JP2019218307A - 組成物 - Google Patents
組成物 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2019218307A JP2019218307A JP2018117338A JP2018117338A JP2019218307A JP 2019218307 A JP2019218307 A JP 2019218307A JP 2018117338 A JP2018117338 A JP 2018117338A JP 2018117338 A JP2018117338 A JP 2018117338A JP 2019218307 A JP2019218307 A JP 2019218307A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- oil
- poe
- porous powder
- acid
- composition
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 87
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- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
したがって、スキンケア化粧料には着色剤あるいは隠ぺい力の高い粉体を用いることは少なく、一方、ファンデーション等のメークアップ化粧料には肌上の瑕疵を隠ぺいするため、酸化チタンあるいは酸化亜鉛などの屈折率(隠ぺい力)が高い無機粉体を配合するのが一般的である。
しかしながら、最近は若年層を中心に素肌志向が高まり、素肌の有する特有な透明感をも隠蔽してしまうメークアップ化粧料の使用を抑制する傾向もある。
すなわち、本発明にかかる組成物は、
水性媒体と、
前記水性媒体中に分散された親油性多孔質粉体と、
粘度100mPa・s以下の油分と、
前記親油性多孔質粉体を水性媒体中に分散させる分散剤と、
抱水性粒子と
を含むことを特徴とする。
また、本発明において、前記粘度100mPa・s以下の油分は、前記親油性多孔質粉体の孔の少なくとも一部に保持されることが好ましい。
また、本発明において、前記親油性多孔質粉体を水性媒体中に分散させる分散剤は、直鎖状、分岐鎖状又は脂環式の炭化水素基を有する、アクリル系ポリマーであることが好ましい。
また、本発明において、親油性多孔質粉体は架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレートを主素材とすることが好適である。
また、本発明において、親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油可能量は該粉体に対し100質量%以上であることが好適である。
なお、吸油量の測定方法は、試料をガラス板の上に置き、トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリルを少しずつ滴下してパレットナイフで練り込み、ペーストが滑らかな硬さになったところを終点とし、滴下重量/試料重量を吸油量(%)とした。
また、本発明において、下記の式を満たすことが好適である。
[(毛穴補正組成物中の油分の含有量(質量%)/(毛穴補正組成物中の親油性多孔質粉体の含有量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
また、本発明において微粒子ワックスを配合することが好適である。
また、本発明において、組成物の粘度は、25℃で 3000〜 200000mPa・s以下であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、親油性多孔質粉体と抱水性粒子が、質量比で、親油性多孔質紛体/抱水性粒子=10〜40であることが好適である。
また、本発明において、抱水性粒子が、結晶セルロース、(アクリロイルジメチルタウリンアンモニウム/VP)コポリマー、(ジメチルアクリルアミド/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)クロスポリマーから選ばれる1種または2種以上であることが好適である。
本発明において好適に用いられる親油性多孔質粉体としては、架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート、ナイロン多孔質粉末などが好適に用いられる。材質そのものが親油性であっても、あるいは材質が親水性であるが親油性物質でコーティングしたものでも良いが、コーティングの場合には孔内まで親油化されていることが好ましい。
親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油可能量は、粉体に対して100質量%以上であることが好ましい。最大吸油可能量は多孔質容積とも密接に関係し、また多孔質形態は光の拡散性に影響を与える。このため、最大吸油可能量が100質量%未満であると光拡散効果が不十分となり、毛穴補正効果が十分とならない。
本発明において好適に用いられる油分としては、極性油、シリコーン油など、各種の油分を用いることができるが、粘度は100mPa・s以下であることが必要である。粘度が100mPa・sを超えると前記親油性多孔質粉体に保持されにくくなり、親油性多孔質粉体による白化を防止することが困難となる。
