JP2015124445A - Method for knitting fabric and method for manufacturing knitted fabric - Google Patents

Method for knitting fabric and method for manufacturing knitted fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2015124445A
JP2015124445A JP2013267890A JP2013267890A JP2015124445A JP 2015124445 A JP2015124445 A JP 2015124445A JP 2013267890 A JP2013267890 A JP 2013267890A JP 2013267890 A JP2013267890 A JP 2013267890A JP 2015124445 A JP2015124445 A JP 2015124445A
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Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
knitting
edge
knitted
yarn
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ロジャー・クォク・フォン・チャン
Kuok Fon Chan Roger
孝典 亀井
Takanori Kamei
孝典 亀井
匡規 瀧本
Masanori Takimoto
匡規 瀧本
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Priority to JP2013267890A priority Critical patent/JP2015124445A/en
Priority to DE102014018872.8A priority patent/DE102014018872A1/en
Priority to KR1020140181279A priority patent/KR101648370B1/en
Priority to CN201410821088.3A priority patent/CN104746227A/en
Publication of JP2015124445A publication Critical patent/JP2015124445A/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Braiding, Manufacturing Of Bobbin-Net Or Lace, And Manufacturing Of Nets By Knotting (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for knitting a fabric, capable of reducing the number of yarn feeders for knitting a fabric having a separation part.SOLUTION: A method for knitting a fabric includes a process of knitting, by using a flat knitting machine including a pair of front and back needle beds FB and BB facing each other, knitted fabrics 100 and 101 each including: a first knitted fabric part 1 and a second knitted fabric part 2 which are arranged in parallel in a left-and-right direction or a front-and-back direction with a separation part 3 interposed therebetween; a bag-like first edge part 11 provided at an end part on the separation part 3 side of the first knitted fabric part 1; and a bag-like second edge part 21 provided at an end part on the separation part 3 side of the second knitted fabric part 2. In the process, by using an identical yarn feeder 9 provided in the flat knitting machine, while the first edge part 11 and the second edge part 21 are knitted, a cross-over yarn part 31 extending from the bag inside of the first edge part 11 toward the bag inside of the second edge part 21 and crossing the separation part 3 is knitted to connect the first edge part 11 and the second edge part 21.

Description

本発明は、離隔部を有する編地を編成する編地の編成方法、およびその編地の編成方法によって得られた編地を加工する編地の製造方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a knitting method of a knitted fabric for knitting a knitted fabric having a separation portion, and a knitted fabric manufacturing method for processing a knitted fabric obtained by the knitting method of the knitted fabric.

並列される第一編地部および第二編地部と、両編地部の間に形成される離隔部と、を備える編地を、横編機を用いて編成することが行われている。例えば、離隔部を有する編地として、左右に並列される右前身頃（第一編地部）と左前身頃（第二編地部）との間が離隔したカーディガンを挙げることができる。また、右前身頃の離隔部側端部と左前身頃の離隔部側端部にはそれぞれ、袋状の右前立て（第一縁部）と袋状の左前立て（第二縁部）が形成されることがある。   Knitting a knitted fabric comprising a first knitted fabric portion and a second knitted fabric portion that are juxtaposed, and a separation portion formed between both knitted fabric portions using a flat knitting machine is performed. . For example, as a knitted fabric having a separation portion, a cardigan in which a right front body (first knitted fabric portion) and a left front body (second knitted fabric portion) arranged side by side are separated from each other can be cited. Also, a bag-like right placket (first edge) and a bag-like left placket (second edge) are respectively formed at the end of the right front body and the end of the left front body. Sometimes.

ここで、横編機を用いて編成された編地は通常、洗濯された後、スチームやアイロンがけなどのセット作業に供される。しかし、編地の離隔部近傍がカールしたり、洗濯によって縮んだりするため、セット作業の作業性が芳しくない。このような問題点に対して、例えば特許文献１では、カーディガンの右前身頃と後身頃と左前身頃とをＣ字状に編成すると共に、これら身頃を編成するベース編糸とは異なる挿入糸で右前身頃と左前身頃とを結束する編地の編成方法が提案されている。つまり、特許文献１の編地の編成方法では、ベース編糸を給糸する給糸口と挿入糸を給糸する給糸口の二つの給糸口が必要となる。   Here, a knitted fabric knitted using a flat knitting machine is usually subjected to a set operation such as steam or ironing after being washed. However, since the vicinity of the separation part of the knitted fabric curls or shrinks due to washing, the workability of the setting work is not good. For example, in Patent Document 1, a right front body, a back body, and a left front body of a cardigan are knitted in a C shape, and an insertion thread different from a base knitting yarn for knitting these bodies is used for the right front. A knitting method of a knitted fabric that binds the body and the left front body has been proposed. In other words, the knitting method of the knitted fabric disclosed in Patent Document 1 requires two yarn feeders, a yarn feeder that feeds the base knitting yarn and a yarn feeder that feeds the insertion yarn.

一方、カーディガンを筒状編地ではなく単層編地として編成することもある。例えば、針床上でカーディガンの右前身頃と左前身頃とを左右に並列させた状態で編成し、両前身頃の肩ラインに続いてカーディガンの後身頃を編成する。単層編地のカーディガンを編成した後は、前身頃と後身頃の脇のラインを縫製によって接続することでカーディガンを完成させる。この場合、右前身頃と左前身頃を編成する際、別々の給糸口が必要となる。さらに、右前身頃と左前身頃とを、特許文献１の編地の編成方法と同様に挿入糸で結束するのであれば、合計三つの給糸口が必要となる。   On the other hand, the cardigan may be knitted as a single-layer knitted fabric instead of a tubular knitted fabric. For example, the right front body and the left front body of the cardigan are knitted side by side on the needle bed, and the back body of the cardigan is knitted following the shoulder lines of both front bodies. After knitting a single layer knitted cardigan, the cardigan is completed by connecting the side lines of the front and back bodies together by sewing. In this case, when the right front body and the left front body are knitted, separate yarn feeders are required. Furthermore, if the right front body and the left front body are bound with the insertion yarn in the same manner as the knitting method of the knitted fabric of Patent Document 1, a total of three yarn feeders are required.

