JP2021088529A - Penetration promoter and cosmetics containing the same - Google Patents
Penetration promoter and cosmetics containing the same Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2021088529A JP2021088529A JP2019219667A JP2019219667A JP2021088529A JP 2021088529 A JP2021088529 A JP 2021088529A JP 2019219667 A JP2019219667 A JP 2019219667A JP 2019219667 A JP2019219667 A JP 2019219667A JP 2021088529 A JP2021088529 A JP 2021088529A
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- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- water
- skin
- active ingredient
- cosmetic
- soluble active
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、保湿力を有し、肌なじみの良い、水及び／又は水溶性有効成分の皮膚への浸透促進剤、及びそれを含有する水系化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to an agent for promoting the penetration of water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, which has moisturizing power and is familiar to the skin, and a water-based cosmetic containing the same.
健康な肌は皮膚のバリア機能が正常に作用しているため、疎水性を示しており、水及び水溶性の有効成分が浸透しにくいといった性質がある。一般的に保湿剤として化粧料に汎用されるグリセリンなどの２価以上の水酸基を持つ水溶性分子は、保水力を有することから、肌水分量を高める働きが知られているが、疎水性である肌表面とのなじみが悪く、肌内部に浸透することはない。また、エタノールなどの揮発性溶剤を配合することで、肌へのなじみを良くすることはできるが、肌への刺激性が高まるなど安全性の問題があった。
従来、水溶性有効成分の肌内部への浸透方法としては、有効成分をアシル化などの誘導体化すること（特許文献１）や有効成分ごとに界面活性剤で内包した固形分を油中分散（特許文献２）する方法が知られているが、これらは工程が複雑化するなど汎用的ではなかった。
Since healthy skin has a normal skin barrier function, it is hydrophobic and has the property that water and water-soluble active ingredients do not easily penetrate. Water-soluble molecules with divalent or higher hydroxyl groups, such as glycerin, which is generally used as a moisturizer in cosmetics, are known to have a function of increasing skin moisture content because they have water retention ability, but they are hydrophobic. It does not fit well with a certain skin surface and does not penetrate inside the skin. Further, by blending a volatile solvent such as ethanol, it is possible to improve the familiarity with the skin, but there is a safety problem such as increased irritation to the skin.
Conventionally, as a method of penetrating the water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, the active ingredient is derivatized by acylation or the like (Patent Document 1), or the solid content contained in each active ingredient with a surfactant is dispersed in oil (Patent Document 1). Patent Document 2) methods are known, but these are not general-purpose because the process is complicated.
本発明は、前記従来の技術を鑑みてなされたものであり、保湿力を有しつつ、塗布時の肌なじみを向上させ、さらに水及び／又は水溶性有効成分を皮膚に浸透させる浸透促進剤、及びこれを配合した安定性に優れた化粧料を提供することを課題とする。 The present invention has been made in view of the above-mentioned conventional technique, and is a permeation promoter that has moisturizing power, improves skin compatibility at the time of application, and further permeates water and / or water-soluble active ingredient into the skin. , And to provide a highly stable cosmetic containing the same.
本発明者らは、上記課題を解決すべく鋭意研究を行った結果、特定のポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルを化粧料に配合することによって、水及び／又は水溶性有効成分を皮膚へ浸透させることに対して、優れた促進効果を示すことを見出し、本発明を完成させるに至った。 As a result of diligent research to solve the above problems, the present inventors have decided to infiltrate water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient into the skin by blending a specific polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether into a cosmetic. On the other hand, they have found that they exhibit an excellent promoting effect, and have completed the present invention.
本発明により、保湿力を有しつつ、塗布時の肌なじみを向上させ、さらに水及び／又は水溶性有効成分を皮膚に浸透させる浸透促進剤、及びこれを含有することを特徴とする安定性に優れた化粧料を提供することができる。 INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, while having moisturizing power, a penetration promoter that improves skin compatibility at the time of application and further allows water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient to penetrate into the skin, and stability characterized by containing the same. Can provide excellent cosmetics.
以下、本発明について詳述する。なお、以下において、オキシプロピレン基をＰＯ、ポリオキシプロピレン基をＰＯＰ、ポリプロピレングリコールをＰＰＧのように略して記載する場合がある。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the following, the oxypropylene group may be abbreviated as PO, the polyoxypropylene group as POP, and polypropylene glycol as PPG.
