GB2322642A - Lyocell fabric treatment - Google Patents
Lyocell fabric treatment Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- GB2322642A GB2322642A GB9704073A GB9704073A GB2322642A GB 2322642 A GB2322642 A GB 2322642A GB 9704073 A GB9704073 A GB 9704073A GB 9704073 A GB9704073 A GB 9704073A GB 2322642 A GB2322642 A GB 2322642A
- Authority
- GB
- United Kingdom
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- flame
- fibrillation
- lyocell
- aqueous medium
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 95
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- 206010061592 cardiac fibrillation Diseases 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 230000002600 fibrillogenic effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 239000012736 aqueous medium Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims description 8
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propane Chemical compound CCC ATUOYWHBWRKTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- VNWKTOKETHGBQD-UHFFFAOYSA-N methane Chemical compound C VNWKTOKETHGBQD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002609 medium Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000001273 butane Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- IJDNQMDRQITEOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-butane Chemical compound CCCC IJDNQMDRQITEOD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- OFBQJSOFQDEBGM-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-pentane Natural products CCCCC OFBQJSOFQDEBGM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001294 propane Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 7
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 7
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 description 7
- 229920002678 cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 5
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 4
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 3
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 108010059892 Cellulase Proteins 0.000 description 2
- LFTLOKWAGJYHHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-methylmorpholine N-oxide Chemical compound CN1(=O)CCOCC1 LFTLOKWAGJYHHR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000002485 combustion reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000013068 control sample Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000001125 extrusion Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 2
- RTLULCVBFCRQKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-amino-4-[3-[(4,6-dichloro-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]-4-sulfoanilino]-9,10-dioxoanthracene-2-sulfonic acid Chemical compound C1=2C(=O)C3=CC=CC=C3C(=O)C=2C(N)=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=C1NC(C=1)=CC=C(S(O)(=O)=O)C=1NC1=NC(Cl)=NC(Cl)=N1 RTLULCVBFCRQKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AFCARXCZXQIEQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-[3-oxo-3-(2,4,6,7-tetrahydrotriazolo[4,5-c]pyridin-5-yl)propyl]-2-[[3-(trifluoromethoxy)phenyl]methylamino]pyrimidine-5-carboxamide Chemical compound O=C(CCNC(=O)C=1C=NC(=NC=1)NCC1=CC(=CC=C1)OC(F)(F)F)N1CC2=C(CC1)NN=N2 AFCARXCZXQIEQB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005864 Sulphur Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000013019 agitation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229940106157 cellulase Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000001112 coagulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015271 coagulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005345 coagulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- ZOOODBUHSVUZEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethoxymethanedithioic acid Chemical compound CCOC(S)=S ZOOODBUHSVUZEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009981 jet dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000005012 migration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013508 migration Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004745 nonwoven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- JTJMJGYZQZDUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N phencyclidine Chemical compound C1CCCCN1C1(C=2C=CC=CC=2)CCCCC1 JTJMJGYZQZDUJJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000003672 processing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001172 regenerating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000984 vat dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012991 xanthate Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C9/00—Singeing
- D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
A method of producing a lyocell fabric, having substantially only secondary fibrillation, comprises flame treating the surface of a lyocell fabric, processing the lyocell fabric in an aqueous medium, such as a dye solution, to generate fibrillation and thereafter softening and tumbling the fabric. A lyocell fabric having a peach-skin finish produced by this method is also disclosed.
Description
Lyocell Fabric Treatment
This invention relates to a method of producing lyocell fabrics displaying predominately secondary fibrillation, that is to say fabrics which comprise lyocell fibres, either alone or in blend with one or more other types of fibre, including garments made wholly or partly from lyocell fabric.
Lyocell fibres are known, and their manufacture is described for example in US-A-4,416,698, the contents of which are incorporated herein by way of reference.