特開２００８−２６１０７４号公報JP 2008-261074 A

近年、より生産性良く編地を編成することが望まれている。その要請に応えるべく、編地の編成に使用する給糸口の数を減らすことが検討されている。給糸口の数を減らすことができれば、その分だけ糸入れ・糸出しの手間を低減することができ、編地の生産性を向上させることができるからである。   In recent years, it has been desired to knit a knitted fabric with higher productivity. In order to meet the demand, it has been studied to reduce the number of yarn feeders used for knitting the knitted fabric. This is because if the number of yarn feeders can be reduced, it is possible to reduce the time and effort required for yarn insertion and yarn removal, and to improve the productivity of the knitted fabric.

本発明は、上記事情に鑑みてなされたものであり、その目的の一つは、離隔部を有する編地を編成する給糸口の数を減らすことができる編地の編成方法を提供することにある。また、本発明の別の目的は、本発明の編地の編成方法で得られた編地を用いて、離隔部が開いた編地を製造するための編地の製造方法を提供することにある。   The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and one of its purposes is to provide a knitting method of a knitted fabric that can reduce the number of yarn feeders for knitting a knitted fabric having a separation portion. is there. Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a knitted fabric for producing a knitted fabric having an open separation using the knitted fabric obtained by the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention. is there.

本発明の編地の編成方法は、離隔部を挟んで左右方向あるいは前後方向に並列される第一編地部および第二編地部と、第一編地部の離隔部側端部に設けられる袋状の第一縁部と、第二編地部の離隔部側端部に設けられる袋状の第二縁部と、を備える編地を、対向する前後一対の針床を備える横編機を用いて編成する編地の編成方法である。この本発明の編地の編成方法では、横編機に備わる同一の給糸口を用いて、第一縁部と第二縁部とを編成する間に、第一縁部の袋内部から第二縁部の袋内部に向かって延び、離隔部を横切る渡り糸部を編成し、第一縁部と第二縁部とを繋ぐ。   The knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention is provided at the first knitted fabric portion and the second knitted fabric portion that are arranged in parallel in the left-right direction or the front-rear direction across the separation portion, and at the separation portion side end of the first knitted fabric portion A knitted fabric comprising a bag-shaped first edge portion and a bag-shaped second edge portion provided at the end of the second knitted fabric portion on the side of the separation portion, and a flat knitting comprising a pair of front and rear needle beds facing each other A knitting method of a knitted fabric knitted using a machine. In the knitting method of the knitted fabric according to the present invention, the first edge and the second edge are knitted using the same yarn feeder provided in the flat knitting machine, while the first edge is inside the bag. A bridging yarn portion extending toward the inside of the bag at the edge portion and crossing the separation portion is knitted, and the first edge portion and the second edge portion are connected.

本発明の編地の編成方法において、編地が筒状編地である形態を挙げることができる。   In the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, a form in which the knitted fabric is a tubular knitted fabric can be mentioned.

本発明の編地の編成方法において、第一縁部および第二縁部を袋編成によって編成し、渡り糸部の両端部の固定はタックによって行う形態を挙げることができる。   In the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the first edge and the second edge can be knitted by bag knitting, and the fixing of both ends of the crossover yarn can be performed by tack.

また、本発明の編地の製造方法は、上記本発明の編地の編成方法によって編地を編成し、その編地に備わる渡り糸部のうち、離隔部の位置に配置される部分を切断し、その渡り糸部の切断端をそれぞれ、第一縁部の袋内部と第二縁部の袋内部に引き込ませる編地の製造方法である。   The knitted fabric manufacturing method of the present invention is a method of knitting a knitted fabric by the knitted fabric knitting method of the present invention, and cutting a portion disposed at the position of the separating portion of the transition yarn portion provided in the knitted fabric. Then, this is a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric in which the cut ends of the transition yarn portions are drawn into the bag at the first edge and the bag at the second edge, respectively.

本発明の編地の編成方法によれば、第一縁部、第二縁部、および渡り糸部を同一の給糸口を用いて編成することができる。つまり、離隔部を挟む二つの部分を挿入糸で結束する特許文献１の編地の編成方法に比べて、本発明の編地の編成方法では、使用する給糸口を減らすことができる。   According to the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the first edge portion, the second edge portion, and the transition yarn portion can be knitted using the same yarn feeder. That is, compared to the knitting method of the knitted fabric of Patent Document 1 in which two portions sandwiching the separation portion are bound with the insertion yarn, the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention can reduce the yarn feeders to be used.

また、本発明の編地の編成方法によれば、離隔部を挟む袋状の第一縁部と第二縁部とを渡り糸部で繋いだ編地を編成することができる。渡り糸部は、第一縁部と第二縁部との相対的な位置、即ち第一縁部が設けられる第一編地部と第二縁部が設けられる第二編地部との相対的な位置を保持する役割を果たす。そのため、編地を洗濯しても第一編地部と第二編地部との相対的な位置がずれ難く、編地のセット作業が行い易い。   Moreover, according to the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, a knitted fabric in which the bag-like first edge and the second edge sandwiching the separation portion are connected by the cross yarn portion can be knitted. The transition yarn portion is a relative position between the first edge portion and the second edge portion, that is, relative to the first knitted fabric portion where the first edge portion is provided and the second knitted fabric portion where the second edge portion is provided. It plays the role of holding a special position. Therefore, even if the knitted fabric is washed, the relative positions of the first knitted fabric portion and the second knitted fabric portion are not easily displaced, and the knitted fabric setting operation is easy to perform.

