GB2140297A

GB2140297A - Hair treatment compositions

Info

Publication number: GB2140297A
Application number: GB08410237A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Hideo Kurokawa; Masaru Tajima; Isamu Nakaju
Original assignee: Lion Corp
Current assignee: Lion Corp
Priority date: 1983-04-22
Filing date: 1984-04-19
Publication date: 1984-11-28
Also published as: GB2140297B; JPS59196809A; GB8410237D0; JPS635006B2

Abstract

A hair treatment composition capable of imparting excellent hair manageability, wettability, luster and brushability to hair as well as having good stability of the dispersion on storage comprises a lower alkyl ester of a mono-N-acyl substituted basic amino acid in the form of a salt, a saturated monohydric alcohol of C14 to C22 linear structure, a fatty acid ester of sorbitan, a fatty acid ester of polyglycerin and a polyhydric alcohol or an alkylene oxide adduct thereof each in a limited proportion, the balance being water and other optional ingredients.

Description

SPECIFICATION Hair treatment compositions The present invention relates to a hair treatment composition to provide the hair with adequate wettability and manageability.

In connection with hair treatment for tidiness, both male and female people in recent years have suffered greatly from their hair being dry and loose without manageability and brushability or the luster of their hair is poor with little consequent beauty. This is partly due to the fact that the hair of people is under very adverse and unhealthy conditions as a result of the increasing customs of people for hair-brushing, permanent-waving, dyeing with a hair color and the like hair treatments which damage the natural physiology of hair. Such problems can of course be mitigated by the use of a hair treatment composition capable of making the hair settle easily with wettability and manageability or increasing the luster and brushability of the hair.

Even when the requirements for the above mentioned performance are fully satisfied, a hair treatment composition which results in tacky and heavy hair is absolutely unacceptable because hair is usually in direct contact with the skin at the scruff of the neck or handled with hands in hair grooming. Accordingly, all of the above described requirements should be satisfied by a hair treatment composition which is usually the form of an emulsion and should have a high stability in a long period of storage.

None of the conventional hair treatment compositions, however, satisfies all of the above described requirements at the same time, improvement in one respect being accompanied by sacrifice in other respects. Generally speaking, most of the conventional hair treatment compositions are defective due to the heavy touch and lasting tackiness of the hair treated therewith, presumably as a result of the relatively large content of oily ingredients therein. An attempt has been made to obtain a light and pleasant touch of treated hair by decreasing the amount of the oily ingredients in hair treatment compositions. This attempt was, however, unsuccessful because a great decrease is inavoidable in the luster and brushability of the hair treated with such hair treatment composition of low content of oily ingredients, though decreased tackiness is achieved to some extent.

The present invention, therefore, sets out to provide a novel and improved lotion-type hair treatment composition capable of imparting wettability and manageability to the hair but little tackiness and making the hair highly brushable and easy-settling when treated therewith along with good stability of the dispersion in a long term storage.

Thus, the hair treatment composition according to the present invention comprises, as the essentially components thereof: (a) from 0.1 to 5% by weight of a salt of a lower alkyl ester of a mono(N-long chain acyl) basic amino acid, of which the long chain acyl group has from 8 to 22 carbon atoms; (b) from 0.7 to 5% by weight of a saturated monohydric alcohol of a linear molecular structure having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms in a molecule; (c) from 0.1 to 2% by weight of a fatty acid ester of sorbitan; (d) from 0.1 to 2% by weight of a fatty acid ester of a polyglycerin; and (e) from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol or an alkylene oxide adduct thereof; the balance being water and optionally other additives, eg. as conventional in hair treatment compositions.

The invention includes a method of conditioning hair for cosmetic improvement comprising contacting the hair with the composition of the invention. Such a method may, of course, be applied commercially in the hair dressing industry.

The component (a) above mentioned is a lower alkyl ester of a basic amino acid substituted at the nitrogen atom with a long-chain acyl group and converted to the form of a salt with an acid.

The basic amino acid as the base structure of the component is exemplified by the naturally occurring amino acids, such as ornithine, lysine and arginine, as well as synthetic amino acids, such as a,y-diamino butyric acid. The stereoisomerism of these amino acids is not particularly limitative so that they can be a particular optically active isomer of d- or 1-type or may be a racemic modification.

