GB2079140A

GB2079140A - Gem stone setting

Info

Publication number: GB2079140A
Application number: GB8021682A
Authority: GB
Original assignee: NATHAN BROTHERS Ltd
Current assignee: NATHAN BROTHERS Ltd
Priority date: 1980-07-02
Filing date: 1980-07-02
Publication date: 1982-01-20
Also published as: GB2079140B

Abstract

An illusion mount is described in which facets are pressed into the face of the mount and the press operation serves also to fix the stone in the mount by flow of metal in the facet forming operation. <IMAGE>

Description

SPECIFICATION Gem stone setting This invention relates to gem stone settings, whether real or imitation stones, in jewellery.

A first known method for setting faceted stones, for example diamonds, is to form the body of the ring or other article with a series of claws formed out of (usually precious metal) of the body of the ring or like, and the stone is then placed between these claws which are subsequently deformed to clasp the stone.

With small stones, so called "illusion settings" are used where facets or the like are cut into a disc of metal so as to be visible through or around the stone when it is assembled to that faceted metal, and this gives the appearance of a stone larger or more brilliant than is actuality the case. The method for setting the stone is this case is to cut the facets in the disc by a series of generally radial and inwardly directed cutting strokes, leaving what might be called shavings of the metal attached to the disc, and frictionally engaging the periphery of the stone with those shavings. This setting can be made complete, and then for example soldered to the ring.

The problem with both methods is that due to variation in sizes of stones, each mount has to be adjusted to fit the stone securely, and this calls for particularly skilled manual work.

The object of the invention is to provide an improved setting and method which produces the amount of skilled manual work required and hence is useful for the production of cheaper articles in larger quantities.

In accordance with the invention, a setting for a gem stone comprising an illusion mount is made by locating the stone in a metal annular mount and press forming facets in the face of the annul us thus also causing flow of the metal so as to frictionally grip the stone.

The invention is more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings wherein: Figure 1 shows the preformed blank for the illusion mount; Figure 2 is a diametrical sectional elevation of the mount af Figure 1 assembled with a precious stone and located in a holder whilst the setting is Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 but showing the parts after the setting has been made; and Figure 4 is a perspective view showing the assembly of stone and mount.

Referring to the drawings, it is to be emphasised that the illusion setting method is carried out with particularly small precious stones, indeed the mount shown in the drawings is typically of the order of 3 millimetres diameter.

The precise configuration particularly of the facets which are pressed into the annulus is therefore unlikely to be clearly visible to the unaided human eye, and providing it gives the required illusion effect, the precise configuration is quite unimportant.

However, in so far as the invention is concerned, it will be seen that the annulus 10 shown in Figure 1 has a central bore which is approximately equal in diameter to the precious stone 12, and the annulus is received in a recess in a suitable bolster 14 which has a pocket 1 6 to receive and support the stone. It will be noted that the plane 1 8 containing the largest diameter of the stone is received within the thickness of the annulus.

A suitable punch (not shown) is used to impress the pattern of facets 20 on the upper surface of the annulus, and this causes the flow of material as at 22 so as to embrace the stone and secure it in the annulus.

1. A setting for a gem stone comprising an illusion mount made by locating the stone in a metal annular mount and press forming facets in the face of the annulus thus also causing flow of the metal so as to frictionally grip the stone.

2. A setting as claimed in Claim 1 wherein the stone is supported relative to the mount during the press forming so as to locate a largest portion of the stone between upper and lower faces of the annulus, whilst an end face of the stone is located above the surface of the annulus which is to be formed with facets.

3. A setting made substantially as described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

**WARNING** end of DESC field may overlap start of CLMS **.

Claims

**WARNING** start of CLMS field may overlap end of DESC **. SPECIFICATION Gem stone setting This invention relates to gem stone settings, whether real or imitation stones, in jewellery. A first known method for setting faceted stones, for example diamonds, is to form the body of the ring or other article with a series of claws formed out of (usually precious metal) of the body of the ring or like, and the stone is then placed between these claws which are subsequently deformed to clasp the stone. With small stones, so called "illusion settings" are used where facets or the like are cut into a disc of metal so as to be visible through or around the stone when it is assembled to that faceted metal, and this gives the appearance of a stone larger or more brilliant than is actuality the case. The method for setting the stone is this case is to cut the facets in the disc by a series of generally radial and inwardly directed cutting strokes, leaving what might be called shavings of the metal attached to the disc, and frictionally engaging the periphery of the stone with those shavings. This setting can be made complete, and then for example soldered to the ring. The problem with both methods is that due to variation in sizes of stones, each mount has to be adjusted to fit the stone securely, and this calls for particularly skilled manual work. The object of the invention is to provide an improved setting and method which produces the amount of skilled manual work required and hence is useful for the production of cheaper articles in larger quantities. In accordance with the invention, a setting for a gem stone comprising an illusion mount is made by locating the stone in a metal annular mount and press forming facets in the face of the annul us thus also causing flow of the metal so as to frictionally grip the stone. The invention is more particularly described with reference to the accompanying drawings wherein: Figure 1 shows the preformed blank for the illusion mount; Figure 2 is a diametrical sectional elevation of the mount af Figure 1 assembled with a precious stone and located in a holder whilst the setting is Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2 but showing the parts after the setting has been made; and Figure 4 is a perspective view showing the assembly of stone and mount. Referring to the drawings, it is to be emphasised that the illusion setting method is carried out with particularly small precious stones, indeed the mount shown in the drawings is typically of the order of 3 millimetres diameter. The precise configuration particularly of the facets which are pressed into the annulus is therefore unlikely to be clearly visible to the unaided human eye, and providing it gives the required illusion effect, the precise configuration is quite unimportant. However, in so far as the invention is concerned, it will be seen that the annulus 10 shown in Figure 1 has a central bore which is approximately equal in diameter to the precious stone 12, and the annulus is received in a recess in a suitable bolster 14 which has a pocket 1 6 to receive and support the stone. It will be noted that the plane 1 8 containing the largest diameter of the stone is received within the thickness of the annulus. A suitable punch (not shown) is used to impress the pattern of facets 20 on the upper surface of the annulus, and this causes the flow of material as at 22 so as to embrace the stone and secure it in the annulus. CLAIMS