また、極性油としてはトリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリルなどのエステル油が例示され、特に親油性多孔質粉体として架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレートを用いた場合には、トリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリルが好ましい。
極性油を用いた場合には、組成物粘度が比較的低く抑えられ、スキンケア組成物、特に美容液、乳液に近似した使用感(みずみずしさ、べたつきがない等)を得ることができる。
また、非極性油としては、メチルポリシロキサン、メチルフェニルポリシロキサン、流動パラフィンなどが例示され、非極性油を用いた場合には比較的高粘度となるため、ジェル状スキンケア組成物に近似した使用感を得ることができる。
[(毛穴補正組成物中の油分の含有量(質量%))/(毛穴補正組成物中の親油性多孔質粉体の含有量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油量(質量%)≦1
油分量が上記式を満たさない場合には、毛穴補正効果が得られない。なお、油分量が0.1倍よりも少ないと、毛穴補正効果が劣ってしまう場合がある。
油分としては、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、オクタン酸セチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ステアリン酸ブチル、ラウリン酸ヘキシル、ミリスチン酸ミリスチル、オレイン酸デシル、ジメチルオクタン酸ヘキシルデシル、乳酸セチル、乳酸ミリスチル、酢酸ラノリン、ステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、ジ−2−エチルヘキサン酸エチレングリコール、ジペンタエリスリトール脂肪酸エステル、モノイソステアリン酸N−アルキルグリコール、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセリン、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸トリメチロールプロパン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、テトラ−2−エチルヘキサン酸ペンタエリスリトール、トリ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリン、トリオクタン酸グリセリン、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリン、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、セチル2−エチルヘキサノエート、2−エチルヘキシルパルミテート、トリミリスチン酸グリセリン、トリ−2−ヘプチルウンデカン酸グリセライド、オレイン酸オレイル、アセトグリセライド、パルミチン酸2−ヘプチルウンデシル、アジピン酸ジイソブチル、アジピン酸ジ−2−ヘプチルウンデシル、エチルラウレート、セバシン酸ジ−2−エチルヘキシル、ミリスチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、パルミチン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、アジピン酸2−ヘキシルデシル、セバシン酸ジイソプロピル、コハク酸2−エチルヘキシル、クエン酸トリエチル等を挙げることができる。
本発明において好適に用いられる油分は、油分全体として粘度が100mPa・s未満であることが好ましい。
また、粘度100mPa・s以下の油分は、前記親油性多孔質粉体の孔の少なくとも一部に保持されることが好ましい。
本発明において、抱水性粒子とは、水性溶媒中で結晶あるいはミクロゲルの状態で分散し、それらの摩擦によって増粘する高分子である。抱水性粒子とは、水を溶媒とした場合に、前記粒子を2%含む水溶液の25℃での粘度が15000mPa・s以上となる粒子である。
親油性多孔質粉体と抱水性粒子が、質量比で、親油性多孔質紛体/抱水性粒子=10〜40であることが好ましい。親油性多孔質紛体/抱水性粒子が10未満であると、前後に使用するファンデーションが不均一になる場合があるため好ましくない。一方で、親油性多孔質紛体/抱水性粒子が40%を超えると、毛穴補正組成物を肌に塗布する前後に使用するファンデーションが不均一になる場合があるため好ましくない。
前記親油性多孔質粉体を水性媒体中に分散させる分散剤は、カルボン酸系ポリマーが好ましく、直鎖状、分岐鎖状又は脂環式の炭化水素基を有するアクリル系ポリマーがより好ましい。さらに好ましくは、アクリル酸・メタクリル酸アルキル共重合体である。
本発明の組成物の粘度は、3000〜200000mPa・sが好ましく、より好ましくは、10000〜100000mPa・sである。毛穴補正組成物の粘度が3000〜200000mPa・sであることにより、スキンケア感覚を得ることができる。なお、毛穴補正組成物の粘度が、3000mPa・s未満であると、毛穴補正組成物を肌に塗布する前後に使用するファンデーションが不均一になる場合があるため好ましくない。また、200000mPa・sより大きいと、毛穴補正効果が損なわれる場合があるため好ましくない。