筒状編地を編成する本発明の編地の編成方法であれば、一定方向に編地を周回編成することができる。例えば、カーディガンの身頃を編成する場合、右前身頃（第一編地部）→第一縁部→渡り糸部→第二縁部→左前身頃（第二編地部）→後身頃→右前身頃（第一編地部）→…といった順番で周回編成を行うことができる。一定方向に編地を周回編成することで、編地の全体的な目面（ｌｏｏｐ ｑｕａｌｉｔｙ）を揃えることができる。これに対して、カーディガンの右前身頃と左前身頃を挿入糸で結束する特許文献１の編地の編成方法では、右前身頃と後身頃と左前身頃をＣ字状に編成することになる。その場合、編成コースごとに編成方向が入れ替わるため、編成に使用する編糸の種類によっては編地の見栄えが損なわれる恐れがある。   If the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention for knitting a tubular knitted fabric, the knitted fabric can be circulated in a certain direction. For example, when knitting a cardigan body, right front body (first knitted fabric part) → first edge → crossover yarn part → second edge → left front body (second knitted fabric part) → back body → right front body ( Circumferential knitting can be performed in the order of the first knitted fabric portion) →. By circularly knitting the knitted fabric in a certain direction, the overall texture of the knitted fabric can be made uniform. On the other hand, in the knitting method of the knitted fabric of Patent Document 1 in which the right front body and the left front body of the cardigan are bound with an insertion thread, the right front body, the back body, and the left front body are knitted in a C shape. In that case, since the knitting direction is switched for each knitting course, the appearance of the knitted fabric may be impaired depending on the type of knitting yarn used for knitting.

第一縁部および第二縁部を袋編成によって編成し、渡り糸部の両端部の固定をタックによって行う本発明の編地の編成方法によれば、効率的に編地を編成することができる。袋編成は、給糸口を往復させて編目を袋状に並べる編成方法であり、袋状編目列の最も簡単な編成方法である。また、タックは、最も簡単に渡り糸部の両端部を固定する方法である。なお、言うまでもないが、袋状の第一縁部と第二縁部を編成する方法は、前後の針床に袋状に編目が並んだ状態とすることができる方法であれば良く、袋編成に限定されるわけではない。例えば、割増やしや、ミラノリブなどを利用すれば、前後の針床に袋状に編目を並べることができる。   According to the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention in which the first edge portion and the second edge portion are knitted by bag knitting, and both ends of the crossover yarn portion are fixed by tack, the knitted fabric can be knitted efficiently. it can. Bag knitting is a knitting method in which the yarn feeders are reciprocated to arrange the stitches in a bag shape, and is the simplest knitting method of the bag-like stitch row. Tack is the simplest method for fixing both ends of the crossover yarn portion. Needless to say, the method for knitting the bag-like first edge and the second edge may be any method as long as the stitches can be arranged in a bag shape on the front and back needle beds. It is not limited to. For example, by using an extra or Milan rib, stitches can be arranged in a bag shape on the front and back needle beds.

一方、本発明の編地の製造方法によれば、渡り糸部を切断し、渡り糸部の切断端を第一縁部と第二縁部の袋内部に引き込ませるだけで、第一編地部と第二編地部とが離隔部で離隔した編地を製造することができる。渡り糸部の切断端は、第一縁部と第二縁部の袋内部に引き込まれて外部から見えない状態となり、当該切断端が編地の見栄えを損なうことはない。なお、渡り糸部の切断端を袋内部に引き込ませるには、鈎針などの道具を用いた特別な作業を行う必要はなく、単に編地を編幅方向に軽く引っ張るだけで良い。   On the other hand, according to the manufacturing method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, the first knitted fabric can be obtained simply by cutting the crossover yarn portion and drawing the cut ends of the crossover yarn portion into the bags of the first edge portion and the second edge portion. A knitted fabric in which the portion and the second knitted fabric portion are separated by the separation portion can be manufactured. The cut end of the transition yarn portion is drawn into the inside of the bag of the first edge portion and the second edge portion and is not visible from the outside, and the cut end does not impair the appearance of the knitted fabric. Note that in order to draw the cut end of the crossover yarn portion into the bag, it is not necessary to perform a special operation using a tool such as a hook needle, and the knitted fabric may be simply pulled lightly in the knitting width direction.

（Ａ）は実施形態１に示すカーディガンの概略図、（Ｂ）は前身頃の離隔部の一部に渡り糸部が形成されたカーディガンの概略図である。(A) is the schematic of the cardigan shown in Embodiment 1, (B) is the schematic of the cardigan by which the crossing yarn part was formed in a part of the separation part of the front body. 図１（Ａ）のカーディガンにおける身頃の胴部の編成手順を示す模式図である。It is a schematic diagram which shows the knitting procedure of the trunk | drum of the body in the cardigan of FIG. 図１（Ａ）のカーディガンにおける身頃の胴部の編成工程概略図である。It is the knitting process schematic of the body part of the body in the cardigan of FIG. 実施形態２に示すベストの概略図である。It is the schematic of the best shown in Embodiment 2. FIG. 図４のベストにおける身頃の胸部の編成手順を示す模式図である。It is a schematic diagram which shows the knitting procedure of the chest of the body in the vest of FIG. 実施形態３に示すカーディガンの概略図である。It is the schematic of the cardigan shown in Embodiment 3.

＜実施形態１＞
≪全体構成≫
実施形態１では、図１（Ａ）に示すカーディガン（編地）１００の製造例を説明する。このカーディガン１００は、右前身頃（第一編地部）１と、左前身頃（第二編地部）２と、後身頃４と、を備えており、左右方向に並列する右前身頃１と左前身頃２との間に離隔部３が形成されている。さらに右前身頃１の離隔部３側の端部には袋状の右側縁部（第一縁部）１１が、左前身頃２の離隔部３側の端部には袋状の左縁部（第二縁部）２１が形成されている。 <Embodiment 1>
≪Overall structure≫
In the first embodiment, a manufacturing example of the cardigan (knitted fabric) 100 shown in FIG. The cardigan 100 includes a right front body (first knitted fabric portion) 1, a left front body (second knitted fabric portion) 2, and a back body 4. The right front body 1 and the left front body are arranged in parallel in the left-right direction. A separation portion 3 is formed between the two. Further, a bag-like right edge (first edge) 11 is provided at the end of the right front body 1 on the separation part 3 side, and a bag-like left edge (first edge) is provided at the end of the left front body 2 on the separation part 3 side. Two edges) 21 are formed.