本発明に用いるポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルは、オキシプロピレン基の平均付加モル数が２〜１８である。また、グリセリン基の重合度は１〜３である。本発明に用いるポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルには、ポリオキシプロピレンモノグリセリルエーテル、ポリオキシプロピレンジグリセリルエーテル、ポリオキシプロピレントリグリセリルエーテルが挙げられ、前記オキシプロピレン基の平均付加モル数は、２〜１８、より好ましくは５〜１５である。オキシプロピレン基の平均付加モル数が少なすぎると肌なじみが悪くなり、多すぎると水系製剤への配合が困難となる場合がある。 The polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether used in the present invention has an average number of moles of oxypropylene groups added of 2 to 18. The degree of polymerization of the glycerin group is 1 to 3. Examples of the polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether used in the present invention include polyoxypropylene monoglyceryl ether, polyoxypropylene diglyceryl ether, and polyoxypropylene triglyceryl ether, and the average number of moles of the oxypropylene group added is 2 to 18. , More preferably 5 to 15. If the average number of moles of the oxypropylene group added is too small, it may not be compatible with the skin, and if it is too large, it may be difficult to incorporate it into an aqueous preparation.
また、ポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルは公知の方法において製造することができ、具体的には、アルカリ触媒下のポリグリセリンに対して１３０〜１６０℃にてプロピレンオキサイドを付加重合することで得られる。本発明のポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルは市販品でもよく、例えば「ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＳＧ−ＤＧ９００Ｐ」（ジグリセリルＰＯ９モル付加物、日光ケミカルズ社製）、「ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＳＧ−ＤＧ１４００Ｐ」（ジグリセリルＰＯ１４モル付加物、日光ケミカルズ社製）、「ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＳＧ−ＴＧ９００Ｐ」（トリグリセリルＰＯ９モル付加物、日光ケミカルズ社製）、「ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＳＧ−ＴＧ１４００Ｐ」（トリグリセリルＰＯ１４モル付加物、日光ケミカルズ社製）等を用いることができ、これらを１種又は２種以上配合することができる。 Further, the polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether can be produced by a known method, and specifically, it is obtained by addition polymerization of propylene oxide with polyglycerin under an alkali catalyst at 130 to 160 ° C. The polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether of the present invention may be a commercially available product, for example, "NIKKOL SG-DG900P" (diglyceryl PO 9 mol adduct, manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), "NIKKOL SG-DG1400P" (diglyceryl PO 14 mol adduct, Nikko). Chemicals), "NIKKOL SG-TG900P" (triglyceryl PO 9 mol adduct, Nikko Chemicals), "NIKKOL SG-TG1400P" (triglyceryl PO 14 mol adduct, Nikko Chemicals), etc. can be used. , These can be blended in one kind or two or more kinds.
本発明のポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルの化粧料への配合量は、化粧料全量中０．１〜２０質量％、好ましくは１〜１５質量％、更に好ましくは２〜１０質量％である。このような範囲であると、水及び／又は水溶性有効成分の皮膚への浸透を促進させる優れた効果を発揮することができる。 The amount of the polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether of the present invention to be blended in the cosmetic is 0.1 to 20% by mass, preferably 1 to 15% by mass, and more preferably 2 to 10% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. Within such a range, it is possible to exert an excellent effect of promoting the penetration of water and / or the water-soluble active ingredient into the skin.
本発明に用いられる水溶性有効成分としては、特に制限されないが、保湿剤や美白剤、抗炎症剤、抗老化剤、シワ改善剤、肌荒れ防止剤、植物エキス等が挙げられ、例えば、尿素、ヒアルロン酸、ヒアルロン酸Ｎａ、ケラチン分解ペプチド、加水分解ケラチン、コラーゲン、魚由来コラーゲン、アテロコラーゲン、ゼラチン、エラスチン、コラーゲン分解ペプチド、加水分解コラーゲン、塩化ヒドロキシプロピルアンモニウム加水分解コラーゲン、エラスチン分解ペプチド、コンキオリン分解ペプチド、加水分解コンキオリン、シルク蛋白分解ペプチド、加水分解シルク、ラウロイル加水分解シルクナトリウム、大豆蛋白分解ペプチド、小麦蛋白、小麦蛋白分解ペプチド、加水分解小麦蛋白、カゼイン分解ペプチド等の蛋白ペプチド類及びその誘導体；パルミトイルオリゴペプチド、パルミトイルペンタペプチド、パルミトイルテトラペプチド等のアシル化ペプチド類；ベタイン（トリメチルグリシン）、プロリン、ヒドロキシプロリン、アルギニン、リジン、セリン、グリシン、アラニン、フェニルアラニン、チロシン、β−アラニン、スレオニン、グルタミン酸、グルタミン、アスパラギン、アスパラギン酸、システイン、シスチン、メチオニン、ロイシン、イソロイシン、バリン、トリプトファン、ヒスチジン、タウリン、γ−アミノ酪酸、γ−アミノ−β−ヒドロキシ酪酸、カルニチン、カルノシン、クレアチン等のアミノ酸類及びその塩並びに誘導体；１８−メチルエイコサン酸塩、分岐脂肪酸（１２〜３１）塩、ラノリン脂肪酸塩、エチル硫酸１８−メチルエイコサン酸アミノプロピルエチルジメチルアンモニウム、エチル硫酸長鎖分岐脂肪酸（１２〜３１）アミノプロピルエチルジメチルアンモニウム、エチル硫酸ラノリン脂肪酸アミノプロピルエチルジメチルアンモニウム等の１８−メチルエイコサン酸及びアンテイソ脂肪酸誘導体；糖セラミド等の水溶性スフィンゴ脂質；アスコルビン酸及びそのナトリウム等の塩等のビタミンＣ類；アスコルビン酸エチルエーテル等のアスコルビン酸アルキルエーテル、アスコルビン酸−２−グルコシド等のアスコルビン酸グルコシド及びその脂肪酸エステル、アスコルビン酸リン酸エステルナトリウム塩及びアスコルビン酸リン酸エステルマグネシウム塩、パルミトイルアスコルビン酸リン酸エステルナトリウム塩、リン酸トコフェリルアスコルビル等のアスコルビン酸リン酸エステル塩等のアスコルビン酸誘導体；チアミン塩酸塩、チアミン硫酸塩、リボフラビン、酢酸リボフラビン、塩酸ピリドキシン、フラビンアデニンジヌクレオチド、シアノコバラミン、葉酸類、ニコチン酸、ニコチン酸アミド等のニコチン酸類；コリン類等のビタミンＢ群類；パントテン酸、パンテニルエチルエーテル、パンテノール、ビオチン等のその他ビタミン類；トコフェロールリン酸エステル等の水溶性ビタミンＥ類；アルブチン、α−アルブチン等のヒドロキノン配糖体及びそのエステル類；コウジ酸、エラグ酸塩、トラネキサム酸塩及びその誘導体、フェルラ酸塩及びその誘導体、プラセンタエキス、グルタチオン、グリチルリチン酸及びその誘導体及びその塩、グリチルレチン酸誘導体、サリチル酸誘導体、アラントイン、カフェイン、ルチン及び配糖体等の誘導体；ヘスペリジン及び配糖体等の誘導体；西河柳エキス、ローズマリー葉エキス、モモ葉エキス、カミツレ葉エキス、ブドウ葉エキス等の各種植物エキス等が挙げられ、これらを１種又は２種以上配合することができる。