GB2044597A - Heel seat forming - Google Patents
Heel seat forming Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- GB2044597A GB2044597A GB7903063A GB7903063A GB2044597A GB 2044597 A GB2044597 A GB 2044597A GB 7903063 A GB7903063 A GB 7903063A GB 7903063 A GB7903063 A GB 7903063A GB 2044597 A GB2044597 A GB 2044597A
- Authority
- GB
- United Kingdom
- Prior art keywords
- seat
- insole
- last
- lasting margin
- edge
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
- A43D11/00—Machines for preliminary treatment or assembling of upper-parts, counters, or insoles on their lasts preparatory to the pulling-over or lasting operations; Applying or removing protective coverings
- A43D11/12—Machines for forming the toe part or heel part of shoes, with or without use of heat
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
- A43D21/00—Lasting machines
- A43D21/12—Lasting machines with lasting clamps, shoe-shaped clamps, pincers, wipers, stretching straps or the like for forming the toe or heel parts of the last
Landscapes
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
Abstract
The heel of an upper is moulded and lasted directly on the making last. An insole (2) is removably secured to the base of a making last (6) to extend outwardly of the last around the periphery thereof. The seat of an upper is drafted onto the last and is then moulded to shape by applying a mould clamp (16) thereto. For a turnover edge construction, the clamp (16) is recessed (at 20) such that the insole (2) and the recess (20) cooperate to form a substantially L-shaped lasting margin (24) which is then wiped over the base surface of the insole. <IMAGE>
Description
SPECIFICATION
Improvement in or relating to the manufacture of articles of footwear
The present invention relates to a method of seat forming for use in the manufacture of articles of footwear, and to methods of making articles of footwear.
Known methods of making articles of footwear, particularly for making boots or shoes in which the upper is stitched to the insole, involve a large number of operations which have to be performed individually. This, of course, affects the production time and cost of making each article.
It is an object of the present invention to reduce the number of individual operations in methods of making articles offootwear, and in particular to provide a method of forming a seat.
According to a first aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of seat forming for use in making articles of footwear, the method comprising drafting the seat of an upper onto the seat portion of a making last, and moulding the seat of the upper to a predetermined shape on the last.
It will be seen that with the method of the invention the seat of the upper is moulded and lasted directly on the making last. This is in contrast to known methods of making footwear in which the seat of the upper is shaped in a separate mould and is subsequently removed from the mould and applied to a last. Thus, the present invention reduces the number of individual operations required to mould and last the seat. Furthermore, as the seat is moulded directly onto the last the accuracy of the moulding operation is ensured.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of seat forming for use in making articles of footwear, the method comprising removably securing an insole to the base surface of a last, the insole extending outwardly of the feather edge of the last at least at the seat portion of the last, drafting the seat of an upper onto the seat portion of the last, and applying clamping means to the seat of the upper on the last to mould the seat to a predetermined shape, said clamping means and the extended edge of the insole cooperating to flange the lasting margin of the seat to define a feather line in the seat.
With this method the seat is again lasted and moulded on the last so that the number of individual operations is reduced. Furthermore, the extended edge of the insole cooperates with the clamping means to define a feather line in the seat.
Generally, the seat of the upper is provided with a heat-activated stiffener which serves to retain the seat in its moulded shape. For example, the seat of the upper may be provided with a thermoplastics counter and a lining. The seat of the upper is then heated before being applied to the last. The heated seat is moulded by the application of the clamping means and is allowed to cool and set before the clamping means is removed. The heating of the seat also serves to bond the seat lining to the seat of the upper by way of the thermoplastics counter.
The lasting margin oftheseatand/orthe extended edge of the insole may be pre-cemented such that the flanged lasting margin is simultaneously secured to the extended edge of the insole during the moulding operation.
In one embodiment of the invention the clamping means has an end surface arranged to form an outward extension of the base surface of the seat portion of the last. The extended edge of the insole and said end surface cooperate to flange the lasting margin of the seat outwardly such that said lasting margin extends substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole. After the seat of the upper has been sewn to the insole around the feather line both the upper and the insole can be trimmed, as is usual in Veldt constructions, to leave cut edges, or the insole alone can be trimmed and the lasting margin of the upper turned over and secured to the base surface of the insole.
In a further embodiment the clamping means is provided with a recess which may be arranged adjacent the feather edge of the seat portion of the last.