図１（Ａ）のカーディガン１００は、図１（Ｂ）に示す状態で編成されたカーディガン１００を加工することで得られる（どのような加工を行うかについては後述する）。図１（Ｂ）のカーディガン１００は、ネックホールを含む離隔部３のうち、前立てに対応する位置に、右側縁部１１の袋内部と左側縁部２１の袋内部とを繋ぐ渡り糸部３１を備える点が、図１（Ａ）のカーディガン１００と異なる。   The cardigan 100 of FIG. 1 (A) is obtained by processing the cardigan 100 knitted in the state shown in FIG. 1 (B) (what kind of processing is performed will be described later). The cardigan 100 of FIG. 1 (B) has a crossover thread portion 31 connecting the inside of the bag of the right edge portion 11 and the inside of the bag of the left edge portion 21 at a position corresponding to the placket in the separation portion 3 including the neck hole. It is different from the cardigan 100 of FIG.

上記渡り糸部３１は、右前身頃１、左前身頃２、後身頃４、右側縁部１１、および左側縁部２１と同じ編糸で編成されている。つまり、身頃全体が、渡り糸部３１も含めて同一の編糸で編成されている。この渡り糸部３１の一方の端部は右側縁部１１の袋内部に固定され、渡り糸部３１の他方の端部は左側縁部２１の袋内部に固定されている。その結果、渡り糸部３１によって、右前身頃１と左前身頃２との相対的な位置が保持されている。なお、インターシャ編成などを用いて身頃１，２と、縁部１１，２１とを別の編糸で編成しても良いが、その場合でも縁部１１，２１と渡り糸部３１とは同一の編糸で編成する。   The transition yarn portion 31 is knitted with the same knitting yarn as the right front body 1, the left front body 2, the back body 4, the right edge 11, and the left edge 21. That is, the entire body is knitted with the same knitting yarn, including the transition yarn portion 31. One end of the transition yarn portion 31 is fixed inside the bag of the right edge portion 11, and the other end of the transition yarn portion 31 is fixed inside the bag of the left edge portion 21. As a result, the relative positions of the right front body 1 and the left front body 2 are held by the crossover thread portion 31. The body parts 1 and 2 and the edge parts 11 and 21 may be knitted with different knitting yarns using intarsia knitting, but the edge parts 11 and 21 and the crossover yarn part 31 are the same. Knitting with knitting yarn.

図１（Ｂ）のカーディガン１００は、洗濯された後、セット作業に供される。洗濯の際、渡り糸部３１が右前身頃１と左前身頃２との相対的な位置を保持するため、洗濯後のカーディガン１００のセット作業が行い易い。セット作業が終了したら、渡り糸部３１のうち、離隔部３の位置に配置される部分を切断し、カーディガン１００を編幅方向に軽く引っ張る。そうすることで、渡り糸部３１の左右の切断端がそれぞれ、右側縁部１１の袋内部と左側縁部２１の袋内部に引き込まれ、図１（Ａ）に示すカーディガン１００が得られる。つまり、図１（Ａ）のカーディガン１００の縁部１１，２１の袋内部には、外観からは見えないが、渡り糸部３１の切断端が存在する。   The cardigan 100 of FIG. 1 (B) is subjected to a set operation after being washed. During washing, the crossover yarn part 31 holds the relative positions of the right front body 1 and the left front body 2, so that the cardigan 100 can be easily set after washing. When the setting operation is completed, a portion of the crossover yarn portion 31 that is disposed at the position of the separation portion 3 is cut, and the cardigan 100 is pulled lightly in the knitting width direction. By doing so, the left and right cut ends of the crossover yarn portion 31 are respectively drawn into the bag inside the right edge 11 and the bag inside the left edge 21, and the cardigan 100 shown in FIG. 1A is obtained. That is, there is a cut end of the transition yarn portion 31 inside the bag of the edge portions 11 and 21 of the cardigan 100 of FIG.

なお、渡り糸部３１における右側縁部１１近傍の位置と左側縁部２１近傍の位置の二箇所を切断すれば、渡り糸部３１の収縮によって、渡り糸部３１の左右の切断端を縁部１１，２１の袋内部に引き込ませることもできる。いずれにせよ、切断端の処理に特別な道具を必要としないし、手間も掛からない。   In addition, if two places, the position in the vicinity of the right edge 11 and the position in the vicinity of the left edge 21, of the transition yarn portion 31 are cut, the left and right cut ends of the transition yarn portion 31 are edged by the contraction of the transition yarn portion 31. It can also be pulled inside the 11 and 21 bags. In any case, no special tools are required to handle the cut edge, and no effort is required.

≪編成方法≫
図１（Ｂ）のカーディガン１００の身頃における胴部は、図２に示す編成手順に示すように、一筆書きの要領で編成することができる。図２における『ｓ』を編成開始点とすると、カーディガン１００は、右前身頃１→右側縁部１１→渡り糸部３１→左側縁部２１→左前身頃２→後身頃４→右前身頃１→…といったように、全体的に反時計回りに周回編成することができる。一定方向にカーディガン１００を周回編成することで、カーディガン１００の全体的な目面を揃えることができ、見栄えの良いカーディガン１００を編成することができる。もちろん、左前身頃２（第一編地部）→左側縁部２１（第一縁部）→渡り糸部３１→右側縁部１１（第二縁部）→右前身頃１（第二編地部）→…といったように、全体的に時計回りに編成することもできる。 ≪Knitting method≫
As shown in the knitting procedure shown in FIG. 2, the body part of the body of the cardigan 100 of FIG. Assuming that “s” in FIG. 2 is the knitting start point, the cardigan 100 is such that the right front body 1 → the right edge 11 → the crossover thread 31 → the left edge 21 → the left front body 2 → the back body 4 → the right front body 1 →. Thus, it is possible to knitting in a counterclockwise direction as a whole. By knitting the cardigan 100 in a certain direction, the entire face of the cardigan 100 can be aligned, and the cardigan 100 having a good appearance can be knitted. Of course, left front body 2 (first knitted fabric portion) → left side edge portion 21 (first edge portion) → crossover yarn portion 31 → right side edge portion 11 (second edge portion) → right front body 1 (second knitted fabric portion) → ... and so on, can be organized in the clockwise direction as a whole.