特に、これら水溶性有効成分のうち、アミノ酸類及びその塩並びにアミノ酸類誘導体、ヒアルロン酸及びその塩、アスコルビン酸及びその塩等のアスコルビン酸類誘導体及びその塩、尿素、植物エキス等が好ましい。 The water-soluble active ingredient used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include moisturizing agents, whitening agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-aging agents, wrinkle improving agents, rough skin inhibitors, plant extracts, and the like. Hyaluronic acid, Na hyaluronate, keratin-degrading peptide, hydrolyzed keratin, collagen, fish-derived collagen, atelocollagen, gelatin, elastin, collagen-degrading peptide, hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropylammonium chloride hydrolyzed collagen, elastin-degrading peptide, conchiolin-degrading peptide , Hydrolyzed conchiolin, silk proteolytic peptide, hydrolyzed silk, lauroyl hydrolyzed silk sodium, soybean proteolytic peptide, wheat protein, wheat proteolytic peptide, hydrolyzed wheat protein, casein-degraded peptide and other protein peptides and their derivatives; Aylated peptides such as palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide; betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, β-alanine, threonine, glutamate , Glutamine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, tryptophan, histidine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosin, creatine and other amino acids and The salts and derivatives; 18-methyleicosanthate, branched fatty acid (12-31) salt, lanolin fatty acid salt, ethylsulfate 18-methyleicosanoate aminopropylethyldimethylammonium, ethylsulfate long chain branched fatty acid (12-31). ) 18-Methyleicosanoic acid and anteiso fatty acid derivatives such as aminopropylethyldimethylammonium and lanolin fatty acid aminopropylethyldimethylammonium; water-soluble sphingolipids such as sugar ceramide; vitamin C such as ascorbic acid and salts thereof such as sodium thereof. Kind: Alkyl ascorbic acid such as ethyl ether ascorbate, Ascorbic acid glucoside such as ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and its fatty acid ester, sodium ascorbic acid ester and magnesium ascorbate phosphate, palmitoyl ascorbic acid phosphate Ascorbi such as sodium ester ester, tocopheryl phosphate ascorbyl, etc. Ascorbic acid derivatives such as acid phosphate ester salts; thiamine hydrochloride, thiamine sulfate, riboflavin, riboflavin acetate, pyridoxin hydrochloride, flavin adenine dinucleotide, cyanocobalamine, folic acids, nicotinic acid, nicotinic acids such as nicotinic acid amide; choline Vitamin B group such as; other vitamins such as pantothenic acid, pantenyl ethyl ether, pantenol, biotin; water-soluble vitamin E such as tocopherol phosphate; hydroquinone glycosides such as arbutin and α-arbutin and Esters; codic acid, ellagitate, tranexamate and its derivatives, ferulate and its derivatives, placenta extract, glutathione, glycyrrhizinic acid and its derivatives and salts thereof, glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives, salicylate derivatives, allantin, caffeine , Derivatives such as rutin and glycosides; Derivatives such as hesperidin and glycosides; various plant extracts such as Nishikawayanagi extract, rosemary leaf extract, peach leaf extract, chamomile leaf extract, grape leaf extract, etc. Can be blended in one type or two or more types. In particular, among these water-soluble active ingredients, amino acids and salts thereof, amino acid derivatives, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, ascorbic acid derivatives such as ascorbic acid and salts thereof, salts thereof, urea, plant extracts and the like are preferable.