The acyl group, with which the amino acid is substituted at the nitrogen atom should have a long chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The acryl group is preferably aliphatic and may be saturated or unsaturated. The acyl group can be derived from suitable natural products but may be introduced into the amino acid in a purely synthetic procedure. Preferable examples of the acyl group include the residues from single fatty acids such as lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl groups and the residues of naturally occurring mixed fatty acids such as the residue of beef tallow fatty acids.

The N-acyl substituted amino acid should then be esterified with a lower alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms including methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl and octyl groups.

The component (a) should be in the form of a salt of the basic amino acid ester with a suitable acid which may be an inorganic acid, e.g. hydrochloric or sulphuric acids, or an organic acid, e.g. acetic, tartaric, citric, p-toluenesulfonic or fatty acids, as well as acidic amino acids and pyroglutaminate, i.e. pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid. Hydrochloric acid and 1- or d,1-pyrrolidonecar- boxylic acid are preferred.

The amount of the component (a) in the inventive hair treatment composition should be in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight.

The component (b) is a unsaturated monohydric alcohol of a linear-chain structure having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms in a molecule such as, for example, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, eicosyl, and docosyl alcohols. This component is adsorbed on the hair as coupled with the above described component (a) to exhibit a particular effect of increasing the water-retentivity of the hair contributing to the easy settling thereof. When the linear chain of the alcohol is shorter or longer to have less than 14 or more than 22 carbon atoms in number, the above mentioned effect of hair settling is insufficient with decreased water-retentivity of the hair treated with the hair treatment composition.The aliphatic chain of the alcohol should be saturated since an unsaturated alcohol cannot be coupled efficiently with the component (a) not to give the above mentioned effect to the hair as a consequence.

The.amount of the component (b) in the inventive hair treatment composition should be in the range from 0.7 to 5% by weight.

It should be noted that, in order to obtain full adsorption of the above described components (a) and (b) on the hair, the hair treatment composition must comprise the components (c), (d) and (e) in limited proportions in addition to the components (a) and (b).

The component (c) is an ester of sorbitan with a fatty acid which may be either a saturated fatty acid or an unsaturated fatty acid having a straight-chain or branched-chain molecular structure. Preferably examples of the fatty acid include caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, ricinoleic, isostearic, undecylenic, hydroxystearic, abietic, isooctoic, isohsexadecanoic and 2-ethylhexadecanoic acids as well as mixed fatty acids derived from natural products such as lanolin.

The amount of the component (c) in the inventive hair treatment composition should be in the range from 0.1 to 2% by weight.

The component (d) is a fatty acid ester of a polyglycerin and the polyglycerin moiety thereof can be, for example, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-, nona- and decaglycerins while the acid to form an ester with these polyglycerins may be selected from the same group of acids as described for the fatty acid ester of sorbitan as the component (c).

The amount of the component (d) in the inventive hair treatment composition should be in the range from 0.1 to 2% by weight.

The component (e) in the inventive hair treatment composition is a polyhydric alcohol or an alkylene oxide adduct thereof excepting fatty acid esters of sorbitan and polyglycerins. Examples of preferable polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, polyglycerins, e.g. di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-, octa-, nona- and decaglycerins, ethyleneglycol, polyethyleneglycol, preferably, having an average molecular weight of 200 to 600, propyleneglycol, polypropyleneglycol, preferably, having an average molecular weight of 200 to 600, 1 ,3-butyleneglycol, and sorbitol.

The alkylene oxide to form an adduct with the above mentioned polyhydric alcohols should preferably be ethylene oxide or propylene oxide. The suitable alkylene oxide adducts of the polyhydric alcohols include polyoxypropylene adducts of sorbitol, preferably, having an average molecular weight of 200 to 700, polyoxyethylene adducts of sorbitol, preferably, having an average molecular weight of 200 to 2800 and polyoxyethylenepolyoxypropylene adducts of sorbitol, preferably, having an average molecular weight of 300 to 2600.

The amount of the component (e) in the inventive hair treatment composition should be in the range from 0.5 to 10% by weight.