本発明の組成物には、上記必須成分の外、通常化粧品や医薬部外品の組成物に用いられる成分を配合することができ、常法に応じて製造される。以下に具体的な配合可能成分を列挙するが、前記必須成分に加え、下記成分の一種又は二種以上とを配合して本発明の組成物を調製できる。
ただし、高屈折率(屈折率2以上など)の無機粉体を配合する場合には、組成物中5質量%以下、好ましくは1質量%以下とすることが好ましい。
高級脂肪酸としては、例えば、ラウリン酸、ミリスチン酸、パルミチン酸、ステアリン酸、ベヘン酸、オレイン酸、ウンデシレン酸、トール酸、イソステアリン酸、リノール酸、リノレイン酸、エイコサペンタエン酸(EPA)、ドコサヘキサエン酸(DHA)等が挙げられる。
アニオン界面活性剤としては、例えば、脂肪酸セッケン(例えば、ラウリン酸ナトリウム、パルミチン酸ナトリウム等);高級アルキル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム、ラウリル硫酸カリウム等);アルキルエーテル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、POE−ラウリル硫酸トリエタノールアミン、POE−ラウリル硫酸ナトリウム等);N−アシルサルコシン酸(例えば、ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム等);高級脂肪酸アミドスルホン酸塩(例えば、N−ミリストイル−N−メチルタウリンナトリウム、ヤシ油脂肪酸メチルタウリッドナトリウム、ラウリルメチルタウリッドナトリウム等);リン酸エステル塩(POE−オレイルエーテルリン酸ナトリウム、POE−ステアリルエーテルリン酸等);スルホコハク酸塩(例えば、ジ−2−エチルヘキシルスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、モノラウロイルモノエタノールアミドポリオキシエチレンスルホコハク酸ナトリウム、ラウリルポリプロピレングリコールスルホコハク酸ナトリウム等);アルキルベンゼンスルホン酸塩(例えば、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸ナトリウム、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸トリエタノールアミン、リニアドデシルベンゼンスルホン酸等);高級脂肪酸エステル硫酸エステル塩(例えば、硬化ヤシ油脂肪酸グリセリン硫酸ナトリウム等);N−アシルグルタミン酸塩(例えば、N−ラウロイルグルタミン酸モノナトリウム、N−ステアロイルグルタミン酸ジナトリウム、N−ミリストイル−L−グルタミン酸モノナトリウム等);硫酸化油(例えば、ロート油等);POE−アルキルエーテルカルボン酸;POE−アルキルアリルエーテルカルボン酸塩;α−オレフィンスルホン酸塩;高級脂肪酸エステルスルホン酸塩;二級アルコール硫酸エステル塩;高級脂肪酸アルキロールアミド硫酸エステル塩;ラウロイルモノエタノールアミドコハク酸ナトリウム;N−パルミトイルアスパラギン酸ジトリエタノールアミン;カゼインナトリウム等が挙げられる。
なお、本発明において低分子界面活性剤を用いた場合、該低分子界面活性剤が多孔質粉体に吸着し、粉体内外の疎水性に影響を与える可能性があるため、組成物の1質量%以下とすることが好ましい。
アミノ酸としては、例えば、中性アミノ酸(例えば、スレオニン、システイン等);塩基性アミノ酸(例えば、ヒドロキシリジン等)等が挙げられる。また、アミノ酸誘導体として、例えば、アシルサルコシンナトリウム(ラウロイルサルコシンナトリウム)、アシルグルタミン酸塩、アシルβ−アラニンナトリウム、グルタチオン、ピロリドンカルボン酸等が挙げられる。
まず、試験方法について説明する。
作製したサンプルの分散状態を顕微鏡により確認をおこなった。100倍で見たときの視野中に凝集物が1つもない状態をA、10個以下をB、50個以下をC、それ以上をDとし、AとBを分散状態が良いと判断した。
専門パネリスト(10名)がサンプルを使用し、毛穴補正効果があるものをA、やや効果があるものをB、あまり効果がないものをC、効果がないものをDとして判定した。AとBを毛穴補正効果が良いと判断した。
専門パネリスト(10名)がサンプルを使用し、白さがまったく目立たないものをA、やや白さがあるもののほとんど目立たないものをB、白さが目立ってしまうものをC、白くなりすぎて明らかに不自然なものをDとして判定した。
各サンプルをBL型粘度計(芝浦システム株式会社製)、ローターNo.3、12rpm、60秒、30℃あるいは、BH型粘度計(芝浦システム株式会社製)、ローターNo.6あるいはNo.7、10rpm、60秒、30℃で測定したものである。
Hunter Lab色空間における、色差(ΔE)を算出し、これのばらつきの大きさを色ムラとして評価した。
ΔE=
ΔE4点は、以下の手順に従い測定した。
直径5.5cmの人工皮革(黒)に各種下地サンプルを2mg/cm2を塗布する。そして、その上に、ファンデーションを塗布する。そして、人工皮革の中心を基準値として、周り4点のΔEを測定して、その平均値を求めた。平均値が1.0を下回った場合、均一に塗布されているものと定義した。
ファンデーションの均一さは、専門のパネラーが視覚により下記の基準で評価した。
○:10名中 9名以上が、均一であると回答した。
○△:10名中 6名以上 9名未満が、均一であると回答した。
△:10名中 4名以上 6名未満が、均一であると回答した。
△×:10名中 2名以上 4名未満が、均一であると回答した。
×:10名中 2名未満が、均一であると回答した。
このような樹脂粉体は、比較的透明度が高くしかも屈折率も化粧品基剤と近似するため、組成物の透明度を高くすることができるが、耐水性を高めるため、樹脂粉体を選択する必要がある。
加えて、樹脂粉体、特に球状樹脂粉体は使用感もよいが、光の拡散効果はやや低い傾向にあり、このため、多孔質粉体を用い拡散効果を高めることが考えられる。
なお、各表において、毛穴補正組成物に用いる原料の含有量の単位は、質量%である。
これに対し、多孔質粉体を配合した場合(試験例1−2,1−3)には高い毛穴補正効果が認められたが、水性分散媒に多孔質粉体を配合しただけ(試験例1−2)では、該多孔質粉体が浮上してしまい、分散性が悪く、しかも肌に塗布後、光の散乱効果が強すぎ、白く見えてしまう。
一方、親油性多孔質粉体(本試験例で用いた架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート多孔質紛体のトリ2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリルの吸油量は210%)に油分を吸収させた場合(試験例1−3)には光の散乱が適度に抑制され、しかも樹脂粉体の見かけ比重も調製されるため、分散性も良好であった。
(*2)P.V.A EG−05( 日本合成化学工業株式会社製)
(*3)RA−G−308( 日本精化株式会社製)
(*4)PRESS−AID SP( PRESPERSE INC. 社製)
(*5)テクポリマー MBP−8HP(積水化成品工業株式会社製)
基本処方の組成物の毛穴補正効果を維持しつつ、架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレート(表1中の※)と各種増粘剤により増粘することができるか検討した。結果を表3に示す。
(*7)レオザン(RHODIA Inc社製)
(*8)カーボポール 980(Lubrizol Advanced Materials社製)
(*9)寒天CS−110( 伊那食品工業株式会社製)
(*10)MAKIMOUSSE 25(大東化成工業株式会社製)
(*11)アデカノール GT‐700(株式会社ADEKA製)
Claims (11)
- 水性媒体と、
前記水性媒体中に分散された親油性多孔質粉体と、
粘度100mPa・s以下の油分と、
前記親油性多孔質粉体を水性媒体中に分散させる分散剤と、
抱水性粒子と
を含むことを特徴とする組成物。 - 請求項1記載の組成物において、親油性多孔質粉体は架橋型ポリメチルメタクリレートを主素材とする組成物。
- 請求項1または2記載の組成物において、前記粘度100mPa・s以下の油分が、前記親油性多孔質粉体の孔の少なくとも一部に保持されることを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜3のいずれかに記載の組成物において、水性媒体中に分散させる分散剤は、直鎖状、分岐鎖状又は脂環式の炭化水素基を有する、アクリル系ポリマーであることを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜4記載の組成物において、親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油可能量が該粉体に対し100質量%以上であることを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜5のいずれかに記載の組成物において、下記の式を満たすことを特徴とする組成物。
[(組成物中の油分の含有量(質量%))/(組成物中の親油性多孔質粉体の含有量(質量%))×100]/親油性多孔質粉体の最大吸油量(質量%)≦1 - 請求項1〜6のいずれかに記載の組成物において、微粒子ワックスを配合することを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜7記載の組成物において、組成物の粘度は、25℃で 3000〜 200000mPa・sであることを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜8に記載の組成物において、親油性多孔質粉体と抱水性粒子が、質量比で、親油性多孔質紛体/抱水性粒子=10〜40であることを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜9に記載の組成物において、抱水性粒子が、結晶セルロース、(アクリロイルジメチルタウリンアンモニウム/VP)コポリマー、(ジメチルアクリルアミド/アクリロイルジメチルタウリンNa)クロスポリマーから選ばれる1種または2種以上であることを特徴とする組成物。
- 請求項1〜10に記載の組成物からなることを特徴とする化粧下地。
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