本発明に係る水溶性有効成分の配合量は、化粧料の剤形によって、適宜配合することができる。また、本発明の化粧料の剤形としては、例えば、水系ローション、ジェル、ミルク、クリーム、パック用化粧水、頭皮ケアローションなどが挙げられるが、特に限定されるものではない。 The blending amount of the water-soluble active ingredient according to the present invention can be appropriately blended depending on the dosage form of the cosmetic. The dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention includes, for example, water-based lotion, gel, milk, cream, lotion for facial mask, scalp care lotion, and the like, but is not particularly limited.
本発明における化粧料には、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲において、通常の化粧料に用いられる各種成分、例えば、界面活性剤、油性成分、高級アルコール、多価アルコール、極性脂質、脂肪酸、水溶性高分子、油溶性有効成分、抗菌成分、粘度調整剤、細胞賦活剤、色素、紫外線吸収剤、香料などを配合できる。 The cosmetics in the present invention include various components used in ordinary cosmetics, such as surfactants, oily components, higher alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, polar lipids, fatty acids, and water-soluble substances, as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. It can contain a polar polymer, an oil-soluble active ingredient, an antibacterial ingredient, a viscosity modifier, a cell activator, a pigment, an ultraviolet absorber, a fragrance, and the like.
界面活性剤としては、例えば、ＰＯＥグリセリン脂肪酸エステル類、ＰＯＥ・ＰＯＰアルキルエーテル類、ポリソルベート類、ソルビタン脂肪酸エステル類、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル類、ショ糖脂肪酸エステル類などのノ二オン性界面活性剤、脂肪酸石鹸類、硫酸エステル類、アシル化アミノ酸塩類、リン酸エステル類などのアニオン性界面活性剤、第４級アンモニウム塩などのカチオン性界面活性剤などが挙げられ、油性成分としては、スクワラン、流動パラフィンなどの炭化水素油、オリーブ油、マカデミアンナッツ油、ホホバ油などの植物油、動物油、トリエチルヘキサノイン、トリ（カプリル酸／カプリン酸）グリセリル、エチルヘキサン酸セチル、セバシン酸エチル、パルミチン酸エチルへキシルなどのエステル油類、ジメチコン、フェニルシリコーンなどのシリコーン油類などが挙げられ、高級アルコールとしては、ラウリルアルコール、ミリスチルアルコール、セチルアルコール、ステアリルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、べへニルアルコールなどが挙げられる。極性脂質としては、セラミド類、糖セラミド類、リン脂質類、コレステロール及びその誘導体、糖脂質などが挙げられる。油溶性有効成分としては、レチノール、レチナール、カロテノイド、トコフェロール、テトラへキシルデカン酸アスコルビルなどのビタミン誘導体およびその塩、インドメタシン、ヒノキチオール、グアイアズレン、α−リポ酸等が挙げられる。 Examples of the surfactant include nonionic surfactants such as POE glycerin fatty acid esters, POE / POP alkyl ethers, polysorbates, sorbitan fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, and sucrose fatty acid esters, and fatty acids. Examples include anionic surfactants such as soaps, sulfate esters, acylated amino acid salts and phosphoric acid esters, and cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium salts. Examples of oily components include squalane and liquid paraffin. Hydrocarbon oils such as olive oil, macadamian nut oil, vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, animal oils, triethylhexanoin, tri (capric acid / capric acid) glyceryl, cetyl ethylhexanoate, ethyl sebacate, ethylhexyl palmitate, etc. Esther oils, dimethicone, silicone oils such as phenylsilicone, etc., and higher alcohols include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, etc. Be done. Examples of polar lipids include ceramides, glycoceramides, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, glycolipids and the like. Examples of the oil-soluble active ingredient include vitamin derivatives such as retinol, retinal, carotenoid, tocopherol, ascorbyl tetrahexyldecanoate and salts thereof, indomethacin, hinokithiol, guaiazulene, α-lipoic acid and the like.