The inventive hair treatment composition is prepared by dissolving or dispersing the above described components (a) to (e) in water each in a proportion given above. It is of course optional that other ingredients conventionally formulated in hair treatment compositions may be added in addition in amounts within a limitation not to cause particularly adverse effects thereby. Such optional ingredients include various kinds of natural and synthetic oily matters, amino acids, herb extracts, polymeric substances, bactericides, perfumes and coloring matters usually used in small amounts.

The actually applicable forms of the inventive hair treatment composition include a hair lotion, hair conditioner and hair rinse.

Following are the examples and comparative exemples to illustrate the effectiveness of the inventive hair treatment composition in more detail preceded by the description of the testing methods for the evaluation of the inventive hair treatment composition in each example.

1. Performance test Ten grams of human hair were coated or sprayed with 10 g of the composition under test and organoleptic evaluations were made for the wettability, manageability and brushability of the thus treated hair in 5 grades making reference to a hair specimen treated with the same amount of a typical general-purpose hair rinse containing 1% by weight of stearyl trimethylammoniumchloride, 3% by weight of cetyl alcohol and 10% by weight of propyleneglycol, the balance being water. The results of evaluation are expressed by the grades A, B, C, D and E according to the following criteria.

A: clearly superior to the reference B: somewhat superior to the reference C: about equivalent to the reference D: somewhat inferior to the reference E: clearly inferior to the reference 2. Stability test About 100 g of the composition under test were kept in a glass vessel of 100 ml capacity in a sealed condition at a temperature of - 5"C and 40"C for 6 months and the stability of dispersion was visually examined. The results are expressed by "good", "fair" and "poor" for no noticeable changes, partial separation into oily and aqueous phases and almost full separation into oily and aqueous phases, respectively.

Example 1.

A hair treatment composition was prepared by dissolving or dispersing in purified water 1.0% by weight of lauroyllysine methyl ester hydrochloride as the component (a), 3.0% by weight of cetyl alcohol as the component (b), 1.0% by weight of sorbitan monostearate as the component (c), 1.0% by weight of diglycerin monostearate as the omponent (d) and 10.0% by weight of propylene glycol as the component (e), the balance being purified water, and the performance and stability were compared with comparative compositions No. 1 to No. 6, of which the Comparative Composition No. 1 was the above mentioned reference composition and the Comparative Compositions No. 2 to No. 6 were prepared each with the same formulation as above excepting the omission of the component (e) in No. 2, component (d) in No. 3, component (c) in No. 4, component (b) in No. 5 or component (a) in No. 6.

As is clear from the results of the evaluation shown in Table 1, all of the components (a) to (e) are essential in the inventive hair treatment composition and omission of either one of them results in a very poor quality of the composition.

Table 1 Stability of Wettabi- Manage- Brush- dispersion lity ability ability at 40 C -5'C Compara- 1 C C C Fair Poor tive 2 C B C Poor Poor compo- 3 C C C Poor Poor sition 4 C C C Poor Poor No. in 5 C D D Fair Fair Example 6 C D D Fair Poor 1 and 7 C D C Fair Fair Examples 8 C D C Fair Fair 6-9 9 C C C Fair Fair 1 A A A Good Good 2 A A A Good Good 3 A A A Good Good 4 A A A Good Good Example 5 A A A Good Good No. 6 A A A Good Good 7 A A A Good Good 8 A A A Good Good 9 A A A Good Good Examples 2 to 5.

The formulation of the hair treatment compositions prepared in these Examples was each the same as in Example 1 except that thelauroyllysine methyl ester hydrochloride was replaced with the same amount of the pyroglutaminate of methyl ester of octanoylarginine in Example 2, lauroylarginine in Example 3, stearoylarginine in Example 4 or behenoylarginine in Example 5.

As is clear from the results of the evaluation shown in Table 1, the lower alkyl ester of a mono-N-acylamino acid in the form of a salt is effective when the acyl group has from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Examples 6 to 9.

Hair treatment compositions were prepared each by dispersing or dissolving in water 1.0% by weight of the pyroglutaminate of a methyl ester of steraroylarginine as the component (a), 1.0% by weight of myristyl alcohol, 1.0% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 0.7% by weight of stearyl alcohol or 5.0% by weight of stearyl alcohol in Examples 6, 7, 8 and 9, respectively, as the component (b), 1.0% by weight of sorbitan monooleate as the component (c), 1.0% by weight of triglycerin monooleate as the component (d) and (e), the balance being purified water.