ここで、図２において、右側縁部１１の前側部分を後側部分よりも先に編成するのに対して、左側縁部２１の後側部分を前側部分よりも先に編成している。これは、カーディガン１００を表側から見たときに、各部１，１１，２，２１の目面を揃えるためである。編成に使用する編糸によっては目面が揃っていなくてもカーディガン１００の見栄えが損なわれない場合もある。その場合、両縁部１１，２１の前側部分と後側部分のいずれを先に編成してもかまわない。   Here, in FIG. 2, the front portion of the right edge 11 is knitted before the rear portion, whereas the rear portion of the left edge 21 is knitted before the front portion. This is because when the cardigan 100 is viewed from the front side, the eyes of the respective parts 1, 11, 2, and 21 are aligned. Depending on the knitting yarn used for knitting, the appearance of the cardigan 100 may not be impaired even if the eyes are not aligned. In that case, either the front part or the rear part of both edge parts 11 and 21 may be knitted first.

次に、渡り糸部３１の具体的な編成工程を図３に基づいて説明する。図３の編成工程図では、左右方向に延び、かつ、前後方向に互いに対向する前針床（以下、ＦＢ）と後針床（以下、ＢＢ）を備える２枚ベッド横編機を用いた編成例を説明する。図３における『Ｓ＋数字』は編成工程の番号を、○印は旧編目を、●印は各編成工程で編成される編目を、Ｖ印はタック目を、▽印は給糸口９を示す。なお、図３では、説明を容易にするために、後身頃の編成を省略している。   Next, a specific knitting process of the transition yarn portion 31 will be described with reference to FIG. In the knitting process diagram of FIG. 3, knitting using a two-bed flat knitting machine that includes a front needle bed (hereinafter referred to as FB) and a rear needle bed (hereinafter referred to as BB) that extend in the left-right direction and face each other in the front-rear direction. An example will be described. In FIG. 3, “S + number” indicates the number of the knitting process, ○ indicates the old stitch, ● indicates the stitch knitted in each knitting process, V indicates the tack, and ▽ indicates the yarn feeder 9. In FIG. 3, the rear body knitting is omitted for ease of explanation.

Ｓ０には、図２の編成手順に従って、前身頃を１コース分編成した状態が示されている。この状態から前身頃の次の１コースを編成する手順を説明する。   S0 shows a state in which the front body is knitted for one course according to the knitting procedure of FIG. A procedure for knitting the next course of the front body from this state will be described.

編成の手順は、以下の工程α〜工程εに分けることができる。
［工程α］…第一編地部１を構成する第一編目列１ｓを、離隔部３に向かって編成する。
［工程β］…第一編地部１における離隔部３側の端部に続けて、第一縁部１１を構成する第一袋状編目列１１ｓを編成する。
［工程γ］…給糸口９を移動させてその編糸９Ｙを第二編地部２の離隔部３側の端部となる位置に向かって延ばし、給糸口９から給糸された編糸９Ｙの一部が第一袋状編目列１１ｓの袋内部を横切った状態とすることで、渡り糸部３１を形成する。
［工程δ］…渡り糸部３１の延伸領域に重複する位置で、第二縁部２１を構成する第二袋状編目列２１ｓを編成し、渡り糸部３１の一部が第二袋状編目列２１ｓの袋内部を横切った状態とする。
［工程ε］…第二編地部２を構成する第二編目列２ｓを、離隔部３から離れる方向に向かって編成する。 The knitting procedure can be divided into the following steps α to ε.
[Step α]... First knitting row 1 s constituting the first knitted fabric portion 1 is knitted toward the separation portion 3.
[Step β] ... The first bag-shaped stitch row 11 s constituting the first edge 11 is knitted following the end of the first knitted fabric portion 1 on the side of the separation portion 3.
[Step γ]... The yarn feeder 9 is moved to extend the knitting yarn 9Y toward the end of the second knitted fabric portion 2 on the side of the separation portion 3, and the yarn 9Y fed from the yarn feeder 9 is supplied. Is formed in a state where a part thereof crosses the inside of the bag of the first bag-like stitch row 11s, thereby forming the transition yarn portion 31.
[Step δ] ... The second bag-like stitch row 21s constituting the second edge 21 is knitted at a position overlapping with the stretched region of the jumping yarn portion 31, and a part of the jumping yarn portion 31 is the second bag-like stitch. It is assumed that the inside of the bag in the row 21s is crossed.
[Step ε]... The second stitch row 2 s constituting the second knitted fabric portion 2 is knitted in the direction away from the separating portion 3.

Ｓ１では、給糸口９を離隔部３側に近づく方向（左前身頃２のある方向）に移動させ、右前身頃１を構成する第一編目列１ｓをＦＢに編成した（工程α）。また、Ｓ１では、第一編目列１ｓの離隔部３側の端部に続けて、袋状の右側縁部１１の前側部分を構成する編目列をＦＢに編成した。   In S1, the yarn feeder 9 is moved in the direction approaching the separating portion 3 side (the direction in which the left front body 2 is present), and the first stitch row 1s constituting the right front body 1 is knitted into an FB (step α). Moreover, in S1, the stitch row | line | column which comprises the front side part of the bag-like right side edge part 11 was knitted into FB following the edge part 1 side of the 1st stitch row | line | column 1s.

Ｓ２では、給糸口９を離隔部３から離れる方向（右前身頃１のある方向）に移動させ、袋状の右側縁部１１の後側部分を構成する編目列をＢＢに編成した。Ｓ１の後半部分とＳ２とによって、ＦＢとＢＢに袋状に編目が並ぶ第一袋状編目列１１ｓが編成される（工程β）。   In S2, the yarn feeder 9 is moved in the direction away from the separating portion 3 (the direction in which the right front body 1 is located), and the stitch row constituting the rear portion of the bag-like right edge 11 is knitted into BB. The first bag-shaped stitch row 11s in which the stitches are arranged in a bag shape on the FB and the BB is knitted by the second half portion of S1 and S2 (step β).

Ｓ３では、第一編目列１ｓにおける離隔部３側の端部近傍の編目に給糸口９から給糸される編糸９Ｙをタックによって固定した後、給糸口９を移動させてその編糸９Ｙを左前身頃２の離隔部３側の端部となる位置に向かって延ばす（工程γ）。その結果、給糸口９から給糸された編糸９Ｙの一部が第一袋状編目列１１ｓの袋内部を横切った状態となる。さらにＳ３では、編糸９Ｙをタックによって左前身頃２の離隔部３側の端部近傍の編目に固定した。その結果、始端部と終端部とがそれぞれ、タックによって右前身頃１と左前身頃２に固定された渡り糸部３１が形成される。   In S3, after fixing the knitting yarn 9Y fed from the yarn feeder 9 to the stitches near the end on the separating portion 3 side in the first stitch row 1s by tacking, the yarn feeder 9 is moved to move the knitting yarn 9Y. Extend toward the position of the left front body 2 at the end of the separation part 3 side (step γ). As a result, a part of the knitting yarn 9Y fed from the yarn feeder 9 crosses the inside of the first bag-like stitch row 11s. Furthermore, in S3, the knitting yarn 9Y was fixed to the stitches in the vicinity of the end portion of the left front body 2 on the side of the separation portion 3 by tacking. As a result, a crossover thread portion 31 is formed in which the start end portion and the end end portion are respectively fixed to the right front body 1 and the left front body 2 by tacking.

ここで、タックによる渡り糸部３１の始端部の固定は、給糸口９を離隔部３から離れる方向に移動させるＳ２の最後に行っても良いし、タックによる渡り糸部３１の終端部の固定は次のＳ４の最初に行っても良い。また、タックの数を増やして、渡り糸部３１の始端部と終端部の固定をより強固なものとしても良い。なお、渡り糸部３１の固定は、タックによって行うことに限定されるわけではなく、ニットや割増やしによって行うこともできる。   Here, the start end portion of the transition yarn portion 31 by the tack may be fixed at the end of S2 in which the yarn feeder 9 is moved in the direction away from the separation portion 3, or the end portion of the transition yarn portion 31 by the tack may be fixed. May be performed at the beginning of the next S4. Further, the number of tacks may be increased so that the start end portion and the end end portion of the crossover yarn portion 31 are more firmly fixed. Note that the fixing of the crossover yarn portion 31 is not limited to tucking, but can be performed by knit or additional splitting.

Ｓ４では、給糸口９を離隔部３に近づく方向（右前身頃１がある方向）に移動させ、渡り糸部３１の延伸方向に重複する位置で、袋状の左側縁部２１の後側部分を構成する編目列をＢＢに編成した。   In S4, the yarn feeder 9 is moved in the direction approaching the separating portion 3 (the direction in which the right front body 1 is present), and the rear side portion of the bag-like left edge 21 is overlapped in the extending direction of the crossover yarn portion 31. The stitch row to be formed was knitted into BB.

Ｓ５では、給糸口９を離隔部３から離れる方向（左前身頃２がある方向）に移動させ、袋状の左側縁部２１の前側部分を編成した後、左前身頃２を構成する第二編目列２ｓを編成した（Ｓ４とＳ５の前半部分が工程δ、Ｓ５の後半部分が工程ε）。   In S5, after the yarn feeder 9 is moved in the direction away from the separating portion 3 (the direction in which the left front body 2 is present), the front side portion of the bag-like left edge 21 is knitted, and then the second stitch row constituting the left front body 2 2s was knitted (the first half of S4 and S5 was step δ, and the second half of S5 was step ε).

Ｓ５の後は、図２に示す後身頃４の編成を行った。その結果、図１（Ｂ）のカーディガン１００の身頃の胴部を１コース分編成することができる。以降は、図３のＳ１〜Ｓ５の編成と、後身頃の編成と、を順次繰り返すことで、図１（Ｂ）のカーディガン１００を完成させることができる。   After S5, the back body 4 shown in FIG. 2 was knitted. As a result, the body part of the body of the cardigan 100 of FIG. 1B can be knitted for one course. Thereafter, the cardigan 100 of FIG. 1B can be completed by sequentially repeating the knitting of S1 to S5 of FIG. 3 and the knitting of the back body.

以上説明した図２，３の編成方法によれば、カーディガン１００の身頃を、同一の給糸口９を用いて編成することができる。つまり、挿入糸を用いて離隔部を結束する従来の編成方法よりも、使用する給糸口の数を減らすことができ、それに伴って、糸入れ・糸出しの手間を減らすことができる。その結果、カーディガン１００の生産性を従来よりも向上させることができる。   2 and 3 described above, the body of the cardigan 100 can be knitted using the same yarn feeder 9. That is, the number of yarn feeders to be used can be reduced as compared with the conventional knitting method in which the separating portion is bundled by using the insertion yarn, and accordingly, labor for yarn insertion and yarn extraction can be reduced. As a result, the productivity of the cardigan 100 can be improved as compared with the prior art.