以下に実施例を挙げて本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明の技術的範囲がこれらに限定されるものではない。なお、実施例中における各成分の配合量を示す単位は、特に記載のない限り質量％とする。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples, but the technical scope of the present invention is not limited thereto. The unit indicating the blending amount of each component in the examples is mass% unless otherwise specified.
実施例１：ポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルの調製
表１に示すグリセリン重合度及びオキシプロピレン基（ＰＯ）の付加モル数に従って、Ａ１〜Ａ８の化合物を得た。
Example 1: Preparation of Polyoxypropylene Polyglyceryl Ether Compounds A1 to A8 were obtained according to the degree of glycerin polymerization shown in Table 1 and the number of moles of oxypropylene group (PO) added.
実施例２：ポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテル配合化粧料の評価
１．化粧料の調製
表２に示す各成分を、スターラーを用いて室温で３０分間撹拌することで化粧料を調製した。
Example 2: Evaluation of cosmetics containing polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether 1. Preparation of cosmetics Cosmetics were prepared by stirring each component shown in Table 2 at room temperature for 30 minutes using a stirrer.
２．化粧料の評価項目
以下の３項目について、それぞれ評価を行った。
（１）浸透促進効果
パネラー２０名の上腕を洗浄剤で洗浄後、１５分間馴化した（２２℃、湿度５０％）。Ｅｐｓｉｌｏｎ（Ｂｉｏｘ社製）を用い、馴化後の上腕の誘電率（皮膚の水分量）を測定した。次に、コットンにしみこませた表２に示す調製化粧料を上腕にのせ、１分間コットンの上から手で押さえた。その後、水を浸みこませたコットンで、塗布した化粧料を除去し、キムワイプで１分間押さえ、完全に乾燥した状態で再度、上腕の誘電率を測定した。馴化後の誘電率を１００％とした相対値（％）を算出することで、水の浸透促進効果の評価を行った。評価は次の基準により判定した。
（評価基準）
Ａ：１２０％以上
Ｂ：１１０％以上１２０％未満
Ｃ：１００％以上１１０％未満
Ｄ：１００％未満
2. Evaluation items for cosmetics The following three items were evaluated respectively.
(1) Penetration promoting effect The upper arms of 20 panelists were washed with a detergent and then acclimated for 15 minutes (22 ° C., humidity 50%). Using Epsilon (manufactured by Biox), the permittivity (moisture content of the skin) of the upper arm after acclimation was measured. Next, the prepared cosmetics shown in Table 2 soaked in cotton were placed on the upper arm and pressed by hand from above the cotton for 1 minute. Then, the applied cosmetic was removed with a cotton soaked in water, pressed with a Kimwipe for 1 minute, and the dielectric constant of the upper arm was measured again in a completely dry state. The effect of promoting water permeation was evaluated by calculating a relative value (%) with the dielectric constant after acclimation as 100%. The evaluation was judged according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: 120% or more B: 110% or more and less than 120% C: 100% or more and less than 110% D: less than 100%
（２）肌なじみ
パネラー２０名に表２に示す調製化粧料を塗布した際の肌なじみについて、官能評価を行った。評価は次の基準により判定した。
（評価基準）
Ａ：すべての人が肌なじみの良さを感じた。
Ｂ：１名以上２名以下の人が肌なじみの悪さを感じた。
Ｃ：３名以上４名以下の人が肌なじみの悪さを感じた。
Ｄ：５名以上の人が肌なじみの悪さを感じた。
(2) Skin familiarity A sensory evaluation was performed on the skin familiarity when the prepared cosmetics shown in Table 2 were applied to 20 panelists. The evaluation was judged according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: Everyone felt that they were familiar with their skin.
B: One or more and two or less people felt unfamiliar with the skin.
C: 3 to 4 people felt unfamiliar with their skin.
D: More than 5 people felt unfamiliar with their skin.
（３）安定性
表２に示す調製化粧料をガラス瓶に入れ蓋をした状態で、５℃恒温槽に静置し、２４時間後における外観を目視により確認した。評価は次の基準により判定した。
（評価基準）
Ａ：外観状態に変化が無かった。
Ｂ：５℃で微量の沈殿生成がみられるが、室温に戻すと沈殿は消失し、均一で正常な外観に戻る。
Ｃ：５℃で相当量の沈殿生成がみられるが、室温に戻すと沈殿は消失し、均一で正常な外観に戻る。
Ｄ：５℃で沈殿の生成又は二層分離状態になる。
(3) Stability The prepared cosmetics shown in Table 2 were placed in a glass bottle, covered, and allowed to stand in a constant temperature bath at 5 ° C., and the appearance after 24 hours was visually confirmed. The evaluation was judged according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: There was no change in the appearance.
B: A small amount of precipitate is formed at 5 ° C., but when the temperature is returned to room temperature, the precipitate disappears and returns to a uniform and normal appearance.
C: A considerable amount of precipitation is observed at 5 ° C., but when the temperature is returned to room temperature, the precipitation disappears and the appearance returns to a uniform and normal appearance.
D: At 5 ° C., a precipitate is formed or a two-layer separated state is formed.
３．結果
表２の結果より、発明品１〜５はいずれも水の浸透促進効果、肌なじみ、安定性の各評価において良好な結果を得ることができた。さらに発明品１〜５は、本願発明に係る水以外の水溶性有効成分を配合しても、同様に皮膚へ浸透する効果が促進され、優れた結果が得られた。また肌なじみと安定性ともに優れた結果が得られた。一方、グリセリン重合度が６であるヘキサグリンにオキシプロピレン基を９モル付加させた化合物Ａ６を配合した比較品１は、浸透促進効果の劣る化粧料となった。また、グリセリン重合度が２であるジグリセリンにオキシプロピレン基を３０モル付加させた化合物Ａ７を配合した比較品２は、浸透促進効果に劣りがあり、さらに沈殿の生成が確認され、安定性に問題のある化粧料となった。グリセリン重合度が１で、オキシプロピレン基を１モル付加させた化合物Ａ８を配合した比較品３は、浸透促進効果及び肌なじみともに劣る化粧料となった。また、本発明のポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルではなく、グリセリンのみを配合した比較品４やジグリセリンのみを配合した比較品５は、安定性は良いが、浸透促進効果及び肌なじみに劣る結果となった。
3. 3. Results From the results in Table 2, all of Inventions 1 to 5 were able to obtain good results in each evaluation of water penetration promoting effect, skin compatibility, and stability. Further, in the inventions 1 to 5, even if a water-soluble active ingredient other than water according to the present invention was blended, the effect of penetrating into the skin was similarly promoted, and excellent results were obtained. In addition, excellent results were obtained in terms of skin compatibility and stability. On the other hand, Comparative Product 1 in which compound A6 in which 9 mol of an oxypropylene group was added to hexagrin having a glycerin degree of polymerization of 6 was blended was a cosmetic having an inferior penetration promoting effect. Further, Comparative Product 2 in which compound A7 in which 30 mol of an oxypropylene group was added to diglycerin having a glycerin degree of polymerization of 2 was inferior in the permeation promoting effect, and further, precipitation formation was confirmed, resulting in stability. It became a problematic cosmetic. Comparative product 3 containing compound A8 having a glycerin degree of polymerization of 1 and having 1 mol of an oxypropylene group added was a cosmetic product having an inferior penetration promoting effect and skin compatibility. Further, the comparative product 4 containing only glycerin and the comparative product 5 containing only diglycerin, instead of the polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether of the present invention, have good stability but inferior in penetration promoting effect and skin compatibility. It was.
以下に、本発明の浸透促進剤を配合した化粧料の応用例を示す。配合量は質量％である。 An application example of the cosmetic containing the penetration enhancer of the present invention is shown below. The blending amount is mass%.
実施例３：化粧水
Ａ）ＰＰＧ−６デシルテトラデセス−３０ ０．５０(質量％)
ＰＥＧ−３２ ４．００
１，３−ブチレングリコール ３．００
Ｂ）香料 適量
Ｃ）ＰＯＰ（９）モノグリセリルエーテル ７．００
アラニン ０．１０
セリン ０．１０
防腐剤 適量
ｐＨ調整剤 適量
キレート剤 適量
精製水 残余
全量 １００．００
（調製方法）Ａ相を８０℃で加熱溶解後、室温まで冷却し、Ｂ相を添加し均一にする。Ｃ相を常温で均一にする。Ａ相とＢ相を均一混合したものをＣ相に加え、均一にし、調製終了とする。
（結果）得られた化粧水は優れた水及び有効成分の浸透効果が確認でき、かつ肌なじみの良い、安定性に優れた化粧料であった。
Example 3: Toner
A) PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30 0.50 (% by mass)
PEG-32 4.00
1,3-butylene glycol 3.00
B) Appropriate amount of fragrance C) POP (9) Monoglyceryl ether 7.00
Alanine 0.10
Serine 0.10
Preservatives Appropriate amount pH regulator Appropriate amount Chelating agent Appropriate amount Purified water Residual total amount 100.00
(Preparation method) Phase A is heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., cooled to room temperature, and phase B is added to make it uniform. Make phase C uniform at room temperature. A homogeneous mixture of A phase and B phase is added to C phase to homogenize, and the preparation is completed.
(Results) The obtained lotion was a cosmetic that had excellent water and the permeation effect of the active ingredient, and was well-adapted to the skin and had excellent stability.