For comparison, three comparative compositions No. 7 to No. 9 were prepared each with modification of the above formulation by replacing the straight-chain saturated alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms per molecule with 1.0% by weight of a straight-chain saturated alcohol having 1 2 or 24 carbon atoms per molecule in No. 7 and No. 8, respectively, or oleyl alcohol in No. 9.

As is clear from the results of the evaluation shown in Table 1, the hair treatment compositions are quite satisfactory when the linear-chain saturated alcohol used as the component (b) has from 14 to 22 carbon atoms in a molecule. On the contrary, no satisfactory results can be obtained when the component (b) is replaced with a linear-chain saturated alcohol having carbon atoms of 1 3 or smaller or 23 or larger in number per molecule or with an unsaturated alcohol.

Example 10.

A hair treatment composition was prepared by dissolving or dispersing in purified water 2.0% by weight of the hydrochloride of a methyl ester of paimitoyllysine, 4.0% by weight of a 6:4 mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, 10.0% by weight of liquid paraffin, 1.0% by weight of stearic acid, 0.5% by weight of isopropyl myristate, 1.0% by weight of sorbitan palmitate, 1.0% by weight of tetraglycerin monostearate, 10.0% by weight of glycerin and 0.1% by weight of methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, the balance being water.

This hair treatment cmposition was found quite satisfactory in respects of the wettability, manageability and brushability of the hair treated therewith as well as the stability of dispersion when stored prolongedly.

Example 11.

A hair lotion composition was prepared by dissolving or dispersing in purified water 0.5% by weight of acetate of a methyl ester of lauroylornithine, 2.0% by weight of squalane, 1.5% by weight of a 8:2 mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, 0.5% by weight of a 20 moles ethyleneoxide adduct of polyglycerin monostearate, 0.5% by weight of sorbitan monostearate, 2.0% by weight of polyethyleneglycol, 5.0% by weight of 1 ,3-butyleneglycol and 0. 1% by weight of methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate, the balance being water.

This hair lotion was found quite satisfactory like the hair treatment composition prepared in the preceding examples in respects of the wettability, manageability and brushability of the hair treated therewith as well as the stability of the dispersion when stored prolongedly.

Claims

1. A hair treatment composition which comprises: (a) from 0.1 to 5% by weight of a salt of a lower alkyl ester of a mono-N-acyl substitute basic amino acid with an acid, in which the acyl group has from 8 to 22 carbon atoms; (b) from 0.7 to 5% by weight of a saturated monhydric alcohol of a linear molecular structure having from 14 to 22 carbon atoms in a molecule; (c) from 0.1 to 2% by weight of a fatty acid ester of sorbitan; (d) from 0.1 to 2% by weight of a fatty acid ester of a polyglycerin; and (e) from 0.5 to 10% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol or an alkylene oxide adduct thereof; the balance being water and other optional additives.

2. A hair treatment composition according to claim 1 wherein the amino acid is ornithine, lysine or arginine.

3. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the acid forming the salt of the lower alkyl ester of a mono-N-acyl substituted basic amino acid is hydrochloric acid or pyrrolidone-carboxylic acid.

4. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the lower alkyl group forming the lower alkyl ester of the mono-N-acyl substituted basic amino acid has 1 to 8 carbon atoms.

5. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the fatty acid forming the fatty acid ester of sorbitan is caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, ricinoleic, isostearic, undecylenic, hydroxystearic, abietic, isooctoic, isohexadecanoic, or 2-ethylhexadecanoic acid or lanolin.

6. A hair treatment composition according to any one of preceding claims wherein the fatty acid forming the fatty acid ester of a polyglycerin is any one of the acids claimed in claim 5.

7. A hair treatment composition according to any one of preceding claims wherein the polyglycerin forming the fatty acid ester of a polyglycerin is di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa-, nonaor decaglycerin.

8. A hair treatment composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyhydric alcohol as the component (e) is glycerin, a polyglycerin, ethyleneglycol, a polyethyleneglycol, a polypropyleneglycol, 1,3-butyleneglycol or sorbitol.

9. A hair treatment composition substantially as hereinbefore described in any one of Examples 1 to 11.

10. A method of conditioning hair for cosmetic improvement comprising contacting the hair with a composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims.