GB2384249A - Dyeing & finishing of regenerated cellulose fabric with controlled fibrillation involving treatment with acid or acid donor then heat in gaseous atmosphere - Google Patents

Dyeing & finishing of regenerated cellulose fabric with controlled fibrillation involving treatment with acid or acid donor then heat in gaseous atmosphere Download PDF

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Publication number
GB2384249A
GB2384249A GB0201066A GB0201066A GB2384249A GB 2384249 A GB2384249 A GB 2384249A GB 0201066 A GB0201066 A GB 0201066A GB 0201066 A GB0201066 A GB 0201066A GB 2384249 A GB2384249 A GB 2384249A
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Prior art keywords
fabric
acid
process according
regenerated cellulose
dyed
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GB0201066A
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GB0201066D0 (en
Inventor
James Martin Taylor
Geoffrey William Collins
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Lenzing Fibers Ltd
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Tencel Ltd
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Priority to GB0201066A priority Critical patent/GB2384249A/en
Publication of GB0201066D0 publication Critical patent/GB0201066D0/en
Priority to PCT/GB2003/000171 priority patent/WO2003062515A2/en
Priority to AU2003202038A priority patent/AU2003202038A1/en
Priority to CNB038023539A priority patent/CN1301356C/en
Priority to KR1020047010439A priority patent/KR100963697B1/en
Publication of GB2384249A publication Critical patent/GB2384249A/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/653—Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
    • D06P1/6533—Aliphatic, araliphatic or cycloaliphatic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B21/00—Successive treatments of textile materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/02—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fibres, slivers or rovings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D06M11/13—Ammonium halides or halides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D06M11/155—Halides of elements of Groups 2 or 12 of the Periodic Table
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/58—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides
    • D06M11/64—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with nitrogen or compounds thereof, e.g. with nitrides with nitrogen oxides; with oxyacids of nitrogen or their salts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/80—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with boron or compounds thereof, e.g. borides
    • D06M11/81—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with boron or compounds thereof, e.g. borides with boron; with boron halides; with fluoroborates
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/207—Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/67341—Salts or hydroxides of elements different from the alkaline or alkaline-earth metals or with anions containing those elements
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D06P1/67358—Halides or oxyhalides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66—Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

A regenerated cellulose fabric is given a clean, modified surface finish by impregnating the fabric with an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor (such as tartaric acid, citric acid or magnesium chloride), heat-treating the impregnated fabric in a gaseous atmosphere (eg air) to activate the acid or acid donor and subsequently dyeing, washing and drying the fabric using vigorous action on the fabric in at least one of the dyeing, washing and drying steps, for example by using jet dyeing or rotary tumbling. The process is used to give modal or polynosic fabrics a clean, soft-touch finish, such as a peach-touch finish. By using such a procss, the degree of fibrillation can be controlled.

Description

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DYEING AND FINISHING OF REGENERATED CELLULOSE FABRICS Field of the Invention This invention relates to a process for the dyeing and finishing of a regenerated cellulose fabric.
In this specification, the term"regenerated cellulose fabric-means a fabric woven or knitted from staple fibre yarns comprising regenerated cellulose fibres. Such yarns may comprise just regenerated cellulose fibres or a blend of regenerated cellulose fibres with one or more other fibre types such as cotton, linen, polyester and nylon.
Furthermore, the fabric may additionally include yarns which do not incorporate regenerated cellulose fibres, for example yarns of the other fibre types referred to and blends thereof.
Regenerated cellulose fibres are produced by forming cellulose into a soluble chemical derivative and then extruding a solution of this derivative through a spinning jet into a bath which regenerates the extrudate as cellulose fibres. Viscose fibres are produced in this way.
Particular spinning conditions and formulations are used to produce high strength viscose fibres known as modal and polynosic fibres.
Background Lyocell fibres, which are solvent spun cellulose fibres, not regenerated cellulose fibres, were introduced commercially relatively recently. Lyocell fibres have a tendency to fibrillate during vigorous dyeing and finishing processes and much effort has been put into controlling this phenomenon. In particular, treatments have been developed to remove the relatively long protruding fibre ends which are formed in the first stage of the
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fibrillation process (so-called"primary fibrillation") and which otherwise produce a hairy effect, often matted, on the surface of the fabric and so disfigure its appearance. On the other hand, the development of the shorter fibrils which are formed in the fibrillation process (so-called "secondary fibrillation") is encouraged. These shorter fibrils create a surface finish which is characterised as being"clean", in the sense of being substantially free of a hairy effect, and as having a soft touch imparted by the shorter fibrils on the surface and referred to as a"softtouch finish". When the shorter fibrils are sufficiently developed then the soft touch of the fabric surface is more pronounced and the soft-touch finish is referred to as a "peach-touch finish". Examples of such treatments for lyocell fabrics are described in WO 95/30043, WO 97/30204, and GB 2314568.
Regenerated cellulose fibres, even the high strength fibres such as modal or polynosic fibres, are much less susceptible to fibrillation than lyocell fibres. Although fibrillation can be induced in such fibres by very vigorous wet processing, controlling the fibrillation to produce the desired clean, soft-touch finish to a commercially acceptable standard has proved difficult. The present invention aims to modify the surface finish of regenerated cellulose fabrics generally and in particular to provide modal and polynosic fabrics with a clean, soft-touch finish which is consistently reproducible to a commercial standard.
Disclosure of the Invention The present invention provides a process for producing a dyed and finished regenerated cellulose fabric having a clean, modified surface finish by carrying out the steps of dyeing, washing and drying the fabric using vigorous action on the fabric in at least one of the steps, characterised
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in that before the dyeing step is carried out, the fabric is evenly impregnated with an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor and is then heat treated in a gaseous atmosphere to activate the action of the acid or acid donor, whereby the dyed and finished fabric has a clean, modified surface finish.
The regenerated cellulose fabric may comprise yarns of viscose fibres but the process of the invention achieves its most important effects when the yarns comprise high strength regenerated cellulose fibres such as modal or polynosic fibres. In this case, the modified surface finish obtained may be a clean, soft-touch finish, particularly a peach-touch finish.
The ability of the process of the invention to deliver dyed modal or polynosic fabrics having a clean, soft-touch finish after a vigorous wet processing step such as jet dyeing or rotary tumbling is of commercial importance. It means that the fabric can be processed on existing equipment using normal process routines without the need for extended processing times. For example, a dyeing cycle of six hours or less may be used in a jet dyeing machine.
Suitable jet dyeing machines include machines known as Thies Ecosoft, Thies Soft TRD, Gaston County Futura, and Hisaka Circular CUT-SL.
Conventional dyes and dye recipes for cellulosic fabrics may be used in the process of the invention including those based on direct dyes, vat dyes, sulphur dyes and reactive dyes.
In addition to its application to woven and knitted regenerated cellulose fabrics in the length, the process of the invention can also be used in respect of the dyeing and finishing of piece goods or garments made from regenerated cellulose fabrics. Garments made from modal or polynosic fabrics can benefit by acquiring a desirable clean, soft-
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touch finish on the surface of the garment.
The application of the solution of the acid or acid donor and the subsequent drying and heat treatment step may be applied to the regenerated cellulose fabric prior to its being converted into piece goods or garments. However, it may also be applied to the piece goods or garments after conversion.
It has been found that the clean, soft-touch finish on the product modal or polynosic fabric is protected against deterioration in subsequent processing. In particular, articles comprising the dyed fabric such as garments or other piece goods retain their clean, soft-touch finish through repeated laundering cycles.
The solution of the acid or acid donor is preferably an aqueous solution. The fabric may be evenly impregnated with this solution using any of the conventional techniques for applying liquids to fabric. Fabric in the length may be passed in open width through a pad bath of the aqueous solution, usually with a wet pick up of the solution in the range 65 to 80 per cent by weight on weight of fabric. Piece goods such as garments may be immersed in the solution in a vessel such as a drum washing machine.
The acid or acid donor is preferably a weak acid of the type used as a catalyst for resins used in textile finishing processes. Suitable acids or acid donors include organic acids such as citric acid and tartaric acid, and Lewis acids. Magnesium chloride, ammonium chloride, zinc chloride, zinc fluoroborate and zinc nitrate are suitable weak acids or acid donors. Mixtures of these compounds may also be used and indeed, manufacturers of acid catalysts for resin finishing sometimes use mixtures in their catalyst formulations. An example of a commercial product which can be used in the process of the invention is Condensol FB (trade mark of BASF AG) an acid catalyst
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comprising a mixture of magnesium chloride and zinc fluoroborate.
Solution concentrations of the acid or acid donor depend upon the particular acid or acid donor used; lower concentrations with highly active materials to avoid unwanted acid damage to the fabric and higher concentrations with less active materials. For commercial products, the manufacturers recommend concentrations for resin-finishing processes and, in general, such concentrations may be used in the process of the invention.
Organic acids can be used in the concentration range of about 2.0 to 20.0 grams per litre, for example about 4.0 to 6.0 grams per litre in the case of citric acid. Less active acids or acid donors may require greater concentrations, for example up to about 40.0 grams per litre. Excessive concentrations are to be avoided in all cases to prevent unwanted acid damage to the fabric and to minimise chemical usage.
The impregnated fabric is dried and then heat-treated in a gaseous atmosphere, for example in a hot air oven. The drying step may be a separate step but preferably is just the initial stage of the heating step. The regenerated cellulose fabric preferably is treated in open width, for example on a stenter passing through a heating oven or chamber. The temperature of the gaseous atmosphere used in the heat treatment is chosen to be effective in initiating the action of the particular acid or acid donor used. In general, a range of 1200C to 220 C is suitable, more preferably, a range of 1400C to 200 C. Again, processing times depend upon the particular acid or acid donor used but are usually in the range 30.0 seconds to 5.0 minutes.
Any residual acid may be removed by washing or scouring the heat treated fabric and then re-drying it.
If yarns of the regenerated cellulose fabric have been sized or lubricated to facilitate weaving or knitting, then
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the fabric preferably is subjected to a desizing or scouring operation, usually carried out prior to the impregnation with the acid or acid donor. This may be a conventional operation in which the fabric is passed through a scouring bath to remove the size or lubricant. If pre-bleaching of the fabric is required, then it is preferred that this is carried out prior to the impregnation with the acid or acid donor.
Another possible treatment of the fabric is a so-called causticising treatment with an aqueous sodium hydroxide solution. This should be carried out after the impregnation with the acid or acid donor and the subsequent heat treatment but before the dyeing step. Causticising is carried out to improve the flexibility of the fabric in the wet state. Causticising also enhances dyeability of the fabric which may be depressed by the acid treatment and has the further effect that the fabric is tightened in structure which helps to reduce any propensity for shrinkage in later wet processing. After causticising, the fabric should be thoroughly rinsed with hot and then cold water to remove residual caustic soda.
After being washed to remove any unfixed dye, the dyed fabric may be given conventional finishing treatments including application of a soft-finish by a conventional padding operation. This may be carried out after the dyeing and washing processes without the need for any intermediate drying of the fabric. If a wet tumbling treatment is required to develop a soft-touch finish, this may be carried out in a rotary tumbling machine after dyeing, either together with or after any soft finish treatment. The finished fabric may then be given a final drying for example in a tumble-drying machine.
The invention is illustrated by the following Example :-
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Example A regenerated cellulose fabric comprised a woven fabric of basis weight 180 gsm (grams per square metre) constructed in a 2 by 1 twill weave from yarns of count 1/20s Ne comprising 100 per cent high wet modulus modal fibres of 1.3 dtex (HWM Modal fibres ex Lenzing).
The fabric was scoured in open width using an aqueous scour bath containing a non-ionic detergent and sodium carbonate and at a temperature of 900 C, and was then dried on a stenter at a temperature of 1000C.
Half of the scoured fabric was reserved as a control and the other half was impregnated by padding with an aqueous solution of 14 grams per litre of magnesium chloride hexahydrate and 1.0 grams per litre of a wetting agent, Kieralon JET (Kieralon is a trademark of BASF AG) at 80 per cent wet pick up. The impregnated fabric was stentered and dried at a temperature of 1100 C and then heat treated in air at a temperature of 1900C for 50 seconds.
The treated fabric and the control fabric were then each dyed and finished using the same regime. Dyeing was carried out on a Gaston County Futura jet dyeing machine over a period of 6 hours using the following dyebath :- Procion H-EXL dye at 4.0 per cent owf (on weight of fabric) (Procion is a trademark of Dystar AG) Sodium sulphate at 60 grams per litre Soda ash at 20 grams per litre The dyed fabrics were rinsed with water to remove unfixed dye, softened using Edunine CSA (Edunine is a trademark of Uniqema) at 2.0 per cent owf applied from an aqueous bath at a temperature of 40 C, and then tumble-dried in a Thies Rototumbler fabric tumbling machine.
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The control fabric was unfibrillated and had a normal smooth surface. The treated fabric had developed a clean, soft-touch finish.

Claims (24)

  1. Claims 1. A process for producing a dyed and finished regenerated cellulose fabric having a clean, modified surface finish by carrying out the steps of dyeing, washing and drying the fabric using vigorous action on the fabric in at least one of the steps characterised in that before the dyeing step is carried out, the fabric is evenly impregnated with an aqueous solution of an acid or acid donor and is then heat treated in a gaseous atmosphere to activate the action of the acid or acid donor, whereby the dyed and finished fabric has a clean, modified surface finish.
  2. 2. A process according to claim 1 in which the regenerated cellulose fabric is a modal or polynosic fabric characterised in that the modified surface finish is a soft-touch finish.
  3. 3. A process according to claim 1 or claim 2 characterised in that the regenerated cellulose fabric is dyed by a process which uses vigorous action on the fabric.
  4. 4. A process according to claim 3 characterised in that the regenerated cellulose fabric is dyed in a jet dyeing machine.
  5. 5. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the dyed fabric is subjected to washing and/or drying in a rotary tumbling machine.
  6. 6. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the acid or acid donor is a weak acid of the type used as a catalyst for resins used in textile finishing processes.
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  7. 7. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the acid or acid donor is used in concentration of up to 40.0 grams per litre in aqueous solution.
  8. 8. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the acid donor is magnesium chloride.
  9. 9. A process according to any of claims 1 to 6 characterised in that the acid is an organic acid.
  10. 10. A process according to claim 9 characterised in that the organic acid is used in a concentration of 2.0 to 20.0 grams per litre in aqueous solution.
  11. 11. A process according to claim 9 characterised in that the organic acid is citric acid.
  12. 12. A process according to claim 11 characterised in that the citric acid is used in concentration of 4.0 to 6.0 grams per litre in aqueous solution.
  13. 13. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the impregnated fabric is heat treated in a gaseous atmosphere at a temperature of 1200 C to 2200C.
  14. 14. A process according to claim 13 characterised in that the gaseous atmosphere is at a temperature in the range of 140 Cto 200 C.
  15. 15. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the gaseous atmosphere used for the heat treatment is air.
  16. 16. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the regenerated cellulose fabric is a woven or knitted fabric.
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  17. 17. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the regenerated cellulose fabric is in the form of a garment at least in the dyeing and finishing steps.
  18. 18. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the regenerated cellulose fabric is subjected to a scouring operation prior to the impregnation with the acid or acid donor.
  19. 19. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the regenerated cellulose fabric is subjected to a causticising treatment after the impregnation with the acid or acid donor and the subsequent heat treatment step but before the dyeing step.
  20. 20. A process according to any preceding claim characterised in that the dyed regenerated cellulose fabric is treated with a soft finish before final drying.
  21. 21. A process for producing a dyed and finished modal fabric having a clean, soft-touch finish characterised by being carried out according to the procedure set out in the Example.
  22. 22. A dyed and finished regenerated cellulose fabric having a clean, modified surface finish characterised by being produced by a process according to any preceding claim.
  23. 23. A dyed and finished regenerated cellulose fabric as claimed in claim 22 characterised in that the fabric has a soft-touch finish.
  24. 24. A dyed and finished regenerated cellulose fabric as claimed in claim 23 characterised in that the fabric has a peach-touch finish.
GB0201066A 2002-01-17 2002-01-17 Dyeing & finishing of regenerated cellulose fabric with controlled fibrillation involving treatment with acid or acid donor then heat in gaseous atmosphere Withdrawn GB2384249A (en)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB0201066A GB2384249A (en) 2002-01-17 2002-01-17 Dyeing & finishing of regenerated cellulose fabric with controlled fibrillation involving treatment with acid or acid donor then heat in gaseous atmosphere
PCT/GB2003/000171 WO2003062515A2 (en) 2002-01-17 2003-01-16 Dyeing and finishing of modal fabrics
AU2003202038A AU2003202038A1 (en) 2002-01-17 2003-01-16 Dyeing and finishing of modal fabrics
CNB038023539A CN1301356C (en) 2002-01-17 2003-01-16 Dyeing and finishing of modal fabrics
KR1020047010439A KR100963697B1 (en) 2002-01-17 2003-01-16 Dyeing and finishing of modal fabrics

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GB0201066A GB2384249A (en) 2002-01-17 2002-01-17 Dyeing & finishing of regenerated cellulose fabric with controlled fibrillation involving treatment with acid or acid donor then heat in gaseous atmosphere

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GB0201066D0 GB0201066D0 (en) 2002-03-06
GB2384249A true GB2384249A (en) 2003-07-23

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AU (1) AU2003202038A1 (en)
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US20170073863A1 (en) * 2011-11-09 2017-03-16 Lenzing Ag Dispersible non-woven fabrics

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AT511288B1 (en) * 2010-11-24 2013-01-15 Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag Flame resistant fabric for protective clothing
CN103767200B (en) * 2014-01-06 2015-11-18 浙江金三发粘合衬有限公司 A kind of preparation technology of Modal two point lining
WO2021180817A1 (en) 2020-03-12 2021-09-16 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Method for reducing the pilling behaviour of a fabric containing or consisting of man-made cellulosic fibers

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GB951543A (en) * 1960-03-02 1964-03-04 Lipaco Sa The manufacture of cellulosic fabric structures
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GB833284A (en) * 1956-05-31 1960-04-21 American Viscose Corp Improving the resistance to soiling of regenerated cellulose
GB930133A (en) * 1959-02-12 1963-07-03 Courtaulds Ltd Improvements in the treatment of cellulose materials
GB951543A (en) * 1960-03-02 1964-03-04 Lipaco Sa The manufacture of cellulosic fabric structures
US3269797A (en) * 1963-03-25 1966-08-30 Courtaulds North America Inc Diethanol sulfone-formaldehyde modification of cellulose catalyzed by a lewis acid salt

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20170073863A1 (en) * 2011-11-09 2017-03-16 Lenzing Ag Dispersible non-woven fabrics
US9873964B2 (en) * 2011-11-09 2018-01-23 Lenzig Aktiengesellschaft Dispersible non-woven fabrics

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GB0201066D0 (en) 2002-03-06
KR100963697B1 (en) 2010-06-14
CN1301356C (en) 2007-02-21
WO2003062515A2 (en) 2003-07-31
WO2003062515A3 (en) 2004-10-07
AU2003202038A1 (en) 2003-09-02
KR20040076879A (en) 2004-09-03
CN1617963A (en) 2005-05-18

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