実施例４：美容液
Ａ）ＰＯＰ（１４）ジグリセリルエーテル ５．００（質量％）
１，３−ブチレングリコール ５．００
グリセリン ５．００
(アクリレーツ/アクリル酸アルキル(Ｃ１０−３０))
クロスポリマー ０．１５
キサンタンガム ０．１０
防腐剤 適量
精製水 残余
Ｂ）アルギニン ０．１５
グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム ０．１０
精製水 １０．００
Ｃ）ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＶＣ−ＰＭＧ（リン酸アスコルビルＭｇ） ３．００
クエン酸Ｎａ ０．５０
ＥＤＴＡ−４Ｎａ ０．１０
精製水 ２０．００
全量 １００．００
（調製方法）Ａ相、Ｂ相、Ｃ相をそれぞれ室温で均一にする。Ａ相にＢ相、Ｃ相を順次加え、均一混合し、調製終了とする。
（結果）得られた美容液は優れた水及び有効成分の浸透効果が確認でき、かつ肌なじみの良い、安定性に優れた化粧料であった。
Example 4: Essence
A) POP (14) Diglyceryl ether 5.00 (mass%)
1,3-butylene glycol 5.00
Glycerin 5.00
(Acrylate / Alkyl Acrylate (C10-30))
Cross polymer 0.15
Xanthan gum 0.10
Preservatives Appropriate amount Purified water Residual B) Arginine 0.15
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.10
Purified water 10.00
C) NIKKOL VC-PMG (ascorbyl phosphate Mg) 3.00
Na citrate 0.50
EDTA-4Na 0.10
Purified water 20.00
Total amount 100.00
(Preparation method) Make the A phase, B phase, and C phase uniform at room temperature. Phase B and phase C are sequentially added to phase A and uniformly mixed to complete the preparation.
(Results) The obtained beauty essence was a cosmetic having excellent water and active ingredient permeation effects, and was well-adapted to the skin and had excellent stability.
実施例５：クリーム
Ａ）ステアリン酸グリセリル １．００（質量％）
セタノール １．００
メドウホーム油 ４．００
シクロペンタシロキサン ８．００
ジメチコン ２．００
ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ＶＣ−ＩＰ
（テトラヘキシルデカン酸アスコルビル） １．００
トコフェロール ０．１０
Ｂ）ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ニコムルス ＬＨ※ ４．５０
１，３−ブチレングリコール ５．００
ＰＯＰ（９）ジグリセリルエーテル １８．００
防腐剤 適量
ｐＨ調整剤 適量
キレート剤 適量
精製水 残余
Ｃ）ヒアルロン酸Ｎａ ０．０１
加水分解コンキオリン ０．１０
カンゾウ葉エキス ０．１０
精製水 ５．００
全量 １００．００
（調製方法）Ａ相、Ｂ相を８０℃で加温均一後、Ｂ相にＡ相を添加しながらホモミキサーで乳化する。撹拌冷却後、４０℃でＣ相を添加し、均一撹拌した後、３５℃まで冷却し、調製終了とする。
（結果）得られたクリームは優れた水及び有効成分の浸透効果が確認でき、かつ肌なじみの良い、安定性に優れた化粧料であった。
※製品名「ＮＩＫＫＯＬ ニコムルス ＬＨ」：グリセリン、水添レシチン、ヒドロキシプロピルメチルセルロースステアロキシエーテル、スクワラン、ステアロイルメチルタウリンＮａ（日光ケミカルズ社製）
Example 5: Cream
A) Glyceryl stearate 1.00 (mass%)
Cetanol 1.00
Meadow Home Oil 4.00
Cyclopentasiloxane 8.00
Dimethicone 2.00
NIKKOL VC-IP
(Ascorbyl tetrahexyl decanoate) 1.00
Tocopherol 0.10
B) NIKKOL Nikomurusu LH * 4.50
1,3-butylene glycol 5.00
POP (9) Diglyceryl ether 18.00
Preservative Appropriate amount pH adjuster Appropriate amount Chelating agent Appropriate amount Purified water Residual C) Hyaluronic acid Na 0.01
Hydrolyzed conchiolin 0.10
Licorice leaf extract 0.10
Purified water 5.00
Total amount 100.00
(Preparation method) Phases A and B are uniformly heated at 80 ° C., and then emulsified with a homomixer while adding phase A to phase B. After stirring and cooling, the C phase is added at 40 ° C., the mixture is uniformly stirred, and then cooled to 35 ° C. to complete the preparation.
(Results) The obtained cream was a cosmetic having excellent water and active ingredient permeation effects, and was well-adapted to the skin and had excellent stability.
* Product name "NIKKOL Nicomulus LH": Glycerin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearoxy ether, squalane, stearoylmethyl taurine Na (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.)