＜実施形態２＞
本発明の編地の編成方法を利用して、図４に示すような右前身頃１と左前身頃２との間に離隔部３が形成されたベスト１０１を編成することもできる。当該離隔部３における渡り糸部（図示せず）の形成は、実施形態１の図３と同様に行うと良い。 <Embodiment 2>
By using the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, it is also possible to knitting a vest 101 in which a separation portion 3 is formed between a right front body 1 and a left front body 2 as shown in FIG. The formation of the crossover yarn portion (not shown) in the separation portion 3 may be performed in the same manner as in FIG.

ここで、ベスト１０１には、アームホールが形成されている。このアームホールは、前後に並列される前身頃１，２と後身頃４との間に形成される離隔部３と見做すこともできる。従って、アームホールにも渡り糸部を形成し、渡り糸部で前身頃１，２と後身頃４とを繋いでも良い。図４の二点鎖線で示す部分の編成手順の一例を図５に示す。図５の見方は実施形態１の図２と同様である。   Here, arm holes are formed in the vest 101. This armhole can also be regarded as a separation part 3 formed between the front bodies 1 and 2 and the back body 4 that are arranged in parallel in the front and rear direction. Therefore, a crossover yarn part may be formed also in the arm hole, and the front body parts 1, 2 and the back body part 4 may be connected by the crossover thread part. FIG. 5 shows an example of the knitting procedure for the portion indicated by the two-dot chain line in FIG. 5 is the same as FIG. 2 of the first embodiment.

図５の『ｓ』を始点とした場合、図５の矢印に示す手順でベスト１０１を編成することができる。左右に並列される右前身頃１と左前身頃２の編成については、図２，３と同様に行うことができる。また、前後に並列される左前身頃２と後身頃４の編成については、左前身頃２（第一編地部）→第一縁部１１→渡り糸部３１→第二縁部２１→後身頃４（第二編地部）、の順に編成する。さらに、前後に並列される後身頃４と右前身頃１の編成については、後身頃４（第一編地部）→第一縁部１１→渡り糸部３１→第二縁部２１→右前身頃１（第二編地部）、の順に編成する。ベスト１０１の編成が終了したら、洗濯してセット作業を行い、渡り糸部３１を切断することで、図４のベスト１０１を完成させる。   When “s” in FIG. 5 is used as the starting point, the vest 101 can be knitted by the procedure shown by the arrow in FIG. The knitting of the right front body 1 and the left front body 2 that are arranged side by side can be performed in the same manner as in FIGS. Further, for the knitting of the left front body 2 and the back body 4 that are juxtaposed in the front-rear direction, the left front body 2 (first knitted fabric portion) → the first edge portion 11 → the crossover yarn portion 31 → the second edge portion 21 → the back body portion 4 Knit in the order of (second knitted fabric part). Further, for the knitting of the back body 4 and the right front body 1 that are arranged in parallel, the back body 4 (first knitted fabric portion) → the first edge portion 11 → the crossover yarn portion 31 → the second edge portion 21 → the right front body 1 Knit in the order of (second knitted fabric part). When the knitting of the vest 101 is completed, washing and setting work are performed, and the transition yarn portion 31 is cut to complete the vest 101 of FIG.

なお、図５の編成手順でベスト１０１を編成する場合、縁部１１，２１と身頃１，２，４とが閉じ合わされないように、目移しを行いながらベスト１０１を編成する。その目移しのための空針を確保するため、このベスト１０１の編成には４枚ベッド横編機を利用することが好ましい。   When the vest 101 is knitted in the knitting procedure of FIG. 5, the vest 101 is knitted while transferring so that the edge portions 11, 21 and the body parts 1, 2, 4 are not closed. In order to secure an empty needle for the transfer, it is preferable to use a four-bed flat knitting machine for the knitting of the vest 101.

＜実施形態３＞
実施形態１，２では、筒状の編地を編成する例を説明した。これに対して、実施形態３では、図６に基づいて離隔部を有する単層編地の編成例を説明する。 <Embodiment 3>
In the first and second embodiments, the example in which the tubular knitted fabric is knitted has been described. On the other hand, Embodiment 3 demonstrates the knitting example of the single layer knitted fabric which has a separation part based on FIG.

図６は、平面展開された状態で編成されたカーディガン１００の概略図である。このカーディガン１００は、前身頃１，２の裾側から編成を開始し、後身頃４の裾側で編成を終了することで得られる単層編地である。このカーディガン１００の開き部３に渡り糸部３１を形成しながら前身頃１，２を編成する場合、以下に示す［１］、［２］を交互に繰り返すと良い。
［１］…右前身頃１→右側縁部１１→渡り糸部３１→左側縁部２１→左前身頃２の順に１コース分の編成を行う。
［２］…左前身頃２→左側縁部２１→渡り糸部３１→右側縁部１１→右前身頃１の順に１コース分の編成を行う。 FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the cardigan 100 knitted in a state of being flattened. This cardigan 100 is a single-layer knitted fabric obtained by starting knitting from the hem side of the front bodies 1 and 2 and finishing knitting on the hem side of the back body 4. When the front bodies 1 and 2 are knitted while forming the cross yarn portion 31 in the opening portion 3 of the cardigan 100, the following [1] and [2] may be repeated alternately.
[1] ... Knit for one course is performed in the order of the right front body 1 → the right edge 11 → the crossover thread 31 → the left edge 21 → the left front body 2.
[2] ... Knitting for one course is performed in the order of left front body 2 → left edge 21 → crossover thread 31 → right edge 11 → right front body 1.

カーディガン１００の編成が終了したら、前身頃１，２の脇ラインと後身頃４の脇ラインとを縫製で接合すると共に、縫製によって袖を筒状に接合し、洗濯→セット作業→渡り糸部３１の切断を経て、カーディガン１００を完成させる。   When the knitting of the cardigan 100 is finished, the side lines of the front bodies 1 and 2 and the side line of the back body 4 are joined together by sewing, and the sleeves are joined into a cylindrical shape by sewing, washing → setting work → crossover yarn part 31. The cardigan 100 is completed after cutting.