Cellulose is dissolved in a solvent containing a tertiary amine N-oxide (which may also be called for brevity an amine oxide), for example N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO). The solvent generally also contains a proportion of a nonsolvent for cellulose, for example water. The resulting solution is extruded through a suitable die to produce fibres, which are coagulated, washed in water to remove the solvent, and dried. This process of extrusion and coagulation is referred to as "solvent-spinning", and the cellulose fibre produced thereby is referred to as 'solvent Ii spun cellulose fibre or under the generic name lyocell fibre. It is also known that cellulose fibres can be made by extrusion of a solution of a cellulose derivative into a coagulating and regenerating bath. One example of such a process is the viscose process, in which the cellulose derivative is cellulose xanthate. Solvent-spinning has a number of advantages over other known processes for the manufacture of cellulosic fibre such as the viscose process, for example reduced environmental emissions.
Lyocell fibres are known to be prone to fibrillation.
Fibrillation is a phenomenon which in the main occurs when lyocell fibres are subjected to mechanical forces during wet-processing, and it results in the partial detachment of fine longitudinal fibrils from the fibres. Two types of fibrillation are recognised in lyocell fabrics, under the names primary and secondary fibrillation, as described by R
Breier in a paper entitled "Die Veredlung von Lyocellfasern - Ein Ehrfahrungsbericht" in Lenzinger Berichte 9/94 at pages 99-101. Primary fibrillation results in the formation of relatively long fibrils (often 1 mm or longer) and is uneven. This leads to an undesirable unsightly appearance, particularly in dyed fabric, because primary fibrils often appear to dye to a different shade from the bulk of the fibre even though the dye content may be the same. In contrast, secondary fibrillation can be controlled to some extent and results in the formation of relatively short fibrils, typically a fraction of a millimetre long, evenly distributed over the fabric. Such fabrics dye uniformly, and the presence of the secondary fibrils confers an attractive visual appearance and handle on the fabric, often called a mill-wash finish or a peach-skin finish or peachskin effect.
A known method of producing fabric with a peach-skin effect is to promote primary fibrillation and then to remove the primary fibrillation from the fabric by treating the fabric with cellulase enzyme and thereafter promoting secondary fibrillation by dyeing and abrading the material.
This combined process may take from 4 to 6h hours.
The present invention seeks to provide an improved method for producing lyocell fabric with a peach-skin effect.
According to the invention a method of producing a lyocell fabric having substantially only secondary fibrillation, comprises flame treating the surface of a lyocel fabric, processing the fabric in an aqueous medium to generate fibrillation and thereafter subjecting the fabric only to softening and tumbling.
The lyocell fabric can be a woven, knitted or nonwoven fabric and can, for example, be in the form of continuous fabric lengths, piece goods or garments. A woven fabric can, for example, be a plain weave or a twill fabric.
A knitted fabric can for example be of ponti di Roma or interlock construction.
The flame treatment is preferably a gas flame treatment provided by stociometric combustion of methane, propane or butane or mixtures thereof.
The fabric is typically a woven lyocell cloth or mixed cloth containing lyocell and other yarns, for example linen, which during flame treatment passes through the hotter part of the flame at a linear speed of between 10-150 mImin (meters per minute), preferably 25-100 m/min.
Alternatively, the fabric can make a plurality of passes through the flame, e.g. two passes at 50 m/min.
After the singeing or flame treatment, the fabric is preferably processed in an aqueous alkaline medium, preferably by dyeing the fabric. Alternatively, the fabric could be processed in a neutral-acidic pH dyeing medium.
Dyeing is preferably carried out using a reactive dye, although any other dyes known for dyeing cellulose fabrics can be used, for example vat dyes or sulphur dyes. Dyeing is generally carried out in aqueous solution at elevated temperature as recommended for the particular dye used. The dyeing apparatus used can be any of those used for commercial dyeing of fabrics, for example a rotary dyeing machine or a jet dyeing apparatus. The fabric can, for example, be dyed as a continuous length in rope form or can be dyed in garment form.
After dyeing, the fabric is preferably treated by an aqueous process in which the fabric is subjected to abrasion to remove any creasing or stresses caused by dyeing and to cause the desired hand and appearance of the fabric to develop. For example, if the fabric is in garment form it can be washed at moderate temperatures, for example at 400C, under the degree of mechanical agitation encountered in a domestic washing machine or a commercial machine for washing garments. Pieces of fabric can be washed similarly.