実施例６：ハンドクリーム
Ａ）セテス−４０ ３．００（質量％）
セタノール ３．００
ステアリルアルコール ３．００
ワセリン １０．００
ミネラルオイル １０．００
Ｂ）尿素 ０．１０
グリセリン １０．００
ＰＯＰ（１８）ジグリセリルエーテル ０．５０
防腐剤 適量
ｐＨ調整剤 適量
キレート剤 適量
精製水 残余
全量 １００．００
（調製方法）Ａ相、Ｂ相を８０℃で加温均一後、Ａ相にＢ相を添加しながらホモミキサーで乳化する。撹拌冷却後、３５℃まで冷却し、調製終了とする。
（結果）得られたハンドクリームは優れた水及び有効成分の浸透効果が確認でき、かつ肌なじみの良い、安定性に優れた化粧料であった。
Example 6: Hand cream A) Setes-40 3.00 (mass%)
Cetanol 3.00
Stearyl alcohol 3.00
Vaseline 10.00
Mineral oil 10.00
B) Urea 0.10
Glycerin 10.00
POP (18) diglyceryl ether 0.50
Preservatives Appropriate amount pH regulator Appropriate amount Chelating agent Appropriate amount Purified water Residual total amount 100.00
(Preparation method) After heating and homogenizing the A phase and the B phase at 80 ° C., emulsify with a homomixer while adding the B phase to the A phase. After stirring and cooling, the mixture is cooled to 35 ° C. to complete the preparation.
(Results) The obtained hand cream was a cosmetic having excellent water and active ingredient permeation effects, and was well-adapted to the skin and had excellent stability.
実施例７：頭皮保湿ローション
Ａ）ＰＰＧ−６デシルテトラデセス−３０ ０．５０(質量％)
ＰＯＰ（３）トリグリセリルエーテル ５．００
ＰＯＰ（１０）モノグリセリルエーテル ５．００
Ｂ）香料 適量
Ｃ）１，３−ブチレングリコール ２．００
ヒアルロン酸Ｎａ ０．０１
ユーカリエキス ０．１０
ビワ葉エキス ０．１０
防腐剤 適量
ｐＨ調整剤 適量
キレート剤 適量
精製水 残余
全量 １００．００
（調製方法）Ａ相を８０℃で加熱溶解後、室温まで冷却し、Ｂ相を添加し均一にする。Ｃ相を常温で均一する。Ａ相とＢ相を均一混合したものをＣ相に加え、均一にし、調製終了とする。
（結果）得られた頭皮保湿ローションは優れた水及び有効成分の浸透効果が確認でき、かつ肌なじみの良い、安定性に優れた化粧料であった。
Example 7: Scalp moisturizing lotion A) PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30 0.50 (% by mass)
POP (3) Triglyceryl ether 5.00
POP (10) Monoglyceryl Ether 5.00
B) Appropriate amount of fragrance C) 1,3-butylene glycol 2.00
Hyaluronate Na 0.01
Eucalyptus extract 0.10
Loquat leaf extract 0.10
Preservatives Appropriate amount pH regulator Appropriate amount Chelating agent Appropriate amount Purified water Residual total amount 100.00
(Preparation method) Phase A is heated and dissolved at 80 ° C., cooled to room temperature, and phase B is added to make it uniform. Make the C phase uniform at room temperature. A homogeneous mixture of A phase and B phase is added to C phase to homogenize, and the preparation is completed.
(Results) The obtained scalp moisturizing lotion was a cosmetic with excellent water and active ingredient permeation effect, and was well-adapted to the skin and had excellent stability.
本発明は、保湿力を有しつつ、塗布時の肌なじみを向上させ、さらに水及び／又は水溶性有効成分を皮膚に浸透させる浸透促進剤、及びこれを配合した化粧料を提供できる。 INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can provide a permeation promoter that improves skin compatibility at the time of application while having moisturizing power, and further permeates water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, and a cosmetic containing the same.
Claims (3)
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| JP2019219667A JP7515818B2 (en) | 2019-12-04 | Penetration enhancers |
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| JP2019219667A JP7515818B2 (en) | 2019-12-04 | Penetration enhancers |
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Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006131520A (en) * | 2004-11-04 | 2006-05-25 | Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co Ltd | Moisturizing cosmetic |
| JP2017066116A (en) * | 2015-10-02 | 2017-04-06 | 御木本製薬株式会社 | Aqueous skin external preparation |
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2006131520A (en) * | 2004-11-04 | 2006-05-25 | Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co Ltd | Moisturizing cosmetic |
| JP2017066116A (en) * | 2015-10-02 | 2017-04-06 | 御木本製薬株式会社 | Aqueous skin external preparation |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| 田上八朗: "皮膚表面の保湿効果の測定の評価について", FRAGRANCE JOURNAL, JPN6023035449, 1982, pages 14 - 18, ISSN: 0005138327 * |
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