＜その他の実施形態＞
本発明の編地の編成方法によって、前身頃１（後身頃４）の部分にスリット状の離隔部３を複数設けたニットウェアを編成しても良い。例えば、裾から所定の高さまで前身頃１と後身頃４を筒状に編成した後、前身頃１を編幅方向に複数の編地部に分岐させ、再び複数の編地部を一つに繋ぐことで、前身頃１の途中にスリット状の離隔部３を形成できる。その複数の編地部を本発明の編地の編成方法によって一連に編成することができる。もちろん、裾に開口するスリット状の離隔部３を設けることもできる。 <Other embodiments>
By the knitting method of the knitted fabric of the present invention, knitwear in which a plurality of slit-like separation portions 3 are provided in the front body 1 (rear body 4) may be knitted. For example, after the front body 1 and the back body 4 are knitted into a cylindrical shape from the hem to a predetermined height, the front body 1 is branched into a plurality of knitted fabric portions in the knitting width direction, and the plurality of knitted fabric portions are united again. By connecting, the slit-shaped separation part 3 can be formed in the middle of the front body 1. The plurality of knitted fabric portions can be knitted in series by the knitted fabric knitting method of the present invention. Of course, it is also possible to provide a slit-like separation portion 3 that opens at the bottom.

その他、編地１００，１０１に設けた渡り糸部３１を切断せずに編地１００，１０１の装飾として残しても構わない。   In addition, the crossover yarn portion 31 provided on the knitted fabrics 100 and 101 may be left as decoration of the knitted fabrics 100 and 101 without cutting.

１００ カーディガン（編地）
１０１ ベスト（編地）
１ 右前身頃（第一編地部） １ｓ 第一編目列
１１ 右側縁部（第一縁部） １１ｓ 第一袋状編目列
２ 左前身頃（第二編地部） ２ｓ 第二編目列
２１ 左側縁部（第二縁部） ２１ｓ 第二袋状編目列
３ 離隔部 ３１ 渡り糸部
４ 後身頃
９ 給糸口 ９Ｙ 編糸
ＦＢ 前針床 ＢＢ 後針床 100 cardigan (knitted fabric)
101 Best (knitted fabric)
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Right front body (1st knitted fabric part) 1s 1st stitch row 11 Right edge (1st edge) 11s 1st bag-like stitch row 2 Left front body (2nd knitted fabric portion) 2s 2nd stitch row 21 Left edge Part (second edge) 21 s Second bag-like stitch row 3 Separation part 31 Transition yarn part 4 Back body 9 Yarn feed port 9Y Knitting yarn FB Front needle bed BB Rear needle bed

Claims (4)

離隔部を挟んで左右方向あるいは前後方向に並列される第一編地部および第二編地部と、前記第一編地部の前記離隔部側端部に設けられる袋状の第一縁部と、前記第二編地部の前記離隔部側端部に設けられる袋状の第二縁部と、を備える編地を、対向する前後一対の針床を備える横編機を用いて編成する編地の編成方法において、
前記横編機に備わる同一の給糸口を用いて、前記第一縁部と前記第二縁部とを編成する間に、前記第一縁部の袋内部から前記第二縁部の袋内部に向かって延び、前記離隔部を横切る渡り糸部を編成し、前記第一縁部と前記第二縁部とを繋ぐ編地の編成方法。 A first knitted fabric portion and a second knitted fabric portion arranged in parallel in the left-right direction or the front-rear direction across the separation portion, and a bag-like first edge portion provided at the separation portion side end of the first knitted fabric portion And a bag-like second edge provided at the end of the second knitted fabric portion on the side of the separating portion, and knitting using a flat knitting machine having a pair of front and back needle beds. In the knitting method of the knitted fabric,
Using the same yarn feeder provided in the flat knitting machine, while knitting the first edge and the second edge, from the inside of the bag of the first edge to the inside of the bag of the second edge A knitting method of a knitted fabric that extends toward and crosses the separating portion and connects the first edge and the second edge. 前記編地が筒状編地である請求項１に記載の編地の編成方法。   The method for knitting a knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the knitted fabric is a tubular knitted fabric. 前記第一縁部および前記第二縁部を袋編成によって編成し、前記渡り糸部の両端部の固定はタックによって行う請求項１または請求項２に記載の編地の編成方法。   The knitting method of a knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first edge and the second edge are knitted by bag knitting, and both ends of the crossover yarn part are fixed by tack. 請求項１〜請求項３のいずれか１項に記載の編地の編成方法によって編地を編成し、
その編地に備わる前記渡り糸部のうち、前記離隔部の位置に配置される部分を切断し、その渡り糸部の切断端をそれぞれ、前記第一縁部の袋内部と前記第二縁部の袋内部に引き込ませる編地の製造方法。 A knitted fabric is knitted by the knitting method of the knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3,
Of the crossover yarn portion provided in the knitted fabric, a portion disposed at the position of the separating portion is cut, and the cut ends of the crossover yarn portion are respectively in the bag of the first edge portion and the second edge portion. Of manufacturing a knitted fabric that is pulled into the bag.
JP2013267890A 2013-12-25 2013-12-25 Method for knitting fabric and method for manufacturing knitted fabric Withdrawn JP2015124445A (en)

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JP2000199156A (en) 1998-12-25 2000-07-18 Tsudakoma Corp Trapping of knitting yarn in intersia knitting fabric
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DE102010012310B4 (en) * 2010-03-23 2013-08-01 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Kg Process for the production of a tubular round finished knitted fabric
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CN113818129A (en) * 2021-11-08 2021-12-21 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 Full-forming side seam opening hollowed-out tissue and weaving method thereof
CN113818129B (en) * 2021-11-08 2023-01-13 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 Full-forming side seam opening hollowed-out tissue and weaving method thereof

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