Continuous lengths of fabric are generally treated in rope form and can, for example, be finished by tumbling in a machine such as a Thies Rotatumbler or a Then AFS or
Biancalani Airo 1000 tumbling machine. In these tumbling machines a jet of air throws the fabric against a deflector plate. The fabric is continually passed through the tumbling machine so that it is repeatedly impacted against the deflector plate. The tumbling machine can be operated wet (charged with aqueous liquor) or dry, typically at fabric speeds of 100-200 m/min wet or 500-1500 m/min dry.
It may be preferred to carry out wet tumbling followed by dry tumbling. The treatment steps of dyeing and tumbling can be carried out successively in a tumbling machine if desired.
Surprisingly, it has been found that, after singeing the surface of the fabric, the tendency of a lyocell fabric to fibrillate can be controlled to fibrillate so that substantially only a peach-skin effect is produced, without the need for the long prior art primary fibrillation treatment and enzyme treatment.
The invention is illustrated by the following
Examples. In all cases the lyocell fabric used consisted solely of lyocell staple fibres available from Courtaulds
Fibres (Holdings) Limited under the trade mark TENCEL. The
TENCEL fibres were woven into a 3:1 twill fabric having an areal weight of 220 g/m2.
The surface of the fabric was subjected to flame treatment by passing the open width fabric through a Sherman Treaters flame treatment machine. The machine was set to a gas flow rate of about 650 ft3/h (18.4 m3/h) and the burner adjusted for stociometric combustion. The fabric was passed through the deep blue portion of the flame at a distance of between 1-5 cm, preferably 2.0 cm; from the burner jets. The fabric was passed through the flame at a linear speed of 25 m/min with two passes of the flame being made on each side of the fabric.
The speed and number of passes through the flame will be dependent upon the construction of the fabric and the number of burner heads on the machine. However, in order to obtain the present effect, a typical speed will be in the range of 10-150 metres/min, and more typically 25-100 meters/min.
Example 1
In preparation for the flame treatment, the fabric was padded through an alkali/detergent solution (1-2 g/l of sodium carbonate and 1-2 g/l detergent) and batched onto a perforated beam and given a wash with hot water and stenter dried. The fabric was singed as described above and then subjected to primary fibrillation by tumbling the fabric for 30 minutes at 1100C on a Then AFS air jet. The fabric was processed wet using a liquid ratio of 5:1, the aqueous liquid containing 2 g/l Perilan VF lubricant and 2 g/l Zetex
ACA lubricant detergent. The primary fibrillation was then removed using enzyme treatment. The enzyme treatment was effected in the Then AFS air jet for 30 minutes at 550C using a 5:1 aqueous liquid ratio. The liquid contained 2%
Primafast T100 cellulase.
The fabric was then jet dyed with a reactive dye (Procion HE-XL), using the migration method. The fabric was placed in an aqueous solution of dye at 950C for 45 minutes in a Then AFS jet, cooled, had alkali added to it and was then held for a further 45 minutes. The dyed fabric was then washed and dried on a stenter frame.
The fabric was then padded through a cationic/silicone softener combination. The mangled fabric was then beaten in rope form in a high speed tumbler e.g. a
Bianalani Airo 1000. The tumbling machine run using air at 1200C with the speed gradually increased from 150 to 1000 m/min, preferably 750-800 m/min, over 1 hour. The dried fabric may be further tumbled at 500 m/min for another hour.
The fabric tended to exhibit secondary fibrillation producing a peach-skin appearance. The effect is stable and retained through subsequent washes under conditions typically used in a domestic washing machine.
Example 2
The fabric was prepared as for Example 1 except that the fabric was can dried before singeing, and the primary fibrillation and enzyme treatment stages were omitted.
The tumbled fabric again had a peach-skin appearance and with no apparent primary fibrillation despite there being no pre-fibrillation and enzyme treatment of the fabric prior to dyeing.
Example 3
The fabric was prepared as for Example 2 except that the fabric was stenter dried before singeing.
The tumbled fabric again had a peach-skin appearance with no apparent primary fibrillation.
Example 4
The fabric was treated as in Example 3 except that the flame treatment was applied to the fabric surface before the fabric preparation with the alkali/detergent solution.
The fabric after tumbling again had a peach-skin appearance.
