和蒸気がウレタン−ト76を介して
半製品74に触れ、折り畳み方、絞り方、縛り方に応じた
プリ−ツが成形され、定着されて、図9に示すようなプ
リ−ツ付ワンピ−ス70が得られる。
Then, both ends of the urethane 76 are stopped with clips and suspended from the holder, and the urethane is put into the heat treatment apparatus. Then, the saturated steam touches the semi-finished product 74 via the urethane 76, and the pleats are formed and fixed according to the way of folding, squeezing, and binding, and the pleats as shown in FIG. One piece 70 is obtained.

【0045】この実施例では、半製品74をウレタンシ−
ト76に巻き、ウレタンシ−トを紐で縛って熱処理してい
るため、縛り目に応じた複雑なプリ−ツが半製品74に成
形できる。また、下半部を重ねて折り畳んでいるため、
従来のプリ−ツと類似のプリ−ツが下半部に付けられ、
上半部を丸めてから巻いているため、複雑なプリ−ツが
上半部に付けられる。
In this embodiment, the semi-finished product 74 is made of urethane
Since the heat treatment is performed by wrapping the urethane sheet with a cord and tying the urethane sheet with a string, a complicated pleat corresponding to the ligature can be formed into the semi-finished product 74. Also, because the lower half is folded over
A pleat similar to the conventional pleat is attached to the lower half,
Since the upper half is rolled before being wound, complicated pleats are attached to the upper half.

【0046】このように、半製品を単に絞るだけでな
く、ウレタンシ−トのような軟質シ−ト76に巻いてから
縛ったり、小刻みに重ねて折り畳んだり、丸めたりする
ことに絞りを組合せることによって、複雑なプリ−ツも
十分に成形できる。なお、他の実施例においても、小刻
みに重ねて折り畳んだり、丸めてから半製品を巻いて絞
ってよい。
As described above, in addition to simply squeezing a semi-finished product, the squeezing is combined with winding on a soft sheet 76 such as urethane sheet and then tying it, folding it in small increments, and rolling. Thereby, complicated pleats can be formed sufficiently. In other embodiments, the semi-finished product may be wrapped and squeezed after being folded in small increments or rolled.

【0047】従来の方法では、ウェストのようないわゆ
る絞った部分は、布地からパ−ツ自体を細く裁断してお
く必要があり、絞り部分を多数設けると、裁断、縫製が
複雑化する。これに対して、この発明の方法では、以下
のように、プリ−ツの成形に伴って絞った部分が設定で
きる。
In the conventional method, the so-called squeezed portion such as the waist requires that the part itself be cut from the fabric finely. If a large number of squeezed portions are provided, the cutting and sewing become complicated. On the other hand, according to the method of the present invention, it is possible to set a portion narrowed down with the forming of the pleat as described below.

【0048】図10〜図11に示すように、たとえば、レイ
ンコ−ト90の半製品94の、袖口、袖の中央、袖と前身
頃、後身頃との結合部、ウェスト、ウェストの下方2ケ
所を含む計9ヶ所を縫製する。通常の縫製と区別するた
めに、この縫製を仮縫いと呼ぶこととする。そして、仮
縫いの糸を引き、半製品94を適当に絞る。糸を引くと、
仮縫い部分97が絞られるだけでなく、その回りが軽く折
り畳まれる(図12) 。
As shown in FIGS. 10 to 11, for example, the semi-finished product 94 of the raincoat 90 has cuffs, the center of the sleeve, the joint between the sleeve and the front body, the back body, the waist, and two places below the waist. Sewing is performed in a total of 9 places including. This sewing will be referred to as temporary sewing in order to distinguish it from normal sewing. Then, the thread of the temporary sewing is pulled, and the semi-finished product 94 is appropriately squeezed. When I pull the thread,
Not only is the sewn portion 97 squeezed, but the area around it is folded lightly (FIG. 12).

【0049】半製品94をプレスして、その形態を固定化
してから、円筒98に巻いて熱処理すれば、その形態でプ
リ−ツが成形、定着される。そして、熱処理後、糸を除
いても、そのままの形態が保たれ、図12にほぼ一致した
プリ−ツ付のレインコ−ト90が得られる。
When the semi-finished product 94 is pressed to fix its form, and then wound around a cylinder 98 and heat-treated, the pleated sheet is formed and fixed in that form. Then, after the heat treatment, even if the yarn is removed, the form is maintained as it is, and a leached raincoat 90 almost corresponding to FIG. 12 is obtained.

【0050】このように、仮縫いし、仮縫いの糸を引け
ば、絞りが自由に設定でき、その絞った形態で熱処理す
ると、絞ったままの形態でプリ−ツが施され、そのプリ
−ツは糸を抜いても崩れない。そして、仮縫いの糸の引
き方によって、絞りの形態を調整できる。また、実施例
では、表から裏まで全周的に仮縫いしているが、たとえ
ば、表または裏の一部といった局部的な仮縫いによっ
て、局部的なプリ−ツの成形が容易に行える。
In this manner, the sewn and the thread of the sewn stitch can be set freely by drawing, and when the heat treatment is performed in the squeezed form, the pleat is applied in the squeezed form. It does not collapse even if the thread is pulled. The form of the squeezing can be adjusted by how to draw the thread of the temporary sewing. Further, in the embodiment, temporary sewing is performed all around from the front to the back. However, for example, local pleats can be easily formed by local temporary sewing such as a part of the front or the back.

【0051】そのため、布地からのパ−ツの裁断と無関
係に、絞りが適宜設定でき、このような方法は裁断、縫
製を複雑化しない。従って、絞りの状態、絞りの位置を
自由にデザインでき、プリ−ツ製品における可能なデザ
インが飛躍的に拡大される。
Therefore, the aperture can be set appropriately regardless of the cutting of the part from the cloth, and such a method does not complicate the cutting and sewing. Therefore, the state of the stop and the position of the stop can be freely designed, and the possible designs of the pleated product are greatly expanded.

【0052】この実施例では、円筒98に巻いて熱処理し
ているため、円筒に巻いたまま包装すれば、販売ル−ト
に直ちに流すことができ、製品化が早められる。そし
て、円筒98に巻かれているため、型崩れが生じ難く、保
持性のよいプリ−ツ製品が容易に得られる。
In this embodiment, since the heat treatment is carried out by wrapping it around the cylinder 98, if it is wrapped around the cylinder and wrapped, it can be immediately flown to the sales route, and the product can be manufactured more quickly. And, since it is wound around the cylinder 98, it is hard to lose its shape and a pleated product having good holding properties can be easily obtained.

【0053】実施例では、プリ−ツ製品としてブラウス
10、30 、ポロシャツ50、ワンピ−ス70、レインコ−ト90
を例示したが、これらに限定されず、ティシャツ、スカ
−ト、スラックス、カクテルドレス等の種々のプリ−ツ
製品がこの発明の加工方法で加工できる。
In the embodiment, a blouse is used as a pleated product.
10, 30, polo shirt 50, dress 70, raincoat 90
However, the present invention is not limited thereto, and various pleated products such as shirts, skirts, slacks, and cocktail dresses can be processed by the processing method of the present invention.

【0054】実施例における折り畳み方、巻き方、絞り
方、紐での縛り方、仮縫い等は一例であり、他の折り畳
み方等が任意に選択できる。
The folding method, winding method, squeezing method, tying with a string, temporary sewing and the like in the embodiment are merely examples, and other folding methods can be arbitrarily selected.

【0055】上述した実施例は、この発明を説明するも
のであり、この発明を何ら限定するものでなく、この発
明の技術範囲内で変形、改造等の施されたものも全てこ
の発明に含まれることはいうまでもない。
The embodiments described above are intended to explain the present invention, and do not limit the present invention in any way. All modifications and alterations within the technical scope of the present invention are included in the present invention. Needless to say,

【0056】[0056]

【発明の効果】上記のように、この発明のプリ−ツ製品
の加工方法によれば、縫製後の半製品を折り畳み、巻い
て絞ってから熱処理することによって、折り畳み方、巻
き方、絞り方に対応したプリ−ツが半製品に付けられ、
熱処理において、プリ−ツ加工も同時に施される。その
ため、プリ−ツ加工、熱処理加工を独立に行う従来の加
工方法に比較して、この発明では、工程数が削減され、
プリ−ツ製品が迅速に生産でき、需要に十分対処でき
る。
As described above, according to the method for processing a pleated product according to the present invention, the sewn semi-finished product is folded, rolled, squeezed, and then heat-treated, thereby folding, winding, and squeezing. Pleat corresponding to is attached to semi-finished products,
In the heat treatment, pleating is performed at the same time. Therefore, in comparison with the conventional processing method in which pleating and heat treatment are performed independently, the number of steps is reduced in the present invention,
Pleat products can be produced quickly and can sufficiently meet demand.

【0057】半製品の折り畳み、巻き、絞りは何らの支
障なく迅速に行え、熱処理工程で同時にプリ−ツ加工が
施されても、それによって熱処理時間が長くならない。
また、プリ−ツ型を使用せず、プリ−ツ型の成形に時間
を取られることもない。そのため、ネックとなる工程が
なく、プリ−ツ製品が迅速に生産できる。
The folding, winding, and drawing of the semi-finished product can be performed quickly without any trouble. Even if the pleating is performed simultaneously in the heat treatment process, the heat treatment time is not lengthened.
Further, since no pleat mold is used, no time is required for molding the pleat mold. Therefore, the pleated product can be rapidly produced without any bottleneck process.

【0058】また、縫製後にプリ−ツ加工しているた
め、縫製上の制約を受けないでデザインできる。そし
て、半製品の巻き方や絞り方を変えたり、巻く前に半製
品を折り畳むことによって、視覚的効果の異なるバリエ
−ションに富むデザインが可能となる。このように、一
種独特な美的印象のバリエ−ションに富むデザインがプ
リ−ツ製品に具体化でき、付加価値の高いプリ−ツ製品
が容易に得られる。
Further, since the pleat processing is performed after the sewing, the design can be performed without being restricted by the sewing. By changing the method of winding and narrowing the semi-finished product or folding the semi-finished product before winding, a variety of designs having different visual effects can be realized. In this manner, a variety of designs with a unique aesthetic impression can be embodied in a pleated product, and a pleated product with high added value can be easily obtained.

【0059】さらに、プリ−ツ加工前にパ−ツを縫製し
ているため、布地の復元力を考慮する必要がなく、縫製
が迅速に行える。また、プリ−ツ加工前であるため、ミ
シンによる縫製が容易に行える。
Further, since the parts are sewn before the pleating process, there is no need to consider the restoring force of the fabric, and the sewing can be performed quickly. Further, since the sheet is not pleated, sewing with a sewing machine can be easily performed.

【0060】縫製後にプリ−ツ加工しているため、プリ
−ツの特色である柔軟性が縫製によって損なわれること
がなく、柔軟性に富むプリ−ツ製品が得られる。
Since the pleating is performed after the sewing, the pliability, which is a characteristic of the pleat, is not impaired by the sewing, and a pleated product with high flexibility can be obtained.

【0061】そして、ボタン付け、ポケット付けを含む
縫製が、熱処理前に済まされるため、熱処理でプリ−ツ
を成形すれば、プリ−ツ製品が直ちに得られ、熱処理
後、包装すれば、プリ−ツ製品を販売ル−トに直ちに流
すことができ、プリ−ツ製品の製品化が促進される。
Since the sewing including button attachment and pocket attachment is completed before the heat treatment, the pleated product can be obtained immediately by forming the pleated material by the heat treatment. The product can be immediately flowed to the sales route, which promotes the commercialization of the product.

【0062】部分的に重ねて折り畳んだり、丸めたりし
てから巻いて絞れば、複雑なデザインのプリ−ツが成形
される。
If the sheet is partially overlapped, folded or rolled and then rolled and squeezed, pleats having a complicated design are formed.

【0063】半製品をウレタンシ−トのような通気性、
耐熱性に優れた軟質シ−トに巻き、軟質シ−トを紐で縛
って熱処理すれば、縛り目に応じた複雑なプリ−ツが成
形される。
The semi-finished product is made of a breathable material such as urethane sheet,
If it is wound around a soft sheet having excellent heat resistance, and the soft sheet is tied up with a string and heat-treated, a complicated sheet corresponding to the seam is formed.

【0064】仮縫いし、仮縫いの糸を引いて絞り、プレ
スしてから熱処理すれば、絞ったままの形態でプリ−ツ
が施され、仮縫いの糸の引き方による絞り方、絞りの位
置を変えることによって、異なるプリ−ツが成形され
る。
If the seam is sewn, the sewn thread is pulled, drawn, pressed, and then heat-treated, pleats are applied in the squeezed form, and the way of drawing the sewn thread and the position of the squeezing are changed. Thereby, different pleats are formed.

【0065】このように、熱処理前に半製品を単に絞る
だけでなく、ウレタンシ−トのような軟質シ−トに巻い
てから縛ったり、重ねて折り畳んだり、丸めたりするこ
とに絞りを組合せたり、仮縫いによって熱処理加工で絞
ることによって、バリエ−ションの富むプリ−ツが成形
可能となり、従来のプリ−ツ製品の概念を根底から崩し
た新しいプリ−ツ製品が迅速に生産できる。
As described above, in addition to simply squeezing the semi-finished product before the heat treatment, the squeezing may be performed by winding it on a soft sheet such as urethane sheet and then tying it, folding it on top of another, folding or rolling it. By squeezing by heat treatment using temporary sewing, pleats with rich variations can be formed, and new pleat products that break the concept of conventional pleat products from the ground up can be rapidly produced.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of the drawings]

【図1】半製品の絞り方の一例を示す概略図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a method of drawing a semi-finished product.

【図2】半製品を熱処理装置に入れる工程を示す概略図
である。
FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing a step of putting a semi-finished product into a heat treatment apparatus.

【図3】プリ−ツ製品(ブラウス)の展開図である。FIG. 3 is a development view of a pleated product (blouse).

【図4】半製品の別の絞り方を示す概略図である。FIG. 4 is a schematic view showing another method of drawing a semi-finished product.

【図5】半製品の別の絞り方を示す概略図である。FIG. 5 is a schematic view showing another method of drawing a semi-finished product.

【図6】プリ−ツ製品(ブラウス)の展開図である。FIG. 6 is a development view of a pleated product (blouse).

【図7】ウレタンシ−トで半製品を巻いてから絞り、紐
で縛った半製品の概略図である。
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product obtained by winding a semi-finished product with a urethane sheet, squeezing the semi-finished product, and tying the semi-finished product with a string.

【図8】ウレタンシ−トで半製品を巻いてから絞り、紐
で縛った半製品の概略図である。
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product obtained by winding a semi-finished product with a urethane sheet, squeezing the semi-finished product, and tying the semi-finished product with a string.

【図9】プリ−ツ製品(ワンピ−ス)の展開図である。FIG. 9 is a development view of a pleated product (one piece).

【図10】仮縫いする前での半製品の概略図である。FIG. 10 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product before temporary sewing.

【図11】仮縫いした半製品の概略図である。FIG. 11 is a schematic view of a temporarily sewn semi-finished product.

【図12】仮縫いを利用して半製品を絞った半製品の概
略図である。
FIG. 12 is a schematic view of a semi-finished product obtained by squeezing a semi-finished product using temporary sewing.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

10、30、70、90 プリ−ツ製品(ブラウス、ポロシャツ、
ワンピ−ス、レインコ−ト) 11L、11R、31L、31R、71L、71R パ−ツ(袖) 12FL、12FR、32FL、32FR、72F パ−ツ(前身頃) 12B、32B、72B パ−ツ(後身頃) 14、34、74、94 半製品(縫製されたパ−ツ) 15 ポケット 16 ボタン 20 熱処理装置 76 ウレタンシ−ト(軟質シ−ト) 77、78 紐
10, 30, 70, 90 pleated products (blouse, polo shirt,
One piece, raincoat) 11L, 11R, 31L, 31R, 71L, 71R parts (sleeve) 12FL, 12FR, 32FL, 32FR, 72F parts (front body) 12B, 32B, 72B parts ( Back body) 14, 34, 74, 94 Semi-finished product (sewing parts) 15 Pocket 16 Button 20 Heat treatment unit 76 Urethane sheet (Soft sheet) 77, 78 String

Claims (5)

(57)【特許請求の範囲】(57) [Claims] 【請求項1】 縫製後の半製品を折り畳んでから巻いて
絞り、絞られた半製品を熱処理装置に入れ、半製品に熱
処理を施してプリ−ツを成形したプリ−ツ製品の加工方
法。
1. A method of processing a pleated product in which a sewn semi-finished product is folded, wound and squeezed, the squeezed semi-finished product is put into a heat treatment apparatus, and the semi-finished product is subjected to a heat treatment to form a pleated product.
【請求項2】 縫製後の半製品を折畳んでから、通気
性、耐熱性に優れた軟質シ−トで覆って巻き、軟質シ−
トを絞り、紐で縛ってから熱処理装置に入れ、半製品に
熱処理を施してプリ−ツを成形したプリ−ツ製品の加工
方法。
2. The semi-finished product after the sewing is folded, covered with a soft sheet having excellent air permeability and heat resistance, and wound.
A method of processing a pleated product by squeezing, tying it with a string, placing it in a heat treatment apparatus, and subjecting the semi-finished product to heat treatment to form a pleated sheet.
【請求項3】 縫製後の半製品の一部分を小刻みに重ね
て折畳むとともに、他の部分を丸めてから通気性、耐熱
性に優れた軟質シ−トで覆って巻き、軟質シ−トを絞
り、紐で縛ってから熱処理装置に入れ、半製品に熱処理
を施してプリ−ツを成形したプリ−ツ製品の加工方法。
3. A part of the semi-finished product after sewing is folded in small increments, and the other part is rolled, and then covered with a soft sheet having excellent air permeability and heat resistance, and wound to form a soft sheet. A method of processing a pleated product in which a semi-finished product is subjected to a heat treatment to form a pleated product after being drawn and tied with a string and then placed in a heat treatment apparatus.
【請求項4】 縫製後の半製品を仮縫いし、仮縫いの糸
を引いて仮縫い部分を絞り、絞った後、プレスして熱処
理装置に入れ、半製品に熱処理を施してプリ−ツを成形
したプリ−ツ製品の加工方法。
4. The sewn semi-finished product is tentatively sewn, the tentatively sewn thread is pulled, the tentatively sewn part is squeezed, squeezed, pressed and put into a heat treatment apparatus, and the semi-finished product is subjected to heat treatment to form pleats. Processing method for pleated products.
【請求項5】 縫製後の半製品を仮縫いし、仮縫いの糸
を引いて仮縫い部分を絞り、絞った後、プレスして円筒
に巻いてから熱処理装置に入れ、半製品に熱処理を施し
てプリ−ツを成形したプリ−ツ製品の加工方法。
5. The sewn semifinished product is tentatively sewn, the tentatively sewn thread is pulled, the tentatively sewn portion is squeezed, squeezed, pressed, wound into a cylinder, put into a heat treatment apparatus, and subjected to heat treatment on the semifinished product. -A method of processing a pleated product obtained by molding a ply.
JP3233769A 1991-08-22 1991-08-22 Processing of pleated products Expired - Fee Related JP2850166B2 (en)

Priority Applications (8)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3233769A JP2850166B2 (en) 1991-08-22 1991-08-22 Processing of pleated products
CA 2067542 CA2067542C (en) 1991-08-22 1992-04-29 Method of pleating garments and pleated garments
EP19920304417 EP0529766B1 (en) 1991-08-22 1992-05-15 Method of pleating garments and pleated garments
DE1992613625 DE69213625T2 (en) 1991-08-22 1992-05-15 Process for pleating clothes and pleated clothes
ES92304417T ES2092036T3 (en) 1991-08-22 1992-05-15 METHOD FOR PLEASING DRESSES AND PLEATED DRESSES.
KR1019920010930A KR970000315B1 (en) 1991-08-22 1992-06-23 Method of pleating garments and pleated garments
CN 92105056 CN1025753C (en) 1991-08-22 1992-06-24 Method of pleating garments and pleated garments
US08/036,536 US5356055A (en) 1991-08-22 1993-03-22 Method of pleating garments

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP3233769A JP2850166B2 (en) 1991-08-22 1991-08-22 Processing of pleated products

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH0598563A JPH0598563A (en) 1993-04-20
JP2850166B2 true JP2850166B2 (en) 1999-01-27

Family

ID=16960289

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP3233769A Expired - Fee Related JP2850166B2 (en) 1991-08-22 1991-08-22 Processing of pleated products

Country Status (7)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0529766B1 (en)
JP (1) JP2850166B2 (en)
KR (1) KR970000315B1 (en)
CN (1) CN1025753C (en)
CA (1) CA2067542C (en)
DE (1) DE69213625T2 (en)
ES (1) ES2092036T3 (en)

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EP1138815A1 (en) * 2000-03-10 2001-10-04 Norichika Kondo Method for tie-dyeing and shrinking of clothing
EP1132515A1 (en) * 2000-03-10 2001-09-12 Norichika Kondo Shrinking clothing utilising tying techniques
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CN101067280B (en) * 2007-05-29 2011-04-27 程金魁 Pleating crease processing method for clothes and shell fabric
CN101953522A (en) * 2010-04-14 2011-01-26 苏州晃石服装整理有限公司 Equipment for manufacturing arcuate folds
CN102094316B (en) * 2010-12-08 2012-07-25 浙江台华新材料股份有限公司 Plain creased fabric and manufacturing method thereof
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CN102960866B (en) * 2012-11-13 2014-11-26 广东金潮集团有限公司 Point arrangement grading method for irregular pleated fabric of wedding gown and evening gown
US10156039B2 (en) * 2016-02-09 2018-12-18 Shelley Komarov Garments with two-way pleated elements and methods for manufacturing thereof
GB2566250A (en) 2017-06-20 2019-03-13 Petit Pli Ltd Garment pleating
CN107736672A (en) * 2017-11-16 2018-02-27 东华大学 A kind of apparel modeling method for using elastic force screen cloth its own resilient shrink pleating
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE69213625D1 (en) 1996-10-17
KR970000315B1 (en) 1997-01-08
CA2067542C (en) 1996-10-08
CN1070236A (en) 1993-03-24
JPH0598563A (en) 1993-04-20
CA2067542A1 (en) 1993-02-23
EP0529766B1 (en) 1996-09-11
ES2092036T3 (en) 1996-11-16
CN1025753C (en) 1994-08-24
EP0529766A1 (en) 1993-03-03
DE69213625T2 (en) 1997-04-17

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