The recess is shaped such that the lasting margin of the seat is flanged by the recess and the extended edge to extend outwardly substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole and such that the free edge of the flanged lasting margin is turned to extend approximately perpendicular to the extended edge away from the upper at the extended edge.
That is, the lasting margin ofthe seat is formed to be substantially L-shaped. With this arrangement the free edge of the lasting margin is wiped over the base surface of the insole by wiper plates.
The present invention also extends to a method of making articles of footwear in which the seat is molded and lasted as defined above such that the lasting margin of the seat extends substantially para- llel to the extended edge of the insole, the insole extending outwardly of the feather edge of the last around the whole periphery of the last, subsequently, the forepart and waist of the upper is lasted such that the lasting margin thereof extends substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole and the article is then sewn around the feather line.
The welt so formed is then finished and a sole is secured to the base surface of the insole.
In one embodiment of the method of making articles of footwear defined above the welt is finished by trimming the lasting margin of the upper and the extended edge of the insole close to the stitching. In an alternative embodiment welt is finished by trim
ming the extended edge of the insole, turning the
lasting margin of the upper over and securing the
lasting margin to the base surface of the insole.
The present invention also extends to a method
making articles of footwear in which the seat is
moulded and lasted as defined above such that the
lasting margin of the seat is substantially L-shaped,
the insole extending outwardly of the feather edge of the last around the whole periphery of the last, the free edge of the lasting margin of the seat is wiped
over the base surface of the insole and secured -thereto, subsequently, the forepart and waist of the
upper is lasted with the lasting margin thereof turned over the extended edge of the insole and sec
ured to the base surface thereof, the article is then sewn around the feather line such that the stitching extends through the upper, through the extended edge of the insole and through the turned over edge of the lasting margin of the upper, and a sole is then secured to the base surface of the insole.
The present invention will hereinafter be further described, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
Figure 1 shows a side elevation of a last having an insole removably attached to the base surface thereof,
Figure 2 shows a perspective view of an outer mould clamp,
Figure 3 shows a partial view of a last carrying an upper in position in the outer mould clamp during a seat moulding operation,
Figure 4 shows the last carrying the upper in position in the outer mould clamp after wiping has been completed,
Figure 5 shows a perspective view of the last carrying the insole and the upper after completion of seat lasting and moulding,
Figure 6 shows a section of the upper and insole on the last immediately prior to stitching, and
Figure 7 shows a perspective view of the stitched upper and insole.
The drawings illustrate a method of making shoes having a stitched down turnover edge incorporating a method of seat forming of the present invention.
As shown in Figure 1, a pre-shaped and moulded insole 2 is removably secured by staples 4 to the base surface of a making last 6. Of course, the insole may be removably secured to the last 6 by any suitable means. The insole 2 is arranged to extend outwardly of the last around the entire periphery of the base surface of the last thereby forming an extended edge 8 around the entire periphery of the last. The insole 2 is positioned substantially symetrically of the base surface of the last so that the extent of the extended edge 8 at all points around the periphery is substantially equal.
In the embodiment illustrated, the insole 2 has a layered construction comprising a fibre board base layer 10 supporting a layer of foam 12 and an upper lining 14. The area of the layer of foam 12 is substantially equal to the area of the base surface of the last such that the extended edge 8 is defined by the base layer 10 covered by the lining 14. In addition, in the illustrated embodiment a metal shank 15 is affixed to the arch of the base layer 10 Obviously, any other required construction for the insole 2 may be utilized.
An upper of leather, plastics material or any other suitable material is constructed in any suitable manner. Generally, a stiffener and a lining are incorporated at the seat of the upper. Usually, the stiffener is a thermo-plastics counter. The seat of the upper is first heated in known manner. Then, the seat of the
upper is lasted and moulded onto the last 6 having the insole 2 attached thereto.
Figure 2 shows a perspective view of an outer
mould clamp 16 which may be used in the seat last
ing and moulding operation. This outer mould clamp
16 may be incorporated into a known backpart moulding machine with suitable modifications. It will be seen that the clamp 16 has a moulding surface 18 shaped to conform to the required outer shape of the seat from the top of the seat to the featherthereof. In addition, the surface 18 is recessed at 20 to receive the extended edge 8 of the insole 2.
After the seat of the upper has been heated it is drafted onto the seat portion of the last. This may be done by hand, but it is preferred that it be done by machine in known manner so that the upper is drafted to a pre-settension and distance over the seat portion of the last. The drafted seat is then moulded to shape by engaging the outer mould clamp 16 thereover. The clamp 16 may be slid down over the seat, or, if required, may be centrally hinged and the two halves thereof pivoted into position.
Figure 3 shows a partial view of the seat of the upper 22 in position on the seat portion of the last 6 with the outer mould clamp 16 applied over the seat
The clamp 16 is positioned such that the extended edge 8 of the insole 2 extends into the recess 20.
Thus, the lasting margin 24 of the seat is flanged outwardly. In addition, the surface 18 and the recess 20 of the clamp 16 are arranged to define a sharp edge 26 which engages the seat to produce a welldefined feather line at 28.
It will be seen from Figure 3 that the flanged lasting margin 24 of the seat extends in contact with the upper surface of the insole 2 along the expected edge 8 to the periphery of the insole 2. The lasting margin 24 is then confined by the recess 20 to extend away from the insole 2 in a direction approximately perpendicular thereto. Thus, the lasting margin 24 is substantially L-shaped. One or more wiper plates 30 can then be utilized to wipe the free edge of the lasting margin 24 over the base surface of the insole 2 to produce the turnover edge configuration shown in
Figure 4. Prior to the operation of the wiper plates 30 adhesive may be applied to the base surface of the insole 2 and/or to the lasting margin 24 so that the lasting margin 24 is secured to the insole 2. Alternatively, a heat activated adhesive may be provided on the lasting margin 24 and/or on the insole 2 prior to the seat lasting and moulding operation.
The wiper plates 30 are arranged to move substantially parallel to the base surface of the seat of the last 6. In a preferred embodiment two wiper plates 30 are provided and are each arranged to sweep through an arc.
It will be appreciated that the seat lasting, seat moulding and wiping operations described above can all be performed sequentially by a suitably modified backpart moulding machine of known type under the control of a single operator.
The last 6 carrying the upper and the insole is removed from the clamp 16 after the completion of the seat lasting and moulding operation. A perspective view of the upper and insole at this stage is shown in Figure 5. It can be seen from Figure 5 that the seat of the upper 22 has been very accurately
lasted and moulded to the seat portion of the last 6
and that a very well-defined feather line 28 has been
produced around the seat to make subsequent stitching of the upper to the insole relatively easy.
Furthermore, a neat and accurate turnover edge has
been produced around the seat.
The upper 22 is then forepart lasted and the lasting
margin is turned over, wiped, and adhered to the base surface of the insole 2. If required, a toe band may be used to define the feather line at the forepart of the upper. This forepart lasting is preferably carried out on a suitable forepart lasting machine.
Thereafter, the waist is lasted and the lasting margin at the waist is turned over, wiped and adhered to the base surface of the insole 2.
Figure 6 shows a section through the complete lasted shoe on the last 6. It will be seen that the lasting margin of the upper is turned overthe extended edge of the insole around the entire periphery of the insole, and thus that at all points the extended edge is sandwiched by the lasting margin of the upper. The lasted shoe is then stitched around the feather edge, preferably on a stitching machine.
As the feather line, particularly of the seat, is welldefined, this stitching is relatively easy. It will be appreciated that with the construction described above the stitching will extend through two parts of the upper and through the insole disposed intermediate thereof to produce a strong welt. Figure 7 shows a perspective view of the stitched shoe illustrating the stitching 32.
To finish the shoe, the staples 4 are removed from the insole and the last and the base surface of the lasted margin is then roughened and comented. A sole of a prefinished shape may then be secured to the shoe. Alternatively, a castor sole can be secured to the shoe and then trimmed.
The invention has been described above with reference to a method of making shoes having a turned over, stitched down edge. However, it will be appreciated that the method may be used for making other articles of footwear, such as boots. Furthermore, articles of footwear may be produced having a turned over, stitched down edge at the seat and a different welt at the forepart and waist.
In addition, the method of the invention may be used for seat lasting and moulding where it is required that the lasting margin of the seat extend substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole. In this embodiment the clamp 16 is modified so that one end surface of the clamp 16 extends in the plane indicated by line 34 in Figure 4. That is, the end surface 34 of the clamp 16 forms an outward extension of the base surface of the seat portion of the last 6. The wiper plates 30 are then arranged to wipe over the base surface of the insole 2 both to adhere the extended edge thereof to the lasting margin and to ensure that the lasting margin is flanged outwardly and extends substantially parallel to the plane of the insole 2. After the upper has been sewn to the insole 2 around the feather edge, both the lasting margin and the insole may be trimmed close to the stitching, as is usual in Veldt constructions. Alternatively, the extended edge of the insole
may be trimmed and the lasting margin turned over and adhered to the base surface of the insole.
Claims (15)
1. A method of seat forming for use in making articles of footwear, the method comprising drafting the seat of an upper onto the seat portion of a making last, and moulding the seat of the upper to a predetermined shape on the last.
2. A method of seat forming for use in making articles of footwear, the method comprising the steps removably securing an insole to the base surface of a last, the insole extending outwardly of the feather edge of the last at least at the seat portion of the last, drafting the seat of an upper onto the seat portion of the last, and applying clamping means to the seat of the upper on the last to mould the seat to a predetermined shape, said clamping means and the extended edge of the insole cooperating to flange the lasting margin of the seat to define a feather line in the seat.
3. A method as claimed in claim 2, wherein the seat of the upper is provided with a heat-activated stiffener, and wherein the seat of the upper is heated before being drafted onto the last and the clamping means is applied to the heated seat on the last, and further comprising the steps of allowing the heated seat to cool with the clamping means applied thereto and then removing the clamping means from the seat.
4. A method as claimed in claim 3, wherein said heat-activated stiffener comprises a thermoplastics counter.
5. A method as claimed in any of claims 2 to 4, wherein the lasting margin of the seat and/or the extended edge of the insole are pre-cemented such that the flanged lasting margin is secured to the extended edge of the insole during the moulding operation.
6. A method as claimed in any of claims 2 to 5, wherein the clamping means has an end surface arranged to form an outward extension of the base surface of the seat portion of the last, the extended edge of the insole and said end surface cooperating to flange the lasting margin of the seat outwardly such that said lasting margin extends substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole.
7. A method as claimed in any of claims 2 to 5, wherein the clamping means is provided with a recess arranged adjacent the feather edge of the seat portion of the last, the recess being shaped such that the lasting margin of the seat is flanged by the recess and the extended edge to extend outwardly substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole and such that the free edge of the flanged lasting margin is turned to extend approximately perpendicular to the extended edge away from the upper at the extended edge.
8. A method of making articles of footwear comprising the steps of forming the seat as claimed in claim 6 such that the lasting margin of the seat extends substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole, the insole extending outwardly of the feather edge of the last around the whole periphery of the last, lasting the forepart and waist of the upper such that the lasting margin thereof extends substantially parallel to the extended edge of the insole, sewing the article around the feather line, finishing the welt so formed, detaching the insole from the last, securing a sole to the base surface of the insole, and removing the article from the last.
9. A method of making articles of footwear as claimed in claim 8, wherein the welt is finished by trimming the lasting margin of the upper and the extended edge of the insole close to the stitching.
10. A method of making articles of footwear as claimed in claim 8, wherein the welt is finished by trimming the extended edge of the insole, turning the lasting margin of the upper over and securing the lasting margin to the base surface of the insole.
11. A method of making articles of footwear comprising the steps of forming the seat as claimed in claim 7 such that the lasting margin of the seat is substantially L-shaped, the insole extending outwardly of the feather edge of the last around the whole periphery of the last, wiping the free edge of the lasting margin of the seat over the base surface of the insole and securing the free edge of the lasting margin to said base surface, lasting the forepart and waist of the upper with the lasting margin thereof turned over the extended edge of the insole and secured to the base surface thereof, sewing the article around the feather line such that the stitching extends through the upper, through the extended edge of the insole and through the turned over edge of the lasting margin of the upper, detaching the insole from the last, securing a sole to the base surface of the insole, and removing the article from the last.
12. An article of footwear when made by the method claimed in claim 8.
13. An article of footwear when made by the method claimed in claim 11.
14. A method of seat forming for use in making articles of footwear substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to Figures 1 to 5 of the accompanying drawings.
15. A method of making articles of footwear substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB7903063A GB2044597A (en) | 1979-01-29 | 1979-01-29 | Heel seat forming |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB7903063A GB2044597A (en) | 1979-01-29 | 1979-01-29 | Heel seat forming |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| GB2044597A true GB2044597A (en) | 1980-10-22 |
Family
ID=10502798
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB7903063A Withdrawn GB2044597A (en) | 1979-01-29 | 1979-01-29 | Heel seat forming |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| GB (1) | GB2044597A (en) |
-
1979
- 1979-01-29 GB GB7903063A patent/GB2044597A/en not_active Withdrawn
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| WAP | Application withdrawn, taken to be withdrawn or refused ** after publication under section 16(1) |