Example 5
This was a control sample in which the fabric was given a peach-skin appearance, by a process similar to that described for Example 1 except that there is no flame treatment of the surface, and in that the primary fibrillation was induced by tumbling the fabric for 90 minutes in liquid containing 2 g/l sodium carbonate 0.5 g/l
Perilan VF lubricant and 2 g/l Zetex ACA lubricant detergent.
The enzyme treatment was carried out as before but for 60 minutes.
Samples of the fabric treated in accordance with
Examples 1 to 5 were tested for physical properties in the weft and warp directions. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
Table 1
Physical Properties
Example Example Example Example Example 1 2 3 4 5 T e n s i 1 e Warp 1080 1301 1425 1330 877 Strength N Weft 563 797 905 867 347 Extension $ Warp 21.6 23.4 28.1 28.9 22.4 Weft 11.3 13.9 15.7 15.9 8.7 Hart indale 17000 18000 17000 18000 16000 Abrasion (rubs) Wing Tear N Warp 35.9 45.1 46.9 45.9 28.3 Weft 26.5 46.6 51.4 52.4 16.5 It can be seen that fabric prepared according to the present invention has superior physical properties to the control sample 5 which was subject to a typical prior art processing method.
Furthermore the methods used in Example 1 to 4 all show time savings over the known prior processes for producing peach-skin effects, especially processes 2 to 4 in which the primary fibrillation and enzyme treatment steps have been eliminated.
Claims (11)
1. A method of producing a lyocell fabric, having substantially only secondary fibrillation, comprising flame treating the surface of a lyocel fabric, processing the fabric in an aqueous medium to generate fibrillation and thereafter subjecting the fabric to softening and tumbling.
2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous medium is a dye solution.
3. A method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aqueous medium is an alkaline medium.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fabric is subject to fibrillation and enzyme treatment after the flame treatment and prior to said processing in the aqueous medium.
5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fabric is passed through a stociometrically burning gas flame or flames.
6. A method according to claim 5 wherein the flame is produced by burning methane, propane, butane, or any combinations thereof.
7. A method according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the gas flame(s) burns (burn) gas at a rate of about 650 ft3/h (18.4 m3/h) and the fabric passes within 1 to 5 cm of the jets.
8. A method according to claim 6, wherein the fabric is passed across the flame at a linear speed of between 10-150 m/min.
9. A method according to claim 2, or any one of claims 3 to 8 when dependent upon claim 2, in which the fabric is padded in an alkali/detergent solution before dyeing, and the flame treatment is applied to the fabric before said padding of the fabric.
10. A method of producing a lyocell fabric having substantially only secondary fibrillation, the method being substantially as described in any of Examples 1 to 5.
11. A lyocell fabric which has a peach-skin appearance formed thereon using a method as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB9704073A GB2322642A (en) | 1997-02-27 | 1997-02-27 | Lyocell fabric treatment |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB9704073A GB2322642A (en) | 1997-02-27 | 1997-02-27 | Lyocell fabric treatment |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| GB9704073D0 GB9704073D0 (en) | 1997-04-16 |
| GB2322642A true GB2322642A (en) | 1998-09-02 |
Family
ID=10808404
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB9704073A Withdrawn GB2322642A (en) | 1997-02-27 | 1997-02-27 | Lyocell fabric treatment |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| GB (1) | GB2322642A (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1039006A1 (en) * | 1999-03-22 | 2000-09-27 | Gerold Fleissner | Method and apparatus for making perforated nonwovens by means of hydrodynamic needling |
-
1997
- 1997-02-27 GB GB9704073A patent/GB2322642A/en not_active Withdrawn
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP1039006A1 (en) * | 1999-03-22 | 2000-09-27 | Gerold Fleissner | Method and apparatus for making perforated nonwovens by means of hydrodynamic needling |
| US6338187B1 (en) | 1999-03-22 | 2002-01-15 | Gerold Fleissner | Method and device for producing perforated nonwovens by hydrodynamic needing |
| US6405416B1 (en) | 1999-03-22 | 2002-06-18 | Gerold Fleissner | Method and device for producing perforated nonwovens by hydrodynamic needling |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| GB9704073D0 (en) | 1997-04-16 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| WAP | Application withdrawn, taken to be withdrawn or refused ** after publication under section 16(1) |